When it came to choosing the right dog, I settled on a golden retriever for their joyful nature, love of the outdoors and top tier cuddles. What I didn't take into account was the hair.

So. Much. Hair.

Because while high shedding breeds are said to shed twice a year, the reality is there is low level shedding going on all the time. Such is the truth in this, I've regularly heard it quipped that golden retrievers shed twice a year, once in spring for six months and once in autumn for six months!

Yes, they are one of the breeds that shed the most and, as such, my house has been covered in – sorry, I mean blessed by – goldie hair for going on a decade now! But all my suffering has not been for nothing, I have amassed a collection of hacks that will hopefully help you cope with shedding and keep your house a fraction less hairy…

When and why do dogs shed?

Golden retrievers shed their thick, water-resistant double coat twice a year. As the weather warms up in spring, they shed their thick winter undercoat and transition to their lighter summer coat. Then in autumn, they do away with their summer coat to make way for a new, thicker winter coat. Really, it’s no different to you and me swapping out our puffer coats for a rain jacket, or boots for sandals. Just, er, messier.

During this season of shedding you can expect a significant amount of hair to come out and the process can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Sorry. Somebody had to break it to you. The good news is, you can prepare for it accordingly.

The spring shed can start as early as March, but could be April or May, with the autumn shed starting around September or October.

Shedding hacks

1. Invest in the right brushes

When Lowen is going through her spring and autumn glow-up season (as I've rebranded it) I crack out the undercoat rake (I got this one on Amazon). I use this at least weekly during shedding season and my top tip: do this outside, the amount of hair that you'll get out is unfathomable.

Then I get the slicker brush (like this one) out and I try to give her a once over daily during shedding season. Little and often is really useful with this too. If your dog is anything like mine, they’ll love the attention of being brushed. And you’ll get extra points for telling them what a beautiful pup they are while brushing.

2. Plan a strategic bath and blow dry

Golden retrievers don't need bathing often in my experience, but during shedding season it can help to loosen any dead hair. The key here is to dry with a cool hairdryer afterwards, aim it towards the direction you’re brushing in and it will help to pull out a lot of loose hair.

3. Feed high quality food

Your dog's health will benefit tremendously from feeding a high quality, appropriate diet – the best dog food you can afford. But did you know it can also affect their coat too?

The right diet can result in a shiny, healthy coat. On the flipside, a poor quality, filler-heavy diet can cause dry skin and even result in excessive shedding.

4. Get a decent vacuum

Even with daily brushing, tactical baths and a good quality diet, the fact is some dogs just do shed. It’s part of the breed and what you sign up for. So the next few tips are focused on managing the inevitable. And first up? A decent vacuum.

You’ll want a robust, heavy duty vacuum cleaner that can pull stubborn hairs out of carpet fibres with ease – we’ve rounded up the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair here. If you’re inclined to household laziness like me, you might also benefit from a more lightweight cordless vacuum cleaner for a quick swipe around in between the more thorough vacuums.

The ultimate solution is a robot vacuum cleaner! My parents got one when they got their golden retriever (Lowen’s sister, Indy) and it’s been a game changer. They set it to work while she’s out on a walk and they come home to pristine floors. Which is nice, for a few minutes.

5. Seek out dog-proof furnishings

Obviously we can’t all redecorate our homes to suit our pets, but when it is time to upgrade furniture or redecorate a room, it’s worth taking it into consideration. We have a fabric sofa, but opted for machine-washable covers so that we can keep it smelling fresh and hair free.

However when the time comes to upgrade our sofa, I will without a shadow of a doubt be going for leather like my parents. It’s a far more practical option when you’ve got a dog that sheds.

For now, we have a rotation of sofa throws that cover the sofa during Lowen’s shedding seasons. When one goes in the wash, we simply pull another one out so the sofa is never subject to her hair! You can also find blankets that are designed to be pet hair-resistant (like this one on Amazon).

6. Use the best lint rollers

Goldens love a cuddle and I’m powerless to resist, so I am now the proud owner of several lint rollers. These work to pull dog hair from your clothes and soft furnishings, so you can stay close to your friend throughout their big shed.

I have heard excellent things about the Chom Chom roller, so they’re next on my list of things to try along with a new pet hair remover glove (like this one).

7. Shift your mindset

Ultimately, if you have fallen in love with a dog that sheds, you need to accept it is part of having them. Yes it’s a bit inconvenient, but in my experience it is completely outweighed by the joy that having a goldie in the home brings.

Focus on the good stuff – like their lovable nature and unmatched zest for life – and the shedding thing won’t seem like quite such a big deal.

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

While I was pregnant, a quick scroll through social media would immediately bring up what seemed like hundreds of videos of mums complaining of postpartum pet aversion and negative feelings towards their dogs. Like many of us, I saw my dog as my ‘first baby’ and I was determined not to let this be the case for our family – after all, our dogs don’t choose for us to have a baby.

What is postpartum pet aversion?

Postpartum (after birth) depression, anxiety and rage are well-documented, and include feelings of sadness, anxiety, irritability, restlessness and anger. When you have a pet – often higher-needs dogs – these feelings can lead to postpartum pet aversion, with your dog being the cause of your frustration and irritability.

In fact, a survey in 2024 by insurers ManyPets suggested that 97% of respondents believed their dog’s behaviour had shifted since the baby came home. These changes included increased clinginess, protectiveness and jealousy. As a new parent, when you’re already sleep-deprived and stressed, these behaviours can be the cause of much annoyance.

How I avoided postpartum pet aversion

Having read up on the condition, I wanted to know what I could do to avoid myself developing negative feelings towards our German Shorthaired Pointer. The consensus seemed to be that preparation is key – ensuring your dog is well-trained, desensitised to baby noises and that you have a plan in place to meet their needs to ensure they don’t become destructive.

Our dog, Maple, is a former working dog, so her training was already pretty good in some respects. Other things, such as loose-lead walking, definitely needed work, so I really focused on that while I was pregnant. I played baby crying noises through my phone, and taught her to settle in the baby’s nursery so she learnt that it was a place for quiet.

However, you can prepare all you like but you will never truly know how you feel until the baby arrives, so I was still apprehensive. And of course, once we were navigating our new life with a baby and a dog, there were plenty of hiccups and times when I became frustrated.

Barking at people walking past the house during nap time, bringing mud into the house after a winter’s walk or constantly stealing the baby’s cuddly toys and comforters would all initially make me start to feel cross, but I learnt to deal with it. The baby soon slept through barking, spring came and the mud was no longer a problem, and I bought Maple her own soft toys so she wouldn’t steal the baby’s.

Of course, there were still times when I became frustrated – sleep deprivation makes even the calmest of us irritable – but on the whole we really put the effort in as a family to keep Maple included and meet all her needs, which meant she was happy and relaxed in the home. And there were plenty of ways she kept me sane, too – daily walks were vital to my mental health, and cuddles on the sofa after a sleepless night were just what I needed to get through the day.

Now, I couldn’t wish for a better ‘sister’ for my son. He grins at her every morning when she comes into his room with me to get him up, and she runs upstairs, tail wagging, when it’s time to get him up from his afternoon nap. He belly laughs like nothing else when he throws a ball for her and she brings it back every time, and I’m fairly certain his first word is going to be ‘Maple’...

Every year, there are families giving up their dogs for adoption following childbirth. It’s always sad when people feel rehoming their dog is the only answer, but if you’re feeling overwhelmed, just know that postpartum pet aversion is most likely only temporary. Try to remember all the good times you’ve had with your dog, and know that it’s just as big a change for them as it is for you. And if your dog’s behaviour is proving a lot to deal with, reach out to a vet or a professional trainer or behaviourist.

Read next: How I stopped my dog becoming jealous of my newborn

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

If you’re interested in tough, robust and seriously strong dog breeds, you’re in the right place. In this article we’re going to look at some of the strongest dog breeds around, as well as explore what makes a dog strong and what you need to know before committing yourself to one of these powerful large breeds. We also spoke with experienced vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan for her expert insight into powerful dogs…

What makes a dog strong?

Before we take a look at some of the world’s strongest dogs, we need to clarify what makes a dog strong.

“The strongest dogs are large and giant breeds that have been bred for hard work. These dogs are muscular and built for endurance,” explains Dr MacMillan. Many such dogs have been recognised for their extraordinary talents and above and beyond work ethic, and as such now work alongside people in all manner of roles, from hunting and herding to military and service dogs. This makes many of these breeds biddable, hardworking and a pleasure to train.

“Rottweilers are a great example of a strong dog breed. These big dogs were bred to guard, so they need to be physically intimidating and have the strength to fend off would-be intruders. Alaskan Malamutes are designed to pull sledges in harsh, snowy conditions, so they need their physical strength to do their job,” says Dr MacMillan.

“Saint Bernards are gentle giants that are strong enough to help rescue people stranded on the side of mountains. Rhodesian Ridgebacks are another strong guarding breed, designed to guard livestock on farms in South Africa,” she adds.

Strongest dog breeds

Rottweiler

Hailing from the mastiffs of the Roman army, the Rottweiler might be a tough, hard worker, but within a family Rotties are affectionate, gentle and sometimes even silly.

Their thick muscular body can weigh as much as 135 pounds and they'll need two hours of exercise a day. If you've got the stamina to keep up, this chilled yet courageous dog can make for a wonderful family pet.

Alaskan Malamute

Bred as an arctic sled dog, the Alaskan Malamute looks every bit the part. With their muscular body, deep chest, strong shoulders and snowproof coat these dogs, who can weigh up to 85 pounds, are seriously tough.

And they have to be, they are the strongest of the sled dogs. Yet despite their brute strength, this pack animal is happy to cuddle up with its family once he's done pulling sleds (or, more likely, been exercised for two hours).

Saint Bernard

The Saint Bernard is big, seriously big. A male can weigh as much as 180 pounds! Yet despite their size, they're known as the genial giant of the Swiss Alps. Excellent with children, these intelligent, strong dogs were originally bred by monks in the Swiss Alps to rescue travellers, as well as for guarding.

While they're still used as search and rescue dogs, the beloved breed is well suited to life as a family pet. Just make sure they get their hour of exercise a day!

Rhodesian Ridgeback

Hailing from South Africa where this scent hound was bred to track game, this athletic, powerful dog has a strong prey drive. The name comes from the ridge of hair growing in the reverse direction along its spine, which, according to local folklore, denotes courage.

Weighing up to 85 pounds, these athletes need upward of two hours of exercise a day. While they are loyal companions and very affectionate with those they are bonded to, this strong dog is not for the faint hearted.

Great Dane

Muscular yet elegant, sweet yet powerful, Great Danes are known as the “Apollo of Dogs”. Weighing up to 175 pounds and taller than most people when standing on their hind legs, this breed is imposing.

Bred from hunting dogs who sought wild boar, the hunting instinct is still present. Kind and protective to its family, the Great Dane makes for a wonderful addition to any family. Assuming they have a spare two hours a day to exercise this noble beast, that is.

German Shepherd

Brave, intelligent and powerful to boot, many consider the German Shepherd the ultimate jack of all trades. Certainly, they are used for a number of roles including police work, assistance dog, military duties, search and rescue and drug and explosive detection.

If you're looking for a loyal dog, you'd be hard pressed to beat a German Shepherd, a breed known for putting their life on the line to save a loved one. Just make sure you've got time to exercise your new best friend for at least two hours a day.

Newfoundland

A strong, adaptable working water dog, the Newfoundland’s name comes from Northeast Canada from when he originated.

Over the years this breed has pulled logs from the forest, hauled in fishing nets, retrieved equipment from the water and even jumped out of low flying planes in search and rescue missions. We told you, adaptable! In a family setting the Newfoundland is gentle and loyal, just make sure you can exercise yours up to an hour each day.

English Bulldog

Originally bred for bull-baiting and dog fighting, English Bulldogs are known for their bravery and tenacity. Short but powerful, the bulldog is a well muscled dog with a powerful jaw.

A distinctive looking dog, Bulldogs are renowned for their character and endearing mixture of qualities: they're easygoing yet courageous, tough looking yet friendly. Make sure yours is well bred, and gets walked at least an hour a day (unless it's hot, as being a brachycephalic breed they can have breathing issues in the heat).

Doberman Pinscher

The biggest pinschers, the Doberman takes its name from Louis Dobermann, a German tax collector who wanted a fierce looking dog in this line of work to protect him and deter any thieves.

Mixing breeds such as the Weimaraner, greyhound, Manchester Terrier, Rottweiler and German Shepherd, Louis Dobermann was able to get the combination he was after: super smart, fast, powerful and robust of character.

This combination of intelligence and biddable nature makes the Dobermann popular in the armed forces and police too. But this sleek, powerful dog makes for a great family dog too. Weighing in at up to 100 pounds, just be sure you've got more than two hours a day to exercise.

What you need to know before you get a strong dog

Strong dogs have got a lot going for them, they’re hardworking and admirable creatures. But they are not for everyone. Before you commit yourself to a strong dog, it’s worth considering whether you have the time and inclination to train and exercise them to the degree which they need.

Training is even more important

“For all these dogs, their strength and size serve a purpose. Owners of these dog breeds must appreciate this and ensure they appropriately socialize and train their pets. While you can get away with a Yorkshire Terrier pulling you on the leash, a 170-pound Saint Bernard is another matter,” says Dr MacMillan.

But how do you train a big, strong dog? It turns out, in much the same way you’d train any dog. The key, as always, is consistency.

“Owners should start early and use positive reinforcement training techniques. By praising and rewarding your dog for good behavior, you will be encouraging them to keep repeating this. Never use negative training methods, like shouting or physical punishment, as this could lead to anxiety and other behavioral issues. Consistency is also key. That means having firm rules and sticking with them, otherwise your dog may become confused making your training tougher,” adds Dr MacMillan.

Ensure they are well exercised

If you haven’t got time to exercise your strong dog as much as they need, you’ll both end up miserable. So it’s really important to think about your schedule and realistic amount of time you have to commit to your dog before coming home with a Rottweiler puppy!

“Many of these dogs are working breeds and will have certain exercise demands that will need to be met. Under-exercised dogs will be more likely to be boisterous and distractible during training, which can be hard work with a powerful breed,” says Dr MacMillan.

Get specialist help

But what about if you’ve already got a strong dog, and you’ve run into trouble? Perhaps they are not well trained and walking them has become impossible.

“If you are struggling with a strong dog, then speak to a dog trainer or qualified pet behaviorist for assistance. It is important to address problems early on rather than letting things get out of hand.

“Some owners look for a quick fix, like a different type of harness. While this may make some difference, appropriate training is going to be the only way to stop a strong dog from pulling you on the leash,” advises Dr MacMillan.

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

Pica in dogs may not be a familiar term to many pet parents, but it describes a surprisingly common behavioral and medical condition where dogs consume non-food items. As a vet with 14 years of experience, I’ve seen everything from socks and stones to toys and plastic bags eaten.

Many curious canines have been known to indulge in this unusual habit. While it might initially seem quirky or mischievous, pica is far more than a passing phase. It can pose serious risks to a dog’s health and wellbeing if left unaddressed, making awareness and early intervention essential.

Below, I’ll explain exactly what pica in dogs is, the common symptoms and causes, and how we diagnose and treat it. I’ll also discuss why it can be dangerous, and when you should seek urgent veterinary attention. I will help you recognise the signs early so you can protect your dog’s health and wellbeing.

What is pica in dogs?

Pica in dogs is the repeated eating of non-food substances that have no nutritional value. These can include stones, soil, fabric, plastic, metal, sticks, paper, or even feces. While many dogs will occasionally chew or mouth unusual objects out of curiosity, pica is different – it’s a compulsive behavior or symptom of an underlying problem.

In veterinary medicine, pica is not considered a diagnosis in itself, but rather a sign that something else may be going on. This can be physical (such as a gastrointestinal disorder) or psychological (such as anxiety or boredom). In some cases, pica can be dangerous enough to cause life-threatening complications like intestinal blockages or poisoning.

Symptoms of pica in dogs

The most obvious symptom is your dog actually eating non-food items. However, there are other signs that might indicate pica or complications from it, such as:

• Repeatedly picking up and swallowing inedible objects
• Vomiting or retching
• Diarrhea or constipation
• Abdominal discomfort or bloating
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy or weakness
• Signs of pain when touched around the stomach
• Evidence of objects missing from the home or garden

If your dog has swallowed something that could cause a blockage or be toxic (e.g., batteries, sharp objects or fabric), you should contact your vet immediately.

Causes of pica in dogs

There are several possible causes of pica in dogs, and sometimes it’s a combination of factors. The most common include:

• Nutritional deficiencies – Low levels of certain minerals or vitamins can trigger unusual eating habits.
• Medical conditions – Disorders like inflammatory bowel disease, liver disease, anaemia, or endocrine issues (such as diabetes or thyroid problems) may be linked.
• Behavioural issues – Stress, anxiety, separation anxiety, or boredom can lead to repetitive chewing and swallowing of inappropriate objects.
• Learned behaviour – If a puppy discovers that eating something odd gets a reaction (even if it’s negative), they may repeat it.
• Breed tendencies – Some breeds, such as Labradors and Spaniels, are notorious for eating things they shouldn’t.
• Age-related changes – Older dogs with cognitive decline may start to display unusual eating behaviours.

How do you treat pica in dogs?

Treatment for pica in dogs depends on the underlying cause. Your vet will usually start with a full health check, possibly including blood tests, fecal analysis, and imaging (such as X-rays or ultrasound) to look for both the cause and any complications.

Management options include:

• Medical treatment: Addressing any underlying illness, such as treating anemia, correcting nutritional deficiencies, or managing gastrointestinal disease.
• Dietary adjustments: Feeding a balanced, high-quality diet and ensuring your dog’s meals meet all nutritional needs.
• Behavioral modification: Using training and positive reinforcement to discourage object-eating and redirect your dog’s focus.
• Environmental management: Removing access to tempting items and providing safe chew toys or puzzle feeders.
• Increased stimulation: Regular exercise, interactive play, and mental enrichment to reduce boredom and anxiety.
• Specialist referral: In some cases, your vet may refer you to a veterinary behaviorist for ongoing support.

It’s important to remember that pica can’t always be “cured” instantly – in many cases, it requires consistent management and patience.

Is pica fatal in dogs?

Pica can be fatal depending on what is eaten and the quantity. The most common and dangerous risk is an intestinal obstruction. This is when the swallowed object blocks the digestive tract. This is a life-threatening emergency that often requires surgery. Perforation (where a sharp object pierces the stomach or intestines) and poisoning from toxic substances are also possible.

Even if your dog passes the object without obvious harm, repeated ingestion can cause chronic irritation, internal injury, or infections. That’s why it’s so important to address pica early, rather than hoping your dog will “grow out of it.”

Pica in dogs can be frustrating, worrying, and potentially dangerous, but with the right veterinary support and a tailored management plan, most dogs can live happy, healthy lives. If you ever suspect your dog has swallowed something they shouldn’t, don’t wait for symptoms to develop – call your vet straight away.

By recognizing the signs, understanding the possible causes, and taking steps to treat or manage the behavior, you’ll be giving your dog the best chance of avoiding complications and enjoying a safe, fulfilling life.

Read next: How to stop a dog from chewing on wood and the best durable dog toys for chewers

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Lethargy in cats is something I have encountered frequently in my 14 years as a veterinary surgeon. It is a very common reason for owners to bring their cats into the clinic, often describing them as “not themselves,” “not quite right,” or just “more sleepy than usual.” Because cats naturally enjoy long naps, it can sometimes be tricky to tell if they’re just resting or if there’s an underlying problem.

In veterinary practice, I’ve seen cases where lethargy was caused by something minor, like a mild viral infection, and others where it was the first sign of a life-threatening condition. Cats are masters at hiding illness, so subtle changes in their behavior or activity levels can be important clues.

The key to helping your cat is recognizing what’s normal for them and spotting changes early. This article will explain what lethargy in cats really means, the symptoms to watch for, the possible causes, and how you can help your cat feel better, as well as when it’s essential to seek veterinary attention.

What is lethargy in cats?

Lethargy in cats refers to a noticeable decrease in energy, enthusiasm, or willingness to engage in normal activities. A lethargic cat may spend more time sleeping, show less interest in play, grooming, or eating, and may seem generally “sluggish” or weak.

It’s important to remember that cats normally sleep for 12–16 hours a day, so sleep alone isn’t a cause for concern. The difference with lethargy is that your cat’s overall responsiveness and interest in their environment changes, even during the hours when they’d usually be active.

Symptoms of lethargy in cats

While lethargy itself is a symptom, you may also notice:

• Decreased appetite: Eating less than usual or not eating food altogether. If you're wondering why your cat isn’t eating, it can often be linked to an underlying illness causing lethargy.
• Reduced grooming: Coat may become dull, greasy, or matted.
• Less interest in play: Your cat won't play and even favorite toys may be ignored.
• Sleeping in unusual places: Particularly hiding away more than normal. A common query is why is my cat hiding?, as this can be a key sign of pain or stress.
• Slow or stiff movements: Reluctance to jump or climb.
• Changes in vocalization: Quieter than usual or, in some cases, more vocal.
• Weight loss: This can be gradual or sudden.
• Changes in toileting habits: You might notice things like urinating outside the litter tray.

If you notice lethargy alongside other signs like breathing difficulty, persistent vomiting, or collapse, this is an emergency and you should contact your vet immediately.

Causes of lethargy in cats

Lethargy in cats can be caused by a wide range of issues, including:

• Infection: Viral (e.g., feline calicivirus) or bacterial infections can be a huge drain on your cat’s energy.
• Parasites: Fleas, ticks, and worms can cause anemia or general unwellness.
• Pain or injury: Cats in pain may avoid movement and rest more than usual. Learning the subtle signs of pain in cats is crucial for early detection.
• Anemia: A low red blood cell count can leave your cat weak and tired.
• Heart disease: Reduces the body’s ability to circulate oxygen efficiently.
• Kidney disease: Common in older cats and can cause toxin build-up in the blood.
• Liver disease: Affects metabolism and energy levels.
• Endocrine disorders: Such as diabetes mellitus or hyperthyroidism.
• Cancer: Certain cancers can cause fatigue, either directly or through secondary effects.
• Toxin ingestion: Poisoning can cause sudden onset lethargy.
• Stress or emotional changes: Cats can withdraw and rest more when anxious or depressed.

How can I help my lethargic cat?

The first step is to monitor your cat closely and seek veterinary advice. While mild lethargy that resolves within 24 hours may be due to something minor, anything that persists or worsens needs investigation.

Treatment will depend on the underlying cause, and may include:

• Veterinary examination and diagnostic tests: Your vet may recommend blood tests, urine tests, imaging (X-ray or ultrasound), or other checks to identify the cause.
• Parasite control: Regular flea, tick, and worm treatment can prevent lethargy caused by infestations. Ensure you are using the best flea treatment for cats to rule this out.
• Supportive care: This might involve fluids, nutritional support, and pain relief.
• Specific medication: Such as antibiotics for bacterial infections, insulin for diabetes, or heart medications.
• Lifestyle adjustments: For chronic conditions, adjustments to diet, environment, and routine can improve comfort and energy.

Lethargy in cats is a symptom that shouldn’t be ignored. While it may be due to something minor, it can also be the first sign of serious illness. The safest approach is to get your cat checked by a vet, especially if the change is sudden, severe, or accompanied by other symptoms.

By knowing your cat’s normal behavior and acting promptly when something seems wrong, you can help ensure they get the care they need – and hopefully get them back to their lively, affectionate selves as soon as possible.

Read next: Cat sleep positions

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Can cats drink oat milk? It’s a question I encounter increasingly in my veterinary practice. As more households embrace plant-based diets, many animal lovers wonder whether their cats can share in that trend. With over 14 years of experience as a vet, I've advised many pet owners about human foods and the surprising risks they can pose to our feline friends.

While oat milk might seem like a harmless, dairy-free option, it's important to remember that cats aren’t small humans. They are obligate carnivores with digestive systems finely tuned for protein and fats, not plant-derived sugars. So before you pour a little into a saucer for your whiskered companion, it helps to know what’s safe, and what’s not.

In this article, I’ll explain the realities of feeding oat milk to cats and discuss some better alternatives. While you're here, you might also want to learn more about what cats should drink.

Can cats drink oat milk?

Cats can drink oat milk without it causing them any immediate harm. Because it is a plant-based product, oat milk does not contain lactose. This is important, as many cats struggle to digest lactose properly, which is why cow’s milk often leads to uncomfortable symptoms such as stomach cramps, bloating, or diarrhea.

By comparison, oat milk is far less likely to upset the digestive system. However, just because something is safe does not mean it is useful or beneficial. Oat milk offers no meaningful nutritional value to cats.

As obligate carnivores, cats have very specific dietary requirements that come almost exclusively from animal proteins. Oat milk does not provide these. It is very low in protein, it does not contain essential amino acids such as taurine, and it lacks the healthy fats that support a cat’s overall wellbeing.

Instead, it is relatively high in carbohydrates, which cats do not process efficiently. If given regularly, these extra calories can contribute to gradual weight gain, particularly in indoor cats that are less active and therefore more prone to obesity. For these reasons, while an occasional sip of oat milk is unlikely to cause any problems, it should not form a part of a cat’s regular diet.

How much oat milk can cats drink?

If you do decide to give your cat a little oat milk, it should only ever be regarded as an occasional treat rather than a regular part of their diet.

A very small amount is more than enough – around a teaspoon or two, offered no more than once or twice a week. It is important to make sure the oat milk is plain and unsweetened, as flavored varieties often contain added sugars, preservatives, or artificial sweeteners.

Some sweeteners, such as xylitol, are highly toxic to cats and must be strictly avoided. To be safe, it's worth familiarising yourself with a list of human foods that are poisonous to cats.

For this reason, always read the label carefully before offering any to your pet. Keeping it simple, plain, and in very modest quantities is the safest way to ensure that this occasional indulgence does not put your cat’s health at risk.

What kind of milk can cats drink?

Here’s a guide to feline-friendly 'milks' that are safe to give to your cat.

1. Lactose-free cat milk: This type of milk is specially formulated for cats and is a far safer option than standard cow’s milk. Because the lactose has been removed, it is much easier for cats to digest and is far less likely to cause stomach upset. Many brands also add in extra nutrients, such as vitamins and minerals, to provide a small nutritional boost. Even so, it should still be given in moderation as a treat rather than a dietary staple.

2. Goat milk (lactose-reduced): Goat milk naturally contains slightly less lactose than cow’s milk, which means it may be gentler on a cat’s digestive system. Some cats may tolerate it better, but it is by no means an essential part of their diet. If your cat is already eating a nutritionally complete cat food, goat milk offers no additional benefit, so at best it should be viewed as an occasional indulgence.

3. Kitten milk formula: Commercially prepared kitten milk replacers are specifically designed for orphaned kittens or those who are unable to nurse from their mother. They are carefully balanced to provide the right levels of protein, fat, and essential nutrients that a growing kitten requires. Once a kitten has been weaned onto solid food, however, these formulas are no longer appropriate or necessary.

4. Plain, unsweetened plant milks (such as oat or almond milk): While these are generally safe in tiny amounts, they do not provide anything useful for a cat nutritionally. In fact, they are largely empty calories and can be surprisingly high in carbohydrates, which cats have little need for and can easily contribute to unwanted weight gain. If offered at all, they should be limited to very rare, very small sips only.

What is the closest thing to cat milk?

The gold standard is always commercial kitten formula, such as KMR or Cimicat, which is scientifically tailored to meet the high protein, fat, and calorie needs of growing kittens. Unlike oat milk or other human options, it truly resembles natural feline milk in composition.

Do cats need milk?

The short and simple answer is no, they don’t. Once kittens have been fully weaned from their mother, which usually happens somewhere between eight and 10 weeks of age, they no longer have any biological need for milk in their diet. At this stage, their digestive systems mature and adapt to process solid food, and their nutritional requirements can be fully met by eating a complete and balanced kitten food.

As for adult cats, water is the only liquid they genuinely need to stay healthy and hydrated. Despite the common image of cats happily lapping up a saucer of milk, this is more of a cultural myth than a nutritional necessity.

Many cats are actually lactose intolerant, which means that drinking cow’s milk can result in unpleasant digestive upsets such as diarrhea, bloating, or abdominal discomfort. Even specially formulated lactose-free milks or plant-based alternatives, while usually safer for the digestive system, are not required and do not offer any significant nutritional value.

What they can do, however, is add extra calories that your cat doesn’t really need. These “hidden” calories may seem harmless, but over time they can contribute to gradual weight gain.

Obesity is unfortunately one of the most common health issues I see in practice, and it can lead to serious secondary problems such as diabetes, arthritis, and heart disease. For that reason, it’s far better to stick with fresh water as the only drink your cat has access to, and keep milk – of any kind – off the menu. Learning how to tell if your cat is obese is a key skill for any owner.

While cats can drink oat milk in small quantities, it adds no real nutritional benefit and is best treated as an occasional novelty – not a regular part of their diet.

Your cat’s hydration and health are best supported by fresh water, a balanced feline diet, and occasionally, a specially formulated cat milk treat. If you're curious to explore more safe feeding habits or treat ideas, make sure to read up on foods your cat shouldn't eat for more insight.

Read next: Should cats drink milk and should kittens drink milk?

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Hair loss in dogs is something I’ve seen countless times in my 14 years as a practicing vet. A dog’s coat is more than just for looks – it’s an important part of their health, providing warmth, protection, and even acting as a reflection of their overall wellbeing. When the fur starts to thin, develop bald patches, or fall out entirely, it can be worrying for owners, and understandably so.

As a vet, I know that hair loss (also called alopecia) can be a sign of anything from something as simple as seasonal shedding to more serious skin conditions or underlying illnesses. While some causes are straightforward and easily treated, others require thorough investigation and tailored treatment plans.

In this guide, I’ll explain what hair loss in dogs actually means, the symptoms to watch out for, the most common causes, and how it can be treated. I’ll also share advice on when to seek veterinary attention to make sure your dog stays as healthy – and as fluffy – as possible.

What is hair loss in dogs?

Hair loss in dogs refers to a partial or complete absence of hair in areas where it should normally grow. This can affect small patches of the body, larger areas, or even the entire coat, depending on the underlying cause. It may appear gradually over time and be so subtle that some owners will not even notice, or it can develop quite suddenly.

Unlike normal dog shedding, which happens as part of the coat’s natural growth cycle, alopecia is abnormal and usually indicates that something is interfering with hair growth or causing the hair to fall out prematurely. This can be linked to skin problems such as dermatitis, allergies, parasites, nutritional deficiencies, hormonal imbalances, or even behavioral issues.

Symptoms of hair loss in dogs

The signs of hair loss in dogs can vary depending on the cause, but common symptoms include:

• Bald patches on the skin: Clearly visible areas with no fur.
• Thinning fur: The coat can look less dense or full than normal.
• Red or inflamed skin: Irritation beneath the fur.
• Crusting, scaling, or scabs: Skin surface changes that are visible to owners at home.
• Itching and scratching: Sometimes intense and persistent.
• Excessive licking or chewing: Especially on affected areas.
• Changes in skin color: Either darkening (hyperpigmentation) or lightening (depigmentation).

Sometimes hair loss is accompanied by other signs such as lethargy, weight changes, or increased thirst, which can give clues to an underlying hormonal disorder.

