If your dog is afraid of the vet, they might show signs like barking, growling, and physical reactions, which can make check-ups and vaccinations very difficult – and might put you off taking them altogether.

To make vet visits more enjoyable for your dog, expert Dr Rebecca MacMillan says you'll want to give them plenty of praise and treats, as well as low-key interactions with staff members to slowly boost their confidence.

While working with a pet behaviorist or vet is the best way to help your dog overcome their fear, there are a few products that can help – like pheromones, supplements and pressure vests – that Dr MacMillan has recommended below.

How to keep your dog calm at the vet

1. Supplements

Supplements aren't a guaranteed quick fix, but there are lots of options available that could promote relaxation for your pooch, so it's definitely worth giving it a go. Dr MacMillan says that oral supplements can be helpful for some dogs and often contain natural ingredients like casein, L-tryptophan, and B vitamins, which have calming effects.

2. Pheromones

Dr MacMillan says: "Synthetic dog appeasing pheromones can also be useful. These replicate the pheromones released by mother dogs to calm their puppies, letting them know they are safe. These can evoke similar feelings in adult dogs too."

You can buy these as plug-in diffusers (like these ones) to place around your home, or, when visiting the vet, use an impregnated collar (like this) or a spray to spritz on your dog’s bedding, crate, and toys.

3. Pressure vests

For some dogs, pressure vests (aka Thundershirts) can have anti-anxiety effects, according to Dr MacMillan. They apply gentle pressure on your dog’s body, which can help them feel more secure in their environment.

Signs a dog is stressed at the vets

If you're wondering whether your dog is stressed by the vet, look out for these tell-tale signs of stress in dogs:

• Pacing
• Shaking
• Excessive yawning
• Nervous lip licking
• Drooling
• Body posture changes
• Face expression changes, like whale eye
• Excessive panting
• Hiding
• Fear aggression
• Toilet accidents

As mentioned earlier, if you want the best results, we recommend using these products as part of a behavioral modification programme run by a qualified behaviorist.

In some cases, where the dog is very stressed and unable to cope with visits at all, vets can prescribe medication to help manage their symptoms.

Dr. MacMillan says: "These drugs can be very effective at reducing severe anxiety, keeping your pet calm and allowing veterinary staff to do their job more effectively."

Read next: How to destress your dog and how to make vet visits less stressful

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

There are a few circumstances where you might be left wondering how to litter train a dog. While it’s not common practice – like house training a puppy – as it’s recommended that you take dogs outside to go to the toilet outside, if your dog has mobility issues, is recovering from injury or illness, or lives in a high-rise apartment, training them to use a litter box might be useful.

The good news is, it's not as tricky as you might think, as Dr Rebecca MacMillan explains.

How to litter train a dog

1. Select the right litter box

The first thing you want to do is choose a litter box. It sounds like a simple enough purchase, but you'll definitely want to do your research. Likewise, you’ll need to look into appropriate litter for dogs.

"You must get the right-sized box to fit your dog otherwise it will make training more difficult and urine spillages could occur," explains Dr MacMillan

2. Introduce your dog to the litter box

Dr MacMillan says that introductions to any litter box need to be done slowly, with lots of the best dog treats on hand that you can use to reward your pup for sniffing or showing interest in the litter box.

"When they are happy you can then try and encourage them to enter it," she says.

3. Establish a routine

Consistency is crucial when it comes to getting your dog to use their litter box.

"Start as you mean to go on and establish a toileting routine, for example by taking your dog to their box first thing in the morning or after a meal," Dr MacMillan advises.

4. Use positive reinforcement

Positive reinforcement is so important when it comes to litter box training.

"If your dog toilets in the box, then make sure to reward them with a treat and praise to reinforce the behavior," says Dr MacMillan.

5. Be patient and consistent

Using a litter box may not come naturally for some dogs, especially if they have previously toileted outside. Dogs also learn at different rates and some breeds are easier to train and may take more quickly to using a litter box than others.

"Remain patient and never punish them for any accidents as it could lead to anxiety," Dr MacMillan explains.

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in July 2025 by Kathryn Williams.

Rabbits can die from heatstroke, so it’s crucial that you know how to keep your bunny cool when the weather gets warmer. Since they are unable to sweat to regulate their body temperature, it’s particularly important to give them a helping hand.

Your rabbit’s environment shouldn’t exceed 77°F (25°C), and if it’s too hot, you might notice them breathe more rapidly, drink more than usual, pant, or have warmer ears. As well as keeping them cool, you’ll need to check their bottom multiple times throughout the day during the summer to ensure they don’t have flystrike, a parasitic condition where flies lay their eggs on another animal.

Keeping them well hydrated and out of direct sunlight is top of the list, but there are a few other ways you can help, which vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan has explained below. She’s a qualified vet with 16 years of experience working with small animals, and she’s here to help you keep your rabbit safe this summer.

How to keep a rabbit cool in summer

1. Hydration

Provide your rabbit with plenty of cool water to keep them hydrated. While it’s easier for them to drink from a bowl, Dr MacMillan recommends using an additional drinking bottle if they’re prone to knocking it over! To ensure their drinking bottle stays cold, you can buy an insulating cover that slips over the top.

2. A ceramic or slate tile

One of the easiest ways to keep your rabbit cool is by giving them a ceramic or slate tile to lie on. If you don’t have any around the house, you can buy tiles specifically made for rabbits to put in their living area – or invest in one of the best pet cooling mats (which needs to be checked regularly for chewing damage).

Alternatively, if you’re on a budget, Dr MacMillan also recommends a damp towel to sit on or a partially frozen bottle of water wrapped in a towel.

Note: Never cover your rabbit in a damp towel or cloth.

3. Electric fan

Just like us, rabbits will also appreciate a refreshing breeze from an electric fan – and you can even buy ones that attach to their cage or hutch! If you do opt for these, make sure you check them regularly for damage, advises Dr MacMillan.

If you don't have time to keep an eye on it, you can always place a tower fan next to their enclosure, which they won't be able to nibble on.

4. Regular grooming

Did you know that regular grooming can help your rabbit feel cooler and more comfortable in the summer? While you should brush your rabbit year-round, it becomes even more important in hot weather, as it helps remove excess dead fur.

Dr MacMillan adds: "You should be checking your rabbit twice a day for flystrike during warm weather anyway so you can add a little extra brushing in while you are at it."

Signs of heatstroke in rabbits

Heatstroke can occur when your rabbit is exposed to high temperatures and can lead to seizures, organ damage, and even death. If they show any of the following signs, take them to a vet immediately:

• Weakness
• Panting
• Drooling
• Hot or red ears
• Collapsing
• Seizure

For more advice, read our tips for taking care of rabbits

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you're looking for a new adventure this summer, why not try kayaking with your dog? It's a brilliant form of exercise for you, mentally enriching for them, and a great bonding activity to try together.

Before you head out to the water with your dog, it's worth getting some land-based practice first, using the best dog treats and praise to build positive associations around the kayak. You'll also want to get your hands on safety equipment, like a life jacket for both of you, a non-slip mat, and a quick-release leash.

For more tips on how to get started, you'll find Rachel Rodger, Head of Training and Behavior at Napo Pet Insurance, sharing her advice below – including what to pack, how to prepare, and top tips for when you're on the water.

Kayaking checklist

Here's what you'll need to pack:

1. Dog life jacket

Even if your pet is a confident swimmer, Rachel recommends using a dog life jacket to keep them safe and buoyant in the water.

She says, "Choose one with a strong handle so you can lift your dog back into the kayak if needed. You can see Rico and Maisy both have them in my photo!”

2. Non-slip mat or dog pad

Kayaks can get very slippery, so Rachel advises putting a non-slip mat or a dog pad in the bottom to help prevent accidents from happening. The last thing you want is to fall overboard!

3. Quick-release leash

You should never tie your dog to a kayak while paddling, but Rachel recommends bringing a leash with a quick-release clip for launch and landing.

These moments can be unpredictable, and your dog might spook in unfamiliar environments, so this will help keep them under control and prevent them from running off.

4. Collapsible water bowl and fresh water

It might be tempting to let your dog drink from the river or lake, but Rachel warns that the risk of blue-green algae is too dangerous and can be fatal if consumed. Make sure you pack plenty of fresh water, along with a collapsible water bowl that's easy to store.

She says: “Keep your dog hydrated with clean drinking water – don’t rely on lakes or rivers, which may be unsafe. If in doubt, keep dogs out of the water."

5. Dry bag with dog essentials

Your belongings are inevitably going to get wet in a kayak, so be sure to pack a dry bag to store the essentials – like treats, poo bags, a towel, and any medication.

Rachel adds: "I also have a phone case that I can use to take photos, but it floats and keeps my phone dry if we fall in!"

Tips for kayaking with your dog

Never been kayaking with your dog before? No problem – Rachel shares five of her top tips below:

1. Start with land-based training: “Let your dog explore the kayak on dry land first. Encourage them with treats and praise, helping them associate the kayak with positive experiences. Practice sitting calmly inside it with them.”

2. Choose calm, safe water for your first outing: “A quiet lake or a slow-moving river is ideal. Avoid strong currents, waves, or busy boating areas until both of you are more confident. You could even find a club that runs sessions instead of risking going it alone.”

3. Keep sessions short and positive: “For your first few trips, keep paddles short and low-stress. Bring treats and reward your dog for calm behavior. Build up their comfort and stamina gradually.”

4. Wear life jackets – for both of you: “You should always wear a buoyancy aid, and your dog should too. It's not just about swimming – it's about safety in unexpected situations like tipping or cold water.”

5. Stay balanced and calm: “Your dog will take their lead from you. Keep your movements steady, and balance your weight evenly. Sit low in the kayak and stay relaxed, and enjoy it! Make sure you practice moving your arms, as you don't want to bop your dog on the head when you are moving!”

Decided that kayaking isn't for you? You could also try paddleboarding with your dog or these fun outdoor activities for pets

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you're wondering how to remove pet hair from carpet, you're in the right place! As a lifelong pet parent, I know what it's like to constantly battle against fur-ridden furniture and surfaces every day – whether it's due to dog shedding or cat shedding.

When it comes to banishing pet hair from your home, the best vacuum cleaners for pets can be a complete lifesaver, offering higher suction power and anti-tangle technology that standard devices lack.

However, if you're not quite ready to splash out on a new vacuum or can't be bothered to lug it out of the cupboard (we've all been there!), I've got a few other tricks for you to try, including fabric softener spray and rubber glove techniques. And if you're looking for ways to get dog hair off your couch, be sure to check out our other helpful guide too.

How to remove pet hair from carpet

1. Rubber gloves

Who would have thought an old pair of rubber gloves could come in so handy? Well, it turns out that if you dampen them and run them across your carpet in long strokes, they can pick up fur pretty easily due to the friction and static electricity. This works best on short, tightly woven carpets.

2. Squeegee

The squeegee is another hair removal tool you might not have seen coming. The friction from the rubber blade helps loosen any fur buried deep in the carpet and gathers it into a clump that's easy to pick up afterwards. This also works very well on short-pile carpets.

3. Lint rollers

Lint rollers are the quickest way to remove unwanted pet hair from your clothes, furniture, or carpet. Just peel off the sticky sheet, roll it back and forth, and your surfaces will look good as new!

4. Pet hair removal tools

If you think your carpets are clean, think again – these pet hair removal tools lift fur you didn’t even know was there. The blade picks up everything from hair and lint to fluff and crumbs that vacuums can’t reach.

5. Fabric softener spray

By mixing two to three tablespoons of liquid fabric softener with one cup of water, you’ll have your very own fur remover spray. Spritz it onto your carpet to loosen the fluff, let it sit for a few minutes, and once it’s dry, use a rubber glove or squeegee to brush it away.

Why won't my vacuum pick up dog hair?

There's nothing more frustrating than spending hours vacuuming, only to realize it hasn't picked up any pet hair at all! Here are a few reasons why this might happen:

1. Wrong attachments: If your vacuum isn't picking up pet hair, you might be using the wrong attachment. A motorized brush head (also known as a turbo brush or powerhead) gives you the best chance of removing stubborn fluff and hair from carpet fibers.

2. Clogged filters: For optimal performance, ensure you’re regularly cleaning the filters, hose, and brush roll to prevent them from getting clogged with hair and debris. Some models (like this one from Amazon) offer anti-tangle brush heads to save you the extra effort.

3. The hair is too deep: If the fur is particularly long or fine, it can become deeply embedded in the fibers and require a special tool to remove it (like this one from Amazon).

4. Wrong vacuum: Pet-specific vacuums offer higher suction power and HEPA filtration to trap allergens and fur, along with a variety of attachments designed specifically for removing pet hair.

Want more cleaning tips? Read our guides on how to remove dog hair from your washing machine and how to remove dog hair from your car. Or check out our review of the YEEDI S14 Plus

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Looking to remove dog hair from your car? You've come to the right place. As a pet parent myself I know all too well how frustrating it can be to have to spend time cleaning up all that fur – and trying to remove it from the car is often the trickiest job.

Thankfully, I've rounded up a ton of great tips to make it a whole lot easier. Investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair is definitely something I recommend, however you'll find plenty of other fantastic solutions below if you don't have a vacuum cleaner or simply don't fancy dragging it outside!

It's worth noting that some of the hacks below work equally well if you're trying to get dog hair off your couch or clothes, so if you decide to purchase something like a lint roller, you'll find they'll be multiple ways you can put it to good use.

Ready for some clever tips to remove dog hair from leather or fabric car interiors? Keep reading...

How to remove dog hair from your car

Leather materials

Leather is much more forgiving than fabric when it comes to dog hair as it's a lot less prone to holding onto fur. However, the seams can still prove a challenge, so here's how to clean your leather interiors without damaging them...

1. Do a gentle vacuum: You'll want to use a soft brush attachment for this to avoid scratching the leather in your car. Apply enough pressure for the vacuum to do its job, but not so much that you're pressing down firmly into the leather itself. A light touch should be all that's needed here.

2. Use a damp cloth: Microfiber (like this one) is the best option here as it's highly effective yet gentle, but in a pinch, a towel will do the job as well. Simply wet the cloth and then wipe down the leather surfaces – the dampness will help the fur stick to the cloth.

3. Apply a leather conditioner: Once you've removed the fur, apply a leather conditioner. Try not to skip this step as the conditioner helps prevent the leather from cracking and it's those pesky cracks that tend to be where pet hair accumulates.

Fabric

Unlike leather, which does a fairly good job of repelling dog hair, fabric interiors are a magnet for fur. However, while there's no denying you'll need to adopt a stronger approach to tackling pet hair if you have fabric seats, there's still a very effective method you can use to get the job done...

1. Start by vacuuming: No need to worry about a gentle approach when you're dealing with fabric seats, so use the most powerful vacuum cleaner you can get your hands on and pair it with a brush attachment. Don't be shy about being vigorous here, you'll want to apply plenty of pressure and move in lots of different directions to loosen the fur.

2. Use a damp rubber glove: These are much more effective than microfiber cloths and towels when you have fabric seats, but the same principle still applies. You want to wet the gloves and then run your hands all over the fabric. This movement will create a good amount of friction and static that will help the fur clump together, making it easier to remove. You can then do a second vacuum.

3. Apply a fabric cleaner: The final step is to use a soft brush to apply a fabric cleaner that's been specifically designed to be used in cars. Not only will brushing this give you one last opportunity to remove any pesky fur that's been left behind, but it will leave your car smelling fresh and clean too.

Carpet

For carpets, you can use the basic method for fabric interiors outlined above, vacuuming first and then using damp rubber gloves and finishing off with a final vacuum, or you can try one of these less time-consuming methods if you're in a hurry...

1. A lint roller: This is a brilliant solution if you're after a quick fix for a small area or you simply don't have the time to clean your whole car. Lint rollers are portable and versatile so you can easily have one in your car that you can use on your carpets when you're out and about. Plus, they can help you de-fur your clothes at the same time!

2. Pet hair brush or glove: If you have your dog's brush or grooming glove handy, why not put it to good use? These are quite effective at lifting hair out of carpets – simply brush or wipe the tool over the carpets where you can see fur and you're good to go.

3. Duct tape: Who would have thought that the humble duct tape could be such a handy carpet cleaner! Simply wrap the tape around your hand, sticky side up, and pat your hand on the carpet to remove the fur.

How to prevent dog hair in your car

It's such a joy having our fur friends accompany us in the car – whether that's on a big cross-country adventure or simply running errands around town. However, while it may be fun having your dog with you wherever you go, you likely don't enjoy having to clean up all the hair they shed while they're in the car.

Thankfully, there are some ways that you can prevent their fur from building up and you'll be relieved to hear it's not as difficult as you might think. Here are a few of our favorite tips:

1. Invest in seat covers: Using seat covers (or a pet hammock) is one of the most effective ways of preventing your dog's fur from accumulating in your car. These do a brilliant job of catching all the hair, dirt and debris, before it has a chance to settle into the interior – just be sure to choose ones that are easy to wash (like this one from Amazon).

2. Groom your dog regularly: Regular grooming with one of the best dog brushes isn't just great for getting rid of loose, dead fur, it's also a wonderful way to bond with your dog.

3. Use an anti-static spray: These are fantastic for helping to prevent fur from sticking to fabric. Simply mist the spray over the interior of your car before your dog gets in and it will repel the fur.

4. Brush your dog before they get in the car: As well as daily or weekly grooming (depending on your dog's breed), giving them an extra brush before they get in the car will help catch any loose fur that will otherwise fall out while you're traveling.

5. Regularly vacuum your car: While it can be tempting to put it off, a quick, weekly vacuum can actually make your life a whole lot easier in the long run. Not only does it help prevent fur from building up, but it will also remove any dirt and debris, reducing allergens and creating a more hygienic environment for both you and your dog.

Read next: How to pet-proof a rental, how to cope with dog shedding season, and how to remove dog hair from your washing machine. Or check out these tips to remove pet hair from carpet.

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in June 2025 by Kathryn Williams.

When it comes to getting rid of dog hair on clothes, you'll likely be pleasantly surprised to discover just how many simple solutions there are to this very common problem.

If you're a pet owner like I am, then you probably don't need me to tell you just how enriching it can be to have a fur friend in your life. There's certainly plenty of fun to be had when you have pets in the house, but one of the big downsides is finding their hair everywhere.

While the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair can help get dog hair off your couch, when it comes to clothing, you'll need to try a different approach. Thankfully, there are lots of effective ways to remove dog hair from your clothes – especially if you own one of the breeds that sheds the most – and I have a feeling there are a few tips on this list that you won't see coming!

Below, I'm sharing my five favorite ways to get rid of dog hair on clothes. Plus, I explore what causes pet hair to stick to clothing in the first place and reveal the most common fur-attracting fabrics you'll want to steer clear of.

How to get rid of dog hair on clothes

1. Lint roller

Keeping a lint roller or two in your home can be a real lifesaver when it comes to removing dog hair from clothes. Lint rollers are best used on dry clothes and that sticky surface can be highly effective at removing your dog's fur from your favorite top, suit, coat or pants.

To use a lint roller, peel off the protective cover and then run the lint roller across your clothing in long, even strokes, applying light pressure as you do this. If your clothes are particularly fur-covered, you may need to do this several times to remove all of the hair.

2. Damp rubber gloves

Rubber gloves may not be the first (or fifth!) item that springs to mind when it comes to removing dog hair from clothes, but bear with us as their textured surface can prove surprisingly effective.

The key to using rubber gloves in this way is to make sure they're damp before you begin. Once you've put them on and wet them, run your hands back and forth over your clothes. The texture of the gloves acts like a magnet, while the dampness helps the pet hair to cling to the surface of the glove rather than your clothes.

3. Use a washing machine and dryer

Your washing machine and dryer can be brilliant weapons to call on in the fight against dog hair. The first thing you want to do is to try and remove as much fur as possible before you wash your clothes – that's where a lint roller or wet rubber gloves can come in handy.

Once you've done that, separate out the clothes with dog hair on them from any other clothes you're wanting to wash as the last thing you want to do is to transfer the fur onto other items.

Now, while it may seem counterintuitive, you want to start with the dryer first. Pop your clothes in for around 10 minutes on a low setting as this will help to soften the fabric and loosen the hair.

After you've got the clothes out, pop them into your washing machine and add 1/2 cup of white vinegar to the drum. This is another great hack when it comes to loosening dog hair and removing it from clothing. After your wash cycle is finished, put the clothes back in the dryer with a pet hair removal dryer sheet and hey presto – no more fur!

4. Try a steamer

Do you own a hand-held steamer? If you do, it's worth pulling it out of the cupboard and giving it a whirl on those fur-filled clothes. Steamers are particularly great for delicate fabrics as they can help to loosen and remove hair without damaging your clothes.

5. Do a tennis ball tumble

Who would have thought that a humble tennis ball could be so effective in the fight against dog hair? And yet, we highly recommend you give this tip a go as it's amazing how much fur you can remove by doing the tennis ball tumble.

Because tennis balls have a textured surface, adding one into your dryer with your clothes is like having your own hands-free lint roller doing all the hard work for you.

Tennis balls do a great job of removing dog hair from your clothes and then your dryer's lint trap will take over, catching all of that loose fur and trapping it for you to remove later. Up the ante by adding a pet hair removal dryer sheet as well.

What causes dog hair to stick to clothes?

1. Static electricity: If your clothing is constantly covered in dog hair, you may be wondering what causes that to happen. Well, the simple answer is static electricity. Pet hair is more likely to stick to fabrics that generate a lot of static, such as acrylic, polyester, nylon and wool.

2. Clothing fabric: The texture of the fabric and the weave type can also play a role. Loose-weave fabrics, like flannel, linen and chiffon, let fur embed deeply into the fibers, which can make it more tricky to remove.

3. Your dog's fur: The fabric of your clothes is just one part of the equation, your dog's fur also comes into play. Pet hair tends to be fine, light and oily, so these characteristics allow the fur to not just embed into the fabric but also to stick more easily.

Choosing pet-friendly fabrics is a great way to minimize the amount of fur that sticks to your clothes. High quality, tightly-woven cotton, leather and bamboo are three of the best fabrics as they repel hair rather than trapping it.

Alongside the fabric choice itself, a good rule of thumb when selecting pet-friendly clothing is to opt for dark and/or patterned fabric as these do an excellent job of disguising fur.

And of course, we highly recommend investing in one of the best dog brushes (or cat brushes) and giving your pet a good groom on a regular basis. Daily brushing is one of the most successful ways to remove loose hair and ensure it ends up in the bin and not attached to your clothes.

What fabric attracts dog hair?

Unless you have a dog that rarely sheds, finding fur all over your clothes is likely a common frustration. While you can't fully prevent dog hair from finding its way onto your favorite coat or suit, choosing fabrics that repel fur rather than attract it can help make life a lot easier.

The worst fabrics for trapping dog hair are things like flannel, fleece, and velvet as these act like a lint roller and cause the fur to stick. Flannel and fleece have a loose, fuzzy texture that excels at trapping fur, while velvet has a surface that acts like a magnet, causing any hair it comes into contact with to stick.

Tweed is another fabric that's worth steering clear of if you can. Although it does a great job of camouflaging fur, it also does a brilliant job of trapping hair in its fibers where it can be tricky to remove.

When shopping for clothes, always pay attention to the washing instructions. If you own a pet, look for fabric that has a 'W' cleaning code – that means it's suitable for water-based cleaning at home.

Read next: How to pet-proof a rental and tips for keeping your home clean during dog shedding season or how to remove dog car from your car. Or, check out these top tips on how to remove pet hair from carpet,

Edited by Megan Milstead.

This page was last updated in June 2025 by Kathryn Williams.

If you have a pet and live in a rented property, chances are there’ll be a few accidents along the way. From scratched-up carpets from the cat to chewed-up table legs from the teething puppy, there are plenty of ways your deposit refund could go wrong.

Thankfully, there are also a lot of ways to prevent that from happening – like investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair, using temporary floor tiles, and shielding your furniture with washable covers.

To find out the best ways to protect your home, we asked Rachel Rodgers, an award-winning animal behaviorist at Napo Pet Insurance, for her top tips. Below, you’ll find five handy hacks to prevent unwanted messes, plus advice on how to tackle the root causes of these pesky problems.

How to pet-proof a rental property

1. Use washable covers

Whether it's your landlord's furniture or your own, using washable covers is a game-changer for any pet parent wanting to protect their things. You can buy these for everything from your sofas and chairs to rugs and bed, and they can be popped in the washing machine like the accident never happened!

2. Secure cords and outlets

Pets love sinking their teeth into things they shouldn't, like cables, cords, and outlets. To prevent this, Rachel recommends using cord sleeves or tubing, which are relatively inexpensive and will save you a lot of hassle. It's also well worth putting baby-proof plugs into unused outlets for your pet's safety.

3. Baby gates or pet barriers

If you need to keep your pet out of a particular room, installing a baby gate or a pet barrier is a great way to do it, and you don't necessarily need to drill any holes in your wall either. Rachel suggests looking into brands like Dog-G8, which "offer attractive, foldable gate systems that are easy to install and remove without damage".

4. Peel-and-stick tiles

Not only can peel-and-stick tiles offer protection to your floor, but they're also a great way to add a personal touch to your home, without paying a load of money or doing damage. Rachel suggests putting them in your pet's feeding and litter areas where spills and stains are bound to happen.

5. Wall guards

If your dog tends to scratch by the door or windows, applying a removable wall guard or a clear plexiglass panel will prevent them from making a mark.

How to avoid common behavioral issues

While chewing and destructive habits can be annoying for us pet parents, it's usually a sign that they're feeling frustrated or under-stimulated. Rachel explains that one of the most effective ways to combat this is through scent work.

"Scent-based games provide vital mental stimulation and can help promote calm behavior, even in high-energy or anxious dogs. Simple games like hiding treats around the home, using scent kits, or encouraging your dog to search for a toy or item can be done indoors with minimal space or mess. It’s also an excellent outlet when access to outdoor space is limited."

Since most household damage happens when dogs are left home alone, Rachel recommends investing in one of the best pet cameras so you can monitor their behavior.

She says, "Watching how your dog behaves when unattended can help you identify what they need to remain calm and settled in your absence."

How to pet-proof a holiday rental

Planning a vacation with your pet? We asked Leona Sherlock from StayCotswold for her top tips to avoid messes and unexpected cleaning bills – here’s what she suggests.

1. Protective covers: "It's such a simple step that makes an enormous difference to your peace of mind. Nobody wants to worry about muddy paws or pet hair on beautiful furnishings when they should be relaxing on their holiday."

2. Food and water bowl mats: "It prevents water spillage and food from marking floors, particularly important in properties with wooden or carpeted surfaces. It's one of those small details that property owners really appreciate."

