Some dogs love splashing around in the bath, but others really aren’t a fan of baths and can find them stressful and anxiety-inducing.

Getting a dog to relax and enjoy their bath is no mean feat, even when you’ve bought the very best dog shampoo, which makes the achievements of one dog groomer in California even more impressive.

Kyle Hinshaw, who lives in Greater Los Angeles and runs Animal Kingdom Dog Grooming, has an impressive following on TikTok and often shares footage of grooming sessions with hesitant or even aggressive dogs – ideal if you want to know how to give a dog a bath.

Hinshaw tells PEOPLE, "When it comes to washing dogs, my biggest challenge would have to be aggressive dogs and still giving them the same quality wash that I would any other dog."

He continues, "This can be navigated in many different ways and it depends on the type of aggression and type of dog as well. For example, a small dog that's trying to bite me I can physically handle easier and there's not as much risk in being bit."

Larger dogs are often easier to calm down, but as they can give greater damage they’re higher risk to groom, explains Hinshaw, who began grooming dogs in December 2018 and has also washed a pig and a hedgehog in the past – with a horse “coming soon”.

He says he’ll often say a short prayer and make the animal feel as comfortable as possible by talking to them and showing them what he’s doing and using. (Why do dogs hate baths? You can find out here.)

“Many dogs are just scared and they think I'm trying to hurt them or they think the brushes or dryers are going to hurt them,” he says. “If you can help them understand that you're there to help, it makes a world of a difference."

Many followers have taken Hinshaw’s advice on board, and he explains that many have reached out to tell him they use his techniques, with people from other grooming facilities even saying they use his videos to train new employees – it's easy to see why.

For more on grooming, you might find the following article useful: Everything I learned about grooming while running a pet health spa and how you can do it at home. Don’t forget to take a look at these 10 dog grooming tips from a vet, too.

Why do dogs have dewclaws may have been something you wondered as a dog parent. We wanted to know too, so we spoke to vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan. 

Essentially the thumb of a dog paw, the dewclaw does actually serve a purpose. They help pups on hold to things while they are knawing on them, like the best long lasting dog chews for example. They also help dogs maintain traction while running or turning around while doing their zoomies. 

Let's get into everything you need to know about why dogs have dewclaws in the first place and if you need to do anything about them. 

Why do dogs have dewclaws?

So, why do dogs have dewclaws? First, let's explain what a dewclaw is. "Dewclaw is the term used to describe the small digit higher up on the side of your dog’s paw. In anatomy terms, it is referred to as digit 1 and it is made up of two small bones and ligaments. The four other toes on their paw (digits 2 to 5) are made up of three bones each," says MacMillan. 

Every dog has dewclaws on their paws and they are actually important. As we mentioned earlier, the dewclaw helps pups hold on to items while they are chewing on them. They also help dogs to grip the ground while they running or turning around quickly. 

It is also said that dewclaws are similar to the human thumb, and we know how important that is to have. Just the same, dogs also need the dewclaw to help stabilize the wrist and this can be used for things like climbing or even swimming! 

Why do dogs have dewclaws removed?

If dewclaws are so helpful why do some dogs have them removed? It is uncommon that dewclaws on the front paws need to be removed. Unless, for medical reasons. 

Dewclaws on the back paws are a different story. Dewclaws on the back legs are pretty uncommon but in the case your pup does have them, you may want to consider having them removed. 

"They may only be attached by skin making them very mobile and dangly, due to the lack of bones present. This can make them more likely to get caught when running through brambles or thick undergrowth. Hind dewclaws may also be more prone to the nail curling round and becoming ingrown," says MacMillan. 

She goes on to say that it is for these reasons that a vet may suggest having them removed. If your pup does have dewclaws on their back legs you will want to speak with your vet if you feel they are causing your dog trouble. 

MacMillan also says, "It is generally considered unethical to remove the front dewclaws from dogs, so this should only be done if there is a medical reason. Examples include neoplasia (cancer), severe injury, or serious infection." 

Hind dewclaws are more commonly removed, as they can be prone to injury.

"Surgery to remove these dewclaws is less invasive as they are usually only attached by skin. Hind dewclaw removal is often performed at the same time as a routine procedure, like neutering. If your dog has a dewclaw removed, you will need to keep the area clean and dry post-surgery. Monitor closely for any signs of redness or infection." 

How to care for dewclaws

Luckily, there isn't much work required to take care of your dog's dewclaws. Trim your dog's nails regularly with one of the best dog nail clippers.  If you don't have clippers, never fear, check out our guide on how to cut dog nails without clippers.

MacMillan advises that back nails are not in contact with the ground as often and therefore more prone to becoming overgrown. So make sure not to forget them. 

If you found this content helpful be sure to check out How to clip a dog's nails and How to clean dog paws.

There’s so much advice out there for dog parents, from books to TV shows to social media influencers to well-meaning friends and relatives, that it can be easy to make things more complex than they really need to be. 

Sometimes, you can find a solution that’s surprisingly simple. So simple, in fact, that it might not actually occur to you. Take this idea to help you wipe your dog’s muddy paws – all you’ll need are some of the best dog treats. Juliana DeWillems, owner and head trainer at JW Dog Training, explains all in a new Instagram post. 

“Sometimes reducing frustrating scenarios is a simple fix,” says DeWillems. “If a muddy dog is bouncing around, mouthing the towel, and trying to get away from you, wiping them off can be a huge to-do. It doesn’t have to be that way.”

If you aren’t sure how to clean dog paws without much too much difficulty, this might be a good exercise to try. DeWillems explains that she gets a snuffle mat and loads it with plenty of small treats. With her dog outside, waiting to come in, she places it where she wants his head to make wiping his paws easier. 

“I lure him right to the snuffle mat,” she says, “And as soon as he dives in, I go to town wiping. I actually had to readjust him here because the snuffle mat was slipping and moving him around.” But as you can see in her video, he’s too busy enjoying his treats to mind too much. 

As DeWillems says, it can take some trial and error to find the best way to set the mat up for you to clean your dog’s paws, so don’t worry if it doesn’t go totally to plan right away. And in between wiping the paws, be prepared to reload to snuffle mat before your dog’s done so they don’t get bored or restless!

“Planning ahead with a distraction like this not only helps your dog associate handling and wiping with tasty treats, it also reinforces the behavior of standing still while you do it.”

Another option for your pup could be a licky mat smeared with peanut butter – essentially, anything that will keep your dog occupied with some sniffing or licking when they come inside. 

If you’d like advice about how to protect your pup’s paws and keep them healthy, you might find this article useful: Five natural ways to moisturize dog paws.

What does your dog think about being brushed? This is something that really can differ from canine to canine – some are more than happy being brushed, while others hate it. 

And, of course, there are plenty of pooches in between who don’t enjoy it but are able to tolerate it. For some dogs, it might be that they’ve had a bad experience with being brushed in the past, while for others it may just come down to boredom or even that they’ve been brushed with the wrong brush for their coat type. 

If your pup doesn’t like being brushed, you might decide to switch up your strategy and try a gentle approach that uses one of the best dog brushes to help ease them into it. Certified dog trainer Melissa Goodman of Mission Pawsitive has offered some advice in a recent Instagram post – will you try out her tips with your dog?

“Most dogs do not enjoy being brushed,” Goodman begins, “And it’s something you have to slowly get them used to.” In the video, she’s working with a dog, Teddy, and while she’s using a softer brush, she explains that he’s moving away from her while she brushes him. 

Goodman offers him treats, which he takes, and he’s not moving away from her completely, but it’s clear that he’s not comfortable. She explains that, as the goal is to get Teddy comfortable with being brushed, she stops the process when his body language indicates that it’s “too much” and she swaps over to the softer side of the brush instead – he clearly prefers it.

“This side of the brush does nothing for his coat,” she says, “But is a much gentler way to introduce the brush. We can gradually work up to the correct brush for his coat type from here, but making the process pleasant is much more important than trying to do a good job right away.”

Knowing how to brush a dog that hates being brushed is valuable, but what about puppies in particular? Goodman also explains in the caption that more care should be taken with younger pups, as their skin tends to be more sensitive. “The softer the brush, the better to start,” she says. “A slicker brush is the proper brush for Teddy’s coat, but the wire bristles are too much for the majority of puppies in the beginning. It’s okay to slowly work up to it!”

If you’d like to know more about brushing your pup, here are the five types of dog brushes and how to use them.

Have you ever tried to dry your dog off with a towel but had to deal with them getting mouthy? As frustrating as it can be, it’s quite common, particularly for puppies who perhaps aren’t used to it as much as older dogs. 

For some dogs, it’s playful – they might see the towel as being a toy, especially when you’re moving your hands around quickly. But, for others, it’s not necessarily as playful. It might just be that they don’t enjoy being dried with a towel. 

However, there’s a way to teach your pup to enjoy having you dry them with a towel, and all it takes are some of the best dog treats, or a lick mat. And certified dog trainer Melissa Goodman of Mission Pawsitive has explained what to do in a recent Instagram post. 

In the video, Goodman is working with a dog, Abby, and teaching her that sitting still is good when she’s being dried off by a human. She explains that you don’t have to wait until your dog is wet to begin teaching them, however, so there’s no time like the present!

“In fact,” she continues, “practicing when you don’t actually need to dry off your dog is even better.” 

Goodman begins by placing a treat on the floor, and wiping Abby with a towel for a few seconds, before repeating. She explains that using a frozen lick mat to help keep your hands free can be a good idea – after all, food enrichment for dogs is always a good idea! Or, if there’s another person around, one of you can feed your dog treats while the other dries them. 

“That way,” says Goodman, “Your dog learns that good stuff happens and you are rewarding calm behavior at the same time.”

Of course, every dog is different, so you might need to adapt the way you teach this skill slightly. As Goodman explains, she was able to be more casual in her approach in the video because Abby was more playful. But, for dogs who seem to dislike being dried with a towel more, she says in the caption that she will take it slower and use more food. 

And, if you practice this regularly, there’s more chance that your dog will let you dry them off with the towel the next time they’re actually wet!

It’s a good idea to keep on top of your dog’s nails, as living with nails that are too long can be unpleasant for your pup.

However, dogs often find having their nails clipped to be stressful, and this can have a knock-on effect on their parents, too. It can be tricky to get your dog to stay calm and still when you’re clipping their nails, and you risk hurting them if they move suddenly – and no dog parent wants that!

But what if you filed your dog’s nails instead? You can do so using a scratchpad, and some of the best dog treats, for a far less stressful alternative to clipping their nails. And certified dog trainer San Choi of Ruff Roll Academy has explained just how you can go about it in a new Instagram post! So, let’s take a look.

You know how to clip a dog’s nails, but your own pup just isn’t having it. Sound familiar? Instead of clipping, begin by simply introducing a scratchpad to your dog. 

Grab something like a frisbee or a cutting board and attach it to the scratchpad with adhesive spray. Begin with the non-abrasive side, and say a marker word like “yes” to your dog when they touch it. 

Choi says, “By saying yes, you’re able to teach your dog to scratch more.”

Give them a treat when they do so, too. Gradually progress to your dog scratching it. 

“We really want to make sure that our dog understands that the treats are happening when they touch the object,” explains Choi. 

Then, when they’re comfortable, you can switch to the abrasive side. You might decide to alternate between both sides to begin with, as your dog gradually becomes more comfortable with the abrasive side. 

When it comes to older or younger dogs, a normal nail file can also be useful. If you have a puppy with soft toenails, or an older dog with brittle nails, a nail file can help prevent pain and bleeding – even if you usually clip their nails instead. 

Remember to check your dog’s paw pads for foreign bodies as well as look between their toes for any issues, and consult your vet if there’s anything you’re unsure of. 

If you’ve been struggling with your dog’s nails and want to give filing them a go instead, you’re not alone. You might find this article useful: My dog hated having her nails clipped, so I built her a nail scratch board instead.

Do you have a dog that hates to be groomed? If your pup wriggles all over the place and refuses to stay still while you brush them, bathe them, or trim their nails, this one's for you!

Learning how to groom a dog is a challenge for a lot of pet parents, particularly those who have a canine companion who would rather be doing anything else.

That's where expert dog grooming tips can come in handy. And trainer Christie Catan, the co-founder of Tails of Connection, has just shared a brilliant one on Instagram.

Read on to find out what it is...

Teaming up with fellow doggy expert Julianna DeWillems, the pair reveal their favorite training hack for dogs that get wiggly, restless, or mouthy when they try to brush them, wipe their paws, or put on their harness.

"We smeared some cream cheese onto this licky mat but you could easily just smear something tasty right on the door or on the floor," DeWillems says in the video as she shows a mat stuck to a window that her dog is licking the food off of.

"The goal with this hack is to keep the dog occupied and enjoying themselves while we quickly do what we need to do, making it easier and lower stress for everyone."

Catan goes on to say that while having a dog voluntarily stand calmly and opt into a grooming session is an important goal to strive for, there are simple and easy solutions (like the one above) that you can use while you're working towards those bigger goals.

"For us, something tasty smeared in front of the dog or a big pile of crumbled dog treats on the ground accomplishes what we need: a dog who is stationary and whose head and mouth are occupied," explains Catan.

The pair say it's important to always watch your dog's body language when you're grooming them.

"Ideally you want to see your dog relaxed and eating (like in this video!), and not tense, freezing, trying to get away, or unable to eat," they explain.

If you find yourself stuck and the tip above doesn't work, we recommend working with a professional trainer to help your pup slowly feel calmer and more comfortable when being groomed. 

If you have a dog that hates having a bath, you may find trying to get them clean more than a little challenging. While some of our canine companions love tub time, others find the whole experience really stressful — which is where learning how to give a dog a bath in a way that works for them can be really helpful. 

Although selecting the best dog shampoo is certainly important, there's a lot more to a successful bath session than simply getting your dog's coat clean. You also want to make sure that they feel comfortable and that the overall bathing experience is as calm and relaxing as possible. 

Thankfully, expert trainer Julianna DeWillems has a great tip for reducing tub time stress based on her own experience with her bath-phobic Chihuahua, Lola. You can watch her walk you through things in the Instagram video below or keep reading for a summary of what she has to say. 

"Baths can be really stressful, but there are ways to reduce some of that stress," explains DeWillems. "We use predictability as much as we can during baths. We find that when we have to reduce choice, predictability of what’s going to happen and when can really help."

In the video, DeWillems can be seen giving her a dog a bath after she rolled in poop. Because the bath was unavoidable, she didn't present Lola with a choice as to whether or not she could go in the tub. 

"I didn't try to coax her to me, use a treat to lure her over, or call her with one of her known cues because doing that and then snatching her up to put her in the bath tub would have been a great way break her trust."

Instead, DeWillems gently picked up Lola, gave her a treat, and carried her to the sink. 

"It's important that we don't give our dogs the illusion of choice if it's not a situation where we can honor when they say no. Yes we aim to give our dogs as much choice as possible, but if them saying no isn’t an option, pretending like they have choice and then taking that away can be really stressful and scary," she explains.

Instead, DeWillems advocates for moving them quickly and gently to where you need them and ensure you follow up with plenty of tasty dog treats. "This reduces how much, if any, is withdrawn from our trust account." 

Building a deep, rich reinforcement history with your dog means you're constantly depositing into your trust account. When you need to make a withdraw, it won't have as big of an impact on your relationship as you've built a solid foundation. 

And while DeWillems is seen using a sink to bathe Lola, the tips she shares in her video will work equally well in a regular bath tub if you have a large breed dog.

As always, we recommend reaching out to a professional trainer if you need support with this, or any other aspect, of your dog's care. 

Can you use human shampoo on a dog? Check out our vet's advice for everything you need to know about bathing your pup safely. 

Being a dog owner comes with a lot of responsibilities, and one of them is maintaining their hygiene. Nail trimming is just one important task among many others, such as checking your dog has healthy dog gums vs unhealthy, but it's one you'll want to keep on top of.

However, it is not always an easy task, as most dogs are reluctant to let anyone touch their paws. This makes nail trimming a daunting task for pet parents, and it can lead to stress and anxiety in dogs and the owner. Fortunately, an online dog trainer has come up with an easy DIY hack to make this process much more straightforward and stress-free.

The hack involves using a scratchboard to file the dog's nails instead of the traditional nail clippers. Amelia Steele, known best online as Amelia The Dog Trainer, shared in a previous video on Instagram how to make your own scratchboard. So once you make your own budget-friendly nail filing tool you'll just need some tasty dog treats and you're ready to give it a go with your pooch.

Steele's method is a safer and more comfortable way to trim your dog's nails as it does not cause any discomfort to the pet. Watch how she uses it with her own pet in the video below...

This solution may be a game-changer for pet parents struggling with traditional nail-clipping methods.

Steele explains how to initiate the filing, "Starting off by holding the pad in the air, I'm then going to put it down and then I'm going to start marking and rewarding for any interaction that Indy has with the board."

She notes that if your dog typically sits or lies down in these situations you can start to throw the treat away from you in between each repetition. "Then after a few repetitions of just rewarding him for any interaction," Steele continues, "I'm going to specifically focus on rewarding him for using his paws. Again, throwing the treat away in between each repetition can really help them with this."

"If your dog knows how to give paw, you can also cue paw. At this stage, we want to keep it really easy so that they stay engaged. So any time they make an effort to interact with the board with their feet, mark and reward."

You might be thinking of similar questions that were shared in the comments section of Steele's post like, how long will this task take to file down the dog's nails sufficiently and how can you do the back paw nails? 

Firstly, this might not be the most efficient way to trim down your dog's nails but it should help keep them well-managed before passing the task on to a professional groomer. Steele also said in her video that she will be posting a second part soon demonstrating how to do the back paws.

While on the topic of canine grooming tips, why not read up on reasons for bad breath in dogs or find out the reasons behind excessive licking in dogs?

Properly caring for your dog is a mixture of a variety of factors, including having the right nutrition, good training and ensuring that their grooming needs are met. However, this can be easier said than done – especially since not everyone knows what they need to be looking out for.

While it’s not uncommon for dogs to develop small mats (especially if they’ve recently been exposed to water), you need to try your best to keep on top of them. No matter where they are on the body, mats are uncomfortable for your dog and pull on their skin. However, if the matting is behind the ears, then this can actually pose a genuine health risk for your dog. 

This is because matting behind the ear can cause a hematoma, which is essentially an extreme bruise made up of burst blood vessels under the skin that have created a pocket of blood (akin to a blood blister). The hematoma can be formed due to the matting pulling the skin away from the internal cartilage of the ear in multiple directions. This can be enough to cause a hematoma in itself, but it can also be exacerbated by the dog shaking its head or scratching its ear – which are both behaviors that are common with dogs who are dealing with the discomfort of a matted ear. So, if you've been asking; why is my dog shaking his head, that could be why.

Depending on the type of dog you have (and what their fur is like), the amount and type of grooming you’ll need to do will be different from owner to owner. For example, poodle crosses are extremely prone to matting and need to be brushed correctly as often as once per day. Dogs with long, thick fur also need regular brushing to ensure they remain tangle-free. However, there are also plenty of dogs whose grooming needs are much less intensive, including short haired dogs such as greyhounds, beagles and vizslas. 

With this in mind, the likelihood of your dog developing mats behind its ears will depend on the type of coat they have. If they have a coarse poodle-like coat, a double coat, or long fur, then there’s a higher risk factor and you should be checking for mats more often than shorter-haired dogs would require. 

Lara Sorisi, a championship gun dog trainer and APDT-certified dog trainer, says, “If your dog is prone to matting behind the ears, it’s really important to get them clipped out. If the mat is too tight, it can pull on the capillaries in the ear. I know a groomer who has had blood burst from dogs’ ears after shaving out the mats – not because she did anything wrong, but because the mats were in such a bad state.”

How do you know if your dog’s ear is matted?

One of the best ways to determine whether your dog is suffering from matted ears is to feel with your hands. It’s actually good practice to regularly do full body checks on your dogs, from their face to their back paws and everything in between. Not only will this help you keep on top of any forming mats, but it’ll also alert you to any other potential issues, such as ticks or injuries. 

However, if you want an almost foolproof way to determine whether your dog has any matting (just feeling with your hands alone can cause you to miss the smaller mats), you’ll want to invest in a dog grooming comb. If you can run this through your dog’s fur against the skin (pressing lightly of course), then you can easily ascertain whether your dog is mat-free or not. 

What should you do if your dog has matted ears? 

For matting, preventative measures really are the best cure, so it’s important to be vigilant about any matting and take your dog for regular grooming so that mats don’t have a chance to develop. However, if you have discovered a mat, then you’ll need to try and get rid of it as soon as possible. Don’t be tempted to put the task off for later, as they tend to get worse with time (and can often get quite a lot worse quite quickly). 

If the mat is severe, then the most humane way to get rid of it is to shave it out completely. Whether it’s done by yourself or by a groomer, this is the quickest and easiest way to ensure that the mat is gone as quickly as possible. If you’re not sure how to tackle this, we’d recommend booking in with a groomer. Not only will they be fully equipped to handle the mat, but they’ll also be able to give you advice on how to prevent matting in the future. 