Causes of hair loss in dogs

Hair loss in dogs can be caused by a wide variety of factors. The most common include:

• Allergies: Dogs can be allergic to environmental triggers such as pollen, dust mites, or mold, as well as certain food ingredients like beef, chicken, or dairy. Allergies often cause intense itching, leading to scratching, licking, and fur loss.
• Parasites: Fleas, mange mites (sarcoptic or demodectic), and lice can all irritate the skin, triggering scratching and chewing that leads to bald patches. Some parasites burrow into the skin, directly damaging hair follicles.
• Skin infections: Bacterial infections (such as staphylococcal dermatitis) or fungal infections like ringworm can cause patchy hair loss, scabs, and redness. Infections may occur on their own or as a secondary skin issue due to damage from scratching or parasites.
• Hormonal imbalances: Conditions such as hypothyroidism (low thyroid hormone), Cushing’s disease (excess cortisol), and sex hormone imbalances can disrupt the hair growth cycle, leading to symmetrical hair loss and changes to the coat texture.
• Poor nutrition: A diet lacking in essential fatty acids, protein, vitamins, or minerals can affect coat quality and contribute to gradual hair thinning. Always ensure you are feeding the best dog food you can.
• Stress or behavioral causes: Some dogs over-groom, chew, or scratch themselves due to stress, anxiety, or boredom, which can result in self-inflicted alopecia.
• Seasonal or breed-related shedding: Certain heavy-shedding breeds, such as Huskies or German Shepherds, have heavy seasonal molts. While this isn’t true alopecia, it can look alarming to an unprepared owner.

Treatment of hair loss in dogs

Treatment depends entirely on the cause, so an accurate diagnosis is essential. Your vet will start by taking a full clinical history, they will then examine your dog’s skin and coat, and possibly running tests such as skin scrapings, hair plucks, blood tests, or allergy testing.

• Treating underlying conditions: Allergies need to be managed with dietary changes, medication, or in some cases immunotherapy. Parasites need to be treated using prescription flea, tick, and mite control products. Infections are targeted with antibiotics, antifungals, or medicated shampoos. Hormonal disorders require long-term medication and regular monitoring.
  
• Nutritional support: Switching to a complete, balanced diet and adding omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids can help restore coat health and promote healthy regrowth.
  
• Skin care: Medicated shampoos, moisturizing sprays, and topical ointments can soothe itching and reduce the risk of secondary infection.
  
• Behavioral support: If stress or boredom is a factor, providing enrichment activities, behavior training, and in some cases calming supplements or medication can help.

When should I be concerned about my dog’s hair loss?

You should book a veterinary appointment if:

• The hair loss is sudden or rapidly spreading.
• The skin looks sore, red, crusty, or infected.
• Your dog is scratching, licking, or chewing excessively.
• There are distinct bald spots rather than generalised shedding.
• Other symptoms are present, such as changes in appetite, thirst, weight, or behaviour.

While mild seasonal shedding is normal, any unexplained hair loss or persistent dog skin problems should always be investigated. Early diagnosis means faster treatment, better comfort for your dog, and often a quicker return to a shiny, healthy coat.

Hair loss in dogs can be unsettling, but with prompt veterinary assessment and the right treatment, most cases can be successfully managed. Keeping up with parasite control, feeding a balanced diet, and regularly checking your dog’s coat will help prevent many problems – and keep your dog looking and feeling their best.

Read next: Skin allergies in dogs and hot spots on dogs

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Pica in cats is a surprisingly common, yet often misunderstood, condition where our feline friends develop a tendency to eat non-food items. As a small animal vet with 14 years of experience, I’ve seen my fair share of cats nibbling on weird and wonderful things, including wool, plastic, cardboard, and even shoelaces!

While it might seem quirky or amusing at first, pica can be a serious concern – both from a medical and behavioral point of view. Many owners are unaware their cat has pica until something goes wrong – this could be a blockage, persistent vomiting, or a mysterious disappearance of socks.

Over the years, I’ve had numerous cases come through the consult room door with cats needing x-rays, endoscopy, or even surgery after swallowing something they shouldn’t have. Understanding pica early can make all the difference when it comes to preventing complications.

What is pica in cats?

Pica is the term used to describe the act of eating non-food substances. In cats, this can include a wide variety of materials – from fabric, wool, and plastic to rubber bands, string, paper, and even cat litter. The key difference between pica and normal chewing is ingestion – it’s not just a bit of playful mouthing; cats with pica actively eat these inappropriate items.

This behavior is not limited to kittens, although it often begins when cats are young. It can persist into adulthood and may escalate if not addressed. Some breeds, like the Siamese, seem more predisposed, possibly due to their inquisitive and intelligent nature.

It’s important to note that pica isn’t just “bad behavior.” It can be a sign of an underlying medical, dietary, or psychological issue – and it’s something that needs veterinary attention.

Symptoms of pica in cats

The symptoms of pica can vary depending on what your cat is eating, how often they do it, and whether it’s causing secondary health problems. Look out for the following:

• Chewing or swallowing non-food items (e.g. wool, plastic bags, cardboard, cables)
• Frequent vomiting – especially if non-digestible items are present
• Lethargy or loss of appetite – signs of a possible blockage
• Changes in bowel movements – diarrhea, constipation, or no feces at all
• Abdominal pain or sensitivity
• Unusual interest in specific materials – seeking out and repeatedly chewing one type of object
• Pica behavior triggered by stress - for example, moving house, new pets, or changes in routine

If your cat is showing any of these signs, particularly if they are eating foreign objects or displaying gastrointestinal symptoms, it’s time to get in contact with your vet. Make sure to read up on the important health symptoms you shouldn’t ignore so that you are aware of what to look out for.

Causes of pica in cats

Pica in cats can have a wide range of causes – both physical and psychological. Here are the most common:

• Nutritional deficiencies: Some cats may instinctively try to make up for missing nutrients by eating strange items. A poor-quality diet or unbalanced homemade food can be to blame. Read our top tips on how to improve your cat’s diet.
• Medical issues: Conditions like anemia, gastrointestinal disease (such as inflammatory bowel disease or parasites), or dental disease may lead to pica.
• Genetics: Certain breeds are more prone to pica. Siamese and Burmese cats are classic examples.
• Early weaning: Kittens taken away from their mother too early may develop wool-sucking or fabric-chewing behaviors that evolve into pica.
• Stress or anxiety: Major life changes causing stress, boredom, or lack of environmental enrichment, can trigger compulsive behaviors, including pica.
• Attention-seeking: If a cat learns that eating odd things gets a strong reaction from their owner, it may repeat the behavior.
• Compulsive disorder: In rare cases, pica may form part of a feline compulsive behavior condition, similar to OCD in humans.

Getting to the root cause is vital, and often requires a combination of physical examination, lab tests, and a thorough behavioural history.

How do you treat pica in cats?

Treatment for pica in cats will depend entirely on the underlying cause, but here are the key strategies:

• Veterinary assessment: This should always be the first step. Your vet may suggest blood tests, fecal analysis, x-rays, or an ultrasound to rule out physical causes like anemia, parasites, or blockages.
• Dietary review: Ensure your cat is on a complete, balanced diet appropriate for their age and health status. Your vet or a qualified pet nutritionist can help.
• Environmental enrichment: Boredom is a common trigger for pica. Make sure you are providing lots of interactive toys, puzzle feeders, and high spaces to climb and explore. Make sure to schedule lots of regular play sessions to give your cat focused attention.
• Stress reduction: If your cat’s behavior is linked to anxiety, pheromone diffusers (like this one from Amazon), safe hiding spots, and routine-building can help. In some cases, anti-anxiety medication prescribed by a vet may be needed.
• Remove temptation: Keep objects your cat is drawn to out of reach. This includes string, hair ties, plastic bags, electrical cords, and fabric items. Use child locks or storage boxes if needed.
• Positive reinforcement: Never punish a cat for pica. Instead, reward alternative behaviors like playing or using a scratching post.
• Referral to a behaviorist: If your cat’s pica is severe or doesn’t respond to basic management, a referral to a veterinary behaviorist may be the next step.

Prevention is key, and early intervention can stop the behaviour from becoming a long-term habit.

Is pica fatal in cats?

Pica in cats isn’t always life-threatening – but it definitely can be. The main danger is that your cat could ingest something that causes a gastrointestinal blockage, which can be fatal without prompt surgery. I’ve seen cats require emergency procedures after swallowing things like hair bands, ribbon, string, and even chunks of rubber matting.

Other risks include choking, toxic exposure (if they chew on harmful materials), and damage to the teeth or digestive tract. Chronic pica can also be distressing for owners and lead to strained relationships with their pets if the behavior isn’t understood.

If your cat has already swallowed something they shouldn’t have – particularly string-like items – do not try to pull it out. Instead, contact your vet immediately. These cases are classed as emergencies. In milder cases, pica can be managed successfully with lifestyle changes, behavioral support, and close monitoring. The sooner it’s addressed, the better the outcome for your cat.

Pica in cats is more than just a quirky habit – it’s a complex behavior that often stems from medical, dietary, or emotional needs. With the right diagnosis and support, many cats can overcome or manage their pica safely. If you suspect your cat may be displaying signs of pica, don’t ignore it – speak to your vet and take action early.

A little awareness goes a long way when it comes to protecting your curious cat from their own mischievous appetite.

Read next: Weird cat behaviors explained and why cats eat hair

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Can cat fleas live on humans? If you have a feline friend in your family it's a question you may well be asking. Thankfully, the sorts of fleas that enjoy setting up camp in your cat's fur don't like living on humans, so you don't need to worry about them becoming permanent residents on your skin.

That being said, while cat fleas won't live on you, they can still bite you. These bites can be itchy and unsightly, which is why protecting your kitty by applying one of the best topical flea treatments for cats is so important. When your cat is protected, so too are you and your home.

To make sure you know everything you need to know about cat fleas, we turned to expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan. Below, she explains whether cat fleas can live in your bed and whether it's okay to sleep with your kitty if you know they have fleas. Plus, we share our step-by-step guide for getting rid of a flea infestation.

Can cat fleas live on humans?

Can cat fleas live on humans? The good news is, there's no chance of that happening according to Dr MacMillan.

"Cat fleas don't live on humans. They prefer to hide in the warmer body temperatures of a cat or a dog, and like hiding in fur. If you get bitten by a flea, it is usually a one-off bite. The flea quickly recognizes its mistake and hops off again to look for an alternative host.

This means that fleas don't breed and complete their life cycle on humans. There is, however, a human flea that can infect people, but these are far less common than cat fleas and only pose a problem in certain parts of the world."

So there you go – while fleas can indeed bite humans, the flea life cycle can only continue when these critters have animals with fur or feathers that they can hide out in.

Can fleas live in your bed?

Unfortunately, cat fleas can definitely live in your bed as well as your blankets, carpets and any other soft furnishings in your home, which is why using one of the safest flea treatments for cats is so important – it won't just protect your feline friend, it will also protect you.

"Adult fleas on your cat will reproduce and lay eggs. These roll off your pet and into the environment, where they hatch out into larvae," explains Dr. MacMillan. "These small, wriggling maggot-like larvae will feed on dirt and debris. They prefer to stay away from the light, so they will be found deep in the carpet or folds of your bed, making them hard to spot.

"After a period of feeding, they will spin a cocoon and enter the pupal stage of the flea life cycle. Here, they will wait until they receive the right signals to hatch out as adults. Warmth, increased humidity, vibrations, and carbon dioxide will all encourage pupae to hatch. It's just bad luck that you might be the one to receive their first bite, particularly as you roll around in your sleep!"

So, while cozying up to your kitty at night can definitely be soothing, make sure they're protected against pesky parasites to ensure they're the only one you're sharing your bed with!

Can I still sleep with my cat if she has fleas?

Should you let a cat sleep on your bed? We know how therapeutic it can be to turn off the lights and snuggle up with your cat – there's something so comforting about their presence and gentle purr, so we understand how reluctant you might be to boot them out of your bed.

However, according to Dr MacMillan, it's not a good idea to sleep with your feline friend if you know they have fleas.

"Reproducing fleas will drop hundreds of eggs from an infected cat, which fall into your bedding." The good news is that once you've applied an effective flea product to your cat, you can let them wander around your bedroom as normal.

"This will encourage any immature fleas already lying in wait in your bedroom to hatch out and hop onto her, rather than you," Dr. MacMillan explains. "They will then come into contact with her anti-parasite product and soon die. So, you will find that you will get on top of the flea life cycle problem much quicker if you let your cat enter all the rooms she normally does. Regularly hot washing your bedding will also help, as well as treating your home to reduce parasite numbers using an effective flea spray."

How to get rid of a flea infestation

When it comes to how to get rid of fleas in your home and on your pet, there are lots of things you can do to keep these pesky parasites away. Below, you'll find a step-by-step guide for keeping your cat and your home flea-free – and it's not as tricky as you might think!

1. Groom your cat regularly

Not only are regular grooming sessions one of the best ways to bond with your cat, but brushing your kitty on a frequent basis will help you spot any fleas before they become a major issue.

2. Apply a flea treatment

When it comes to flea medicines vs flea collars, both have their pros and cons but it's not so important which one you choose – instead, what matters most is that you use an effective flea treatment to protect your cat from parasites.

If you spot that your kitty has fleas, be sure to treat them quickly as these critters are notorious for spreading diseases, which can be passed on to your feline friend.

You'll also want to note how often you need to apply your chosen treatment – most topicals need to be applied every 30 days, while collars may only need to be changed every six to eight months.

3. Vacuum regularly

If you have a cat in your family, it can be worth investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair. Not only do these do a great job of getting rid of all that pesky fur, but a good vacuum can help you to suck up some of the flea life stages.

The warmth and vibration of the vacuum cleaner will also encourage new fleas to hatch out. While this doesn't sound like an ideal situation, if you've applied a flea treatment to your cat this is actually just what you want as those newly hatched fleas will jump straight onto your kitty where they'll be killed by the treatment.

4. Wash your cat's bedding

Flea eggs fall off your cat's coat on a regular basis and one prime place they tend to collect is in their bed. For that reason, make sure you wash their bed and bedding frequently at 60°C as this will help to kill the flea life cycle.

5. Allow your cat to access all areas of your home

As Dr. MacMillan mentioned above, once your feline friend has had a flea treatment applied, you'll want to let them have access to all the usual spots in your home. That's because fleas will hatch out and jump straight onto your cat where they'll be killed quickly thanks to the flea treatment.

In cases such as these, don't be alarmed if you see fleas on your cat once you've treated them – that's just all the newly arrived fleas that haven't yet been killed by the treatment (most topicals take around 24 hours to get this job done).

Read next: How often to treat cats for fleas and how cats get fleas

Edited by Megan Milstead.

We are famously a nation of dog lovers, but what's a person to do if they're living in a city? Or an apartment without a garden? Or busy juggling the demands of work and parenting with limited time for walkies? For many, one of the smallest dog breeds is the answer. Well suited to a range of environments, smaller dogs often adapt better.

Small dogs are also easier to physically handle and manage, more travel friendly and – in some cases – have lower exercise needs. Many small breeds often outlive their larger peers, plus their smaller size means lower food costs, and potentially less wear and tear on the house too.

If all that appeals to you, we have written about small dog breeds and teapcup breeds, before. But in this article, we have dug into the data to come up with the 10 smallest dog breeds taking into account both weight and height. But we also spoke with a qualified vet, Dr Rebecca MacMillan, on issues to consider when bringing home a small dog.

Smallest dog breeds

Our list below takes into account both height and weight metrics, rather than just looking at one metric and in doing so it highlights some breeds you might not think of.

You might also be surprised to find it doesn’t include some very popular small dogs, such as the shih tzu or French Bulldog, which while compact are generally heavier or taller and therefore pushing them out of the top 10.

1. Chihuahua

Dinky in both weight and height, it's little surprise the Chihuahua nabs top spot. One of the oldest dog breeds dating back to the Aztec civilisations, these tiny dogs are big on personality.

Despite their little stature these dogs can be fearless and are totally devoted to their favourite person. Watch out for jealousy issues! They'll also need regular dental care.

2. Pomeranian

With their adorable fluffy bodies, fox-like face and energetic temperament, the Pomeranian might be small but they have bags of energy. This is because they descended from large sled dogs in the Arctic, but have been bred down to tiny form.

Speaking of, while they're a little heavier than other toy breeds, their teeny height and condense build give them a higher rank overall. Their thick double coat will need plenty of grooming and you'll need to keep them happy with regular exercise.

3. Toy poodle

If you're looking for a pocket size dog that's whip smart, look no further than the toy poodle. Super intelligent and highly trainable, the poodle is considered one of the smartest dog breeds making them naturals at obedience and agility.

While they're slightly taller than their peers, their low weight and slender build puts them firmly in the smallest breed category. But be warned, you'll need to use a professional groomer regularly if you commit to a poodle.

4. Yorkshire Terrier

With their silky coat and confident nature, the Yorkshire Terrier is a true personality dog. Hailing from Yorkshire where they were bred to catch rats this dog doesn't mind a spot of hard work.

However their steel-blue and tan coat does require maintenance and their loud bark can make them useful watchdogs. If you're looking for a fun and feisty small breed, the Yorkie is an excellent option.

5. Maltese

Characterised by their flowing white coat, the Maltese is one of the oldest European toy breeds dating back some 2,000 years. Small dogs get a reputation for having big voices, but Maltese dogs are known for their demure personality and rarely bark.

That stunning coat will require some work to maintain though, including frequent brushing to avoid tangles. If you're looking for a calm companion, the gorgeous and super light Maltese could be for you.

6. Papillon

Known for their butterfly-shaped ears, papillion translates to butterfly in French. Low weight and short height makes this one of the most petite dog breeds despite their leggy appearance, and yet the papillon is not a pure lap dog.

They are incredibly agile and true athletes in dog sports like agility and obedience. Their lively nature positions them as an excellent option for active households looking for a compact but playful dog.

7. Italian Greyhound

A delicate, slender sighthound hallmarked by speed. Surprised by the inclusion of a greyhound? They're often categorised as medium dogs, yet it's a lightweight dog and short in height, despite its long legs.

The Italian Greyhound can reach speeds up to 37 mph, yet once they've been exercised they're gentle creatures who love a sofa snuggle.

8. Brussels Griffon

You'd have to have a heart of stone not to be charmed by the Brussels Griffon's curiously expressive face. Once bred to hunt rats, they were later adopted by nobility and beloved for their unique, wise appearance.

While it might look like a sturdy dog, the compact height and low weight keep it ranked among one of the smallest breeds. The breed can come with rough, smooth or mixed coats, meaning regular grooming can be required.

9. Japanese Chin

Once a companion of Japanese and Chinese royalty, the Japanese Chin is an elegant dog characterised by its expressive face and hallmark gait.

Also known as the Japanese Spaniel, this Asian breed is upbeat, lively and intelligent. Their long, silky coat is beautiful, and will require grooming to uphold.

10. English Toy Spaniel (King Charles Spaniel)

Popular with royalty during the Tudor period, the English Toy Spaniel was a particularly popular companion amongst nobility under the reigns of King Charles I and King Charles II.

Bred for companionship, these dogs are gentle, affectionate lap dogs. While they're actually on the heavier side than similar sized dogs, their short stature keeps them firmly in the smallest combined ranking.

Common health issues with small dogs

Dental disease

“Small breed dogs are susceptible to dental disease. Their small, dainty mouths are prone to excessive tartar build up, gum inflammation and tooth loss. Owners need to be proactive about their small dog’s oral hygiene.

“Daily teeth brushing from an early age is recommended, plus professional veterinary dental procedures, as needed,” says MacMillan.

Knee joint issues

“Patella luxation is a joint condition that is very common in little dogs. The kneecap slides out of position in one or both hind legs, causing limping, pain, and the early onset of arthritis.

“Owners should keep an eye out for changes in their pet’s mobility. A skipping gait or hopping for a few strides can be a sign that something isn’t quite right,” says MacMillan.

Windpipe problems

“Tracheal collapse is often seen in small breeds. In this condition the rings of cartilage holding the trachea [windpipe] open become weakened, leading to collapse of the airway. Affected dogs can have a dry honking cough and breathing issues,” says MacMillan.

How to be proactive

“Owners can be responsible by making sure their small dogs attend routine vet checks and receive all their recommended preventative care. You must also seek help if you spot any issues with your pet, don’t turn a blind eye.

“Pet insurance helps give many owners peace of mind, allowing them to access veterinary care more easily. This is especially useful if their small breed dog needs something like orthopaedic surgery or referral to a specialist for a severely collapsing trachea,” says MacMillan.

Read next: Cutest dog breeds

It can be tempting to make homemade fly spray for horses – it's relatively quick to do, it's easy to find recipes, and can offer savings in comparison to picking up a commercial product.

However, is it safe to do so, and do homemade fly sprays even work to keep flies off from horses? Or is it better to use a pre-manufactured fly spray for horses? Keep reading to find out.

How to make homemade fly spray for horses

Homemade fly spray recipes are typically quite simple. Key components include essential oils, dish soap, and vinegar, but vary from recipe to recipe. Simple recipes are relatively cheap to make, particularly in bulk, so can offer savings over purchasing commercial products designed for horses.

PetsRadar has not tested any of the following recipes and recommend doing a small patch test on your horse. PetsRadar cannot be held responsible for any allergic or other reactions resulting from using these recipes. Readers use these recipes at their own risk.

Recipe 1

This simple recipe from KBIS features only three ingredients, and can be mixed up quickly.

Ingredients:

• 1 tbsp eucalyptus oil (you can also substitute this for other essential oils such as citronella)
• 2 cups of apple cider vinegar
• 1 cup of water

Method:

1. Measure out the ingredients and add to a bottle.
2. Shake well to mix.

Recipe 2

This recipe from a Horse & Hound reader features a mix of ingredients, including popular natural insect repellent citronella.

Ingredients:

• 300ml citronella oil
• 25ml lavender oil
• 4tbsp vinegar
• 6tbsp Dettol
• 2 cups of cold strong tea
• water

Method:

1. Measure out the into a jug and mix well.
2. Pour the mixture into a 2 litre bottle. Top up with water until the bottle is full, and mix again.
3. Decant the mixture into a spray bottle for easy application.

Recipe 3

This recipe from SaddleBox features a variety of essential oils, so will smell more pleasant but may be overpowering for some.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup white vinegar
• 2 cups water
• 1/2 cup spray-on sunscreen
• 50 drops citronella oil
• 25 drops lemongrass essential oil
• 25 drops peppermint essential oil
• 20 drops lavender essential oil
• 2 tbsp Dr Bronner’s liquid soap

Method:

1. Add all the ingredients into a 32oz spray bottle.
2. Shake well to mix.
3. Shake well before each use to ensure the ingredients are still mixed.

Does homemade fly spray for horses actually work?

The two biggest considerations to weigh up when it comes to homemade fly spray are whether it will work, and if it is safe to use on your horse.

"The main issue with homemade fly sprays is that they haven't been tested for efficacy," says Dr Rebecca MacMillan. "We have anecdotal evidence, or hearsay, that these homemade recipes will work. So, it may be a case of trial and error as to whether they are successful for you and your horse."

Whilst many of the recipes are rooted in using natural ingredients, that doesn't always mean they are safe.

"Some horses may react to having things like essential oils applied to them, so it is best to start with a small patch test first if you choose to use them," advises Dr MacMillan. "Essential oils can be toxic in large amounts, so while bugs might not like the smell, it's important to go steady with them on your horse.

"I would also be careful about using cleaning products or dish soaps on your horse, as these are likely to be too harsh on their skin," she cautions.

Homemade fly spray or commercial ones: What's best?

There are many reasons why you might be intrigued by the possibility of making homemade fly spray, is it for the best when there are so many commercial fly spray products available to purchase?

"Natural products don't always mean better, and many homemade formulations only act as mild repellents," cautions Dr MacMillan. "Choosing a commercial product that not only repels the flies but kills them with insecticidal ingredients is usually best.

"I would advise owners to use a commercial fly spray specifically designed for horses. This will give you safe and accurate dosing guidelines, as well as being pre-formulated so that you don't have to make up any liquids accurately yourself," explains Dr MacMillan. "Always speak to your vet for recommendations if you are unsure."

Can you use human fly spray on horses?

Human fly spray can seem like a cheaper and effective alternative to equine products, particularly as many contain the insect repellent DEET. However, this doesn't mean they are appropriate to use on horses.

"I wouldn't recommend using human bug repellents on your horse," advises Dr MacMillan. "Human DEET products have not been formulated with horses in mind. While horses can tolerate DEET, there is always the potential for toxicity, especially if products are applied, or accidentally ingested, in large amounts.

"It is best to use a horse-specific spray and just take care how you use it. DEET is a strong solvent, so it can also dissolve materials such as leather tack," cautions Dr MacMillan.

While there are no banned dog breeds at the federal level in the US, many states have introduced dog ownership laws and breed-specific legislation that can impact owning certain breeds that are considered dangerous.

In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the breeds regularly subjected to breed-specific legislation across the US.

Are banned dogs dangerous?

What makes a dog dangerous? We asked expert vet Dr Lisa Coder.

“While dangerous dogs are a public health threat, many breeds of dogs are assumed to be inherently and automatically dangerous. This is decidedly untrue as no dog is fundamentally dangerous, and aggression and behavior depend on a multitude of factors regarding the dog, the owner, and the environment,” says Dr Coder.

Despite the controversy surrounding this topic, many states have implemented breed-specific legislation. But what exactly is that?

“Most breed-specific legislation is aimed at breeds that are wrongly assumed to be more naturally aggressive, unsafe, or have a genetic predisposition toward unfriendly behaviors,” says Dr Coder. “These laws can vary by state and may require extra registrations, wearing of a muzzle in public, or housing and signage postings. They may even require owners to carry a predetermined amount of liability insurance for the dog or outright prohibit the owning of certain breeds.”

If you’re interested in finding out the most up-to-date information on breed specific legislation, check out the BSL Census, which is continually updated.

Banned dogs in some parts of the US

1. Pit bull

The term pit bull refers to a few different types of dogs descended from bulldog and terrier breeds, including American Pit Bull Terriers, American Staffordshire Terriers, Staffordshire Bull Terriers and dogs of mixed pit bull breeding, such as American Bullies.

Considered a controversial breed due to their background in dog fighting and a number of high profile attacks, these heavily muscled dogs are often subjected to breed specific legislation. Despite their reputation, pit bulls are renowned for their loyalty and affection towards their family.

2. American Staffordshire Terrier

A robust, stocky dog, the AmStaff is whip smart, sure of himself and good natured to boot. They're often real characters around the home, and their love of training makes them brilliant companions.

3. Bull Terrier

A cheeky chappy, the Bull Terrier might at first look quite serious with his peculiar head shape and funny erect ears. But it doesn't take long to see what a goofball this breed can be.

Playful, charming and just a bit stubborn, this loving breed can make for a lovely pet. You'll just need to guarantee early socialisation with other dogs and people, firm but kind training, plenty of exercise and lots of time with you.

4. Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Originally bred for bull and bear baiting, followed by dog fighting, today the Staffie is a beloved pet by many.

Natural comedians, the breed is playful and even sometimes referred to as nanny dogs due to their natural affinity with children. Pick a well bred dog and make sure you socialise them young.

5. American Bulldog

A descendant of the English Bulldog, the American Bulldog is an athletic dog with a fantastic balance of strength, endurance and a pleasant nature. As such, they thrived as the best farm dogs, including as guardians. They make for a loyal, confident canine companion.

6. Bullmastiff

Big and powerful, the bullmastiff was created to guard large estates from poachers. They were bred from an Old English mastiff, which provided a heavy dose of courage, and the English Bulldog for strength and tenacity.

They continue to make excellent natural guard dogs and respond brilliantly to training. While incredibly strong, the bullmastiff is also very sweet with their families.

7. Belgian Malinois

Loyal and clever, the Belgian Malinois also needs a lot of exercise and mental stimulation too, as well as proper training and socialising. Bred as a herding dog, this Belgian breed is also used for assistance, detection, guard, police and search and rescue work.

8. Dogo Argentino

A pack hunting dog bred for tracking down game like wild board and puma, the Dogo Aregentino is a seriously athletic dog. With a built body, strong head and muscular legs, the Dogo is both powerful and agile. They're smart, strong and protective of their family.

9. Doberman Pinscher

If you're looking for one of the best protection dogs, you'd be hard pressed to find a finer dog for the job than the Doberman Pinscher. They are courageous and vigilant, compactly built boasting both muscle and speed. Their stunning coat and characteristic wedge shaped head helps them stand out in the crowd, and will put any intruder immediately off.

10. Cane corso

With a history dating back to the ancient Romans, the name cane corso translates to bodyguard dog. And that's exactly what you'll get with this clever, assertive and highly trainable dog. Often clocking in at more than 100 pounds, and with a seriously hench stature to boot, the corso must be responsibly bred, well trained and socialised from an early age.

11. German Shepherd

One of the best all purpose workers out, the German Shepherd can turn his hand to many tasks, from search and rescue to police and military work. This loyal breed is also unbeatably brave and very sharp. Aloof with strangers, they are gentle within the home and dedicated guardians to those they love.

12. Rottweiler

Believed to have descended from the mastiffs of ancient Rome, Rottweilers are known for their gorgeous wide set eyes, loyalty and energy. You'll need an active lifestyle and plenty of mental stimulation to keep a Rottweiler happy, out of trouble and in good shape.

13. Alaskan Malamute

Looking every bit the sled dog he was bred to be, the Alaskan Malamute is heavy set with powerful shoulders and chest and an all weather coat, which makes them one of the best dogs for cold weather.

While they work hard and need plenty of exercise, they love nothing more than a post-work cuddle with their best humans. A strong dog, they benefit from plenty of training early on.

14. Siberian Husky

Another sled dog, the Siberian Husky is agile and strong, bred to pull light loads over frozen ground. They can be vocal and have plenty of energy, so they need lots of exercise and mental stimulation, as well as plenty of training early on.

15. Presa Canario

Bred for herding cattle, the Presa Canario is also a fine candidate for guard dog. A sturdy build with a deep bark, this confident dog is naturally wary of strangers. Despite that, the breed is well mannered and totally devoted to his family.

16. Akita

Hailing from ancient Japan, the akita has an air of dignity about them. In Japan they are believed to be omens for health, happiness and longevity. Heavy boned, muscly and double-coated, the akita is an impressive dog characterised with its curled over tail and erect ears.

While they are standoffish with strangers and often other animals, they are affectionate and even playful with their favourite people. They must be socialised early on for success as a family pet.

17. Chow chow

With their trademark lion's mane ruff and said to be as clean as cats, the chow chow is a dignified dog dating back to ancient China. They might be aloof with strangers, but they more than make up for it with their favourite people, to whom they are enduringly loyal.

18. Wolf hybrids

A wolf hybrid is created when breeding a domestic dog with a wolf. These dogs can be challenging to keep, as they are partially wild.

They need a specialised diet, can be incredibly shy and wary of new experiences and require a huge amount of exercise. They also have the potential to become aggressive, especially during the reproductive stage of the year when they become more territorial.

Read next: Best guard dog breeds

Looking for a new puppy shopping list? We've rounded up the must-have essentials for you. Preparing for the arrival of a new puppy is super exciting, but it can also be overwhelming trying to decide what supplies you need.

That's why we've put together this list with the help of expert vet, Dr Rebecca MacMillan. It includes everything from leashes to food bowls, and maybe a few things that you hadn't considered like equipment for keeping your pup safe on car journeys.

We've covered everything you need to get to help you and your new pup get started off on the right paw. Let's see what essentials you need to add to your shopping list.

New puppy shopping list

1. Bed

Having a cozy place to sleep is essential. Dr Rebecca MacMillan adds, "Sleep is essential for your puppy’s development, and they need to be able to rest in a comfortable environment."

A dog bed can also offer your pup a place to go if they're feeling anxious or overwhelmed.

Some pet owners also choose to crate train as a place to feel safe.