3. A familiar dog bed: "Not only does it give your pet somewhere comfortable to sleep, but it also prevents excess dog hair from gathering onto carpets and furniture. Your dog will settle much better in an unfamiliar environment when they have their own familiar space."

4. Brushes: "[Grooming is] particularly important during muddy seasons. A quick brush removes dirt and prevents it from being tracked through the property."

5. Old towels: "Keep a stack by the door for drying muddy paws and wet coats before your pet goes back inside. They're also brilliant for dogs to lie on whilst they're settling down after an adventure. It's amazing how much mess you can prevent with something so simple."

6. Chews: "Bringing a favorite chew toy is something we recommend. Dogs can become anxious or bored in new environments, and having something familiar to occupy them prevents any unwanted attention to furniture legs or skirting boards. It's far better to be prepared than sorry."

Read next: How to cat-proof your home and how to puppy-proof your house and yard or how to get rid of dog hair on clothes or how to remove dog hair from your washing machine. You might also want to see these tips on how to remove pet hair from carpet,

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you're a pup parent, you probably wonder how to get dog hair off your couch on a daily basis – especially during the summer months when pets are molting more. I don't know about you, but my life seems like a never-ending list of cleaning!

Pet hair can settle into all sorts of surfaces, but one of the worst culprits is couches – particularly if they're made from fabric materials like velvet. While many of the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair include special attachments for just this, professional cleaning expert Lexi Brown has a few other tricks up her sleeve for battling the fluff.

If you want to learn the easiest ways to remove pet hair from your furniture, as well as some clever tricks to prevent it from sticking in the first place, keep on reading. Lexi has shared her top tips below, learned over a decade as a cleaner.

How to get dog hair off your couch

1. Vacuuming

Best for: all materials

This might go without saying, but vacuuming regularly will give you the best chance of reducing fur buildup in your home. We highly recommend investing in a pet-specific model, which offers better suction power, specialized filtration systems, and special attachments to make things easier.

Lexi says, "Motorized pet tools help lift embedded hair out of the sofa fabric. Always go over the entire area using different tools. This makes it easier for strands to be dislodged."

2. Rubber gloves

Best for: leather

If you're looking for a cheap hack that won't cost you any money, the rubber glove trick is for you! Grab a pair of rubber gloves lying around the house, dampen them slightly with some water, and then rub them along the fabric in short strokes.

According to Lexi, gloves are a brilliant way to peel hair off fabric surfaces due to the friction and tackiness of the material. For flat surfaces, she also recommends squeegees (available on Amazon for under $10).

3. Pet hair rollers

Best for: woven fabrics

If you've never heard of a Chom Chom Roller, it's basically a lint roller – but better, and specifically made for pesky pet hairs. The design is completely reusable, with no adhesives or sticky tape, making it a great eco-friendly alternative. These devices can be used on all kinds of surfaces, from upholstery to carpets, and are relatively inexpensive, costing under $30 on Amazon.

Lexi says: "Chom Chom Rollers and lint rollers are ideal for daily maintenance. Furthermore, these are fabric-specific and eco-friendly, making them much better than other pet hair removers."

4. Anti-static or fabric softener mist

Best for: caked on fur

If you're still struggling to remove pet hair from your couch, Lexi suggests using an anti-static spray or fabric softener to reduce the static cling on the surface.

She recommends mixing one part fabric softener with three parts water, spritzing it on the couch, and then removing the fur with a cloth, towel, or vacuum afterwards.

5. Washable slipcovers

Best for: fabric couches

Minimal effort, maximum reward – putting washable slipcovers on your couch is an easy way to manage pet hair in your home. You can buy multiple sets, so you don’t even have to wait for one to finish washing.

Lexi says: "Slipcovers can be removed and cleaned, which is ideal for pets that shed a lot of fur.

How to prevent pet hair sticking to furniture

Cleaning pet hair can be time-consuming, so if you'd rather not have to deal with it in the first place, follow these prevention tips from Lexi:

1. Washable blankets: One of the best ways to protect your furniture is by using washable blankets (like these ones from Amazon) that can be tossed in the washing machine when they get grubby.

2. Tightly woven fabrics: It’s obviously unrealistic to replace your entire furniture set just to avoid pet hair, but if you’re in the market for a new couch, Lexi recommends choosing one made from tightly woven fabric, like leather or microfiber. She says, "They do not attract fur as much as textured substrates such as velvet or chenille."

3. Anti-static spray: Not only is anti-static spray great for removal, but it can also help with prevention by stopping more pet hair from clinging to surfaces.

4. Regular grooming: Remember to groom your pet regularly using the best dog brushes to reduce shedding – particularly in the summer months when molting is at its peak.

5. Provide plenty of pet beds: Try placing some comfortable dog beds around the house to encourage your pet to lie there instead.

Want more expert cleaning advice? Read how to get dog pee out of the carpet and how to cope with dog shedding. Or how to pet-proof a rental and how to get rid of dog hair on clothes or remove dog car from your car

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

If you've noticed your dog experiencing symptoms like excessive scratching and licking, there's a chance they could have seasonal allergies. While it's always important to consult your vet rather than self-diagnosing, there are a few things you can do to help in the meantime – such as wiping down their paws after walks and keeping their skin barrier healthy.

Unfortunately, there's no one-size-fits-all solution for every dog – what works well for one might make no difference to another. That’s why it’s always best to work alongside an expert, who can provide a customized treatment plan to follow.

Vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan says: "Your vet will need to examine your pet and assess them for any complicating factors such as parasites or secondary yeast and bacterial infections. It is important that these are ruled out and treated before concentrating on the suspected allergy issue."

However, if you're curious about the type of treatments and solutions that a professional might offer, we've rounded up some options to treat seasonal allergies below. From soothing shampoo to omega-3 supplements – here are some over-the-counter products that could help a dog with allergies.

How to help a dog with seasonal allergies

1. Rinse when you get home

If your dog suffers from mild allergy symptoms, Dr MacMillan says it could be helpful to rinse their paws and belly after walks. While you won’t want to bathe them too frequently – as this can strip their skin of protective natural oils – it can still help remove irritating pollen. You might also want to try a soothing oatmeal or coconut oil-based shampoo.

2. Protect the skin barrier

By improving the health of your dog's skin barrier, you'll help protect them more effectively against allergens. To support their skin and coat condition, consider switching to a diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids or investing in a high-quality supplement, which also offers natural anti-inflammatory benefits.

Dr MacMillan says: "I always tell owners that any improvement may not be seen straight away, but could take up to six to eight weeks. There is no disadvantage to increasing your dog’s intake of essential fatty acids, so I recommend this to most owners of allergic pets."

3. Wipe their paws on the go

As we mentioned previously, washing your dog's paws and belly can be a total game-changer for seasonal allergies. However, if you're on the go and don't have access to a bath straight away, you can use a pack of wipes to get the job done quickly.

Never use human wipes – they're not formulated for your dog's skin pH and can cause further irritation, especially if they contain fragrances and dyes. Dogs are prone to licking their paws, and some wipes contain harmful ingredients that are toxic if ingested.

4. Wash soft furnishings

Pollen can settle on surfaces in your home, so it's a good idea to regularly wash soft furnishings, like your dog's bed. You might want to consider drying it indoors or using a tumble dryer to avoid further pollen contamination on the line outside.

Dr MacMillan adds, "There are lots of other treatments that can also control symptoms of allergies. Monoclonal antibodies, glucocorticoids (‘steroids’), antihistamines, and various other licensed allergy medications can reduce itchiness and make your dog much more comfortable.

"Your vet will be able to discuss the pros and cons of these different therapies with you. Remember that each case is individual, and what might work well for one dog may not be so good for another."

While there may not be a cure for seasonal allergies, most can be managed with a vet’s guidance and a combination of treatments.

Looking for more expert advice? Read our vet's guide to skin allergies in dogs and food allergies in dogs. Or, if you're thinking about switching your pup's diet, read our top picks of the best dog food for allergies

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

This feature was last updated in May 2025 by Megan Milstead.

Taking your cat to the vet isn't always the easiest task, but it's an important part of being a responsible pet parent. Whether it's for a vaccination or treatment, vet visits are a crucial hurdle that your cat needs to conquer.

Car journeys, unfamiliar environments, and encounters with new people and pets can be a scary combination for your feline friend, often triggering anxiety and unwanted behaviors like scratching or biting. However, things like pheromone sprays can make the experience much easier for everyone.

There are plenty of other ways you can help your cat feel more comfortable, which Dr Rebecca MacMillan has shared below. She's a qualified vet with more than a decade and a half of experience working with cats – here are her top five recommendations:

How to keep a cat calm at the vet

1. Training

According to Dr MacMillan, training is one of the best ways to help a cat who is scared of vet trips. While this might take a bit of practice – and more time than other methods – it will have excellent results in the long run and doesn't have to cost you a penny.

Dr MacMillan says, "Try practicing gentle examinations at home to desensitize them to the process. You can make it more realistic by performing it on a high table with a non-slip surface, slowly checking them all over. Just remember to praise and reward them throughout."

2. Make their carrier a safe space

Since cats are creatures of comfort, being restrained in an unfamiliar environment isn't their idea of fun. That's why it's recommended to leave the best cat carrier out all the time, so they can have a sniff and get used to it.

Dr MacMillan says, "Allowing them to become accustomed to their cat carrier can also help greatly. They will be less likely to be fearful if they are familiar with their carrier before a vet visit.

"When your cat travels in the carrier, always cover it with a blanket or towel as your cat will feel less vulnerable if they can stay hidden. I always recommend that owners invest in a top-opening cat carrier. Dragging a reluctant cat out of the small doorway of a front-loading carrier is stressful for everyone."

Here are some more tips on how to get a reluctant cat into a carrier and how to get a scared cat to the vet.

3. Synthetic pheromones

When it comes to calming a cat during periods of high anxiety, synthetic pheromones are a game-changer and approved by vets. You can buy these in a range of forms, like plug-in diffusers and collars, but we'd suggest a spray in this case for portability.

Dr MacMillan says, "Synthetic pheromone products can be helpful agents for calming stressed cats. Try spritzing this inside their cat carrier or on the blanket covering it.

"There are also a variety of supplements available on the market that may be useful for your cat, but it can be trial and error. Some include ingredients like milk proteins, which act on the calming centers of your cat’s brain, without sedation."

4. Make it a positive experience

This might go without saying, but try to make your cat's experience as enjoyable and comfortable as possible. Everyone knows that the fastest way to a feline's heart is through the best cat treats, so make sure you have plenty on hand for the big day.

Dr MacMillan says, "You could also take some favorite treats or pieces of cooked chicken with you so that you can continue to praise your pet during their vet appointment, to make it a positive experience."

5. Prescription medication

Lastly, you might want to consider prescription medication if your cat is undergoing an invasive procedure or is struggling with anxiety. These medications need to be prescribed by a vet, of course, but can be super helpful if nothing else works.

Dr MacMillan says, "If your cat is particularly anxious when attending their appointments, then speak to your vet! Vets may prescribe medication for your cat to take ahead of their appointment, which can make the experience much more pleasant for everyone."

Want more expert advice? Read ways to destress your cat and how to be a good cat owner

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Overheating, heatstroke, and hyperthermia – whatever you call it, it’s serious, common, and frequently deadly. Although plenty of people know that dogs die in hot cars, what’s lesser-known is that dogs also die from environmental overheating – for example, being in a hot yard – or from exercising in the heat.

This means that – even though it’s important not to leave dogs in cars in the summer – it’s just as important to cool your dog down on any hot day, no matter where they are or who they are. That’s right, even the best dog breeds for hot weather can succumb to heatstroke.

In my nine years as a vet, I’ve been lucky enough to only treat two dogs with heatstroke, both of whom survived. But prevention is better than cure, and the more people who know how to keep their dogs cool, the better. So here’s my top, vet-verified tips for keeping a dog cool in the summer heat.

How to cool down a dog in the summer

So, what are the best ways to cool a dog down in the hot days of summer? Should you shave them? Give them pupsicles? Something else? Let’s take a look…

1. Keep them in the shade

Some dogs don’t know what’s best for them – I had a dog who would lie out in the sun until she was shaky, and in this case, the best thing you can do is to take them somewhere cool and keep them there.

That might be inside, or in the shade outside, depending on the heat and whether you have aircon. Dogs lose heat from lying on cool surfaces, so opt for grass rather than patio slabs if you can.

2. Keep them hydrated

Water is really important – make sure your dog has easy access to water and that their bowl doesn’t run out. You may find that they prefer several bowls, or even a pet water fountain.

If they aren’t big drinkers, try adding water to their food or offering flavored water on hot days – but don’t forget to let them out to urinate more!

3. Try a cooling mat

Dogs lose heat by lying on cool surfaces, and the best cooling mats for dogs are designed to provide a comfy, cool space to lie.

Some have cooling gels that are activated by pressure, while others need freezing in advance – either way, put them in the shade and give your dog something to keep them busy while they cool off.

4. Get them wet

Whether it’s a low-key hose-down, a game with a sprinkler, or the best dog paddling pool, getting dog’s fur wet increases evaporation and cooling. Try to get the water right down to their skin for best effect.

If your dog is obsessed with the pool or sprinkler and plays with their mouth, you should only let them play for 10 minutes or so before making them take a break to avoid water intoxication.

5. Make homemade pupsicles

My dog absolutely loves a popsicle. Fill a silicon mold or a plastic cup with a few tasty treats or some of their usual food, then add water, mix, and freeze.

Once frozen, you’ve got a nice cool treat to give a dog on a hot summer’s day! You may find you need to freeze in a few layers if all the treats float or sink, as you’re aiming to have the treats dispersed throughout.

Alternatively, here are some frozen dog treat ideas to try at home.

6. Shave them - yes, really!

There is so much debate online as to whether shaving a dog increases or decreases their ability to cool off.

Firstly, there’s no doubt that some coat types grow back strangely after cutting and it can take them a couple of years to get back to normal – but it’s just cosmetic, and if it helps your dog keep cool, then that’s what matters most.

Secondly, shaving works when the dog’s internal temperature is higher than the external temperature. This is going to be the case in many places, but some people will find the air temperature is higher than the dog’s internal temperature, in which case it might be best not to shave the coat.

And lastly, shaving a dog can increase their risk for sunburn – I usually recommend trialing shaving the belly fur and leaving the back longer to provide sun protection, since this allows dogs to make the most of cooling mats and similar.

If you're looking for the best dog grooming kits, be sure to check out our helpful guide.

7. Use a fan

Fans move air, increasing evaporation of water and allowing cooler air to replace the hot air near the body.

An electric fan pointing at your dog’s bed can be really helpful, but only if your dog uses it – if they don’t like the fan or move away from the shade to escape it, it may be worth pointing it nearby or fanning them by hand. Or, use your car’s aircon to create a cool environment – but stay with your pet in case there’s a problem and it shuts off!

Heatstroke kills. You can prevent it by keeping mindful of the environmental temperature and taking simple precautions, including following my top tips for keeping your dog cool this summer.

Found this helpful? Read next: When is it too hot to walk a dog? and how to cool down a dog

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Ever wondered how to greet a dog? It’s actually a really good question. Greeting a dog incorrectly can frighten them or make them uncomfortable, making them more likely to bite or ruining your relationship with them. In my view, there’s no perfect right way to greet a dog (it depends on the dog!), but there are plenty of wrong ways.

When I first started studying to become a vet, greeting dogs was covered on day one. We had a session with our tutor, a staff pet, and a more experienced student, who showed us the right way to greet a dog. It was memorable, because the poor dog got a bit overwhelmed and bit the older student – he was retired from practical sessions after that!

Anyway, it’s understandably an essential skill for any veterinarian to know, and it’s something I’ve practiced multiple times a day in my nine years of being a vet. I’m going to share my top tips for greeting a dog with you now (and the best dog treats might come in handy)…

How to greet a dog

Step 1: Ask permission

The first and most important step is to ask the owner’s permission before you greet any dog you don’t know. And then you need to respect the owner’s decision.

Sometimes, approaching a dog isn’t safe for you, but oftentimes owners who decline do so for their dog’s sake. The dog might be part way through training, have a sore area, or be nervous of strangers.

Even if you know the dog, if you haven’t seen them for a while, it’s best to check in with the owner before you approach, in case something has changed.

Step 2: Make your body smaller (if it's safe to do so)

In general, dogs are more likely to approach you if you’re smaller - it makes you less scary. If you can crouch down safely, do so. However, if you’re unsure of the dog, it’s safer to remain standing rather than put your face and neck within easy reach if the dog was to bite.

One tip from vet school is never to kneel – if you crouch instead, then you naturally fall away from danger if the dog lunges, whereas kneeling leaves you vulnerable.

Step 3: Turn side-on and don’t make eye contact

It’s best not to make eye contact, and face-to-face can also feel threatening to a dog. But turning side-on, presenting your shoulder and outer thigh, you look more approachable.

Keep the dog in your peripheral vision and talk to the owner – this takes the pressure off the dog and makes them more likely to explore and approach.

Step 4: Call the dog to you with your voice and body

If the dog still hasn’t approached, you can softly call them to you. A gentle call of their name, and slowly holding out your hand, should work.

When you hold out your hand, keep your fist closed and your fingers tucked away – to us, it can look like a fist (and therefore threatening), but dogs don’t see it like this, and tucking away your fingers keeps them safer if a dog suddenly snapped. Let them sniff your hand.

Step 5: Give them a treat (if allowed!)

If the owner says it’s OK, give the dog a treat if you have one. It’s a way to make the experience positive and helps them get to know you.

Ideally, they’ll take it gently from your hand, but if you’re unsure you can roll it to them or sprinkle some on the floor nearby. Don’t forget to move slowly.

Step 6: Gentle strokes, not pats

Hopefully, the dog has come over to say hi. If they haven’t, it’s best to respect their decision and leave them be.

If they do come over, they usually like to be stroked on the side of their chest or neck, or the chest in front, rather than patted on the head. Remember, move slowly and try not to make sudden movements.

How to approach a dog without an owner

Sometimes, you need to approach a dog who doesn’t have an owner – for example, if you’re trying to catch a stray and get them to safety. I once had to catch a stray Westie on a fast road in Wales – luckily, I’d spotted a vet practice about 300 yards back and we were able to catch the dog and take it there to have its microchip checked.

The dog was clearly terrified and it was probably the riskiest approach I’ve ever had, since I needed to physically catch him and put him in the car. I was very aware that he was scared of me (and of his environment), but with some gentle cajoling he let me get close enough to gently pick him up.

When approaching a dog without an owner, you should always try to tempt the dog towards you rather than approach it, but if this isn’t possible (e.g., the dog is tied up or won’t approach no matter how hard you try) you may need to approach them.

In this case, approach sideways, not making eye contact, and talking to them softly and quietly. Watch for signs that the dog is uncomfortable and likely to bite, and call in animal control or similar if necessary.

If you can get a leash onto the dog, this is a good way to control them and keep them safe. Try to avoid picking them up as this inevitably means your head will be close to them, and the feeling of being trapped is often scary.

Should you approach a dog palm up or down?

There’s a lot of advice saying you should approach a dog with your hand out to let them sniff. But then that begs the question – palm up or palm down?

Well, it probably doesn’t matter too much – a dog’s sense of smell is plenty good enough that it doesn’t change what they learn about you – but I would suggest neither. Or, at least, palm down but your fingers tucked away, as described above.

Tucking your fingers away protects them, and this is far more important than palm up/palm down debates.

How to greet a barking dog

If a dog is barking, backing away, or nervous, it’s generally best not to greet them. However, sometimes this is unavoidable – for example if you’re visiting a friend or if you’re a pet care professional.

I usually find a simple “Hello, [dog’s name]” shows them that you’ve seen them, while maintaining your distance and chatting to the owner gives them a chance to come to terms with you being there.

In my consult room, I often settle on the floor and roll treats to a nervous dog while talking to the owner – this gives the dog a chance to calm down and come to investigate to see if I have anything else delicious!

Dos and don’ts of greeting a dog

I thought some quick dos and don’ts would help summarize what we’ve discussed, so here you go:

✅DO make yourself smaller: Even big dogs are smaller than you – try not to loom over their head, but crouch down to make yourself less threatening.

✅DO invite them to come to you: It’s best not to approach a dog, but to invite them to come to you by crouching down and extending a hand.

✅DO offer treats: If you have a chance to prepare, offering treats (with the owner’s permission – watch out for allergies or special diets!) is a sure way to win a dog over.

✅DO watch out for licking, yawning, and wide eyes: Dogs give lots of warning signals saying “please don’t!” long before they bite, but most humans don’t recognize them for what they are. Nervous licks, looking away, tension in the body, yawning, and wide eyes all suggest a dog isn’t comfortable, so stop your approach and let them be. You might want to read our guide on dog body language first.

❌DON’T pat dogs on the head: Not only do you naturally loom over them when you do this, but it’s not a particularly nice greeting. Most dogs prefer a stroke or gentle scratch on the chest or side.

❌DON’T corner them or block them with your body: Many dogs would rather flee than bite, so make sure they have an escape route if they need to. That means standing to their side and giving them space in front of them to get away.

There’s lots of advice out there on how to greet a dog, but not all of it is good. In general, it’s best not to greet a dog unless they come over to say hi, but this isn’t always possible.

In this case, you should try not to make direct eye contact and turn side-on to seem less threatening. Most of all, always keep the dog’s comfort at the forefront of your mind – given time and patience, you’ll soon be a trusted person!

You might also want to read: How to bond with a dog and how to be the best dog owner.

Edited by Megan Milstead.

Are you wondering, 'How to entertain a cat that doesn’t like toys?' This is something I get asked surprisingly often in practice. It’s easy to assume that all cats love a good play session with a toy mouse or a tinkling ball, but the truth is, not every cat is motivated by traditional toys.

If your feline friend isn’t interested in the usual offerings from the pet shop, don’t worry. There are still plenty of ways to keep them engaged, happy, and mentally enriched.

I'm a small animal vet with more than 13 years of experience, and I’ve worked with countless cats, each with their own unique personality and preferences. Some cats are naturally playful, while others prefer a quieter, more observational lifestyle. The key is to find what sparks your cat’s curiosity and build enrichment around that.

Below, I explore why some cats don’t like toys, how to tell if your cat is under-stimulated, and – most importantly – share lots of simple, practical ideas for enriching your cat’s life without relying on toys. And if you’re still on the hunt for the right toy, don’t miss our guide to the best cat toys for indoor cats.

How to entertain a cat that doesn’t like toys

Not every cat enjoys batting around plastic balls or chasing feather wands. If toys aren’t your cat’s thing, try one (or several!) of these alternative enrichment ideas:

1. Create a window perch for bird watching
Cats are natural hunters, and even if they’re not the type to chase a toy around the house, they’ll often enjoy watching the world go by. Set up a comfy window perch or cat hammock by a secure window where they can watch birds, squirrels, or even just the neighbors coming and going. Bonus points for adding a bird feeder outside to make things even more interesting!

2. Offer cardboard boxes and paper bags
Sometimes the simplest things are the most fun. Cardboard boxes and paper grocery bags (with the handles removed for safety) can provide hours of entertainment. They’re perfect for hiding, pouncing, and exploring, plus, they appeal to your cat’s natural instincts without needing fancy toys.

3. Use scent-based enrichment
If your cat isn’t into movement-based play, try tapping into their sense of smell. Sprinkle a little dried catnip, valerian root, or silvervine on a soft blanket or scratcher. Some cats love rolling in it, sniffing, and rubbing their cheeks. Check out our guide to the best catnip toys, too.

4. Make mealtimes more interesting
Feeding routines can double as mental stimulation. Try scattering kibble around a room, hiding food in toilet roll tubes, or using one of the best puzzle feeders and lick mats. This encourages natural foraging behaviors and gives your cat something to “work” for.

5. Try clicker training
Clicker training isn’t just for dogs! Cats can learn simple tricks and behaviors using positive reinforcement. Start small, like teaching your cat to sit, touch a target, or jump onto a stool. It's an excellent way to bond, build confidence, and stimulate their brain. You might also want to read our guide on how to teach a cat a trick.

6. Rotate environments and rearrange furniture
Changing your cat’s environment, even slightly, can reignite their curiosity. Move a cat tree to a new location, swap out bedding, or create a new hidey-hole under a chair. Environmental novelty can be just as enriching as toys - if not more so. Just be careful to gauge your cat’s reaction, as moving things around too much may stress your cat out.

7. Encourage interaction with you
Some cats are more people-focused than toy-focused. Simply sitting on the floor, talking to your cat, gently stroking them, or letting them rub against you can be enough stimulation for certain individuals. Don’t underestimate the power of quality one-on-one time and focused attention.

Is it normal for my cat to not play with toys?

Yes, some cats just don’t like toys, and that’s completely normal. While play is an important behavior, not all cats express it in the same way. Some cats prefer watching rather than doing, especially as they get older or if they’ve never been encouraged to play as kittens.

Breed and personality also play a role. For instance, highly active breeds like Bengals and Abyssinians are usually toy-driven, whereas quieter cats like Persians might prefer to snooze and observe rather than chase. As long as your cat is otherwise healthy, content, and getting enrichment in other ways, there’s no need to worry.

Just be aware, if a cat suddenly stops playing or becomes withdrawn, it’s worth checking in with your vet, as this could be a sign of pain, illness, or stress.

How do I tell if my cat is under stimulated?

Cats who aren’t getting enough stimulation can develop behavioural or emotional issues. Here are a few signs your cat might be understimulated:

• Excessive sleeping or lethargy: It’s normal for cats to sleep a lot, but if your cat is only sleeping and never showing bursts of energy or curiosity, they could be bored.
• Destructive behavior: Scratching furniture, chewing wires, or knocking things over may be signs your cat is trying to create their own fun in the absence of stimulation.
• Overgrooming or other stress behaviors: Cats who feel unfulfilled may resort to overgrooming, pacing, or even aggression. These behaviors can be both a symptom of boredom and stress.
• Meowing excessively or demanding attention: A cat that constantly meows or seems clingy may be trying to tell you they need more engagement, just not in the form of a squeaky mouse toy!

If you suspect your cat is understimulated, try gradually introducing some of the enrichment techniques mentioned above, and monitor how they respond.

Not all cats are captivated by traditional toys – and that’s perfectly okay. Every feline has their own unique preferences and personality. The key is to think outside the (toy) box and explore alternative ways to keep them mentally and physically engaged, whether through interactive feeding, environmental enrichment, or bonding time with you.

With a little patience and creativity, even the most toy-averse cat can find joy in stimulation that suits their individual style. If you are ever worried, remember your vet is always there to help if you’re unsure about your cat’s behavior or wellbeing.