However, there are many dogs that can get anxious about being handled. Lara says, “Having worked closely with both vets and groomers, it’s been awful to hear about how many dogs are so traumatized by the grooming and veterinary process. As a breeder, it’s my duty to owners to ensure the importance of handling isn’t overlooked. In fact, I currently have five-week old puppies and I do handling desensitization with them every day – but it’s really important that owners continue this work at home. 

“The reason it’s important to get dogs used to being handled is so that you don’t add stress to what can already be a very stressful situation. For example, if a dog has hurt one of its paws, not only is the dog in pain, but you’re also taking them to an environment where they’ll be handled by a stranger. If the handling preparation hasn’t been done correctly, a full-blown phobia can occur from just that single situation.

“I would recommend spending some time every evening doing a full body check on your dog, checking everything including eyes, ears, nose, mouth, teeth, chest, belly, legs, paws, tail, etc. It isn’t just essential for the vets and groomers – it also makes your life much easier, as you can wipe their paws off after a muddy walk or towel dry them if they’ve taken a dip in a river.”

Training your dog how to be handled by vets and groomers is an essential part of setting them up for success throughout their life. It’ll also help you keep on top of any mats that start to form in the future so that you can ensure your pup stays happy and healthy.

Need some tools to help keep your dog's fur in top condition? Check out our round up of the best dog grooming kits.

Do you want to know my least favorite sound? It’s the clattering of my dog’s nails on my kitchen floor. Every time I hear it, I’m reminded that, despite my very best efforts, her nails are too long. For the past few months, I’ve battled with balancing trimming Fenwick’s nails to a reasonable length versus keeping her calm and positive throughout the process. It’s not an easy balance to keep and I’ve found myself growing frustrated with this two-steps-forward-one-step-back dance. 

Border collies are genetically prone to being nervous and sensitive – and Fenwick certainly got the memo, as she is one of the most sensitive beings I’ve ever come across! Despite doing my best to desensitize her as a puppy to being handled and groomed (although, in hindsight, not as much as I should have done), she really dislikes having her nails clipped with one of the best dog nail clippers. 

The reason I’m so unhappy with the state of Fenwick’s nails is that it’s detrimental to her health for them to be too long. Lara Sorisi, an APDT-certified dog trainer, says that “long nails can be really uncomfortable for dogs when they’re moving and walking. It can also leave them at a higher risk of having an injury, as the dog can end up catching them, ripping them out, or dislodging them when the nails aren’t properly trimmed. It’s really important to have the correct nail length for your dog and manage it at all times.”

However, despite how important it is to cut your dog’s nails, it’s equally important to make sure that you’re not forcing them into a situation that makes them scared or fearful. Lara says, “It’s never too late to introduce a handling procedure to your dog, but it’s important to always make sure that it’s a positive experience. If you just go straight in and grab the dog’s paw, then you could be at risk of hurting the dog, or even being hurt yourself if the dog reacts negatively due to the high-stress situation that you’ve placed it in.

“If your dog hates having its nails clipped, but you physically force them to do it anyway, your dog may go into Fight, Flight or Freeze. No matter which option they choose, you’ll be damaging the bond with your dog and making it even more difficult to cut their nails next time. Any scenario that requires handling needs to be treated really carefully and it needs to be broken down multiple times before you encounter a scenario where your dog absolutely needs their nails trimmed due to safety.”

Fenwick and I have come a long way in our grooming journey, as I’ve gone from not even being able to get the nail clippers anywhere near Fenwick’s feet to now being able to clip three or four nails per session. However, I’m still struggling to ensure that her nails are at the correct length (she’ll snatch her paws away if I linger near her feet too long, so it’s hard to gauge where exactly to trim her nails), so I wanted to try something different.

I’d heard of nail scratchboards through seeing other dog owners use them on social media and thought that it was something Fenwick would easily take to. While she’s a sensitive soul, she’s also whip-smart and always eager to learn something new. The concept of a nail scratchboard is simple – rather than the owner using nail clippers or dremels to shorten the dog’s nail, they do it themselves by scratching at the rough surface of a scratchboard.

You can purchase ready-made options such as this Scratchboard but I decided to try making my own to start with.

Training a dog to use a nail scratchboard 

Making the scratchboard itself was even easier than I was expecting. I used a leftover flooring sample (although any type of wooden board would work), a very fine grit sandpaper (although I would likely choose a medium–to–fine grit next time), and some tape. I simply measured the sandpaper to fit the board and then fitted tape on all sides to make it as secure as possible. I didn’t worry about gluing the sandpaper down or finding a more permanent way to attach it, as I knew that I’d have to replace it at some point anyway. 

Once I’d created my DIY scratchboard, I followed the steps below to train Fenwick to use it. It’s generally advised to fully train the front paws first before you tackle the back paws, so I only cover training the front paws here. 

1. Introduce your dog to the scratchboard

Before you begin, make sure that you’ve got a good supply of the best dog treats to reward your dog. Then, place the scratchboard down flat on the ground in front of your dog. To begin with, every time your dog interacts with the scratchboard (whether that’s by sniffing it, lying down next to it, or putting their paw on it), mark the behavior with a ‘Yes’ or ‘Good’ and give them a treat. This will tell your dog that good things happen when the scratchboard is around. 

2. Reward them for touching their paw to the scratchboard

If your dog touches their paw on the scratchboard (or even near the scratchboard), mark the behavior particularly enthusiastically and give them multiple treats to help them understand that this is what you want them to do. At this point you don’t need to be giving them any commands – you’re letting them figure out what you want by themselves. 

As your dog begins to understand what you want them to do, you can start to become more discerning about when they get rewarded. For example, if your dog has touched their paw to the board multiple times already, but doesn't quite place it right on their latest go, withhold the marker cue and treat until they do it correctly. 

3. Gradually increase the incline of the scratchboard

Once you feel that your dog fully understands the concept of placing their paw on the scratchboard for a treat, you can start to increase the incline. I would recommend doing this very gradually, starting at a height where you can fit two fingers underneath the board and going from there. As the height increases, your dog’s paw will naturally drag down the board due to gravity (they will naturally use their nails, so you shouldn’t need to worry about their paw pads being hurt). 

At this point, once Fenwick began properly scratching at the scratchboard, I introduced a command cue of ‘Scratch’. Every time she chose to scratch at the board, I would say ‘Scratch’ and give her a treat. After several repetitions of this, I then began to ask her to perform the behavior by saying ‘Scratch’, waiting for her to do it, and then marking and rewarding her. 

By the end of a single 15-minute training session, Fenwick had learned how to scratch the board on command. While I’d been confident that she would pick this new behavior up quickly, she still surprised me with how fast she learned it. I suspect that the previous paw-targeting training that we’ve done helped, but I don’t think it was a necessary part of the process. 

I’ll definitely be adding the nail scratchboard into Fenwick’s regular grooming routine. My rationale is that if I can keep her front nails short with the scratchboard, then I can focus my desensitization on her back paws, making the overall process easier on both of us. 

Looking for more on this? Be sure to find out how to stop a dog’s nail from bleeding or check out the best dog nail files.

In an ideal world, dogs would enjoy a pamper session and sit perfectly still as you give them a pedicure. Unfortunately, this isn't the case for many canine owners who desperately want to overcome the first hurdle...getting their dog to stay still.

Whether you have a young and lively pup who can wriggle its way out of any position, or an older more stubborn pooch, you'll know how tricky nail trimming can be even with one of the longest lasting dog chews to hand for distraction purposes.

But before you lose all hope and resort to paying a vet to trim down your dog's nails, dog behavior specialist Gia Savocchi has shared on Tiktok her tried and tested method for getting a dog to stay calm during a nail trimming session.

Savocchi says in her video, "One part of trimming your dogs nails is teaching them how to stay still in the right position before you even get started with the trim." 

Aware of the common battle that many dog owners face she goes on to demonstrate with her own canine how important the setup is in order to reinforce stillness and calm before getting started on the job.

Watch Thinking Canine demonstrate how to keep your dog still for nail clipping

"I personally like to teach my dogs how to lay calmly in my lap and that gives me easy access to their nails for both inspections and trims," Savocchie notes. "I like using clippers and a dremel and this position works great for both of those tools." If you aren't familiar with a dremel, it is a rotary dog grooming tool used for grinding down a dog's nails.

She encourages using treats when trying out her technique on your own dog, as she does with her own. "I teach my puppy to lay calmly on her back with her face resting against my leg using plenty of treats and then I get her used to (me) handling her feet before we even try to do a trim."

It's no wonder dogs don't enjoy being forced into a certain position while clippers are brought so close to their paws. This is why building trust before and during the nail-clipping process will help. Savocchi says that her dog has been taught to accept hugs and to be picked up before she tries to gently flip her on her back.

Dogs come in all shapes and sizes so setting your dog up in the laying down position between your legs may not be that easy. However, instilling trust between you and your dog like Savocchi recommends can still help you and your dog to find a position that they feel comfortable in and this should ensure they stay still while you clip away at their nails.

Is it safe to use human clippers on dogs? It’s a question you may have found yourself asking if your canine companion’s coat is in need of a trim and you haven’t had time to invest in one of the best dog grooming kits. 

While it may seem like a sensible idea to save money and groom your pup at home using your own hair clippers, it’s important you do not use human clippers on your dog. Although they look similar, they’re actually designed very differently, and using them could lead you to accidentally cause your dog more harm than good.

The blades on dog hair clippers have different teeth lengths and spacings and are much sharper than the finer and shorter blades found on human hair clippers. Because of this, human hair clippers can end up pulling a dog’s fur rather than cutting it, which can be a painful experience.

There’s also the issue of heat, with human hair clippers designed to be used for a much shorter period of time than dog hair clippers. Manufactured differently to prevent overheating, dog hair clippers are built to be able to run for an extended time so that you can safely clip all of that dense and thick hair.

We spoke to Dr. Joanna Woodnutt to get her take on using human clippers on dogs. Check out our guide to the best dog nail clippers or read on to find out everything you need to know to make that home grooming experience a safe one.

What is the difference between human hair and dog hair? 

Hair and fur are all the same thing, right? If you’ve already got a set of hair clippers at home, it might seem like a perfectly sensible thing to do to use them for your furry friend’s coat, too. But Woodnutt advises against using your own clippers on your dog.

"Dog hair is generally thicker and coarser than human hair," she explains. In many dogs, an ‘undercoat’ of fur is also present, something we don’t get in humans! This undercoat can pose a real problem for clippers that aren’t designed for the job. "

Some dogs do have coats which are similar to human hair. Known as a single coat, dogs with this type of fur don’t have an undercoat and only have an outer coat, which tends to be fine and not too far removed from human-like hair. Lots of dogs have this type of fur, including Greyhounds, Dalmatians, Poodles, Afghan Hounds and much more - if you’re not sure, try a search online with your specific breed, or ask a vet or a groomer.

Plenty of dogs however have what’s known as a double coat. No human has hair like this, so you’ll definitely need a dedicated set of pet clippers to tackle breeds who have this. A double coat means that the dog has an outer coarse outer coat, and a softer, thicker undercoat as well. Some example of breeds with double coats include the Chow Chow, Pomeranian, Shiba Inu and the Siberian Husky. 

Regardless of the type of coat your canine companion has, it's going to vary to some degree in thickness and density to human hair and because of that, we recommend you always use a good pair of dog hair clippers when grooming your pup.

What are the main differences between dog hair clippers and human clippers? 

There are quite a few fundamental differences between dog clippers and human clippers, even if the differences aren’t quite so obvious from the outside. 

"Dog hair clippers are generally more robust than human hair clippers, as they’re designed to go through thicker fur and the deeper layers," explains Woodnutt. "Human hair clippers generally opt for a closer shave than dog hair clippers too, meaning that you may need attachments to get a longer clip. Remember, dog skin is much thinner than human skin and can tear during clipping, especially if you shave too close on a wiggly animal!"

Clippers which have been designed with dogs in mind also use less powerful motors which are gentler and quieter, since dogs can understandably quite nervous around strong vibrations and loud noises. Since the motor is less powerful, it also means that dog clippers can last longer from a single charge, without the risk of overheating. Most human clippers are designed to be used for much shorter lengths of time, since it doesn’t take as long to sort out a human’s head of hair than an entire dog’s body.

Most dog clippers are also cordless, which can come in handy when trying to deal with an awkward or wriggly dog, whereas it’s a lot more common for human clippers to be corded (especially those with a more powerful motor). 

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, there’s a big difference in blades. Human clippers use smaller, finer blades that cut closer to the skin, while dog clippers use thicker, longer blades which are designed to move through coarser hair and don’t get so close to the skin. Combs or attachments that fit over the clipper blades tend to allow for a much closer / shorter cut with human hair compared to what is likely to be more appropriate or desirable for a dog’s fur. 

Is it safe to cut dog hair with human clippers?

Generally speaking, Woodnutt says it’s best if you use dog clippers to groom your pooch. "Having said that you can use human hair clippers on a dog if you only need them very occasionally for a light job – for instance, to painlessly remove stubborn burrs in your dog’s tail, ears, or ‘trousers’. If you’re going to be regularly grooming your dog at home, it’s sensible to invest in dog hair clippers – they’ll last longer, be easier to use, be less noisy, and be less painful for your dog."

When using human clippers, you should be as gentle as possible, and stop should the dog be showing any signs of distress. If possible, use the clippers on the lowest possible setting and take plenty of breaks.

Human clippers may make the job more difficult than is necessary, so it’s not only good for your pet that you invest in a dedicated pair, but it’s likely to cause less stress for you too.

Can you use human nail clippers on dogs?

In comparison to human nails, you'll find that a dog's talons are typically extra thick and difficult to clip through. With this in mind, it's not advisable to use human nail clippers on your dog as dog nail clippers are specifically designed to cut through safely and efficiently. Many dog nail clippers feature safety mechanisms such as a guard or stop mechanism which looks to prevent your dog's nail from bleeding.

One exception is puppies: you can use human nail clippers on young puppies' nails if you feel confident, but it won't be long until they're too thick to cut without the right tool for the job. 

It's always best to seek out a good quality pair of dog nail clippers that will last the extra mile and perform a quick and painless task every time, saving both money and risk down the line. 

What kind of clippers can I use on my dog? 

Buying your own set of dog clippers is the practical solution, and it needn’t be a huge expense - especially in comparison to multiple trips to the groomers.

There are several types of dog hair clippers on the market, but as a good rule of thumb, you should be looking for cordless clippers that offer quiet / low vibrations and if possible offer other useful extras such as variable speeds and the ability to cut to different coat lengths. 

For dog nail clippers, you'll want to think of size, style, longevity, comfort and you may also consider whether dog nail clippers or grinders are better for you and your pet. 

Sometimes it's worth spending a little extra for a high-quality clipper as inexpensive dog nail clippers are prone to becoming dull quicker, saving you money in the long run. 

Enjoyed this piece and looking for more great tools to add to your dog's grooming kit? Then be sure to check out our guide to the best dog brushes.

Can you use human shampoo on a dog? If your canine companion is in desperate need of a bath after a particularly muddy walk and you don’t have any doggy shampoo on hand, you may be tempted to crack open your own shampoo bottle thinking it won’t do any harm.

It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking all shampoos are created equal, especially when you have a stinky canine emergency on your hands, but according to Dr. Joanna Woodnutt, it's important that you stick to the best dog shampoo and avoid lathering your pup up with products designed for humans. 

"It’s best not to use human shampoo on a dog," Woodnutt says. "Human skin is more acidic than canine skin, so the shampoos are balanced to take this into account. Canine skin is also thinner than human skin, meaning it’s more prone to damage by harsh shampoos and is generally more sensitive."

That’s why a good dog shampoo should always be your number one choice when bathing your dog. Specifically formulated to suit the coat and skin of your fur friend, dog shampoos come in a range of different types to suit the needs of every breed. 

Below, we reveal our favorite DIY dog shampoo alternatives for those times when you’re in a pinch and reveal how often you should bathe your dog. Check out our guide to the best dog conditioner or keep reading to find out everything you need to know to make bath times a safe experience for your canine companion. 

Can you use human shampoo on a dog?

Human shampoo is unlikely to cause harm to your dog if you've accidently applied it as a one-off, but it's important to note that it's not a long-term solution. 

This is because a dog's skin is made up of several delicate layers that can be damaged by chemicals that have a different acidity level. Dogs have different pH levels to humans, meaning human shampoo is far too harsh for your pup.

While human skin typically has a pH balance of between 5.5 and 5.6, it's normal for your canine friend to have a normal pH balance of between 6.2 and 7.4; typically more neutral than acidic.

Using human shampoo on dogs can disrupt the outer layer of skin called the acid mantle that protects their body from nasty organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and yeasts. 

Can you use baby shampoo on dogs?

Can you use baby shampoo on dogs? According to Woodnutt, it's best not to. "Although baby shampoo is the gentlest human shampoo out there, it still isn’t ideal for dogs," she explains. "It’s still too acidic for canine skin and, over time, is likely to cause problems. Having said that, if your dog has rolled in something disgusting and you’re out of doggy shampoo, a one-off wash with baby shampoo will be safe for most dogs."

If you choose to use baby shampoo, opt for one that is unscented and clear without any added colors or fragrances. 

What can I use if I don't have dog shampoo? 6 DIY dog shampoo alternatives

Whether you've forgotten a few essential pet supplies or fancy trying out an all-natural solution, there are a few DIY dog shampoo alternatives you can try.

Whilst they may not replace a good home shampoo session in your bath, these homemade solutions can work well for an instant freshen-up. 

1. Pet wipes

Wipes are growing in popularity in the pet world thanks to their convenience and ease of use. Especially if your dog hates baths and only has light dirt or dust on its coat, a pet wipe will remove any surface dirt without resorting to a trip to the bathtub. They're particularly handy for wiping down small areas, such as muddy paws, but are not effective for providing a deep cleanse. 

2. Castile soap

Castile soap is typically free of chemicals and provides a good pH balance on your dog's skin. It can work on canines with sensitive skin and contains no fragrances that could potentially cause irritation.

Some pet owners create their own homemade dog shampoo using Castile soap and other common ingredients found around the home. 

3. Baking soda

Another common ingredient found in homemade dog shampoo is baking soda. It can applied direct into your dog’s coat, but it can be dry, so you may look to mix it with oatmeal and water. Simply mix one cup of oatmeal with half a cup of baking soda and warm, not boiling, water. 

4. Vinegar and water

For a light clean-up, you can combine water and vinegar together for a handy spritz. Combine equal parts of either white vinegar or ACV plus filtered or distilled water into a spray bottle and shake to blend. 

5. Cornstarch

A handy substitution for dry dog shampoo is cornstarch, which is commonly found in most kitchen cupboards. Shake it over their coats to freshen up your pooch and work the powder into their fur for best results. You can pull out any excess powder with a grooming comb or brush.

6. Baby shampoo

While not ideal, using baby shampoo on your dog one-off is unlikely to do any harm to your pet. This is because it's considered to be gentler than other human shampoos due to containing fewer ingredients and minimal perfumes. Therefore, it can be used in emergency but shouldn't be used repeatedly. 

Can I use Dawn dish soap to wash my dog?

Dawn dish soap is frequently cited as a way to kill fleas on pets, which might be why you're wondering whether it can act like a shampoo too. According to Woodnutt, it's important that you don't use Dawn dish soap to bathe your dog.

 "Although Dawn is often recommended as an alternative to dog shampoo, especially when there are fleas, it’s not a good solution," she explains. "It’s incredibly drying and not the right pH for the skin. It will strip the skin and fur of the protective natural oils and disrupt the skin barrier. The skin has its own microbiome – just like the gut – full of healthy bacteria and yeasts living in harmony with your dog. Dawn can disrupt this natural flora and increase the likelihood of skin infections from overgrowth of bad bacteria and yeasts."

How often should you wash your dog?

How often should I bathe my dog is a question you may have found yourself asking on more than one occasion. Let's face it, dogs get pretty smelly so it can be tempting to bathe your dog on a frequent basis but doing so can actually dry out their skin or even cause skin disorders. Bathing too regularly can also interfere with any existing skin and worming treatments your dog is using.

According to Woodnutt, how often you should bathe your dog depends on their coat, how mucky they get and any allergies they have. "In general, most short-coated dogs get away with being bathed no more than once a month. Longer-coated or curly-coated dogs might need bathing more regularly than this as part of a grooming regimen," she explains. 

"Some dogs with allergies will need to be bathed twice a week or more. While this isn’t a good idea for most dogs (it will dry out the skin and cause problems!) it can be really soothing for allergic dogs, especially when a medicated shampoo is used."

Picture the scene: there’s mud all over the floor, water sprayed up the walls, and scratch marks down both your arms. This might sound like some sort of battleground, but it is in fact the aftermath of a dysfunctional doggy bathtime. 

If this sounds all too familiar to you, keep reading. If you’ve tried giving your pooch the best dog treats to lure them into the bath and that hasn’t worked, then look no further. The experts at JW Dog Training have shared three tips to help you wash your mucky pup without the splashing and crashing that usually comes with it. 