2. Food

This one goes without saying, but you will need to spend time deciding which food you want to feed your pup. The best puppy food will ensure your dog gets all the nutrients they need to support their growing bodies.

You may also want to stock up on puppy treats. Treats are great for training sessions and are an easy way to improve the relationship with your dog.

3. Bowls

Of course, you will need food and water bowls to serve your dog. Dr MacMillan advises that they should be "sturdy and easy to clean to keep them hygienic".

There are plenty of options to choose from and even smart pet bowls that can make feeding your pooch even easier. These bowls offer automatic feedings and can even weigh food to ensure your dog is getting the right amount.

4. Leash

A leash is a must-have. There are many types of dog leashes, and you'll have to decide on the best dog leash for your pup. It's important to get a solid leash as you'll be spending a lot of time on walks, especially if you have a high-energy breed.

If you want advice on how to train a puppy to walk on a leash, check out our step-by-step guide.

Dr MacMillan also adds, "You will also need to invest in a collar, ID tag, and leash for your new pet. While they won’t be going out for walks until they have completed their primary vaccinations, you can get your puppy used to the sensation of walking equipment in the safety of your home."

5. Grooming

Unless you have a dog that hardly sheds, you should expect to have weekly grooming sessions scheduled. These can be done at home, and all you'll need is a dog brush and something to trim their nails.

When it comes to nail clippers vs grinders, there are pros and cons to both. But with new pups, you may prefer to use grinders as it's easier to avoid cutting too close to the quick. Grinders are also easier for new pet parents to maneuver. But whichever you choose, it's worth checking out our round-ups of the best dog nail clippers and the best nail grinders for pets.

But most importantly, you'll want to be sure that your keeping your pup's teeth clean. with a dog toothbrush. We've got an expert vet approved guide on how to brush a dog's teeth to help.

6. Car safety equipment

"A doggy seatbelt, dog guard, or a secured dog crate will help you and your pet to stay safe on car journeys," says Dr MacMillan.

Dog harnesses are an excellent choice as well. They will ensure your dog doesn't get jostled around in the event of a car accident.

7. Toys

We've saved the best for last. Toys are arguably the most fun item to buy for your pup., but there are a few things to consider when purchasing new ones.

"Make sure to stock up on a few different types, with varying textures and functions. This will keep your puppy mentally stimulated and will help you to work out what their favourite type of play might be," says Dr. MacMillan.

You'll also want to make sure they are made from strong and durable materials that can withstand plenty of puppy chewing. If you're looking for inspiration, check out our guide to the best puppy toys, tried and tested.

Read next: Things I'd wish I'd known before getting a dog and puppy habits you should nip in the bud

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Megan Milstead.

Hydrotherapy for dogs is becoming an increasingly popular form of physical rehabilitation – particularly for dogs recovering from surgery, managing arthritis, or living with long-term mobility issues. As a vet with 14 years of experience, I have seen first-hand how water-based therapy can transform a dog's quality of life.

This form of treatment takes place in specially designed pools or underwater treadmills where dogs can exercise without putting excessive strain on their joints. The buoyancy of water supports the body, allowing for gentle movement and muscle engagement with minimal pain or pressure. It’s not just for poorly pups either – some owners use hydrotherapy to keep their dogs fit and active in a safe, low-impact way.

If you're considering taking the plunge, our guide to the best swimming pools for dogs is a great place to start. But first, let’s dive into the details of hydrotherapy: what it involves, who it’s for, and whether it could help your dog.

What is hydrotherapy for dogs?

Hydrotherapy is a type of physiotherapy that uses the properties of water to support and improve your dog’s musculoskeletal health. Sessions typically take place in a heated pool or underwater treadmill, depending on the dog's individual needs and preferences. The warm water encourages circulation, relaxes muscles, and allows for pain-free movement, even in dogs with significant joint stiffness or muscle weakness.

The frequency of hydrotherapy sessions can vary based on the condition being treated. For dogs recovering from surgery or injury, I often recommend starting with one to two sessions per week. Chronic conditions like arthritis may benefit from a similar frequency in the long-term. As your dog builds strength and comfort, your therapist might gradually reduce the number of sessions or adjust the treatment plan.

Hydrotherapy is particularly useful in managing conditions such as elbow or hip dysplasia, cruciate ligament disease, degenerative myelopathy, spinal injuries, and post-operative rehabilitation. It’s also commonly used to aid weight loss and improve overall fitness in overweight or elderly dogs.

Benefits of hydrotherapy for dogs

Hydrotherapy can provide a wide range of benefits for dogs, including:

• Reduced joint pain and inflammation
• Improved joint mobility and flexibility
• Increased muscle mass and strength
• Faster recovery from injury or surgery
• Enhanced cardiovascular fitness
• Support with weight management
• Improved mental wellbeing and confidence in anxious or nervous dogs

Hydrotherapy isn’t just physically beneficial; there are many ways dogs can benefit from swimming. It often gives dogs a new lease of life, boosting their mood and willingness to exercise.

Side effects of hydrotherapy for dogs

Although hydrotherapy is generally very safe when carried out by a qualified therapist, it isn’t entirely without risk. Potential side effects or concerns include:

• Muscle soreness: Particularly after early sessions, as the body adjusts to new types of movement
• Fatigue: Especially in unfit or elderly dogs, it’s important to allow for rest afterwards
• Skin infections or ear problems: If proper hygiene isn’t maintained, or water enters the ears
• Agitation or anxiety: Some dogs may initially be fearful of water, although this often improves over time

A full veterinary assessment should always be completed before starting hydrotherapy to ensure it’s suitable and safe for your individual dog.

How effective is hydrotherapy for dogs with arthritis?

Arthritis is one of the most common conditions I treat in senior dogs, and hydrotherapy has become a really useful tool in managing it. It’s gentle yet effective, allowing arthritic dogs to stay mobile and maintain muscle tone without worsening joint pain.

In fact, many arthritic dogs struggle with regular land-based exercise, which can leave them in a frustrating cycle of stiffness and inactivity. Hydrotherapy can help to break this cycle. The buoyancy of the water supports their weight, reducing the impact on inflamed joints, while the warmth soothes discomfort and improves circulation.

When used as part of a broader management plan – which may include medication, joint supplements, and lifestyle adjustments – hydrotherapy can significantly slow the progression of arthritis and improve quality of life. I frequently recommend it for my arthritic patients, especially those who are beginning to show signs of weakness or reluctance to move.

How expensive is hydrotherapy for dogs?

The cost of hydrotherapy can vary depending on your location, the facility, and the type of treatment (pool versus treadmill). As a rough guide:

US: You can expect to pay around $40–100 per session, with similar discounts often available for multiple bookings.

UK: Sessions typically range from £30–60 each. Some centres offer discounted packages if you book a block of sessions in advance.

Prices may be higher if your dog needs one-on-one support from a therapist, or if they require a more intensive rehabilitation program. Always check that the hydrotherapist is fully qualified and works under veterinary referral –this ensures your dog receives safe, evidence-based treatment.

It’s also worth speaking to your pet insurance provider. Some policies will cover the cost of hydrotherapy if it’s recommended by your vet as part of a treatment plan.

Hydrotherapy for dogs is a versatile and highly effective treatment that can support dogs of all ages and abilities. Whether your dog is recovering from surgery, living with arthritis, or just needs a low-impact way to exercise, hydrotherapy can offer real and lasting benefits.

As a vet, I’ve been genuinely impressed by how much this therapy can achieve. If you think your dog could benefit, speak to your vet about getting a referral; they will always be happy to help.

Read next: Dog breeds that love swimming and signs a dog is in pain

Edited by Megan Milstead.

What kills dog fleas instantly? This is one of the questions I’m asked most often as a vet, usually with a touch of panic! After 14 years of treating dogs of all breeds and sizes, I’m no stranger to the dreaded flea. They are far more than a minor nuisance – they cause intense discomfort, can trigger allergic reactions, and in some cases, spread parasites or even serious diseases.

Fleas can multiply astonishingly quickly, which is why it’s so important to act fast the moment you realize your dog may have them. While long-term prevention is essential (and we’ll come to that), there are several safe and highly effective ways to kill fleas instantly once they’re already on your dog. It is very important that all dog owners know how to get rid of fleas.

In this guide, I’ll break down the best fast-acting treatments, how to tell if your dog has fleas in the first place, and how to prevent another infestation. If you’re considering your medication options, don’t miss our best flea treatment for dogs guide, which is packed with vet-approved recommendations.

What kills dog fleas instantly?

If your goal is to kill fleas on your dog as quickly as possible, here are the most effective treatments we use in practice and recommend for home use. These options are fast-acting, clinically proven, and safe when used correctly.

1. Prescription oral flea tablets

Speed: Kills fleas within 30 minutes to four hours

This is my go-to in urgent cases. Products like Capstar (nitenpyram) are fast-acting oral flea treatments that start killing adult fleas almost immediately. They work by interfering with the flea’s nervous system, leading to rapid death.

It needs to be prescribed for the correct dose based on your dog’s weight. It needs to be used in combination with a longer-term treatment, since it only kills adult fleas present at the time – it doesn’t offer ongoing protection.

2. Fast-acting topical spot-ons

Speed: Kills fleas within 12–24 hours

Products like Advantage (imidacloprid) and Frontline (fipronil) kill fleas through contact – meaning the flea doesn’t have to bite the dog to die. They’re applied to the skin between the shoulder blades and spread across the body via natural oils in the skin.

The product is applied to clean, dry skin and you must avoid bathing your dog for at least 48 hours before and after application. Always read the label and use products specifically formulated for dogs under veterinary instruction.

3. Flea-killing shampoos

Speed: Immediate effect during use

Medicated flea shampoos can kill adult fleas on contact. They’re ideal in severe infestations when you want to physically remove a large number of fleas quickly. They must be used with caution, as they will only kill adult fleas.

If your dog has a flea infestation, prescription medication, and professional guidance are required, and they should never be used on their own. To use the shampoo, lather your dog thoroughly, working the shampoo down to the skin.

Leave it on for the recommended time (usually five to 10 minutes), then rinse well. Always follow up with a long-term flea control method from your vet.

4. Flea combs

Speed: Instant physical removal, but does not kill all fleas present or address other stages of the flea life cycle

A fine-toothed flea comb can be used to trap and remove adult fleas manually (similar to how nits are removed in humans). Comb slowly through the fur, especially around the neck, back, tail base, and groin. It’s important to note this is not a stand-alone treatment, but it is useful as a supplement to chemical control.

Signs your dog has fleas

Many owners assume fleas are easy to spot, but they can be incredibly sneaky. Here are the most common signs your dog might be dealing with fleas:

• Excessive scratching, biting, or licking: This happens especially around the tail, belly, or inner thighs
• Flea dirt: Small black specks (flea feces) that look like ground pepper; if you put them on a wet paper towel, they’ll turn reddish-brown
• Hair loss or thinning patches: This is often from self-trauma
• Scabs or red, inflamed skin: This can be caused by flea allergy dermatitis
• Live fleas: You might spot one crawling, particularly around the neck, tail base, or belly
• Restlessness or irritability: Some dogs become more unsettled due to constant itching
• Pale gums: In severe infestations, fleas can cause anemia, particularly in puppies or small breeds

If in doubt, part the fur and look closely near the skin – or use a flea comb. Just be aware, fleas move fast, so a quick visual check often misses them.

How to prevent fleas

Once you've dealt with the current infestation, it's essential to prevent fleas from coming back. Here’s what I recommend to my clients:

1. Use a monthly flea preventative: Choose a prescription or vet-recommended product that offers long-term protection. This includes spot-on treatments and oral medications. Consistency is key – don’t skip doses!
2. Treat all pets in the household: Even if one dog shows signs, every pet in the home, including cats, must be treated. Fleas can jump from one animal to another and thrive undetected.
3. Clean the environment thoroughly: Only about 5% of the flea population lives on your pet. The other 95% is in your home – as eggs, larvae, and pupae in carpets, bedding, and cracks in the floor.
   1. Wash all bedding on a hot cycle
   2. Vacuum daily (especially edges and upholstery)
   3. Use an environmental spray that contains an insect growth regulator (like this one from Amazon) to prevent flea eggs from hatching
4. Use flea preventatives year-round: Fleas are not just a summer problem. Central heating keeps them active in winter, so it’s crucial to maintain protection all year round – not just during warmer months.
5. Check your dog regularly: Regular grooming and use of a flea comb can help you catch any early signs of re-infestation. Early detection makes management far easier.

So, what kills dog fleas instantly? The answer depends on your dog’s needs, the severity of the infestation, and your long-term flea control plan.

Fast-acting oral medications like nitenpyram, topical spot-ons, or flea shampoos can provide immediate relief, but they should always be used as part of a wider strategy – including environment control and monthly preventatives.

As a vet, I can’t stress enough how much prevention is easier than treatment. With the right combination of fast actions, consistent prevention, and regular checks, you can keep your dog and your home flea-free all year long.

Read next: Safest flea treatment for dogs and flea medicine vs collars

Edited by Megan Milstead.

As a vet and lifelong cat lover, I’ve had my fair share of puzzling consults, but one question that pops up more often than you’d think is: Why is my cat eating litter? It’s certainly not the most appetizing snack, but there are several reasons why cats may show interest in consuming the best cat litter – and many of them may need to be addressed promptly.

In some cases, litter eating can be a harmless exploratory behavior, especially in kittens. But for adult cats, it’s more likely to point to a nutritional deficiency, stress, or even an underlying medical condition like anemia or gastrointestinal disease. It's important for pet parents to understand the “why” behind this odd behavior – and know when it’s time to call the vet.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the most common causes, potential health risks, and practical ways to stop your feline from snacking on something they really shouldn’t be.

Why is my cat eating litter?

If your cat is eating litter, there are several possible explanations. Some are relatively harmless, while others can be a red flag for something more serious. Here’s what might be going on:

1. Curiosity or exploratory behavior: Kittens, in particular, use their mouths to explore the world, much like human babies. It’s not uncommon for them to nibble at their litter as part of this phase. Usually, they grow out of it once they understand it’s not food.

2. Anemia: One of the more serious causes of litter eating is anemia. When a cat has low levels of red blood cells, they can display unusual behaviors, including eating non-food items – a condition known as pica. If your cat is lethargic, has pale gums, and is showing a sudden interest in eating litter, get them checked out promptly.

3. Nutritional deficiencies: Cats who are missing essential nutrients in their diet, especially minerals like iron, may turn to litter in an attempt to compensate. This is more likely if your cat is on a poorly balanced homemade diet or a low-quality commercial food.

4. Stress or anxiety: Behavioral issues can also be a cause. Stress and anxiety from a recent move, new pets in the home, or changes to their routine may cause some cats to develop compulsive behaviors, including eating litter. Environmental enrichment and routine are key here.

5. Underlying medical conditions: Sometimes, cats with gastrointestinal disorders, chronic kidney disease, or even diabetes may start exhibiting unusual eating habits. It’s important to rule out any medical causes, especially if this is new behavior in an adult cat.

6. Inappropriate litter type: Some types of cat litter are made from materials that actually smell or taste vaguely edible, such as corn, wheat, or walnut-based litters. While these are often marketed as eco-friendly, some cats may mistake them for food.

What happens if my cat eats litter?

Whether your cat eats litter once or repeatedly, there may be health consequences, and some are serious. Clumping clay litter is particularly risky, as it can expand and cause blockages in the intestines, leading to vomiting, constipation, or even life-threatening obstruction. Silica-based litters can cause irritation or dehydration, while natural litters may ferment in the gut.

Even small amounts ingested over time can build up and cause chronic GI issues. If you see your cat eating litter regularly or showing signs like vomiting, lethargy, not eating, or changes in bowel movements, it’s time to visit your vet. A simple blood test can rule out anemia, and your vet may recommend diet changes or imaging to check for blockages.

How do you stop your cat from eating cat litter?

Here are some practical steps you can take to help stop your cat from eating their litter:

1. Rule out medical issues first: Always start with a vet check to exclude anemia, nutritional deficiencies, or underlying illnesses.
2. Switch to a safer litter: Consider changing to a non-clumping, unscented, or paper-based litter that won’t cause harm if ingested.
3. Improve your cat’s diet: Make sure your cat is eating a complete and balanced diet suitable for their life stage. Your vet can help with this, and there is a lot of information available on the best cat foods to choose.
4. Provide enrichment: Offer plenty of toys, puzzles, and playtime to reduce boredom and redirect oral behaviors.
5. Address stress: Learn how to identify the signs of stress in cats and how to help them. You can use feline pheromone diffusers, make sure you provide safe hiding spots, and stick to a predictable routine to help them out.
6. Clean the litter box regularly: Keep the tray clean and fresh so your cat isn’t put off using it properly – a clean environment reduces behavioral stress. We have a helpful guide on how (and how often) to clean a litter box,

So, why is your cat eating litter? The answer could range from innocent kitten curiosity to a more serious medical condition. While the behavior can be alarming, staying calm and proactive is key. Always start by consulting your vet, rule out health concerns, and make practical changes to your cat’s litter and environment.

With the right care and a little detective work, you can help your cat kick the habit –and keep their litter tray strictly for business, not snacks.

Read next: How to get a cat use to a litter box and whether you can use sand as cat litter

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Keeping flies off horses is a worry that plagues many horse owners in the warmer months. No horse enjoys being bothered by flies, and while they are mostly a nuisance, they can also present health risks. It’s important to be aware of these risks, and the best strategies to protect your horse from flies.

There are plenty of ways to do this, from gear such as the best fly sheets and fly masks to products like the best fly repellent sprays and creams, but what’s right for you and your horse?

Most owners find a combination of strategies helpful – keep reading to find out more about each one to decide what would best suit you.

How to keep flies off horses

There are plenty of different ways to keep flies off horses, with pros and cons to each. Here are the six best strategies:

1. Fly spray

Fly spray, also known as fly repellent, is an insect spray that can be applied to the horse’s body to deter flies from landing on them. The best fly sprays for horses are the ones designed for them; it’s best not to use insecticides that haven’t been developed with horses in mind, as these may contain irritants. Fly sprays are the most popular choice for to keep flies off horses.

Advantages of fly sprays

✅ they are quick and easy to apply
✅ they can be cheap to purchase
✅ there are many available, and the variety of formulas and ingredients means you can find one that will work for your horse and environment with the type of flies present

Disadvantages of fly sprays

❌ they can carry a strong smell and the ingredients can be irritating for horses and owners sensitive skin
❌ some will wear off during the day, so top-ups may be required, particularly on hot days if your horse is sweating
❌ some horses don’t like the sensation of being sprayed or misted either. It’s possible to teach your horse to stand for fly spray, but this can be a lengthy process until they are completely comfortable, and even then, they may be reluctant to have certain parts of their body sprayed, such as their face or under their belly.

2. Fly gels and creams

A great alternative to fly sprays, fly gels or creams are applied by hand or sponge to the horse’s body.

Advantages of fly gels and creams

✅ they are good for horse’s who are ticklish or dislike fly spray being applied
✅ they are great for targeted application, such as to the face or between the legs
✅ the consistency of the product often means it has a longer adherence, so can last the whole day – however, reapplication may be required, as with fly spray, when it’s hot
✅ some products are colored so it’s easy to see where they’ve been applied

Disadvantages of fly gels and creams

❌ they can be more expensive
❌ they are easy to over-apply as your horse doesn’t need to be covered in the same way as fly spray for the same level of protection
❌ they can be time consuming and harder to apply if you don’t opt for a roll-on or sponge-on option

3. Fly sheets

Fly sheets are lightweight, often mesh, blankets worn by horses to protect their body from flies. This piece of gear is often a staple in a horse’s wardrobe, and advances in design and technology means that the best fly sheets for horses often come with more features than simple fly protection.

Advantages of fly sheets

✅ they provide all-day protection that isn’t going anywhere
✅ they don’t contain chemicals or irritants
✅ white fly sheets can help reflect heat
✅ they can offer various levels of protection as required – those designed for sweet itch offer full body protection, including belly bands and neck covers that can even go over the ears
✅ they also offer UV protection

Disadvantages of fly sheets

❌ it’s important to ensure the correct fit to prevent any rubbing or sores, particularly on sensitive horses
❌ they are not comfortable for horses to wear in the rain, although you can purchase waterproof fly sheets for changeable weather

4. Fly masks

Fly masks are worn to protect the horse’s face. They come in a variety of styles and coverage options so you can select the best fly mask for your horse. The primary goal is to offer eye protection, as flies like to congregate around the eye.

Advantages of fly masks

✅ many now also offer UV protection, which is a must-have for horse owners concerned about eye health or have horses prone to uveitis
✅ you can get masks with or without ear covers and nose covers to suit your horse
✅ you can get masks that are pull-on or secured with Velcro that will help with putting on and taking off more easily
✅ Lycra style masks can be worn under halters and muzzles

Disadvantages of fly masks

❌ fly masks need to be properly fitted, or they could rub or irritate your horse
❌ some horses like to remove them

5. Fly boots

Fly boots protect the lower leg from fly irritation. They can be a great option if your horse stomps a lot when irritated by flies, as repetitive stomping can strain the legs.

It’s important that these are fitted correctly so they don’t rub or slip during wear, and monitor use on hot days where the leg could become overheated. The best fly boots for horses are often made with ventilated or breathable materials, opposed to protective materials like brushing boots made for exercise.

6. Things for the stable

Stables can become a hub of insect activity, but this can be mitigated to make both yours and your horse’s time in the stables more comfortable.

Fly traps and sticky paper

These catch flies, and need to be disposed of and replaced semi-regularly. When selecting a fly trap to go in a stable, only use a sticky or baited trap (like this one on Amazon), not an electric trap, and make sure it’s hung safely away from the horse.

Fans

Flies struggle to land in moving air, so a breeze can help to deter them, as well as having the added bonus of keeping you and your horse cool! You can buy rechargeable ones that clip up in stables that can also be used while transporting (like this one).

Mesh screens or fringe curtains

Where possible, put up fringe curtains or mesh screens (like this one on Amazon) on windows and doors. This blocks flies from entering areas, while still allowing for airflow. Fringe curtains are an option for stable doors if your horse is particularly bothered by flies, as it allows them to still look out; however, they must be trained and desensitised to use these safely.

Stable management shouldn’t be overlooked when it comes to controlling fly populations. Muck out daily or twice daily, depending on how much time your horse spends stabled, to remove manure and wet bedding. Position your muck heap away from your stables, as flies breed in manure. You should also use covered bins to store feed and clean water buckets or troughs regularly to avoid attracting insects.

Why it's important to keep flies off horses

Whilst in most cases, flies are just irritating pests, they can also cause health problems.

There are two main categories of flies: biting flies and non-biting flies. Biting flies feed on animal blood, while non-biting flies feed on bodily secretions, such as saliva, tears or mucus.

“Flies, gnats, mosquitoes, and other biting insects are more than just annoying for your horses; they can cause and carry many diseases, some of which can be very serious or even fatal,” says vet Dr Lisa Coder.

1. Potomac horse fever

“If your horse lives near water, several insects such as mayflies, caddisflies, and damselflies can carry potomac horse fever,” says Dr Coder. “This disease can cause colic, abortions in pregnant mares, and diarrhea, which, if left untreated, may be fatal.”

2. Pigeon fever

“Another serious disease that can be spread by many types of flies is pigeon fever, or dryland distemper, which usually causes large abscesses to form. The bacteria is found in the soil and can be picked up by flies and transmitted to your horse,” explains Dr Coder.

“Frequently, the effects are external, but multiple internal abscesses or even inflammation of the intestines can occur. Horses often have high fevers, go off feed, or even present with lameness.”

3. Equine infectious anemia

“Deer flies and horse flies can transmit equine infectious anemia [EIA], which is a fatal disease for many horses. It has no treatment or vaccine,” says Dr Coder. “It can cause fever, weight loss, icterus [yellowing of body tissues], anemia, swelling in the limbs, and weakness, but often shows no signs until the disease has progressed to a deadly stage.”

4. Vesicular stomatitis

“Vesicular stomatitis is a disease of the mouth, tongue, coronary band, and mucous membranes. The virus is often carried by biting flies such as biting midges, sand flies, or black flies. Biting flies can also cause blisters, sores, and pain in the affected areas,” says Dr Coder. “Horses affected by vesicular stomatitis must be strictly quarantined, as the fluid in the blisters is highly contagious once they break open.

“Although rarely fatal, horses may have high fevers, lameness, and go off feed or water.”

5. Summer sores

“Summer sores are caused by the larvae of the Habronema worm [stomach worm], which are carried and transmitted by stable flies and house flies,” says Dr Coder.

“Summer sores are commonly large, non-healing wounds that can be difficult to treat. These can occur anywhere on your horse, but are most commonly found near the mouth, eyes, or genital area. Deworming can control the larvae, but the sores are usually slow to heal and extremely itchy.”

6. Fly strike

Also known as myiasis, fly strike occurs when fly larvae (maggots) grow inside the host, usually the skin, and feed on the tissue as they develop. Horses are typically at risk of this when they have an open cut or wound that flies can reach to lay eggs in.

Clinical signs include lethargy, a bad smell, and noticing a wound or skin appearing to move as the maggots move under the skin; don’t forget to check your horse's legs and sheath. If you are concerned your horse has fly strike, you should call your vet immediately; the wound will need to be cleaned, the maggots removed, and antibiotics may be required.

7. Other conditions

“Many other flies can cause dermatitis, itching, hair loss, or even lead to more severe allergies when horses are chronically exposed,” says Dr Coder.

“Keeping flies off of horses will lead to prevention of mild to serious diseases as well as decrease stress and increase comfort for your horse.”

Cats love nothing more than basking in the sun, but unfortunately, they can still overheat. While they are generally less prone to heatstroke than dogs, it's still important to be aware of the signs and put preventative measures in place.

Below, you'll find five easy ways to keep your cat cool in the summer, recommended by Dr Joanna Woodnutt, who has nine years of experience as a qualified vet. While these are great steps to help prevent overheating, you'll need to take further action if your cat shows signs of heat exhaustion or heatstroke.

It can be helpful to invest in products like pet cooling mats that significantly reduce your cat's body temperature, but that doesn't mean you have to spend a fortune – many of these ideas use things you already have around the house.

How to cool down your cat

1. Ice cubes

One of the easiest ways to cool down your cat is by putting a few ice cubes in their water bowl (which will also encourage them to drink and paw at them out of curiosity). You'll save money in the long run by making your own using molds – just remember to fill them up the night before the heatwave hits!

2. Freeze cat treats

If you're struggling to get your cat to touch their water bowl, you could freeze their treats for a little extra encouragement. This only works with purée-style snacks, and it's worth double-checking whether they're suitable for freezing before offering them to your feline.

3. Make frozen treats

If your regular treats aren't freezable, and you don't fancy splashing out on any new ones, you could always make some homemade popsicles using ingredients you already have in your cupboards. Mix drained tuna (in spring water, not brine) with a splash of water in a tray or mold, freeze, and serve!

4. Cooling mat

While you should never wrap your pet in a wet towel, you could offer a frozen one on the floor that they might like to lie on – or, even better, use a pet-specific cooling mat.

5. Use a fan

If you don’t have air conditioning at home, using a fan is a great alternative. You don't need to splash out on a standing one either – I've seen some budget-friendly handheld models for under $10 on Amazon, which work great for humans too. Your cat probably won't appreciate a strong gust of wind in their face, so start at a distance to help them get used to the sound and sensation.

Signs your cat is too hot

If your cat has heat exhaustion, they might show the following signs:

• Lethargy
• Drinking more
• Hiding away
• Seeking shade/cool areas

In this situation, you need to try to cool them down before it develops into heatstroke. If your cat has heatstroke, they might show these signs:

• Glazed
• Wobbly
• Vomiting
• Seizures
• Panting
• Drooling
• Sweaty feet
• Diarrhea

This is an emergency, and you will need to soak their fur thoroughly with water, keep them in a cool room next to a fan or air conditioning, and call your vet to let them know you're on the way.

Read next: Dehydration in cats and what cats should drink

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you have an indoor cat but still want them to experience the great outdoors to some degree, then setting up a catio is a brilliant idea that offers them the best of both worlds.

A catio – a combination of the words cat and patio – is an enclosed outdoor space where your feline can roam around safely. These are usually extended onto the side of your home or built on a section of a balcony, and are connected via a cat tunnel or a special door. You might also want to consider one of the best outdoor cat enclosures, which stand separately in your yard.

If you're new to the world of catios and need some inspiration on what to put inside (and where you can buy them in the first place), we've created a checklist for you to follow below – and asked vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan for her top tips.

Where can I buy a catio?

While many pet parents choose to build a catio themselves, you can also buy one pre-made if you don't fancy a new DIY project. When it comes to choosing your catio, you'll want to ensure it's made from sturdy, weatherproof materials and features a secure latch and ground base to prevent any escapes.

What should I put inside my catio?

1. Grass

Whether it's a carpet of grass or a planter, your cat will appreciate having a bit of greenery in their catio for sniffing, lying on, or chewing.

2. Bed

A catio should be a safe haven for your feline to relax and unwind, so having one of the best cat beds inside is a no-brainer – or you might even decide to install a cat hammock if they prefer to perch up high. When it gets cold in the winter, we recommend placing a heated pet pad (like this one from Amazon) on of their ledges.

3. Scratching pad

Scratching pads are essential for keeping your cat's claws in tip-top condition and releasing pent-up stress, so it makes sense to have some in their new little space. While you won't be able to fit a full-sized scratching post, you can buy pads that stick to the wall and won't take up any room at all.

4. Toys

Since your catio is limited on space (and the last thing you want is to clutter it with loads of stuff), you'll need to be clever when it comes to choosing the best cat toys. We'd recommend a hanging spring they can paw at from the ground, or a puzzle feeder (like this one from Amazon) that won't take up much room.

5. Water bowl or fountain

Whether your cat is basking in the sun or jumping between perches, they'll need access to fresh water to stay hydrated – so be sure to include a bowl inside their catio if you have enough room. If space permits, you might want to use one of the best pet water fountains to ensure it always stays clean and filtered.

6. Climbing structures

While most large catios come with built-in climbing structures, you might need to add these in yourself – they’re great for encouraging exercise and exploration.

Catio tips

Here are some of our top tips for installing a catio, including advice from Dr MacMillan:

✅Give your feline friend as much usable space as possible
✅Put a chair inside if you can
✅Choose a sturdy, high-quality catio
✅Choose a level foundation to put it on
✅Ensure it's escape-proof and predator-proof
✅Provide your cat with both shade and sunny spots
✅Make it accessible to enter and exit
✅ Check regulations before building

Read next: Best outdoor cat houses or creative catio ideas

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you've just welcomed a new feathered friend into your life and are looking for ways to bond with your bird, you'll find so many wonderful tips in this guide.

Birds make fantastic companions, but just like us, they all have their own unique personality so some may forge an instant connection with you while others may take time to warm up.

When it comes to our top tips for taking care of pet birds, nurturing the relationship you share with them is high on the list. Depending on where you get your beaked buddy from, they may have had previous experiences that have left them shy or even fearful of humans. But rest assured, with a little love and care, you can develop a fulfilling and meaningful relationship with your pet.

Below, we share a range of ways to bond with your pet bird. Oh, and spoiler alert: number 16 is our absolute favorite!

Ways to bond with your bird

1. Spend time near their cage

While it may seem simple, one of the best things you can do to start to build a bond with your bird is to sit by their cage. Once you've invested in the best bird cage, place the cage in a frequently used room so your bird can get used to your presence.

Spend time each day sitting near their cage. You might place a chair right beside or sit across the room and quietly read a book. Practice doing this each day at various times so they get used to you coming and going. Once they're comfortable with your presence (they're vocalizing and appear curious), you can open the cage door and start to interact with them in a closer way.