Read next: I tried ‘nosework’ with my cats and it’s transformed our bond and what to do if your cat won't play. Or get more expert tips on how to play with a cat without toys.

Edited by Megan Milstead.

If you're looking for a tasty dog pancake recipe, you've come to the right place! While your dog should primarily be fed the best dog food, these pancakes make a great treat for a special occasion – such as Pancake Day – and aren't as unhealthy as you might think.

As with all our recipes, this one has been checked and approved by our in-house vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, who has more than a decade and a half of experience working with pets and graduated from the Royal Veterinary College in London.

She says: "Pup pancakes are great fun for your dog, but just remember that they add a few extra calories to their diet, so keep them as an occasional treat."

To learn how to make them, keep reading!

Dog pancake recipe

Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup of plain flour
• 100ml water 
• 1 egg
• A small amount of olive oil
• Optional toppings: mashed banana, dog biscuits, xylitol-free/single-ingredient peanut butter (like this one on Amazon)

Method:

1. Grab a bowl and mix the flour, egg and water together

2. Add a splash of olive oil to a pan and bring it to a medium heat

3. Ladle a portion of the batter into the pan

4. Cook the batter for around 30–40 seconds until the edges begin to color

5. Flip the pancake and cook for another 30–40 seconds

6. Add your toppings

Recipe courtesy of YuMOVE

Can dogs eat pancakes?

If you're wondering whether it's OK for dogs to eat pancakes, the answer is yes! According to Dr. MacMillan, a recipe made with flour, water, egg, and a bit of olive oil is safe for most dogs to enjoy.

She says: "Any time you introduce something new to your pet’s diet, it is important not to overdo it. So, offer a small amount to begin with and check there are no adverse effects, such as tummy troubles.

"You should give this recipe a miss if your dog has been diagnosed with an egg allergy though, or if they have a gluten intolerance. Gluten-free flour is available as an alternative for these dogs, however."

What toppings can I use?

When it comes to toppings, Dr. MacMillan recommends serving your pancakes plain or using non-toxic ingredients, like xylitol-free peanut butter, mashed banana, or the best wet dog food. If you're unsure about what toppings to avoid, take a look at our feature revealing foods that dogs should never eat.

She says: "You must never use any raisins, cover them in chocolate, or add any spreads that contain the artificial sweetener xylitol, as all of these are toxic to dogs."

For more food inspiration, read our guide to the best dog treats and explore our favorite homemade dog food recipes.

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

If you want to give your feline friend some TLC, then learning how to give a cat a spa day is a great way to do it. While they probably won't enjoy a sauna or a swim like we might, there are plenty of other ways to help them relax and unwind!

Whether you treat them to a restorative head massage or a grooming session with the best cat brushes, they're sure to appreciate your care. As well as being relaxing for your cat, these activities are a great way to bond – and it's always nice to see them having a good time!

Before you get started, it's worth bearing in mind that not all cats like lots of fuss and attention. You should monitor your cat's body language along the way to see how they're feeling. If they're not keen on physical touch, they might prefer a playtime session or a self-grooming toy instead.

Here are our top tips for giving your cat the ultimate spa day at home:

How to give a cat a spa day

1. Create a relaxing environment

First, set the scene with a calm environment that's relaxing for your cat. Choose a location that’s quiet, safe, and free from lots of foot traffic, and provide them with the best cat bed to snuggle into. You'll also want to give them a scratching post and a cat tree and dot their favorite toys around the room.

Unfortunately, essential oils are toxic to cats, so make sure you avoid using these when setting up your spa day. Instead, try plugging in a pheromone diffuser, like this one from Amazon, which can help them to destress.

Cat behaviorist Amanda Campion says: "Creating a calm and stress-free environment is key to helping your cat unwind. Avoid dusk and dawn, when they are most likely to be most active. Dim the lights, play white noise or music, and use calming cat attractant sprays to set a peaceful atmosphere. Ensure your cat has a familiar, safe space to relax undisturbed away from other pets and young children."

2. Give them a massage

Yep, that's right – cats can enjoy massages too! Not only does this feel great and potentially relieve stress, but it can also help with muscle soreness and circulation.

Amanda says: "If your cat is open to it, a gentle massage can be an excellent way to help them relax. Focus on areas they enjoy, such as behind the ears, under the chin, or along their back, using slow, circular motions. Always watch their body language; any tail flicking, ear flattening, or skin twitching are signs they have had enough. Everything must be done with your cat's consent."

4. Brush them

It wouldn't be a pamper day without a grooming session – and we have a complete guide on brushing cats if you're not sure where to start. Not only is this relaxing for your feline, but it also promotes good skin and coat health, helping to remove dirt, grease, skin flakes, and dandruff. There are various types of cat brushes to choose from, with slicker brushes and soft bristle brushes being the most popular choice for most cats.

Amanda says: "Brushing can also be incredibly soothing, especially for cats who enjoy being groomed. Use a soft-bristle brush and move slowly, gently along their coat. If they lean in or purr, they are enjoying the attention; if they move away, stiffen, or show irritation, give them space and stop immediately."

5. Catnip or valerian toys

The best catnip toys can help your feline relax, so you might want to incorporate them into your spa day. If your cat is one of the few who don't react to it, you can try alternatives like silvervine and valerian, which have a similar effect.

Amanda says: "For extra relaxation, try valerian-infused toys or bedding. Valerian has a calming effect on cats, helping them feel at ease."

6. Feed them

After all that relaxing, your cat will probably have worked up an appetite for a spa day snack! If their dietary requirements allow, treat them to something special – like the best cat treats or a tasty topper on their favorite food. If you want to take things to the next level, you could even learn how to make cat treats for a homemade touch.

7. Heated bed for snooze

There's no better way to end a spa day than curling up in one of the best heated pet beds – especially for cats who love to snooze!

Amanda says: "Providing a heated bed or a warm, fleecy blanket can also encourage your cat to fully relax."

Amanda adds: "Always let your cat be in control of their pampering session. If they show any signs of discomfort or overstimulation, stop and give them space. A kitty spa day should always be on their terms!"

You might also want to read about how to be a good cat owner and ways to destress your cat.

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis de Leaver.

Wondering how to tell if your kitten is overweight? It may be something you're concerned about if you have a sneaking suspicion that your young fur friend is a little more fuller figured than you think they should be.

While feeding your new bundle of fluff a diet of the best kitten food is super important for their growth and development, it's also vital to consider portion size.

How much food a kitten should eat will depend on their age and breed and sticking to the guidelines on food packets and tins, or following the advice of your vet, is the best way to ensure your feline stays fit and well.

To help you figure out if your kitten weighs more than they should, we consulted expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan. Below, she outlines the signs that may indicate you kitten is overweight, some potential reasons that may be causing this and how you can help your kitten to shed those extra pounds.

How to tell if your kitten is overweight

Bringing home a new kitten is such an exciting time, but that excitement can soon turn to worry if you notice your fur friend gaining too much weight.

We found ourselves curious about whether or not there's any way you can gauge whether your kitten is the right weight or not and it turns out, there is!

Here are the signs Dr. MacMillan suggests you be on the lookout for...

1. It will be difficult to feel their ribs and spine

According to Dr. MacMillan, you should be able to easily feel your pet's ribs and spine when you run your hand over their chest and back. If you're able to do this, that's a great sign your kitten is the right weight. "If you have to probe your fingers in to find them then there may be too much fat coverage," she explains.

2. They will have no obvious waist

A healthy animal should have a visible waist and a tucked-up abdomen when you view them from the side. You're looking for an "hourglass appearance when viewed from above," states Dr. MacMillan. "A large or saggy tummy area could indicate your kitten is overweight.

3. They may appear larger than other kittens their age

"If your kitten is heavier and appears more rounded than their siblings, or other cats of a similar age, then they could be overweight," says Dr. MacMillan.

4. Ask your vet

Certain types of large breed cats, like the Maine Coon, are always going to be bigger in frame and heavier in weight than small breed cats, like the Singapura. Because kittens can vary considerably in size, Dr. MacMillan suggests asking your vet for advice.

"They will be able to weigh your kitten and assess their body condition for you. You should seek professional advice before making changes to your kitten’s diet, especially if your kitten is still young and growing."

Why is my kitten overweight?

Just like when it comes to us humans, weight gain in kittens can be caused by many single or overlapping factors. Below, Dr. MacMillan shares some of the most common causes that could be contributing to your kitten being overweight.

1. Sedentary lifestyle

If your kitten currently lacks opportunities to run, jump and play, this could make them prone to weight gain. As Dr. MacMillan explains, "Most kittens are naturally very active, but cage-rest for medical reasons or living in a very confined space could make this tricky."

2. Too many treats

"It can be hard to resist your kitten's adorable face but offering them too many cat treats can lead to weight gain," cautions Dr. MacMillan. "This includes human food scraps as well as kitty snacks."

3. Neutering

Neutering your pet is really important. Not only will it prevent unwanted kittens but it can also reduce the risk of certain health problems and put a stop to behaviors cats exhibit when they're in heat. But it does come with a potential downside and that's weight gain.

"Neutering your pet can reduce their daily energy requirements, which may mean they don’t need quite as many calories as an entire cat," Dr. MacMillan advises.

4. Overfeeding

While it may seem obvious, Dr. MacMillan says it's worth reiterating that overfeeding your kitten will lead to excess weight gain. "Not accurately following the feeding guidelines or allowing your kitten to eat ad-lib can result in them consuming too many calories."

It's worth exploring the benefits of timed feeding (putting a measured portion of food down at set times) if you find that your kitten tends to overeat during the day.

5. Eating another pet's food

If you live in a multi-pet household, it can be tricky to ensure that each pet is getting the correct portion of food as some cats are more than happy to eat for two!

"Your kitten may be helping themselves to the food of another pet in your household, as well as their own," says Dr. MacMillan. "If your kitten is big enough to go outside, then they could be eating food elsewhere too."

How to help a kitten to lose weight

From following your vet's top kitten feeding tips to ensuring your young fur friend gets plenty of exercise zooming about in hot pursuit of the best kitten toys, there's plenty of simple things you can do to help your kitten lose weight. Here are a few of our favorites...

1. Check their food intake

The first thing you want to do is to check the feeding guidelines for your chosen kitten food. "You need to weigh your pet’s food out each day, as cups or handfuls are not accurate enough," explains Dr. MacMillan.

'How often should I feed my kitten?' is a common question amongst pet parents but the frequency is less important than the quantity. Once you know how much to feed, you can then decide how to split that up.

For example, a young kitten that's three months of age will likely do best having their calories split across four portions a day. Whereas a four month old kitten may be fine with three meals a day.

2. Take care in multi-pet households

Life with more than one pet in the house can be tricky, especially when it comes to mealtimes. That being said, it's important to ensure your overweight kitten isn't eating another pet's food.

Dr. MacMillan recommends trying "automatic pet feeders, which work by reading your cat’s microchip. Alternatively, you could try establishing set mealtimes and feeding your pets separately."

3. Exercise

"Young cats are usually very active, but you can encourage this further by engaging them in play and making sure they have enough space to exercise," Dr. MacMillan advises.

"Providing them with a cat tree, building shelving for them to climb up on, and encouraging regular chasing games with a feather teaser toy will all help."

4. Make mealtimes more challenging with puzzle toys

Making your kitten work for their food can be a great way to encourage them to stay physically active. Plus, as Dr. MacMillan points out, the best cat puzzle feeders "also provide valuable mental stimulation and stops your kitten wolfing their food down too quickly, helping them to feel more satisfied."

5. Cut back on treats

Treats can be a wonderful way to reward your kitten for positive behavior, but it's easy to go overboard. Dr. MacMillan suggests using smaller treats for training and cutting out random snacks that you give to your young fur friend.

"Some owners reserve some of their kitten’s daily food rations to use as treats throughout the day which can help to ensure they are not receiving extra calories."

6. Speak to your vet team

Dr. MacMillan recommends consulting your vet for advice on diet and exercise for your kitten. "Care needs to be taken in young, growing kittens, and things like reduced-calorie foods may not be age-appropriate," she explains. "They will also be able to advise you on your cat’s weight loss goals."

Found this helpful? Learn about obesity in cats next.

When you’re walking your dog in cold weather, you may have found yourself wondering how you can protect their paws in the winter because there’s going to be a limit with how much cold, wet and ice they can cope with.

Worrying about the effects the snow and ice can have on their paws is one of the reasons many dog owners ask what temperature is too cold to walk a dog?

As Aimee Warner, veterinary surgeon at pet insurance experts Waggel, says, “Dogs face several challenges during winter walks that we may not immediately consider. One major concern is paw protection. Unlike humans who can wear boots, dog paws are directly exposed to the elements. Ice, snow, and salt can irritate or damage their paw pads.”

So, if you’d like to know how to keep your dog’s paws safe in the winter, we have some advice from Warner and vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan to help you help your dog cope with the weather.

How to care for dog’s paws in winter

“The tough pads on dogs’ paws mean that their feet are pretty well protected,” begins Dr MacMillan. “However, some dog breeds are better adapted to winter weather than others.”

Some dogs, like Siberian Huskies, Burnese Mountain Dogs, and Alaskan Malamutes are much better suited to the cold with their larger size and thicker coats, but smaller dogs and those with shorter coats may struggle more.

And, as Dr MacMillan says, “During extremely cold snaps, you may want to think about taking a few extra measures to look after your dog’s paws.”

When your dog’s been outside, ensure that there’s no snow or ice that’s been compacted between their paws, and wash their feet after they’ve been on salted roads or paths.

“Applying a paw wax creates a protective barrier and is a cheap and easy hack if you're not sure where to start,” suggests Warner. “You can even make your own balm at home by melting equal parts beeswax, coconut oil, and shea butter, then letting it cool before applying.”

She suggests that plain coconut oil can also work in a pinch, given its soothing properties, which could offer relief to dry or cracked paws as well as a light barrier against the conditions. Waxes and balms help keep your dog’s skin supple and reduce cracks, too.

However, if you use a balm, you should ensure that your dogs don’t lick their paws. The consumption of any paw balm could be harmful, though the risk increases with larger amounts.

Can dogs wear boots or shoes?

Using dog boots might be the best thing you can do to protect your pup’s paws in the winter, keeping them comfortable and protected from cold-related injuries too – they’re a great way to help keep a dog warm outside.

“Paw balm can be helpful for some dogs, but it is not an alternative to wearing boots, as it will not provide protection against extremes of temperature,” says Dr MacMillan.

“There are a variety of different products out there, so you may need to investigate the best one for your dog’s needs,” she recommends. “Ideally, choose something waterproof and made from durable material. Your dog will need gradual positive reinforcement training if they have never worn boots before, so take things slowly and practice at home before going out for a walk in them.”

Remember, too, that it could take some time for your dog to get used to wearing them, particularly if they aren’t used to footwear, so do your best to be patient.

Keeping paws healthy

It’s important to keep an eye on your dog’s paws no matter the weather or time of year, says Dr MacMillan. She advises, “Inspect them regularly for signs of injury or discomfort. If you suspect, there might be a problem then get your dog examined by your vet.”

If your dog has a medium or thick coat, it might be a good idea to keep the fur that grows between their paw pads trimmed, too, to help prevent matting, give them more traction when it’s slippery, and also help prevent ice from building up when it’s snowy.

You can find out more about how to moisturize a dog’s paw here, while here’s some guidance on how to clean paws. Just remember not to overdo things. If your dog’s paw pads are soft already, moisturizing them could mean that they become more susceptible to tearing or ripping when they walk on rough or damp surfaces.

Protecting your dog in the cold

If you’re concerned about protecting your dog’s paws, it might be a good idea to look at some other ways to help keep your pup safe in the cold.

Warner recommends adding a light to your dog’s collar (like this one on Amazon) if there’s a lot of snow or fog, as reduced visibility can make it harder for us to keep track of our pups – and could disorient them too.

Be sure to keep your dog hydrated, too, and keep in mind that walking in tricky weather conditions can use more energy than walking in milder temperatures, so it’s important to keep an eye out for fatigue and exhaustion in your pup.

And remember, dogs can get hypothermia in very cold conditions just like humans – and dogs can lose heat through their paw pads. If you’re concerned that your dog could be at risk of hypothermia, why not get them to wear one of the best dog coats alongside their boots?

“Signs of hypothermia in dogs include shivering, lethargy, weakness, and slowed breathing,” says Warner. “Frostbite can affect the ears, tail, paws, and other extremities, and signs of frostbite in dogs include pale or grey skin, coldness to the touch, and blisters or open sores.”

If you’re concerned about either hypothermia or frostbite, speak to your vet right away. In the meantime, it’s best not to rub the areas affected, as this could damage them further, but warm your dog with blankets gently.

Meanwhile, how cold is too cold for dogs in winter? And find out what our expert vet thinks on the subject ‘Do dogs need coats?’

There's nothing better than drinking a cozy cup of hot cocoa during the festive season. While chocolate is toxic for dogs, they don't have to miss out on this classic Christmas tradition altogether as we have a tasty, safe alternative you can make for them instead.

This recipe was put together by our in-house vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, who assures us it's perfectly safe for your dog to consume. Her secret ingredient has a sweet, nutty caramel flavor that your dog is going to love and it's super affordable to buy.

There are lots of other ways that you can include your dog in the holiday fun, like treating them to one of the best dog advent calendars and buying them a special gift to put under the tree. But if you want to try this delicious recipe, keep on reading...

Dog-friendly hot chocolate recipe

Ingredients:

• 1/2 teaspoon of 100% carob powder
• 1/2 cup of water
• Whipped cream* (optional)

*Vet's note:

Dr. MacMillan says: "While whipped cream is not toxic to dogs, you should use it sparingly as some dogs struggle to digest dairy products, resulting in stomach upsets. Cream can also add extra calories to your dog’s diet which may result in weight gain over time."

Method:

1. Gently warm up the water.

2. Stir in your carob powder until it dissolves.

3. Let it cool down.

4. Check the temperature isn't too hot before serving to your dog. It's best to serve it on the cooler side rather than burning them.

5. Top with whipped cream (optional).

What are the benefits of carob powder for dogs?

If you're looking for a safe chocolate alternative for dogs, carob is a brilliant choice and has similarities in taste. We asked Dr. MacMillan more about it...

She says: "It is extracted from the pods of the carob tree but unlike cocoa, it does not contain caffeine or theobromine. Carob products also don’t have the same levels of fat and sugar as real chocolate. Carob is still tasty though; it is slightly sweet and has a nutty caramel-like flavor. It also contains a variety of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, as well as fiber which helps to support digestive health.

"You can buy a variety of carob products for dogs, including carob drops, carob chocolate blocks, and carob powder. As with any treat, don’t go overboard. Make sure that carob does not make up more than 10% of your dog’s diet in any one day and introduce new food items to your pet gradually, to avoid tummy troubles."

Why is chocolate toxic to dogs?

Since chocolate contains caffeine and theobromine (which dogs can't easily process), it's toxic to them. That's why it's super important to opt for a pup-friendly alternative to avoid chocolate poisoning in dogs and the following symptoms:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Hyperexcitement
• Tremors
• Seizures
• Death

Dr. MacMillan says: "Chocolate toxicity is dose-dependent. This means that the more chocolate your dog consumes, the more at risk they are. The levels of caffeine and theobromine can vary between different products too, with darker chocolates and cocoa powders containing higher levels.

"Even a small amount of dark chocolate can be problematic. Bodyweight also impacts toxicity, with small dogs much more susceptible to chocolate poisoning than larger dogs that consume the same amount.

"Symptoms of chocolate toxicity may not be seen for 2–24 hours post-ingestion. You must get your dog to a vet as soon as possible so that treatment is started early, even if your dog currently seems fine."

The holiday season is here, and what better way to include your dog in the festivities than by training them to open their Christmas presents?

No doubt, you’ve already got them one of the best dog advent calendars ready for a daily treat—but is the pile of doggy presents also growing? Let’s help them to unwrap the amazing gifts you and your family have bought for them.

As a certified canine behaviorist, I’ve worked with dogs of all shapes and sizes to teach unique tricks. Trick training is a great way to tire out your dog - and who doesn’t want a relaxed, calm dog over the festive period? That’s why I’m excited to share this fun, step-by-step guide to help your dog join in on the Christmas magic.

Get started today and your dog will be unwrapping gifts in no time - joining in on family traditions in a new way.

Can dogs unwrap presents?

Dogs can absolutely unwrap presents. They may even do it of their own accord as many dogs love the excitement of gripping and ripping the paper, especially if they can smell a treat or one of the best dog toys inside. Natural curiosity and an instinctive desire to get to food will help drive them in this behaviour.

Some dogs may need a little guidance or encouragement at first, but once they understand the concept, you’ll find it’s easy for them to become experts..

Pet-safe wrapping paper - plus supervision of any presents that might not be ideal for them to open - are important to ensure they don’t accidentally ingest anything harmful.

How to train your dog to open Christmas presents

Utilizing your dog’s natural curiosity around both scent and either food or toys, is a great way to teach them this new trick.

Choose what your dog loves the most - whether it's their favorite piece of food or a toy they enjoy playing with. The key to this trick is to start nice and easy so your dog gets a quick win!

Option 1: Food or scent

1. Wrap one of the best dog treats or an interesting smell (such as a little piece of fur from a friend’s dog or some sheep’s wool) loosely in tissue paper. Make sure it’s very easy for your dog to be able to get inside the parcel.

2. Place this parcel on the floor in front of your dog and wait for them to start nudging it. They may unwrap it fully straight away - at which point you can use a marker such as “yes” or a clicker to tell them that’s the behavior you like to see.

3. Then, give them a bonus treat as a reward. If they don’t try to unwrap the gift, start marking small steps towards your end goal of the unwrapping - such as them nosing the parcel or even just sniffing it. Give a treat every time they do this little bit of movement, then over a few repetitions, wait for a little bit more interaction each time.

4. Once your dog has the idea of diving into the parcel to find out what’s inside, put a cue on this new behavior. Say something like “unwrap it” then give your dog the parcel. Once they have unwrapped it, give another marker (your “yes” or clicker) and a final treat to reward them.

Option 2: Toys

For some dogs, even the smell of a tennis ball can get them excited. You can utilize their desire for toys in the same way as you do with food.

1. Hide their favorite toy inside an empty, open gift bag and wait for them to delve inside. You can also use a cardboard box for the same effect. In this situation, you can either reward your dog with a treat for finding the toy or you can give them a few minutes of play with the toy they've just unwrapped.

2. Once your dog is finding the toy easily in something that’s got an open end, start to close up the box or seal the bag with something they can push open.

3. Then, move onto placing some tissue paper over the top, before eventually wrapping the item in wrapping paper.

4. When your dog is acing finding the toy each time, put a cue on it such as "unwrap the ball” before presenting it to your dog.

Next steps

With both of these approaches, you want to start slowly, using either an open item such as a gift bag or box, or something lightweight like tissue paper. Over time, build the container difficulty up slowly - moving to something wrapped in kitchen roll, then brown paper, before you use actual wrapping paper

Ensure that the item is interesting enough for your dog to want to work for it. Or, make the reward valuable enough to motivate them.

Safety tips to keep in mind

While it’s super cute to see your dog unwrapping their own gifts, please remember that the contents of the gift inside need to be both rewarding for the dog and safe for them to interact with.

If you ask them to unwrap any gifts of your own, make sure there’s nothing sharp or dangerous inside the parcel and ensure you have a good “drop” cue if they pick up your gift, rather than just taking the treat for unwrapping it.

It’s also important to note that they may start to generalize the behavior and if you leave wrapped presents under the tree unsupervised, they may go rogue and start opening everything. If family members are likely to give you any treats such as chocolate or alcohol, make sure these aren’t placed under the tree to keep your dog safe from ingesting the wrong thing.

You might also want to read: The best dog Christmas movies and How to have a Christmas tree with a dog.

If you've recently adopted a new feline friend, you're likely wondering how to be a good cat owner.

It might go without saying, but you'll need to invest in essential supplies, such as the best cat bed for them to snooze in, high-quality food that's suitable for their age and lifestyle, and a variety of toys for playtime. It's also crucial that they have access to fresh water, get enough exercise, and have regular checkups with the vet.

There’s a lot to consider before bringing home a new kitten, so to help you prepare and feel confident, we’ve called in Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, a qualified vet with over 15 years of experience. Below, she explains five key ways you can become the best cat owner possible.

How to be a good cat owner

Being a good cat owner is all about making sure their care and health needs are met, according to Dr. MacMillan. While your furry friend will appreciate cuddles and the best cat toys, you'll need to practice the 'Five Freedoms' every day to ensure they're receiving the basic standards of care:

1. Freedom from hunger and thirst

Dr. MacMillan says: "It is important to feed your cat the correct daily amount of a complete diet, which is appropriate for their age and lifestyle."

Kitten food has a higher calorie, fat, and protein content compared to adult and senior cat food. In fact, kittens need up to three times as many calories! Since they are in a rapid development stage, they require extra energy to fuel their growth, so feeding them the best kitten food tailored to their needs is essential.

Protein is vital for cats of all ages, but it’s especially important for senior cats to help maintain their muscle mass. The best cat food for senior cats may also include omega-3 fatty acids to support joint health and reduce inflammation.

If your cat doesn’t drink much water, you might consider feeding them the best wet cat food, which has a higher moisture content. However, some evidence suggests that the best dry cat food can help keep their teeth looking cleaner. Specially formulated diets approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council may even help reduce plaque and tartar build-up.

Dr. MacMillan says: "This also means ensuring that your cat always has access to fresh drinking water."

One way to encourage your cat to drink more is by investing in one of the best pet water fountains. In the wild, cats tend to drink from free-flowing streams, and these devices mimic that natural flow while keeping the water bowl clean and free from impurities. Just keep in mind that it might take your cat a little while to get used to it.

2. Freedom from discomfort

Dr. MacMillan says: "Being a good cat owner means housing your cat in an appropriate environment, with a suitable temperature and noise level, natural light, and a comfortable resting space."

Once you've bought the best cat hammock or bed, be sure to place it in a quiet, undisturbed area of your home. Many cats prefer elevated resting spots, as being off the ground provides them with a sense of security and protection.

3. Freedom from pain, injury, and disease

Dr. MacMillan says: "It is crucial that your cat has access to regular and prompt veterinary care. You must take your pet to routine checkups and vaccinations, as well as seek help for them as soon as you detect a health issue."

To avoid racking up a hefty medical bill, it’s worth considering the best pet insurance as a safety net. Cats are prone to getting in fights with neighborhood moggies, which can sometimes result in wounds and infections, and treatment can cost anywhere up to $2,500. Picking the right policy can be a lengthy (and tedious) process, so be sure to read our top tips on how to choose pet insurance.