“Bathing and grooming can be an important need for our dogs, and they can also, unfortunately, be stressful,” the trainers say. “Taking steps to reduce stress makes bath time easier on everyone. A big theme here is planning ahead and doing proactive training in between baths and grooming.”

Look below to learn three easy ways to make bath time a breeze and help your pet clean up their act. So, the next time they decide to play in a puddle or (if you’re really unlucky) roll in a pile of poop, you needn’t fear the “b” word. 

1) Create a positive association 

 If your dog isn’t a big fan of bath time, try pairing this activity with something you know they love. This could be a treat, toy or just some affection.

“We pair bathtime with something our dog loves to create a positive association,” JW Dog Training explains. “We prepare a lick mat with tasty stuff smeared on it for our dog to enjoy while we bathe him.”

The trainers like to use one of their pet’s favorite treats (cream cheese) to distract them from the potentially stressful bath time experience. By doing this, their dog becomes occupied by the lick mat, leaving them to clean their pup in peace. 

2) Use easy-to-use bathing products  

Some aspects of bath time will be down to trial and error; working out what your pup does and doesn’t like. Try finding a cleaning product that not only works well, but is also practical to use and preferred by your pup. The JW Dog Training team recommends trying a bar soap rather than a bottled product as this can be used to “get the job done quickly and with as little restraint as possible”.  

3) Learn from past bath times and use proactive training

If you’ve encountered problems with specific parts of the cleaning process in the past, JW Dog Training says you can learn from these experiences to make your next bath run a little more smoothly. Identify areas your dog doesn’t like, then find a way to create a positive association with these activities using proactive training. 

“We take note of any parts of the process that our dog struggled with and we make a plan for proactively training around that issue before our next bath. Proactive training around bathtime skills can go a really long way.”

For example, if your dog doesn’t like getting into the tub, you could give them one of their favorite treats during this part of bath time. 

However, if problems do persist, JW Dog Training ends by saying: “If you’re struggling with your dog’s grooming needs, be sure to consult with a qualified professional.”

If you’re thinking of welcoming the gentle giant of the canine kingdom into your family, you may have found yourself asking the question “do Great Danes shed?” 

Known as  the ‘Apollo of dogs” thanks to their stately grace, this huge hound may possess an easygoing, patient and friendly nature that makes them a joy to live with, but when it comes to shedding, their fur isn’t quite as low maintenance as their personality. 

On any of the small dog breeds, the Great Danes coat would be an absolute dream. Short and smooth, hair loss is most profuse during the two annual shedding seasons that fall during spring and autumn, with a light amount of fur being lost the rest of the year.

Yet, as you well know, the Great Dane is no small dog. Reaching heights of up to 32-inches and with a body weight that can tip the scales at 120 pounds, this mammoth mutt may have what appears to be an easy to care for coat, but the sheer size of them means that even as light to moderate shedders, you can expect a fair amount of fur.

Thankfully, a good grooming session once or twice a week will be enough to keep all that flying fur to a minimum. Alongside that, investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair can be a real lifesaver if you want to make quick work of cleaning up all of that dead hair. 

Below, we walk you through everything you need to know about the shedding patterns of the Great Dane, including what can cause them to shed excessively, how best to groom them to keep their coat healthy, and our top tips on how you can minimize shedding to make keeping your home clean that much easier. 

Do Great Danes shed?

If you’re thinking of welcoming a Great Dane into your family, you can breathe a sigh of relief because this pup certainly isn’t the worst shedder in the canine kingdom. They’re not fluffy and they don’t have a heavy undercoat, but their sheer size means you’ll still want to be prepared to find a fair amount of fur on your floors.

You’ll find that the Great Dane sheds all year round, but the heaviest shedding occurs in the spring and autumn. This is when their coat performs its biological function of getting rid of all the dead and damaged hair to make way for new growth. Outside of the two peak shedding seasons, expect light to moderate hair loss throughout the rest of the year. 

What causes the Great Dane to shed the most?

There’s no denying it - having to be on fur pickup patrol every day is one of the downsides of being a pet parent. But it’s important to remember that shedding serves an important function, helping to regulate your pup’s body temperature across the seasons and ensuring that their skin stays protected from injury and disease.

When it comes to shedding, there are two types - natural and unnatural. Natural shedding is when your dog’s coat performs its normal biological function. This means that the hair goes through a regular growth cycle, falling away when it’s dead or damaged to make way for new healthy hair.

Unnatural shedding, on the other hand, typically occurs when there’s an underlying health problem and it’s this type of shedding that you want to be on the lookout for. There are many potential causes of atypical shedding, but the most common include:

• Allergies - Excessive shedding is a sign that your dog’s skin is in distress and food or environment allergies could be to blame. Canine allergies often show up in the skin and itchiness, swelling and irritation are all common symptoms. Your dog will often try to alleviate these by licking and scratching, which can cause their hair to fall out.
• An imbalanced diet - Choosing from amongst the best dog food brands is super important when it comes to ensuring your pup is getting all of the vitamins and minerals they need to thrive. While you don’t have to spend a fortune, try to stay clear of the really inexpensive options as these tend to be low in protein and lack the nutrients the skin and coat need to stay healthy.
• Stress - Whether it’s a major change in their usual routine or a new person or pet in the family, both stress and anxiety can cause excessive shedding.
• Skin parasites - If you notice that your pet is itching and scratching a lot and this is accompanied by an increase in shedding, fleas, ticks or mites could be to blame. Make sure you always use the best flea treatment for dogs to keep your pup protected from pesky parasites.
• Hormonal imbalance - Certain thyroid imbalances, such as hypothyroidism or Cushing's disease in dogs can result in clumps of hair falling out. Excessive shedding can also occur during pregnancy when normal hormone levels are disrupted or when there’s an imbalance of estrogen, testosterone and progesterone.

If you feel that your Great Dane is shedding more than usual and you’re concerned that one of the above causes may be the reason, make an appointment with your vet who will be able to give your pup a thorough examination and offer advice and guidance on the best course of action. 

How to groom your Great Dane

Regular grooming sessions aren’t just about keeping your Great Danes coat looking its best - although that’s certainly a bonus! While grooming can help keep your pup’s fur soft and shiny, it also prevents the skin from becoming dry, which means there’s less dead hair being shed.

When it comes to grooming, the most important tool to invest in is one of the best dog brushes. Because a Great Dane doesn’t have a complicated undercoat to deal with, a bristle brush or rubber hand mitt is really all you’ll need to get the job done. 

You can brush your canine companion as often as you’d like, but in terms of shedding, for most of the year, once a week is typically all that’s needed to keep that flying fur to a minimum. We recommend you step this up to once a day during peak shedding season to keep on top of things. 

When it comes to bathing, Great Danes do have a tendency to suffer from dry skin, so unless they’re particularly dirty or smelly, lathering them up once every six to eight weeks with the best dog shampoo will be enough to ensure their coat stays healthy. 

Tips to minimize Great Dane shedding

While there’s no miracle fix that will put an end to shedding all together, there are plenty of things you can do to help minimize it. Here are a few ways to reduce shedding:

• Regular brushing - As we’ve seen, weekly grooming sessions with a bristle brush or rubber hand mitt is one of the most effective things you can do when it comes to reducing the amount of fur that falls onto the floor. With the Great Danes coat being short, it’s also a fairly quick and easy process.
• Proper bathing - Overbathing can cause hair loss, but that’s not the only issue to be aware of. When you bathe your pup, make sure you steer clear of human shampoos, which are too harsh for our canine companions and can cause dryness and irritation, and opt for a shampoo that’s been specifically formulated for dogs. If your fur friend has dry skin, look for nourishing ingredients, such as oatmeal, coconut oil and shea butter.
• A healthy diet - Whether it’s the best dry dog food or a wet alternative, feeding your pup a high-quality formula will ensure their body is getting all the nutrients it needs to stay healthy.
• Supplements for the skin and coat - If you feel your dog’s excessive shedding is the result of a deficiency in their diet, have a chat to your vet who may recommend you add a chewable or liquid supplement to their diet containing skin and coat-friendly omega oils to help promote hair health.
• Adequate hydration - Just as diet is an important consideration when it comes to minimizing shedding, so too is ensuring your pup is getting enough fluid to stay hydrated. Water is extremely important for nourishing the skin and coat, so be sure to encourage your fur friend to drink up.

Following the above tips will help ensure your dog’s coat stays healthy and assist in minimizing shedding. If you find that you’re doing all of the things on this list and your pup still seems to be losing their hair at an abnormal rate, speak to your vet who will be able to give your canine companion a thorough check up to rule out any underlying medical issues. 

Want to learn more about this giant breed? Here are our favorite Great Dane facts

Buying one of the best dog conditioners may feel like an extravagance, especially when you’ve got a thousand other things to consider. But, as well as helping pooches to look their best, a good conditioner can be a time-saver and provide some real health benefits too. It can also make your dog’s coat shinier and easier to manage, according to expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

Indeed, when combined with the best dog shampoo, you’ll discover that a conditioner makes a canine’s coat look gorgeously shiny while helping to prevent or restore dry and itchy skin. A dog conditioner also allows natural oils to be produced so that any dirt simply slips away and, by preventing the hair from matting and tangling, conditioners help avoid potential sores and infections.

To that end, then, a conditioner should form part of a solid grooming routine, making it a great addition to the best dog grooming kit or best dog nail files. So let’s take a look at our pick of the best dog conditioners on the market today with comments from Dr Diana Hasler, and advice from Dr MacMillan on how best to use them.

The best dog conditioners we recommend in 2026

How we chose the best dog conditioner

When selecting the best dog conditioners, we looked carefully at the ingredients. Manuka honey, shea butter, chamomile, oatmeal or aloe vera are nourishing and great for dry, itchy or flakey skin, for example, but any conditioner that is naturally derived and free from parabens, artificial colors and fragrances would likely get a thumbs up.

We also took different coat and skin types into consideration to ensure there would be a conditioner suitable for all breeds while checking a bottle’s volume to assess whether a product is value for money.

Does hair type make a difference?

Choosing a conditioner that's been tailored to meet a dog’s specific needs will ensure their coat stays soft, shiny and in perfect health. Short hair requires less moisture due to its length and structure, for instance, so avoid heavy oil formulas and opt for a lighter conditioner containing silk proteins to keep the coat looking its best without becoming greasy.

Longer-haired breeds will need a more nourishing conditioner because the hair strands will be older meaning the hair is more likely to become porous and dry. A conditioner containing rich oils will easily tackle this.

“Check the manufacturer's recommendations as to whether it is suitable for your dog’s coat type or not,” says expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

What should I do if my dog has sensitive skin?

If your dog has sensitive skin, it’s important to look closely at what a conditioner contains.

“Choose one with natural ingredients like coconut oil, aloe vera, and rolled oats. These are great for dogs and can be quite soothing especially if your dog has sensitive skin,” Dr MacMillan says, although warning against thinking a conditioner always works like magic.

“If your dog has particularly sensitive skin or has diagnosed skin issues, then you may need to discuss the product with your vet first,” Dr MacMillan adds.

How often should I bathe my dog?

There’s no single answer because there are many factors to take into consideration. Longer-haired dogs will need bathing more than short-haired ones. Dirty dogs will need a bath more urgently than clean ones. And dogs with skin conditions may need less frequent washing depending on the condition. By and large, though, less is more.

“You shouldn’t bathe your dog too often as it can strip the natural oils from their coat and could irritate their skin,” says Dr MacMillan. “If you use a topical parasite product on your pet, then frequent bathing could also dilute its effectiveness. Most dogs only require a bath with shampoo when they are particularly dirty or smelly unless your vet has recommended otherwise.”

Here’s more advice on how to give a dog a bath.

Can I use a human conditioner on my dog?

It’s tempting to just use the conditioner that you already have lying around the house but Dr MacMillan warns against this.

“Avoid using human conditioners on your dog because these are designed for the pH of human skin rather than pets,” she says. “While some dogs can tolerate them, they could cause skin irritation in others.” This is especially true if they have skin allergies.

What else should I avoid?

Dr MacMillan says you should also avoid products that are too heavily scented.

“While these might smell great to us, they may be unpleasant for your dog and their sensitive nose,” she explains. “And if your dog has topical flea treatment, then you should not bathe them too frequently because it can affect how well the product works. Discuss a tablet alternative with your vet if your dog does need frequent washing.”

Here’s our guide to the best flea treatments for dogs if you’re unsure.

Is conditioner always the answer to a dull dog coat?

Short answer? No. A dull coat can be a symptom of “underlying health conditions, a poor diet, or a lack of appropriate grooming” says Dr MacMillan. So while dog conditioner is a great way to spruce up a coat and ensure a healthy coat remains that way, it’s not a miracle cure.

“Never hesitate to speak to your vet about your dog’s coat quality rather than heading to your own bathroom cabinet.” says our expert vet, and if no obvious causes can be found then she recommends “a dog-specific supplement rich in omega-3 fatty acids” like this Zesty Paws option available on Amazon.

With the best dog nail clippers, you’ll be able to pamper your pooch’s paws while ensuring your pet remains in good health. While your dog may not be a fan, keeping their nails trimmed is crucial to their health and happiness. Overgrown nails can affect their ability to walk and broken nails can be painful and lead to more problems down the line.

In this guide, we’ve gathered together a variety of clippers that would be worthy of a spot in any of the best dog grooming kits. So long as you know how to clip a dog's nails, you’ll find you can use these products with confidence whether you’re a beginner or an experienced groomer.

They include both plier-style and guillotine-style clippers, although it’s also worth considering the best nail grinders for pets if you find your dog is running for cover the minute you try and groom them. One thing’s for sure, you do need the best dog nail clippers to hand for your pooch.

“If you decide to clip your dog’s nails at home – which isn’t a bad idea if you feel capable because it means less frequent visits to the vet or groomer – it’s important to choose the right clipper style for your dog,” affirms expert vet Dr. Hannah Godfrey. So let’s take a look at the best dog nail clippers on the market today.

Best dog nail clippers 2026

How we chose the best dog nail clippers

When testing the best dog nail clippers, we were mindful that it’s not a case of one size suiting all. But, in general, we looked out for safety guards, a clipper’s ability to cut cleanly and how easy they are to control. We assessed how comfortable they are to hold and whether they were difficult to squeeze. We also paid attention to the materials used – clippers need to be sturdy and those made from stainless steel tend to fare better.

When should I begin clipping a dog’s nails?

The earlier the better. The hope is that your dog will stay calm and comfortable when clipping their nails and getting them used to trimming from an early age should help. If it isn’t possible to start clipping during the puppy stage – perhaps you have a rescue dog, for instance – then just start whenever you can. Using positive reinforcement such as biscuits after a quick clip can help to train reluctant dogs into allowing you to trim their nails.

What type of clippers should I choose?

Your choice is going to be dependent on your pooch.

“Consider your dog’s temperament – are they patient and tolerant, skittish, or restless and always on the move?,” affirms expert vet Dr Hannah Godfrey. “If they’re likely to try to bolt and make nail clipping into a bit of a struggle, it’s probably not a good idea to choose nail grinders or files, as these can take a long time.”

Instead, scissor-style clippers, also known as pliers, are a good choice for larger breeds and dogs with thick nails. Squeeze the handles together, and the blade will cut off the end of the nail. These often feature a safety stop so you don’t cut too far down and the nail also remains visible, which offers great peace of mind if you’re an inexperienced groomer.

Guillotine-style clippers are a good choice for small and medium-sized dogs because little nails can fit easily into the hole where the tip of the nail is gently sliced off. With no safety stop feature, it can be easy to take off too much of the nail and injure your dog, however, so these are best used by experienced home groomers.

Nail grinders or files do have their place, however.

“If your dog loves nothing better than a cuddle on the couch with you, you might find plenty of time to work away on their nails with a dog nail file,” Dr Godfrey adds.

Just be aware that accidents can still happen, but you are less likely to expose the 'quick' or blood vessel area of the nail. Grinders are also ideal for creating a smooth round edge but you may need to desensitize your dog to the sound. You could opt to use clippers first and then smooth it out with one of the best dog nail files.

Can you use human nail clippers on dogs?

No – human nail clippers are the wrong size and shape for clipping a dog's nails. If you attempt to use human nail clippers, you are likely to scare, or injure your dog.

What size clippers do I need?

As we’ve said, one size doesn’t suit all so choosing the correct size of clippers is important. Small dogs tend to have thinner nails which are easier to cut yet they also have small paws making cutting more difficult. Larger breeds have thicker or longer nails that are more difficult to cut yet they have larger paws so cutting feels less fiddly.

To that end, go for smaller clippers for smaller dogs and larger clippers for larger dogs.

“Too small, and you’ll struggle to cut through the entire nail in one go, but too big and you won’t have much control and could damage the surrounding skin, pad, or nail bed,” says Dr Godfrey.

Are clippers or grinders best for dogs who are sensitive to noise?

You may have to experiment a little here because no cutting method can avoid making noise. “Neither nail grinders nor clippers are silent, sadly,” says Dr Godfrey. “But your dog may be more reactive to the louder ‘crack’ associated with nail clippers."

Will my clippers last?

You would hope so but the answer to this question depends on the clipper’s quality. Inexpensive options often have blades which dull relatively quickly meaning you'll need to replace them. It’s usually better to go for a higher-quality option but they can be more expensive.

Read now: Why do dogs bite their nails?

Do German Shepherds shed? It’s a question that often gets asked by those looking to adopt one of the most popular dogs in the world and the answer is a resounding yes. In fact, not only do they shed, but they do so profusely, so that’s something worth considering before welcoming one of these fur balls into your family.

The German Shepherd is one of the most courageous, confident and intelligent breeds on the planet and while their unrivaled loyalty means they won’t hesitate to put their life on the line for those they love, they also make for wonderfully gentle family pets and steadfast guardians. No wonder they’re so beloved.

But there is certainly a downside to owning one of these protective pups and that’s the copious amounts of fur that flies off them year-round. You’ll definitely want to arm yourself with the best vacuum cleaner for pet hair if you’re going to have one of these dogs in your home.

Thankfully, regular grooming sessions and an understanding of the various things that can influence the frequency and degree of shedding can help you keep the molting to a minimum. 

Below, we reveal everything you need to know to ensure your Germans Shepherds coat stays healthy and your home as fur-free as possible.

• Do Cane Corsos shed?
• Do French Bulldogs shed? 

Do German Shepherds shed?

If you have your heart set on a German Shepherd, be prepared for plenty of dog hair. Classified as medium to heavy shedders, this breed has a double coat with the outer coat being incredibly dense. 

Unlike some dogs that either shed minimally or only shed heavily twice a year, the German Shepherd is a continuous shedder as well as losing their undercoat in the spring and fall. The spring shedding gets rid of the thick undercoat so they don’t overheat in the summer, while the fall shedding gets rid of the outer coat to help prepare this breed for colder weather.

Many pet parents are surprised by both the volume and frequency of shedding that goes on with a German Shepherd, so if you’re on the fence about fur, it’s worth spending some time with someone who owns one of these dogs to get an idea of exactly what you’re in for. 

What causes the German Shepherd to shed the most?

While it can certainly be annoying to be constantly picking up dog hair all over the place, shedding serves an important purpose for pups. Not only does it help to regulate body temperature across the various seasons but it also helps with sensory perception and protects the skin from injury and disease.

When it comes to shedding, it can be helpful to think of it as occurring as two different types: natural and unnatural. Natural shedding is where the hair goes through its normal growth cycle with old or damaged hair regularly falling away to make way for new hair. You’ll see an increase in natural shedding with the German Shepherd in the spring and fall to prepare for seasonal changes in temperature.

Unnatural shedding is what you want to be on the lookout for as this can often signal an underlying health problem that requires veterinary attention. Atypical fur loss can be caused by the following:

• Poor diet: Ensuring your pup gets a nutritious and balanced diet is vital for keeping their skin and coat in tip-top condition. Ideally, you want to invest in one of the best dog food brands so that your dog is getting everything they need for optimal health. Look for a kibble that has plenty of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids as these do a brilliant job of promoting coat health. 
• Stress: It’s a well known fact that German Shepherds tend to get more stressed and anxious than other breeds and that’s due to their high activity levels. When they’re not getting enough mental and physical stimulation, their health can begin to suffer and this can often lead to a loss of additional fur.
• Dehydration: If you find your pup isn’t drinking as much as they should be, it’s well worth investing in one of the best pet water fountains to encourage them to drink up. Dehydration compromises healthy blood flow and oxygen delivery to the skin, which causes it to lose its elasticity, resulting in hair loss.
• Fleas, ticks and lice: One thing that will affect your German Shepherds coat big time is an invasion of pesky parasites. These blood-sucking little beasts will make your dog want to itch and scratch 24/7, damaging the skin and fur. To prevent the wide range of health issues that parasites can cause, be sure to regularly apply the best flea treatment for dogs. 
• Health conditions: There are also various health conditions that can cause excessive shedding in dogs, such as Cushing's Disease and hypothyroidism. Allergies can also trigger skin flare ups and cause the hair to fall out.  