2. Handle them gently

Once your bird is used to your presence and seems comfortable having you nearby, you can start to introduce some gentle physical contact. Being able to handle your bird is important, as not only does it deepen the bond you share, but there may be times where you want to groom them or inspect them for injuries – having them trust you enough to let you handle them will make the job a whole lot easier!

Start by gently stroking their head or neck, these are the two areas that birds typically enjoy having touched. Take care to avoid any areas below the neck as touching their back or feathers can stimulate their hormones and lead to unwanted breeding behaviors. Once you've earned your bird's trust, you can work up to other forms of physical contact, such as encouraging them to perch on your arm or shoulder.

3. Speak in a soft and gentle voice

When interacting with your pet bird, it's generally best to speak to them in a soft and calm voice. Birds are sensitive to loud noises, and using a quiet tone of voice helps to create a soothing environment for them. Not only that, but a gentle voice can strengthen your bond by ensuring your bird sees you as a trustworthy friend.

4. Play with your bird

One of the most effective ways to bond with your pet bird is to spend time playing with them. Offering your feathered friend lots of mental and physical stimulation with the best toys for birds can be a fantastic way to build a friendship built on fun, safety, and trust.

Pop lots of different toys in their habitat, but also leave their cage door open so that they have the whole room to use. Giving your bird lots of enrichment opportunities can ward off boredom and help prevent destructive behaviors.

5. Offer them treats

There are plenty of nutritious things birds can eat other than bird food – such as apples, bananas, and hard-boiled eggs, to name a few! Nothing will make a bird view you as their favorite person more than offering them a tasty treat, just be sure to keep their diet healthy and balanced to prevent weight gain.

6. Train them

Did you know that you can train your feathered friend? It's true! Birds are highly intelligent, and because they love mental and physical stimulation, most are very responsive to training. From teaching them to perform tricks to getting them to repeat different words, you'll find training your bird isn't just great for strengthening your bond, it's incredibly fun, too.

7. Give hand feeding a go

Hand feeding can be a great way to build trust with your bird and help them see you as a safe and friendly presence in their life. First, you'll want to choose what you're going to feed them – their favorite seed mix or small pieces of fruit and vegetables can be a great choice.

To begin with, try offering these treats through the bars of your bird's cage. This can be a good way to help establish a rapport with birds who may be shy or lacking in confidence. If they seem happy to take food through the bars, you can try opening the cage door and resting the food in your palm. Don't force any interactions and instead let your feathered friend come to you.

8. Avoid loud noises

Most pet birds are not fond of loud noises. While you don't have to keep your feathered friend shut away in a completely silent room, constant, loud sounds are stressful for birds and can result in chronic stress and even behavioral problems.

It's worth noting that consistent, predictable sounds (like the sound of you chatting, the TV on at a normal volume, and comings and goings in your home) are fine for birds, and they tend to adapt well to these. However, you'll want to avoid playing very loud music or having too much hustle and bustle around your bird.

9. Don't force interactions

While it can be tempting to try to fast-track the relationship you have with your beaked buddy, never force them to interact with you. As with any person or other animal in your life, it's important to respect your bird's boundaries. Always go at your bird's pace and let them come to you – starting small is the key to building trust.

10. Share a meal with your bird

Bonded birds in the wild will often share food with one another as a way of strengthening their relationship, so why not sit down to dinner with your feathered friend? Sharing food that's safe and non-toxic to birds is a great way to get your beaked buddy to see you as part of their flock.

11. Groom them

Grooming your bird can be a wonderful way to bond with them, as this mimics the natural behavior they'd engage in with their own flock if they were in the wild. Grooming needs to be done very gently and only if your bird agrees to it.

You can start by giving them a little head scratch and seeing how they respond. If they seem happy with that, you could try removing any loose feathers that you can see before working your way up to trimming their nails. Take it slowly and use lots of positive reinforcement in the form of treats and praise.

12. Socialize with your bird

Birds are incredibly smart creatures, and they remember the interactions they have with humans – both the good and the bad. Spending time hanging out with your beaked buddy is an important part of building a bond with them, and it's especially crucial if you've rescued them from a shelter.

Birds that have had negative experiences with previous owners can be nervous around people, so letting them be in your presence in a calm and gentle way can help them to rebuild broken trust. Sit with your bird and talk to them, they will absolutely be able to sense your kind energy, and gradually, your feathered friend will begin to feel safe enough that you can increase the amount of time you spend with them.

13. Use verbal praise

Offering your pet lots of positive verbal praise is a great way to encourage desirable behaviors. Every time your bird does something you like or want to see more of, such as eating out of your hand, letting you pet them, or perching on your arm, reward them by saying things like “good bird” or “I love you”. This will help your bird associate your voice and presence with positive experiences.

14. Get to know your bird

One of the best ways to bond with your bird is to really get to know and understand them. Observe their behavior, body language, and vocalizations. Is your new beaked buddy loud and extroverted, or are they quiet and reserved? Do they seem confident straight out of the gate, or do you notice they appear anxious or nervous?

Just like each human is unique, so too is each bird. Learning all about your feathered friend, including their individual preferences, likes, and dislikes, will help you meet their needs and build trust.

15. Sing to them

Communication is a big part of all relationships, including the ones we share with our pets. Birds are naturally social and talkative creatures who love to vocalize, and in the wild, they'll often use various whistles and song-type sounds to stay connected to their flock.

When you sing to your bird, you're literally speaking their language, and this can be a wonderful way to help them feel deeply bonded to you. Bonus points if you use a calm and gentle tone, as most birds find this deeply soothing.

16. Dance with your bird

We know, it sounds odd, but many birds respond really well to music and love to have a bit of a dance. Dancing with your feather friend can be such a fun way to bond, and you may just find your beaked buddy copies your moves! Select some upbeat, rhythmic music and start by bobbing your head about – it's highly likely your pet will soon join in.

17. Avoid intense eye contact

Just like cats and dogs, birds dislike prolonged and intense eye contact because, in the wild, it makes them feel like prey that's about to be attacked. Staring at your bird may cause them to feel stressed, anxious, or fearful, so be sure to avoid direct eye contact and use sideways glances instead. This will help your feathered friend to feel safe, relaxed, and comfortable in your presence.

18. Get to know their body language

Understanding your bird's body language is key to building a strong relationship with them. Birds are very expressive creatures, and by observing their body language, you can get an idea of how they're feeling and what they might need from you.

One thing to pay attention to is head bobbing. If your bird is bobbing their head, that's a great sign they're excited to see you and want to engage. Gently wagging their tail or shaking it from side to side can also be a friendly gesture. On the other hand, biting or nipping may signal that your feathered friend is feeling overstimulated.

19. Let them fly

Keeping your bird in a cage for long periods of time can leave them feeling bored and frustrated. To prevent unwanted behaviors from developing and to help build a strong bond with them, be sure to let your beaked buddy have at least six hours a day to fly freely indoors.

Try to make as much of this interactive time between the two of you, even if it's something as simple as watching TV together or sharing a meal. Letting your bird be a part of your day-to-day life will help your friendship blossom.

20. Be patient

Just like human relationships, the relationships we share with our pets take time to build – and birds are no different. Your beaked buddy will need time to get used to you and their new environment, so moving slowly and being patient and consistent is key to ensuring you get off to a good start.

Read next: 32 types of pet birds

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you’re thinking about bringing home a dog to your family, your decision may be influenced by their prey drive. Prey drive essentially refers to a dog's instinctual urge to chase down prey, usually small animals. While dog breeds with high prey drive can make wonderful pets, and can be trained, for obvious reasons they aren’t always a good fit in certain home circumstances.

Homes with young children, other small animals or inexperienced owners may benefit from bringing home a dog with lower prey drive for many reasons. For expert insight on this topic, we spoke with Dr Rebecca MacMillan, a qualified vet with more than 15 years of experience.

Benefits of dogs with low prey drive

Calmer

If you’re looking for a calm dog breed who's going to be a laid-back member of the family – once puppyhood is out of the way – then a low prey drive breed will suit you best.

“Low prey drive dogs are less likely to chase after small animals and tend to be more even-tempered with other dogs. This reduces the risk that the dog will run off or become involved in an accident,” says Dr MacMillan.

Trainable

If you find the idea of training your new best friend daunting, stick with a low prey breed for a less intimidating start.

“Training is generally easier with low prey drive breeds, as they tend to be more focused on their owners than any squirrels or birds in the vicinity! This means they are a good choice of dog for less experienced owners,” says Dr MacMillan.

Adaptable

Looking for a dog who can adapt to your lifestyle? A low prey drive breed could be your answer.

“They are very adaptable dogs and will be happy with life in the city or the countryside,” says MacMillan.

Disadvantages of dogs with low prey drive

Less exciting

“The disadvantage of all of this is that some owners find them a little dull. Some of these dogs can be laid back to the point of being horizontal. They are often less interested in chasing toys and might be more food-motivated than high prey drive breeds,” says Dr MacMillan.

Dogs with low prey drive

1. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Wearing their history in their name, this regal toy breed is sweet, gentle and highly adaptable. And with their big round eyes and silky coat, the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a handsome dog to boot.

But this aristocrat can be fun too, is great with children and can adapt well to various lifestyles. Whether you're an active family or prefer to chill at home, the Cavalier King Charles is just happy to be with you. A breed for companionship rather than hunting, the Cavalier King Charles is at his or her best when with their nearest and dearest.

2. Maltese

While the exact origins are debated, the original Maltese is an ancient breed dating back at least some 2,000 years. Renowned for their snow white, floor length coat these toy dogs have a lot of love to give.

Beneath their luscious locks, you'll actually find a robust little body boasting a smooth gait, making them keen little athletes given half a chance. But high prey drive dogs they are not, and while they can be a little stubborn, they're easy enough to train with rewards-based methods. They're also a low-shedding breed, making them the perfect companion for house proud dog lovers.

3. Bichon frise

A bichon frise might be low prey drive but nobody could accuse them of being boring. Sure they look sweet, but they are whip smart, endlessly curious and natural comedians. A true personality dog, a bichon frise is a great option for someone looking for a low prey drive breed with plenty of character.

The white, low-shedding coat is also appealing, and their affection for other dogs and children make them an appealing breed for families. Simple enough to train and with a sunny disposition, the bichon is a happy chappy that's a delight to own.

4. Great Pyrenees

A surprising inclusion perhaps, given that the Great Pyrenees was bred to protect their territory and livestock within it. However they were bred to do so without unnecessary chasing and aggression, meaning they are typically peaceful around smaller animals and young children.

So if you're looking for a low prey drive breed that's big and powerful, a Great Pyrenees could be your answer. Often lauded as majestic, these strong mountain dogs can weigh more than 100 pounds! In spite of their size, they exude a peaceful ambience and are a joy to have around.

With their mellow temperament, gentle nature and fluffy stature, the Great Pyrenees is a fantastic and unexpected low prey drive breed.

5. Papillon

Though the papillon may be small, they are mighty and keen mini agility dogs winning at the sports highest levels. Even if agility is not a path you'll walk, they are a boon to teach new party tricks too.

This robust little dog is characterised by their trademark butterfly shaped ears, giving them a sweet look. Yet their hardy nature and love of activity means these pups are more fun to have around than first impressions might lend. They're also highly adaptable, happy to live in warm or cool climates, as well as town or country. In short, they're friendly, fun and endlessly sunny.

6. Pomeranian

Fiesty, friendly and fluffy, the Pomeranian has been popular among royalty. Tiny in size – weighing no more than seven pounds – this small dog breed isn't short of personality! They are alert and intelligent, making them a joy to train. And while they are active, they are happy with short brisk walks making them well suited to a range of environments.

And with their low prey drive, they make an one of the best family dogs. They love nothing more than hanging out with their favourite people, and will happily play games and learn tricks. Their gorgeous coat does require regular grooming and some note they do enjoy the sound of their own voice.

7. Saint Bernard

Another big dog option for those looking for a powerful dog with a low prey drive. The Saint Bernard is known as a gentle giant and extraordinary fondness of children. Remember ‘Nana’ in Peter Pan – need we say more?

Do bear in mind these are seriously big dogs though, a male can easily weigh up to 180 pounds. They are also big droolers and you’ll need to set aside a good hour each day to exercise your new pack member. But whatever you put in, you’ll get more out by way of big hearted effective and sloppy kisses.

8. Pug

If you're looking for a chilled out, low prey drive dog you'd be hard pressed to beat the pug. One of their favourite pastimes is snoozing and they are so far from interested in chasing small animals the idea is actually almost laughable.

Bred as companion animals for Chinese Emperors, this ancient dog breed has a love of people bred into it. They love nothing more than attention, love and snuggles with their favourite humans.

With their short muzzle they don't cope well in heat, or with vigorous exercise so suit laidback homes in cooler climates.

If you're looking for an easier start as a new dog owner, opting for a dog breed with a low prey drive could be a smart decision. They can be more dependable in homes with other smaller animals, such as cats or rabbits. Plus their fundamentally adaptable nature means they are well suited to a range of households, including those with young children or based in the city.

Read next: Friendliest dog breeds

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

Getting a new cat or kitten is a very exciting time, but there are lots of things you'll need to buy ahead of their arrival – including the best cat food, a selection of toys, and a comfortable bed to sleep in.

When bringing home a new kitten, it's not just material items to prepare; you'll also need to consider whether they'll be an indoor or outdoor cat (and kitten-proof your house and yard accordingly), register them with your local vet, and make your home a safe space for them to explore.

We know there's a lot to remember, so to help you out, we've created a simple checklist for you to follow below, which includes our top product recommendations (many of which have been tested by the PetsRadar team). The cost of owning a cat can soon add up, so we've included budget-friendly options that won't break the bank.

Checklist for new cat owners

1. Food

There are pros and cons to both dry and wet food, but most vets recommend introducing both to your cat from an early age to get them used to it. However, if your kitten is particularly young, it's best to wean them onto a pâté first, which helps keep them hydrated and is easier to chew.

2. Bowls

Once you've chosen the best wet or dry food option, you'll need something to serve it in – and we'd recommend one of the best anti-vomit bowls, which reduce neck strain and may even aid digestion.

3. Bed

Felines sleep for around 15 hours a day, so they'll need one of the best cat beds or hammocks to snuggle into. Once you've got to know your kitty a little better, you'll be able to choose the best spot to place it – whether that's up high by the window or tucked in the corner of a quiet, secluded room.

4. Litter box and litter

If you decide to keep your feline indoors, you'll need one of the best cat litter boxes, along with the best cat litter to go inside. We'd recommend a clumping option, as it's easier to clean (like this one from Amazon), but if you really hate the idea of scooping poop altogether, you could splash out on an automatic litter box instead.

5. Scratching post and tower

Scratching does wonders for your cat’s mental and physical health – helping reduce stress and anxiety while keeping their claws in tip-top condition. Being up high also helps them feel safe, so your cat will thank you for having one of the best scratching trees that combines the two!

6. Collar with ID tag

If your cat ever goes missing, wearing a collar with an ID tag will massively increase the chances of being reunited. We recommend choosing one with a quick-release design to prevent it from getting caught on branches and posing a strangulation risk, as well as a reflective finish for added safety at night.

7. Carrier

Even if you don't plan on taking your new pet out of the house on day trips, you're going to need the best cat carrier for vet visits and for collecting them from the rescue center or breeder.

According to vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan, most cats prefer covered designs, which help them feel protected from threats and muffle the sound of scary noises. We'd recommend choosing one with multiple entry points, as this will make it much easier to get them out during vet appointments.

8. Grooming tools

If you don’t keep on top of regular grooming sessions using the best cat brushes, their fur can quickly become tangled and matted, which may even lead to skin problems in the future.

Brushing your cat is also a great opportunity to spot issues like wounds or lumps, helping you monitor any health problems that might need treatment.

9. Pet toothbrush and toothpaste (yes, really!)

This might come as a surprise, but cats need their teeth brushed too – and you’ll need a pet-specific brush and toothpaste to help them maintain good dental hygiene. If you need advice on how to brush a cat’s teeth (without being attacked!), we have a helpful guide that you can follow.

10. Toys

The benefits of cat play are endless – not only does it encourage physical activity to keep them fit and active, but it also lets them act out natural instincts like hunting (without actually killing anything).

It's also one of the easiest ways to prevent boredom, which, in turn, helps avoid destructive behavior.

11. Medication

While your vet can suggest and prescribe any necessary medication, you can buy the best flea treatments over the counter to keep your cat protected from pesky insects.

12. Treats

When it comes to training, having some of the best cat treats on hand will go a long way. Felines aren’t motivated by punishment, so it’s important to reinforce good behavior using food, praise, catnip, or toys.

By stocking up on these essentials, you'll ensure your cat has everything they need for the best possible start in life.

Read next: Things you’ll need to do when preparing for a new kitten and how to be a good cat owner. You might also want to learn how to set up the perfect catio

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Ever found yourself asking 'can I use cat litter for dogs?' If you have a feline friend in your life, you likely swear by having a litter box in your home – after all, they're a real lifesaver when it comes to preventing accidents. But can you kill two birds with one stone and have your dog use your cat's litter as well?

The good news is, you can absolutely do this. Although the best cat litter is marketed at cat owners, there are plenty of brands that have products that are safe for dogs to use to.

We consulted expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan to find out whether there are any particular types of cat litter that are better for dogs and if any need to be avoided – she shared her thoughts below.

Can I use cat litter for dogs?

The simple answer is yes, your dog can absolutely use cat litter. While cat litter is generally used for our feline friends, if incontinence in dogs is affecting your pup you may find it helpful to have a litter tray in your home for them to use when they feel the urge to go. It could also prove convenient, especially during the night as your dog will be able to toilet when they need to rather than you having to wake up to take them outside.

"You can use cat litter for dogs," Dr MacMillan confirms, "but you may need to take care if your dog has a habit of eating things they shouldn’t. Clumping cat litter could cause serious problems like bowel obstruction, especially if your dog ingests large amounts relative to their size. Dog-specific litter is available, and it usually comes in the form of wood or paper pellets, but there are cat versions that are very similar."

While non-clumping wood or paper litter are good choices for dogs, Dr MacMillan goes on to add they may not take as kindly to using litter as cats do.

"It’s important to note that cats seem instinctively keen to use a sandy substrate which allows them to dig and bury their droppings," she explains. "However, dogs tend to prefer a firmer surface or grass to eliminate on. So, this means some dogs will get on better with puppy pads (like this eco-friendly one from Amazon) or fake grass, rather than litter."

Is there a difference between dog litter and cat litter?

There are lots of different types of cat litter and you may find that these vary from the types of dog litter that are on sale.

"Cat litter comes in all sorts of varieties including clay, wood pellets, and paper-based litters," says Dr MacMillan. "Less types of dog-specific litter seem to exist, and the ones that do are usually paper based. Dogs don’t need to dig and scratch around when going to the bathroom like cats, so they don’t need a fine substrate."

If you're wanting to stop your dog peeing in the house, Dr MacMillan says that using litter may be unnecessary.

"Dogs can be trained to just use a dog litter box with a plastic grate on it, a puppy pad, or fake grass."

Because of this, you'll find there isn't the same market or demand for dog litter.

Signs your dog needs a litter box

You may be wondering if there are any particular signs you should be on the lookout for that indicate your pup would benefit from a litter box. Well, according to Dr MacMillan there aren't too many situations that warrant this.

"Taking your dog outside to toilet whenever possible is always recommended, so there are not that many situations when a dog litter box is indicated," she says. However, there are a few exceptions.

"Dogs with mobility issues that struggle to get outside might be an example of a litter box candidate, as well as those that are recovering from illness or injury," Dr MacMillan states. "Dogs that live in high-rise apartment blocks and can’t easily get outside, or those that live in locations prone to extreme weather might also be suitable."

So, what about those days when you're out of the house for several hours at a time and your dog is on their own? Dr MacMillan says in these sorts of situations, you should consider using a pet sitter or dog walker, rather than a litter box.

"This will meet your dog’s social and exercise needs, as well as their toileting needs," she explains. "Litter boxes should not be a reason to leave your dog alone for hours on end."

However, if you do decide to invest in a doggy litter box, Dr MacMillan says it's worth noting that these are really only practical for small breeds of dogs.

"Large dogs will void large amounts of urine, and they are more likely to miss the tray altogether, especially males who like to cock their leg."

Read next: How long does it take to potty train a dog

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in July 2025 by Kathryn Williams.

The best cat breeds for families are brilliant for providing your children with a fun and gentle companion while also teaching them about responsible pet ownership. And the good news is, there are plenty of cats that are great with kids.

Cats provide children with all sorts of valuable life lessons, including compassion, respect, and what it means to take care of another living being. They also make wonderful playmates, as many children love watching their feline friends zoom about the house after the best cat toys.

Not only that, but cats can provide children with emotional support and a friendly face when they need it most. And while all animals can be therapeutic in certain ways, the cats on this list are particularly good with children. Patient, tolerant, and people-oriented, here are the best breeds of cats for families...

Best breeds of cats for families

1. Birman

With their striking blue eyes and color point coats, the Birman is well known for being gentle, sweet, easygoing, loving, and incredibly curious, which makes them the perfect playmate and companion for children.

Birman cats are big boned with soft and silky fur, and they enjoy affection, so they make for great snuggle buddies. Gregarious, sociable, and playful, they’re happiest when with their people, and while they can be chatty at times, they're not one of the loudest cat breeds.

This is a cat that prefers to stay close to home, and they need a fair bit of attention, plenty of play, and a good brush every day to keep their coats in tip-top condition. When they're not playing, they're typically happy to sit quietly next to children while they do their homework or read out loud, so they really are the ideal cat for families.

2. Ragdoll

Acquiring its name because of the way it goes limp like a ragdoll when picked up, this is another blue-eyed beauty with a striking appearance and cuddly nature. With a reputation for being one of the most affectionate cat breeds around, the ragdoll loves to be held and will often follow their humans around the house.

Like the Birman, the ragdoll has a color point coat and an easygoing and social personality that makes them feel right at home in the midst of bustling family life. They adore the attention of children, and because they’re so docile and gentle, they’re good with babies as well.

While the ragdoll doesn’t need a lot of rambunctious play, they do need a lot of cuddles and snuggle time to stay happy and healthy. Because of that, these big softies will do well with children who like to pick up their feline friends, as long as they hold them carefully and are reminded to be gentle.

3. Maine Coon

A large cat with an even larger personality, the Maine Coon is a gentle giant who retains their kitten-like disposition well into their senior years. Originating in New England, where they would often join their sea-faring owners aboard their boats, the Maine Coon is a breed that loves water, so don’t be surprised if they try to join your children in the bath!

Incredibly tolerant, the Maine Coon is unafraid of being handled by children and will quite happily allow itself to be carted all around the house without kicking up a fuss. Devoted companions, they quickly form close bonds with all members of their family.

If you've ever found yourself wondering, 'Can cats play fetch?' or walk on a leash, they certainly can if you have a Maine Coon in your life. These cats tend to take well to all sorts of training, and they love accompanying their families on adventures. Maine Coons are kind and good-natured kitties who take well to rambunctious environments, and while they're not typically lap cats, they like to be with their people at all times.

4. Persian

Definitely the glamor puss of the cat world, the Persian has a round head, even rounder eyes, and a flat nose that gives them their distinctive look. People-oriented, friendly, and patient, their coats are so fluffy and shiny that children could easily mistake them for a stuffed animal when they’re asleep.

Persians are very undemanding cats and they require very low levels of activity, so they’re not a great choice if you have a child who wants a very high-energy playmate. They’re also not particularly fond of the outdoors and prefer to spend their time curled up in their favorite spot inside the home.

However, they are very gentle and serene, so they make a wonderful fit for introverted and quiet children looking for a placid and calm companion to keep them company. Because they require a lot of grooming to keep their coat looking in tip-top condition, the Persian can also be a wonderful way to introduce your child to the responsibilities that come with owning a pet.

5. Siamese

When it comes to the friendliest cat breeds, the spunky Siamese is high up the list, which is likely why it’s the most popular short-haired breed in the United States. Absolute gluttons for attention, this is one feline who will be unlikely to tire of having your child dote on it - in fact, the more love the better!

Extremely talkative and with a love of the outdoors, Siamese cats are a wonderful choice if you have an active child in need of a fully engaged feline friend. They’ll happily follow them around the house meowing with every step and won’t hesitate to take on the role of honorary sibling if your kid is an only child.

While they can sometimes be shy when first entering a new home, they’re quick to warm up once they’ve learned the lay of the land, so it won’t be long before your child has a loyal and loving best friend for life. Just make sure you have plenty of toys on hand, as this is one kitty who loves to play.

6. Manx

The Manx cat originated on the Isle of Man, just off the British coast, and is well known for often being without a tail. Medium in size and with a rounded body, they have a stocky look, and their powerful hind legs help to propel them to great heights when they’re whizzing around the house.

Affectionate and gentle, yet highly playful and interactive, in many ways, they’re more like a small dog than a cat. Incredibly protective of their humans and loyal to those they love, they’ll happily trot along behind the children of the house and follow them wherever they go.

While the Manx has a quiet voice, they love to talk, which will delight any child in search of a feline friend who will really engage with them. They enjoy a good cuddle, will settle on your lap, and are just all-around delightful family cats who form strong attachments and bonds with all of their people.

7. Abyssinian

With a history that dates back 4000 years, the long, slender, and highly intelligent Abyssinian is one of the oldest cat breeds still in existence. Often considered to be the clowns of the feline world thanks to their amusing antics and love of having fun, they make great playmates for children.

Self-sufficient, they’re not really fond of spending time on people’s laps and prefer to get their needs for connection met through running, jumping, and having fun wherever their family members are, as opposed to sitting quietly and snuggling.

Friendly and loyal, they are prone to emitting a steady stream of soft chatter, and while they are full of beans and require significant amounts of playtime, they do best with older children who can match their energy levels and engage with them appropriately.

8. Burmese

With a delightfully frisky and mischievous personality that makes them a firm favorite with families, the Burmese is a fearless and friendly feline who will remain playful well into its twilight years.

Like the Manx, Burmese cats are more dog-like than cat-like at times. They typically enjoy playing fetch and other games, and they are deeply devoted to their humans – if you plan on adopting a Burmese, expect a Velcro cat who will follow you around wherever you go.

Burmese cats love being stroked and chatted to, and their athletic, outgoing, and curious natures make them a magnet for equally inquisitive and energetic children. Sociable creatures who don’t like being left out of anything, they do best in homes where there is always someone around to keep them company.

9. American Shorthair

Low-maintenance and super laid back, the American Shorthair is independent and able to be left alone, but is equally happy when its humans return. Highly flexible and adaptable, they cope brilliantly well with family life and thrive on being around children.

Sweet-natured and able to get along well with almost anyone, including other pets, they’re effortless additions to the home, and because they tend to live long lives (up to 20 years!), they're a good choice if you’re looking for a long-haul companion for your child.

They love interactive play with their people, and their muscular body holds up well around boisterous little humans. Alongside regular play sessions, they also enjoy twice-weekly grooming sessions, so this can be another great way for your child to bond with their feline friend.

10. Bengal

The Bengal is our pick for any outdoorsy, adventure-loving family who wants to be able to take their kitty companion with them wherever they go. Vocal, communicative, athletic, and social, this is one cat that won’t be happy to be left on the sidelines.

Highly trainable and very loyal, the Bengal has endless energy to burn, making them a great choice for children who love to be on the go. In fact, with their curious and playful natures and their tendency to always be seeking out fun and engaging things to do, the Bengal is basically a kid at heart.

While they may have a name and a coat pattern that makes them appear like a jungle cat, don’t let their outward look fool you – these felines make for very sweet and gentle family pets, but they are full-on, so you’ll want to make sure you offer them plenty of stimulation and enrichment.

11. British Shorthair

With their teddy bear good looks and mellow personality, the British Shorthair is a standout choice for families with children. Calm, patient, and very tolerant, these cats are very personable and low maintenance, so they're ideal if you're after a feline friend who won't be constantly demanding attention or in need of care.

Reserved and quiet cats, they are adaptable and gentle, and they remain completely laid-back in even the most bustling of homes. British Shorthairs value their independence, so they're not bothered if you're out of the house all day, but most will eagerly come running to greet their humans when they return.

British Shorthairs take a keen interest in family life, but they're not ones for getting in the way, instead, they prefer to supervise from a comfortable distance. They don't tend to have favorites and instead enjoy dishing out their attention and affection to all members of their tribe. While they are very people-oriented, they don't like being carried around, so it's best to educate young children on the importance of respecting their boundaries.

12. Ragamuffin

An absolute winner of a kitty if you have children in your family, the ragamuffin is a dream come true for any child looking for a cuddly feline friend who will be their constant companion. Docile, people-loving, and affectionate, these medium to large-sized cats live for their humans.

Super sweet and eager to please, they do have moments of playfulness throughout the day, but for the most part, they're happiest when curled up on a nice warm lap. Highly agreeable, they're not at all worried about being dressed up and positioned next to a soft toy at a make-believe tea party – in fact, they'll be a completely willing participant!

Ragamuffins are devoted family pets who are one of the best emotional support animal breeds. They are trusting, get on well with other animals, and are non-confrontational. However, because of that, they may not defend themselves if attacked outside by another cat, so keeping an eye on them or having them be an indoor cat only is advised.

13. Cornish Rex

Cornish Rex cats make outstanding family pets thanks to their mischievous yet gentle nature. A highly active kitty who is always on the go, this playful and sociable breed retains their kitten-like energy levels well into their senior years.

As long as they're treated with respect and not rough-handled, the Cornish Rex gets on brilliantly with children who will delight in having a crafty partner in crime to team up with. Highly intelligent and affectionate, they require constant companionship to keep them happy.

These curly-coated cuties have a good lifespan, with most living to around 16 years of age with the right care. They do well in bustling, multi-pet households and like meeting new people. Cornish Rexes like to scale furniture to get to high places, so having cat-friendly shelving is a must.

14. Himalayan

Affectionately known as 'Himmies', the Himalayan is a medium to large-sized cat that is a cross between the Siamese and the Persian. They have long silky coats, bright blue eyes, and beautiful color points on the ears, face, paws, and tail.

Sweet and playful, Himalayan cats are incredibly gentle cats who soak up as much attention and affection as they can get. While they're relatively sedate, they still enjoy playing with interactive cat toys – especially if there's a child or other family member around to join in on the fun.

Attuned to their owner's emotions, they love to cuddle and would do best in quiet and calm family homes as they're not keen on loud noises. While they have low-maintenance personalities, their coats do require daily grooming to prevent tangles from forming.

15. Norwegian Forest cat

A large and robust breed that's been around for thousands of years, the hardy Norwegian Forest cat (or Wegie, as they're affectionately called) is a true nature lover who revels in being able to explore in the great outdoors. They have a long and thick coat, and because it's water-repellent, this breed has a natural love of swimming.

Sociable and playful, Wegies are very friendly cats who enjoy the company of their human family and other pets. They form strong bonds with their humans and are gentle, even-tempered, and patient with children who will delight in their curious, adventurous, and playful spirit.

Norwegian Forest cats have a lovely independent streak, so while they are people-oriented, they're more than happy to amuse themselves when you're out or too busy to play with them.

16. Scottish Fold

With their owl-like appearance and trademark folded ears, Scottish Fold cats are instantly recognizable. This round, compact, and solid kitty has a friendly and affectionate temperament that makes them well-suited to family life.

Highly adaptable, they do well in most environments, and they enjoy playing games and interacting with their people. Because they're so docile, you'll find they can co-exist very peacefully with other pets, including dogs and other cats, and while they're moderately active, they're not overly energetic.