4. Freedom to express normal behavior

Dr. MacMillan says: "As a good cat owner, you should encourage normal behavior. This means making sure your pet has enough space to run, play, and jump. It also means providing things like scratch posts and cat trees, to allow your cat to do normal feline things like climbing and sharpening their claws."

There are lots of reasons why you should buy one of the best cat scratching posts. Not only do they encourage exercise and help relieve stress, but they also aid in removing the outer sheath of your cat’s claws, keeping them in good condition. It will also save your furniture from being destroyed too, which is always a bonus!

5. Freedom from fear and distress

Dr. MacMillan says: "The way you interact with your cat, and the conditions in which you keep them, shouldn’t cause your pet any mental suffering. This also includes not overcrowding your home.

"Too many cats or other pets can lead to stress for some of our feline companions, resulting in physical symptoms like overgrooming or inappropriate toileting. Providing mental enrichment and places to safely hide are also important for our cat’s mental health."

If you live in a multi-cat household, make sure to provide plenty of hiding spots positioned up high. According to cat behaviorist Amanda Campion, these elevated spaces allow cats to observe their surroundings and feel safe when threatened.

It’s also important to give enough resources for each cat, such as the best cat litter boxes, water stations, and food, to prevent jealousy and reduce competition. The best cat puzzle feeders are a great way to provide mental stimulation, preventing boredom and stress.

Being a good cat owner means meeting your cat’s essential needs and providing them with proper care. Understanding cat body language and recognizing the signs a cat is happy will go a long way in the process.

To learn more, check out our guide on ways to be the best cat owner you can and our new kitten checklist. You might also want to learn how to give a cat a spa day and signs your cat loves you.

Thanksgiving is quickly approaching and if you're putting your menus together be sure to add these fun and easy-to-make DIY Thanksgiving dog treats.

We know what it's like when you've sat down for your Thanksgiving meal and your pup is sitting next to giving those big puppy dog eyes, waiting for a piece of your meal. While we know that there are some surprising things dogs can eat besides dog food, most Thanksgiving foods are off-limits for dogs.

You can always err on the side of caution by serving up some of the best dog food, but why not have some festive fun for your pup this year and try out these DIY Thanksgiving dog treats? They are quick and easy and your pup is sure to love them.

Turkey meatballs

Can dogs eat turkey at Thanksgiving? Technically, yes but you'll want to be sure that it is free from bones, skin, and seasoning. Alternatively, you can try out these fun turkey meatballs.

Your pup is sure to love these meatballs, and they're a great way to use up leftover turkey from Thanksgiving. You can also make these meatballs year-round using ground turkey. You'll need a food processor for this recipe.

Recipe credit: The Dog People

You'll want to avoid using any toxic ingredients such as garlic and onions as they are foods that dogs should never eat.

Ingredients:

• 1lb of leftover turkey (bones and skin removed)
• 1/2 cup of rolled oats
• 2 tbsp of plain yogurt
• 1 cup mixed veggies (peas, carrots and green beans)

Instructions:

1. Preheat your oven to 400°F
2. Add turkey pieces to food processor and pulse a few times to break up the meat
3. Add in the oats and pulse until all ingredients look well combined
4. Add egg and yogurt and pulse until mixture starts to hold together
5. Move your mixture into a large mixing bowl
6. Add in cooked veggies and mix through with your hands
7. Roll into 1" balls and bake for 20 mins or until golden brown

Thanksgiving dog biscuits

These Thanksgiving-themed dog treats are sure to be a favorite Thanksgiving day addition. These are a twist on the DIY dog treats we covered before, you'll just swap out the bacon for turkey slices. Be sure the skin and bones are removed.

Recipe credit: Sally's Baking Addiction

Ingredients:

• 1 cup of peanut butter
• 3/4 cup of fat-free milk
• 1 large egg
• 2 cups whole wheat flour
• 1 tbsp baking powder
• 1/3 cup rolled oats
• 2-3 slices of turkey

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 325°F and line two baking trays with parchment paper.
2. In a large mixing bowl combine peanut butter, milk, and eggs. Then add the flour and baking powder. Finally, mix in the oats and turkey.
3. With a floured rolling pin, roll out the mixture and use your choice of cookie cutters to make different shapes.
4. Bake for 18-20 minutes then remove from oven and flip treats over baking for another 10-12 minutes.
5. Allow them to cool completely before serving to your pup.
6. Enjoy!

Cran-Apple sauce frozen paws

We saved the best for last with these adorable frozen paws. This is a fun way for your pup to have their own cranberry addition to Thanksgiving. These frozen paws are quick to whip up and you can make batch to have on hand whenever your dog wants a frozen treat.

Recipe credit: Red Dog Blue Kat

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup of chopped apples
• 1/2 cup of cranberries
• 1/2 cup of water
• Sprig of fresh rosemary

Instructions:

1. Boil all ingredients until apples and cranberries are soft.
2. Remove the rosemary
3. With a potato masher, turn fruits into a paste-like texture.
4. Spoon or pipe your mixture into your ice molds and freeze.
5. Enjoy!

Enjoy this feature? Check out Thanksgiving food do's and don'ts for your dog this holiday season!

As the weather gets colder, you might be wondering how to keep a rabbit warm in the winter. That's why we've called in vet Dr. MacMillan to share her expert advice and answer your important questions like, 'How cold is too cold for a rabbit?'

There are lots of ways that you can keep your bunny warm, like putting extra insulation in the best outdoor rabbit hutch and making sure that no drafts can get in. If your rabbit gets too cold, it can lead to hypothermia, frostbite, or even death, so it's essential you take all the steps listed below.

You might be curious how wild rabbits do so well in frosty climates, and Dr. MacMillan explains that it's because they're better adapted. She says: "Wild rabbits are better adapted to very low temperatures and live in groups that can snuggle up to each other in small cozy burrows."

How do I keep my rabbit warm in the winter?

Here are her top tips for keeping your rabbit warm in the winter:

1. Give them a warm place to rest
To keep your bunny toasty when they're sleeping, make sure you provide them with more nesting materials, like the best bedding for rabbits. You could also put a fleecy cover over a heat pad (like this one on Amazon), but just make sure it's chew-proof like the one we recommend below.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "You could also line the area with newspaper which will provide extra insulation. [This will also] help to soak up any spills or moisture from toileting which might make things cold and damp. Rabbits are best kept in pairs or groups, and you will find that they can stay warm by snuggling with their companions for extra body heat. A single rabbit is more susceptible to drops in temperature."

2. Ensure their home and exercise area is in good repair
Have a look around for damp patches that can cause mold, ammonia build-up, and respiratory issues for your bunny. You'll also need to lift their living quarters off the ground to prevent them from becoming rotten or damp and check for any cracks to stop drafts.

The roofing needs to be watertight to keep them dry and you should insulate their home with materials like blankets and old carpets. You can also put a waterproof cover or tarpaulin over the top.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "Just ensure that they still get some ventilation through any wire mesh areas, these could be covered with a loose-fitting transparent sheet of plastic."

3. Move them indoors if you need to
Be prepared to move your rabbit indoors if the weather gets too cold – especially if it's snowy or icy! If you can't bring them into your home, you could put them in an unused garage or a large shed, but they'll need a window for some natural light and one of the best indoor rabbit hutch setups.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Remember that if this space is unheated then their enclosure will still need the extra insulation and bedding that was advised earlier."

4. Check their water and food
This step doesn't technically keep them warm, but it's something that should definitely be on your checklist! In the winter, water bowls and bottles can freeze up so you'll want to check them daily to ensure they have access to fresh water.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Make sure that your rabbits get enough greens during the winter, alongside ad-lib hay. They won’t be able to forage as easily for dandelions and grass when it is cold and frosty."

Here's some more expert advice on what to feed a rabbit and a guide to the best hay for rabbits.

What temperature is too cold for rabbits?

You should keep your rabbit's home between 50-68° F (10-20°C). According to Dr. MacMillan, this is the temperature that most bunnies prefer to live in, so they'll be happy if it's in this range.

How do I know if my bunny is warm enough?

Your rabbit will display all their normal behaviors if they warm enough, like playing, eating and producing lots of feces. However, if you're still concerned, Dr. MacMillan suggests measuring their environment's temperature with a thermometer.

She adds: "Rabbits don’t hibernate, so if yours seem quiet, limp, or very sleepy then take them to a vet immediately."

Found this helpful? We also have a guide with tips from a vet on housing rabbits outdoors.

If you want to learn how to make cat treats, I highly recommend this easy recipe. They're high in protein, low in fat, and are formulated by our expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan.

When it comes to baking, my pet peeve is having to buy 100 ingredients that I'll never use again, so I'm pleased that these only have four ingredients. As well as being nutritious and simple, they're a huge hit with my cats Chilli and Nala and I'm confident your felines will love them too.

The best cat treats don't have to be homemade; there are plenty of store-bought options that are just as good, but making them yourself can be a lot of fun. Baking your fur friend a delicious snack is a great way to show your love — and this recipe only takes 30 minutes in total!

Dr. MacMillan says: "Whichever type of treat you choose to give your pet, make sure that you offer it in moderation. Treats should not make up any more than 10% of your pet’s daily food intake. If your cat eats too many treats, they will be less likely to eat their normal complete cat food, which could lead to dietary imbalances and problems like weight gain. You should also take extra special care with cats that have health conditions like diabetes or kidney disease. Speak with your vet if you are unsure what you can feed your cat."

How to make cat treats

Tasty Tuna Treats

Ingredients:

• 6 oz. can of tuna in spring water (undrained)
• 1 cup of flour
• 1 cup of cornmeal
• 1/3 cup of water

Method:

1. Mix the ingredients together in a bowl.

2. Once the mixture forms a dough, roll it to approximately ¼ inch thickness.

3. Slice into small cat-sized pieces and place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Mine had to be broken in half, so I recommend doing them a little bit smaller than I did in the picture below.

4. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit until golden brown for approximately 20 minutes. Make sure they're not too hard!

How should you store homemade cat treats?

"Homemade cat treats should be stored in an airtight container, somewhere out of reach of your kitty! Keep them at room temperature, in a cupboard or pantry, and use them up within 14 days", says Dr. MacMillan.

What are the benefits of these homemade cat treats?

• High in protein: Tuna is an excellent protein source, helping with muscle repair and immune function.
• Low in fat: Tuna is also low in fat - perfect for cats on a low-calorie diet.
• Dairy-free: This recipe is easy for your cat to digest as it doesn't contain dairy.
• Delicious: Most cats can't get enough of fish, so your feline is going to love the taste of these treats.

What ingredients should I avoid when making homemade cat treats?

If you want to try another homemade cat treat recipe, Dr. MacMillan warns against the following ingredients:

• Onion
• Garlic
• Raisins
• Grapes
• Salt
• Sugar
• Butter
• Mayonnaise
• Cream

Homemade cat treats vs store-bought cat treats

You might be wondering if homemade cat treats are better...

Dr. MacMillan says: "There is not one type of cat treat that is necessarily better than another. If you choose treats from a reputable manufacturer, they should have a veterinary nutritionist on their team who helps to formulate the recipes. This will give you some confidence in the product.

"Store-bought treats also have the advantage of a long shelf life and don’t require the same level of preparation that home-made treats do. The advantage of homemade treats is that they will be freshly baked and could be more palatable to fussy cats. You will also have the satisfaction of creating them and watching your kitty chomp them up."

Enjoyed this? You might also want to read: How to make homemade raw cat food or soup for cats

If you keep finding holes in your backyard, then you might be wondering how to stop a dog from digging. We're not surprised if you're feeling frustrated by this behavior — it causes a huge mess in your outdoor space which costs time and money to fix.

As well as being inconvenient for you, it could also be dangerous for your pup if they're trying to escape and you live near a busy road. Some dogs might try to dig their way out under fences or gates, so it's worth keeping an eye on these areas in particular.

There are lots of reasons why your dog might be digging which Gareth Dickinson, an expert trainer at Forever Home Dog Training, has explained below.

He's given his top tips for preventing this behavior, like keeping them entertained using the best dog toys and going for regular walks. He's also explained whether you should discipline a dog for it and which breeds do it the most.

How to stop a dog digging

Gareth says that you need to consider the following things:

• Why your dog is digging
• How long it's been going on
• What their breed is

Once you've got to the bottom of these questions, you'll have a better idea on how to handle it best.

Gareth says: "In order to overcome the dog digging, there needs to be appropriate outlets for the dog to take part in."

Make sure you're taking your dog on a variety of walks to ensure they're getting the physical and mental stimulation they need. Perhaps you could explore a new route, play a game of hide and seek or organize a doggy play date at the park. Not only will this keep them physically fit, but it will contribute toward good mental health and happiness. If you want some more ideas, we've written 12 ideas to help keep dog walks fun.

Gareth also recommends trying enrichment activities, like lick mats, Kongs, and puzzle games which are great for mental stimulation.

He adds adds: "If your dog is focusing on a particular area to dig at, you may want to consider blocking it off and redirecting the dog into another activity to reduce the fixation."

How to discipline a dog that’s digging

When you're unhappy with your dog's behavior, you should avoid using training methods that are harsh or aversive and use positive reinforcement for dogs instead.

Gareth says: "Harsh or aversive methods can increase the dog's desire to continue this behavior as we are drawing attention to it. We don't want to implement fear in the dog that could lead to redirected frustration."

Rather than disciplining your dog, you should redirect them with an item or activity that's high-value and rewarding, advises Gareth. You could use one of the best durable dog toys or if you have a little one, the best puppy toys. If you're stuck for activity ideas, here are eight fun games to play with dogs that are recommended by a behaviorist.

Why do dogs dig?

If you're wondering, 'Why is my dog digging?' you're not alone; this is a common question that pup parents ask Gareth all of the time. Here are some reasons he says your dog might be doing it:

1. They're exploring their surroundings

If you've recently brought home a new dog, then they might want to explore their surroundings and get to know the area a little bit better. Unfortunately, this might involve digging and is very common with puppies.

2. The sensation

Gareth says: "For some dogs, it could be that they have never experienced it before and the sensation on their paws and nose is simply overwhelming. This can sometimes happen with a rehomed or rescue dog."

3. Genetics

Genetics might also have a role in your dog's digging habits. Whilst there are lots of dogs who love to dig, working breeds have a tendency to do it more - especially labrador retrievers, golden retrievers, border collies, and German shepherds.

4. Frustration or overstimulation

Gareth says: "When a dog becomes frustrated or overstimulated and not given appropriate activities, this can result in the dog finding their own entertainment and begin digging." If this is the case, you could try playing these indoor games for dogs.

Found this helpful? You might also want to read: How to stop a dog chewing their bed and how to stop a dog pulling on the leash.

If you want to learn how to make bird suet, then you've come to the right place. With the help of an expert vet, we've created an easy recipe for you to follow at home. The best part? You'll only need 25 minutes, two ingredients and it will cost you under $10 to make.

This is a great way to attract more flying friends into your garden and you can customize the recipe to attract particular birds. If you like chickadees and robins, try white millet; for finches, use flaxseed; or for morning doves, safflower seeds work well. Alternatively, you could put out some of the best bird food if you don't have time.

Bird suet is high in calories, fats, and nutrients, and is a great source of energy. This is particularly important for birds during the winter when food sources are low and weather conditions are harsh and they might need an extra helping hand. You can find the ingredients in your grocery store and it's pretty inexpensive to make.

Before you get started, you'll need one of the best bird feeders or best squirrel proof bird feeders to put the suet in - otherwise, it could get stuck in their feathers. To learn how to make it, what the benefits are, and whether there's a vegetarian alternative, keep on reading. Vet Rebecca MacMillan has shared her brilliant recipe below:

Jump to recipe card

How to make bird suet: ingredients

To make bird suet, you will need:

• 250g of lard
• 500g of dry ingredients (bird seeds, oats, mealworms, fruit or chopped bird-friendly peanuts)

How to make bird suet blocks: method

1. Melt the lard on a low heat in a large saucepan
2. Stir the lard until it has melted
3. Allow it to cool for five minutes
4. Once cooled, stir in the dry ingredients until thoroughly mixed (one spoonful at a time)
5. Once the lard has thickened, spoon the mixture into a baking tray around 2cm deep
6. Spread the mixture evenly and place the tray in the fridge for it to harden
7. After an hour, remove the tray from the fridge and slice it into small blocks
8. Wrap them in greaseproof paper and store in the fridge or refrigerator

How to make bird suet balls: method

1. Melt the lard on a low heat in a large saucepan
2. Stir the lard until it has melted
3. Allow it to cool for five minutes
4. Once cooled, stir in the dry ingredients until thoroughly mixed (one spoonful at a time)
5. Once the lard has thickened, spoon the mixture into a baking tray around 2cm deep
6. Spread the mixture evenly and place the tray in the fridge for up to 10 minutes
7. Remove the mixture and then use your hands to roll and mold the suet into round balls
8. Place these balls on a baking tray and return them to the refrigerator to harden
9. Wrap them in greaseproof paper and store in the fridge or refrigerator
   

Recipe card

Is suet unhealthy for birds?

Is suet unhealthy for birds? No! In fact, Dr. MacMillan explains that it has lots of health benefits. Not only is it highly digestible, but it also provides birds with essential fats, proteins, vitamins, and minerals. It's also high in calories and is a concentrated energy source, making it a one of the best bird food choices for the winter months.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Suet is particularly useful to birds in the cold winter months when food is scarce and birds use a lot of energy just to keep warm. However, it can be offered in garden feeders all year round to help support other energy-consuming activities like breeding and molting. Just remember that your homemade suet may melt in high temperatures or when sat in direct sunlight."

We have a helpful guide on what not to feed wild birds.

Is vegetable suet good for birds?

As you'll see in the recipe above, suet is made using lard which is 100% animal fat. However, if you're looking for a vegetarian-friendly alternative, you can swap this for vegetable shortening instead. Since it's an energy-dense fat source, Dr. MacMillan says that it works well as a substitute and has other advantages too.

She explains: "This vegetable fat will be similar to handling lard, so it is a fine substitute. Vegetable suet is still an energy-dense fat source, plus it has the advantage that it has a more stable shelf-life and is less likely to go rancid if left uneaten in bird feeders for several days."

Found this helpful? You might also want to read: What to feed birds from your garden and what to feed a baby bird.

If you’re preparing your new dog for their first walk, you might be wondering how to positively get a harness on puppy. As a certified animal behaviorist, I know how important it is to start your puppy off on the right paw when it comes to any new experiences - from training, daily routines, new friends, and - in this case - new equipment.

Before you take your dog out into the world, once they’re old enough to explore your neighborhood, it’s important to master putting on their harness. The harness will keep your dog safe and secure on walks, as well as hopefully being a much more comfortable alternative to a collar once they’ve got used to it.

Doing anything that requires stillness with a puppy can be tricky. They’re naturally wriggly, curious, playful, and when overwhelmed, a little nippy!

It’s not just about strapping on the best dog harness - it’s about building positive associations and making sure the fit is just right for your growing pup. In this guide, I’ll walk you through a step-by-step process to help you and your puppy feel confident and calm during this important part of your walking preparation.

How to put a harness on a puppy

To ensure a positive experience for all, I’ve put together a step-by-step guide for you to follow alongside your dog to get the best outcome together.

Choose your harness wisely

Your puppy is likely going to grow quite quickly, so while you won’t want to spend a fortune on a harness they might grow out of in a few weeks, make sure you’re still looking for the most comfortable option. A ‘Y-shaped’ harness where the neck joins the tummy piece with a strap down the middle of the chest is the best option to go for.

Avoid any harnesses where the front piece goes across the shoulders and chest, limiting your puppy's movements on walks. It’s also worth finding a brand that has multiple adjustment points. This means you can put your dog’s harness on without having to slide it over their head, and adjust it as your dog grows. Read up on how to measure a dog for a harness or seek the help of a local pet store for guidance.

Create a positive association with the harness

Many dogs run away at the sight of their harness and this is usually a sign that they’re not comfortable with how it’s being put on. If you rush the process with your young puppy, you could set them up for a lifetime of ‘harness hating’ so start slowing and build up a positive association with the harness. Let’s dive into the process of how to put a dog harness on but remember to take this slow. Take a week or so over the following stages, while you’re waiting for your puppy to be old enough to head out for walks.

1. Show your dog the harness and feed them the best dog treat. This is as simple as lifting the harness up in front of them and tossing a treat for them to chase. You can also try placing the harness on the floor and scatter treats around it for them to sniff out and enjoy.

2. If your harness has multiple adjustment points with clips, then you may be able to take just the back piece off to use on your dog’s body. Place this piece on your puppy’s back (or just lay the whole harness across if you can’t take it apart) and feed your dog a few treats. Build up the time it can sit on your dog’s back slowly.

3. Clip and unclip the straps while playing with your dog or feeding them a yummy bit of food on a lick mat or snufflemat. This allows them to get used to the sound of those clips clicking together.

4. Finally, try placing the whole harness on your puppy and doing up the straps. It’s best to do this while you are at your dog’s level rather than looming over them standing up. Ask your pup to hop up onto a sofa or step if they’re able. You could also place them gently onto a raised and non-slippery surface. Kneel down to their level and scatter a few treats on the floor for them to enjoy while you pop the harness onto their body.

5. Play a quick little game or flick some treats around for your dog to chase while they’re wearing the harness to encourage movement in it and to distract them from the new sensation of wearing it.

6. Remove the harness after a minute or two. Keep these early harness-wearing sessions short and sweet to avoid overwhelm.

7. When you first head out for a walk with your dog in their harness, let them take their time. Encourage movement forward by scattering treats on the floor. Avoid any dragging on the lead and if they appear overwhelmed at any time, then start your journey home. Remember that puppy walks need to be kept short not only due to physical stress on the body but also due to all the stimulation they will experience which can cause them to feel emotionally stressed.

Should you put a harness on a puppy?

You might question whether a harness is the right choice for your puppy or are harnesses bad for dogs. As a behaviorist working with dogs for over a decade, I will always advocate for a puppy to be walking on a harness as opposed to a collar. A harness - when fitted correctly - is going to allow your dog to move naturally, to express their body language more easily, and will spread out any pressure that may occur should they pull on the leash.

It is important to consider some safety aspects. You might, for example, wonder is it safe to leave a harness on a dog all the time? And that definitely is one aspect of harness safety we need to address.

A puppy should only wear their harness when walking outside of your home. Indoors, remove their harness on return from a walk to ensure they’re both comfortable and able to rest well, but also that they can’t get caught on anything within your home. If your puppy is likely to play boisterously with other dogs on walks, then it’s also advisable to remove their harness during play sessions. Keep a collar on them with their ID tag showing, but remove the harness that could get limbs caught in during playtime.

Which harnesses are best for puppies?

There are many types of dog harnesses and not all are equal in both quality or suitability for walking your puppy. While your dog is small, you don’t want to have anything too bulky on their bodies. A simple fleece-lined harness is a good choice. Opt for a harness that has a Y=-shape at the front, instead of one that goes across the shoulder which could impact movement. Here's the difference between a front-clip vs back-clip harness.

A harness that has two D-ring areas for connecting a double-ended training lead can provide you with options for control in the future, but it’s best to avoid attaching the lead to your dog’s chest all the time as this can mean they’re constantly turning their body to the side while walking.

As a new puppy parent, you might be wondering why your dog hates their harness - well we have all the answers! We can also help you explore in more detail how to use a harness on a dog to help you get this important leash-walking skill right.

Learning how to cat-proof your home is an important part of pet parenthood. Not only will it keep your feline safe from dangers, like cables and poisonous plants, but it also ensures your home doesn't get damaged.

Before your cat arrives, you'll need to stock up on all the essentials, like one of the best self-cleaning litter boxes, a scratching post, and a comfortable bed. You'll also need to consider whether they'll be an indoor vs outdoor cat, as the two have slightly different requirements.

Your cat might feel anxious about a new environment, so you can plug in a pheromone diffuser or use a calming cat collar to help them to relax.

We understand that there's a lot to think about, so we've completed a full checklist for you to follow below or bookmark for later:

How to cat-proof your home: Safety tips

1. Secure furniture to the wall

Cats love to climb on top of things, so make sure that any wobbly furniture is secured to the wall.

2. Hide your cables

Cats also love to play with long, dangly things (like chargers and cables), so keep these out of their sight. This is a hazard for strangling and electrocution. You could place them under a rug, behind furniture, or buy a cable runway to neatly tuck them into.

3. Check washing machines and tumble dryers before use

Soft and warm, washing machines and tumble dryers are perfect resting spots in our cats' eyes. So, make sure your fur friend isn't inside before you put them on.

4. Hide fragile objects

Until you get to know your new kitty, keep any fragile objects out of reach to avoid them being knocked over.

5. Hide household cleaning products

Make sure you keep cleaning products out of sight and locked away; these can be lethal if they're ingested and some have a sweet smell that attracts cats.

6. Close your bin

Cats will climb inside anything they can, so make sure you close your bin lids to avoid them getting trapped inside and suffocating. The same goes for toilet seats and plastic bags.

7. Keep kitchen cabinets closed

Eggs, chocolate, and milk are just some of the human foods that are poisonous to cats. Close your kitchen cabinets to avoid them eating anything they shouldn't. If you're preparing food, make sure you clean off any scraps or crumbs promptly.

8. Check your windows and doors are secure

Close your windows and doors to prevent any unwanted escapes. Even if you plan to let them outside eventually, kittens need to stay in until they've had their vaccinations and are settled.

9. Tie up blind cords

Blind cords are irresistible to our feline friends, so you'll want to tie these up or attach them to a hook.

10. Remove toxic plants and flowers

Plants and flowers, like aloe vera and lilies, are toxic to cats and should be removed from your home and your garden. Want to learn how to stop a cat from eating plants? In this feature, we explain how and include a list of all the toxic plants to cats.

11. Hide mothballs

If your cat ingests a mothball, it can cause fatal poisoning. Make sure these are safely stored in a closed drawer at all times.

12. Put away hair bands, yarn and string

Cats might enjoy playing with hair bands, yarn, and string, but they're actually very dangerous when they're ingested. This feature explains why you shouldn't let your cat play with yarn. Instead, offer them the best cat toys to keep them entertained and active.

13. Make sure the house is warm enough

You'll want to ensure your home is the right temperature for your cat. To find out what it is, check out our feature that answers, do cats get cold?