While you’re always going to have plenty of natural hair loss with a German Shepherd, baring the above points in mind will help you to understand when it might be becoming excessive so you can seek advice from your veterinarian. 

How to groom your German Shepherd

Good fur grooming is a must when it comes to having a German Shepherd as not only will this keep their skin and coat looking its best, but it will help keep that shedding a bit more manageable.

We recommend you invest in several of the best dog brushes to make the task of grooming that much easier, including a de-shedding tool to remove the loose, dead undercoat without cutting or damaging the topcoat. 

You can use a de-shedding tool on its own for routine brushing, but you might also like to finish off your grooming session with a slicker brush to catch any final bits of dead hair and to give your dog’s coat a nice shine. 

When it comes to bathing, it’s advised to keep this to a minimum with German Shepherds as regular bathing strips the skin and coat of its natural oils, which can often lead to more shedding. Unless they get super dirty, most experts agree that a twice a year dip in the tub is sufficient. 

Tips to minimize German Shepherd shedding

While you can expect moderate to heavy shedding year round with a German Shepherd, there are some things you can do to help make all that flying fur a bit more manageable to keep on top of. Here are our favorite tips:

• Regular brushing: Giving your pup a thorough brushing each day will help to remove all the dead and loose hair and will mean there’s far less of it for you to pick up around your home.
• A healthy diet: Feeding your dog the best dry dog food will ensure their coat is getting all the vitamins and minerals it needs to stay healthy. Some brands do breed-specific formulas, so this is well worth looking into.
• Supplements: If you’re worried that your pup may not be getting everything they need for optimal coat health, have a chat to your vet and see whether adding in a chewable or liquid supplement containing omega oils might be helpful. 
• The right dog shampoo: You’ll want to keep bathing to a minimum to protect your canine companions skin and coat, but when they do need to go in the tub, choose a dog shampoo that’s been formulated with soothing ingredients such as oatmeal and coconut oil as these will help nourish the fur and keep it in tip-top condition. 

Following the above tips will help ensure your German Shepherd’s coat stays in tip-top condition while also minimizing the amount of fur that ends up all over your floors. 

And if you’re at all concerned about the amount of fur your pup is shedding, speak to your vet, who will be able to rule out any underlying health conditions and offer helpful advice and guidance. 

Does your dog get red and itchy after every bath? If so, it’s possible that your dog has a shampoo allergy.  

Although true shampoo allergies are uncommon, they can occur and they can be tricky to manage. Some dogs don’t have a true shampoo allergy but are simply irritated by residual shampoo left on their skin after a bath, so it’s important to rinse your dog thoroughly after every bath and ensure that all shampoo is washed away.  

For pups that do have shampoo allergies, finding the right dog shampoo that doesn’t cause a reaction can be a bit of a trial and error process, and you may need to take some other steps to manage your dog’s allergies as well.  

Read on to learn more about shampoo allergies in dogs and what you can do to help your dog’s skin.

•  Common allergies in dogs and what you can do about them

Can shampoos cause allergic reactions? 

Yes, shampoos can cause allergic reactions in dogs. Dogs can experience allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), a delayed hypersensitivity reaction that occurs after repeat exposure to an allergen.  

However, dogs can also experience irritant contact dermatitis (ICD), a non-specific inflammatory reaction that occurs following direct contact with an irritating substance.  

Both ACD and ICD can occur as reactions to shampoo, and it can be difficult to differentiate one from the other. For simplicity’s sake, in this article we will refer to shampoo allergies, but please keep in mind that your dog’s reaction may not be a true allergy, but rather an irritant reaction, which is treated differently.   

Dog shampoo allergy symptoms 

If your dog has an allergy to shampoo, one of the first things you will notice is that your dog has a reaction soon after bathing.  

With a true shampoo allergy, this reaction typically occurs first in hairless or sparsely haired regions of the body such as the abdomen, the axillae (armpits), the inguinal regions (groin), underneath the neck, under the tail, the scrotum, the perianal region, the muzzle, and the pinnae (external ears).  

You may notice red, blotchy areas at first.  With chronic exposure, thickening of the skin, hair loss, and hyperpigmentation can occur.  Scaling or crusting may also be present, and your dog may or may not be itchy.  

If you notice any of these symptoms or any other changes in your dog’s skin, a visit to your veterinarian is in order. 

Diagnosis of shampoo allergies in dogs 

If you’ve noticed changes in your dog’s skin, the first step is a visit to your veterinarian for an examination. Be sure to tell your veterinarian if these changes have been occurring in relation to bathing or shampooing your dog, as this can help your veterinarian diagnose a shampoo allergy. 

 Your veterinarian will perform a full physical examination on your dog, including close examination of your dog’s skin.  Because many skin conditions can present with similar symptoms, your veterinarian may recommend additional diagnostic testing such as a skin scraping to look for parasites or taking samples to check for skin infections.  

Your veterinarian may also prescribe medicated shampoo for you to try with your dog. It may take some trial and error to find a shampoo that works best for your dog and does not cause a reaction.

What to do if your dog reacts badly to shampoo 

Thoroughly rinse away product

If your dog reacts badly to shampoo, the first step is to rinse away all of the previous shampoo product as thoroughly as possible.  

This is especially important if you have bathed your dog in the past few days. Unfortunately, finding a shampoo product that your dog can tolerate will be a bit of trial and error, as there is no test that can tell us what products will work best for your dog.  

Consider a human baby shampoo test

Wait until your dog’s skin issues have resolved before you try bathing your dog again, so you’ll know if your dog has a reaction to the new shampoo.

Many allergic dogs tolerate human baby shampoo well, so this is a good starting point for many pet owners. 

Be sure to rinse the shampoo thoroughly as any shampoo left on your dog’s skin may cause irritation, which could be mistaken for allergy.  After bathing, dry your dog well to reduce the risk of skin infections.

Consult with your vet

Your veterinarian can also prescribe a medicated shampoo which may help reduce your dog’s allergy symptoms. 

These shampoos often contain medications such as antimicrobials, antifungals, and mild steroids to help eliminate infections and reduce inflammation. 

Medicated shampoos designed to calm and soothe the skin are also available, and may work well for dogs with shampoo allergies.

Try hypoallergenic soap free as a last resort

Some dogs simply cannot tolerate any shampoo. If this is the case for your dog, and you still need to bathe your dog regularly, try using hypoallergenic soap free products intended for humans.  

This is a last resort to allow you to still bathe your dog without resorting to shampoos that make your dog itchy and uncomfortable.

How to help a dog with skin allergies 

Many dogs with allergies to shampoo also have other skin allergies.  Like humans, dogs can be allergic to certain foods, to environmental allergens such as pollens, grasses, or dust mites, or to a combination of foods and environmental allergens.  

To address your dog’s allergies, the first step is getting them properly diagnosed by your veterinarian.  

Do not waste your money on over the counter “allergy tests” that use hair or saliva samples to test your dog for allergies – these tests are not accurate!  Environmental allergies can be diagnosed via blood test through your veterinarian, but there is no reliable test for food allergies except for performing an elimination diet trial with a hypoallergenic diet.  

Your veterinarian can help you with this process to properly diagnose your dog with food allergies if this is a concern for your dog.  If possible, eliminating the allergen(s) to which your dog reacts will help reduce your dog’s allergy flare-ups and associated symptoms.

Many allergic dogs improve with medication. Your veterinarian can prescribe oral or injectable allergy medications for your dog to help relieve itching and improve the symptoms of allergies.  

Many dogs also experience secondary skin infections as a result of allergies, so antibiotics or topical antimicrobials may be necessary.  Your veterinarian is your best resource for medications and guidance on the best products to help manage your dog’s skin allergies.

Knowing how to moisturize your dog’s skin is one of those often overlooked parts of being a pet parent, but it’s an important part of maintaining your canine companion’s overall health and wellbeing. 

While a good dog shampoo does a wonderful job of keeping your pup’s fur clean and fresh, learning different ways to moisturize their skin will ensure that it stays smooth and hydrated.

It’s easy to think that after lathering your bundle of fur up with shampoo that following up with dog conditioner would help add moisture back into your dog’s skin and coat. But while soothing formulas containing ingredients such as oatmeal and coconut oil can certainly help relieve some of the itchiness and discomfort that dry skin can cause, finding regular ways to moisturize is the only way to keep your furkid’s skin looking and feeling its best. 

Dry skin on dogs is a fairly common condition that can result in dandruff, hair loss and flaky skin that may cover the entire body. It can be caused by allergies and hormonal conditions as well as seasonal changes when air conditioning in the summer and heating in the winter can cause the skin to lose moisture. This is when learning ways to rehydrate your dog's skin can come in handy.

It’s important that you don’t just apply any old moisturizer though as many popular human products contain harmful chemicals and other ingredients that can be toxic for dogs if they’re ingested. The good news is, there are plenty of dog-safe moisturizers on the market that are soothing, nourishing and will have your canine companion’s skin back to peak condition in no time.

Below, we walk you through how to moisturize your dog’s skin, including some of the main factors that contribute to dry skin and our favorite remedies for giving dry and flaky skin the flick once and for all. And if you’re finding that the dryness is solely relegated to your pup’s paw pads and not the rest of their body, check out our guide natural ways to moisturize dog paws for some tootsie-specific tips.

• Skin allergies in dogs: Vet's guide to signs and treatment
• Nine tips for coping with allergic pets

Does my dog need moisturizer?

While a lot of us human folk have a daily moisturizing routine, regularly slathering lotion all over your dog isn’t going to be necessary unless they suffer from dry skin and the unpleasant side effects that often come with it. Conditioning your dog’s skin can bring with it a great deal of relief, but it’s also important to address the underlying causes of why their skin has become dry in the first place. 

Why does my dog have dry skin?

It can be tricky to diagnose the exact cause of your dog’s dry skin because of the number of potential issues that could be triggering it, but here are some of the most common:

1. Diet

Taking a look at your dog’s diet is a good place to start when you’re trying to narrow down the potential causes of their dry skin. An imbalance of essential fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6) or a lack of protein are two diet-related issues that can cause the skin to become itchy and flaky. 

Grains and other ingredients, such as wheat, corn, soy, milk and eggs, have also been found to trigger allergic reactions in some dogs that manifest as skin issues. If you think your dog’s current diet might be to blame, check out our guide to the best dog food for allergies for our favorite skin-friendly formulas. 

2. Too many baths

How often should I bathe my dog is a common question amongst pet parents and the answer is that it depends. Active dogs who are more prone to getting dirty or larger dogs with long hair will need bathing more frequently than thin-haired breeds and those that spend most of their time indoors. 

But, the rule of thumb is to try to keep bathing to a once a month affair. The reason for this is that over-bathing your dog is likely to strip the skin of its natural oils, which is one way that it can become dry and flaky. 

3. Dry air

If you’ve ever spent long periods in an air conditioned or heated room, then you likely know what it’s like to have your skin dry out. The same is true for our canine companions whose skin is also affected by seasonal changes in temperature, both indoors and outdoors. 

If you live in an area where the humidity tends to be low, you may find it helpful to invest in a humidifier, which will help add moisture back into the air which may be enough to combat your dog’s dry skin. 

4. Allergies

Alongside possible food allergies, your pup may also suffer from seasonal or environmental allergies that can trigger dry skin. Things like pollen, dust, grass, grain, animal dander and flea saliva are all common culprits. 

The latter can also cause a condition known as flea allergy dermatitis, which can cause itchiness, redness, and inflammation. The best way to prevent this is to ensure your pup is protected from pesky parasites with one of the best flea treatment for dogs.

5. Health issues

Bacterial and fungal infections, such as ringworm, are well known to cause dry skin in dogs. If your dog has a metabolic disease, such as hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease, or an autoimmune illness, you may also find dry skin to be a common side effect. 

6. Their breed

Finally, some breeds are just genetically more predisposed to skin conditions than others. Hairless dog breeds, such as the Chinese Crested, can struggle with a number of skin-related issues, and larger double-coated breeds, like the Siberian Husky and Alaskan Malamute, can develop a condition known as zinc-responsive dermatosis that can interfere with normal skin cell development.

How to moisturize your dog’s skin: 7 simple remedies

There are lots of different ways you can add moisture back into your dog’s skin and it’s important to remember that this is very much a process that starts from the inside out. With that in mind, here are a few internal and external remedies to get your pup’s skin looking its best: 

1. Feed them a good diet

The best dog food is complete and balanced, containing everything your canine companion needs to stay happy and healthy. But some formulas will contain more of some things than others and when it comes to dry skin, it’s crucial to look for a wet or dry dog food that contains an abundance of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. These do a beautiful job of nourishing the skin and contributing to its overall health. 

2. Add extra oils if necessary

If you feel that your dog isn’t getting enough fatty acids in their diet, speak to your vet about supplementing with salmon, krill or coconut oil, which can be added to your pups meals to give them an extra boost. Your vet will be able to advise you on the correct dosage, as too much oil can cause digestive disturbances.

3. Make sure your pup is drinking enough water

Just like with us humans, water is essential for keeping the body functioning at its best and it’s also essential for adding moisture to the skin. If you’re worried your dog isn’t getting sufficient hydration, consider investing in one of the best pet water fountains to encourage them to drink more.

4. Use products designed for dry skin

While we recommend you avoid bathing your dog too frequently, when you do lather your pup up, stick to a nourishing shampoo and conditioner that use ingredients such as oatmeal, shea butter, coconut oil and aloe vera, all of which are designed to add moisture back into the skin. 

5. Try coconut oil

While we’ve mentioned adding coconut oil to your dog’s food in appropriate doses, this miracle oil can also be used externally, with many pet parents reporting great results when it comes to getting rid of dry and flaky skin and relieving inflammation and itchiness. Apply to your dog’s coat, being sure to rub it into the skin. 

6. Keep an eye on the weather 

This goes for both indoors and outdoors. A dog’s skin is particularly sensitive to extreme changes in temperature, when the air in the home or outside is too cold or too hot. 

Low humidity is particularly problematic, so investing in a humidifier is well worth it if you find that this tends to trigger dry skin in your dog as these help put moisture back into the air - super important if your dog spends a lot of time in heated or air conditioned rooms. 

7. Regular grooming

One of the easiest ways to keep your canine companion’s skin in tip-top condition is to engage in regular grooming sessions using a good dog brush. We recommend you brush your pup at least once a week (more is preferable!) as this will help distribute the natural oils in your dog’s coat as well as removing dead hair and old skin cells.

Can you use baby shampoo for dogs? It’s a question you may have found yourself asking if your canine companion has come in all muddy after a walk and all you have to hand to get them clean is baby shampoo. While not ideal, a one-off bath with baby shampoo is unlikely to do your dog any harm.

Bath time has the potential to be a wonderful experience or an awful one for you and your pup depending on your dog’s preferences, how you wash them and whether what you use soothes or exacerbates any skin issues they have. That’s why we always recommend you learn how to give a dog a bath and take some time to understand what products are suitable for your dog’s unique skin and coat needs.

If you don’t have any of the best dog shampoo to hand and your pup doesn’t have a skin condition, then resorting to baby shampoo in a muddy emergency is perfectly safe. But it’s important that you don’t use human shampoo to wash your dog on a regular basis as these formulas are too harsh for your pup and will strip away the natural oils their skin needs to stay healthy.

Below, Dr. Catherine Barnette goes into more detail around why vets don’t recommend human-grade shampoos for use on dogs, signs you’re using the wrong shampoo for your pup’s skin and coat needs, and her favorite tips for bathing your dog. 

Is human shampoo safe for dogs?

While the shampoo that you use to wash your hair with might seem like a gentle and appealing option for your dog, human shampoo can actually be damaging to their coat and skin if used regularly. There are several critical differences between dog skin and human skin; these differences mean that the two species require different types of shampoo for the best results. 

Human skin and canine skin differ significantly in pH (acidity). Sources vary, but human skin is acidic, with a pH of 4 to 6.0. Dogs, in contrast, have more alkaline (or basic) skin than this. Human shampoos are pH-balanced to work well on our acidic skin, while canine shampoos are pH-balanced for alkaline skin. Therefore, using human shampoo on your dog could negatively impact the pH of your dog's skin, leading to problems.

Dogs also have small amounts of natural oils in their coat, which keep their fur shiny and protect against potentially harmful bacteria and other microbes. Most human shampoos will strip these oils from your dog's coat. Human shampoos are designed to remove the large amounts of grease from our hair, so this will have quite a drying effect on your dog’s skin and coat.

Human shampoos also tend to be quite heavily perfumed, which could irritate your pet’s skin and overwhelm their sensitive sense of smell. 

Is baby shampoo safe for dogs?

Baby shampoos are often considered to be gentler than other human shampoos because they contain fewer ingredients and minimal perfumes. However, they are still intended for human skin, so they have an acidic pH. 

Therefore, even baby shampoo can be harsher than high-quality dog shampoo on a dog's skin. On the other hand, baby shampoo should be safe for one-off use in an emergency, but avoid using it repeatedly.

Safe dog shampoo alternatives

Sometimes, you may really need to bathe your dog, but you don't have any dog shampoo to hand. So, what safe alternatives are there?

1. Baby shampoo

In an emergency, baby shampoo is unlikely to cause immediate pain or skin trauma for your dog. For example, if your dog rolls in something disgusting in your backyard and you don’t have any dog shampoo available, a single bath in baby shampoo is unlikely to do any damage.

You shouldn’t make a habit out of it, though, so it would be best to stock up on some dog-specific alternatives for next time. 

2. Chemical-free human shampoo

But what about if you don’t have dog shampoo or baby shampoo to hand? Other human shampoos are also fine for a one-off use, but try to choose one with as few chemicals as possible. 

You should also avoid strong fragrances, which are often too strong for your dog's powerful nose. And remember to get some dog-specific shampoo as soon as possible so that you don't dry your dog's skin or cause other negative effects.

3. Dish soap

Another option for a one-off dog shampoo alternative is dish soap. The pH of dish soap is a lot higher than shampoos and soaps designed for human skin. This means that dish soap is much closer to the pH of dog skin and can make a good emergency substitute for dog shampoo.

Don't use it too regularly, though – it's harsh and contains no conditioners, meaning it'll strip your dog's skin oils, leaving them itchy or sore. Try to choose a dish soap with as few fragrances and added chemicals as possible. 

The 'original' version is likely to be better for your dog's skin than the one with added foaming degreasing power or rinse aid! After all, you're washing your dog, not your dirty pots and pans!

Will baby shampoo kill fleas on dogs?

Any shampoo, including baby shampoo, can reduce flea numbers on your dog. Creating a lather and allowing it to sit on your dog for several minutes can effectively drown or suffocate fleas. When you rinse your dog, these dead fleas will also wash off. 

While this may seem like a good idea, it is not a very effective method for dealing with a flea problem. As soon as your dog returns to your home or yard, new fleas will jump onto them. Sadly, it takes more than a bath to break the flea life cycle! Bathing your dog does not provide any residual benefits. Instead, talk to your veterinarian about a prescription flea preventative for your dog. 

These treatments, which are often given year-round, will treat your dog’s current flea infestation while also preventing reinfestation. There are several flea preventatives available. Your veterinarian can help you choose the best one for your dog depending on your budget, their lifestyle, and whether you find tablets or spot-on treatments easier to give. You can also check out our guide to the best flea treatment for dogs where we outline the most reputable products currently available.

Choosing the best shampoo for your dog

Choosing the best shampoo for your dog

When bathing your dog, the most important thing is to use a shampoo that has been specifically developed for dogs. Suppose your dog has a specific skin condition, like allergies or seborrheic dermatitis.

 In that case, your veterinarian may recommend a prescription shampoo that is specifically formulated to treat or prevent that skin disease. However, for most healthy dogs, any over-the-counter dog shampoo can be a good option for routine bathing. 

Dog bathing tips

1. Avoid bathing too frequently

How often should I bathe my dog is a common question amongst pet parents and the good news is, you don't need to wash your dog anywhere near as often as you wash yourself!

Your dog’s skin produces far less oil than human skin, so they only need to be bathed when they become smelly or dirty. Monthly bathing is a good starting point for most dogs, although you may find that your dog needs to be bathed more or less often, depending on their coat type and lifestyle.

Unless specifically instructed by your veterinarian, do not bathe your dog more frequently than once every other week.

2. Make bathtime an enjoyable experience

You will be bathing your dog approximately once a month for the remainder of your dog’s life, so it’s best to make bath time as enjoyable as possible for them. Give your pup a few of the best dog treats during bath time to help them develop a positive mental association with it.

If you bathe your dog in a sink or bathtub, consider smearing some peanut butter along the edges. (Avoid sugar-free peanut butter because it may contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs.) Many dogs love the taste of peanut butter, so they’ll often stand still while licking it off the sides of the bath!

Keep water out of your dog’s ears and eyes during baths, and make sure the water is not too deep. Remember that they could easily slip or try to jump out, and any negative experiences could make them more fearful next time, so keep a close eye.