Scottish Folds are even-tempered, sweet cats and are not ones for scratching or biting, so they can be a good choice for homes with young children around. They tend to only hiss or hide away when in pain, often the result of something called Scottish Fold disease, which causes early-onset arthritis. If you have a Scottish Fold and you notice them acting differently all of a sudden, it's worth getting them checked over by a vet.

17. Siberian Forest cat

Siberian Forest cats are striking kitties thanks to their prominent neck ruff, bushy tail, and semi-long and thick coat. Bright and athletic, they are loving and affectionate cats who slot in well to family life.

This breed is both playful and gentle, so they're ideal companions for children. Friendly and social, they're active cats with a laid-back temperament and a devoted nature. They value interaction highly and, because of that, they don't like being left alone.

Because they're so clever, Siberians are a joy to train. They typically have no trouble learning what's expected of them around the house and are also great at mastering new tricks.

18. Exotic shorthair

One of the most popular cat breeds thanks to their gentle, calm, and friendly nature, the exotic shorthair adapts well to most living situations. A short-haired version of the Persian, exotic shorthairs are heavily boned, big cats with thick and dense coats.

These cats are playful and full of life. They adore being with their people and love curling up on a nice warm lap. It's very common for exotic shorthairs to follow their humans from room to room, and their patient and tolerant demeanour means they do well with children of all ages.

Outgoing around those they know well, exotic shorthairs can be initially wary of strangers and may need time to warm up to new people. They do not like being left alone and can develop separation anxiety if they don't have company, so they're best suited to homes where someone can be with them all day.

19. Devon Rex

Looking for a delightfully silly companion for your children? The Devon Rex ticks this box nicely. With their pixie-like good looks and charming personalities, these active and outgoing kitties make a wonderful addition to the family.

An extroverted breed who never fails to entertain, the Devon Rex is a cheeky little monkey who your children will absolutely adore. These cats revel in human company and will act like your second shadow – in fact, in many ways, it will be more like having a dog than a cat!

Loyal and loving, when they've burnt off their energy chasing their favorite toys, they'll be more than happy to snuggle up on your lap for a nice, long cuddle. An intelligent kitty who likes to supervise what's going on in the home, they tend to like to assist their humans with everything they do, so don't be surprised if they try to join you in the shower.

20. Balinese

Looking to add one of the healthiest cat breeds to your family? With a life expectancy of between 18-122 years, look no further than the Balinese! A long-haired variety of the Siamese, the Balinese is a svelte and elegant kitty with a razor-sharp mind.

While they may look regal in appearance, they're actually quite clownish in nature, and they love to play, which probably explains why they get on so well with children. They enjoy games of fetch and will be quite happy to retrieve toys until you're too tired to continue playing with them.

Highly active, both in mind and in body, they require a lot of mental and physical stimulation to keep them happy, which means they're often best suited to older children who can keep up with them. Cat puzzle feeders can be a great way to give their brains a good workout, and rest assured, once they've burnt off their energy, they'll be keen to curl up on your lap and have a cuddle.

Read next: Best family dog breeds

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Simply known as a “Toller” to fans of the breed, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever hails from Canada, originally as a hunting dog. They were used to lure ducks and other waterfowl into range of the guns before retrieving fallen birds. It is said that their playful antics on the waterline would pique the interest of ducks and geese, drawing them in to investigate.

Tollers are the smallest of the retriever breeds, but their trademark crimson coats makes them easy to spot in a line-up. They are playful and full of energy, yet they make affectionate companions. The American Kennel Club refers to these dogs as “red tornados”, and it’s easy to see why!

They can be a challenge to train, so short, fun sessions are the way to go. Keeping their brains occupied is just as important, too, so many owners partake in sports like agility or flyball. And if you live near water, you’re bound to have a happy Toller as these dogs love to swim.

If you think a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever could be for you, read on to find out more about the breed, with expert advice from vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

Do Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers shed?

Yes, due to their waterproof double coat, Tollers are known for their shedding. Regular brushing can help keep on top of loose hairs, and happily this breed is relatively easy to groom.

“Their medium-length coat just needs regular brushing to keep things looking neat,” says Dr MacMillan, adding, “It’s important not to forget the feathery bits behind their ears as these can become matted.”

As with all dogs, regular teeth brushing and nail trimming is also recommended.

Are Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers good family dogs?

“Tollers can make great family dogs,” confirms Dr MacMillan. “Their compact medium size and friendly nature make them a good choice for active households.”

However, Dr Macmillan warns, “They are energetic dogs, so they may be best suited to older families who have the time to meet their exercise needs.”

They generally need around an hour of exercise a day, depending on their age and health status, and it’s important that this involves mental stimulation, too. Anything relating to retrieving or water will keep a Toller happy, and you can get the whole family involved here.

They’re always keen for an adventure and a play, so an active, outdoorsy family is the perfect fit for this breed.

Are Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers cuddly?

Yes, as well as being patient and loving with children, most Tollers love cuddling up with their owners, provided all their needs are met. If they don’t receive enough physical or mental stimulation they may become independent when out and about and destructive when in the home.

Do Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers bark a lot?

“Tollers are not known for barking a lot, but each dog is an individual,” explains Dr MacMillan. “Early socialisation will help to reduce the risk of excessive vocalisation.

“Also, making sure your dog has plenty of mental and physical stimulation will help to make them more settled in the house,” she adds.

They may well bark to alert their owners to strangers outside, or bark and whine when they are excited or overstimulated, but they are not known as being loud or “yappy” dogs.

Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever common health problems

“The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is considered to be a generally healthy breed,” reassures Dr MacMillan. “However, there are a few inherited health problems that they are susceptible to.”

Like many pedigree breeds, Tollers can suffer from elbow and hip dysplasia.

“Developmental joint abnormalities like these can lead to joint pain, mobility issues, and early-onset arthritis,” explains Dr MacMillan.

She adds, “Autoimmune thyroiditis can affect this breed, leading to symptoms of hypothyroidism such as lethargy, weight gain and skin issues.”

Another endocrine (hormone) issue that can affect Tollers is hypoadrenocorticism, which is also known as Addison’s disease.

“This causes a decrease in cortisol production, which can have serious effects on the body, such as lethargy, vomiting, and collapse,” says Dr MacMillan.

She advises potential owners to “choose your puppy from a breeder that has carried out all of the recommended health screens”.

Should I buy a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever?

These intelligent, playful dogs are easy to fall in love with, but it’s important to make sure they’re a good fit for your family before you commit to a puppy. They’re a lively, energetic breed that loves nothing more than an outdoors adventure with their owners, and they make great companions to those who are able to meet their needs.

Families with an interest in dog sports, such as agility, dock diving and flyball, are a great fit for this active little retriever, and previous experience with gundogs will give you an advantage when it comes to training.

If you’re confident you can meet their needs, this playful “red tornado” could be a great addition to your family and a loyal companion to boot.

Read next: Chesapeake Bay Retriever breed profile

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

When I got pregnant, I was became really conscious that I didn’t want my dog to be jealous of my baby.

A 2024 survey by insurers ManyPets suggested that 36% of parents reported their dog becoming jealous since bringing a new baby home. Signs of jealousy can include whining, displaying attention-seeking behaviour, resource guarding, destructive behaviour and even unusual toileting habits.

Envy can also go hand-in-hand with anxiety, and you might find your dog leaves the room when the baby is there, or displays behaviours such as overgrooming.

Having read up on all this while I was pregnant, I wanted to take steps to make sure that my German Shorthaired Pointer, Maple, didn’t display any jealous or anxious behaviours towards my baby when I brought him home. Here’s what I did—and a realistic insight into how well it worked!

1. Desensitise your dog to baby sounds, sights and smells

There’s a lot you can do to prepare your dog before your baby’s arrival. I used to play Maple baby crying noises on my phone, starting out quietly and increasing the volume over time.

We also spent time in the nursery, put up the Moses basket in our bedroom and had the pram in the house downstairs. This got her used to all the paraphernalia that comes with having a baby, so there are not too many new things all happening at once.

2. Go for a walk with an (empty) pram

It might sound silly, but this is a great tip to get your dog used to walking nicely alongside a pram before you bring a baby into the mix, too. It’ll give you a chance to practise that loose-leash walking, and your dog will soon start to associate the pram (and eventually baby) with walkies.

3. Provide your dog with their own safe space

This is really vital to ensure your dog knows they have somewhere to go where they won’t be bothered by the baby. If your dog is crate trained, you most likely already have this sorted. In our case, Maple isn’t crate trained, so we used retractable baby gates (like these ones) to ensure that she wouldn’t be disturbed when she was snoozing by the fire.

While Maple was generally calm and happy around my son, in the early days she would become quite worried when he would cry. When this happened, I ensured she was never stuck in the same room as us and was able to leave to go somewhere else, away from the crying.

4. Introduce your baby in the right way

How you introduce your dog to your baby will have an impact on those first impressions. Maple was staying with my in-laws while we were in the hospital, and when my husband went to pick her up once we were home, he took with him a muslin cloth that smelt of our son for her to have a good sniff of.

Once he brought Maple back home, we greeted her first, with our son safely out the way in his Moses basket, so she could have plenty of fuss and be excited without putting the baby in danger.

Once she was calm, we let her approach the Moses basket and have a sniff, and we rewarded her with a couple of treats. We did this regularly over the first few days, and she soon understood that the baby was nothing to become overly excited about.

5. Don’t force any interactions

Never try to force your dog to sniff or say hello to the baby; let them do it on their own terms. Some dogs may take longer than others to want to investigate the new arrival, and that’s fine.

Others may be more interested and need some gentle encouragement to stay calm. In time, your dog will become more and more used to having your baby around the house.

6. Maintain their routine

A lot will change when you come home with a newborn, but one of the things you can try to keep the same is your dog’s routine. Keep breakfast and dinner times, as well as walk times, the same as they used to be before the new arrival. Too much upheaval can make your dog feel anxious, so this is a simple way to help them feel settled.

While there were definitely mornings where I would rather have stayed in bed to catch up on some much-needed sleep, nipping downstairs to let Maple out and give her her breakfast did help to maintain a happy house in the long run!

7. Keep up with their training

As well as ensuring that your dog stays on their best behaviour, regular training sessions will give you one-on-one time with your dog, which will help prevent any feelings of jealousy towards your baby.

With Maple, I often did training sessions in the garden while my son napped, and she absolutely thrived off these. Even a quick five-minute session made her feel really appreciated, and gave her brain a workout to tire her out, too!

Any one-on-one time you can give your dog, whether it’s training or just a good sofa snuggle, will really help them to feel like a priority to you.

8. Treat them to a new toy – or two

Maple loves a squeaky toy, so buying her some new toys when my son was very young helped to keep her happy – and stopped her stealing his cuddly toys! Interactive toys (like the best puzzle toys) are also great to give your dog something to do while you’re busy with the baby, too, helping to prevent them from becoming bored.

9. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you

You’re bound to be busy with the new baby, but do keep a close eye on what your dog is trying to tell you. If they’re being more destructive than usual, they might not be getting the exercise they need. If they’re avoiding the baby at all costs, they might be struggling with the noise and the changes to their routine.

Remember never to leave your dog unattended with your baby, and if you are concerned about any of their behaviours, your first port of call should be their vet.

Read next: How I survived having a newborn with a high-energy dog or best family dog breeds

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

Generally speaking, pet parents only tend to speak to vets during cases of emergency. For example, you might have noticed that your pet is vomiting or has a bad case of diarrhea. Or perhaps they've got an injury that needs a bit more than first aid.

While these are all very valid reasons to take a trip to the vet, what are the things your pet's vet would tell you if they had the chance? Or are there any words of wisdom they would share before getting a pet?

To help, we spoke to Dr Hannah Godfrey and Dr Rebecca MacMillan to find the lowdown. Here's what they had to say..

Things vets wish you knew

1. Insurance is worth it

Wondering is pet insurance worth it?

“I know insurance is expensive, and it can feel like you’re throwing your money away if you don’t use it,” Dr Hannah Godfrey explains. “But it’s so heartbreaking having owners visit when their pet has been seriously injured or is really poorly and finding that they can’t afford the treatment that their pet needs.”

There are many reasons to get your pet insured. But there are perhaps many more reasons to get your pet insured with the best pet insurance possible.

For starters, the best pet insurers don’t limit the length of time you can claim for a condition. They also cover a greater range of things, and your vet might be able to work with them directly. This means that they’ll claim it from your insurance directly, so you don’t pay anything on the day.

So, if you haven’t already, do learn how to get pet insurance and how to choose the right pet insurance to make sure you get the maximum perks for the least money.

2. Don’t walk your dog in extreme temperatures

It will come as no surprise to hear that fitting in enough exercise and activity for your dog is very important. Exercising safely with your dog can keep them happy and healthy, and help you spend more time moving and less time sitting.

But exercising dogs in extreme temperatures can do more harm than good. And this is the case whether it’s too hot or too cold. The best way to know if it’s too hot or cold is to think that if it’s too hot outside for you, then it’s too hot for your dog.

3. Putting off seeing the vet can make treatment less effective

“It’s normal to monitor your pet for 24 hours or so if they’re ‘not quite right’ or a bit off their food,” explains Dr Godfrey. “But putting off seeing the vet if your pet has symptoms of being unwell could delay treatment and worsen your pet’s chances of recovery.”

That’s why it’s best to get clued up on the pet health symptoms that you should never ignore. For example, this can include symptoms like blue or purple gums, blood in their poop, and excessive drooling and seizures. If you notice any of these, get down to your local vet sooner rather than later.

4. The less toxins you have in your home, the better

If you’re the proud pet parent of a pooch, you will most likely know that most dogs love eating things that they shouldn’t.

Whether it’s rogue pieces of cardboard that have found their way onto the floor or morsels of last night’s dinner that have fallen from your plate and into their mouths. If chowed down in huge quantities, these items can cause some digestive issues.

But some things, like toxins, such as antifreeze, xylitol (an artificial sweetener), or chocolate, are highly toxic to dogs. So, to prevent them from making their way into their system, it’s worth keeping them under a heavy-duty lock and key, or banishing them from your home entirely.

5. No medications are 100% safe

According to Dr Godfrey, any substance that goes into your pet's body has the potential to cause side effects or reactions in individual pets, just like in human medication.

“However, drugs are studied for long periods before their veterinary license is approved, and even once medications have a veterinary license, any adverse reactions or serious side effects are reported to make sure they continue to be safe for the majority of pets," the vet says.

6. Socializing your puppy is a necessity

Let’s face it: socializing your puppy isn’t always a walk in the park. But it’s well worth the hassle. That’s because you want your dog to get on well with other dogs and humans, and how you manage this in the first few weeks and months of having them can make all the difference in how they interact with the world.

In fact, if a puppy misses early socialization, they can become anxious and fearful. Therefore, it’s well worth familiarizing your sweet puppy with all the facts that might pop up throughout their puppyhood and as they grow into an adult.

7. Don’t leave teething puppies unsupervised

If possible, teething puppies shouldn’t be left unattended, as puppies with growing teeth will tend to chew anything and everything. If left to their own devices, this could see them chew through electrical wires of household plants that could cause stomach upsets.

Instead, keep an eye on them and ensure you have the best puppy teething toys to use at their disposal.

8. Vets are here to guide you, not to sell

“We want your pet to be well just like you do, and that means giving you all the treatment options,” Dr Godfrey says. “To help you make an informed choice about what’s best for your pet and realistic to your situation, we try to give a range of options and explain why one might be ideal, while the other is just worth a try.”

Dr Godfrey explains that vets try to be open with pet parents so that both you and your vet can work together.

“We want to find a way that works for everyone, so please share your thoughts with us.”

9. Get to know your pet

Just like humans, every pet is unique. Which is why it’s worth spending time with your pet to really understand what makes them tick and become acquainted with their likes and dislikes.

The upside is that there are many different ways to bond with your pet. For example, to improve your relationship with your dog, you could learn how to play with a dog, learn the art of positive reinforcement, and learn canine body language.

To bond with your cat, key tips could include learning how to play with a cat, brushing them regularly with one of the best cat brushes, and mastering the art of cat body language.

10. Vaccinations are really important

The question of whether cat and kitten vaccinations are actually important comes up time and time again. The same applies to puppy shots.

“But the reason the diseases we vaccinate against are uncommon is because we vaccinate against them,” Dr Godfrey says.

Thankfully, diseases like canine distemper and feline panleukopenia are relatively rare. But as Dr Godfrey explains, this hasn’t always been the case.

“Vaccination has helped to keep these diseases at bay, and if we stopped vaccinating, we’d see the number of cases rising again. We still see parvovirus in unvaccinated dogs and cat flu and feline leukemia virus in unvaccinated cats and kittens, so vaccination is really important.”

11. Regular grooming is a necessity

Wondering how often you should brush your dog? Or how often should you brush your cat? Perhaps you’re thinking of setting up a sand bath for a hamster? Or do you want to learn about bearded dragon care?

Of course, the type of pet you choose to share your home with will depend on how often you have to groom your beloved friend. But in most cases, regular grooming is a necessity as it will help maintain a pet's health, hygiene, and overall well-being. And a happy them is a happy you!

12. Dental care is really important

You wouldn’t go days, weeks, or months without brushing your teeth, so why should your pussycat or pooch?

“Many owners don't realise they should be proactive about their cat or dog's oral hygiene,” explains Dr. MacMillan. “This means introducing daily teeth brushing from a young age and regular check-ups.

Therefore, it’s worth stocking up on the best toothbrush for dogs and learning how to keep dog teeth clean. The same goes for researching the best way to keep your cat’s mouth clean and healthy and mastering how to brush your cat’s teeth to avoid smelly cat breath and dental disease.

“Dental disease can cause painful gum inflammation, bad breath, and tooth loss,” Dr. MacMillan explains. “It can also lead to the spread of bacteria through the blood to other locations in the body, like the heart and kidneys.”

13. Don’t be afraid to call the vet

It goes without saying, but every pet owner hopes they never have to experience a pet emergency. But in reality, it can happen to any of us.

In some instances, identifying a vet emergency might be easy. For example, any sudden illness, injury, or condition, like bleeding, breathing difficulties, eye injury, or toxin ingestion, are health symptoms that should never be ignored and requires a vet's attention.

But how about when your pet has mild diarrhea or an upset stomach? If in doubt, it’s always worth having your vet’s telephone number to hand. And the same goes for your local veterinary emergency hospital’s telephone number and location, and the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control telephone number.

14. We don't mind questions!

You’ve probably heard the phrase ‘no question is a silly question’? Well, this phrase very much applies here.

“Vets would much rather you ask questions than go away confused about your pet's health condition,” Dr MacMillan explains.

The expert says that vets won’t mind if you want to ask for a second opinion.

“As long as it is a polite request!” Dr MacMillan says. “Your vet will be happy to arrange for a colleague to take a look or refer you to a specialist, as we want your pet to get better as much as you do!”

15. Do your research before getting your pet

Did you know that, according to research, almost three-quarters of first-time dog owners are overwhelmed? That’s because getting a dog is a big life event, and the same goes for getting any pet.

So before you take the leap and adopt a fur friend, scale pal, or even a low-maintenance pet, like a hamster or goldfish, it’s worth doing lots (and lots) of research and talking to a vet.

“Some owners make really poor choices, lured in by social media and websites,” Dr MacMillan says. “Buying the wrong type of animal or breed for your lifestyle and budget can lead to disastrous consequences.”

The same goes for purchasing your pet on a whim from a negligent breeder.

“So many times, I have seen owners bring in a puppy or kitten having been misled about its breed or age,” flags Dr MacMillan. “These animals also haven't had health screens, so they are more likely to become unwell. Don't think you are helping that animal by 'rescuing it', all you will do is fund that breeder's business, so that they can go on and produce more litters.”

16. A limp means there's something wrong

Limping dogs should be seen by a vet, no matter whether they do or don’t seem to be in pain.

“So many vets have heard the phrase 'he's limping, but he doesn't seem in pain',” Dr MacMillan explains. But if your pet has a limp, this means something is wrong, so don't ignore it.

“Dogs with arthritis are particularly good at compensating for their pain, especially as it has crept on gradually,” the vet explains. “Most won't scream, cry, or make a big fuss about it – just because they are such good boys and girls! They have learnt to just put up with their pain and struggle on, which is heartbreaking when you think about it.”

17. Obesity is a major health concern

Obesity in dogs can lead to serious health conditions and a reduced lifespan – and the same goes for obesity in cats. But sometimes our fur friends just don’t know how to say no to the best cat treats or the best dog treats, which can lead to overfeeding.

“Lots of owners turn a blind eye or make a joke out of the fact that their pet is overweight,” Dr MacMillan says. “Sadly, being overweight can make them prone to other health conditions like diabetes, joint disease, and cancer, shortening their lifespan.”

The good news is that regular weight checks and body condition scores will help keep your pet on the right track. But as Dr MacMillan highlights, “Obesity is a real issue that needs to be taken seriously.”

18. Communication is key

Sometimes, communicating with your pet can feel like you’re talking another language. But as is the case for humans, communication really is key.

Of course, communicating with your pet is far easier to do once you have gotten to know them, as they’ll have a better understanding of you and vice versa.

To communicate with your pet, it’s a good idea to use and reuse words they can constantly recognize, like ‘food’ and ‘walkies’. And just be mindful of using these words even when you’re not talking to them. That’s because research has shown that dogs can eavesdrop on humans and understand conversations they aren’t even involved in.

19. Learn how to handle your pet

Or if they like to be handled at all! For example, all pets should be handled with the utmost care, and your bearded dragon is no different. To pick up a bearded dragon, you’ll need to gently scoop them up with two hands, making sure their body and all four legs are supported.

Got a feline friend at home? Then, make learning how to pick up a cat on top of your to-do list.

20. If you’re adopting, always ask for your pet’s medical history

No matter whether your cat or dog has been in a rescue centre for days or months, all pets should have some sort of medical history.

That’s because rescue shelters vet-check dogs on entry, to stay up to date on if they’ve had their vaccinations or whether they need any other preventative medicines.

To ensure you take proper care of your fur friend, you should ask for a copy of your pet’s medical history. That way, you can look for any signs of illness your pet has exhibited or had treated.

Welcoming a new arrival? Discover the vet-backed tips for keeping new puppies happy, healthy and safe or how to help your dog settle into a new home

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you’ve got an affinity for bold, energetic dogs full of personality, you might find yourself charmed by dogs with a high prey drive. Prey drive refers to a dog's innate urge to chase down prey, often small animals.

Experienced dog owners are well placed to handle such dogs and a well trained high prep drive breed is often a highly rewarding companion to have around. But having such a dog is fundamentally a big responsibility.

To get the lowdown on the pros and cons of owning a high prey drive breed, we spoke with Dr Rebecca MacMillan, a qualified vet with more than 15 years of experience.

Advantages of a high prey drive

High energy

If you’re looking for a companion for your weekend hikes or countryside frolics, a high prey drive breed will have enough get up and go to keep you company.

“The advantage of a high prey drive breed is that they are usually active and energetic dogs, which many owners look for in a pet,” says MacMillan.

Like everything in life, it depends on your specific situation, though.

“However, this same energy could be a disadvantage for other owners,” says MacMillan.

Intelligent

If you’ve got the time not just to exercise your dog's body, but his or her mind too, you could be well placed to have a high prey drive breed. But if not? Think again.

“These dogs are usually working breeds that require plenty of physical activity and mental stimulation to keep their brains occupied. If they don’t get enough of either of these things it could lead to behavioural problems,” says MacMillan.

Disadvantages of a high prey drive

Harder to train

These dogs are not for the faint of heart, you need a robust training plan in place if you’re bringing one home as they can be some of the more difficult breeds to train.

“Dogs with a high prey drive can be distractable, making recall training particularly tricky,” says MacMillan.

If you’re not confident with dog training, you’ll benefit from expert guidance from a professional dog trainer.

Limited settings

“These breeds are best suited to countryside living where they have plenty of space to exercise freely,” says MacMillan.

If you live in a city centre or small home with limited outside space, this breed of dog is not likely to be a good match.

Dogs with high prey drive

Doberman Pinscher

This strong, well muscled dog was originally bred in 1890 by Louis Dobermann, a tax collector who wanted a fearsome, strong companion to assist him with his work.

Characterised by their strong body, long muzzle and graceful gait, Dobermans have a strong prey drive. They are smart dogs, fearless and incredibly vigilant, making them one of the world's best protection dogs.

Alaskan Malamute

Bred for brute strength and endurance, the Alaskan Malamute looks every part the sled dog it was born to be. From their powerful chests and broad shoulders to their weatherproof coat, everything works together to make this impressive dog capable of hauling heavy loads across punishing terrain.

Much like other arctic breeds, the Malamute has a very strong prey drive. But a well trained and socialised Malamute is a joy to have around and is surprisingly playful and gentle within its family pack.

Border Collie

Originating on the Anglo-Scottish border and descending from traditional sheepdogs, the Border Collie is a hyper intelligent herding dog. They have a reputation as workaholics for good reason, and a bored Border Collie is a recipe for disaster. However if you can ensure he or she is adequately physically and mentally stimulated, this affectionate dog makes for a wonderful companion and is one of the smartest dog breeds.

Border Collies have a strong prey drive, stemming from their deeply entrenched herding instinct. This can involve them chasing down anything that moves, including other animals, but even humans and vehicles in some instances! Suffice to say, training and socialising must begin immediately.

Jack Russell Terrier

Energetic, confident and full of character, the Jack Russell Terrier was originally developed to assist on fox hunts, like all terriers, the Jack Russell Terrier has a strong prey drive. Bred to help by intercepting dens and flushing foxes out, Jack Russells have retained a strong hunting instinct. The drive can result in chasing down anything that moves whether that's birds and squirrels or even cars.

Weimaraner

A German breed hunting dog dating back to the 19th century, the Weimaraner is originally from the city of Weima, hence the name. Known as 'Gray Ghost', the Weimaraner is a sleek all purpose gun dog characterised for its excellent speed, stamina and smarts.

With their history as gun dogs, they have a high prey drive as they have been bred to hunt, point and retrieve game, which can manifest in them chasing small animals like squirrels, rabbits and cats. But so long as well trained, this smart, attractive dog can make an excellent pet.

Greyhound

The king of sprinters, the greyhound makes for a surprisingly gentle and good natured companion around the house. Provided he or she has been adequately exercised first!

Known for their speed, slim heads and smooth coat, today the greyhound is a popular show dog and pet. But this sighthound has been bred over the years for coursing, greyhound racing and hunting, resulting in a very high prey drive that remains incredibly active.

Belgian Malinois

If you're looking for a high energy dog to form a deep and lasting bond with, look no further than the Belgian Malinois. This grafter of a dog is also also known as the Belgian Sheepdog, thanks to its herding instincts.

With that in mind, these dogs love to have a job to do and you'll need to provide plenty of physical and mental stimulation to keep them happy. But if you do, you'll be rewarded with a tremendously loyal companion.

Dog breeds with high prey drive have bags of energy and laser focus, which can give them a competitive advantage as working or sporting companions. However these breeds require lots of mental and physical stimulation to keep them happy and healthy. For owners that understand this, and can provide a good outlet, these dogs make for excellent companions.

Read next: Best dogs for tracking

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

English Setters were developed in England in the 1800s, initially bred as hunting dogs to locate game, whereupon they would “set” – crouch low and freeze. These friendly dogs can come in a range of colours, and their unique speckled markings are referred to as “belton”.

They are a large yet elegant breed, with a graceful neck, proud head and soft expression. English Setters have a strong hunting instinct with plenty of stamina, but they are quite happy to make themselves comfy in a home environment provided that all their needs – physical and mental – are met. They love working their minds, so puzzle games or toys and training exercises are a great way to keep them happy.

English Setters have an affectionate, gentle nature and they love being around their owners. They can be great family dogs provided they have the correct training and socialization from a young age, as they get on well with children and other dogs.

However, they can have a penchant for digging, jumping and roaming, so it’s important to be in the know about the breed before committing to a puppy. Read on to find out more, with expert advice from Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

Are English Setters good family dogs?

English Setters make great family dogs, getting on well with people and other dogs. However, their energetic nature means they can be boisterous in play, so they are perhaps better suited to those with older children.

Dr MacMillan adds: “English Setters are affectionate, sociable and playful, which are all great qualities for a family pet. They will usually get on well with children provided they have had the right early socialization and training.”

Ensuring they have plenty of outlets for their energy – such as frequent walks, training sessions and plenty of playtime – will help prevent boredom and destructive tendencies in the home.

Do English Setters shed?

English Setters have long, silky coats, and they are considered moderate shedders. However, regular grooming – as explained below – will help to keep this shedding under control.

What grooming needs to English Setters have?

These dogs are famous for their striking coats, so keeping them in tip-top condition is a must.

“English Setters will need brushing two or three times a week to keep their coat looking good,” agrees Dr MacMillan, adding, “American English Setters have a lot more fur compared to the finer coat of working English Setters, so these dogs can require a bit more work. Some owners may have their English Setters trimmed or clipped to keep things neat.”

A long-toothed metal comb is a useful tool for working through any tangles that might have developed between grooming sessions. Tangles can quickly develop into mats, which are uncomfortable for dogs and can rapidly become painful, leading to skin problems.

As with all dogs, daily teethbrushing is advised, as well as monthly nail trimming.

Are English Setters high energy?

Thanks to their heritage as working dogs, English Setters have plenty of energy to keep going all day long. This means that they need regular daily exercise to keep them happy and healthy. Dr MacMillan advises “up to two hours of exercise each day, depending on their age and health status”.

And while English Setters will relish long walks or hikes, or tagging along for a jog or a bike ride, these intelligent dogs require plenty of mental stimulation as well as physical. This could be in the form of training sessions, puzzle toys and playtime – or even agility or obedience training.

As long as their energy needs are met, English Setters will happily settle down when at home and try their hardest to be lapdogs – they are very affectionate with their owners.

Do English Setters bark a lot?

“English Setters are not more vocal than any other dog breed, but they will bark if they are under-stimulated, overly excited or wary about something,” says Dr MacMillan. “Making sure your dog is appropriately socialized and receiving enough exercise will help keep unwanted barking at bay.”

They may well bark at strangers coming to your door, but they are certainly not known as aggressive dogs, with a reputation for being friendly and sociable.

English Setter common health problems

Hip and elbow dysplasia, as with many pedigree dogs, can be common in this breed.

Dr MacMillan explains: “These developmental joint abnormalities can cause joint pain, mobility issues and early-onset arthritis. It is important to buy your English Setter puppy from a reputable breeder who has health-screened their dogs for these conditions.”

As well as hip and elbow screening, Dr MacMillan recommends breeding dogs be screened for inherited eye issues, such as progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), another common finding in English Setters.

Another health problem to look out for is hypothyroidism.

“Affected dogs produce too little thyroid hormone, leading to weight gain and lethargy, as well as skin and coat changes,” says Dr MacMillan.

Skin allergies can also cause an issue in this breed, which can lead to itchiness and secondary skin infections.

“Some English Setters can be affected by ectropion, or droopy eyelids,” adds Dr MacMillan. “These sag away from the eyeball, contributing to dry eyes and eye infections.”

Should I buy an English Setter?

This friendly, affectionate and good-looking breed is well-suited to an active, outdoorsy family that can match their energy needs. Provided they have ample opportunities to run and play, they make gentle family companions in the home, with their sweet-natured temperament shining through.

If you are considering an English Setter, do keep in mind that they are a working breed, so they thrive off mental stimulation as well as physical. They are intelligent dogs and benefit from regular training sessions.