How to cat-proof your home: Essentials to buy

Before you bring your new cat home, make sure you have these essential items:

• Cat food: To keep your kitty happy and healthy, you'll need some of the best cat food.
• Food and water bowl: Cats like to keep their food and water separate, so make sure you have a bowl for each and keep them apart.
• The best cat scratching post: This will prevent them from ripping up your furniture, and will keep their claws in good shape.
• Cat carrier: This will come in handy for emergency vet visits.
• Vertical perches or the best cat tree: Cats enjoy climbing and watching the world from an elevated, private place.

• Litter box, litter and scoop: Cats are clean animals and need a sanitary place to do their business.
• The best microchip cat flap: If you have an outdoor cat, you'll want to invest in a microchip cat flap. They help to keep unwanted visitors away and let you set curfews for your cat.
• Cat toys: You need a good selection of toys as cats need to be played with three to four times a day for 15 to 20 minutes. You might want to check out the best automated cat toys to make things easier.
• The best cat bed: Kittens sleep up to 22 hours a day, so they'll need a comfortable resting spot to retreat to.
• Pheromone diffuser or spray: These mimic the pheromones that a mother cat releases which can help with anxiety in cats.

According to a survey conducted by Ring, these are the top 10 destructive actions cat owners reported:

1. Scratching sofas
2. Scratching carpets
3. Kicking out litter box contents
4. Scratching table legs
5. Staining carpets
6. Destroying curtains
7. Eating plants
8. Breaking mugs
9. Pushing over vases with flowers in them
10. Breaking bowls

Thinking of adopting a kitten? Here's everything you need to know before bringing them home. Wondering, 'Can you train a cat?' This feature reveals the answer.

Many people now enjoy paddleboarding with a dog. It's a super way to bond, exercise, and teach your dog new skills. I'm a qualified dog behaviorist and did paddleboarding with my reactive dog, Poppy. and it helped build her confidence.

I helped a few people learn how to prepare their dogs before they took to the water. Done correctly, most dogs enjoy paddleboarding with their owners.

There are some vital steps to take before paddleboarding with your dog. For instance, did you know that not all dogs can swim? From the offset, getting your dog used to the paddleboard must be fun, and choosing the best dog treats can help with training.

This feature is a step-by-step guide to paddleboarding with your dog so you can both enjoy this fun pastime together for many years.

What you will need for paddleboarding with a dog 

Before heading to the water, here are the three things you will need to make paddleboarding safe for your dog.:

Choose the right size paddleboard

Whether your dog is a Chihuahua or a German Shepherd, you need a long, wide board. Choose a board at least 32" wide and 120" long to provide more stability for you and your dog.

Consider your and your dog's height and weight. The larger the dog, the more unstable a board could be if it is the wrong size.

The board should have a good surface grip

Most paddleboards don't have sufficient grip for a dog's paws. If your dog slides off a few times, he will become reluctant to participate in paddleboarding. Ideally, choose a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) with a full deck pad, so your dog has a good grip. It helps to keep your dog's claws trimmed.

If you already have a paddleboard without an extended pad, another option is to attach a bath mat with suction cups or a yoga mat.

A floatation device for your dog

Even if your dog is a good swimmer, wearing a doggy life jacket is best. Get him used to wearing it at home before you venture into the water.

How to prepare for paddleboarding with a dog 

Ensure your dog can swim

Not every dog is a natural swimmer. I took Poppy to a doggy hydrotherapy center for practice sessions. She was a great swimmer, but our other dog, Luna, was not. It took several sessions for her to gain confidence in the water.

Here are 32 dog breeds that are made for swimming.

Get your dog used to the board

Paddleboarding is a new experience for your dog, so take the time to get him used to everything about it.

How to paddleboard with a dog 

Now you've done the initial training at home, it’s time to head out to the location. Keep paddleboarding sessions short for the first few times out, and praise your pooch when he stays on the board. Follow these five steps:

1. Have someone hold your dog as you go out on the water. Don't go too far; connect frequently with your fur baby on the shore by calling his name.

2. Hold the board in a few inches of water and ask your dog to get onto it and sit.

3. Walk the board in shallow water and treat your dog if he stays on the board, but don’t restrain him if he wants to get off.

4. When your dog is OK with the first three steps, get onto the board with your pup. Staying on your knees at first may be best for better balance.

5. Stand on the board with your doggo in a position that helps him balance and makes it easy for you to paddle without hitting him. Small dogs might be happier sitting near the nose of the board, and bigger dogs sitting or lying between your feet, so their weight distributes across the board.

How to keep your dog safe when paddleboarding 

1. Ensuring your dog's safety if he falls off

Be prepared that your dog may jump off at first, so he must wear a life jacket to keep him safe. Your dog's leap may unbalance you, so ensure you are away from hazards like boats and in deep enough water not to hit the ground. You can help him back onto the board by grabbing the life jacket handle.

2. Teach your dog not to drink seawater

If you plan to paddleboard on the sea, teach your dog a leave command so he doesn’t drink seawater. It could cause dehydration or sickness if your pup drinks too much. Always bring fresh water and a dog bowl to your paddleboarding sessions.

3. Bring a pet first aid kit

A pet first aid kit (like this one from Amazon) is essential and can provide a temporary fix if your dog has a minor accident.

4. Consider using sunscreen for your dog

Sunlight reflects off the water, so any exposed areas, such as a dog's tummy, could get sunburnt. Buy a pet-specific sunscreen and apply it to any exposed areas and pink noses. On hot days, keep paddleboarding sessions short.

5. Rinse your dog after paddleboarding

If you're paddleboarding in seawater, it's advisable to rinse the salt water off after paddleboarding sessions and use a wet cloth to clean inside your doggos ears.

6. Be aware of hazards on the beach

Hot sand can burn your dog's paws. You can get doggy boots to prevent this issue or carry your woofer. Look out for sea creatures like jellyfish.

Paddleboarding with your dog is fun. If you want more ideas for having fun with your pooch, read 32 ways to build more fun into your dog’s routine and how to kayak with your dog

Are you wondering how to stop a cat from pooping in your yard? You’re not alone - dealing with cats defecating in the yard or garden can be a frustrating and persistent problem for many people.

There’s nothing worse than realizing you’ve trodden in a stinky pile of poop, discovering that toileting cats have trampled your beautiful flower borders, or going to pull up some homegrown carrots and finding excrement buried in your vegetable bed!

Whether the culprits are neighborhood cats, strays or your own feline companions, the sight and smell of cat feces in your yard can be unpleasant and unhygienic.

Whilst installing one of the best microchip cat flaps is an easy fix to prevent unwanted feline visitors from entering and toileting inside your home, stopping cats from pooping in your yard can be more of a challenge.

I have eighteen years of experience working with cats in vet clinics, shelters, and rescue and welfare organizations. I hold an International Cat Care Certificate in Advanced Feline Behavior for Cat Professionals and have completed a Postgraduate Diploma in Clinical Animal Behavior. Living in a neighborhood with many free-roaming felines and sharing my home with five cats, I'm no stranger to the problem of finding poop in my garden.

Read on as I share what it means if a cat is pooping in your yard and discover the practical and humane solutions that will discourage them from using your outdoor space as a giant litter box.

How to stop a cat from pooping in your yard

Are you desperate to stop a cat from pooping in your yard? Don’t despair, there are effective strategies you can employ to discourage this undesirable behavior and reclaim your outdoor space:

1. Use strong natural scents as a deterrent:

Cats have a sensitive sense of smell and often avoid potent aromas, so strong, cat-safe, non-toxic scents can be a natural deterrent. You could place chopped banana peel and chicken manure pellets on your flower beds to keep cat poop at bay.

Alternatively, it’s possible to purchase pellets containing essence of lion manure, which can be scattered over beds, borders, and pots. The scent of an apex predator is said to deter domestic cats from digging and pooping in the same area, and the pellets have the added benefit of fertilizing your plants. If you’re trying to deter a neighborhood or stray cat from pooping in your yard, try placing some of your own kitty’s poop around the perimeter, as the intruder may avoid the area if it smells of another cat.

2. Grow plants that cats dislike

Cats naturally avoid some plants because they have prickly leaves or an unpleasant scent. Try planting scaredy cat plant (coleus canina), curry plant, rosemary, lemon balm, or shrub roses.

3. Optimize their indoor litter box set-up

You can encourage your kitty to poop inside by providing them with the best self-cleaning cat litter box. A minimum of one litter box per cat plus one extra is recommended, as many cats prefer to pee in one box and poop in another.

Ensure that litter boxes are big enough - at least one and a half times the length of your cat, so they have plenty of room to turn around. Position them in easy-to-access, quiet, low-traffic areas away from food, water and sleeping areas. Avoid plastic liners and scented litter, as most kitties find these aversive. Scoop regularly and clean the boxes out completely at least once a week to keep them fresh.

4. Get an outdoor litter box

If you don’t mind your own kitty or visiting cats pooping in your yard but would like to prevent them from destroying your seedling and digging up your prized plants, why not provide a more suitable place for them to do their business.

Purchase a rainproof outdoor litter box or create a permanent latrine by digging an area the size of an XL litter box or larger and filling it with fine soil or play sand. Locate it in an area where they’ll have privacy but a clear view of their surroundings to prevent them from being ambushed by other cats, dogs, or wild animals. Scoop regularly to maintain hygiene and be aware that if the ground freezes in winter, you may need to provide an alternative toileting area.

5. Make beds, borders and pots less appealing

You can make your vegetable beds, flower borders, and pots more difficult to access and less appealing to use as a toilet by planting crops and shrubs close together or growing ground-covering plants. Use branches, twigs, bark, stones, or crushed eggshells to cover bare soil, as they’re uncomfortable to walk across and difficult to dig in. Protect seedlings and precious plants with a cloche or mesh barrier. Cats generally avoid digging in wet soil or grass, so keep your plants well-watered and run a sprinkler on your lawn.

What does it mean if a cat poops in your yard?

Pooping outside is a natural behavior for cats but there are several reasons why a cat may choose to poop in your yard.

1. Territorial behavior

Cats are territorial and sometimes use their feces to mark their territory by pooping in an open area and leaving it uncovered, which is known as ‘middening’. The scent and visual marker signals to other cats that this is their domain.

This behavior is particularly prevalent in outdoor cats that have defined territories they patrol and mark regularly. You may also notice urine spraying in your yard, which serves a similar purpose. Check out our feature explaining ‘what does a cat spraying look like?’

Even if your feline companion has access to a catio or enclosed yard they may midden if they feel threatened by intruder cats approaching the catio or sitting on the fence.

2. Substrate preference

Domestic cats evolved from the desert-dwelling African wildcat. They retain their wild ancestor’s preference for eliminating in a soft, sandy substrate because it’s easier for them to dig in and cover their feces, which helps to reduce the scent and protect them from potential predators. For this reason, yards with flower or vegetable beds, freshly tilled soil, or sandboxes are particularly attractive to kitties searching for a place to poop.

3. They’re unhappy with their litter box

If your feline companion has indoor litter boxes but still chooses to poop outside, it may be that they’re unhappy with the type of litter or the position, style or set-up of the boxes. Loose soil, soft compost and sand are comfortable underfoot, while wood pellet litter can be painful to stand or squat on, particularly for elderly cats or kitties suffering from osteoarthritis. Most cats prefer a soft, fine-textured, unscented clumping litter.

4. They’re anxious or unwell

If your kitty suddenly starts pooping in the yard when they usually use an indoor litter box it may be a sign of anxiety in cats or that they're unwell.

Stressors, such as the arrival of a new cat or dog, the presence of unfamiliar visitors, or construction noise can cause anxiety and make a cat feel too insecure to use their litter box.

If your feline friend is experiencing pain due to illness, for example, constipation, they may associate this with their litter box and avoid it, seeking an alternative place to toilet.

Can cat feces contaminate a garden?

Like all feces, cat poop can act as a fertilizer for plants. However, excess nutrients can be harmful and may threaten native species which have adapted to particular soil conditions.

Cats can shed gastrointestinal parasites in their feces, including roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, whipworms, heartworms, and single-celled organisms including Giardia and Toxoplasma gondii. Other cats, dogs, and wildlife are at risk of contracting these parasites if they come into contact with infected cat poop or contaminated soil, food or water.

Humans can also be infected, experiencing health problems from minor discomfort to serious illness, with pregnant women, babies, young children and immunocompromised people at particular risk. So, it’s important to wear gloves when gardening, cover children’s sandboxes, and always wash your hands after working or playing in the yard.

Cat feces can also enter the waterways through runoff from rainfall, driving algal blooms and threatening marine wildlife. Toxoplasma gondii is an infection caused by a parasite found in cats' intestinal tracts. A study published in the Acta Parasitologica journal revealed that it's been shown to affect sea otters, seals, sea lions, whales, dolphins, and porpoises, causing severe illness and increased susceptibility to other diseases, often resulting in death.

How long does cat poop take to decompose in soil?

Cat poop typically takes between three and six months to decompose in the soil but can linger for up to a year, depending on environmental conditions including temperature, moisture, and microbial activity.

So, it’s essential to promptly clean up and safely dispose of feces to maintain a healthy and pleasant environment for humans, cats and other animals. Bag it, seal it, and put it in the trash, use a professional pet waste disposal service, or compost it in a dedicated composting system sited well away from edible plants.

Is your kitty nibbling your favorite flowers or chewing your houseplant leaves to sheds? We reveal how to stop a cat from eating plants. When it comes to your furry friend’s feces do you know what’s normal? We reveal what to look out for when you scoop cat poop.

If you want to learn how to keep a rabbit cool in summer, then you've come to the right place. As the weather gets warmer and your bunny ventures outdoors more, it's important that you know how to keep them safe in the sun.

Summer is a great time for our rabbits, giving them more time to play in the garden. However, if they get too hot then it can increase their chances of heat stroke which can be fatal. There are lots of ways that you can help prevent this, like putting one of the best indoor rabbit hutches in a cool area of your home or splashing cold water behind their ears.

Since our bunnies can't talk to us, sometimes it can be a little tricky to work out whether they're too hot or not. However, there are lots of signs to look out for which vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan has explained below. She's also given her expert advice on ways to keep a rabbit cool, what temperature is too warm, and whether they can have ice cubes.

Here's a complete summer survival guide:

How do I keep a rabbit cool in the summer?

Here are some ways that you can keep your rabbit cool in the summer, recommended by Dr. MacMillan.

1. Keep their hutch/run in the shade: If your rabbit goes outside, find a shady spot in the garden for their hutch or run and make sure you never leave it in direct sunlight.

2. Keep them somewhere cool: When your bunny is indoors, make sure you move them to a cool area of your home. You'll want to avoid areas like conservatories or sunrooms which heat up very quickly. You might also want to close the curtains or put a fan on to help them stay cool.

3. Give them something cool to lay against: Provide your rabbit with a large, cold bottle of water that they can lie on when they get too hot. A floor tile or ceramic/slate tile also works well and usually stays cold if it's left in the shade (top tip: put it in the fridge beforehand!) If you don't have any tiles lying about the house, a damp towel will do the same job.

4. Keep them well-groomed: It's always important to ensure your bunny is well-groomed as part of their regular rabbit care, but it's even more crucial in the summertime. By removing their loose fur, you'll help them to feel a lot cooler (and happier!)

Dr. MacMillan says: "You should also be checking your rabbit’s bottom at least once daily during the summer months. Ensuring that it is clean and dry will reduce the risk of flystrike. Flies are attracted to smelly, damp, or warm areas, where they will lay their eggs. If left unchecked these eggs can hatch within a matter of hours into maggots, which will start burying into your rabbit’s flesh. This is why checking on your rabbit regularly is so important."

5. Apply cool water to their ears: Did you know that rabbits don't sweat like we do? By applying cold water to their ears, you'll help them to cool down and lose heat through evaporation.

What temperature is too hot for rabbits?

You might be wondering what temperature is too hot for your rabbit. After all, it can be very subjective for us humans.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Temperatures above 25C (77 F) are too hot for rabbits. They will start to struggle at these sorts of high temperatures, and you should take steps to keep your rabbit safe and comfortable."

How do I tell if a rabbit is too hot?

If you think your bunny is too hot, Dr. MacMillan says they might...

• Seek out a shady spot
• Seek out a cooling breeze
• Stretch against cool surfaces
• Drink more water than usual (make sure this is topped up regularly)
• Breathe more rapidly than usual
• Notably pant
• Have ears that feel warm or hot when you touch them

Can rabbits have ice cubes?

There's nothing better than cooling ice cubes on a hot sunny day, so you might be curious whether our rabbits can have them too. We asked Dr. MacMillan and the answer is yes — and there a couple of ways that you can give them to your bunny.

Whether you add them to their water bowl/bottle or freeze pieces of vegetables, it's a great way to cool them down. If your rabbit isn't interested in normal ice cubes, the latter idea could encourage them more. Dr. MacMillan says to steer clear of artificially flavored or sweetened ice which isn't healthy for your bunny.

Can rabbits get heat stroke?

Unfortunately, rabbits can get heat stroke if they are exposed to hot temperatures. This can be really dangerous and even lead to death, so it's super important to know to signs so you can help immediately.

Dr. MacMillan says that if your bunny has heatstroke, they might:

• Feel weak
• Pant
• Drool
• Have hot or red ears
• Collapse
• Have a seizure

She says: "If you suspect that your rabbit is suffering from heatstroke, then this is an emergency situation. I always advise owners to lay their rabbits on a cool, damp towel and to gently apply water to their ears. You should also try and create a breeze for them (perhaps with a handheld fan) and get them to your vet as soon as possible."

Are rabbits herbivores? A vet reveals the answer in this helpful diet guide. Plus, here's how to get rid of fleas on rabbits if you suspect your bunny might be infested with pesky parasites.

If you want to learn how to keep your dog entertained while you're at work, you've come to the right place. Whilst we'd love to spend 100% of our time with our dog, that's not always possible.

Keeping your dog entertained is not only good for your dog, but also for your peace of mind as a pet parent. However, it’s important to note that the ideal state for your dog during your absence is to be relaxed - resting or asleep - as this shows that they are not stressed or bored. We also need to be make sure that we’re not relying on our dog feeling comfortable solo for extended periods of time.

As a certified canine behaviorist, I feel that being able to remotely watch your dog can be useful to ensure that they’re feeling confident and relaxed when you’re not there. I ask all my clients to film their dogs during periods of absence - so it’s worth investing in one of the best pet camera models to watch your dog when you’re out at work.

If you’re looking for some inspiration on how to keep your dog entertained while at work, read on!

How to keep your dog entertained while at work

First off, it’s important to note that many dogs enjoy routine. Being able to predict what’s happening each day can give them a sense of security. Ensuring that all their physical needs have been met - a calm walk, time to toilet, being fed - is important before they’re left alone.

Giving them a mental workout can also allow them to better relax when you’re not there - a few minutes of training or some scent work is ideal. 

But when you leave them alone, you might be wondering do dogs get bored - and what can you do about that? 

Interactive toys

Puzzle feeders, lickimats, or the best snuffle mats for dogs can keep them mentally stimulated and help tire them out before they settle down. Ensure that your dog has had their usual meal before providing food-filled toys, so that they’re not frustrated if the food isn’t coming quickly enough.

Make sure that any food toys are safe for them to be left with - although usually, most fillable food toys are more safe than a long-lasting chew would be in terms of choking risk.

Rotate toys

Whether it’s their interactive toys, favorite balls or tuggy toys, rotating them each day can keep them interested and engaged in solo playtime. 

Scent work

You can provide a sensory experience for your dog to explore, allowing them to create some feel-good hormones to help them relax and settle down for a snooze. Utilizing scent can be as simple as leaving a piece of your clothing in their bed to provide comfort, to hiding treats in safe places around your home for them to sniff out.

Build up alone time slowly

Training your dog to be comfortable alone is vital. Gradually increasing the time they spend alone can help them adjust to your absence without stress. If your dog is particularly anxious, consulting an ethical dog behaviorist will be useful to help your dog feel more confident when you’re not there. 

Choice of sleeping spots

As dogs are polyphasic sleepers - meaning they enjoy their rest during multiple sessions throughout the day - they often move around to sleep in different areas. Giving a choice of sleeping spots - be that different heights or textures of beds, the sofa, or various areas of your home - can allow them to be more comfortable when they settle down to rest. You might have a dog who likes to follow the sunspots around your home or likes to be close to the radiator during winter, so set up sleep zones to suit their needs. 

Music or white noise

Playing calming music or white noise can create a peaceful environment that encourages relaxation and sleep. There are even some specific playlists designed for dogs - including ones where people read stories for your dog. 

Professional pet care

Hiring a pet professional to visit your dog or take them out on either a solo or group dog walk can add a welcome bit of companionship to your dog’s day. It also allows them a chance to toilet and get some more mental or physical stimulation during your absence.

Some pet parents prefer to use a doggy daycare environment to ensure their dog is never left alone, but this can be quite a lot of stimulation for some dogs - especially young puppies, who need a lot of sleep, or anxious dogs. 

Ultimately, a well-exercised, mentally stimulated dog with a comfortable, calm environment will be more likely to rest and sleep while you're at work, ensuring their happiness and health.

Should I leave the TV on for my dog when I go to work?

Some pet parents report that their dogs find comfort in the TV being left on when they’re on their own. However, in my behavior work, I find that for dogs who need some sort of auditory stimulation, a constant playlist or white noise can be more effective. 

Playing continuous music or white noise creates a constant buffer between the quiet of your home and any external noises. They are also consistent in sound - there’s no silences, no laughter, no change in pace of music, and, most importantly, no ad breaks!

TV shows and advert breaks often feature sound effects of door bells, dogs barking, or even loud bangs. These can be enough to set your dog off barking - so constant sound is definitely a winner over TV. 

Do dogs prefer silence or music?

There have been various studies conducted around the effect of music on dogs - findings have ranged from it creating more optimism in dogs, helping them to sleep for longer periods, or encouraging a calmer mood state. Findings have also favored classical music, soft rock, or reggae! So, it can be a fun trial to see which genre of music your dog prefers!

If your dog is responsive to noises outside of your home and finds it hard to settle when they hear external sounds, then playing a continuous playlist or using white noise can be beneficial in encouraging them to get better rest.

If your dog prefers to be left alone within a crate, check out our best dog crates guide to find the best one for them. Got a more anxious dog? We’ve put together a list of the best calming treats for dogs.

Are you one of the many pet parents that worry about your dog being stolen? As a certified canine behaviorist, I know the bond between humans and their dogs is stronger than ever - and the thought of someone taking your companion away from you is a heart-wrenching prospect. 

With an increase in sought-after breeds, hiked prices for puppies, and the knowledge of just how important canine members of our family now are - sadly, dogs face increasing risks of being stolen. And as dog theft becomes an increasingly prevalent concern, it's really important that we know what proactive measures we can take to safeguard our pets (such as using one of the best pet trackers)

Here's how you can prevent your dog from falling victim to theft, ensuring both their safety and your peace of mind:

9 ways to prevent your dog being stolen

They say “prevention is better than cure” and this is especially true when it comes to safeguarding your dog from being stolen. Some simple preventative measures can be put into place to make your dog harder for would-be thieves to access or easier to find should the unthinkable happen. 

1. Microchip your dog: Microchipping your dog is a legal obligation in some US states and countries around the world. Whether it’s a legal requirement or not, it’s highly advantageous to get your dog microchipped, ensuring that you also keep your microchip contact information up to date. This simple act can help in recovering your dog if it's stolen and found - and prove your ownership of the dog should it be contested.
2. Use a GPS tracker: Invest in a GPS tracking collar or tag for your dog. This tool allows you to monitor your dog's location in real-time and quickly track them if they go missing. Make sure that you’ve checked out what areas your tracker covers - some work internationally - and if there are any limitations, such as access to the internet, for them to work.

3. Secure your yard and home: Make sure your yard is secure with strong, high fencing and locks on your gates. Regularly check the perimeter of your yard for any gaps in fencing or holes your dog - or another animal - may have dug. If your dog is securely on your property they’re less likely to be found by someone else. Keep your front and back doors locked - and avoid leaving ground floor windows wide open.
4. Supervise outdoor time: It might sound simple, but by keeping an active watch over your dog’s outside time, you’re increasing your chances of deterring any potential theft. Don't leave your dog unattended in your yard, even if it's fenced, as thieves can easily snatch them.

5. Avoid leaving dogs in cars: Temperature concerns aside, leaving your dog in a car also makes them an easy target for thieves. Never leave your dog alone in a car, even for a short period.
6. Protect your personal information: Be mindful of what you share about your dog on social media. Avoid posting details about their daily routine or specific locations you frequent, especially if you have a ‘desirable breed’ or your social accounts aren’t restricted to just known friends and family. Most local laws don’t stipulate that you need to name your dog on their collar - and it’s best to avoid letting a potential dog thief know what your dog’s name is, so that they can’t appear to know your dog.
7. Invest in security cameras: While cameras inside your home are great for monitoring your dog’s emotional wellbeing when they’re left home alone - external cameras can help you keep an eye on any potential intruders. There are plenty of options for you to choose from for the best outdoor wireless cameras for pets, so see what is going to work best for your property.

8. Keep your dog safe both on and off-the leash: Ensure that your dog’s harness and leash are in good condition - with no fraying that could lead to breaks and your dog disappearing on you. Keep up with you recall training to ensure your dog doesn’t go roaming out of sight, setting them up for being found by someone undesirable.
9. Build a local network: Get to know your neighbors and build a network with other pet parents in your area. They can help keep an eye out for your dog and report any suspicious activity in the neighborhood.

By taking these precautions, you can significantly reduce the risk of your beloved dog being stolen.

What do you do if someone steals your dog?

If the worst happens and your dog is taken from you, the most important thing to do is to try and stay calm so that you can act quickly and efficiently. Take deep breaths and try to stay as calm as possible. 

1. Start by conducting a thorough search of the surrounding area to ensure your dog hasn’t just gone walk-about.

2. Call your dog’s name and check any potential hiding spots or spaces they may have got trapped in.

3. Call someone to come down and help you. Have one person in the original location you last saw your dog and one - or hopefully more - searching.

4. Make sure you create a timeline of events - noting down the time and place where your dog was last seen. Ask around your neighborhood and identify potential witnesses  - asking if they saw anything unusual or suspicious.

5. As soon as possible, report your dog as missing to local animal control, shelters, rescues and vet centers. Provide them with detailed information including a recent photo of your dog.

6. If your dog is microchipped, notify your microchip company as soon as you can. If you’ve forgotten to update any contact information, do so when you speak to them.

7. Contact your local police department to file a theft report. Provide them with all relevant information you’ve gathered including a clear description of your dog and their last known location. If you have any footage from cameras which might feature suspected individuals or vehicles, download this and pass it over to the authorities as soon as possible.