3. Rinse your dog thoroughly 

You should always rinse your dog thoroughly after bathing. Even a high-quality dog shampoo can irritate the skin if it is not rinsed out. Therefore, it's essential to take the time to thoroughly remove all shampoo residue from the skin. Take care not to get too much water in your dog's ears, though. They won't enjoy this, and it will make their ear canals moist, predisposing them to ear infections. 

What are the signs I am using the wrong shampoo for my dog?

With so many dog shampoos on the market, it can be hard to choose. There's not one shampoo that suits every pet, so it’s important to keep an eye on your pooch after bathing them to make sure no problems arise. If you are using the wrong type of shampoo for your dog, then you might see some of the following signs:

• Skin becoming pink or red
• Increased itchiness (rubbing at the face, licking paws, or scratching their body)
• Skin becomes flaky or crusty 
• Bald patches appear
• Rashes or spots

Speak to your vet if your dog has had an adverse reaction to his shampoo, or the dog-shampoo alternative that you have used. 

Although the answer to the question "can you use baby shampoo on dogs?" is technically yes, it's best to avoid doing so. Human shampoo lacks a dog-appropriate pH, and it's often too harsh for a dog's skin, containing more chemicals and perfumes. Talk to your veterinarian about the best shampoo for your dog to keep their skin and coat as healthy as possible.

For more great canine content, check out our guide to this simple grooming mistake can pose a serious health risk for your dog for an important tip for what to include in your dog's grooming routine.

If you’re looking for one of the best dog brushes, we can safely assume that you want your dog to look and feel great. After all, a good brush will ensure your canine companion’s coat continues to look glossy and well-groomed. Grooming also helps to stimulate blood flow and prevent all manner of health conditions, such as tangling and matting, which can lead to bacteria growth, skin infections, tears and parasites.

But while a good brush is one of the most important items in the best dog grooming kit, selecting one isn’t as easy as you may think. For starters, there are five types of dog brushes so understanding your pet’s coat is important.

“Thick long coats, tight curly coats, and sleek short coats all have different brushing needs so you’ll need to choose your dog brush accordingly,” affirms expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

Here, then, we address some of those issues, explaining the suitability of the different brush types while stressing the need to consider your dog's breed, coat length and type. We also suggest specific products that will best suit your various needs thereby preventing you from becoming overwhelmed. With all of that in mind, let’s take a look at the best brushes for dogs on the market today.

The best dog brushes we recommend in 2026

How we chose the best dog brushes

Although different brushes are aimed at different breeds and coat length, we primarily looked, in general, at how effective each one would be on their intended dog. To that end, we were looking at how well a brush would be able to remove excess hair and tackle shedding and how well it could tackle important problems such as matting and knots.

We also looked at how often a brush is likely to be used: brush daily or twice-weekly and we reckon you’d want the tool to have an ergonomic design and easy-grip handle to make life a lot more comfortable for you.

Why do I need to brush my dog?

Even if your dog has very short hair, it’s still advised to run a brush over it.

“Dog brushes allow you to keep your dog’s coat looking its best,” says expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan. “Regular grooming stops tangles from turning into unmanageable, painful mats. It also removes dead fur, which not only makes your dog’s coat look healthier but also stops so much loose hair in your home. This not only keeps your home tidier but can also be a big help for asthma or allergy sufferers.”

What brush will be best for my dog?

The answer to this depends on the type of hair your dog has and any problems it may face. For example, tackling matting and knots is best carried out using a comb or teezer brush unless you’re looking to penetrate deep down into thick and double coats, in which case a rake brush is best.

Dogs with very silky coats will benefit from a pin brush. Their easy-gliding, spaced out bristles and protective balls on the end to prevent scratching do a great job of stimulating and distributing the natural oils in the coat and add a nice shine.

Pin brushes aren’t suitable for dogs with long hair or very thick coats (like the German Shepherd), however. For these, opt for a slicker brush as they penetrate deep into the coat and do a wonderful job of removing loose hair, as well as loosening knots and tangles.

Slicker brushes are brilliant if you have a heavy shedder because they collect all the dead hair. You can then simply click the release button and have it empty itself into the trash.

How often will I need to brush my dog?

How often you should brush your dog will depend on your dog’s fur type.

“Short coats may only need brushing once a week, whereas some long-coated dogs will need daily brushing,” Dr MacMillan says. Lifestyle will also play a part. If your dog is getting dirty or potentially coming into contact with parasites, then they’ll need more regular brushing.

How to introduce grooming

Brushing should always be a positive experience for your dog.

“If they are not used to being brushed, you will need to introduce the idea gradually, by taking baby steps and offering treats and praise,” says Dr MacMillan. “It’s also possible to groom your dog when their fur is wet or dry. When wet, it may be easier to tease out knots, but brushing can be gentler for your dog when their fur is dry so it is generally preferable.”

Here’s some more advice on how to groom a dog.

Should I still brush a nervous dog?

It’s worth considering a grooming glove (like this one on Amazon) rather than a brush.

“This fits on your hand and makes it seem like you are stroking your dog rather than bushing them,” Dr MacMillan says. By keeping initial grooming sessions short and praising your pet throughout, you should find that they begin to come around to the idea. “Through positive reinforcement training, you may gradually be able to introduce alternative brushes over time.”

Here’s some more advice on how to brush a dog that hates being brushed.

Still not sure where to start? We got some dog grooming tips from a vet. Or, learn how to get dog hair off your couch and how to remove dog hair from your washing machine

Doggy playtime can often result in dirty dogs and mucky mutts, which is why we love using the best dog shampoos to clean up the results of their canine carnage.

Whether you've got an outdoorsy pup who loves playing in mud or a messy eater who gets covered in the best dog food instead of eating it, dog shampoos are a vital part of the clean-up. And no, you can't just use human shampoo on your dog!

When choosing the best dog shampoo for your pooch, you'll need to consider your dog's skin type, fur type, and any allergies they may have. You'll also want to find a scent that you find pleasing, and a company that fits your values.

We've rounded up a bunch of the best dog shampoos out there, with hypoallergenic, natural, and medicated options to help you find what you need. We've also got some 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioners on the list, but if you choose a regular shampoo then head over to our best dog conditioners guide for the perfect cleaning companion.

The Quick List

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The best dog shampoos we recommend in 2024

Best overall dog shampoo

Earthbath Oatmeal and Aloe Natural Pet Shampoo is a classic dog shampoo that owners have been using and loving for years. That's why it's our best overall dog shampoo to buy for your furry friend - it's stood the test of time.

The ingredient list in Earthbath Oatmeal and Aloe Natural Pet Shampoo is simple and full of clean ingredients that are biodegradable, phosphate-free, paraben-free, and soap-free. Plus, it's not tested on animals, so you can rest easy knowing no animal cruelty was involved in creating this shampoo. While the almond and vanilla scent isn't groundbreaking, it's simple and fresh and won't be too overpowering for those who may not love a strong-smelling pooch.

Those who have bought Earthbath Oatmeal and Aloe Natural Pet Shampoo report that it helps dogs with skin allergies, dandruff, and bacterial dermatitis, which can seriously bother your pooch and cause them to incessantly itch. If you don't keep on top of your pup's skin issues, they can easily irritate their skin further or make the problem worse by scratching until they injure themself, so getting a product like Earthbath will certainly help.

And Earthbath is great even if your dog has great skin, as it lathers well for especially dirty pooches or those with long coats, which helps clean and detangle impressive manes. The quality of the lather also means this product will last you a long while, as you won't need to use tons to get your dog clean.

If you happen to own a cat as well, you'll get even more bang for your buck, as Earthbath can be used on cats, too!

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Best 2-in-1 dog shampoo for puppies

Burt's Bees 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner is a great value for the price point, with clean and transparent ingredients you'll feel comfortable putting on your pup's skin. It's great for dogs and puppies, and great for owners with sensitive skin too!

This 2-in-1 formula is fragrance-free but will leave your pup smelling clean and fresh. The ingredients are simple and free from harsh chemicals and sulfates, and include soothing and softening ingredients such as oatmeal and cocoa. Its formula is veterinarian recommended, so you can be sure it's safe for your dog (or your puppy, as it's gentle enough for young pooches, too).

Whether you're looking for a shampoo that will clean your Golden Retriever's luxurious coat or a gentle shampoo for your pit bull's sensitive skin, you can't go wrong with this dog shampoo formula. While the lather will be somewhat lighter than other dog shampoos, that's to be expected considering it's a natural shampoo, so don't fret if you don't see a ton of suds when you start scrubbing, as it's perfectly normal (and healthier). The conditioner will also leave your dog's mane silky soft, making it much easier to brush and will keep it from tangling between washes.

With a great price point, gentle ingredients that soothe even the most irritated skin, and vets' approval, Burt's Bees 2-in-1 Shampoo and conditioner is one of the best value dog shampoo on the market.

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Best dog shampoo for double coats

With the heavenly scent that you'd expect from TropiClean, this shampoo has been specially formulated to suit the needs of dogs with thick, double coats such as German Shepherds, Pomeranians and Siberian Huskies.

Made using a range of natural botanical extracts, it gently penetrates double coats to loosen and remove trapped dirt and debris, helping to promote natural deshedding. As it loosens the undercoat to reduce excess shedding, it exfoliates the skin and strengthens the hair follicles.

Suitable for dogs 12 weeks and over, this shampoo leaves fur feeling soft and silky, eliminating the need for conditioner. It has a thick texture and lathers well, plus the light and refreshing scent will leave your dog feeling like they've just had a professional grooming session.

If have multiple dogs, this brand also has specific formulas for a variety of dog coats, meaning you can find the right formula for your fluffy friend.

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Best dog shampoo for sensitive skin

The 4-Legger Certified Organic Dog Shampoo is a fantastic choice for those pooches who have sensitive skin. You have to be extra careful when buying shampoo for your sensitive dogs, as the wrong type can easily irritate their skin further, making them uncomfortably itchy. All-natural shampoos are the safest option for dogs with seasonal allergies or itchy, scratchy skin, and this shampoo is the perfect option.

The 4-Legger Certified Organic Dog Shampoo is the best sensitive skin dog shampoo because all of its ingredients are USDA-certified hypoallergenic, free from synthetic or chemical ingredients, and organic. The ingredients include recognizable things like coconut oil, aloe vera juice, olive oil, lemongrass essential oil, rosemary extract, and jojoba oil, which are all great things for a pup with sensitive skin! It's also widely approved by vets and groomers, so you know it's good.

This shampoo lathers easily and rinses off well, and has a strong lemongrass scent (which might be too much for some people who are sensitive to strong smells) that acts a natural flea deterrent.

Those who have used the 4-Legger Certified Organic Dog Shampoo report it does wonders for their dog's skin, especially those who have incredibly sensitive skin that's prone to flare-ups. If you have a dog with sensitive skin (like greyhounds or pit bulls) or a dog who has suffered from demodex mange or other skin issues, this is absolutely the best dog shampoo for you and your canine.

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Best deodorizing dog shampoo

Have a stinky doggy on your hands? Then it’s time to unleash the power of baking soda and natural botanicals to have your hound clean and smelling sweet once more.

This powerful advanced odor control formula from Arm & Hammer effectively gets rid of unwanted smells from the coat and skin, with the baking soda particles penetrating deeply to dissolve and remove odor.

Infusions of honey, rose, kiwi, and white tea extracts are used to neutralize odors and reduce shedding and the beautiful blossom scent rests lightly on the coat after washing, leaving your hound smelling heavenly.

Suitable for all dogs over the age of eight weeks, this shampoo is also safe to use in conjunction with topical flea and tick treatments. While it’s not a tearless formula, it’s been designed to be gentle and non-harmful around sensitive areas.

We'd recommend avoiding this product if your dog has very dry skin due to the baking soda, but other than that, this is a powerful shampoo. Free from harsh chemicals and containing no parabens or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) this natural dog shampoo is gentle on the skin and coat but tough on those strong and unwanted doggy odors.

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Best dog shampoo for itchy skin

This divine smelling dog shampoo is pH balanced, alcohol free, paraben free, PEG-80 free and does a fantastic job of moisturizing dry skin, cleaning dirty coats & providing itch relief.

Infused with coconut, lime and verbena, a little goes a long way with this shampoo and it has a rich lather that will leave your dog looking and smelling their best. It also contains aloe vera, which is great for soothing skin that's become inflamed through regular scratching.

The plant derived ingredients and lack of harsh chemicals makes this shampoo an ideal choice for allergy sufferers and because it's highly concentrated and priced so affordably, it's perfect for any pet parent on a budget.

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Best natural shampoo for dogs

Not only is Buddy Wash Original Lavender and Mint Dog Shampoo and Conditioner a great price, but it's a fantastic product for your pooch, too.

It's made from natural and pure ingredients that naturally clean and condition your dog's fur and skin, including sage, aloe vera, rosemary, green tea, and chamomile. The liquid is coconut-based with no alcohol in it, and natural deodorizers like wheat protein for a gentle, great-smelling wash that will last at least a week, according to reviews.

Since Buddy Wash is soap-free, it won't harm your dog's eyes or upset their stomach if it gets in their mouth, but it still lathers easily and rinses off quickly for an effective wash.

Some owners even suggest that the lavender scent helps soothe their dogs during bath time, which can often be a stressful experience for your pup (especially if they aren't too fond of water). Many report their dogs' coats felt smooth, incredibly soft, and tangle-free after using the Buddy Wash, and that's likely because it's both shampoo and conditioner!

For such a low price and with such simple and effective ingredients, Buddy Wash Original Lavender and Mint Dog Shampoo is a great purchase for your pooch, whether you've got a big old Husky or a tiny Chihuahua.

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Best medicated dog shampoo

If your pooch is dealing with some skin problems, you'll need a shampoo that's vet-approved. Veterinary Formula Clinical Care Antiseptic and Antifungal Medicated Shampoo is a fantastic option for any pet dealing with bacterial or yeast infections.

The shampoo has benzethonium chloride, an anti-bacterial that can treat skin infections like pyoderma, and ketoconazole, an anti-fungal which will treat yeast infections. Despite all the medicated ingredients, this shampoo is free of soaps and parabens, and won't remove spot-on flea or tick treatments.There's also aloe vera in the formula, which will help soothe irritations, and lanolin, which will moisturize and help decrease itching and flaking issues, both of which are side effects of allergic dermatitis.

This shampoo is for both dogs and cats, so the fairly cheap bottle will go a long way. It's safe for dogs and cats over 12 weeks of age, and you can use it twice a week while fighting off a skin condition, then once a week to keep all those skin nasties at bay.

Veterinary-grade dog shampoo can be expensive or difficult to get without a prescription, and that's why Veterinary Formula Antiseptic and Antifungal Medicated Shampoo is so great. You can help take care of your pet's needs without breaking the bank, which we can all appreciate.

The only downside is that this may not be the right formula for your dog's skin conditions, which is why you should consult your vet before using this shampoo and reach out again if it seems like your pup's condition isn't improving.

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Best hypoallergenic dog shampoo

If your dog has sensitive skin or is prone to itching, the Vet’s Best Hypo-Allergenic Shampoo is a must-have. It’s specially formulated with natural, plant-based ingredients such as aloe vera and vitamin E. Designed to moisturize and soothe dry skin, it also relieves itching to keep your pooch content after bathtimes. Best of all, it’s free from harmful parabens, dyes or sulphates.

Simply lather and massage for 3-5 minutes to get the full benefits of the quality ingredients. Rinse well and repeat if necessary. However, it acts quickly and gives great results. While it doesn’t have a strong fragrance, it does have subtle hints of tea tree and essential oils.

What’s more, the shampoo can be used alongside other treatments like the best flea treatments for dogs. So you won’t have to worry about your pup missing out on a revitalizing bath! It’s worthwhile noting that the consistency is rather watery, so you may need to use more. However, you won’t be disappointed with the excellent results!

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Best-smelling dog shampoo

If you're looking for the best dog shampoo for scent that's also a gentle, moisturizing formula then look no further than TropiClean Luxury 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner.

This luxurious lather features a bright tropical scent without being too overpowering with coconut. Even once bathtime is over, you're still likely smell a subtle hint of fresh coconut on your dog's fur, although some pet owners may find the strength of the scent is affected by factors such as the length of type of your pet's hair and environmental conditions. It's pleasant enough for owner without being too strong for pet.

The shampoo features a conditioner built in, which is a great timesaver for dogs who hate baths, but also it allows the product to detangle the hair as well as clean. The formula is pH balanced and is free of soap, parabens and dye so expect a formula that's kind to your dog's skin but you'll want to avoid around the face and eyes as it's not specifically tear free.

This shampoo does typically work well for dogs with dry, itchy sensitive skin, helping to soothe the skin and create shine in the fur, however you may choose the brand's medicated Oatmeal option instead if this is a particular problem with your pooch.

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Best waterless dog shampoo

If your dog hates baths, then Bodhi Dog Waterless Shampoo is simply a must-have investment. This convenient spray comes in three gorgeous scents: lavender, lemongrass and oatmeal that not only cleans, but works as a detangler too.

You'll likely be pleasantly surprised by the results on their coat, even without lathering it in. The shampoo features a long-lasting smell that will linger even after a few days and their coat looks soft and shiny. Added bonus is the fact it dries quickly and can work well on dogs that have sensitive skin.

Many pet owners appreciate that the shampoo's ingredient list features no alcohol, detergents, parabens, sulphates or dyes making it a great option to reach for even with dogs who have allergies.

The product is generally very easy to use as a spray formula, but the design could be updated to allow for better coverage over a dog's body. Sometimes, when you spray it, it comes out in one hard stream. Some pet owners may also find that it doesn't completely replace a bath entirely, rather that it's a light refresher between baths depending on how dirty your dog gets.

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Best moisturizing dog shampoo

As well as ensuring your dog ends up smelling sweet and fresh, this shampoo will get deep within your pooch's coat for a great clean. Not only that, it has been designed with safety in mind with the maker going to great lengths to ensure the product is as gentle as it can be.

To that end, it will soothe, calm and nourish irritated skin. It also moisturizes and softens while tackling dry, itchy and flaky skin. What's more, since Oliver's Choice contains oatmeal, it can help to relieve symptoms of allergies. The addition of Aloe Vera also means the shampoo has anti-inflammatory properties and the maker has ensured the product is paraben free.

All of this ensures that the shampoo can be safely used on puppies as well as adult dogs. Indeed, the shampoo is cruelty-free and tear-free which makes it ideal for sensitive pooches, and, because the formula is biodegradable, it results in less pollution too! It adds up to a great buy – one that many users swear by.

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Best dog shampoo for curly and wavy hair

If you have a poodle, poodle crossbreed, Old English Sheepdog, Bichon Frise or any breed with high-volume fur, then this will prove to be a great shampoo. It has been specially formulated for dogs with thick, curly and wavy hair, working fast to smooth the follicles so that you can work on detangling and unmatting any troublesome patches.

Made with naturally derived ingredients and free of soap, paraben and dye, this shampoo has also been created to be gentle although you should, as always, keep it away from your dog's eyes. After bathing with it for around five minutes, it should leave your dog's fur feeling silky, smooth and soft. Since it's moisturizing, you could also get away with not using a conditioner.

The shampoo also absorbs excess water while helping to break water surface tension and this makes drying your dog quick and easy. It has been formulated for added lift, too, which will give a dog's coat maximum volume and shape. No wonder it's going down well with doggy parents.

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Best concentrated dog shampoo

With over 3,000 5-star reviews on Amazon, this ultra-concentrated dog shampoo is proving to be a huge hit. Although it appears expensive at first glance, with each bottle of concentrate being able to make 24 bottles of shampoo, you'll definitely be saving money in the long run.

Containing silk proteins that add texture and body and aloe vera to soothe sensitive skin, this shampoo has a light and clean scent and comes with vitamins and essential oils to condition the coat.

Non-oily, it won't weigh your pup's fur down or make it greasy and it's available in multiple sizes, so depending on the breed of your dog or how many canine companions you have, you can always go with a smaller size if you'd rather just make up a few bottles.

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How to choose the best dog shampoo

Whether you need all-natural shampoo, extra-clean shampoo, or a special medicated shampoo, there are many options for you and your canine – and make sure you check the ingredients! There isn't a single brand out there that is best across the board. Instead, you'll want to consider what your budget is, and what your dog needs from a shampoo.

With that in mind, we spoke with Dr. Rebecca MacMillan for a few tips when choosing a dog shampoo, and she had this to say:

"Choosing a dog shampoo can feel a bit overwhelming, and with so many to pick from, it can be hard to know where to start! It’s important not to base your decision solely on the scent of the shampoo, or a pretty bottle. The main things to consider are your dog’s coat and their skin type. Dog breeds vary so much, with silky coats, short coats, double coats, and wiry coats. Different shampoos are available for various coat colors too, reducing staining in white fur or bringing out their natural shine in darker fur.