Giving them a “job” – such as agility, obedience or gundog training – will keep their minds working while also giving an outlet for some of their energy.

Read next: Other setter breeds

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

If you’ve got a thing for seeing pooches with pendulous ears that droop down rather than point up, allow us to introduce you to the world of floppy-eared dog breeds.

One of the best things about dogs (aside from their capacity to fill our world with unconditional love, companionship, and tons of furry cuddles) is the fact that they come in all shapes and sizes. For example, some breeds have lobes that hang way past their chin, while other dogs have beards.

You might think that longer ears equal better hearing, but this isn't always true. Instead, the size and drooping shape of a dog’s ears will help with sound localization and will often determine how good they are at scent tracking. In some cases, longer lobes can even help prevent dirt from getting inside ear canals while four-legged friends search for prey in dense areas.

To help you find out more about floppy-eared dog breeds, we’ve pulled together a handy list. Just know that if you intend on adopting a dog with longer lobes, it’s well worth knowing how to clean a dog’s ears, as their larger-than-average lugholes can make them prone to ear infections due to the warm and moist environment they create.

20 dog breeds with floppy ears

1. Beagle

Excitable yet gentle, the much-loved beagle is known for its pendulous ears, which are an important part of their hunting breed heritage as their lobes help them to gather scent particles and direct them towards their nose.

Pair this with their big eyes and sensitive nose, and this energetic British dog breed, which was originally bred as a scent hound, and it’s no wonder why beagles are believed to be one of the best tracking dogs.

2. Basset hound

Upon first glance, it can be easy to mix up a basset hound with a beagle—they’re both scent hounds and hound breeds after all.

But this laid-back beauty comes with soulful eyes, a heart of gold, and droopy face and ears that you can’t help but fall in love with. Perhaps one of the biggest differences when comparing a beagle vs basset hound is the fact that the latter comes with very long and floppy velvety ears, complete with a wrinkled brow. They also have a low-slung body with powerful, short legs. But both use their ears to help with scent tracking.

3. Dachshund

Introducing the smallest of the hound breeds! Along with their long, sausage-like body, a dachshund is instantly recognisable for their floppy, triangular ears. Of course, their ears might not be as long as a basset hound’s, but that doesn’t stop this small but big-personality pooch from using them to the best of their advantage.

In days gone by, dachshunds used their floppy ears to protect their ear canals from debris while hunting in burrows. But in more recent times, they use their ears to sweep the ground to help scoop up scents as they go.

Due to their size, these lively and playful creatures are considered to be the best dog breeds for apartments. Just know that dachshunds can have a stubborn streak, so they are best trained early.

4. Cocker spaniel

Just look at that little face! Cocker spaniels are another breed that is characterized by their adorable floppy ears, complete with bundles of fur, which shape their face.

Like most dogs on this list, their long, floppy lug holes act like funnels, trapping and directing smells towards their noses. Back in the day, this helped them retrieve game birds, which was their original purpose.

5. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Long, feathered and set low on its head, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has naturally floppy ears, and it makes sense, because they were bred for their strong hunting instincts.

Today, this spaniel breed is a bundle of fun as they’re sociable, gentle, and playful. Plus, due to their small size, you won’t need a lot of space for them to run around.

If you are thinking of adopting this breed, one thing to note is that they will shed all year round. So their coat and ears will need regular grooming with one of the best dog brushes to keep them matt and tangle-free.

6. Golden retriever

Another floppy-eared dog to add to the list? The humble golden retriever. This breed's ears won’t stand at attention like a Corgi's. Instead, they'll hang downwards, framing their face.

Originating as hunting dogs, these large dogs have lots of love and energy to share. This means, to prevent them from becoming bored and exhibiting destructive behaviours, they’ll need at least two hours of exercise a day.

The good news is that these floppy-eared dogs can be trained reasonably easily. So, as long as you have a whole load of patience and bags full of the best dog treats, these obedient fur friends will be loyal and loving.

7. Poodle

No matter whether you have your heart set on a toy poodle, miniature poodle, or just love poodles in general, you’ll be pleased to know that all different types come with their signature curly-coated floppy ears.

These beautiful and regal-looking dogs are very low-shedding dogs, which means that you won’t have to follow them around your home with your vacuum. However, you will need to set aside some time to groom them to stop their coat (and ears) from getting matted and tangled.

8. Shih tzu

If you looked up the phrase ‘pampered pooch’ in the dictionary, you’d probably find a shih tzu underneath. With their long fur—which coats their floppy ears—these small four-legged friends always look like they’ve just come out of the groomers.

And that’s because they probably have. This high-maintenance dog breed requires a bath almost every week, along with daily brushing and a trip to the groomers every six weeks or so to keep their coat and lobes looking fabulously flowing and mat-free.

9. Maltese

Under all that glorious, free-flowing white fur lies a perfect pair of floppy ears that’s just waiting to be brushed and groomed to keep them (and the rest of their coat) in perfect pristine condition.

The Maltese is undoubtedly one of the cutest dog breeds, and along with its bright white coat, it’s characterized by their drooping, feathered ears.

10. Havanese

Even when alert, a Havanese dog’s ears will remain floppy, right by their side. Considered to be a toy dog, this small breed doesn’t shed much, so you won’t constantly be picking up after them or finding hairs all over your home.

Instead, if you are thinking of adopting a Havanese, you’ll inherit a gentle soul that’s known for being one of the friendliest dog breeds. What’s not to love?

11. Bluetick coonhound

A bluetick coonhound is a scent hound that’s known for its powerful nose, mottled, glossy coat of blue and black, and unique howls while out on a hunt.

The very friendly breed is also characterised by its floppy ears, which hang way down past its chin to enhance their scent tracking ability to detect and follow scents more effectively.

Coming with a soulful expression, blueticks are relentless in their pursuit of a scent. But they’re also relentless in their love for affection. Therefore, this sweet and affectionate dog will love nothing more than spending time with its pet parents.

12. Great Dane

Great Danes have naturally floppy ears, but you might have spotted some with cropped ears. The difference in ear appearance is a combination of genetic factors and, unfortunately, breeding practices.

These gentle giants might be tall in stature, but they sure are one laid-back dog breed, as this calm and placid pooch is an affectionate breed that adores people, big and small. This makes them the perfect companion for family life.

13. Labrador Retriever

There are many reasons to love labradors—and their fluffy, floppy ears are just one of them.

Looks aside, Labrador Retrievers make great search and rescue dogs as they have an outstanding sense of smell and are incredibly cool, calm, and collected when in an emergency. This much-loved retrieving breed has bundles of energy, and they get on just as well with kids as they do with adults.

14. German Shepherd

Did you know that all German Shepherds are born with floppy ears, which tend to gradually stand up with age? The breed standard is for German Shepherds to have erect ears that stand up tall. However, some have dropped lug holes due to one or both parents having floppy ears.

Ears aside, German Shepherds have a brilliant sense of smell, and because of this, they like to sniff just about everything. Due to their impeccable olfactory sense, they are often used as search and rescue dogs or for bomb and drug detection.

15. Boxer

Much like the Great Dane, you might have noticed that some boxers have floppy ears while some have cropped ears. The latter is because their ears have been cropped—a method which the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) stands against, as it’s done solely for cosmetic reasons rather than health benefits.

Some more facts about boxers include their highly energetic nature and their willingness to learn new skills (which makes them easy to train). Though their strong bodies and serious faces might look a little intimidating, they actually love spending time with people and are happiest when they are surrounded by their human family.

16. Afghan Hound

If you plan on adopting an Afghan Hound, their impressively long and silky coat, complete with floppy ears, will mean you will spend a lot of time brushing them daily to keep them looking their best.

While their need for speed (they can run at up to 40mph) will also have you spending a lot more time outside than in. That's because these sighthounds were bred to run fast over long distances, and they are believed to be one of the fastest dog breeds in the world. Pretty impressive, huh?

17. Irish Setters

Coming with floppy ears, primarily due to their background in hunting and scent tracking, this pointing breed makes for one of the best family dogs, as it gets on well with children and other dogs.

Its lovable and playful personality, coupled with its glamorous looks, including its long and drooped ears, has helped maintain this breed’s popularity.

Just know, an Irish Setter will need plenty of exercise to meet their needs, and they respond well to training thanks to their intelligent nature.

18. Papillion

Stealing the title of being one of the cutest dog breeds around the world (and it's quite clear to see why!) and considered one of the smartest dog breeds, a papillon also has one more title to add to its list: and that’s being a dog that comes with floppy ears.

While the breed is most often known for its butterfly-like ears, which stand upright, there is also the papillon variety called a phalène, which has drooped ears.

19. English Springer Spaniel

Just like it’s cousin the cocker spaniel, an English Springer Spaniel has floppy ears coated in glorious fur, which help them in hunting and tracking.

Springers are larger and more muscular in size, compared to their cocker spaniel counterparts. They also have higher energy levels, so they fit right in in busy family homes or for those who lead an active lifestyle.

20. Bloodhound

Known as the ‘king of tracking dogs’, the humble bloodhound is said to have 230 million scent receptors as opposed to humans, who have five million. But it’s not just their noses that make them one of the best dogs for tracking. Their large and droopy ears are specifically crafted to act as scent-sweepers, which helps direct scent particles towards their nose.

It is worth noting, though, that due to their having large ears, this can cause moisture and warmth to become trapped in their ear canal, which can lead to ear infections. So it’s something to watch out for.

Read next: Hairless dog breeds

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

As a vet with nearly 14 years of experience treating dogs of all shapes and sizes, I’ve diagnosed and managed many cases of hypothyroidism in dogs. This hormonal condition is surprisingly common in our canine companions and, if left untreated, can significantly impact their quality of life. Thankfully, with the right diagnosis and treatment plan, most dogs go on to live happy, healthy lives.

Hypothyroidism in dogs can be tricky to spot at first. The signs are often subtle and can mimic other issues, making it a bit of a diagnostic puzzle. Owners often come to me saying their dog seems "just not quite right" – maybe they've slowed down, put on weight, or their coat has lost its usual shine.

In this article, I’ll explain exactly what hypothyroidism in dogs is, what causes it, how to spot the signs, and what treatment options are available. Whether you’re worried about your own dog or simply keen to learn more, read on to find out more.

What is hypothyroidism in dogs?

Hypothyroidism is a condition where the thyroid gland, located in the neck, doesn’t produce enough thyroid hormones – primarily thyroxine (T4) and triiodothyronine (T3). These hormones play a crucial role in regulating your dog’s metabolism, which is essentially how their body uses energy.

When the thyroid doesn’t produce enough of these hormones, the body’s metabolic processes slow down. This affects almost every system in the body, from how your dog digests food and maintains body temperature, to how their skin and coat renew.

In dogs, hypothyroidism is almost always caused by a problem within the thyroid gland itself (known as primary hypothyroidism). It’s most commonly seen in middle-aged, medium-sized to large breed dogs, with breeds like the golden retriever, Labrador Retriever, Doberman Pinscher and cocker spaniel being more predisposed.

What are the signs of hypothyroidism in dogs?

The clinical signs of hypothyroidism in dogs can be varied and subtle at first. They tend to develop gradually, which can make it tricky for owners to spot what’s going on. You might notice one or two of the following signs initially, and more may appear over time:

• Lethargy or reduced activity levels: Dogs may seem more tired, sleep more, or be reluctant to go for walks.
• Weight gain without increased appetite: Despite eating the same (or less), your dog may gain weight.
• Hair loss: Typically symmetrical and affecting the sides of the body, tail, and back of the thighs.
• Dry, dull coat and flaky skin: You may notice dandruff or coarse, brittle fur.
• Cold intolerance: Your dog may seek out warm spots or shiver more easily.
• Slow heart rate (bradycardia): This is something a vet may pick up during a physical exam.
• Recurring skin or ear infections: Often due to poor skin health or secondary infections.
• Neurological signs: In rare cases, dogs may develop weakness, head tilt, or facial nerve paralysis.

It’s worth remembering that these signs can also be seen with other health issues, especially skin conditions, so your vet will likely recommend blood tests to confirm a diagnosis. Some owners report behavioral changes too, such as increased anxiety.

What causes hypothyroidism in dogs?

As mentioned earlier, primary hypothyroidism is the most common form in dogs – this means the problem originates in the thyroid gland itself. The two main causes of primary hypothyroidism are:

1. Lymphocytic thyroiditis

This is an autoimmune condition where the dog’s immune system mistakenly attacks the thyroid gland. Over time, this leads to inflammation and destruction of thyroid tissue, reducing hormone production. It’s believed to be inherited in some breeds.

2. Idiopathic thyroid atrophy

In this form, the normal thyroid tissue is gradually replaced with fatty tissue, for reasons we don’t fully understand. Like lymphocytic thyroiditis, this results in a reduction of hormone production over time.

Less commonly, dogs can have secondary hypothyroidism, where the pituitary gland (which controls the thyroid) fails to produce enough thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH). This is rare and usually associated with brain trauma, tumors, or congenital defects.

It’s important to note that hypothyroidism in dogs is not the same as in people – in dogs, dietary iodine deficiency and congenital hypothyroidism are extremely rare.

What is the best treatment for hypothyroidism in dogs?

The good news is that hypothyroidism in dogs is very manageable with the right treatment. Once diagnosed, your dog will usually need lifelong hormone replacement therapy. Here’s how we treat it:

• Levothyroxine supplementation: This is a synthetic form of the thyroid hormone thyroxine (T4). It’s given by mouth, usually twice daily to begin with, although some dogs can eventually switch to once daily dosing. The exact dose is calculated based on your dog’s weight and individual response.
• Regular monitoring and blood tests: Your vet will need to check your dog’s thyroid hormone levels periodically, especially in the early stages, to ensure the medication is working effectively and to adjust the dose if necessary. It usually takes a few weeks to start seeing visible improvement in your dog’s energy levels and coat quality.
• Supportive care: Dogs with skin issues, infections, or weight problems may need additional supportive treatments like medicated shampoos, antibiotics, or dietary management until their hormone levels are back to normal.

With proper treatment, most dogs return to their normal selves – more energetic, healthier-looking and happier. However, it’s vital to stick to the treatment plan and not stop medication without veterinary advice.

How long can a dog live with hypothyroidism?

With a correct diagnosis and consistent treatment, dogs with hypothyroidism can live a completely normal lifespan. Once stabilized on the right dose of thyroid hormone, they can enjoy all the things they did before – whether that’s long countryside walks, playing fetch, or curling up on the sofa with you.

The key to long-term success is ongoing monitoring. Regular vet check-ups and blood tests (every six to 12 months in most cases) are essential to ensure hormone levels stay within the optimal range. If symptoms return or worsen, the dosage may need adjusting.

It’s also worth being mindful of other age-related conditions that may develop alongside hypothyroidism. Because many of the symptoms (such as lethargy or weight gain) can overlap with other diseases, it’s always a good idea to speak to your vet if you notice any changes in your dog’s health.

Hypothyroidism in dogs is a common and very treatable condition. Although the symptoms can be vague at first, with early detection and the right care, your dog can live a full and happy life.

If you’re ever concerned that your dog might be slowing down or not quite themselves, don’t hesitate to book a check-up – it’s always better to investigate sooner rather than later.

Read next: Arthritis in dogs or signs of dementia in dogs

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in July 2025 by Emma Chandley.

Training a reactive dog can be hard work, but having the right tools (and a bag of the best dog treats) can make the experience a whole lot easier.

Reactive dogs overreact to certain stimuli in their environment – whether it’s barking at vehicles, lunging at other dogs, or growling at groups of people. These responses might seem like the dog is simply aggressive, but they’re usually linked to anxiety and caused by fear, a lack of socialization or training, insecurity, or trauma.

If you're just getting started on your reactivity training journey (or have struggled to make much progress), you'll find a list of training essentials below, which come recommended by Rachel Rodgers, Head of Training and Behavior at Napo Pet Insurance.

What products can assist with reactivity training?

Here’s everything you need to make reactivity training easier – from specialized training leashes to handy treat pouches – all tried and approved by Rachel.

She says: "Ultimately, successful reactivity training is about changing how your dog feels, not just how they behave. These products help support that process safely and positively."

1. Y-shaped harness with a front D-ring

First things first, you'll want to invest in the best dog harness – one that's well-fitting, Y-shaped, and has a D-ring on the front. According to Rachel, these styles offer full shoulder movement and help reduce the risk of injury.

She adds: "The key feature is the front D-ring, which can be used with a double-ended leash for greater control, especially when needing to gently guide your dog away from a trigger.”

2. Double-ended leash

There are lots of benefits to using a double-ended leash – it gives you extra control, makes it easier to redirect your dog's movement, and lets you adjust the length or attach it to two points on the harness.

Rachel says, "The front attachment acts as a pivot point, making it easier to turn your dog away from distractions or triggers if needed.”

Note: Some double-ended leashes come with a head collar, but this isn't something Rachel recommends.

3. High-value training treats

To build positive associations with their trigger, reward your dog with a high-value treat whenever they come across it – regardless of how they react. Rachel says that food can be really helpful in reactivity training, and this process will help change their emotional response over time.

She says: "These treats should be used consistently whenever your dog sees another dog or a known trigger – even if they’re just looking. Over time, this builds a positive conditioned emotional response, helping your dog feel safer and more relaxed. Think hot dog, chicken, and cheese! Reactivity training isn't the place for boring kibble.”

4. High-quality treat pouch

When it comes to building positive associations, you need to act quickly so your dog can connect the reward with the trigger. That's where a treat pouch comes in handy – it lets you access treats faster than fumbling around in your bag or pockets.

She says: "A good treat pouch allows you to quickly and easily access high-value treats (such as chicken, cheese, or hot dogs) with one hand. Look for one with a waterproof, washable lining – moist treats are often messy!"

5. Poo bags

This might seem irrelevant to reactivity training, but Rachel says that having reliable poo bags is essential, as many reactive dogs have looser stools caused by stress. There's nothing worse than running out of poo bags – or having them split – so make sure you have plenty of durable ones to hand.

Training tools to avoid

Now you know what can help, what about the things to avoid? Rachel warns against using any equipment that could tighten or cause discomfort to your dog, including head halters or figure-of-eight leashes.

She says: "These can worsen reactivity by adding negative associations to the presence of triggers – for example, another dog appears and the equipment tightens, which leads to increased fear or frustration."

Want more training tips? Read these three common mistakes you should never make with a reactive dog, and how to calm a reactive dog

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Gingivitis in cats is one of the most common dental problems seen in general practice, yet it’s often misunderstood or missed by owners until the condition becomes severe. As a small animal vet with 14 years of experience, I’ve helped lots of cats with dental disease, and gingivitis is almost always where it starts.

Gingivitis is an inflammatory condition affecting the gums, and while it may seem mild at first, it can lead to significant discomfort and more serious oral health issues if left untreated. The good news is, with the right management and care, it can often be controlled and even reversed.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about gingivitis in cats – from the early warning signs to the best treatment options – with practical advice from clinical experience. Whether you’re a first-time cat owner or a seasoned pro, this guide will help you protect your feline friend’s pearly whites.

What is gingivitis in cats?

Gingivitis in cats is the inflammation of the gums (gingiva) that surround and support the teeth. It’s typically caused by a build-up of plaque – a soft, sticky film made up of bacteria, saliva, and food particles – on the surface of your cat’s teeth. If not regularly removed, this plaque hardens into tartar (calculus), which further irritates the gums and worsens the inflammation.

In the early stages, gingivitis may just affect the gumline. Owners may notice redness, swelling, and bleeding around the teeth. But if left untreated, it can progress to periodontitis, where the structures supporting the teeth, like ligaments and bone, become damaged. This stage is often irreversible and can lead to tooth loss.

Some cats also develop a more severe form of gum disease called stomatitis, where inflammation extends deeper into the mouth and causes widespread pain.

How do I tell if my cat has gingivitis?

Cats are incredibly stoic creatures, and they often hide signs of pain. That’s why gingivitis can easily go unnoticed until it’s quite advanced. Look out for these common signs:

• Red, swollen gums, especially around the base of the teeth
• Bleeding gums are often noticed during eating or when chewing on toys
• Bad breath (halitosis) is a telltale sign of oral bacteria
• Drooling or saliva with traces of blood
• Difficulty eating, chewing on one side, or dropping food
• Pawing at the mouth or rubbing the face
• Decreased appetite or weight loss
• Changes in behavior, such as being more withdrawn or irritable

What causes gingivitis in cats?

There are several underlying causes of gingivitis in cats, and often it’s a combination of factors. Here are the most common:

There are several underlying causes of gingivitis in cats, and often it’s a combination of factors. Here are the most common:

• Dental plaque and tartar: These are the number one causes. If plaque isn’t removed through regular cleaning, it calcifies into tartar, leading to inflammation and infection.
• Feline chronic gingivostomatitis (FCGS): This is an immune-mediated condition where the cat’s immune system overreacts to plaque, causing severe and painful inflammation in the gums and mouth.
• Viral infections: Viruses like feline calicivirus, feline herpesvirus, and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) can all contribute to gingivitis and stomatitis. Luckily, some of these can be vaccinated against. Vaccinations are very important for our pets.
• Tooth resorption: A common and painful condition in cats where the tooth structure breaks down, exposing sensitive dentin and leading to secondary gum inflammation.
• Poor oral hygiene: Just like in humans, cats need regular dental care. Lack of brushing, dental diets, or professional cleaning leads to rapid plaque accumulation.
• Genetic predisposition: Some breeds, such as Abyssinians, Siamese, and Persians, are more prone to dental issues, including gingivitis.
• Diet: Soft or wet food diets don’t provide the abrasive action needed to help keep teeth clean, which can contribute to plaque build-up.

How do you treat gingivitis in cats?

The treatment for gingivitis in cats depends on the underlying cause and severity. Here's how it is typically managed:

• Professional dental cleaning: A full dental scale and polish performed under general anaesthesia is usually the first step. This allows your vet to remove plaque and tartar from above and below the gum line and assess each tooth for disease.
• Tooth extraction: If teeth are loose, damaged, or contributing to chronic inflammation, they may need to be removed. Cats can do very well without several or even all of their teeth, and it often significantly improves their quality of life.
• Medical treatment: Anti-inflammatory medication (such as corticosteroids or NSAIDs), antibiotics, or immune-modulating drugs may be used, particularly in cases like FCGS. Your vet will tailor a treatment plan based on your cat’s individual needs.
• Ongoing dental hygiene: At-home care is crucial for long-term success. This includes keeping your cat’s teeth clean, brushing your cat’s teeth with a pet-safe toothpaste, offering dental chews or diets, and regular vet checks.

Can gingivitis be treated at home?

Mild cases of gingivitis can sometimes be managed at home with daily tooth brushing and dental-friendly products. However, once tartar is present, it can only be removed professionally. Never attempt DIY dental scaling – this can cause pain and damage the teeth.

Home care is essential after professional treatment to prevent recurrence. There are many products that help, including:

• Pet toothbrushes and pet toothpaste, learning how to brush your cat’s teeth can make a huge difference.
• Dental diets (like Hill’s t/d)
• Water additives
• Dental gels and sprays

What happens if you don't treat gingivitis in cats?

If left untreated, gingivitis in cats can progress to periodontal disease, leading to:

• Chronic pain
• Tooth loss
• Oral infections that can spread to other parts of the body
• Poor general health due to inflammation
• Weight loss and reduced quality of life
• Increased veterinary costs in the long term

Early intervention is always best. Even if your cat isn’t showing obvious signs, regular dental checks can help catch issues before they become serious.

Read more here on fascinating facts about cat’s teeth or four ways to prevent gingivitis that I'd wish I'd known sooner

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in July 2025 by Emma Chandley.

Pneumonia in dogs is a condition that is commonly encountered in general practice, particularly in very young, elderly, or immunocompromised patients. It’s always a concern, but the good news is that with early detection and appropriate treatment, most dogs go on to make a full recovery.

I have been a veterinary surgeon for nearly 14 years. During this time, I’ve treated many dogs with respiratory issues, and pneumonia is one of the more serious conditions dogs can suffer. That said, it can be one of the most rewarding to treat, as dogs often respond quickly to care once the underlying cause is addressed.

In this article, I’ll take you through what pneumonia is, how to spot the signs early, and what treatment and recovery look like, so you’ll know exactly what to do if your dog is affected.

What is pneumonia in dogs?

Pneumonia in dogs is an inflammatory condition affecting the lungs, where the tiny air sacs (alveoli) become filled with fluid, pus, or other debris. This impairs your dog’s ability to breathe and get enough oxygen into their bloodstream.

There are several different types of pneumonia, but one of the most common is bacterial pneumonia, often caused by a respiratory infection or something being inhaled into the lungs (known as aspiration pneumonia). Other causes include viral pneumonia, fungal pneumonia, and parasitic infections, although these are far less common in the UK.

The inflammation and fluid build-up in the lungs make breathing difficult and can lead to significant respiratory distress if not addressed promptly.

What are the four stages of pneumonia in dogs?

The progression of pneumonia can vary between individuals, but it typically follows four general stages:

• Congestion stage: This is the early stage, where blood vessels in the lungs become congested and fluid starts to accumulate. Dogs may start showing mild symptoms such as lethargy, reduced appetite, and a soft cough.
• Red hepatization stage: In this phase, the lungs take on a firmer texture as red blood cells leak into the alveoli. Owners usually see more obvious respiratory symptoms like a deeper cough, increased breathing effort, and a fever.
• Grey hepatization stage: This is the peak of the illness. White blood cells, particularly neutrophils, flood the lungs, and oxygen exchange is severely impaired. Dogs are often very unwell at this stage and may require hospitalization.
• Resolution stage: If treatment is effective, inflammation begins to subside, and the body gradually clears the infection and debris from the lungs. Recovery begins here, although a cough may persist for a little while afterwards.

How would I know if my dog has pneumonia?

Signs of pneumonia can vary from subtle to severe, but some of the most common symptoms include:

• Coughing: This can range from a soft, moist cough to a harsh, hacking one. It’s often persistent and may worsen with exercise or excitement.
• Lethargy: Dogs with pneumonia are often quieter than usual and may seem reluctant to move or exercise.
• Fever: A high temperature is common, especially in bacterial pneumonia. You might notice your dog feeling warmer than usual, particularly around the ears or belly.
• Increased respiratory rate or effort: You may see your dog panting or breathing more rapidly, or using their abdominal muscles to help breathe (called “abdominal effort”). Their nostrils may flare, and they may stretch their neck out to make breathing easier.
• Nasal discharge: A thick, cloudy discharge from one or both nostrils may be present, especially in bacterial or viral infections.
• Loss of appetite and weight loss: Many dogs with pneumonia lose interest in food and may start to lose weight, particularly if the condition has been going on for a while.
• Bluish gums (cyanosis): In severe cases, low oxygen levels may cause the gums and tongue to turn blue – this is an emergency and needs immediate veterinary care.

If your dog is showing any of these signs, especially in combination, it’s important to seek veterinary attention straight away.

Can dogs recover from pneumonia?

Yes – most dogs can recover from pneumonia, especially if it’s caught early and treated appropriately. The prognosis depends on several factors, including the cause of the pneumonia, the overall health of the dog, and how quickly treatment is started.

With prompt treatment, the survival rate for bacterial pneumonia in dogs is estimated to be around 70–90%, especially in otherwise healthy individuals. However, dogs with underlying conditions or delayed diagnosis may have a poorer prognosis.

Mild cases often recover within one to two weeks, but more severe infections may take several weeks or even longer, especially if lung damage has occurred.

Treatment options

Treatment usually includes:

• Antibiotics (for bacterial infections)
• Nebulization and coupage (to loosen and expel mucus)
• Oxygen therapy (for dogs in respiratory distress)
• Anti-inflammatories (if needed, and under veterinary guidance)
• Fluid therapy (to maintain hydration)
• Hospitalization (in severe cases)

During recovery, rest is essential. Avoid strenuous exercise and monitor your dog closely for any worsening signs. Your vet may recommend follow-up chest X-rays to confirm the pneumonia has fully resolved.

How do dogs get pneumonia?

There are several potential causes of pneumonia in dogs. Understanding these can help reduce the risk:

• Aspiration pneumonia: This occurs when food, liquid, vomit or medication is accidentally inhaled into the lungs. It’s more common in dogs with conditions like laryngeal paralysis, megaesophagus, or during sedation/anesthesia.
• Infectious pneumonia: Caused by viruses (e.g. canine influenza, distemper), bacteria (e.g. Bordetella bronchiseptica), or fungi (e.g. Aspergillus). These are usually spread via airborne droplets or contact with infected dogs.
• Foreign bodies: Inhaled grass seeds or other objects can trigger inflammation and secondary infection in the lungs.
• Immune suppression: Dogs with weakened immune systems (e.g. due to chemotherapy, chronic disease, or very old/young age) are more prone to respiratory infections.
• Poor ventilation and overcrowding: Dogs housed in poorly ventilated areas, such as kennels or shelters, are at greater risk of developing respiratory infections that may progress to pneumonia.

Pneumonia in dogs can be scary, but it doesn’t have to be a worst-case scenario. With early recognition and proper veterinary care, most dogs go on to recover well. It is important that owners trust their instincts.

If something seems “off” with your dog’s breathing or behavior, it’s always better to get them checked sooner rather than later. Remember, fast action can make all the difference.

Read next: Arthritis in dogs

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in July 2025 by Emma Chandley.

Dogs chewing rocks is something vets in practice see time and time again. It always sparks some concern from owners. Whether your pup is picking up pebbles on walks or gnawing on garden stones, it’s natural to wonder why they’re doing it and whether it’s something to worry about. In this article, we’ll dive into the reasons behind this curious behavior and explore what you can do to keep your dog safe.

I have been a practicing veterinary surgeon looking after dogs for nearly 14 years now. During this time I’ve treated several cases where rock-chewing has led to chipped teeth, gut issues, and even emergency surgeries – so it’s a topic I take seriously. As quirky as this habit may seem, it can carry real health risks if left unchecked.

While it’s important to understand the causes, it’s equally vital to offer your dog safe alternatives to satisfy their natural urge to chew. If your pup enjoys gnawing, check out the best long-lasting dog chews for safer, more satisfying options.

Why does my dog keep chewing stones?

If your dog seems to have developed a fondness for rocks, there could be a number of underlying reasons. Here are the most common:

1. Teething in puppies
Just like human babies, puppies experience discomfort when teething. Chewing helps soothe their gums, and sometimes they’ll pick up anything within reach – including rocks. While it’s more common in young dogs, older dogs may continue the habit if it’s been inadvertently reinforced.

2. Boredom or lack of stimulation
Dogs are intelligent, active animals who need both physical and mental stimulation. A bored dog will often find ways to entertain themselves, and chewing rocks might be one of them. This is particularly true for high-energy breeds who don’t get enough exercise or enrichment.

3. Anxiety or stress
Chewing can be a self-soothing behavior, so if your dog is feeling anxious or unsettled, they may turn to repetitive actions like chewing rocks. Separation anxiety, environmental stressors, or changes in routine could all trigger this.

4. Attention-seeking
Some dogs quickly learn that when they pick up a rock, they get a big reaction from their owner – whether it’s shouting, chasing, or trying to swap it. This can accidentally reinforce the behavior.

5. Dietary deficiencies or medical issues
In rare cases, chewing or eating non-food objects (a condition called pica) can be a sign of an underlying health problem, such as a nutritional imbalance, gastrointestinal issue, or even a neurological condition. It’s always best to rule out medical causes with your vet, especially if the behavior starts suddenly.

How do I stop my dog from eating rocks?