8. As well as contacting your neighbors for support, reach out to your wider local community. Post on local dog owner social media groups and contact a range of pet professionals in your area who might have their own community to contact on your behalf. Make sure you include clear photos, a description, and contact information. There are also a number of online lost pet databases that you can register your dog on.

9. Create a poster with a clear photo of your dog, a detailed description, and your contact details. If possible, you can even offer a reward to try and encourage people to come forward. Ask friends and family to help you distribute these posters in local dog-walking areas such as parks, as well as in your local vets, groomers, and pet stores.

How to increase your chances of finding a stolen dog

To increase your chances of recovering a stolen dog, proactive preparation is crucial.

Have important information easily accessible

Be prepared with a list of local vets, your dog warden, and any other useful contacts pinned to your fridge! Make sure you have your dog’s microchip number saved somewhere easy to find. Write down a list of contacts - such as local friends, family, dog walkers, or rescue centers - who might be useful to reach out to for help should the worst happen.

Take regular photos of your dog from different angles

Although as pet parents who adore our dogs, we usually have a phone filled with pictures of our dogs - make sure you’re keeping these up-to-date. Take pictures from every angle of your dog, to make sure all markings can be seen. If your dog has any unique features, make sure these are also documented. These images will be useful to both identify your dog as your own, but also for any posters or social media posts you share.

Make sure your dog is identifiable

As well as microchipping your dog, make sure their collar has your up-to-date information. If you move home, make sure your insurance company and microchip database are updated with your current address and contact information. While many local laws don’t state the need for your contact number on your dog’s ID tag, it can help to put it on there to get reconnected to your dog quickly once they’re found.

GPS Tracker

GPS devices can provide real-time location data, significantly increasing the chances of quick recovery if your dog is stolen. 

If you’re wondering what to do if you find a lost dog, we’ve got you covered. And if you want more tips on how to find a lost dog read our guide.

As a certified canine behaviorist, one of the top questions I get asked is, ‘How do I stop my dog running off?’ For most pet parents, our dream is to enjoy relaxed and fun off-leash walks with our dogs. But for so many of us, dog walks can easily become something stressful that you either hate doing or try to avoid.

While the best pet trackers can help you locate your dog should they escape or run-off, they don’t improve your dog’s training skills or the level of connection you have with your canine companion in the outside world.

There’s so many reasons why your dog might find it hard to pay attention to you when off the leash - from age, lack of training, the distractions in the environment, breed traits, and - most importantly - the relationship between your dog and you. Let’s dive into some of these challenges and how you can help to get your off-leash walks back on track!

How do I stop my dog running off?

If your dog is likely to run off when you let them off the leash -  or perhaps you’re worried they might escape when your front door is open - then it’s important to address these concerns soon. A combination of some simple management alongside training for the future, will guarantee you can keep your dog safe.

1. Use a long training line

A long-line is a great tool to allow your dog some element of freedom while keeping them attached to you. A biothane line (like this one on Amazon) is a great option that won’t get wet or heavy if it rains. This line is effectively a longer version of your usual leash, that allows your dog five to 20 yards to move around without being able to run off. This isn’t necessarily a tool you’ll use for life - but a short term safety measure while you put some training into practice. 

2. Home rules

Make sure all family members know to keep front doors or gates into your yard securely fastened when your dog is roaming. You can also get safety barriers - such as Dog G8 - to allow your doors to stay open and your dog safely trapped behind.

3. Start simple with training

A simple game of just saying your dog’s name and tossing a treat for them to sniff out on the floor is a great way to start building up a bit of connection with your dog. Training doesn’t have to be complicated! 

4. Do you need a new recall cue? 

If you’ve been using a cue - for example ‘here’ - with your dog for some time and they’re ignoring it, then it might be time to start from scratch. Combine a brand new cue - perhaps ‘come on’ - along with the best dog treats to build up a new history of it being rewarding to come back to you. 

When using this new cue, make sure you start at home first - where your dog can concentrate - and make it super fun to run around after you, getting lots of treats or playtime, every time they hear the new cue. 

5. Choose your environment

If you’ve got a dog who finds the world quite overwhelming, taking them off leash in a noisy city park could end up in them running off if they hear a loud noise. 

If you’ve got a dog who just LOVES other dogs and can’t focus on you when their friends are around, then don’t start your recall training in the middle of a dog park. It’s important to match the environment to your dog’s personality style and how well you think they’ll be able to focus. 

6. Avoid punishment

If your dog is running off already, shouting at them or punishing them in another way when they return will only further tarnish your connection. The negative impact of aversive methods in dog training have been shown to increase stress behaviors and make a dog less optimistic about life.

7. Be rewarding

When teaching your dog their new recall cue or just building up on your outside connection with your dog, be rewarding. Think about what your dog loves most. Is it a favored piece of food - maybe some cooked turkey? - or playing with you and their favorite toy? 

Do they love to be stroked or actually, is touch a little uncomfortable for them? Focus on making the moment they return to you, when off the leash, the most fun part of their day and you’ll have a dog who doesn’t want to disappear on you!

Why does my dog run off?

Understanding why your dog has run off in the past is the key to improving your recall and ensuring walks aren’t stressful in the future. Let’s look into some of the reasons why your dog may not want to stay by your side.

1. They haven’t been taught a reliable recall

If your dog doesn’t understand that it’s rewarding to come back to you when asked, then the freedom that off leash time provides might prove too distracting and the minute they’re let off - they’re going to have their own kind of fun.

2. They haven’t been taught a reliable recall

If your dog doesn’t understand that it’s rewarding to come back to you when asked, then the freedom that off leash time provides might prove too distracting and the minute they’re let off - they’re going to have their own kind of fun.

3. The environment is wrong for them

The environment you’re walking in might be too distracting, exciting, or worrying for your dog. Stressed dogs can’t learn and will find it hard to engage in any rewarding activities you might provide for successful recall. 

4. They’re bored

If you’re wondering,  ‘do dogs get bored?’ then look at whether or not you’re being engaging with your dog when out on walks. Do you see your dog walk as something on the to-do list - a chore that needs completing? Are you emotionally present with your dog or are you busy on your phone checking your emails?

Connecting with your dog throughout your walk, not just when you want them to come back to you, is very important when wanting to have a good recall.

5. They’ve been punished in the past

If you’ve told your dog off for running off in the past or when they’ve been busy playing with pals when you wanted to go home, then they might start to avoid the leash being put back on.

6. Breed traits

Look at what your dog was bred to do - are they a hunter or a retriever? Did they get bred to chase small animals or follow a scent? What they were bred for is often a big clue as to what will be the distraction they can’t possibly ignore.

7. Age

Throughout our dogs' lives, they go through many stages of development. A puppy might be going through fear phases or just not understand what recall is all about. 

An adolescent might be going through a hormonal surge or a secondary fear phase. A young adult dog might have just discovered what it’s breed desires are. 

A senior dog might be losing their hearing or sight - or perhaps you’ve just slacked on rewarding recall as they’ve got older.

8. Breed traits

Look at what your dog was bred to do - are they a hunter or a retriever? Did they get bred to chase small animals or follow a scent? What they were bred for is often a big clue as to what will be the distraction they can’t possibly ignore.

What to do if your dog has run off

If you’ve just let your dog off-leash and they run off a short distance from you, then try to avoid your natural instinct to run straight after them. This can end up with a dog either feeling it’s under pressure or that, in fact, this is now just a fun game of chase. 

The best thing you can do is to remain calm, try calling them to you and if that fails, make some other attention grabbing noises like clicking your tongue or making a ‘kissy’ noise. Change how your body looks - get low and open your arms wide or even try running in the opposite direction away from your dog. 

If they’re still not responding, panic might start to kick in - so remember to breathe as calmly as possible. Throw treats or their favorite toy towards them but not to exactly where they are - you’re trying to encourage forward movement towards you. Look down at the ground in front of you and exclaim excitedly “what have I got” and start placing treats one by one on that spot.  

If you can see other people around and you know your dog is likely to make a bee-line for other people or dogs, call out and request help in rounding up your dog.

If you’re worried you might have lost your dog, call someone to come and stay where your dog was last seen. Round up local friends or family members to come and search with you - avoiding scaring the dog who has gone missing. 

You should also:

• Set up food stations to entice your dog towards you
• Share your location and direction the dog disappeared in on local dog parent Facebook groups
• Call the local vets and dog warden to inform them
• Check if there are missing dog volunteers in your area who could help you search
• Remember not to panic, most dogs return back to the area they last saw you pretty quickly.  

If you’re finding off-leash walks stressful, read three reasons why your dogs recall isn’t reliable for more insight. And if you’re interested in understanding high prey drive in dogs we have some top ways to manage it.

If you want to play hide and seek with your dog, you've come to the right place. We're going to teach you how to do it in just eight simple steps. 

Hide and seek is a fabulous game for building a bond with your furry friend. It's a fun game that stimulates your dog's mind, engages their problem-solving skills and tires them out mentally and physically. 

As a qualified dog behaviorist, I advocate playing hide and seek with your dog because it teaches them to watch where you are. When training a dog, one of the most challenging aspects is to make an owner more interesting than deer, pheasants, lovely doggy smells and animal droppings. That's no mean feat, as I'm sure you're aware.

Sometimes, the best dog toys and best puppy toys can help our dogs engage with us, and we can use these toys to add extra fun to the hide and seek game.

How to play hide and seek with your dog

Ideally, choose a person who your dog knows and likes. Ask them to hold your furry friend while you find a hiding place. A big part of the game is to get your dog excited about finding you. Your assistant can gee up your dog so they cannot wait to run around looking for you. 

Step 1: The perfect location: The perfect place to start is in the garden or another distraction-free, secure area. The initial objective is to make the exercise easy for your dog so he gets a win the first time. 

Step 2: It can help if you have some yummy treats: Let your dog sniff the best dog treats in your hand so they have a strong scent to follow and know there is a treat to look forward to. If your fluffy pal has a favorite toy, that can also be a great motivator. 

Step 3: Ask your dog to calmly sit and stay: With your assistant holding them on the best dog leash, let your pup see where you hide. Use an excited voice so they know it is fun. Some dogs struggle with a stay command, so this is an excellent training exercise.

Step 4: Use a command: Use a simple command like "Find me". After hiding, shout out "Find me". As your dog watches you hide, they can easily track you. 

Step 5: Praise excitedly and reward your dog: That may be a treat or playing with their favorite toy, whatever they love the best. 

Step 6: Gradually make it harder: For the first few times, let your dog see where you hide. After that, increase the distance and ask your assistant to turn the dog away so they cannot see where you hide. Your doggo must use their nose to locate your hiding place. 

If your dog gets it wrong or becomes distracted or anxious, ignore that behavior. It should be fun for them, and they will get it with practice. 

Step 7: Involve your assistant: Once your dog finds you repeatedly, ask your assistant to say "find" excitedly before letting the dog loose. 

Step 8: Get your dog to find someone else: Ask someone your dog knows to hide instead of you, armed with treats or the best durable dog toys. You may have to start from step three, allowing your dog to see the person hiding. 

Give your dog the command "find" and encourage your helper to call the dog and excitedly reward when your dog succeeds. 

Gradually, make the exercise more challenging until your furry friend is a pro search dog. In time, you can hide any item in the garden. Let your dog sniff the item. After that, hide it somewhere without your dog seeing where you put it. Initially, strong-smelling food treats like chopped liver make it easier for your dog. 

 You could also try these eight fun games to play with dogs. 

Should you play hide and seek with a dog?

There are many benefits to playing the game of hide and seek with your dog. It's a fabulous mental and physical exercise for all dogs but brilliant for excitable dogs with a low attention span. 

Many dog owners don't realize that mental stimulation can be as effective as a walk. If that idea fascinates you, read our feature on mental stimulation for dogs. 

If the weather is poor, and you don't want to walk your dog, hide and seek is a perfect exercise to tire your dog because it takes problem-solving skills for your furry friend to find you or whatever you've hidden.

Another significant bonus is it teaches your dog to watch you. I train all of my dogs to find me. When they're young, dogs get easily distracted and can lose track of where they are on a walk if they see a squirrel, rabbit or other furry. 

I often hide behind trees and call them. It encourages the dogs not to run so far ahead and to keep an eye on me because I might suddenly disappear. 

How to play hide and seek with your dog in small spaces

If you don't have a garden or live in a small apartment, don't worry. You can still play hide and seek with your dog. It just takes a bit more imagination. You can place treats or toys in cardboard boxes or hide in a cupboard or behind the bed. 

Alternatively, buy a long line and take the exercise outdoors to a quiet place. It's best to fit a dog harness instead of attaching the line to your dog's collar, as in his excitement, he could race to the end of the line and hurt his neck. 

If you've enjoyed this article and want to discover more fun things to do with your dog, you can try these brain games for dogs. To the most of your playtime, you could create an exciting dog play area. Your pooch might also enjoy a doggy play date.

Can cats play fetch? It’s one of the most popular games to play with a dog, but far fewer felines chase and retrieve objects thrown by their pet parents. 

Unlike dogs, cats haven’t evolved to cooperate with humans or been bred specifically for their retrieving ability. However, you might be surprised at their potential for playing fetch. But do they enjoy it and what are the benefits? Read on to discover why playing fetch can be fun and rewarding for both of you.    

If you’ve ever praised and petted your feline friend when they’ve brought you a toy, you’ve inadvertently reinforced this behavior, making it more likely to happen again. 

We reveal how to use positive reinforcement training, the best cat toys and the best interactive cat toys to unlock the fetching potential of your purring playmate. 

Can cats play fetch?

Can cats play fetch? While it’s not a common behavior, a study published in the Scientific Reports journal reveals that more cats engage in this game than you might imagine. 

Are cats playful in the same way as dogs? Researchers discovered that cats prefer to play fetch on their terms, initiating play with their guardians and deciding when to end the game. Perhaps unsurprising, given their independent nature.

Incredibly, 94% of the pet parents surveyed reported that their cats began playing fetch without any training or prompting. But don’t despair if your kitty doesn’t fetch, as it is possible to train this behavior.

 As solitary hunters, cats instinctively chase after rodents, birds, reptiles, and insects, and pick up captured prey with their mouths, often bringing their catches home to their human companions. 

The initial stages of a game of fetch mimic this innate predatory behavior, so cats may be motivated to play due to their predatory instincts. Has your kitty ever dropped one of their favorite toys at your feet? The only remaining component of the fetching behavior is for you to toss it and encourage them to bring it back.

Both mixed and purebred breeds will retrieve objects with siamese, Burmese, savannah, and maine coon cats often reported to be particularly enthusiastic fetchers.

Social play is most common in young animals and researchers found that cats that played fetch were more likely to start when they were under a year old.

Whether or not your feline friend enjoys playing fetch will also depend on their personality and preferences. Not all cats are naturally inclined to play fetch, but many can be trained to enjoy participating in this activity with their human companions.

Do cats like to play fetch?

Some cats find chasing and retrieving objects extremely rewarding, whilst others show little interest, preferring other forms of interactive play. Researchers found that many cats were only interested in fetching one specific toy or type of household object, or that they would only retrieve items for a certain person or at a particular time of day. 

For some cats, the thrill of the chase will be more rewarding than the act of retrieving and returning a toy to you. The most important thing to remember is that cats like to feel that they’re in control, so be receptive to your kitty's needs and preferences.

Like all forms of cat play, playing fetch has a host of benefits for your feline friend. Fetch stimulates a cat’s natural hunting instincts, providing them with an opportunity to engage in the stalk, chase, pounce, and bite stages of the predatory sequence. 

Learning to fetch requires them to focus, track and retrieve an object, which can help to keep their mind active and prevent boredom. It’s also an excellent way to encourage your kitty to get more exercise.

Running after and pouncing on a toy will help your feline friend maintain a healthy weight, preventing obesity and promoting overall health.

Fetch is a particularly good physical activity for indoor cats, allowing them to release pent-up energy in a positive way and helping to stop cat play aggression and other undesirable behaviors.

Engaging in fetching games can boost your kitty’s mood, reduce stress, and improve their overall wellbeing. Like all interactive play, playing fetch is an opportunity for your cat to bond with you, strengthening your relationship through positive interaction and shared fun.

How to teach a cat to play fetch

So, can you train a cat to play fetch? Our feline companions are very intelligent and most are capable of learning to retrieve objects. However, ‘fetch’ is a behavior chain, a sequence of behaviors that need to happen in a specific order - chase the object, pick it up, carry it back to the thrower and drop it. 

Because this is quite complex, it’s best to break it down, teaching each step separately. Once your kitty can perform the individual behaviors, you can link them together so one action cues the next.

Using reward-based positive reinforcement training is the best way to motivate your furry friend to learn to play fetch. They’re more likely to work for a high-value reward that they love, like the best cat treats or toys.

It’s also important to choose the right object for them to fetch. Start with something your kitty is naturally attracted to and can easily pick up in their mouth, like a crumpled ball of paper or a small, lightweight toy. 

They’re more likely to engage if the toy triggers their predatory instincts. Create positive associations with the chosen toy, encouraging your cat to play with it and praising and rewarding them with a treat when they show any interest.

Set up the environment for success. Training takes concentration, so choose a quiet, familiar room with few distractions. 

1. Introduce the reward
If your cat doesn’t pick up objects, introduce the pick-up by sticking a small treat to their chosen toy. When they touch the toy with their mouth, mark the desired behavior using a clicker or marker word, for example, “yes” and give them a treat. Repeat a few times, then remove the treat from the toy.

2. Mark and reward
Hold the toy in your palm and offer it to your kitty. When they take it in their mouth, click or say “yes” and reward them. After several successful attempts, wait until they drop the toy back in your hand before marking and rewarding. 

3.  Increase the distance
Once your cat is reliably picking up and dropping the toy, start placing it in front of them on the floor. When they pick it up and drop it back in your hand, mark the desired behavior and reward them. Gradually increase the distance between the toy and your hand. 

4.  Call them back to you
Start tossing the toy about a foot away from your cat to encourage them to chase it. Call them back to you as soon as they have the toy in their mouth.

When they’ve successfully retrieved the toy several times, increase the distance you toss it to two feet, then three feet, and so on. Continue marking and rewarding every successful fetch. 

5. Increase the distance
If your kitty fails to fetch the toy at any stage during the training process, go back a step. Lowering the criteria will allow them to maintain a high rate of reinforcement, keeping them engaged and preventing frustration. When they've made a few successful fetches, try increasing the distance again. 

6.  Add a verbal cue
Once your cat can reliably perform the complete fetch behavior sequence, you can add the verbal cue, “fetch”, saying the word just as you toss the toy. It's important to be consistent with your cue, marking and rewards throughout the training process to ensure your cat understands what you want them to do. 

It may take a few weeks or longer to teach your feline friend to play fetch, so be patient. Practice regularly but keep sessions short to prevent them from losing interest and always end on a positive note with lots of praise and a reward. 

Never scold or punish your cat if they fail to fetch or force them to relinquish the toy they’ve retrieved, as this can cause fear, anxiety and distrust, making them less likely to want to play fetch in the future and damaging their bond with you. 

It’s important to have realistic expectations. Not all cats will become proficient fetch players but that’s ok. The most important thing is to have fun together!

Wondering what do cats like to play with? We have the answers. Looking for more inspiration for interactive play with your feline friend? Here are eight great games to play with cats.  If you want to learn How to teach a cat a trick, check out this guide.

Whether you live with a disability, work in a caring role, or are just looking to expand your dog training knowledge, you might be looking into how to train a service dog. 

Service dogs are more than just loyal companions, they can be a lifeline for those who rely upon them for help in one or more aspect of their life. 

When looking at how to train a service dog, we need to consider everything from the best breeds for the job, the importance of appropriate socialization, and, of course, the training of the specific skills the individual needs assistance with. 

Within my role as a canine behaviorist and trainer, I also believe it’s important to consider the well-being of the individual dog. To ensure that, they should also have the opportunity to relax through play or enrichment activities such as long lasting dog chews, alongside their working life.

Introducing a service dog to someone’s life can be a transformative experience. These dogs offer not just companionship but invaluable assistance that can provide an increased level of independence. Want to know how to get started in assistance dog training? Keep on reading.

What is a service dog?

Service animals are defined as “dogs that are individually trained to do work or perform tasks for people with disabilities”, according to the Department of Justice. These dogs are not pets - they are working animals who are trained to perform a specific role to assist someone within their day-to-day life. 

The sort of jobs and tasks that service dogs can be trained for include “guiding people who are blind, alerting people who are deaf, pulling a wheelchair, alerting and protecting a person who is having a seizure, reminding a person with mental illness to take prescribed medications, calming a person with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) during an anxiety attack, or performing other duties", according to the Department of Justice.

Different breeds of dogs will be better equipped to assist in different roles based on their size and ability. The best service dog breeds will be regularly used to support a person with disabilities. 

How do I train a dog to be a service dog?

1. Choose a suitable dog for the job

To be successful when training a service dog, it’s important to have the right dog for the job. Depending on the specific task required, you may be restricted to dogs who are much larger and more powerful - for example, if needing to pull a wheelchair - or you may be able to use any breed at all. Some commonly used breeds include labrador retrievers, German shepherds, and golden retrievers. 

You may be considering whether a dog you already live with could be trained to provide a support role. This really depends on whether they have the right temperament, intelligence, and physical capability for the work required. 

You may also want to look into a scheme that specializes in breeding and raising service dogs such as Canine Companions or NEADS.

2. Find a professional, ethical trainer to support you on your journey

While anyone can train a service dog in the US (you can even train your own!) it can speed up the process, and ensure you have the best success if you hire an accredited trainer to help you through your training journey. 

They will bring with them a range of experience that helps you teach your dog the required skills in the most effective way. They will also ensure that the dog’s welfare is maintained at all times.

3. Be clear on your goals

It’s important to list out all elements of the specific tasks the service dog needs to perform for its handler. Depending on the individual's specific disability this may include mobility assistance, alerting to medical conditions, or daily tasks in the home. Make sure a comprehensive list of all required jobs the dog will need to do is created at the start of your training journey.

4. Start simple

Teaching some basic obedience skills initially can lay a good foundation for any dog on a training journey. It also allows the dog to become familiar with positive reinforcement techniques such as earning rewards for completing requested tasks. 

All training experiences must be positive, without resorting to using any punishment-based methods. Our feature on positive reinforcement for dogs has more guidance on this. 

5. Socialization is vital

If the service dog is expected to carry out any of its tasks outside of the home, it’s important to gradually expose them to all the sights and sounds of the world they may encounter. Once they feel comfortable in all of these situations they will be much more likely to remain calm and focused when working in the future. 

6. Appropriate behavior in public

It’s important to ensure that your service dog can behave appropriately when around members of the public and other animals. Teaching them to only toilet in the correct spaces and be able to settle and relax when in restaurants, stores, or on public transport, will allow them to be good members of the canine community as well as a successful service dog.

7. Get your task-specific training nailed

Build up your training skills with the professional you’ve enlisted for support. Train the dog for the specific tasks required by yourself or the handler, such as retrieving items, opening doors, or alerting to medical issues. Your qualified trainer will be able to guide you through each of these exercises, step-by-step.

8. Complete legal requirements 

While the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) doesn’t specifically require you to register your dog with an organization, check what individual laws are relevant to your locality. If you are adopting a dog through a service dog training organization, they may also have their own requirements, including the successful passing of a Public Access Test.

Remember, training a service dog is a significant commitment that requires ongoing reinforcement and maintenance to ensure the dog performs reliably and safely in their role.

What’s the difference between a service dog and an emotional support dog?

According to the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), “Dogs whose sole function is to provide comfort or emotional support do not qualify as service animals.” Emotional support animals (ESA)  can be of any species - you may see pigs, horses, rabbits, and other animals, alongside the more commonly used dogs. 

The dog breeds used for physical tasks may differ from those used for emotional support. In fact, the best dogs for emotional support can be of literally any (legal) breed - as long as they’re behaviorally sound and toilet-trained. These dogs are classed as ‘pets’, being owned by the individual they live with, in comparison to service dogs being classed as working animals.

Whilst service dogs are trained to do specific tasks related to the individual’s disability, emotional support dogs provide comfort and companionship to individuals with mental health conditions. Whilst they excel at offering emotional support they may lack the extensive training of service dogs.

According to the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, “There are no certification or registration standards for ESAs, and their access to public locations is more limited.“ Although, some State or local governments do actually have laws that allow ESAs to be taken into public places - so it’s worthwhile investigating what your local laws are.

If you feel you may benefit from your own emotional support animal, we have compiled a list of 32 of the best emotional support animal breeds. We’ve also got plenty of practical tips for training your dog on your own.

What dog owner wouldn’t want to learn how to teach a puppy to sit? After all, it’s an excellent command to be able to use in everyday life, plus, teaching a new skill to your dog is a great way to bond with them.

When your new four-legged friend isn’t distracted by some of the best puppy toys, they can cause havoc around the house and you’ll soon learn the value of teaching them to sit when you need them to. Thankfully, it’s one of the easier commands to teach. Canine behaviorist and nutrition consultant for Pooch & Mutt, Dr Emma Scales-Theobald recommends that you, “Keep training sessions short and sweet with lots of encouragement, praise and treats. The more fun and enjoyable the training is, the quicker your puppy will learn.”

Being a dog parent is a bit like being a parent to a child, not all styles of parenting and teaching will work for every canine but there are some tips and tricks to make disciplining them a little bit more fluid. Theobald ran us through the basics of teaching a puppy how to sit, when is best to start teaching this command, and why it’s worthwhile doing. We also spoke to Ryan Neile, who is the head of behavior at the UK national pet charity Blue Cross. Read on to find out what the experts had to say… 

How do you teach a puppy to sit?

1) Find what motivates your puppy most

First off, you need to establish what motivates your puppy. Dr Scales-Theobald says, “The majority of puppies will enjoy treats, but some may be more motivated by a toy or game or just praise.”

Some training accessories might make your dog hyper such as their favorite toy so, in this case, you might want to focus on just using a food reward, like one of the best puppy treats.

“[Try] something to help them focus and enable training sessions to last longer, whilst still being high value to keep them motivated,” notes Dr Scales-Theobald. If using food, she says it’s best to use small treats or break up bigger ones so that you don’t fill up your puppy too quickly and you avoid overfeeding them. If you’re worried, here’s what to do if your dog is overweight.

2) Praise the behavior when it naturally occurs

Naturally, your puppy will want to sit frequently throughout the day. When you notice them do this at a suitable time, make an effort to praise them for the action. “Then,” Dr Scales-Theobald says, “You can start to pair this with the command 'sit’ and a hand signal.”

Now you’re ready to tackle the third and final step which is the teaching part.