So, a shampoo that suits your pet’s coat type is always a good starting place, but you should also think about their skin. Do they have sensitive or allergy-prone skin? Is their skin dry or flaky? If so, you might also want to think about a product that helps manage this, like a hypoallergenic shampoo. Ingredients like honey, oatmeal, Shea butter, or coconut oil, are all helpful for reducing inflammation or soothing irritated skin.

For most dogs, it is a good idea to avoid artificial scents and ingredients where possible anyway. Naturally derived tea tree or oatmeal-based shampoos tend to be more soothing on their skin, which is particularly helpful in itchy, sensitive dogs."

Types of dog shampoo

It's important that you choose the best dog shampoo for your specific pooch, and for you as well. If your dog has dry, sensitive skin, then lean towards getting an all-natural, soap-free, gentle shampoo. And if you're vegan or concerned with animal testing as well, then make sure that whatever all-natural shampoo you choose is cruelty-free.

If your dogs' skin issues go beyond dryness or itchy patches and they're dealing with yeast infections or other fungal issues, then you'll need a medicated vet-approved antiseptic or anti-fungal shampoo. You'll want to make sure those ingredients are safe and as gentle as possible for your pooch but still effective.

If your pup has fairly normal skin but an incredibly thick coat or is a big fan of rolling in mud puddles and frolicking in fields, you'll want a great-smelling dog shampoo with a scent that will linger for a little while. Dirty dogs, dogs with lengthy hair, or pooches with plentiful fur will need a shampoo that lathers, rinses well, and smells great.

What if my dog hates baths?

Let's face it, not all canines are excited when it comes to bath time. If your dog fights you every time they need to be put in the bath, it may be worth investigating some water-free options.

These shampoo formulas will let you clean your pup up, without requiring an entire bath. However, its important to remember that even with a "dry" shampoo, you pooch will still need periodic bathing. These options are meant to stretch the time between full baths, not replace them entirely.

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Do French Bulldogs shed and what can you do to reduce pet hair around your home? As pet owners, we all know that our beloved animals come with a few downsides, including noise, smells and hair. Sometimes it seems like picking hair off your best clothes is just something you’ve signed up for. 

Some breeds lose more coat more than others though, so if you’re looking into getting a new dog you might have considered a low-shedding breed. 

If you’ve ever wondered whether French Bulldogs shed excessively and how to prevent shedding, read on for all the answers. 

Do French Bulldogs shed excessively? 

All dog breeds shed to some extent, a throwback to the times when they had to grow a thick coat for winter warmth. Although most of us now keep our pets at least partly indoors, nature has yet to catch up! 

The good news is that French Bulldogs are short haired and don’t normally shed excessively compared with other breeds. They have famously smooth, shiny coats so won’t shed anything like as much as a long-haired breed. You can still expect to see them losing hair twice a year, in spring and fall, as they prepare to change coats seasonally.

If you see your Frenchie shedding a lot of hair outside those times, then you could be looking at a health problem.

What color French Bulldog sheds the least? 

There’s some anecdotal evidence to suggest that shedding can be slightly affected by color. Pure-bred French Bulldogs come in a range of colors including:

• Brindle (a mixture of light and dark colored hair)
• Cream (a uniform pale color)
• Pied (white with a few patches of darker color)
• Fawn (a solid light brown, which can vary from light tan to reddish brown)
• Chocolate (ranging from light to dark brown)
• Black (pure black, normally with a white blaze on the chest or throat)

Pale colors are thought to shed more than darker colors, although that may just be because white hairs are easier to see on the carpet! 

What causes shedding in French Bulldogs? 

So just why does your Frenchie feel the urge to deposit hair all over your best trousers? We’ve already mentioned the main reason, which is seasonal change. 

Your pooch will shed out his thicker winter coat in the spring when the weather turns warmer, and then loose the summer threads in the fall when he needs more warmth. 

If you spot your French Bulldog shedding excessively outside those times, it could be down to one of the following:

• Age: Puppies have finer hair than adults, which gives them that adorable fluffy appearance. Around the age of six months they’ll lose their puppy coat and grow an adult coat. This could happen at any time of year.
• Temperature: These little guys can be prone to breathing problems due to their flat faces, and also have a tendency to overheat. If the weather is very hot or you have your heating cranked up too high, your Frenchie may shed his coat in an attempt to cool off.
• Diet: For a shiny, healthy coat, your doggo needs a balanced diet. Feed a good quality dog food with plenty of omega acids. You could also supplement with dried fish or fish oil for an extra-shiny coat.
• Parasites: A pet with ticks or fleas is an itchy pet, and an itchy pet is a pet that scratches! Sometimes dogs can scratch out areas of coat when they’re trying to catch that pesky parasite. If you notice your pooch scratching excessively, speak to your veterinarian.
• Disease: Skin diseases and conditions such as hypothyroidism can cause hair to fall out. Skin disease such as bacterial infection normally causes bald patches, whereas hypothyroidism makes the coat thin and sparse. With their sensitive skin, Frenchies can also be prone to sunburn. They can also be subject to health problems making them an expensive choice of pet so any uneven shedding should be investigated by your veterinarian.
• Pregnancy: If your pup is pregnant, then she’ll be undergoing some hormone changes. These can affect her coat and make her temporarily more liable to shedding.

How to stop shedding in French Bulldogs 

As already discussed, shedding is a natural process and can’t be prevented entirely. You can, however, minimize and manage the amount of hair that ends up in the house! Once a week, give your pup a gentle grooming with one of the best dog brushes. Work from his head, along his body to his tail to remove loose hair. Most Frenchies love a cuddle and will happily curl up on your lap while you do this.

Once a month, give your pampered pet a bath with warm water and dog shampoo for sensitive skin. Make sure you dry him off carefully afterwards, paying particular attention to folds of skin which can get damp and sore.  

Do French Bulldogs shed all year round? 

Like other breeds, Frenchies will have two major sheds a year when they change their coats according to the season. For modern pups who live in heated houses, there may be a small amount of shedding all year round. The main event should only happen twice a year, though. 

What is the best dog brush for shedding in French Bulldogs? 

Due to their short coat and sensitive skin, one of the best tools to have in your grooming kit is a glove. Pop on a pair of these specially designed gloves and give your Frenchie a weekly stroking session to remove dead hair and promote a shiny coat.

Conclusion 

So as we’ve seen, yes, French Bulldogs do shed – but not so much, compared to other breeds. With regular care, a good diet and a weekly grooming routine, the whole ‘dog hair on the couch’ issue can be kept to a strict minimum.  

To find out more about this cheeky, mischievous breed and their characteristics, read our article uncovering fascinating facts about the French Bulldog.

Dog dandruff is easy to spot. It manifests itself as small white flakes which appear on your pooch's fur and you may also see them in other places such as on the sofa or bedding, and it might even persist despite using the best dog shampoo. Often you'll find dandruff coincides with increased scratching or irritated skin. But what is dog dandruff?

What you're actually seeing is dry, flaky skin consisting of dead cells that are getting caught in the fur and, in some cases, being transferred on to household items. But the good news is the condition can be treated. Just remember that dandruff can also be a sign of an underlying condition or illness so be sure to deal with it as soon as possible.

• Does dog shampoo expire? How to tell
• Homemade dog shampoos: the best DIY recipes
• Can you use baby shampoo on dogs?

What causes dog dandruff?

There are many reasons why dandruff develops. In humans, it's generally due to dry or irritated oily skin, conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, sensitivity to certain hair products or Malassezia – a yeast that grows in the hair follicles.

In dogs, the causes can be much the same and, in general, anything that leads to dry skin on dogs is generally to blame, as is anything which causes itching. You will find that dandruff is typically due to:

A poor diet. Dogs need a diet rich in nutrients in order to keep their skin and coat in a healthy condition. It's well known that insufficient healthy fats are problematic so make sure your dog has plenty of omega-3 essential fatty acids and is fed the best dog food.

A dry environment. Dandruff may be more prevalent during the winter when you have the central heating turned up, drying the skin. It can also be a problem among dogs living in warm countries. Regular grooming can help by redistributing natural oils over the skin.

Allergies and illness. Food and environmental allergies (such as dust or pollen) can cause scratching and dry skin. Some conditions including hypothyroidism and, rarely, autoimmune skin disease can also be the culprit. It's a good idea to visit a vet if you suspect either one.

Malassezia. Dogs can also suffer from Malassezia, primarily around the lips, ear canals, between the toes and facial skinfolds and on the neck and armpits. It leaves the skin looking red and sore, resulting in flakiness. Again, a trip to the vet is in order.

Seborrhea. This occurs when the sebaceous glands produce too little or too much sebum, which is a normal oily secretion of the skin. When there is not enough oil, the skin becomes dry and itchy. When there's too much, it's discomforting, so your dog is likely to scratch, removing tiny flakes of skin. Visit a vet.

Grooming. If your dog is over-grooming – or, indeed, if you are grooming your dog too much – then this can cause the skin to be stripped of its natural oils, causing it to become dry. If you suspect this could be the cause, groom less regularly or change the routine.

Dog dandruff or flea eggs?

Another major cause of dandruff are fleas and lice, primarily because they make the skin itchy. They also lay eggs on the skin so you may end up mistaking both the critters and the eggs as being dandruff rather than something that requires the best flea treatment for dogs.

One way to tell the difference is to look for the flakes' position and test whether they easily fall out by running a comb through. Lice, for example, lay eggs on the hair and cling on tight so if the specks fall out rather easily, then you're more likely to be dealing with dandruff. 

Flea eggs are also thicker and distinguishable from dandruff. You'll notice eggs are of a similar shape and size whereas dandruff are far more irregular. They are sticky and usually accompanied by other telltale signs such as red flea bite marks on the skin.

Finally, watch out for cheyletiella mites. They don't cause dandruff but, again, they can be mistaken for it. Although these little blighters are only small – just 0.015 inches (0.383 millimetres) long – that just about makes them visible. They also live on the skin of dogs making closer observation necessary.

Now, some people actually call these eight-legged mites “walking dandruff” and that's actually a good way to tell the difference between them and dandruff: if the white flakes move then they're more likely to be mites. Dandruff can't walk!

Dog dandruff shampoo

For most instances of dandruff (that is, those which are not being caused by an underlying condition), you simply need to get hold of some dog shampoo for treating the condition.

Never use human dandruff shampoo because the ingredients could be harmful but instead look for those specially formulated for pooches and seek the advice of a vet if you believe the issue may be more serious such as treating fleas or seborrhea.

Many dog shampoos for dandruff contain salicylic acid which exfoliates skin as well as glycerin which retains moisture and this will greatly reduce those annoying flakes. But there are lots of other products, including natural shampoos on the market and many that haven't been tested on animals. If a dog dandruff shampoo is not working, however, it could be indicative of another underlying issue.

Other dog dandruff treatments

A good grooming routine can have a beneficial effect, not just in combating dandruff but the overall health of your dog's coat and skin. Perhaps consider these 10 great dog bath, grooming, and clean up products being careful not to brush too hard.

It's a good idea to learn how to give a dog a bath as well. Baths can help with outbreaks of seborrhea and they can also assist fungal and bacterial infections. Indeed, more frequent bathing is often recommended by vets as a way to keep the skin from drying out.

Other things to try are fatty acid supplements although a good dog food should contain plenty. You may want to look at ways of preventing your home from drying out. Our sister website, TechRadar recommends the Dyson Pure Humidify+Cool air purifier and humidifier.

If you want to save money or be more environmentally-conscious, homemade dog shampoo could be a great option for you and your pup. While some of the best dog shampoo products are all-natural and fairly well-priced, you may determine that DIY is more your style and decide to craft your own homemade dog shampoo.

And that's a great idea, especially with more pet owners looking for natural and frugal alternatives to everyday pet essentials. It's not a bad idea to look at the commercial options as well, as there could be a dog shampoo that's best suited for your dog's individual needs like dry or allergy-prone skin. But if you've done your research and still think DIY is the way to go, we'll walk you through all you need to know about homemade dog shampoo.

The most important thing when trying out new dog shampoo is to make sure everything you are using is pet safe. Human shampoo is not an alternative for dog shampoo, as a dog's skin has much different pH levels to us humans. This means your average bottle of Head and Shoulders is far too acidic for your pup.

But you'll be surprised to see how much stuff in your house is perfect for creating homemade dog shampoo. The following 6 natural dog shampoo recipes are made from simple pet-friendly ingredients such as oatmeal, aloe vera gel, and Castile soap – most of which you may already have in your house. These items are ideal for a luxe DIY dog spa day, or when you've forgotten to go to the pet store for supplies! So read on for the best DIY homemade dog shampoo recipes. 

• How often should I bathe my dog?
• How to groom a dog

 6 homemade dog shampoo recipes

1. Homemade dog shampoo with oatmeal

Ingredients
• 1 cup of oatmeal
• Half cup of baking soda
• Warm water (not boiling)

Method
• Using a blender or food processor, grind a cup of oatmeal until it is the consistency of flour.
• Combine the oatmeal with baking soda and a quart of water in a bowl. Stir until the ingredients are completely blended.
• Apply the homemade shampoo to your dog's fur and leave for five minutes before rinsing well with water.

Recipe via Cuteness

2. Homemade dog shampoo with coconut oil

Ingredients
• ¼ cup coconut oil
• ¾ cup distilled water
• ½ cup Castile soap
• 5 drops lavender oil
• 5 drops of rosemary oil 

Method
• Add all ingredients to a glass container or bottle.
• Firmly place the cap, and shake or mix well to combine.
• Wet your dog's coat all over, and apply the shampoo with a dog brush or fingers.  
• Wash off with water, and repeat if necessary.
• Dry your dog with a towel, or gently blow dry on a low heat.

Recipe via BeautyMunsta.

3. Homemade dog shampoo with aloe vera

Ingredients
• 1 teaspoon of aloe vera gel
• 1 teaspoon of olive oil
• Squeeze bottle
• Measuring cup
• Castile soap
• 2 cups of water

Method
• Put the water into a squeeze bottle.
• Add 2 teaspoons of Castile soap to the water.
• Add the aloe vera gel and olive oil to bottle and shake to mix ingredients.

Recipe via Daily Puppy.

4. Homemade dog shampoo with essential oils

Ingredients
• 2 drops lavender essential oil
• 1 tbsp Castile soap
• 2 drops peppermint essential oil
• 350 ml of water
• 2 drops eucalyptus essential oil
• Empty storage bottle

Method

• Mix all essential oils into the Castile soap, and stir for at least two minutes.
• Add the oil and soap mixture to your bottle.
• Add the water and shake each time you use the shampoo.
• Lather well and apply to your dog. Rinse well.

Recipe via Dogs Naturally Magazine.

5. Homemade dog shampoo for itchy skin

Ingredients
• 2 cups of water
• 2 tsps of Castile soap
• 2 tbsp of aloe vera gel
• 1 tsp of vegetable oil
•  2-3 drops of Eucalyptus essential oil
• Sterile jar

Method
• Pour the water into a sterile jar and add the Castile soap, aloe vera gel, and vegetable oil.
• Put the lid on the jar and shake well to combine the ingredients. Shake the mixture each time you use.
• Add a few drops of eucalyptus essential oil. This can be a great natural remedy for helping with fleas.
• Lather well and apply to your dog. Rinse well.

Recipe via Cuteness.

6. Homemade vinegar and warm water shampoo

Ingredients
• 1/2 cup of vinegar
• 2 cups of warm water
• 1/4 cup of Dawn dish soap
• Spray bottle 

Method

• Mix the vinegar, water and dish soap into a spray bottle and shake.
• Spray the mixture over your dog's body, ensuring it does not make contact with the face, and use your fingers to work into a lather.
• Rinse well to remove any residue.
• Dry with a towel or use a blow dryer on a low setting. 

Recipe via Wag Walking

What can I use to wash my dog if I don't have dog shampoo?

Remember: never use human shampoo. While it will arguably clean your dog just as well as homemade dog shampoo, its pH levels are formulated for human skin rather than dog skin. This can remove the moisture in your dog's fur, and in turn cause itchy, uncomfortable skin.

As a short-term fix, water can do the trick. It won't help with the smell, but should get them nice and clean. There are other options that can be found around your house, too. Approximately a cup of dish soap (240 ml) mixed with 2 cups (470 ml) of warm water should be effective, as would be the same concentration of baby shampoo against water.

White vinegar can also be effective at bath time - spray it on the fur, leave for five minutes, then wash it out. Be careful not to get it in their eyes though. White vinegar is antibacterial, and can kill fleas and ticks, but it will irritate your pup's peepers.

Finally, 1 cup (230 g) of baking soda and 1 cup (128 g) of cornstarch combined in a bowl can be useful. Comb it through your dog's fur to remove dirt and grime. It might not be something to use too often, however, as it can cause residue to build up on their fur.

Does dog shampoo expire? If you have bathed your dog recently and they don’t seem as clean as usual or they’re itchy and irritable, you may be asking yourself just that. As pet owners, we all want to ensure our dogs are kept clean and well-groomed, but it’s equally important that they are safe and healthy. Dog shampoos do have expiry dates and they do need to be followed.

Dogs don’t have to be bathed that often. Depending on the breed and how dirty they get, you may only need to bath them once every two months. This is because dogs have sensitive skin and bathing them too often can strip them of their natural oils. 

Similarly, you need to research the best dog shampoo to buy to make sure you have the right product for your pet and, most importantly, when buying or using dog shampoo, make sure it’s in date. 

Check the expiration date and if it’s expired don’t buy it or throw it in the bin. Using expired dog shampoo could lead to skin problems, infections and in the worst case, serious health problems so stick to the date on the bottle and keep your pet safe.  

• Can you use dog shampoo on cats? A vet's guide
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• Why do dogs hate baths? 6 top tips for cleaning your canine without stress

How to tell if dog shampoo has expired  

All dog shampoos have an expiration date. Even if they’re top of the range, they will expire over time, but not all manufacturers label their bottles so how can you tell? Most dog shampoos have the expiration date on the bottom, sides or back of the bottle so always check the label as these dates vary from shampoo to shampoo.

If there’s no expiration date, don’t buy it and if you’ve already got a bottle at home, but can’t see the use by date, throw it in the bin. It’s important not to use dog shampoo if there’s no expiration date as it’s difficult to tell if it’s still in date and using expired shampoo could harm your pet.

There are a number of ways to tell if dog shampoo has expired:

First, open the bottle and check inside. If the walls of the bottle have changed color or you can see fungus or bacteria growing, it’s a clear sign that it’s past its sell-by-date. Pour some of it out and give it a sniff. Expired shampoo may change texture becoming more watery and won’t smell as strong.

If the shampoo looks and smells the same, check your pet. Are they clean? Expired shampoo won’t be as effective in cleaning your dog when it comes to smell and removing clumps of dirt. And even if they seem clean, if they’re scratching themselves more than usual or if their skin looks dry, red or irritated, this could also be a sign you need to throw your dog shampoo out. 

How long does shampoo last once opened? 

Dog shampoo can last up to around three years unopened, but once opened, it expires surprisingly fast as once the bottle is opened, oxygen changes the chemical composition of the product. Once opened, most dog shampoos will last around 12-18 months. 

However, organic shampoos can last longer (some as long as 36 months) and medical shampoos including flea shampoos expire more quickly (around six months or less as their chemical make-up is more complex. 

To make sure your dog shampoo last as long as possible, check the label for an expiry date when buying it and store it at room temperature, somewhere dry and not in direct sunlight. 

How long can you use shampoo after the expiration date?  

You may think a few days past the expiration date won’t make a difference, but the expiration date is there for a reason. 

A few days after the expiration date, the product may be fine, it may just be less effective at cleaning or, worst case, it may cause a skin irritation or infection. The guideline is there because the product is best before that date and it’s not worth the risk. Don’t buy it or throw it out if the expiry date has past.   

What to do if there's no expiration date on dog shampoo bottle 

The best solution is to buy dog shampoo with an expiry date which you can check, but if there is no date you could check the manufacturer’s website or give them a call. Some shampoos may not have an expiry date, but will have a batch code on the bottle which you can check to see when the bottle was made. 

If there is no expiry date and you don’t want to throw it out immediately, think about how long you’ve had it or how long it’s been open. As a general rule, throw it out after 18 months after opening or three years unopened.

What are the side effects of expired shampoo?  

When dog shampoo expires, its chemical components begin to break down and bacteria builds up inside the product. 

Bacteria can cause a number of skin conditions including itching, fungus, allergic reactions, and inflammation. The skin can become dry, flaky, red and irritated. In worst cases this can lead to serious health conditions if not treated.  

Can I use human shampoo on dogs instead?  

If your dog shampoo has expired you may reach for your own shampoo to groom your pet – don’t! Human shampoo is not made for dogs. The chemical make-up is different and is not appropriate for your pooch. Dogs have softer, more sensitive skin and different pH levels to us (on average human pH level is 5.5 to 6.5 compared to a dog’s pH level which is between 6.2 and 7.5). 

If you use human shampoo on them this may result in dry and itchy skin as human shampoo is too aggressive. Dogs need products that moisturize while they clean. There are lots of different brands of dog shampoo to try, but if you don’t know which one to choose speak to the pet store or your local vet and be sure to read our articles on safe dog shampoo alternatives and using baby shampoo on dogs for further information. 