If your dog’s developed a taste for stones, don’t worry – there are practical steps you can take to manage and prevent the behavior:

1. Rule out medical causes
Before tackling the behavioral aspect, always get your dog checked by a vet. Blood tests and a physical exam can help rule out pica, (a condition where dogs compulsively eat non-food items) anemia, or other underlying problems.

2. Provide appropriate chews
Make sure your dog has access to safe, vet-approved chews that meet their need to gnaw. These long-lasting dog chews are a great place to start. Rotate toys to keep things interesting and avoid boredom.

3. Increase exercise and mental stimulation
A tired dog is a happy dog! Regular walks, training games, scent work, and puzzle toys can all reduce destructive or unusual behaviors linked to boredom.

4. Use positive reinforcement
If you see your dog walking past a stone without picking it up – make sure you reward them. Treats, praise, or a quick game can positively reinforce the behavior you want. If they do pick up a rock, avoid shouting – instead, offer a trade with a high-value treat and praise when they drop it.

5. Supervise closely on walks
Use a short lead in rocky areas and redirect their attention if they start sniffing around for stones. If your dog is particularly persistent, consider a basket muzzle when out and about – it might not be pretty, but it can be a helpful short-term tool while you work on training.

6. Consider behavior support
If the habit is proving hard to crack, a qualified behaviorist can offer tailored advice. Make sure to work with someone accredited by a recognized organization like the APBC or ABTC.

Is it dangerous for my dog to chew rocks?

Yes – chewing or eating rocks can be extremely dangerous for dogs. Here’s why:

• Broken teeth: Rocks are hard, and a powerful bite can result in fractured teeth. This can lead to pain, infection, and the need for dental surgery.
• Choking risk: Small stones can get lodged in the throat or airway, especially in smaller dogs or puppies.
• Intestinal blockage: If your dog swallows a rock, it can get stuck in the stomach or intestines. This is a surgical emergency and can be life-threatening.
• Internal injuries: Sharp stones can cause tears or perforations in the digestive tract, leading to peritonitis and other serious complications.

If your dog is showing signs of vomiting, reduced appetite, abdominal pain, straining to poop, or lethargy after chewing or swallowing rocks – contact your vet immediately.

Do dogs grow out of eating rocks?

This depends on the cause. Puppies often chew rocks while they are teething and many will grow out of it as they mature and get their adult teeth – especially if they have access to appropriate chews and puppy toys and are positively guided away from the behavior.

However, if the chewing is due to boredom, anxiety, or has been accidentally reinforced, it’s unlikely to go away on its own. Older dogs can become habitual rock-chewers, and without consistent intervention, the behavior can persist into adulthood and even old age.

The key is early management – offer suitable alternatives, reinforce positive behaviors, and seek help if you’re struggling. Most dogs can unlearn the habit with time, patience, and consistency.

While it might seem like a harmless quirk, dog chewing rocks is a behavior that deserves attention. Whether it’s driven by boredom, teething, or stress, there are steps you can take to redirect your dog safely.

Always start by ruling out any medical issues, provide safe chew alternatives, and enrich your dog’s daily routine. And if in doubt, don’t hesitate to reach out to your vet, they are here to help and always have your dog’s best interests at heart.

Read next: Safe dog chews for aggressive chewers and best durable dog toys

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in June 2025 by Emma Chandley.

Do kittens drink water? As a vet, this is a question I get asked very frequently –especially by new kitten owners keen to do the right thing for their furry friends. The truth is, while water is vital for all cats, the way kittens hydrate can vary depending on their age, diet, and environment.

I have been a vet for nearly 14 years, and during this time, I’ve helped many pet parents navigate the ins and outs of kitten care, including feeding, hydration, and health checks. Helping people understand what’s normal behavior in their kittens – and what’s not – is so important to ensure pets are getting the best care at home.

If you're looking to encourage your kitten to drink more water, I recommend trying one of the best pet water fountains, as many cats prefer running water to a stagnant bowl. But more on that shortly! First, let’s explore how kittens drink and how much water is considered normal.

Do kittens drink water?

Yes, kittens absolutely do drink water – but the amount they need and the way they access it depends on their age and whether they're still nursing from their mother.

In the first few weeks of life, kittens get all their hydration from their mother’s milk (or a suitable milk replacer if they’re being hand-reared). During this time, you won’t see them drinking water – their tiny bodies are completely dependent on milk for both nutrition and fluids.

Once kittens start weaning at around four weeks of age, their water intake gradually increases as their reliance on milk decreases. By the time they're six to eight weeks old and eating solid food, they should be offered fresh water at all times.

Kittens aged six to 12 weeks typically drink around 60–100 ml of water per kg of body weight per day – though this varies depending on their diet (wet vs dry food), activity level, and environmental temperature.

To put this in perspective: a 1kg kitten might drink roughly 60–100 ml per day if they’re on a dry diet, but much less if they’re eating wet food, which is about 70–80% water already. So don’t be surprised if your kitten drinks very little from a bowl – they might just be getting plenty of fluid from their food.

How do I encourage my kitten to drink water?

Some kittens are naturally curious and will lap up water from any bowl they can find. Others can be a bit fussier, especially if the bowl is in a noisy area or if the water isn’t refreshed regularly.

Here are a few vet-approved ways to encourage your kitten to drink more water:

• Use a pet fountain: Many cats (including kittens) prefer running water. Pet fountains keep the water fresh and moving, which can be more appealing to your kitten.
• Offer multiple bowls: Place several water bowls around the house so your kitten always has access to water, no matter where they’re playing or napping.
• Choose the right bowl: Shallow ceramic or glass bowls are best, as some kittens dislike the smell or taste of plastic.
• Keep water away from food and litter: Cats instinctively prefer to drink away from where they eat or toilet. This is a behavior rooted in their wild ancestors and can affect their willingness to drink.
• Try adding water to food: If your kitten is on a wet food diet, you can add a little more water to the food to help boost hydration.

If your kitten isn’t drinking at all, it’s important not to panic – especially if they’re eating wet food and otherwise behaving normally. But if they seem lethargic, have dry gums, or are refusing food too, then it’s time to contact your vet.

How to tell if a kitten is dehydrated?

Dehydration in kittens can happen quickly, especially if they’ve had vomiting or diarrhea, are off their food, or are overheating. It’s important to recognize the signs early, as dehydration can be life-threatening in very young animals.

Look out for the following signs of dehydration:

• Lethargy or weakness
• Dry, tacky gums
• Sunken eyes
• Loss of skin elasticity – gently pinch the skin between the shoulder blades; if it doesn’t spring back immediately, your kitten may be dehydrated
• Poor appetite
• Panting or rapid breathing

If you notice any of these symptoms, especially in a kitten under 12 weeks old, it’s crucial to seek veterinary attention straight away. Kittens are less able to compensate for fluid loss than adult cats, and even mild dehydration can escalate quickly.

Should you leave water out for a kitten?

Yes, fresh, clean water should be available to your kitten at all times, including overnight when you’re not there to supervise. Even if your kitten is on a wet food diet and doesn’t seem to drink much, they still need access to water in case they feel thirsty.

Make sure the bowl is clean, ideally washed daily, and topped up with fresh water at least once a day, more often if it's hot or your kitten plays with the bowl! For very young or clumsy kittens, use a sturdy, shallow dish to avoid spills or tipping.

If you’re crate-training or confining your kitten overnight, ensure water is available in a spill-proof bowl. You can even use a fountain if you want to encourage drinking and prevent stagnation.

Remember: establishing good drinking habits early in life helps support kidney and urinary health later on, so it’s well worth the effort now.

So, do kittens drink water? Absolutely, and it’s vital for their growth and well-being. As they wean and move onto solid food, access to fresh, clean water becomes increasingly important. Whether it’s through bowls or fountains, making sure your kitten stays hydrated is one of the best ways you can support their health at home.

Always monitor your kitten’s drinking habits and body language. If you’re ever unsure, it’s never wrong to check in with your vet – we’re here to help you raise a happy, healthy feline friend from day one.

Read next: Why is my cat drinking a lot of water?

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in June 2025 by Emma Chandley.

The 4th of July is an exciting time of year for us humans, but it can be a completely different story for dogs who struggle with anxiety.

From noisy fireworks to busy crowds, there are plenty of things that can cause our pets to feel stressed and worried during this period. While we can’t stop our dogs from hearing the celebrations altogether, we can help them feel more comfortable—and planning ahead is the key to success.

Below, vet Dr MacMillan shares four ways to help your dog feel less anxious on the 4th of July (or during any other major celebration), including training methods, helpful supplements, and preparation tips.

How to keep your dog calm on July 4th

1. Desensitization

If you struggle to find ways to calm your dog during fireworks, desensitization training is one of the best things you can do.

This might sound counterintuitive, but try playing fireworks sounds at a very low volume in your home and, over time, gradually increase the volume. Whenever your dog shows normal behaviors—like relaxing in their bed or playing with toys—reward them with their favorite treat to reinforce the positive response.

Dr MacMillan adds: "This will take time and patience and, for many dogs, is not something that can be rushed. This type of training is best carried out while your dog is very young and before they have developed any aversions, but it can also be done in older animals with anxiety issues."

2. Prepare a safe space

Create a den-like space for your dog to relax in—whether it's a sheet draped over some chairs or a towel placed on top of their crate. The key is to prepare this environment in advance so they have time to use it beforehand and recognize it as a safe area.

Dr MacMillan says, "You can prepare their environment ahead of the 4th of July to help them cope better on the night. Encourage your pet to use this safe space ahead of the celebration night by feeding them in there and putting their favorite toys inside it."

3. Supplements

Dr MacMillan says there are various supplement-style products on the market that could help with anxiety symptoms in dogs. While it can involve some trial and error, it’s worth giving them a try—just be sure to choose a reputable brand.

4. Pheromones

You can buy natural calming, appeasing pheromones that release positive chemicals to help your dog feel calmer and more relaxed. These come in various forms, including plug-in diffusers, sprays for bedding, and collars.

5. Puzzle feeders

It’s well worth investing in one of the best dog puzzle toys—especially if your pet is feeling anxious or bored. Dr MacMillan says they’re a great way to keep your pet occupied while fireworks are going off, diverting their attention to something fun and positive.

While all of the above can definitely help your dog feel more comfortable and accepting of fireworks, consult your vet for advice if your dog is very anxious about loud noises—they might prescribe medication.

Dr MacMillan adds: "Longer term, you should seek help from a qualified pet behaviorist who will help talk you through a more detailed sound desensitization program for your dog so that they will be better prepared for next year."

Read next: Ways to destress your dog and how to calm a reactive dog

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Overheating is dangerous for dogs and can lead to dehydration, seizures, heatstroke, and in some cases, even death. As the weather gets warmer, it becomes more important than ever to know how to keep them cool and prevent these health conditions from developing.

Thousands of dogs die from heatstroke every single year, and a recent study in the UK showed that 75% of cases were caused by exercise, 13% by environmental heat, and 5% by being trapped in hot cars.

If you don't have air conditioning at home, it can feel difficult to keep yourself cool – let alone your pets with their furry coats – but we've shared some top tips below that can help, using things you probably already have lying around.

How to keep your dog cool

Here are six easy ways to keep your dog cool in the summer, recommended by expert vet Dr Joanna Woodnutt:

1. Keep them shaded

Some dogs would rather sit in the sun all day than seek out a cool, sheltered spot. However, it’s important to keep them in the shade on hot days (even if they’d prefer to sunbathe!) – whether that means putting a canopy over their outdoor bed or putting them inside altogether. Always make sure they’re out of direct sunlight.

2. Give them a cooling mat

One of the best ways to help your dog lose heat is by giving them a cool surface to lie on – even better if it’s one of the best cooling mats for dogs. Some of these don’t even need to be put in the freezer beforehand and contain pressure-activated gel that cools when your dog lies on it.

3. Hydrate them

Keeping your dog hydrated on a hot day could save their life. As a pet parent, I know how hard it can be to encourage a dog to drink more – but things like the best pet water fountains and flavored drops have made it so much easier.

4. Get them wet

Getting your dog wet is another great way to cool them down – whether it’s playing a game in the sprinkler, gently hosing them down, or setting up one of the best swimming pools for dogs in a shady spot in the garden. Make sure the water reaches right down to their skin, as the evaporation will help cool them.

If you decide to let them run around in the sprinkler, only allow play for 10 minutes to reduce the risk of water intoxication.

5. Use a fan

There’s nothing better than a cooling fan on a hot day, and most of the time, your dog will appreciate a breeze too. However, if they’re trying to get away from the fan or are afraid of loud noises, you could try using a handheld device instead – some even have the option of misting water too.

6. Homemade ice popsicles

Did you know that dogs enjoy frozen treats just as much as we do? While you shouldn't feed them regular store-bought popsicles that contain sweeteners and ingredients toxic to dogs, you can whip up some of your own at home using a silicone mold – just pour in some water along with their regular food or treats, then freeze.

Signs of heatstroke in dogs

If your dog is panting, seeking shade, or has increased thirst, it means they're too hot and you need to reduce the temperature of their environment.

Heatstroke happens when their body temperature reaches 104–106°F (40–41°C) and they're unable to cool themselves down, which can lead to organ failure, seizures, and death. Keep an eye out for the following signs of heatstroke:

• Panting heavily
• Drooling heavily
• Seeming weak or lethargic
• Having blue, red, or purple gums that feel sticky to the touch
• Vomiting or having diarrhea
• Seeming confused or wobbly
• Shaking or having seizures
• Coughing or wheezing

In this situation, pour tap water on their body, put them in a cool and shady spot, blow air conditioning on them if you can, and take them to the vet immediately (call ahead to let them know you're on your way). Whatever you do, never put a wet towel over them – it actually has the opposite effect of what you're trying to achieve.

Being prepared for hot weather and recognizing the signs of overheating and heatstroke could save your dog’s life.

Read next: How to cool down a dog and signs it's too hot to walk your dog

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

When comparing the American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier, you’d be forgiven for thinking they’re the same breed. At first glance, they look incredibly similar – but as a vet with nearly 14 years of experience working with both breeds, I can confidently say there are important differences in their size, temperament, and care requirements.

I’ve worked with lots of bully breeds in clinics and surgical theatres during my time in general practice. I know first-hand how much confusion there is around these two breeds – especially given their controversial reputations – and that’s why it’s important to dig deeper into what sets them apart.

If you’re trying to decide which breed is the right fit for you and your family, or you simply want to learn more, this guide covers everything from appearance and personality to exercise needs and health. You can also check out our full breed profiles for American Pit Bull Terriers and Staffordshire Bull Terriers for more in-depth info.

Size: American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The American Pit Bull Terrier is generally taller and leaner than the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Adult American Pit Bull Terriers typically stand around 17–21 inches (43–53 cm) tall and weigh between 30–65 pounds (13.5–29.5 kg), depending on sex and build.

In contrast, the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, often affectionately called a "Staffy," is more compact and muscular. They usually measure 14–16 inches (36–41 cm) at the shoulder and weigh around 24–38 pounds (11–17 kg).

So, if you're looking for a slightly larger, more athletic dog, the Pit Bull might be more suitable. If you prefer a sturdy, stockier companion with a slightly smaller footprint, the Staffy is a great choice.

Appearance: American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Both breeds share that characteristic strong, muscular build with broad chests and short, sleek coats. However, American Pit Bulls tend to have a longer muzzle and a more athletic frame. Their ears are often cropped in the US (though this practice is banned in the UK), and they have a noticeable tuck-up in the abdomen.

Staffordshire Bull Terriers, on the other hand, are blockier and more compact. They have a shorter, broader face, a famously wide “smile,” and well-defined cheek muscles. Their ears are typically rose-shaped and left natural.

In terms of coat colors, both breeds come in a wide variety – from brindle, black, and blue, to fawn, red, and white. Patterns can include solid, patched, or piebald. Their short, single coats mean they don’t have the insulation of double-coated breeds, so they may feel the cold more in winter.

Intelligence and Trainability: American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Both breeds are intelligent, eager to please, and highly trainable – but they also require consistent handling and early socialization. Pit Bulls, in particular, thrive on positive reinforcement and mental stimulation. Without it, they can become bored and may develop unwanted behaviors.

Staffies are known for their clownish personality and affectionate nature. They’re typically very responsive to training, especially when rewards (and cuddles!) are involved. Their people-focused attitude makes them natural companions, and they often excel in canine sports and obedience classes.

Top training tips include:

• Start early with socialization and reward-based training.
• Use short, upbeat sessions to keep their attention.
• Avoid harsh corrections – both breeds are sensitive and can become anxious or frustrated with punishment.

Exercise Needs: American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Both the American Pit Bull Terrier and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier are energetic dogs that need plenty of physical and mental stimulation. Daily walks, structured playtime, and off-lead exercise in a secure area are essential.

Pit Bulls typically have higher stamina levels and might enjoy longer runs or agility activities. Staffies, while still active, are often happy with shorter but more frequent bursts of exercise.

A bored bully breed is a destructive one, so interactive toys, scent games, and obedience work can be a huge help in keeping them mentally satisfied.

Grooming: American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Grooming is one area where both breeds are refreshingly low-maintenance. Their short coats shed moderately year-round but don’t require trimming or special care.

Weekly brushing with a rubber grooming mitt or a bristle brush will help remove loose hairs and distribute skin oils. This keeps their coat sleek and healthy.

You can check out the best dog brushes if you’re not sure where to start. Don't forget to check and clean their ears, trim their nails regularly, and brush their teeth a few times a week to support good dental hygiene.

Health Considerations: American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Both breeds are generally robust, but like all dogs, they can be prone to certain hereditary and lifestyle-related health conditions.

American Pit Bull Terriers may be more predisposed to:

• Hip dysplasia
• Allergies (especially related to skin)
• Hypothyroidism
• Heart disease

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can be more at risk of:

• Hereditary cataracts and other eye issues
• Elbow dysplasia
• Skin allergies
• L-2-Hydroxyglutaric Aciduria (a rare but serious neurological condition)

Both breeds benefit from:

• Annual vet checkups
• Weight monitoring
• A balanced diet
• Parasite control
• Responsible breeding (health-tested parents are essential!)
• Pet insurance is also a good idea, especially since treatment for some of the above conditions can be costly

Owner suitability: American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier

When it comes to choosing between the American Pit Bull Terrier vs Staffordshire Bull Terrier, your lifestyle and experience level should guide your decision.

Pit Bulls are best suited to active, experienced owners who understand the importance of firm but kind training and early socialization. They do best in homes where someone is around most of the day, and they need secure, high-fenced gardens due to their strength and agility.

Staffordshire Bull Terriers are often a better choice of dog for first-time owners, thanks to their affectionate and forgiving nature. They tend to be very family-oriented and usually do well with children if socialized from a young age.

However, both breeds need dedicated training and exercise, and they are not the right fit for anyone who can’t commit to daily walks, mental enrichment, and consistent routines.

If you're considering one of these brilliant breeds, take the time to meet both types and speak with vets, trainers, and reputable rescue centers. With the right environment, both the American Pit Bull Terrier and the Staffordshire Terrier make loving, loyal, and endlessly entertaining companions.

Read next: American Staffordshire Terrier or Dogs that get mistaken for pitbulls

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in June 2025 by Emma Chandley.

How to stop a dog from chewing on wood is a question I’m asked regularly in consultations – particularly by frustrated pet parents whose dogs have taken a liking to furniture legs, skirting boards, or even trees in the garden.

Chewing is a natural behavior for dogs, but when it’s directed at inappropriate items, it can be destructive and even dangerous. As a vet working in general practice, I’ve seen firsthand the complications that can arise from this habit – from splinters lodged in gums to serious gastrointestinal obstructions.

Below, I’ll guide you through why dogs chew on wood, what you can do to stop it, and whether popular methods like vinegar are truly safe and effective. I’ll also explain why punishment isn’t the answer and what to do instead. My advice is based on clinical experience, behavioral science, and what actually works in real homes with real dogs.

If you're looking for safe alternatives to satisfy your dog’s chewing instincts, I highly recommend checking out our best long-lasting dog chews guide. It’s packed with vet-approved options that can keep your pup busy and your furniture intact.

How to stop a dog from chewing on wood furniture

The first step in stopping your dog from chewing wood furniture is to figure out why they’re doing it. Are they bored? Teething? Anxious? Once you understand the cause, you can tailor your approach.

Start by removing temptation. Block access to particularly chewed spots with furniture rearrangement or safe baby gates, especially when you’re not supervising. Apply dog-safe deterrent sprays to areas that can’t be moved – these usually have a bitter or citrusy taste that dogs find off-putting.

At the same time, redirect the chewing behavior. Provide appropriate chew toys and encourage your dog to use them. When you see them chewing the right thing, praise them immediately and offer a treat – this builds positive reinforcement for desirable behavior.

Be sure your dog’s getting enough physical and mental stimulation. A tired dog is far less likely to chew destructively. Interactive toys, regular walks, training sessions, and games like hide and seek can make a huge difference.

Why do dogs chew on wood?

Dogs chew for a variety of reasons, and not all of them are behavioral problems. Puppies chew when they’re teething to relieve discomfort, just like human babies. Adult dogs may chew to explore their environment, relieve boredom, or cope with stress and anxiety.

Chewing can also become a learned behavior. If your dog once got your attention by chewing a table leg, they might continue to do it, even if that attention was negative. Some dogs also enjoy the texture or taste of wood, especially if it’s from the garden and has been weathered or carries the scent of animals.

In rarer cases, chewing may be linked to a medical condition such as gastrointestinal upset, dental issues, or a nutritional deficiency. If your dog’s chewing seems excessive or is accompanied by other symptoms like vomiting, diarrhea, or weight loss, it’s worth booking a vet check to rule out any underlying issues.

Does vinegar stop dogs from chewing wood?

White vinegar is sometimes suggested as a homemade deterrent to stop dogs from chewing on wood. The strong smell and sour taste may be enough to put some dogs off. However, this method isn’t always reliable, and for some dogs, it can actually be irritating.

Vinegar is generally safe when used in small quantities and diluted (typically one part vinegar to two parts water). But be careful. Spraying strong vinegar solutions on porous wood can damage the finish, and some dogs may react to the smell with sneezing or avoidance of the whole area, which may not be ideal if it’s somewhere they normally rest or eat.

From a veterinary perspective, I’d suggest trying purpose-made deterrent sprays first. These are specifically formulated to be safe and effective, and they’re much more palatable (or rather, unpalatable!) to dogs.

If you do decide to try vinegar, always patch test on a small, hidden part of the furniture first and observe your dog’s reaction closely.

Should you punish a dog for chewing on furniture?

It’s important not to punish your dog for chewing on furniture, even if it feels like the obvious response in the moment. Dogs don’t understand punishment in the way we do. If you scold them after the fact, they won’t connect the reprimand with the chewing and may just become confused or anxious.

Even if you catch them in the act, harsh punishment can damage your bond and increase stress, which can worsen destructive behavior. Instead, focus on positive reinforcement. Praise and reward them when they choose appropriate items to chew. Redirect them gently if they start chewing on the wrong thing.

If you need guidance on how to use rewards-based training effectively, you can read up on positive reinforcement for dogs.

Chewing is a normal, healthy activity for dogs, but when they start gnawing on your furniture or garden fencing, it becomes a problem. Understanding the underlying cause is key to resolving it. With patience, consistency, and the right tools, you can teach your dog what’s appropriate to chew and protect your home in the process.

The best way to start is with behavior redirection and environmental management, using safe deterrents and plenty of positive reinforcement. And remember – it’s always worth checking with your vet if the chewing is excessive or seems out of character, to rule out any health concerns.

Read next: Safe dog chews for aggressive chewers and best durable dog toys. Or, why is my dog chewing rocks?

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in June 2025 by Emma Chandley.

Can dogs chew on corn cobs? It’s a question vets hear time and time again – especially during summer, when barbecues are in full swing and corn on the cob is on every plate. As a small animal vet with nearly 14 years’ experience, I’ve seen first-hand the consequences of feeding dogs well-meaning but unsuitable leftovers.

Corn cobs might seem harmless, but they can cause some issues for our canine companions including serious problems such as intestinal blockages – often requiring emergency surgery to remove. That’s why it’s so important to be well-informed about what’s safe for your dog to chew on and what’s best kept out of reach.

If your dog loves to chew, there are plenty of vet-approved options that are both safe and satisfying. You can check out some of the best long-lasting dog chews to keep your pup entertained and out of harm’s way. But first, let’s take a closer look at whether corn cobs really make the cut as a safe chew.

Can dogs chew corn cobs?

The short answer is no – dogs should not chew on corn cobs, even if they seem to enjoy them. While corn itself isn’t inherently toxic to dogs (we’ll come onto that shortly), the cob is a different story.

Corn cobs are fibrous, tough, and poorly digestible, which means that if your dog swallows a chunk – or even worse, the whole cob – it can easily become lodged in the intestines.

This can cause a dangerous gastrointestinal blockage, which is a life-threatening condition and almost always requires surgery to resolve. I’ve sadly seen many dogs rushed into theatre after snatching a cob from the bin or the BBQ leftovers, often with owners unaware of the risks until it’s too late.

Even if your dog only chews the cob and doesn’t swallow it whole, small fragments can still break off and cause internal issues, such as irritation, partial blockages, or even perforation in rare cases. So while it might seem like a harmless chew, it’s a major no-no in the vet world.

Can dogs eat corn?

So, if the cob is dangerous, what about the corn kernels themselves? Good news – dogs can eat corn, as long as it’s been properly prepared and provided it is served in moderation.

Corn is a source of carbohydrates, fiber, and essential nutrients like vitamin B and magnesium. Many commercial dog foods even contain corn as a component of their grain blend. So there’s no need to panic if your dog has nibbled a few kernels off your plate.

However, corn should always be served off the cob, plain (no butter, salt, or seasoning), and in small amounts. Too much can cause digestive upset, especially in dogs with sensitive tummies or grain intolerances. And never allow your dog to gnaw on a cob just to get at the – remove the kernels yourself first and supervise your dog while they eat.

Dangers of feeding corn to your dog

Let’s take a closer look at the main dangers of feeding corn – especially on the cob – to your dog:

• Intestinal blockage: This is the number one concern. A swallowed corn cob can get lodged in your dog’s stomach or intestines and will almost always require surgical removal. Symptoms include vomiting, lethargy, abdominal pain, and lack of appetite. This is classed as a veterinary emergency.
• Choking hazard: Even if the cob isn’t swallowed whole, small bits can break off and pose a choking risk, especially in small breeds or enthusiastic gulpers. Ensure you know what to do if your dog is choking.
• Digestive irritation: The fibrous material of the cob can irritate the gut lining, potentially causing inflammation, vomiting, or diarrhea.
• Seasoning toxicity: Butter, salt, garlic, and spices often added to corn at barbecues can be harmful or toxic to dogs, leading to gastrointestinal upset. If your dog consumes heavily buttered corn, they may ingest too much fat, which can trigger pancreatitis – a painful and potentially serious condition requiring vet treatment. Make sure you are aware of other foods that dogs shouldn’t eat too.

If your dog has managed to grab a corn cob, it’s best to call your vet straight away, even if they seem fine initially. Early intervention can prevent a minor problem from becoming a major one.

Dog chew alternatives

If you’re looking for something safe, satisfying, and vet-approved for your dog to chew on, you’re in luck – there are plenty of safer alternatives to corn cobs available.

• Natural rubber toys: They can be stuffed with dog-safe treats or peanut butter (make sure it is xylitol-free) for a long-lasting chew that also provides mental stimulation.
• Nylon chew bones: Specifically designed to be tough and long-lasting without splintering. Make sure to pick veterinary-safe nylon chews (like those from Nylabone Puppy line), which are designed to be safe for developing teeth. Avoid very hard nylon chews that can fracture teeth, and always supervise your dog when giving a chew bone.
• Dental chews: Help keep your dog’s teeth clean while giving them something safe to gnaw on. Always make sure you choose a chew approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council.
• Raw carrots or sweet potato slices: Great natural options for dogs that love to crunch, though they should always be given under supervision.

Corn cobs might seem like a harmless leftover to toss your dog during BBQ season, but they pose serious risks that no pet parent should ignore. Dogs should never chew on corn cobs, due to the danger of intestinal blockage, choking, and digestive upset. While dogs can enjoy corn kernels in moderation, it’s essential to keep them cob-free and plain.

If you’re ever in doubt about what your dog can safely chew, stick to purpose-made chews and vet-recommended treats. Not only will your pup be safer, but you’ll avoid the stress of an unexpected trip to the emergency vet.

Read next: Best durable dog toys, why is my dog chewing rocks and can dogs have fish skins?

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in June 2025 by Emma Chandley.

The Clumber Spaniel gains its namesake from Clumber Park in Nottinghamshire, UK, and they were originally bred at the end of the 18th century as hunting dogs designed to work in thick cover. Though they are the heaviest spaniel breed, they are true gentle giants. With their large heads, droopy eyes and floppy ears, they are a gentlemanly and mellow addition to a family home, though they are serious scent-hunters when out and about.

These friendly spaniels are easygoing and easy to please, and though they can be wary of strangers, they are not prone to bark or show aggression. They get along well with children and other dogs, but as with all working breeds, they benefit from early training and socialization.

If you think a Clumber Spaniel is the perfect match for you, read on to find out more about this British breed, with expert advice from vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

Do Clumber Spaniels shed?

Yes, Clumber Spaniels are known for their shedding. They have a double coat made up of a dense undercoat and a water-resistant outer coat. The coat is medium in length, with feathering around their chest, legs, tail and ears.

During seasonal shedding periods, more frequent brushing with a de-shedding tool can help you to keep on top of the increased hair loss, keeping them – and your home – looking tidier.

What grooming needs does a Clumber Spaniel have?

Thanks to the Clumber Spaniel’s double coat, regular grooming is a must to avoid tangles and matting.

“Brushing a Clumber Spaniel’s coat a couple of times a week is recommended to keep it looking its best,” confirms Dr MacMillan. “You may also need to trim their feathery legs, paws, and ears to keep them neat and tangle-free.”

As with all dogs, daily toothbrushing is recommended, along with monthly nail trims. Keeping their long, droopy ears clean will also help to keep ear infections at bay.

Are Clumber Spaniels good family dogs?

Yes, Clumber Spaniels are renowned for being really great family dogs. Though they are a powerful breed, they are gentle and laid back in the home, and they’re a steady and dependable companion if the right training has been provided.

“Clumber Spaniels are known for being patient, gentle and affectionate, which makes them great family pets,” says Dr MacMillan. “They are good with children, provided they have had the right early socialization and training.”

They are an intelligent breed and are easy to please, though they can show some stubbornness and like to think things through. Keep training sessions short and sweet to maintain their interest, and focus on positive, reward-based training to get the best from your Clumber Spaniel.

And bear in mind their history as a working dog – though they are mellow at home, they do need enough exercise to prevent any boredom. They enjoy long walks with plenty of opportunities for sniffing – while they are slower-moving than many spaniels, they still have plenty of stamina.

Are Clumber Spaniels good with cats?

Although Clumber Spaniels are working dogs, they are generally considered to be a good choice of dog for a home with cats, as long as they are introduced to them at a young age.

“Clumber Spaniels are calmer and less energetic than most other spaniel breeds, which makes them a good choice if you have cats,” explains Dr MacMillan. “However, you must ensure that your Clumber is introduced to cats from an early age and that any interactions are supervised and positive.”

Do Clumber Spaniels drool a lot?

Yes, Clumber Spaniels are a breed known to drool a lot, thanks to their droopy lips. This can make the coat around their face and chest sticky, meaning regular brushing is important to prevent matting. Their face shape can also mean they are prone to snoring.

Clumber Spaniel common health problems

Clumber Spaniels are prone to “many different” health complaints, says Dr MacMillan.