3) Guide them into a ‘sit’

• Bring the treat or toy to them, right in front of their nose.
• Raise the treat or toy up in a small arc to be above their head, keeping the treat or toy close to their nose. This should make them want to sit down.
• If your puppy keeps stepping backward with this method rather than sitting, you can try guiding their bottom to the ground or try raising the treat or toy higher up out of their reach.
• As soon as their bottom touches the ground, you can give them the treat or toy and praise them.
• After a few repetitions, you can start to pair this with the ‘sit’ command and a hand signal. For example, as soon as their bottom touches the ground, say ‘sit’ and then give them the treat or toy with praise.
• You can then phase out the need to guide them into this position and bring the verbal command and hand signal earlier in this sequence.

Once you’ve mastered this a few times Neile recommends you practice the sit command in different scenarios where your puppy can be faced with other distractions. “Practice ‘sit’ when greeting people, ask your dog to sit rather than jumping up, or when sitting at curbs before you cross a road.” And of course, always remember to reward them. 

When should you start training a puppy to sit?

Most people bring a new puppy home at around eight-12 weeks old and according to Neile, you can start right away. This is a good time to teach them basic cues like sit, come, and stay.

Dr Scales-Theobald seconds this and said, “It is a very manageable beginner's trick to teach young puppies. It is a great one to start training your puppy with and is often the first command they will learn.”

As she mentioned earlier, the more enjoyable the learning process is, the more successful it will be. “You could incorporate the training into a game or on a walk,” mentions Dr Scales-Theobald, “To make it more fun than a dedicated training session.”

What are the benefits of teaching a puppy to sit?

“A well-trained dog is a happy dog who will be able to be easily involved in your day-to-day life,” says Neile and this really does encapsulate why you should bother teaching your dog basic cues like sit. If your dog is able to sit and remain in one spot when the doorbell goes, when guests enter your house, at a curb while you are waiting on traffic to pass on a busy road, then it will make your home feel a little calmer, keep your pup out of trouble or danger and bring you peace of mind.

Dr Scales-Theobald says that teaching this trick can also really help to build a stronger bond between the two of you. She explains, “This is because practicing this trick helps to develop your relationship and help your puppy to develop trust in you.” Plus, it encourages your puppy to enjoy training and see how fun and rewarding it can be. It will help form a foundation for other tricks and training like ‘lie down’ and teaching them not to jump up. 

If this is your first experience with a new puppy then it’s normal to have lots of questions. Fortunately, we have consulted the experts on many more common questions like how to stop your puppy crying at night and how to train a puppy to walk on a leash. 

If you’re a pup parent, then you might be wondering how to stop a dog from jumping up. Whilst this behavior might seem cute in the early days, it can turn into a real problem as they get older and bigger — especially if you have small children around the house.

Even though your dog means well, this behavior can feel quite frustrating. Thankfully, there are lots of things that you can do to help, like redirecting them to one of the best puppy toys or rewarding them for staying down. You should train them out of this bad habit as soon as possible using positive reinforcement for dogs.

Below, we’ve asked Lara Sorisi, an expert dog trainer, for her advice on how to stop a dog from jumping up. She’s also revealed why they like to do this, and whether it’s even a bad thing. Keep on reading to find out:

4 tips for how to stop a dog jumping up 

As with most behaviors, there can be multiple explanations for why a dog jumps up. Lara Sorisi is an APDT-certified dog trainer and a championship dog trainer. She says, “The main thing that owners need to figure out is why their dog is jumping up. The majority of the time, they simply want your attention. There are actually three types of attention that you could give your dog; eye contact, verbal contact, and physical contact.

“If your dog jumps up at you and you even just look at them, you’re actually giving them the attention they desire right then. Meanwhile, if your dog jumps up at you and you talk to them – even if it’s in a positive or negative way – you’ve still given them attention. And again, even if you push your dog off when they jump up, you’re still giving them that physical contact and attention that they’re looking for – and you’ve reinforced the behavior and made them more likely to do it next time.”

1. Ignore the behavior

When your dog jumps up, do you push them off? Do you exclaim loudly in frustration? Or perhaps you even give in and give your dog a guilty cuddle (don’t worry, we’ve all done it!). If you do these things, you may have been inadvertently rewarding your dog for its behavior. Instead, you want to be as neutral and unexciting as possible. Eventually, your dog will get bored and get down. When they do, make sure to mark and reward for maximum benefit (keeping a bag of treats in your pocket is a good tactic to make sure they’re always on hand!). 

Lara adds, “If you’re in a household, the best thing you can do is ignore your dog completely. Simply turn away – if they continue to jump up, then leave the room. This will be the complete opposite of the dog’s desired effect and you’ve taken away the thing that they want – your attention. If you continue to do this consistently and you don’t give them any eye contact, verbal contact, or physical contact, then the behavior will dissipate quite quickly.”

2. Put a cue on your interactions

Just like humans, every dog is different. While some dogs might immediately pick up the correct behavior that you’re looking for, others might struggle to contain their excitement. Lara advises, “If you’ve got a really bouncy and excitable dog, you’ll need to put a start cue and a finish cue on the behavior. So, every time you interact with the dog, put them into a Sit or a Down. Don’t interact with them until they’re in this position. Then, you can give them attention. When you’re done, give the dog a clear indication that the interaction is over with a ‘Finish’ cue.

“Instead of the dog jumping up every single time, they’ll start automatically going into the Sit or Down position that you’ve instilled. This is called a redirection technique and is a really great proactive way to anticipate what your dog will do and give them an appropriate alternative instead.” 

3. Reward for four paws on the floor

Generally, we want to be telling our dogs ‘yes’, rather than ‘no’. So, rather than getting frustrated with our dogs for jumping up, reward your dog with one of the best dog treats whenever they have all four paws on the floor. It’s worth noting that this is definitely a long-term strategy that won’t have an immediate effect, but over time your dog will start to notice that they’re only rewarded when they’re not jumping up. 

4. Teach other humans too

As many owners already know, it’s often not just a case of training the dog – you need to train the humans that interact with it too. For these techniques to be most effective, you’ll need to ensure that everyone that encounters your dog is consistent. Otherwise, it’ll take much longer for your dog to learn that jumping up isn’t acceptable. 

Lara says, “There’s also an opportunity to do some more redirection training here. I recommend leaving a pot of treats near the front door so that you can teach your dog to go to its bed when someone comes through the door. To train this behavior, every time guests come in and out of the house, they need to grab a treat from the pot and put the dog on its bed, give them the food and then walk in. This means that they’re not actually interacting with the dog, because they’re redirecting them into a settled behavior.”

However, if you find that your guests don’t quite follow your instructions, then you may have to resort to management techniques instead. Lara says, “This is a really difficult scenario, because a guest stroking your dog when it’s jumping up will go against your training and reinforce the jumping-up behavior. The best thing you can do is pop your dog into its harness and lead so that there’s a physical restriction in place.”

Why do dogs jump up? 

No matter why a dog jumps up, there are plenty of great ways to train this habit out of them. We will only be covering positive reinforcement training in this article – and we would advise readers to be wary of any advice that includes aversive tools or methods. While you may initially get what seems to be good results, aversive training can have massively negative effects on your dog in the long run – even if they seem fine at the time.

Lara says, “There will normally be a knock-on effect from aversive training somewhere. If the dog is being punished for jumping up, it could transition into something like reactivity, or anxiety-based and unwanted behaviors. It could really make the situation a lot worse because the dog will be anticipating the punishment. Force can initially provide what looks like instant results, but it will most likely create more long-term problems.

“I recommend looking for trainers and behaviorists that are certified by APDT and other similar organizations, as we work to a code of conduct and only use force-free methods that are backed by science.”

Is it actually bad if dogs jump up?

This training is all very well and good, but what if you don’t mind your dog jumping up? We asked Lara whether it can actually be okay to let your dog jump up in some circumstances.

“Not really. Dogs aren’t able to understand that they can jump up at one person, but not someone else. As a general rule of thumb, you need to be consistent. However, there are times when you will need your dog to put their paws on something or jump up onto something – such as jumping up into the car, putting their feet onto scales, or foot-targeting training. 

“I teach all of my clients the ‘Paws on’ cue, which means that the dog understands how to put their paws on something and that they need permission to put their paws onto something. This also charges up the ‘Off’ cue, so if your dog does put their paws on a counter, a person, a sofa, etc. without your permission, you will have an easier time telling them ‘Off’ if that training has been implemented.” 

Looking for other ways to train your dog? See what happened when we tried a 45-minute 'sniffari'. You might also want to learn how to calm down a hyper dog.

If you’ve recently welcomed a new bundle of fluff into your life, then you’re probably wondering how to stop a puppy chewing. It’s totally normal for your fur friend to gnaw on things at a young age, and there are lots of reasons why they might be doing it, from relieving teething pain to exploring their surroundings.

As innocent as this behavior is, we know how frustrating it can feel — especially if you (or your favorite piece of furniture) are on the receiving end! That’s why things like the best puppy teething toys can come in handy, giving them something safe to dig their teeth into.

Puppy teething won’t last forever, but to help you get through this challenging period, we've shared our top tips to stop them chewing. Dr. Hannah Godfrey has also revealed the age at which they’ll finally stop.

Why do puppies chew?

There are several reasons why your puppy may be chewing on things, some more benign than others. As mentioned above, puppies usually chew while their adult teeth are growing in as a way to alleviate pain. That kind of chewing can usually be abated with the best puppy toys.

If you believe your puppy is chewing for reasons aside from normal teething behavior, you should consult your vet. Here are a few reasons why your puppy might be excessively chewing.

1. Separation Anxiety

According to the ASPCA, dogs may chew to relieve stress from separation anxiety. These dogs will likely only chew when they're alone, or will chew much more intensely alone than when there are humans around. Dogs who are chewing because of separation anxiety will likely show other signs of it, like restlessness, pacing, urinating on the floor, and more.

2. Early weaning

Some puppies and dogs suckle or chew on fabrics, which experts suggest is a behavior resulting from having been weaned too early from their mother (usually before eight week sold). If a puppy is frequently sucking or chewing on fabric and you can't get them to stop, they may be exhibiting a compulsive behavior problem. ASPCA has ways to find professional behavior help that will help alleviate this, as it's something that should be left to the experts.

3. Hunger

Make sure you are feeding your puppy enough to ensure they aren't hungry and chewing on things to satiate that need. Consult your vet for how to feed your puppy an appropriate diet and ensure you buy the best puppy food for your dogs needs.

How to stop a puppy chewing

Here are some ways to stop a puppy chewing:

1. Find the cause

Consult the list above to determine what may be causing your puppy to chew. Is it just a normal teething behavior? A sign of separation anxiety? A side-effect of early weaning? If you're still not sure, reach out to your vet to rule out any health issues.

There are some ways of dealing with separation anxiety in dogs, but you may want to consult a vet and/or a behaviorist.

2. Give puppies cheap chew-safe options you have at home

If your puppy is just doing some normal chewing, there are ways to ensure they're chewing safely. When puppy chewing is at its most intense (usually before they reach six months), there are homemade puppy teething toys you can create from things around the home. Ice cubes and frozen washcloths are great options that will soothe while they chew, and you can redirect from chewing something they shouldn't by handing them an ice cube or washcloth.

3. Give your puppy plenty of bones/chews

Ice and washcloths are great, but you should also invest in bones and the best dog chew toys. You can also use the best longest lasting dog chews, but you should make sure they are puppy-safe before handing them out. Offering them edible things to chew will satisfy the chewing cravings as well as their hunger, but make sure you supervise when they're chewing.

Some chews can break off into smaller pieces that can pose a choking hazard. Be aware of the differences between rawhide vs. beefhide chews and never give animal bones leftover from meals. Look for dog-safe edible and inedible bones at your local pet store, and consider other chews like dog-safe ropes and Kong toys.

You can use toys as a way of taking their attention away from something they shouldn't be chewing. Hand them a toy as they're gnawing away at something they shouldn't, and be prepared to reward them with a treat if they turn their attention to the chewable object.

4. Spray a bitter flavor on chewed items

The trick is to make the items your puppy is chewing unpleasant to them. You can coat furniture or other items with a dog-safe taste deterrent like Bitter Apple to make them not-so-tasty to your pup. Your dog may still persist and chew through the bad taste, so make sure you supervise them the first time you use it. You'll also need to reapply this deterrent in order for it to keep working.

5. Puppy-proof your home

Your puppy will likely still chew something they're not supposed to, so it's important that you puppy-proof (and dog-proof) your home to avoid them chewing anything dangerous or ruining anything that's expensive. We have a brilliant guide on how to puppy proof your home and garden if you want some expert tips.

Part of puppy-proofing your home is simple: take care of your own belongings. Put things away that you would not want in your dog's mouth like shoes, clothes, trash, books, and more. Get a tamper-proof garbage pail and put away items that may intrigue them, or block access to rooms that have objects in them that look especially chewable to your pup.

You might also want to install one of the best pet cameras to keep an eye on them.

6. Be patient 

Puppies chew, it's what they do, so make sure you set realistic expectations and goals. It's very rare to find a dog owner whose dog didn't chew something they weren't supposed to, so try not to get discouraged if there's an incident. Remember, too, that yelling or otherwise punishing your puppy will not work - use positive reinforcement instead.

Well, there you have it. That's how to stop a puppy chewing!

To find out how long puppy teething lasts and learn more teething puppy tips, check out these experts' guide. We’ve also got expert advice on how to stop your dog chewing on the carpet.

If you’ve ever walked down the street and been struck by a stunningly shiny dog coat, you’re probably wondering how you can get your dog’s coat to be so shiny. Is it a breed thing, a food thing, a grooming regime, or straight-out magic? Actually, it’s probably a combination of all of these things! 

This article will detail ways to make your dog’s coat shiny, including tips that go beyond simply grooming your dog. Supplements, foods and even health considerations all factor in keeping your dog's coat healthy; there may be even be some occasions when your dog’s coat might be a hint that they need a vet visit.

What does a shiny coat on a dog mean?

There’s nothing nicer than a shiny coat on a dog and it’s usually taken to be a sign of good health! But is it? What makes a dog coat shine? And does a dull coat mean your dog isn’t healthy?

The lustrous ‘shine’ on hair – including our own – usually comes from skin oils. These coat the hairs and reflect light, making the coat almost appear to glow. A lot of what influences the shiny coat on a dog is making sure they have enough of these oils – but not too many! – and getting the oils to the right place to create the shine.

However, there are times when dog coats are bound to be less shiny. Dogs that are moulting and dogs needing their coat stripped have coats filled with dead hairs – these are naturally less shiny and can lead to a dull coat. White dogs can have very healthy skin and fur without getting much of a visible shine just due to the color of their fur. 

Some types of fur are naturally less shiny – it’s very hard to get a wirehaired dog to shine! Dogs that are prone to rolling in mud or dust often look less shiny because of a layer of dirt. Whilst this is easy enough to remove, some dogs will put it straight back again, making it very difficult to get a good shine!

Some illnesses can also cause a dog coat to be less shiny. Any illness increasing hair loss or affecting the skin can cause a dull coat, so the list is long! The most common medical reasons for a dull coat in dogs are:

• Skin allergies
• Fleas and other parasites
• Obesity
• Arthritis
• IBD and other digestive disorders
• Alopecia (hair loss)

How to improve dog hair growth

If your dog’s hair is sparse, that might explain why they have no shine. Thin hair, brittle and broken hairs, and half-regrown hairs all reduce shine. Getting your dog’s hair to grow back thick and fast can be difficult, but many of the methods for increasing shine will help. For instance, ensuring the skin is parasite-free, and the diet is optimised for skin and coat health will improve your dog’s hair growth.

Ways to make your dog’s coat shiny

So now we know some of the reasons why your dog’s coat is dull, let’s look at how to make your dog’s coat shiny. 

You may need to try several of these home remedies for a shiny coat, and some of them can take a while to work – so don’t give up too soon! 

1. Change diet

To grow a healthy, shiny dog coat, your dog needs the right nutrition. He should be on a complete and balanced diet suitable for his age and breed. He should be eating the right amount of calories for his ideal body weight. He should also be able to digest it properly – even the most expensive, most complicated dog food is no good if it doesn’t agree with your dog and causes flatulence or diarrhea. 

For extra shine, you can reach for diets created for skin and coat health. These usually have salmon and/or salmon oil in. However, it’s more important to get his base diet right and agreeing with him – you can use supplements to add extra nutrients to nourish the coat.

2. Check for obesity

Dogs that are obese are more prone to having dull coats. Whilst they aren’t as fastidious about their grooming regime as cats, dogs do still clean themselves – and obesity prevents this. Obesity also causes inflammation throughout the body, meaning your dog’s skin will be less healthy and he’ll be less able to use the nutrition in his food. Ask your veterinary practice to check your pet’s weight. It’s usually free to have a consultation with a nurse to discuss your pet’s ideal weight and any necessary diet!

3. Add in supplements

Unless you’re feeding a food designed for skin and coat health, you might want to consider adding supplements to your dog’s diet. These supplements ensure your dog has everything he needs to get his skin and coat healthy. 

You need to find skin supplements with Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. Ideally these should come from a fish source rather than a plant source, as there’s some evidence that dogs can better utilize these nutrients from animal sources. However, good skin supplements may also contain Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Zinc, and Biotin.

4. Groom every day and choose the right grooming brush 

Grooming helps to move the skin oils over the hair to create shine. It also removes dirt and dust, which can cause a coat to become dull. For the shiniest coat, your dog needs daily brushing. You’ll also need to choose the right brush for the job – check out our guide to the best dog brushes to help you decide. A soft brush works best for moving oils, but you’ll need to detangle first. And, if your dog is molting or has a thick double coat, you’ll need a de-shedding tool.

5. Bathing at the right frequency for your dog

Bathing too often can strip the oils from the skin, causing irritation and removing shine. Unless your dog has a medical condition requiring frequent bathing, it’s best to keep bathing to a minimum. Depending on your dog’s coat type, this might be weekly, fortnightly, monthly, or less often. Ask your vet or a dog groomer if you aren’t sure.

When you do bathe your dog, you need to find a good shampoo for shine. Ideally, this should be as mild as possible, pH balanced for dog skin, and containing conditioning ingredients such as coconut. 

6. Work on your dog’s mental health

Dogs with anxiety and stress are prone to skin and coat conditions. Some dogs with anxiety will lick often – causing broken hairs, skin infections, and even bald spots. Others will have a lacklustre coat with no shine. If you’ve tried everything else here, the next step is to consider your dog’s mental health. Are they bored? Stressed? Anxious? Talking to a canine behaviourist may help you to get to the bottom of what’s going on.

Conclusion

Hopefully these tips to get a shiny dog coat will give you a show-ready dog coat to be proud of. However, don’t forget that these things take time – changing diet and nutrition for optimal coat condition can take 6-10 weeks to show an effect, and even then you may have to contend with moulting, an obesity plan, and behavioral issues.

If you’re struggling to get your dog’s coat to be shiny, book a check-up with your vet, who may be able to help.

Knowing how to fix a cat scratching post is vital when it comes to keeping your loveable kitty happy… especially if you don’t want them turning to your furniture as they start looking for something else to sink their sharp claws into!

When searching for the best cat scratching posts for your feline, you have to accept the inevitable that after a couple of years (or even a few months depending on how frequently it is used and by how many cute little paws) it will wear down and become less effective. 

A worn down or broken cat scratching post is neither beneficial for your felines to continue using or, quite frankly, nice for you to look at.

When you notice that your cat’s scratching post is in a bit of a state, your first thought may be to throw the whole thing away since it’s broken. After all, why do cats need a scratching post? (We know, that’s a silly question… the answer is obvious!)

Once broken, you might even consider forking out for a brand new one. However, we’re pleased to tell you that that’s not at all necessary. 

With some of the simplest of steps and the most basic of materials, you can easily make your cat scratching post as good as new!

Wrapped with rope

Many of the cat scratching posts that are available on the market these days use rope as the main scratching material. Once this has started to fray and the wooden block underneath starts to appear, you know that it’s time to replace it. 

Firstly, you need to remove the old rope from the post. The best and safest way to do this is with a utility knife but be sure to wear protective gloves that will keep your fingers safe from sharp edges and potential rope burn.

Use the knife to cut a section of the rope – ideally towards one of the post’s ends – so that you can begin unravelling it from the wooden stand. If only the top half of the cat scratching post’s rope has been destroyed, you can stop unravelling halfway down and just replace the top half. 

Of course, if the majority of it has been ravaged beyond repair, then it’ll make more sense to replace the entire thing and make it just like new. 

Once all of the old rope has been removed, you can start wrapping the new rope around the wooden post ensuring that you keep it as tight as possible. Any loose rope will be pulled off by your kitty with very minimal effort. 

Every few rotations or so, add a dab of hot glue to ensure that it is fastened as securely as possible. When you reach the top, cut off any excess rope and stick down the end.

And voila! One rope-wrapped cat scratching post as good as new!

But what if it’s not rope...

Covered in carpet

If your cat’s scratching post doesn’t have rope wrapped around it, then it’s more than likely covered in a piece of carpet instead. You know, the rough, perfect for scratching kind! Over time, it will start to look rather threadbare and lose its appeal, so it’s important to get it replaced sooner rather than later.

Using a utility knife (not forgetting the protective gloves!), try to cut away the carpet in one clean piece. This will come in handy when you have to measure out the new piece of carpet.

Once the carpet has been taken off completely, remove any staples that are still stuck in the wooden post using a flathead screwdriver to loosen them and a pair of pliers to easily grip and pull them out. 

Place the old piece of carpet on top of the new and cut around it, making the new piece as close as possible in size. Wrap the new piece of carpet around your existing wooden post and, using a staple gun, insert a staple along the seam and the top and bottom edges a few inches apart. 

Once the carpet is securely fixed to the post, and there is no visible way for your favorite felines to pull out any of the stables, pop it back in your cat’s favorite spot and watch them enjoy their brand new play thing!

Wondering, 'Why does my cat scratch the walls?' This feature has the answers.

Trying to figure out how to keep cats out of your yard is likely high on your priority list if you already have a kitty of your own and want to avoid fights over territory or you have beautiful flower beds that you’d prefer little paws didn’t dig up!

There’s an ongoing debate about indoor vs outdoor cats and which is the better option for their health and wellbeing. However, regardless of which side of the fence you sit on when it comes to that argument, one thing is clear — cats that have unrestricted access to nature’s big backyard are likely to roam.

Thankfully, there are plenty of things you can do to keep nosy neighborhood felines from visiting your yard, although patience is going to be key. “Keeping unwanted cats out of your garden isn’t easy and can be frustrating, but it’s important not to cause any harm or distress to the cat,” says expert vet Dr. Hannah Godfrey.

With that in mind, we asked Dr. Godfrey to provide her top tips for keeping cats out of your yard and she had some great ideas which we’ve shared below. Also, if you already have a feline friend, we highly recommend investing in one of the best microchip cat flaps as this will ensure they can get back into the house quickly if they feel stressed by four-pawed intruders and that no neighborhood cats can follow them.

Why cats in the yard can be a problem

There are some things you only know if you're a cat owner and then there are other things that are universally know — like the fact that our feline friends tend to love to roam!

If you love cats, you may ask why the need to stop them coming into your garden? Visiting cats and even your own cat can be a real mischief outdoors. For starters, they have a tendency to ruin your lawn and flower beds. Cats not only love to eat grass but these curious critters will walk over, dig up and even eat your plants depending on what you’ve grown.

Plus, if you own your own cat, figuring out how to get cats to get along can be complex and one of the problems of unwelcome visitors is that they may take an instant dislike to your kitty companion. Cats like to mark their territory, which could lead to fighting and your pet getting injured. So if you're looking for ways to be the best cat owner, keeping other cats out of your yard will go a long way in helping to ensure your cat stays happy and healthy.

Another problem with cats marking their territory is that they’re doing their business in your yard (check out our guide to 'what does a cat spraying look like and why do they do it?' for more on what to lookout for). Cat urine is not generally a problem for your soil unless it is a large amount in one area. However, cat feces contains parasites and pathogens that are dangerous to humans, especially if you’re working with your hands in the garden, growing vegetables or have kids playing outside.

Cats are curious animals and they will come into your garden not only to explore, but to hunt and mate. They can be quite a nuisance, jumping and climbing over your garden furniture, knocking over pots and littering your back yard with whatever they choose to bring in with them.

Unfortunately, this often includes animals they’ve killed such as songbirds. Millions of birds are killed a year by garden cats and it’s not something you want in your outdoor haven. Luckily, there are many ways of deterring cats without causing them any harm.

Ways to keep cats out of the yard

So how can you stop cats from coming into your garden? You want to try and make the prospect as unappealing to them as possible, whether that’s making it difficult for them to get in or using items in your garden that they will want to avoid. These are just some of the ways to keep your garden safe from roaming felines.

1. Make surfaces uncomfortable to walk on

If you don’t want cats walking all over and digging up your plants, you’ll want to make surfaces harder or less appealing to walk on. Plant prickly or spiky plants, place shrubs close together or lay chicken wire under mulch to make it more difficult for cats to unbury. You can also lay pine cones, egg shells, pebbles or pieces of wood chippings in the soil or around your bedding to make it less comfortable for their paws. If you keep your flower beds wet, this might help too as cats are not fans of walking on wet ground.

"As long as the material is uncomfortable rather than sharp or dangerous, this could make your garden seem less appealing because cats have sensitive feet and like somewhere comfortable to rest," says Dr. Godfrey.

2. Use scents they don’t like

If you’re already spending time in the garden, why not try planting scents that cats don't like?

"Rosemary, citrus, peppermint, lavender, and thyme are just some of the strong smells that cats don’t like," says Dr. Godfrey. "Keeping plants or citrus peels at points where cats tend to enter the yard will help to deter them. Essential oils are often more effective, but have to be replaced regularly and used sensibly and sparingly to avoid causing skin or airway irritation to the cat."

If you want to try essential oils, mix a few drops of essential oils such as peppermint, eucalyptus or rosemary with a cup of water and spray the area you don’t want the cat to enter as the smell will repel them.

3. Keep your garden tidy and clutter-free

When it comes to tips on how to keep your cat in the yard, a not-so-tidy garden and a bit of mess is actually rather helpful. But it's the opposite if you're wanting to deter kitties from visiting.

Keeping your garden tidy and clutter-free will make your garden less interesting to cats. Don’t leave items lying around that may pique a cat's curiosity, whether that’s your kids’ or your pets’ toys, or loose garden or laundry items like string.

"An untidy yard provides lots of places for cats to hide, hunt, and play, so keeping it as tidy (and therefore boring!) as possible could help to make it less appealing for cats," Dr. Godfrey confirms.