Pet owners are often puzzled by the question 'why do dogs hate baths?' when their furry friends will so readily jump into muddy puddles, lakes and streams at any given opportunity. Why do dogs like getting covered in mud, but don't like getting clean?

You may be ready with the best dog shampoo and best dog conditioner money can buy to treat your hound to a deluxe cleaning experience, but all too often they aren't. They are too busy hiding behind your legs at the sight of the bath tub, not to mention that dreaded shower head.

If this sounds familiar, don't worry. We are here to help with our guide to the reasons why bath time could be so off-putting to your pooch, and what you can do about it. Bathing your furry friend regularly is important, as you can see in our guide to how often you should bathe your dog, so below are our top tips on how to make the bathroom a fun place for your furry friend, rather than a stressful experience for them to avoid.

• How to give a dog a bath: A vet’s guide
• Dog shivering after bath? What you can do to help
• How to groom a dog: A vet's guide to brushing, bathing and clipping

1. The dog shampoo is causing irritation

Your pooch has a very good sense of smell, so that delightfully scented luxury shampoo you've bought to make them smell nice may well be overpowering for your dog. Your furry friend revels in smells we find disgusting, that's why they are so happy rolling around in mud and dirt, and why dogs eat poop for fun, much as we try to stop them!

Strongly scented soap and shampoos can be a major turn-off for your four-legged friend and means that they associate the bathroom with an unpleasant experience. It's also one that lingers long after the bath until they can find something nicer to roll in to get rid of that distressing smell. Strong detergent shampoos can also cause skin irritations, making it a doubly disagreeable experience for your dog.

If your dog does have sensitive skin, it's worth finding non-allergenic shampoos. Our guide to the best dog shampoo can help here, as well as helping you track down fragrance-free options.

• Can you use baby shampoo on dogs? A vet answers
• Can you use human shampoo on a dog?
• Homemade dog shampoos: 6 DIY natural dog shampoo recipes

2. They've experienced previous trauma

Fear of bath-time is unlikely to be because they are nervous of water – most dogs love jumping in to water wherever they find it. However, it's possible that previous experiences in the bathroom when younger could have taught them that it's a place to be avoided.

This may be because previously the water in the bath was too hot, that they were punished when they tried to leave it, or some other reason which causes them to have negative feelings associated with the experience.

You need to make the bathroom a welcoming place. Maybe spend some time in the room with them petting and giving them treats when it isn't bath time. Let them associate the area with fun, not just enforced cleaning. Hide treats in and around the bath to encourage them to explore it on their own too.

Letting them retrieve their favorite toy from the tub may well mean they are happier to get in and out. Introduce them to the shower head when in the bath with them, while petting them and showing them praise. Get out and run the shower away from them while giving them treats so they get used to the noise. Patience is key here, so wait until they seem acclimatized to the bath and its many 'dangers' before attempting to actually bathe them.

3. They struggle to find their footing

When you place your dog in the bathtub, you may find they're unstable on their feet. This can immediately create fear, so look to place a stable non-slip mat beneath their paws.

You may already have one in your tub designed for humans, but if not, check in with a pet supply store for a special bath mat designed specifically to keep canines feeling safe and secure. 

If you don't have a mat, look to use a towel on the floor of the bathtub to prevent your dog from falling over.  

4. They're unfocused

Whether it's jumping about because they're so happy to spend time with you, or there's an inviting smell in the next room, dogs can get pretty distracted. 

Enter: the lick pad, one of the best dog bath grooming products you will likely ever purchase. Simply smear your dog's favorite treat, like peanut butter or baby food, over the mat and stick it to your bathroom wall. 

Your dog will be too distracted to notice you're giving them a bath, instantly reducing any anxiety and stress.

5. They don't like the sound or pressure of the water

You might wonder why dogs are often happy to mess around in muddy water, yet when it comes to the very sight of a bathtub, will turn and run the other way. When a dog jumps into a river, they're taking action of their own accord, and are likely too busy having fun to care too much about what's around them.

However, when they enter a bath, the sound of rushing water so close might prove a frightening experience.

Instead of using a shower head, use a pitcher or bucket to gently pour water over their body. You could also opt for a softer spray setting, if your shower head allows. 

6. The temperature is too hot

Dogs can be sensitive to heat, so feeling hot water on their skin swiftly followed by a blow dry may prove uncomfortable.

Consider a colder bath instead, and use the lowest temperature setting on your dryer to ensure your pooch is not feeling the heat. 

At the same time, you don't want your dog to be cold, so opt for lukewarm. You can test this by spraying the shower nozzle on your arm and checking that it's at a suitable temperature. 

How to give a dog that is scared of water a bath

Many dogs don’t necessarily hate baths; they’re scared of them, often due to previous negative experiences. Forcing them into the bath will run the risk of traumatizing them and making future bathing experiences even tougher, so a softly-softly approach is required here.

First, try to give them a positive association with the bath itself. This can be done by feeding them in the bath beforehand, before the water levels have been topped up. Treats can serve this purpose too.

Another thing to do while there is no water in the bath is to teach them how to get in and out of it. The ‘up’ command can come in handy here, and after enough practice, getting into the bath when there’s water should be the next step.

Other reasons that a dog might be reluctant about the bathing experience is because they simply don’t know what to expect, or are unaware of what’s coming. To rectify this, use the word ‘bath’ as a cue for them. When you are brushing their fur beforehand (as you should do in preparation for their bath), make sure you use the word ‘bath’ a number of times in order to help reduce the surprise element.

There are other measures that you can take in the lead-up. Firstly, take them for a walk beforehand in order to calm them down. Also, why not put something in the bath, like a mat or towel? Some dogs don’t like the thought of slipping over, so having a towel or mat in place in the bath beforehand might allay their concerns.

If you’ve taken them for a walk beforehand, why not keep them on their leash while walking them to their bath? This way, they may be more amenable to being washed.

If you’re curious how often you should bathe a puppy, have a read of this expert’s guide. 

Whether you’re considering getting a Cane Corso or you’ve already welcomed one into your family, you may have found yourself asking the question ‘do Cane Corsos shed?’ The good news is, that while the answer is yes, you’re looking at low to moderate shedding as opposed to high, which will make keeping your home clean that much easier!

Cane Corsos have a noble lineage that dates back to ancient Roman times and they have strong protective instincts, which is not surprising given that their name means ‘bodyguard dog’ in Latin. They certainly live up to it too, displaying intense loyalty and devotion towards their humans.

But while they’re eager to please and highly intelligent, they can be assertive and wilful, so early training and socialization is a must. The Cane Corso is also a very confident dog and they’ll need an equally confident owner to ensure they know their place in the pack.

Because they’re so gentle and affectionate with their tribe, Cane Corsos make wonderful family dogs, but like with most breeds, they do shed and it’s worth understanding their shedding habits and grooming needs so that you’re aware of what having one in your home will be like.

Below, we give you a comprehensive rundown of how much the Cane Corso sheds, whether they shed more at particular times of the year, how to groom your Cane Corso and some helpful tips to minimize shedding, so that you know exactly what to expect. Let’s take a look…

Do Cane Corsos shed?

The short answer is yes, Cane Corsos do shed, but nowhere near as much as many other large breeds. The Cane Corso has a short, double-layered coat and their undercoat varies in length depending on the climate they live in. They’re classed as low to moderate shedders who molt year-round.

While for most of the year the Cane Corso will shed lightly, you’ll notice this increases during shedding season, which occurs twice a year in the spring and fall. During this time, expect to find a lot of extra fur around - we recommend investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners for pet hair to help make keeping your living spaces fur-free that much easier.

You’ll find the Cane Corso sheds about the same amount as other large, short-haired breeds like the Greyhound and Bullmastiff, but significantly less than large dogs with thick coats, like the German Shepherd. So, if you’re wanting a big breed but don’t want excessive shedding, the Cane Corso is a great choice.

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What causes the Cane Corsos to shed the most?

As we’ve seen, the Cane Corso for the most part is a low to moderate shedder, but there are things that can influence both the frequency and the degree to which they shed that are worth being aware of:

Season: You’ll notice an increase in the amount of shedding during the two shedding seasons of the year - spring and fall. In the spring, the Cane Corso sheds their undercoat to ensure they won’t be too hot in the summer months and in the fall they shed their thin summer fur to allow their warm undercoat to come through again.

Age: A Cane Corso puppy will shed a lot less than an adult dog and a senior dog will be likely to shed more than an adult dog.

Climate: Depending on whether you live in a warm or a cold climate, your Cane Corso will be more or less prone to shedding. A Cane Corso that lives in a cold climate will grow a longer and thicker undercoat than a Cane Corso that spends most of the year in a warm climate and this means they’ll molt more in shedding season.

Diet and exercise: Believe it or not, diet and exercise can have an impact on how much your Cane Corso sheds, so ensuring they get proper nutrition and plenty of exercise is key. A deficiency in certain vitamins and minerals can cause molting and overweight dogs can also have issues with their skin and coat.

Fleas: Protecting your pooch by regularly applying the best flea treatment for dogs is vital, not just for their health and wellbeing but also because fleas carry diseases that can influence how much your pup sheds.

While you’ll always have some degree of shedding with the Cane Corso, bearing the above factors in mind can help keep it from becoming excessive.

How to groom your Cane Corso

The great thing about the Cane Corso is that they’re very low maintenance in terms of their grooming needs, requiring little more than a brush one or twice a week with one of the best dog brushes for most of the year.

You’ll want to up the frequency of those grooming sessions during the spring and fall shedding seasons where there'll be a lot more fur flying around. We recommend daily brushing at these times as this will help you catch all the hair that’s about to fall out before it ends up all over your floors.

In terms of which grooming tools to use, a bristle or rubber brush is an excellent choice for the Cane Corso as both of these do a great job of massaging the coat and distributing the natural oils. During shedding season, you may find you need a deshedding tool in addition to your regular brush.

Tips to minimize Cane Corso shedding 

While low to moderate shedding is to be expected year-round if you own a Cane Corso, there are some things you can do to help keep all that molting to a minimum. Here’s a few of our favorites:

Regular brushing: One of the easiest and most effective ways to prevent excess shedding is to ensure you brush your Cane Corso once or twice a week during non-shedding periods and daily during shedding season. Brushing will help remove loose and dead fur and cut down on the amount of hair you’ll be finding around your home.

Feed them a healthy diet: Making sure you’re feeding your Cane Corso the best dog food is another way you can help reduce shedding. Look for formulas that are high in vitamins and minerals, particularly omega 3 & 6 fatty acids which do a brilliant job of nourishing the skin and coat and strengthening the hair.

Bathe them less: Bathing your dog too often during shedding season can make the rate of shedding increase, which is definitely not what you want! Stick to once a month, unless they’ve got themselves really dirty and need freshening up.

Choose the right shampoo: When you do bathe your Cane Corso, you’ll want to invest in one of the best dog shampoos. Look for one that is high in Vitamin E and has moisturizing properties as this will help loosen the dead hair and make that brushing session extra fruitful.

Speak with your vet: If you feel like your Cane Corso is shedding more than you think they should be, have a chat with your vet who will be able to rule out a hormonal imbalance or any other underlying health conditions.

Want to learn more about the breed? Here are our favorite Cane Corso facts. Or read about the Cane corso vs Rottweiler

Learning how to prevent and treat matted dog hair are skills well worth having in your pet parent arsenal, helping to make life easier for you and a lot more comfortable for your canine companion.

While any breed of dog can get knots or tangles, matting is particularly common in longer haired breeds, such as the Cocker Spaniel, curly haired dogs, like the poodle, and breeds with silky hair, such as the Yorkie. It happens when fur becomes tangled and wraps around itself, forming tight clumps that if not brushed out, continue to accumulate more hair.

Although matting may seem like a minor annoyance, mats can cause major health issues if left untreated. If mats aren’t dealt with early and brushed out or removed, they can go on to cause a range of skin problems from mild irritation to serious sores that can become infected. Ouch!

The good news is that regular grooming with one of the best dog brushes can prevent most mats from forming in the first place. And if you do spot one? The tips and tricks below will ensure you’re able to quickly and safely remove it before it goes on to cause problems.

What causes matted hair in dogs?

There are several things that may cause your dog’s hair to mat, the first of which is their breed (and therefore their coat type), which makes some dogs more prone to developing mats. Dogs who shed heavily or have long coats will tend to develop mats more easily than other breeds because as the old hair sheds, it can get tangled in the healthy coat and become trapped.

Friction is another major cause of matting, with high friction areas such as the armpits, lower legs, under the collar, behind the ears and any area where your dog is prone to scratching being prime areas for matting. Dogs that sit a lot or sit with one hip being favored over the other will also tend to develop mats in those spots where the fur is being compacted.

Believe it or not, if your dog has an infestation of fleas, all that itching and scratching can cause mats to form. Regularly treating your pup with one of the best flea treatments for dogs can help prevent this.

If you have a water baby on your hands, you’ll want to be more vigilant around checking for mats. Dogs who love to swim tend to dry themselves off by rolling on the ground or shaking, both of which can cause their fur to stick together, particularly between their legs or belly. Wet hair is also prone to curling as it dries and this can cause it to wrap around itself and form mats.

How to prevent mats

As the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure and that certainly applies when it comes to matted hair. Given how painful it can be to treat, ensuring it doesn’t happen in the first place is your best option.

According to certified master groomer and president of the Paragon School of Pet Grooming, Melissa Verplank, regular brushing is your best line of defense when it comes to preventing mats. “Regular brushing is key,” she explains, “When you brush, add a little moisture with a spray bottle, just a light mist.”

To help you brush your dog correctly, Verplank has the following tips when it comes to technique:

• Brush a small section at a time. Push the coat up with your hand to the line of the skin, pat the brush into the hair, and pull away from the dog’s body gently.
• Continue with this method of lifting, patting and gently stroking the brush through the coat a small section at a time. This method allows you to thoroughly brush the coat and find any tangles hidden under the top of the coat.
• Depending on the breed, you will want to brush your dog anywhere from once every couple of weeks to daily.

Learning how to groom a dog and ensuring you do it regularly will help ensure your pup stays mat-free. For more helpful advice, check out our vet’s dog grooming tips, which will help make the whole process as stress-free as possible for both you and your canine companion.

Aside from brushing, there are a few other things that can help prevent mats from developing. Bathing your dog once a month with the best dog shampoo can help to keep their skin and coat in tip-top condition and ensuring their hair stays at a manageable length will also help keep those mats at bay.

How to treat matted dog hair

Sometimes, even all the grooming in the world won’t prevent a mat from forming, particularly in those high friction areas that we might not always remember to brush. If you notice a mat, never fear, the below steps will help you treat that matted dog hair and have your furkid’s coat silky smooth again in no time.

1. Get your dog in a comfortable position and make sure they’re calm. If they’re not too skittish, then place them on a table or stable chair. For nervous pups, feel free to cradle them on the couch if this helps them feel more relaxed. You can also use a few of the best dog treats before you start to get them into a more chilled out state.
2. Using your fingers, gently massage the knots to help loosen the hair
3. Isolate the mat from the other hair by gently brushing the surrounding fur away
4. Lightly spritz the mat with a detangling spray, this will moisten it and make it easier to work with. But don’t bathe your dog as this will actually make the process harder and more painful.
5. Place your fingers under the base of the mat and begin to gently brush the mat with a bristle brush, alternating directions to break up the hair fibers
6. Take a dematting comb and starting at the top of the mat, start to detangle, slowly working your way down to the base
7. Lightly spray condition around the matted area and then use a stainless steel comb to go over the detangled hair

The above steps are for dogs with mild matting only. If you notice more serious matting, your dog’s hair may require trimming in order to remove it safely. In this case, we recommend you always take your dog to a professional groomer who will be able to deal with the mats in a way that doesn’t cause your pup any pain.

If you've ever had a dog you'll know how important it is to clean dog paws. Your four-legged friends spend a lot of time on their feet, traipsing through mud and other dirty stuff, maybe even stepping on poo, and walking all over your house (perhaps even on your furniture).

No matter the weather, your dog is going to want to go outside, and that means they could come in with some seriously dirty paws. In some cases, your dog may have stepped in something that could be harmful to them if ingested like a pesticide or could cause other uncomfortable conditions to develop (such as red paws on dogs), so it's important to know how to clean dog paws when the time inevitably comes.

Keep in mind that you can help prevent your dog from getting any paw-related injuries by fitting them for a set of booties, especially if you walk them in urban areas where there is hot pavement and often broken glass. It'll also help keep their feet clean and avoid them trekking whatever is outside into your home.

Often, the best dog shampoos work just fine to help clean your dog's paws, but if you want to take it a step further and really pamper your pooch, there are natural ways to moisturize your dog's paws. Here's everything you know about how to clean dog paws.

• Winter dog walking tips: making walkies a joy in the colder months
• Top tips for walking your dogs in the snow

Should you clean dog paws after a walk? 

It's certainly a good idea to clean your dog's paws after a walk, and there's a few reasons why. Weather has a big impact on your dog's paw health - snow can dry their paws out, while salt used to melt ice on roads can irritate their paws, especially if they have any cracks or cuts on their paw pads.

If you walk your dog in urban areas and choose not to use booties (which are highly recommended when it comes to protecting feet), then cleaning your dog's paws after a walk gives you a chance to make sure they didn't step on anything that could have cut them. 

If you walk your dog in wooded areas, ticks or other critters could make their way to your dog's paws, so a nice clean will help ensure they don't bring any creepy crawlies inside. 

How to clean dog paws 

You can clean dog paws in two main ways: with dog wipes or by way of a bath. There are plenty of wipes made specifically for dogs, which you'll want to make sure you use. Do not use any wipes other than pet safe wipes. Dog paw wipes are great for traveling, as they're usually in bags similar to baby wipes. They'll help clean up sandy, salty, or muddy paws with ease, but may struggle with especially dirty feet.

Your dog's paws will get cleanest from a bath, however. And while you may hesitate to give your pooch a full bath when you just want to clean their paws, don't worry, as you can easily put them in the tub and fill it up to just their feet or use the shower head to direct water to just their little feets. Or, if you have a small dog, you may be able to put them in the sink. 

Use dog-safe shampoo and you'll get their feet rid of any harmful debris or dirt, and make sure to dry them thoroughly before letting your dog go. If you're feeling fancy, there are portable paw cleaners that look just like little tumblers. You simply fill it with water, put your dog's paw in there, twist the tumbler, and you've got a freshly rinsed dog foot!

How to clean a dog paw wound  

If the unfortunate happens and you see your dog step on something sharp or notice them favoring a paw, make sure to do a proper examination of their foot. You may  need to clip the hair around their paw pad, especially if it's a dog with long hair or fur. 

If there's an injury, you'll want to clean the wound. Rinse it with warm water to rid it of any debris, then pat it dry with a clean towel or fresh paper towel. Whether the pad is punctured or torn, the VCA Animal Hospitals suggests using mild anti-bacterial soap or betadine to disinfect the wound, and if there's bleeding you can control it by putting pressure to the wound with a clean towel. 

If there's a mild tear, it should stop bleeding rather quickly, but a deeper wound may take some time to heal and could reopen when your dog starts walking again. You can apply a very small amount of antibacterial ointment to the wound, but PetMD states you should avoid any product that has a corticosteroid, like hydrocortisone. 

Try to keep your dog from licking or wiping off the ointment for a little while - the longer the better. If they'll tolerate it, you can wrap it with a bandage. You'll want to clean the wound with an antiseptic solution several times a day for a week, applying the ointment after washing and drying the affected area. If it gets worse or doesn't improve, call your vet!

 Can you put hand sanitizer on your dog? 

The short answer is NO. With COVID anxiety, it's understandable that owners would want to clean their dog's paws, but hand sanitizer is not safe for dogs. In July 2020, the FDA issued a Tweet telling pet owners to not use hand sanitizer on their pet's paws as "it can cause poisoning if absorbed through the skin" and "can make your dog sick if eaten." 

How to clean dog paws that smell

If you're a dog owner, you may have heard the term "Frito feet" before. Many people who own dogs say that their pooch's feet smell like the famous Frito chip. Believe it or not, this is a normal dog smell, which is akin to dog body odor. The Frito smell is caused by a mix of bacteria and yeast that's perfectly normal to dogs. 

However, if your dog seems to be favoring a foot or licking it profusely, you may want to bring your dog to the vet to make sure there aren't any harmful infections going on there. And if you don't like the smell of Frito feet, the Waunakee Vet Clinic suggests you wash them once weekly with mild dog shampoo, or use a dog wipe regularly. 

But don't forget, smelly Frito feet are perfectly normal for dogs!

If you found this feature helpful check out Why do dogs have dewclaws and should they be removed?

If you are about to take home a beautifully fluffy double-coated dog, or you’re considering it, you might be wondering how to groom and care for dogs with this type of coat. You might also be wondering whether you’ve got the time to spend keeping their impressive coat in tip-top shape or exactly what type of dog brush you should use for the job.