Due to their characteristic droopy facial features, various eye complaints can be common.

“Entropion (rolling inwards) of the eyelids can cause watery eyes and painful eye ulcers,” she explains. “Ectropion (eyelids that roll outwards) can contribute to dry eye and eye infections.

“They are also prone to hereditary eye conditions like cataracts and progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), but health screening parent dogs can reduce the risk of these problems being passed on to their offspring,” Dr MacMillan adds.

The Clumber Spaniel’s droopy ears are another consideration to bear in mind, as they can be prone to ear infections.

“Floppy ears trap heat and moisture in the ear canal, which is the perfect breeding ground for yeast and bacteria. Underlying skin allergies can also increase their chances of suffering from ear flare-ups,” explains Dr MacMillan.

The breed’s long backs can be another cause for concern, as Dr MacMillan confirms: “Intervertebral disc disease (IVDD) is common in this breed due to their long backs. IVDD can cause pain, paralysis, and incontinence.”

As with many pedigree breeds, developmental joint issues such as hip and elbow dysplasia are also seen frequently in Clumber Spaniels. Dr MacMillan explains that this can lead to “pain, mobility issues and the early onset of arthritis”.

Should I buy a Clumber Spaniel?

If you’re after a gentle giant who enjoys long, leisurely walks, then the Clumber Spaniel could be for you. These mellow gentlemen are a welcome addition to any family home, getting on well with children and other pets, and they’re the perfect snuggle buddy after a long day.

They’re not prone to barking or aggression, and though they can be aloof with strangers, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more loyal dog breed to add to your family.

These friendly dogs can be a good choice for first-time dog owners, as long as you’re prepared to put in the time and effort to train and socialize your new pup. However, do be aware of their grooming needs – particularly thanks to their shedding and drooling – and ensure they have annual health check-ups with the vet to catch any potential health issues early on.

Read next: King Charles Cavalier vs Cocker Spaniel or Cocker vs Springer

Did you know there are was to stimulate your pet without food? We all know that pets need both mental and physical stimulation to thrive, but treats aren't the only way to ensure their overall well-being. While food-based rewards can be effective, but over-reliance on them can lead to boredom, hassling you for food, and unhealthy weight gain.

True enrichment comes from tapping into your pet’s instincts, curiosity, and playfulness. Whether you live with a high-energy dog, curious cat, or another clever companion, there are numerous ways you can enrich their day and strengthen your bond.

With the help of vet Dr Hannah Godfrey, we've come up with 20 ideas for stimulating your pet without using a single treat. From brain games and sensory experiences to physical challenges and social interactions, these activities should keep your pet engaged, happy, and thriving.

Best of all, they rely on your time, attention, and imagination – things your pet values far more than a snack (though, we’re sure he won’t say no to one of them either!).

How to stimulate your pet (without food)

1. Try puzzles and games

Dr Hannah Godfrey expresses how important we, the humans, are to our animals’ love of life. It’s not as simple as buying them a toy and leaving them to it, we should engage in their curiosity and sense of fun. You’ll likely have to teach them how the puzzle works and guide them towards how to solve it themselves.

“Many pets love to play with their owners, and the reward doesn’t have to be treats, it can just be having your full attention and praise,” she says. “Look for dog or cat toys and activities that will get them thinking.”

2. Hide their favorite toy

If your pet has a favourite toy, Dr Godfrey suggests a game that will make the most of this.

“Hide their favorite toy, and reward them by playing with them when they find it,” she says.

Remember that animals’ sense of smell is vastly superior to ours, so you can be quite inventive with your hiding place once they understand the goal of the game.

3. Set up different smells for them

It’s estimated that a large proportion (75–90%) of our enjoyment of food is due to its smell rather than taste. Given that animals’ olfactory senses tend to be far superior to ours, make the most of this!

Dr Godfrey advises: “It’s not just food that stimulates your pet; why not try to stimulate other senses by finding some pet-friendly scents and creating a smelling station?

“You could even have them try to find the source of the smell, which could be anything, from a small amount of meat or fish stock, to catnip or pet-safe herbs.”

4. Set up an obstacle course

Who doesn’t love a home-made assault course! Moreover, it’s great for burning off energy, as well as mentally stimulating.

“Help your pet have fun, stretch their legs, and practice crawling, climbing, or jumping by setting up a short assault course and encouraging them to have a go,” says Dr Godfrey.

“Remember – if you’re not using treats to encourage them, you’ll have to give them lots of positive reinforcement by petting them and praising them.”

5. Learn some tricks

“Many pets love to use their brains and learn new tricks – it fights boredom and helps them bond with you,” says Dr Godfrey. “Start with simple commands, then see if you can build up to learn something more complicated, like retrieving certain toys or playing dead.”

Patience and practice are key.

6. Visit a new place

If you have a dog, they might get bored with their usual walking route, where they meet the same dogs and the same people – and so might we!

“Why not explore somewhere new together – perhaps the beach, a hike in the mountains, or a dog activity center?” suggests Dr Godfrey.

Luckily, there are plenty of fun places for dog walks in the US you can try out. And such adventures are not limited to canines.

“If you’ve got a cat, you can still give them a change of scenery by taking them out on a leash (in the garden if they’re an indoor cat, or somewhere quiet if not),” Hannah says. “You could even build a catio so that your indoor cat gets some time outside experiencing new things.”

7. Hide and seek

Many animals appear to enjoy playing hide and seek – some even making excited noises when they manage to discover the hiding human. If you watch dogs, and particularly cats, in nature, they often engage in hiding games, which is thought to link back to their natural hunting instincts. However, there’s no jeopardy on home turf, just a safe and fun way to stimulate their minds.

Dr Godfrey describes this as a “level up” from hiding toys.

“Some dogs love to play hide and seek with their owners, so why not find a great hiding place and wait for the excitement when they find you. If they’re struggling, you can whistle or call them to get their attention!”

8. Mirror play

Most domestic pets do not recognize themselves in a mirror, however, many will engage in playful behavior on spotting the “other” cat or dog in the glass. They tend to react with curiosity, suggesting it’s a potential idea to stimulate them, but if they show signs of hostility or aggression, it’s clearly time to find a different game.

9. Name that toy

According to leading canine researcher Stanley Coren, the average dog can learn around 165 words – and the smartest dog breeds can learn up to 250. This means that you can, with patience and training, give names to certain toys and teach dogs to associate those words with them. Start with just one and see how you go!

Cats are also capable of associating words with experiences and simple commands, though there is less research available on their learning.

10. Window watching

Many animals seem to take pleasure in looking out of the window, as it provides them with mental stimulation. Cats are curious by nature and enjoy observing the world and listening to the noises. Dogs, too, typically find window watching an enriching experience, though you have to take care that they aren’t starting to become territorial. Look out for barking or any other aggressive tendencies.

And, of course, always ensure any window-watching vantage points are safe so that the animal cannot jump out.

11. Tug of war

There is some debate over the value of playing tug of war with your dog. There isn’t any research that validates the argument that tug of war increases aggression. For most dogs, it serves as a fun game that can build confidence and deepen the bond between dog and handler.

If your dog is a resource guarder or gets very easily over-animated, tug of war is not the best option, however. Play it with a nice long rope and a low-value toy, in case the dog gets over-enthusiastic, and teach commands so that he understands when the game is over.

12. Agility training

Agility training is more commonly associated with dogs, but cats can benefit, too. It taps into their natural agility, keeps them active, and provides physical and mental stimulation.

You don’t have to go to a professional set-up – you can create an agility area in your home using basic kit, such as cardboard boxes for tunnels, bamboo sticks for jumps, and so on.

13. Laser games

Chasing laser pointers is not without risk, but is loved by some. It makes the most of their natural hunting instincts and their love of pouncing on their “prey”.

This game is probably best left to the feline population, as dogs tend to find it frustrating when it triggers their prey drive, but they fail to catch their target. It can, however, lead them to become obsessed with lights and shadows.

14. Clicker training

Nearly all pets benefit from clicker training, and it is a satisfying and useful way to stimulate them. It’s a positive reinforcement technique that is typically rewarded by an edible treat, but you can use other motivations, such as a scratch or a favorite toy. If your pet is already conditioned to understand the clicker, they are less likely to need food as a motivator.

15. Pet playdates

Playdates with other animals are a great opportunity for socialization, play, physical activity, and mental stimulation. Dogs, in particular, are pack animals, and therefore, companionship with other pooches can be beneficial for their overall well-being.

If your dog is not yet used to meeting other dogs, make sure you meet on neutral territory and start gradually, with one well-mannered, well-trained dog at a time. You can join community walks with other dog walkers and find that you both benefit from communion with like-minded humans and pups!

16. Swimming

Not all dogs are naturals in the water, in fact, there are some breeds that can’t swim. However, for those breeds that love swimming, it is a low-impact form of exercise that gives them great pleasure, burns off plenty of excess energy, and provides mental and physical stimulation. Invest in a life jacket if you have any concerns.

Felines are renowned for being hydrophobic, but in reality, there are many that actually enjoy a swim, and many cat breeds that like water. Even if they don’t want to embark on a spot of “cat-paddle”, they love playing with water, whether it’s from the faucet or dipping a paw in the pool.

17. Grooming

Grooming can be a positive experience for both dogs and cats, though it’s fair to say that some enjoy it more than others! It can help enhance the bond between you if introduced gently and gradually. Dogs in particular often find the brushing sensation pleasurable. Furthermore, it gives them that one-on-one time they relish.

18. Massage

Learning to massage your pet can provide them with an enriching experience, deepen the bond between you, and help increase mobility and circulation. They’ll enjoy that you are spending time with them alone. Some prefer more of a gentle stroke, while others like a deeper scratch. Always watch your pet to see how it’s reacting – less is more!

For pets that suffer from conditions such as arthritis and anxiety, massage can be hugely beneficial in soothing both physical and mental stress. Why not treat your cat to a spa day?

19. Singing to them

The jury is out on how beneficial music and singing are to our pets. Research indicates that classical music can have a calming effect. Anecdotally, many pet owners insist that their cat or dog loves it when they sing to them, and it certainly seems to have a stimulating effect, whether it provokes curiosity or surprise. Some people even report that their pet will try to yodel back!

20. Beach trip

There are few dogs that do not treasure a trip to a pet-friendly beach. Vast expanses of sand, off-leash exercise, new scents, and waves rushing down the shoreline provide a wonderfully stimulating day out. Remember to take fresh drinking water, plenty of poop bags and a parasol to provide your pet with shade if it’s a sunny day.

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Here are 20 pet symptoms pet parents should never ignore. As pet owners, we wish that our furry companions could tell us when something’s wrong. But animals have their own ways of signaling distress, discomfort, or disease, and it’s up to us to recognize those red flags.

While some signs may seem minor at first glance, they can often be the tip of the iceberg when it comes to your pet’s health. Whether you’re dealing with a lethargic dog or a cat who’s suddenly skipping meals, early attention can mean the difference between a quick fix and a serious medical issue.

Vet Dr Hannah Godfrey outlines the following 20 symptoms that you should never ignore, even if they don’t appear life-threatening in the moment. Some of these signs could point to underlying conditions that worsen over time, while others may signal an immediate need for veterinary care.

This isn’t to spark panic – but to empower you with knowledge so you can act quickly, and confidently if something seems off. When it comes to your pet’s wellbeing, trust your instincts – you know them best.

20 pet health symptoms you shouldn’t ignore

1. Blue or purple gums

Dr Hannah Godfrey says that blue or purple gums – known as cyanosis – require urgent veterinary attention.

“This is a sign that there isn’t enough oxygen in your pet’s blood,” she says. “It’s usually a consequence of a breathing or heart problem and is an emergency.”

2. Not eating for more than 24 hours

Whether going without food for 24 hours is serious depends partly on the kind of pet and whether they are old or very young. However, any loss of appetite should be closely monitored.

Some animals, such as hamsters, can go without food for a couple of days, and many animals will skip meals. Is it possible that your pet has scavenged some alternative food source?

But 24 hours’ fasting is nonetheless a warning sign. Check other signs that the pet is well in himself – whether they have energy, are drinking, and they seem bright and alert. Particularly if the inappetence is accompanied by other symptoms of ill health, seek urgent veterinary advice.

3. Not drinking for 24 hours

Dogs and cats can survive longer without water, but after 24 hours, dehydration starts to become a concern, and you should seek veterinary attention.

You’ll need to know – why aren’t they drinking? There are many reasons – of varying severity – why a pet might choose not to drink, from disliking the water source to the weather, from stress and anxiety to underlying illness.

Small pets such as hamsters drink very little compared to dogs, but you should always ensure their water bottle has no blockages and the water is clean and fresh.

4. Blood in their poop

Vet Hannah Godfrey says: “If your pet has blood in their feces, it could be simple colitis, however, it’s best to get the vet to check that there’s nothing more serious going on, especially if they’ve never had similar symptoms before.”

It can signal that something is seriously amiss, but equally should not cause panic. There are plenty of more benign reasons why there might be blood, such as minor irritation, straining, or treatable worms.

A one-off small amount, if your pet is acting normally and in good health, should not be cause for concern, but consult your vet if you have any doubts. Black poop and loose stools with jelly-like blood are signs to seek immediate veterinary advice.

5. Retching without vomiting

“Unproductive retching, where your dog seems to be trying to vomit but is unable to, can be a sign of a serious condition called gastric dilatation and volvulus [GDV], where the stomach fills with air and twists,” warns vet Hannah Godfrey. “Unfortunately, a GDV can be fatal, especially without prompt treatment.”

The bottom line is that retching – or dry heaving – can be a sign of a number of serious problems as well as more minor ones. For this reason, it’s best to consult your vet, as the issues could be life-treatening – besides GDV, it could be due to a blockage, ingested toxins, or breathing difficulties.

6. Excessive drooling

The important thing here is to know your own pet. Some dog breeds are known for drooling, but if the amount of saliva production changes, that is a sign that something is amiss.

Vet Hannah Godfrey advises: “If your cat or dog is drooling excessively, it could mean that there’s something lodged in their esophagus, they’ve eaten or licked something caustic, or there’s inflammation or even a tumor in their mouth.”

7. A sudden bloated or distended belly

A swollen belly requires urgent veterinary attention, as it can indicate gastric dilatation-volvulus (also known as bloat), which can be fatal. Other serious conditions, such as a tumor, intestinal blockage, or infection, are also a possibility. Do not give your pet food or water while you are waiting for veterinary advice, nor attempt to treat it at home.

It can be a sign of other, less serious conditions, such as over-eating, eating too fast and parasites – your vet will be able to advise.

8. Collapse

We’re sure you don’t need us to tell you that a pet that collapses is always a veterinary emergency, even if they seem to recover, as the vet will need to determine the cause. Collapse can be due to a wide range of factors, such as cardiovascular or neurological issues, epilepsy, low blood sugar, heatstroke, and exhaustion.

As always with a veterinary emergency, do not panic. Pets can collapse and make a full recovery, so it is vital to find out why it has happened.

9. Seizures

The most common cause of seizures in pets is epilepsy, but there are several other potential factors, such as poisoning, tumors, head injuries, disease, and metabolic disorders. Whatever you suspect, consult your vet as something is clearly amiss.

As well as seeking veterinary help, clear the area around them during their seizure for their safety, and do not try to restrain them or put anything in their mouth. Try to time the seizure so that you can inform the vet.

10. Bleeding that won’t stop with pressure

Like humans, pets suffer cuts and injuries, causing bleeding. Most cuts can be treated with simple first aid, but if the bleeding is heavy and persistent, or you cannot stop it after 10–15 minutes of applying pressure, you should consult a vet.

Look out also for allied symptoms such as pale gums, breathing difficulties, lethargy, and other signs of shock.

11. Difficulty breathing

Some pets, particularly brachycephalic animals, have breathing problems and often make a noise simply inhaling and exhaling. So it’s a case of knowing what is normal for your own pet. However, if you notice that they are struggling to breathe, making an abnormal noise, or have blue gums, it’s a warning sign to call your vet immediately.

12. Regular coughing

Coughing now and again is a common problem, but a regular cough should ring alarm bells. Most viruses are mild and the pet can recover quickly, but if the cough is persistent or intense, the pet is coughing up mucus or blood, or there are accompanying signs of ill health, such as breathing problems or lethargy, seek veterinary advice.

13. Vomiting even after drinking

It is not normal for pets to throw up after drinking water, however, it may simply be due to drinking too fast on a hot day.

However, if your pet is nauseous and vomiting after drinking when their stomach is empty, this indicates there might be a more serious problem. Parasites, internal infections, gastrointestinal issues, or an esophageal blockage can also cause vomiting.

14. Seeming weak or unable to stand

Weakness is a vague sign that all is not well with your pet. The degree of alarm will depend on their age and stage. For instance, the very young and old are weaker than those in the prime of life, while animals with underlying conditions such as arthritis may be unwilling to stand or to get up from their sleeping position.

While all pets may experience some degree of lethargy from time to time – weather, tiredness from a long walk, or a mild virus will have an effect – but persistent weakness is likely to be a sign of a more serious issue.

15. Scooting or licking their bottom

Scooting is when a pet drags their bottom along the ground, as though they are trying to scratch or alleviate some discomfort in that area.

While not typically an emergency, scooting often indicates that your pet needs veterinary intervention. Possible causes are blocked or infected anal glands, or parasites. Look out for redness, soreness, or discharge, which may indicate infection.

16. A yellow or orange tinge to their skin, gums, or eyes

A yellow tinge to the skin, gums, and eyes is a symptom of the disease jaundice. The discoloration indicates an underlying condition, which can be life-threatening if not treated, so seek veterinary help immediately.

Jaundice may be due to liver disease, a problem with the bile duct, or certain toxins.

17. Very pale or white gums

Gums are a great indicator of the health status of your pet. They should be salmon pink, so if you spot that their gums are pale or white, it’s a sign that something is amiss. Pale gums may indicate a serious issue, such as anaemia or internal bleeding, so call your vet at once.

18. Severe diarrhea

Some variation in stool quality can be expected – it can vary according to changes in diet, exercise, and anxiety – but severe diarrhea is a red flag. Initially, you can monitor your pet for other accompanying signs of illness, but if it does not clear up after 24 hours, seek veterinary help.

Special attention should be given to very young or senior pets, those with underlying conditions, or if you suspect they may have eaten something inappropriate. If in any doubt, consult your vet immediately.

19. Squinting or holding their eye closed

Squinting is a sign of pain, with the eyelid working to protect the eye from further or perceived damage. It can be accompanied by redness, swelling, and discharge, which are all further red flags that all is not well.

It may be something as simple as a grass seed or fly, but equally, squinting could be caused by a corneal ulcer or glaucoma. Whatever the cause, early intervention is key to ensuring the best possible outcome.

20. A change in the appearance of their eyes

They say eyes are the windows to the soul, and they are indeed a helpful indicator of the health of your pet. Know what is normal for them, and take any changes seriously.

If the eyes are bulging, cloudy, squinting, or the pupils are dilating unevenly, this could indicate a serious problem, while other superficial issues, such as foreign bodies in the eye, infections, or allergies, will also need veterinary attention.

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis de Leaver.

Do you struggle to tell the Shetland Sheepdog and the collie apart? Rest assured, you're not alone! These breeds are almost identical, except for one key distinguishing feature – the collie is a lot larger.

But aside from that, there's not much separating these two hardworking breeds. Both the Shetland Sheepdog (or sheltie, as they're affectionately called) and the collie are bright dogs who are excellent with children and they make wonderfully affectionate and devoted companions.

You'll want to lead a fairly active lifestyle and have plenty of the best dog toys and games on hand if you plan on welcoming a sheltie or collie into your family. While the sheltie requires less exercise, both breeds are energetic and need plenty of physical and mental stimulation to keep them happy and healthy.

To help you learn more about these two lively dogs, we turned to expert vet Dr Hannah Godfrey who was only too happy to reveal more. Below, you'll find everything you need to know about how easy they are to train, what their grooming needs are and the specific health issues that are worth being aware of.

Size: Shetland Sheepdog vs collie

Short on space inside your home? Lacking a big garden? If so, the size of the Shetland Sheepdog may well appeal. Considered a small dog breed, they stand between 13 and 16 inches in height and weigh no more than 25 pounds, making them a good choice if you're looking for a compact canine companion.

Collies, on the other hand, are much larger with males reaching heights of around 26 inches and females measuring approximately 24 inches. They also weigh a lot more than shelties, with males tipping the scales at roughly 75 pounds and females coming in at around 65 pounds.

Appearance: Shetland Sheepdog vs collie

People mix up shelties and collies all the time, which is not surprising as these two breeds look very similar. However, the easiest way to tell them apart is by their size – the collie is substantially bigger, both in height and in weight, so if they look quite small, you're dealing with a sheltie.

Shelties have long and straight coats with a dense undercoat, while collies come in two varieties – rough coated or smooth. Both breeds have variations in their coat color, with the sheltie coming in black, blue merle, and sable, with white markings and the collie coming in sable and white, tricolor, blue merle, or white.

Both breeds have striking almond-shaped eyes and wedge-shaped heads, so with the exception of their size, these two dogs look almost identical!

Trainability: Shetland Sheepdog vs collie

Planning on training your dog on your own rather than hiring a professional? If so, how intelligent a breed is and how quickly they can master new commands may well play an important role in your decision making process.

Thankfully, Dr Godfrey says that both collies and Shetland Sheepdogs are very bright, clever dogs who are eager to please.

"This makes them really easy to train," she says. "However, as working dogs, they have a tendency to try to herd or chase anything that moves, meaning training is really important to keep them and other animals around them safe," she adds.

According to Dr Godrey, another habit you might want to work on with training is barking, which both breeds are prone to. "It’s usually quite a noisy affair when a sheltie visits my consult room, because they do like to bark to show they’re happy or excited!," she explains.

The good news is that with early training and socialization, both of these intelligent breeds will become loyal and obedient companions.

Exercise: Shetland Sheepdog vs collie

When it comes to exercise, collies and shelties differ in terms of how much physical activity they need each day to keep them happy and healthy. Dr Godfrey says that collies are quite large dogs with lots of energy and tend to need more opportunities than shelties to burn that off. Without that, they have a tendency to get into mischief.

"They can become bored and destructive or gain weight without plenty of exercise," Dr Godfrey confirms. "When they are at home, it’s a good idea to keep them occupied and mentally and physically stimulated with toys and activities."

Dog puzzle toys can be brilliant for engaging your pups mind when you're too busy to play or why not try one of these great brain games for dogs?

While still energetic, Dr Godfrey says shelties have moderate rather than high exercise needs. "They usually also enjoy chilling out at home, so they can adapt to a variety of lifestyles," she explains.

There are so many great ways to workout with your pet, so if you're looking to mix things up a bit, why not try an obstacle or agility course? Both of which your sheltie will love.

Grooming: Shetland Sheepdog vs collie

Be sure to invest in the best dog brush as you'll put it to good use with both the Shetland Sheepdog and the collie!

"Both breeds have a double coat with a long, often coarse outer coat and a softer, dense undercoat. Therefore, they need to be brushed at least weekly to avoid mats," explains Dr Godfrey.

"During shedding, they’ll lose large amounts of fur from their undercoat, so daily brushing is needed to remove this," she adds.

While grooming can be time consuming, when it comes to how to bond with your dog, regular pamper sessions are a great way to connect and deepen the relationship the two of you share.

Health: Shetland Sheepdog vs collie

All of us want our canine companions to live happy and healthy lives, but as with all breeds, there are certain health issues you'll want to be aware of if you plan on adopting a collie or sheltie.

"Both breeds are at risk of genetic health problems affecting the eyes, known as collie eye anomaly and progressive retinal atrophy," says Dr Godfrey. "Thankfully, testing is available to screen for these conditions, and responsible breeders usually organize this in both the parents and the puppies."

You'll also want to consult your vet before investing in the best flea treatment for dogs. That's because both breeds are sensitive to certain medications – "in particular ivermectin, which is an ingredient in some parasite control treatments for pets," explains Dr Godfrey. The safest flea treatment for dogs can vary depending on breed, however your vet will be able to advise you on the right one for your fur friend.

When it comes to the Shetland Sheepdog specifically, Dr Godfrey says they're more at risk of developing certain health conditions, like hypothyroidism and clotting disorders.

"They are also prone to hip dysplasia, although collies can also be affected. In this condition, the hip joint develops poorly, so that the ball and socket don’t fit together snugly, allowing extra movement and pain. Hip scoring of parents before breeding helps to improve the health of the breed in the future."

Owner suitability: Shetland Sheepdog vs collie

Adopting a dog is a big decision. While there's no denying that owning a pet can infuse our lives with extra joy and meaning, each breed has specific needs meaning that some dogs will be a better fit for your lifestyle than others.

Because both the Shetland Sheepdog and the collie are energetic and need regular walks, Dr Godfrey says they're best suited to people who are active and love the outdoors.

"Both breeds are affectionate and good with children, so they’re a great option for families," she says. "However, as with any dog, it’s important to supervise interactions with children. Since shelties are smaller in size, they may be a better choice for older people or people with limited space, as they aren’t as strong and are less demanding in terms of exercise."

Before you welcome a collie or sheltie into your life, Dr. Godfrey says it's important to make sure you have the time and energy to dedicate to their training and grooming needs.

Want to learn about more dog breeds? Read our profile on the Border Collie and things to love about the Shetland Sheepdog. Or, read about other dog breed lookalikes

Edited by Megan Milstead and Georgia Guerin

Recall is one of the most important things you will ever teach your dog. Not only can it prevent them from running into traffic or getting into trouble with other animals, but it also ensures they won’t run after a wild animal and go missing.

If you’re at the beginning of your recall training journey (or just want some extra advice), we’ve shared six essential products that will make the process easier, recommended by dog behaviorist Ingrid Grayling and vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

Having the right tools will go a long way – whether you need to locate your dog using the best pet tracker or want to reinforce their good behavior with a packet of the best dog treats. We’ve put together a simple checklist for you to follow, along with some valuable recall training tips.

Recall training essentials

Here’s everything you need to set up your recall training for success:

1. Long line

Before you commit to an off-leash walk, it's a good idea to get some practice with a long line first. As Dr MacMillan explains, this gives you time to practice your training and keep things under control while giving your dog a bit of freedom. If things don’t go to plan, you can always reel them in again.

Ingrid recommends choosing a long line about 10 feet in length, which strikes the perfect balance between control and freedom.

She says: "I personally like to use a solid rope with a secure clip on one end to attach to the dog’s collar – it’s simple, effective, and gives both you and your dog the freedom to build confidence at a comfortable distance. A good training line is an essential tool when establishing reliable recall, especially in the early stages."

2. Whistle

If you’ve never tried whistle training for dogs, it’s well worth giving it a go. Dr MacMillan explains that because our voice can vary depending on energy levels and mood, a whistle can be a great alternative – it provides a consistent sound your dog learns to respond to.

She adds, "A whistle can also be helpful when multiple owners are training a dog. It sends a clear, concise, and consistent message to your pet."

3. High-value treats

It wouldn’t be a training session without a packet of dog treats, so make sure you have plenty on hand before you get started. Rewarding your dog for good behavior is a form of positive reinforcement and will make them more likely to act the same in the future if they think a tasty snack is on the cards!

Dr MacMillan says, "High-value treats are essential for your dog's recall training. You may need to work out what makes your dog tick, but firm favorites can include small pieces of cooked chicken, beef, or turkey, freeze-dried liver treats, and dehydrated fish-based snacks."

4. Collar with ID tag

Make sure your dog is wearing a collar and ID tag whenever they’re in training – this will make things 100 times easier if they run off, as others will see they have a home and be able to contact you.

Dr MacMillan says: "And don’t forget to ensure your pet is microchipped and wears a collar with an ID tag, just in case they go walkabouts during their training session!"

5. Pet tracker

We recommend fitting your dog with a pet tracker, which will give you extra peace of mind if they decide to run off during training. These can be attached to their regular collar and will give you live updates about their whereabouts, as well as interesting health stats and alerts.

Top tips for teaching recall to dogs

Now that you've got all the gear, it's time to start your recall training! We asked Ingrid for her top tips for a successful session – here’s everything she recommends:

1. Use a training line
"This is my number one piece of advice. Choose a line around 10 feet long – this gives your dog enough freedom to move, while you stay in control. I prefer a solid rope with a secure clip that attaches to the collar. It’s simple, safe, and effective."

2. Dedicate a 10–14 day training period
"Consistency is key. Commit to working on recall daily for around two weeks. Start close, and gradually increase distance as your dog improves."

3. Build distance gradually
"On day one, stand about a foot and a half away from your door. Gently pull on the lead and encourage your dog to come to you – always reward them with plenty of praise when they do. Each day, take a small step further back.

“By the end of the 10–14 days, you’ll be using the full length of the lead, and ideally your dog will be returning to you without much prompting at all."

4. Understand the ‘why’:
If your dog isn’t coming back, it’s important to ask why. Is there a distracting scent? A squirrel they can’t ignore? Or are they nervous about leaving your side? Understanding the reason behind the behavior is just as important as the training itself."

5. Avoid one-size-fits-all methods:
Each dog is different. If you’re struggling with recall, I highly recommend reaching out to an experienced trainer who takes the time to get to know both you and your dog. A tailored, thoughtful approach will always lead to the best results."

Want more expert advice? Read the three biggest recall mistakes people make with their dogs (and how to avoid them) or I’m a dog behaviorist and these are my top tips for ‘bulletproof’ reliable recall

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you’ve ever found yourself thinking, “Can dogs have fish skin?” while preparing your favorite fish recipe for dinner, you’re not alone. With so much conflicting advice online about what's safe and what's not, it can be tricky to know whether it's OK to feed it to your dog.

Fish hide (made from fish skins) is actually one of the best long-lasting dog chews and is recommended by many vets as a safer alternative to rawhide. It's high in protein and omega-3s, which promote a healthy coat, skin, and brain – but it does come with one drawback you'll want to keep in mind.

Below, expert vets Dr Coder and Dr Pendergrass explain the pros, the cons, and how to feed fish skins safely to your dog. They’ve also shared their recommendations for the best types of fish and how much you can give your pet per day.

Can dogs have fish skin?

The good news is, fish skin is generally safe for dogs to eat, provided it's thoroughly cooked without any seasonings or ingredients like onions, oil, butter, and salt (which are one of the foods dogs should never eat).

Dr Pendergrass tells us that fish skin, just like the rest of the fish flesh, is loaded with numerous nutrients that could benefit your dog.

“Fish skin has many nutrients that promote good overall health, particularly omega-3 fatty acids. It is also high in protein, low in calories and saturated fats, and contains several minerals (zinc, iron, potassium, calcium) and vitamins,” she says.

However, raw or undercooked fish skins can be detrimental to your dog’s health.

According to Dr Coder, raw fish skin carries disease-causing bacteria, among them Salmonella, Listeria, and Clostridium. Eating raw or undercooked fish skin can make your dog seriously ill, which is why well-cooked fish skin is the safest choice for them.

👍Pros of fish skin

Promotes overall good health
According to Dr Coder, the major benefit of fish skin lies in its exceptionally high concentration of omega-3 fatty acids, which play a crucial role in your dog’s overall well-being.

“Fish skin is an excellent source of omega fatty acids for your dog. These nutrients play a role in hormone regulation, immunity, controlling inflammation, supporting brain and eye function, and skin health,” she says.

👎Cons of fish skin

High fat content
Since fish skin is naturally a fatty food, it can lead to digestive issues if consumed regularly in large amounts.

“The high fat content and omega fatty acid combination can change the absorption of your dog’s regular diet, as well as possibly upset their stomach,” explains Dr Coder.