Make sure you don’t leave leftover food out either – and this means food left out for stray cats too. You might think you’re doing a good deed, but if you feed them the best cat food, they’ll definitely be back for more. Plus, you could attract other unwanted animals such as racoons or make the cat sick as they’re not used to the food they’ve been given. Untidy bins and food waste could also attract mice, which again would entice a cat.

4. Build a fence

The easiest way to stop a cat getting in is to build a high, close-boarded fence, but this involves a lot of planning and you’ll need building permission. To keep cats from jumping over, the fence will need to be at least 5.9ft (1.8m) high with an inward facing wire or netting overhang, but it also means ensuring there aren’t any overhanging trees or objects, which the cat can use to get over. Dr. Godfrey says you also need to be mindful of gap sizes.

"If you decide to build a fence or use netting to keep cats out, make sure that the holes or gaps are an appropriate size so that cats can’t get their heads or limbs stuck. Keep it well-maintained so that there are no sharp edges that can cause injury."

5. Install a sprinkler

You may have heard people recommend using a spray bottle or hose and squirting water at unwanted feline visitors to get rid of them. This is not a humane method of deterring cats, however according to Dr. Godfrey, a sprinkler can be a good option.

"Firing water at cats in your garden can cause them stress. But if you have a sprinkler that’s used regularly this is likely to deter cats from coming in just in case."

6. Try using sound

If a cat does manage to get in to the yard and you see them, simply clap your hands together to scare them or shoo them away.

"Long-term noise deterrents that emit sounds that cats don’t like are not a great idea since they cause stress. But one-off noises like clapping (rather than an air horn or similar) could be just enough to get a cat to move on," explains Dr. Godfrey.

7. Create a cat corner

If you’ve tried all of these methods and failed, you could do the opposite. Instead of attempting to deter your neighboring cats, invite them in, but to only one section of your garden. By creating a cat corner with catnip, which they love, and a sandbox as a litter tray, hopefully they’ll stick to the area you’ve set up for them and leave the rest of your garden alone.

What not to use to keep cats out of your yard

We wouldn’t recommend cat repellent products, but if you do choose to use these, make sure they are approved and licensed products and that you follow the instructions carefully.

You should also be careful if making your own deterrents at home. Items such as coffee granules, which can be used as a deterrent, can actually be harmful to cats.

We hope one or more of these methods will help you keep your garden cat-free. If one stops working, try changing tactics as cats are clever so you’ll want to keep them on their paws.

Can you train a cat? You certainly can! Here are our favorite 32 tips for training your cat that will set you and your feline friend up for success.

If you’re considering the use of a harness as an alternative to a leash, it’s important to know how to measure a dog for a harness. Even the best dog harnesses can cause skin injuries and abrasions, not to mention massive discomfort, if they're too tight. Similarly, a harness that’s too loose can jingle around uncomfortably, while also offering the risk that your dog could wriggle free of the harness and escape.

Although achieving the correct fit on a collar is typically relatively easy, because there’s only one adjustment point, harnesses must fit correctly at multiple points on the body, requiring you to purchase the correct harness size and then adjust the harness to your dog’s body carefully.

Benefits of using a harness instead of a collar

For most dogs, harnesses and collars are both equally appropriate options; choosing one over the other is largely a matter of personal preference. However, there are specific benefits to walking your dog with a harness, which may make a harness a better option for some dogs.

First, a harness places less pressure on your dog’s neck and throat than a collar. If your dog has a history of neck or back injuries, such as intervertebral disk disease, your veterinarian may recommend using a harness in order to minimize pressure on the spine. Dogs that suffer from tracheal collapse or other upper airway problems may also do better with a harness than a collar, because a harness minimizes pressure on the throat that can occur when your dog is straining at the end of the leash.

Some harnesses are specifically designed to minimize pulling on a leash — check out our guide to the best dog harness for pulling for a selection of these. While a typical harness does little to control pulling (horses wear a harness to pull a cart!), some harnesses are specifically designed to be no-pull harnesses. These harnesses typically have a leash attachment at the front of the harness, on the front of the dog’s chest. When a dog pulls on a no-pull harness, pressure from the leash will spin the dog around in a circle, so that they are looking at their owner. Most dogs quickly learn that pulling is not giving them the benefits they’re hoping for, thus reducing their habit of pulling against the leash.

While harnesses may not necessarily be a better choice for every dog, they can be a better option if your dog has a history of neck or back disease, or a condition affecting the trachea or upper airways. If your dog pulls excessively on their leash, a traditional harness may be of little benefit but a no-pull harness can be very helpful.

Here's the difference between a front-clip vs back-clip harness.

How tight should a dog harness be?

When you’re using a harness on your dog, it’s important that it be not too tight and not too loose… you want just the right fit. A tight harness can lead to uncomfortable pinching and chafing, while a harness may allow your dog to escape.

To assess the fit of your dog’s harness, slide your fingers under the straps at a variety of different points on the harness. If your dog’s harness fits correctly, you should be able to slide two fingers under any strap on the harness. This is the same guideline that is used when assessing the fit of a collar. If you can’t slide two fingers under the harness straps, the harness is too tight and should be loosened. If you can slide more than two fingers under the straps of the harness, your dog’s harness is too loose. If your dog hates their harness, it could be down to it being ill-fitting and uncomfortable.

How to measure a dog for a traditional or no-pull harness: Step by step

Your dog’s breed and body weight can serve as a helpful guideline when determining which harness size to order, but variation in dog body types means that obtaining precise measurements is a more accurate method of ensuring a good fit. Using a cloth tape measure, measure the broadest (widest) part of your dog’s chest. In most dogs, this is the area right behind the armpits. Measure a few times, because you may obtain different measurements depending on your dog’s posture and positioning. Once you arrive at a consistent and accurate measurement, record this number. Use this measurement, combined with your dog’s weight, to find the best-fitting harness for your dog.

How to fit a dog harness 

Purchasing the correct harness size for your dog is only half the battle. Next, you will need to adjust the harness to your dog. Put the harness on your dog (according to the instructions that came with the harness) and close the clasps. Next, tighten each strap as needed until it fits correctly, meaning you can slide two fingers under each strap.

Once the harness appears to fit correctly, take your dog for a short walk around the block using the harness. After a few minutes of walking, check the fit again and make any necessary adjustments. You may need to adjust your dog’s harness several times to optimize the fit and ensure that the harness is sitting correctly on your dog’s body.

Harness size chart by breed

Every harness is designed to fit slightly different dog dimensions; a dog that wears a size “small” in one brand of harness may require a “medium” in a different brand. However, general size guidelines can still serve as a good starting point for selecting your dog’s harness size. Once you have it narrowed down to two sizes, you can use your dog’s measurements and the brand’s sizing guidelines to determine the best size for your dog.

Again, remember that these are only general guidelines. Each brand will accommodate dogs of slightly different weights and chest circumferences. Still, having a general idea of which size your dog is likely to need can help narrow down the choices when you are shopping for a harness!

If you’re considering the transition from a collar to a harness, it’s important to know how to measure a dog for a harness. Achieving the right fit means purchasing a collar that is sized for your dog’s weight and chest diameter, then carefully adjusting all of the harness straps to ensure that they fit your dog comfortably.

Wondering, 'Are harnesses bad for dogs?' A behaviorist answers in this feature. Or if you want to learn how to put a harness on a puppy, check out this guide. Unsure which harness to choose? Read our Atlas Pet Company Lifetime Harness review.

Wouldn't it be great if you knew how to teach your dog to put toys away instead of having to see those half-chewed ropes and balls lying around the house? Pleasingly, this isn't as hard a training task as you may think. If your dog already knows how to fetch, then getting them to tidy up after themselves is a relatively simple process. And it's a great party piece to show off to your friends!

Of course, learning a sequence of events such as automatically fetching and dropping objects in a specific place can be hard for a dog to grasp straight away. You need to break it down into easy-to-understand tasks and build up slowly from there. It's worth persevering with though as it is a fun training exercise that will help to mentally stimulate your four-legged friend and build your bond with them.

As with all training, slow and steady wins the race. It's best not to overwhelm your dog with too much too soon, and train for short times and regularly to help them cement each task in their minds. 

The two main commands your furry pal needs to master are "Take it" and "Drop it", before they can learn the catch-all command "Toys away". To help you in their mastery of these you'll need a few things: their favorite dog toys, some tasty treats and an appropriately sized toy basket.

The 'take it' command

The first step is to get your dog to learn to pick up a toy. This is a variation on fetching and most dogs have already mastered the idea of fetch from a young age. Even if you have a more 'sit and stare at you after you've thrown a ball' type of dog, they should still master the 'take it' command if you make it interesting enough for them.

First, pick up your dog's favorite toy and move it around to get them interested in it. As the dog goes to take it out of your hand say "Take it". If you do praise your dog, make a big fuss of them and give them a pet. 

The 'drop it' command

Once they are carrying a toy the next stage is to get them to drop it. Most of our furry friends don't like to let go of what they are carrying, especially if it's an opportunity to play tug of war with you, so you need to offer them something they would prefer to have – a tasty treat.

Say "Drop it" just as they open their mouth to go for the treat and then give them the treat and praise them lavishly after they've let the toy go.

Then it's a case of repeating the take it and drop it actions a few times more to help them connect the command with the action. Spread this training out over a few days. Once they are taking the toy and dropping it on command pretty much consistently it's time to move on to getting the toys into the basket.

Getting them to put the toy in the basket

Choose the permanent place you want the basket to stay as you may confuse your dog if you keep moving it to different locations. Now get a few of their toys and place them next to the basket. Position yourself behind or over the basket and call your four-legged friend over. 

Now touch one of the toys and say "Take it". Once they have it in their mouth, entice their head over the basket with a treat and say "Drop it". When they do, hopefully it will land in the basket. If it does, put the treat inside the basket so they come to understand that good things are associated with this basket. Even if the toy doesn't land in the basket still give them the treat and praise them for carrying out the action correctly so they don't get confused.

Repeat this action until they are dropping the toys into the box nine times out of ten. Once this happens it's time to put it all together with a catch all command.

The 'toys away' command

Now you can start to throw the toys further away from the box in different locations around the room. Use the same "Take it" and "Drop it" commands, but as they go to retrieve the toy add the words 'Toys away". Again, lavish them with praise or a treat if they successfully put the toy in the box.

Repeat this for about 10 to 20 repetitions spread out over several days, slowly replacing the "Take It" and "Drop it" commands with the "Toys away" command. If they seem to get the idea, test your dog by instead of throwing the toys, when they are out of the room just placing the toys around the place. Then call them in and say "Toys away". If they do it, again reward them. If they don't, then some more repetitions are in order. 

With a bit of practice you'll never have a dog toy in sight again!

How to get a dog to sleep is something you’ve probably wondered about if you’ve ever spent a night lying awake in bed, listening to the clickety-clack of dog toenails on your floors as your dog paces around the house. While some dogs may bark or otherwise be disruptive during the night, even a quiet dog can be a distraction, especially if you’re a light sleeper. So if buying your dog the best dog bed you could find hasn’t helped at all, try reading these five tips for getting your dog to sleep through the night. 

1. Ensure that your dog gets plenty of exercise during their waking hours

When it comes to how to get a dog to sleep, the most important thing you can do actually begins early in the day! Just like us, dogs sleep better after a busy, active day. Aim to provide your dog with at least one to two hours of dog exercise, each and every day. This exercise might take the form of a couple of long walks around the neighborhood or a high-intensity indoor game for dogs, depending on your dog’s personality and health status. Regardless of the form of exercise you choose, the important thing is to ensure that your dog is tired by the end of the day. 

Many of our dogs spend their day at home alone while we’re at work or school. This often means that dogs spend much of the day sleeping, which makes it unsurprising that they’re full of energy at night! If this is the case for you, see if you can find a dog walker or a pet-loving neighbor who will provide your dog with some interaction and exercise during the day. If this isn’t possible, focus on providing your dog with a lengthy walk before and after work every day.  

2. Take your dog outside to eliminate right before bedtime

Nighttime restlessness can be a sign that your dog needs to go outside to urinate or defecate. A healthy adult dog should be able to hold their urine and stool through the night, so if your dog is routinely asking to go outside and you have ruled out medical problems (such as diarrhea or a urinary tract infection), it might help to ensure that your dog empties his bladder and bowels just before bedtime.

3. Establish a consistent bedtime routine for your dog. 

Like many humans, dogs are creatures of habit. If you begin following a predictable bedtime routine, your dog will probably learn that routine quickly and embrace it! Begin by adding a bit more structure to your own bedtime routine, then incorporate your dog into that routine. 

For the last several years, I’ve put my dog in his crate at bedtime. I give him a treat as a reward for getting in his crate and that is the very last thing before I crawl into bed at night. Now that he has learned the routine, my dog hops in his crate voluntarily to wait for his treat as soon as he sees me brush my teeth at night. He knows the next step in the routine is me telling him to “go night night” and giving him a treat, so he’s ready and waiting! If you don't yet have a crate there’s a good selection on offer in our guide to the best dog crates.

4. Give your dog a comfortable place to sleep, preferably in a crate

If your dog is restless during the night, it could be that he or she is having a hard time getting comfortable. Ensure that your dog has a set sleeping spot. For most dogs, a crate serves the purpose perfectly. Being confined to a crate will help your dog resist the temptation to roam the house, look out the windows, and investigate every little sound. Additionally, most dogs quickly embrace a crate as their “den”, and feel comfortable within their crate. 

Be sure there’s a soft, comfy dog bed in the crate that’s appropriate for your dog and make sure you know how to choose the right size dog bed. If your dog is young and destructive, look for something durable that your dog is unlikely to shred. If your dog is older, perhaps look at getting the best orthopedic dog bed you can find to help minimize joint discomfort during the night. In addition to a comfy bed, it’s also important to make sure that the bed or crate is large enough for your dog to sleep comfortably. Owners of larger breeds might find our round-up of the best large dog beds a helpful resource.

5. Visit your veterinarian to rule out medical issues.

In some cases, there may be medical causes for your dog’s nighttime restlessness. Perhaps your dog needs to go out more often, due to a urinary or gastrointestinal issue. Maybe arthritis, intervertebral disk disease, or some other cause of pain is making it challenging for your dog to get comfortable. In some cases, older dogs experience cognitive dysfunction that causes their sleep/wake cycles to become confused. 

If changes to your routine do not help your dog rest, or if the onset of sleep difficulties is relatively sudden or recent, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to help you rule out medical causes. Your veterinarian will begin by collecting thorough history, asking questions about your dog’s sleep issues such as when you first noticed them, whether you have observed any specific triggers, and any other information that you can provide. Next, your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical exam, looking for evidence of pain or disease. Finally, your veterinarian may recommend laboratory testing (such as blood tests, a urinalysis, and/or fecal parasite testing). This workup will help your veterinarian determine whether there may be an underlying condition that is causing your pet’s evening waking. 

What can I give my dog to sleep at night? 

Melatonin is a commonly-used sleep aid in humans, which can also be used in dogs. Melatonin has also been used to treat a number of canine medical conditions, including coat disorders and age-related cognitive dysfunction. 

Melatonin in dogs seems to have a low risk of side effects, although there has been limited research on its use in this species. Avoid using melatonin in puppies, pregnant dogs, and dogs with neurologic or liver disease, because there may be an increased risk of side effects. Melatonin may enhance the side effects of some medications, due to drug interactions. Talk to your veterinarian before administering melatonin, to determine whether it is a good option for your dog.

Depending on the cause of your pet’s night waking, your veterinarian may also be able to recommend other prescription medications or nutritional supplements that can help you and your dog get a good night’s sleep. 

How to massage a dog to sleep 

In some cases, a highly energetic dog may need help settling down for the night. A gentle massage can be a valuable sleep aid in these high-energy dogs.  

When massaging your dog, it’s important to keep the interaction calm. Use a soft, low tone of voice, instead of the high-pitched voice or “baby talk” that you may use with your dog in other contexts.

Get your dog to settle or lay down in their sleeping spot (on their dog bed, in your bed, etc.) and begin by calmly petting your dog. Use long, gentle strokes down the side of your dog’s face and body. Rub your dog’s chest gently, if they enjoy that. Finally, many dogs enjoy having their ears massaged as part of a soothing evening routine. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language, avoiding touch that your dog finds annoying and focusing on those that seem to help your dog become calm and relaxed. 

Getting a good night’s sleep is not impossible! 

Figuring out how to get a dog to sleep can be a challenge. In general, your best approach is to ensure that your dog has plenty of exercise and opportunities to eliminate during his waking hours, as well as a reassuring bedtime routine and a comfy place to sleep at night. If your dog’s sleep issues develop suddenly, however, it’s important to consider that there may be a medical cause. Schedule an appointment for a veterinary exam to rule out medical problems, then work on creating a routine that supports good sleep habits for your dog. 

 If you want to learn how to stop your puppy crying at night, check out this feature.

How to change a puppy’s food is a delicate business and many new pet parents find themselves wondering the best way to do it. You’ve likely already stocked up on the best puppy food, but if the formula doesn’t seem to be quite agreeing with your furbaby, it might be worth making a swap.

Right now is a crucial time in your puppy’s development, with their body going through a huge growth spurt and rapid development of their bones, muscles, immune system, and brain. Because of that, knowing when to abandon a particular food and switch your pup over to something else that’s more sustaining and nourishing, is as important as learning how to choose puppy food. 

With that in mind, we’ve pulled together some guidelines on how to change a puppy’s food safely as well as some reasons why you might need to mix things up, and what to look out for when you’re transitioning your pup onto their new diet.

• How much should I feed my puppy? A vets guide
• A vets view on when to stop feeding puppy food to your dog

Reasons for changing a puppy’s food

There are a couple of reasons why you might need to make adjustments to what your puppy’s eating. Just like human foods, each brand of puppy food is made up of varying proteins, fiber levels, nutrients, and bacteria. 

Lower quality brands, while more affordable, are more likely to use animal by-products and fillers in their meals and don’t always have the right fatty acid or vitamin and mineral balance. If you feel your puppy isn’t thriving the way you feel they should, it’s worth speaking to your vet to see if their diet may be the cause.

The other main reason for making a switch is allergies brought on by specific food sensitivities. These tend to develop before the age of six months and usually manifest in one or more of the following ways:

• Persistent scratching
• Ear infections
• Diarrhea or gas
• Constant licking or chewing
• Hair loss
• Bumps and rashes
• Coughing and wheezing
• Frequent sneezing

If you notice any of these symptoms in your pup, your vet can help you to execute an elimination diet to rule out the common suspects.

While failure to thrive and allergies are the two most common reasons to swap to different puppy food, there’s also another important factor - your furbaby may just a little fussier than most and not like the taste of the meal plan you currently have them on.

How to change a puppy's food

Whether you’re changing your pup’s food out of preference or because you’ve been advised to do so by their vet, we recommend transitioning them slowly over two weeks to avoid any problems.

Sudden changes that aren’t taking place under a vet’s guidance and observation can lead to more problems, particularly when it comes to stomach upsets and other digestive issues, so slow and steady is best to give their delicate systems time to adjust.

Days 1-3: For these first few days, put their regular food in one bowl and a few teaspoons of the new food in another bowl. Let them sniff it and get used to it and don’t worry too much about whether or not they eat it at this stage.

Days 4-6: Start mixing the two foods together, placing about three-quarters of their regular food and one-quarter of their new food in the same bowl.

Days 7-10: If the previous few days have gone well and they’re eating the new combination, give them equal portions of the old and new food.

Days 11-12: Swap the ratio’s now, giving your pup three-quarters worth of new food and one-quarter worth of their old food.

Days 13-14: Phase the old food out completely.

Once you’ve reached the end of the two-week period, your pup should be happily chowing down on their new food, but there are a few things worth watching out for while they’re making the transition.

Keep a watchful eye on your puppy

Minor tummy upsets aren’t uncommon when puppies get switched to a new kind of food, but you’ll want to chat to your vet if your furbaby starts vomiting, is feeling unwell, or stops eating.

When you first start introducing the new food, watch for diarrhea and hold back on increasing the portions until this has subsided. If runny stools happen further along in the transition, go back a few days and if need be, return to the old food for a week before trying again.

You’ll also want to avoid giving your pup any non-dog food during the transition as that will make it hard for you to identify whether the switch is proving successful or not.

Looking to ditch humans in favor of hounds by learning how to become a dog walker? You’re in the right place! If escaping the office and all its politics for an adventurous outdoor lifestyle with canine companions in tow sounds like a dream come true, then read on, because we have everything you need to know to get started as a dog walker.

It has long been known that dogs have magical healing powers, which is why you’ll so often find these loving and gentle creatures in pet therapy roles, bringing comfort to those who need it most. Given how much they can boost our mental and physical wellbeing, it’s no wonder that more and more people are looking to become dog walkers, but is it the right choice for you, and where do you even begin?

In this guide on how to become a dog walker, we take you through some of the most important steps you’ll want to consider before heading down this exciting new career path, including what’s required, the different ways to get started, and the supplies you’ll need. 

We’re doggy mad here at PetsRadar, so across the site you’ll find a wealth of information on the different dog breeds you’ll likely encounter when you become a dog walker, as well as articles specific to dealing with rescue dogs. We’ve also scattered plenty of helpful links throughout this guide to make sure you have everything you need as you embark on your new journey.

Ready to find out how to become a dog walker? Let’s dive in!  

• Best dog food
• Best dog toys
• Five great games for puppies

Step 1: Think through what’s required

Arguably the most important step on the path of how to become a dog walker is to have an understanding of what the job entails. While spending your day surrounded by canines makes for a pretty great life, dog walking isn’t all fun and games. 

You know those days when the rain and wind are lashing at the windows, and all you want to do is stay indoors? Or it’s freezing cold, and the mere thought of stepping out into the snow makes you want to sit by the fire with a cup of hot cocoa? What about those sweltering summers that leave you grateful for the air-conditioned comforts of home? 

As a dog walker, you need to be prepared to walk in all sorts of weather conditions, and with all sorts of dogs. While the sweet-natured and well-behaved ones make dog walking a dream, you’ll want to think through whether you can handle stronger breeds like the German Shepherd, or ones that are more territorial and wary of strangers, like the Cane Corso. 

Physical fitness is a must too, especially if word gets out about your dog-walking services, and you become flooded with requests. You want to make sure you’re comfortable being on your feet all the time, and have the upper body strength needed to ensure you’re walking the dog, not the other way around.

• Eight tips for training a rescue dog

2) Figure out which path to becoming a dog walker suits you best

When it comes to learning how to become a dog walker, several different routes will get you there, each with its pros and cons. Let’s take a look at each of them:

Use an app

This first option on how to become a dog walker has a lot of benefits, allowing you to join an established site like Rover or Wag, and set up a profile that lets dog owners in your area quickly find you and send walking requests your way. 

The big pro here is that you don’t have to go through all the effort of marketing your own business, as the app does all that for you. They also take payments through a secure platform that then transfers the money straight into your bank account.

We love how easy these apps are to use, taking so much of the hassle out of becoming a dog walker, but there are some drawbacks. Most apps will require you to undergo a background check and be over the age of 18, and you must be legally able to work in the United States. 

The biggest drawbacks are that they can take a significant portion of your earnings, and you may not be covered by their insurance policy, which means you’ll also need to take out your own liability and health insurance to cover you. 

Seek out a dog walking agency

If there’s a dog walking agency in your area, this is another option worth considering when learning how to become a dog walker. We love the small family feel of these types of businesses, and you benefit from their wealth of experience. They’ll likely have a lot of long-standing clients, know both the pet parents and their canines well, and have lots of knowledge about the area, so you’ll get plenty of tips on where to walk and where to avoid.

Like apps though, the big drawback is that you lose a hefty portion of your earnings, leaving you with an average hourly wage of around $15. If that feels too low, there’s one final route that warrants mulling over.

Start your own business

Yes, we know, that feels kinda scary, right? Launching a business is not for the faint-hearted, but trust us, it can be done. It may take more time and work, but when you weigh that up against the freedom and independence that comes with it, you may find that makes it more than worth it when deciding how to become a dog walker.

If you decide to take this route, we recommend doing plenty of research to make sure you know how to file all your taxes and paperwork. You’ll also want to register the business, decide on what services you’re going to offer, and set up a pricing plan. 

3) Brush up on doggy behavior

While dog walking isn’t currently a regulated industry, it’s still a good idea to learn all you can about how to become a dog walker, and this animal that you’re going to be spending so much time with. Some online institutions are starting to offer dog-walking courses that have been specially designed to help you learn how to train and handle dogs, giving you some valuable insight into their psychology.

It’s definitely not necessary to undertake a course, but it’s well worth at least reading up on different breeds so you know the kinds of temperaments you’re likely to be dealing with. While small breeds like Pugs may look like butter wouldn’t melt, they can be surprisingly stubborn, and the plucky Pomeranian will often try to rush into battle with dogs five times their size. 

Arming yourself with some research on the breeds you’ll be working with can help you get an idea of the sorts of issues that may arise when you’re out walking. 

4) Gather supplies

Now for the fun part – time to go shopping! You’re going to want to keep your canine clients happy when you’re out and about together, as a happy hound will make your life a whole lot easier.

We recommend arming yourself with plenty of the best dog treats, which you can use to make sure the canines in your charge are obedient when you need them to be. It’s important they learn that you’re at the top of the pack and that what you say goes – a few treats here and then can help sweeten the deal. 

Next up, you’ll want to get a good collapsible water bowl to ensure your canine clients stay well hydrated when you’re out on your walks, and although we hate to bring up the worst part of being a dog walker, poop bags need to be at the top of your list. 

Finally, your safety needs to be a top priority, especially if you’re doing any dawn or dusk walks or are walking any time when visibility is poor. Invest in some quality reflective clothing that ensures you’re easy to spot and it’s handy to have a reflective leash on you too, just in case the owners of your clients don’t have one. 

• How to train a dog with treats

5) Create a transition plan

If you’ve made the decision to become a dog walker then congratulations! Not only are you going to be helping your canine clients to stay fit and well, being around animals has long been known to be therapeutic, so you’ll be giving your own mental and physical health a boost too. 

While it’s important to feel energized and enthusiastic about this new path you’re going to be taking, it can be worthwhile creating a transition plan and starting small, especially if you’re already employed elsewhere. 

Managing dogs, especially more than one at a time, can take some practice, and don’t underestimate how exhausting it can be to be out walking all day, especially if you’ve had a lot of desk jobs in the past. 

Dipping your toe in the water gently by taking on a small clientele of dogs and walking them one at a time can be a great way to get a feel for whether this is a career path you’re keen to pursue long-term.