So, what does it mean when a dog has a double coat? How do you know if your dog is single or double-coated? And what do you need to know about caring for your extra-furry family member?

What is a double-coated dog? 

A dog with a double coat has two layers of fur. The first layer, closest to the skin, is the undercoat. The undercoat is a dense layer of short, soft fur that grows very quickly and keeps your dog warm in cold weather and cool in warm weather. The second layer is the topcoat, and by comparison, it is longer and slower growing than the undercoat. Its purpose is to protect the undercoat and the underlying skin from dirt, debris, and wetness.

How to tell if a dog has a double coat 

If you own a dog already, you might be wondering how to tell whether your dog is single or double-coated? Well, before you start researching their breed, there is an easy way to find out. Start by using your hand to stroke backward against the direction of their fur.

When you do this, if they have a single coat, you'll see patches of their skin, and all of their hair will be the same length. If they have a double coat, you won't see their skin so easily, and instead, you'll see a dense layer of shorter, fluffier fur. You'll also find that the hair lies flatter on single-coated dogs than on those who are double-coated.

When do double-coated dogs shed? 

Double-coated dogs will tend to shed twice a year. They will lose their winter coat as the weather is warming up in the spring, and they will lose their summer coat while the weather is cooling in autumn (fall).

Shedding typically lasts between two and four weeks each time. During shedding, you'll notice their undercoat coming away, and they must be brushed regularly to remove the fur they have released. If they are not regularly brushed, they will develop mats and tight knots, which can be painful.

Which dog breeds are double-coated? 

Here are some examples of double-coated dog breeds:

• Akita
• Australian Shepherd
• Border Collie
• Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
• Chow Chow
• Corgi
• German Shepherd
• German Spitz
• Golden Retriever
• Japanese Spitz
• Labrador Retriever
• Leonberger
• Newfoundland
• Old English Sheepdog
• Pomeranian
• Pyrenean Mountain Dog
• St Bernard
• Samoyed
• Shetland Sheepdog
• Shiba Inu
• Siberian Husky

Should double-coated dogs be groomed? 

Most dogs require at least some grooming here and there, but it's essential to groom double-coated dogs. Double-coated dogs have such thick fur that daily or every other day brushing is essential, especially while they are shedding.

How to groom a double-coated dog 

Although home care is important, you can’t do it all yourself! It’s recommended to take your pampered pooch to a qualified groomer every 6-8 weeks for a shampoo, undercoat strip, and clip. However, here’s what you can be doing at home to keep your fluffy friend’s coat healthy and tangle-free:

• You should brush your dog at least every other day to prevent mats from developing. During shedding, aim for daily brushing with one of the best dog brushes if you can.
• Use an undercoat-removing rake as part of your brushing routine. This will get rid of the dead undercoat hairs that are trapped in the coat.
• Use a comb to remove loose or dead hairs from the topcoat.
• Locate any tangled areas where mats are forming and use a wide-tooth comb to loosen the edges gently. Start with the portion of the mat that is furthest from the skin and work gradually closer to the skin. Be patient and give your dog a break regularly if they seem distressed. After all, tight mats can be pretty painful.
• If you can’t loosen and brush out a matt, you should contact your groomer.
• Never use scissors to try to trim out a matt. It's very easy to cut the skin accidentally.
• Once your canine companion is sleek and mat-free, use a bristled brush to distribute the natural oils throughout the coat.

Should you shave a double-coated dog? 

It's vital to avoid shaving your double-coated dog if you possibly can. The double-coat is crucial for helping your dog cope in both warm and cold temperatures and also helps regulate their metabolism and protects them from UV rays from the sun. Occasionally, shaving your dog's coat is unavoidable, for example, if their coat is severely matted.

How to care for double-coated dogs in hot weather 

Although the undercoat helps to keep your dog cool in warmer weather, double-coated dogs can still be prone to overheating in extreme temperatures. So, if it’s warm, it’s sensible to provide plenty of water and shade and change the timings of walks to be early in the morning or late at night.

How to care for double-coated dogs in colder weather 

A double coat will help keep dogs warm when it’s freezing outside. However, that’s not to say that double-coated dogs can’t suffer from hypothermia or frostbite if the temperature drops really low. It’s best to ensure your dog has shelter from the elements, whether that’s an outbuilding or a cosy bed inside by the fire!

If you're taking your dog out in cold temperatures, you might want to consider whether or not your dog needs a coat.

Conclusion

A dog's double coat is remarkable – it keeps them cool in the summer and warm in the winter, as well as protecting your pooch from the elements. For the two layers of fur to do their job, they should be maintained with regular grooming. It can be a lot of work, but it's worth it to keep your furry friend's haircoat free from mats and tangles.

Every dog is unique, and that’s partly down to the huge range of dog coat types out there. You’ll have noticed curly coats and short-haired coats and big, thick, double coats when out walking your dog.

And, if your dog has one of the harder-to-care-for coat types, it’s likely you’ve spent some time getting familiar with your dog’s fur. So, just how many dog coat types are there? And are some easier to care for than others?

Whether you've got a long-haired hound or one with a wiry coat, this article will show you how to groom your dog no matter what coat type they've got, including understanding a dog's hair type and what the best dog brush is for the job!

Understanding coat types

While dog hair has the same basic microscopic structure, how those hairs are combined and minor differences in the anatomy can make a huge difference to how your dog’s coat looks and feels.

Not only does the length of the hair have an impact, but the presence of an undercoat or the absence of a slight curl can turn a low-shedding dog breed into a hair monster. Although dogs may have been bred to have a particular coat type because of the way it looks, most breeds have been bred for a purpose – be that snow survival or retrieving in water – and their coats will often reflect this.

Coat type is inherited – a puppy will have the coat type of his parents. But reality is a little more complex. Whilst purebred dogs usually have predictable coats due to hundreds of years of careful breeding, mixed-breed dogs, like Cockapoos and Labradoodles, can have very unpredictable coat types.

Puppies can have the coat type of one parent, or a combination of the two, depending which genes they inherit and which are dominant. And any puppies from that dog can have a coat type like his parents, or like his grandparents – it can be quite a shock when a litter of Labrador coats is born to Labradoodle parents!

How are coat colors, patterns, and markings inherited?

If inheritance of coat type is complex, then the inheritance of coat color is an enigma! The patterns and markings on dog coats add even further to their variety, and ‘rare’ colors are highly sought after.

Purebred dogs have to have a predictable ‘look’ – which is how to breed standard came to be. If you look at any breed registered with The Kennel Club, you’ll see that they have certain colors and color combinations that are allowed.

In some breeds, this color selection may be very limited. Pugs, for instance, are only allowed four colors to fit the breed standard – fawn, apricot, silver with black masks, or black all over. Any other color is non-standard and is not recommended for breeding. In others, the color options are huge – Border Collies register over 50 accepted colors and markings!

It’s worth researching coat color in your chosen breed before buying, as breeders often promote non-standard colors as being ‘rare’ and therefore more desirable. In fact, some breeders are purposefully breeding non-standard colors together to try to reliably produce ‘rare’ dogs, resulting in dogs with a very small gene pool that could have hidden genetic problems.

Types of dog coat

With such a huge number of dog breeds, describing coat type in dogs can be difficult. In order to simplify things, dog coats are usually categorized into five types.

These ‘dog coat types’ vary in thickness, length, and curl. Whilst some dogs are easy to categorize, many popular breeds fit into more than one category. Let’s take a look at them below:

Short-haired dogs

Smooth-coated dog coats are the easiest to care for. They have thin fur that sits close to the skin and is short, sleek, and smooth-feeling. Generally, fur length in smooth-coated breeds is no more than a couple of centimeters.

While they shed twice a year and lose hair throughout, short-haired dog breeds have less hair than some other coats and tend to make less mess than double-coated breeds and long-coated breeds. Popular smooth-coated dog breeds include:

• Chihuahua
• Great Dane
• Pug
• Bulldog
• Boxer
• Doberman
• Staffordshire Bull Terrier
• Beagle

Double-coated dog coats 

Double-coated dogs tend to have thick, shaggy fur due to a thick undercoat and a top coat of ‘guard hairs’. These dogs have a lot more hair than a smooth-coated dog, so require more care to keep on top of the coat, and are prone to dramatic shedding known as a ‘seasonal blowout’.

The double coat serves to insulate these dogs from cold weather, so these coats usually belong to breeds bred for working in the North, or at high altitudes. Examples include:

• Newfoundland
• Great Pyrenees
• Akita
• Chow chow
• Leonberger
• Pekingnese

Long-haired dogs

In long-haired dog breeds, each individual hair is quite long. And depending on whether the hair is smooth or rough can result in a silky coat or a rougher, more wiry texture. Dog breeds with long coats need regular home care to make sure their long locks don’t get tangled.

Whilst they don’t shed any more than smooth-haired dogs, their hairs are much longer and may be more noticeable. Examples of long-coated dog breeds include:

• Golden Retriever
• Springer Spaniel
• Afghan Hound
• German Shepherd
• Shih Tzu
• Yorkshire Terrier
• Flat-coated Retriever

Wire haired dog breeds

Then we have wirehaired dog breeds. These dogs have an outer layer of rough hair, giving them a bristly look and feel. These dogs tend to shed less than other dog breeds and eventually need ‘stripping’, where the outer hair layer is removed by hand to make room for the new layer. Common breeds with wire coats include:

• Border Terrier
• Wirehaired dachshund
• Irish Wolfhound
• Wirehaired Jack Russell Terrier
• Patterdale Terrier

Curly-coated dogs 

Lastly, we have the curly-coated dog breeds. These dogs usually have tight curls in their coat, originally bred in to improve water repellence. However, more recently these coats have been praised for being low-shedding, making them hypoallergenic dog breeds (meaning they are less likely to cause allergies for some people).

Despite this, they can require a lot of care, both at home and in the grooming salon. Dog breeds with curly coats include:

• Poodles (and sometimes their crosses – Labradoodles, Cockapoos, Goldendoodles, Poochons etc)
• Bichon Frise
• Portuguese Water Dogs
• Airedale Terrier
• Welsh Terrier
• Bedlington Terrier

How to care for each coat type 

With all these different types of dog coat, it can be hard to know where to start with grooming and different types of dog brush. First, try to identify the type of coat your dog has. If you’re stuck, you can ask a dog groomer or your vet to help you. Next, just follow these steps for grooming different dog coat types:

Short haired dog breeds 

Brushing once or twice a week with a soft bristle brush is usually all that is needed for smooth-coated dog breeds. You may need to use a rubber brush when your dog is molting.

Here’s more advice on how to groom short-coated dog breeds.

Double-coated dog breeds 

Double-coated dog breeds benefit from grooming with a de-shedding rake before brushing, in order to remove dead hair from the undercoat. Matts and tangles can form quickly, especially in shedding season, so brushing daily or every other day is a good idea.

Here’s more advice on grooming double-coated dog breeds.

Long-haired dog breeds 

Dogs with long coats tangle easily. A detangling comb, carefully worked through any knots, is sensible before moving onto a brush. A slicker brush works well for these dogs, followed by a soft brush if you have a soft-coated long-haired dog, to bring out the shine. Daily brushing is recommended to remove bits of undergrowth before they turn into tangles and mats.

Wirehaired dogs 

Dogs with wire coats need little care throughout the year – weekly or biweekly brushing with a slicker brush or rubber brush keeps the coat in good condition. However, the dead hair will occasionally need removing using a stripping brush or by hand-stripping.

The frequency of stripping depends on your method and your dog’s coat – many dogs require this annually, but others will need it more frequently. Your groomer can show you how to hand-strip your dog’s coat if you aren’t sure how.

Curly-coated dogs 

Dogs with curly coats like poodles and poodle-crosses need the most care of all. It’s very common for dogs to be left matted and uncomfortable when people underestimate how much grooming a cockapoo needs. For those with short-clipped coat, a daily brush with a detangle comb or slicker brush is usually adequate. However, if you choose to let your dog’s hair grow longer, you’ll need to take extra care (and lots of extra time!) to make sure no tangles form.

There are lots of different dog coat types, as any walk down the street will show you. The huge range in looks is one of the things we love about dogs, but if you are considering buying a dog, it’s worth researching the amount of care your dog breed coat type will need as it can vary hugely.

Since dog coats can vary within a breed and especially with crossbreeds, it’s worth asking a dog groomer or vet for grooming tips if you aren’t sure what sort of coat your dog has.

Looking to improve your dog’s coat? Check out our guide to the best dog shampoos and best dog conditioners

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

If you’ve ever walked down the street and been struck by a stunningly shiny dog coat, you’re probably wondering how you can get your dog’s coat to be so shiny. Is it a breed thing, a food thing, a grooming regime, or straight-out magic? Actually, it’s probably a combination of all of these things! 

This article will detail ways to make your dog’s coat shiny, including tips that go beyond simply grooming your dog. Supplements, foods and even health considerations all factor in keeping your dog's coat healthy; there may be even be some occasions when your dog’s coat might be a hint that they need a vet visit.

What does a shiny coat on a dog mean?

There’s nothing nicer than a shiny coat on a dog and it’s usually taken to be a sign of good health! But is it? What makes a dog coat shine? And does a dull coat mean your dog isn’t healthy?

The lustrous ‘shine’ on hair – including our own – usually comes from skin oils. These coat the hairs and reflect light, making the coat almost appear to glow. A lot of what influences the shiny coat on a dog is making sure they have enough of these oils – but not too many! – and getting the oils to the right place to create the shine.

However, there are times when dog coats are bound to be less shiny. Dogs that are moulting and dogs needing their coat stripped have coats filled with dead hairs – these are naturally less shiny and can lead to a dull coat. White dogs can have very healthy skin and fur without getting much of a visible shine just due to the color of their fur. 

Some types of fur are naturally less shiny – it’s very hard to get a wirehaired dog to shine! Dogs that are prone to rolling in mud or dust often look less shiny because of a layer of dirt. Whilst this is easy enough to remove, some dogs will put it straight back again, making it very difficult to get a good shine!

Some illnesses can also cause a dog coat to be less shiny. Any illness increasing hair loss or affecting the skin can cause a dull coat, so the list is long! The most common medical reasons for a dull coat in dogs are:

• Skin allergies
• Fleas and other parasites
• Obesity
• Arthritis
• IBD and other digestive disorders
• Alopecia (hair loss)

How to improve dog hair growth

If your dog’s hair is sparse, that might explain why they have no shine. Thin hair, brittle and broken hairs, and half-regrown hairs all reduce shine. Getting your dog’s hair to grow back thick and fast can be difficult, but many of the methods for increasing shine will help. For instance, ensuring the skin is parasite-free, and the diet is optimised for skin and coat health will improve your dog’s hair growth.

Ways to make your dog’s coat shiny

So now we know some of the reasons why your dog’s coat is dull, let’s look at how to make your dog’s coat shiny. 

You may need to try several of these home remedies for a shiny coat, and some of them can take a while to work – so don’t give up too soon! 

1. Change diet

To grow a healthy, shiny dog coat, your dog needs the right nutrition. He should be on a complete and balanced diet suitable for his age and breed. He should be eating the right amount of calories for his ideal body weight. He should also be able to digest it properly – even the most expensive, most complicated dog food is no good if it doesn’t agree with your dog and causes flatulence or diarrhea. 

For extra shine, you can reach for diets created for skin and coat health. These usually have salmon and/or salmon oil in. However, it’s more important to get his base diet right and agreeing with him – you can use supplements to add extra nutrients to nourish the coat.

2. Check for obesity

Dogs that are obese are more prone to having dull coats. Whilst they aren’t as fastidious about their grooming regime as cats, dogs do still clean themselves – and obesity prevents this. Obesity also causes inflammation throughout the body, meaning your dog’s skin will be less healthy and he’ll be less able to use the nutrition in his food. Ask your veterinary practice to check your pet’s weight. It’s usually free to have a consultation with a nurse to discuss your pet’s ideal weight and any necessary diet!

3. Add in supplements

Unless you’re feeding a food designed for skin and coat health, you might want to consider adding supplements to your dog’s diet. These supplements ensure your dog has everything he needs to get his skin and coat healthy. 

You need to find skin supplements with Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. Ideally these should come from a fish source rather than a plant source, as there’s some evidence that dogs can better utilize these nutrients from animal sources. However, good skin supplements may also contain Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Zinc, and Biotin.

4. Groom every day and choose the right grooming brush 

Grooming helps to move the skin oils over the hair to create shine. It also removes dirt and dust, which can cause a coat to become dull. For the shiniest coat, your dog needs daily brushing. You’ll also need to choose the right brush for the job – check out our guide to the best dog brushes to help you decide. A soft brush works best for moving oils, but you’ll need to detangle first. And, if your dog is molting or has a thick double coat, you’ll need a de-shedding tool.

5. Bathing at the right frequency for your dog

Bathing too often can strip the oils from the skin, causing irritation and removing shine. Unless your dog has a medical condition requiring frequent bathing, it’s best to keep bathing to a minimum. Depending on your dog’s coat type, this might be weekly, fortnightly, monthly, or less often. Ask your vet or a dog groomer if you aren’t sure.

When you do bathe your dog, you need to find a good shampoo for shine. Ideally, this should be as mild as possible, pH balanced for dog skin, and containing conditioning ingredients such as coconut. 

6. Work on your dog’s mental health

Dogs with anxiety and stress are prone to skin and coat conditions. Some dogs with anxiety will lick often – causing broken hairs, skin infections, and even bald spots. Others will have a lacklustre coat with no shine. If you’ve tried everything else here, the next step is to consider your dog’s mental health. Are they bored? Stressed? Anxious? Talking to a canine behaviourist may help you to get to the bottom of what’s going on.

Conclusion

Hopefully these tips to get a shiny dog coat will give you a show-ready dog coat to be proud of. However, don’t forget that these things take time – changing diet and nutrition for optimal coat condition can take 6-10 weeks to show an effect, and even then you may have to contend with moulting, an obesity plan, and behavioral issues.

If you’re struggling to get your dog’s coat to be shiny, book a check-up with your vet, who may be able to help.

If your young puppy has just got back from their first muddy walk, you might be wondering how to give a dog a bath. Fortunately, it’s a relatively straightforward process, if you have prepared correctly.

Selecting the best dog shampoo for your pup – and possibly pairing it with one of the best dog conditioners – will make the process much easier. So too will ensuring you have you have all the necessary supplies to make bathing your dog a breeze. Additionally, devote some time to thinking about how you can make bath time as stress-free and rewarding for your dog as possible, particularly if your dog hates baths.

Read on for top tips on how to keep your canine companion calm during their bath time, as well as providing a step-by-step guide to bathing your dog so that each and every time will be a success.

How to bath a dog: Step-by-step

Once you have decided where you are going to bathe your dog, be sure that you have all the supplies you will need within arm’s reach. Include shampoo, conditioner (if recommended by your vet), towels, and some of the best dog treats.

If you are bathing your dog in a sink or bathtub, consider using a no-skid mat to provide comfortable footing for your dog. Taking a few minutes to prepare in advance will make bath time less stressful, while also decreasing the likelihood that you have to step away from your dog during the bath.

 How to give a dog a bath: Step-by-step

1. Soak your dog's coat

Bathing your dog is similar to washing your own hair. First, soak your dog’s coat thoroughly in water. Try to avoid getting water in your dog’s eyes and ears. Water in the eyes can be irritating to your dog. Water down in the ear canals can increase the likelihood of your dog developing an ear infection.

2. Apply a small amount of shampoo

Once your dog’s coat is thoroughly soaked with water, apply a small amount of shampoo. Depending on your dog’s size and coat length, you may need a dime-sized to silver dollar-sized amount of dog shampoo.

Work this shampoo into a lather and massage it into your dog’s coat, including the entire body and even the areas between the toes. Depending on how dirty your dog is, you may choose to do a brief rinse mid-bath and repeat the entire scrubbing process a second time, to remove all dirt and oil from your dog’s coat. Be careful to keep shampoo out of your dog’s eyes and ears during this process.

3. Examine their skin

Bathtime is an excellent opportunity to carefully look over your dog’s skin, because you will have your hands all over your dog as you scrub them. Take note of any new lumps or bumps, while also looking for wounds or other skin lesions. If you see anything that is new or concerning, contact your vet to schedule a thorough physical examination.

4. Rinse thoroughly

After bathing, rinse them thoroughly to remove any shampoo residue. This residue can cause skin irritation. This skin irritation can lead to itching, redness, and hot spots. Finally, allow your dog to shake off thoroughly. This will remove much of the water from their coat. Once they have shaken several times, you can towel-dry your dog.

If your dog has long hair, you should comb their hair thoroughly after bathing. Consider using a hair dryer to help dry the coat more quickly and prevent tangling.

5. Consider an ear cleaner

If your dog is prone to ear infections or you think they may have ended up with water in their ears during the bathing process, flush the ears thoroughly with ear cleaner. Cleaners can be purchased over-the-counter, but it’s best to talk to your veterinarian first because they may have a specific recommendation for your dog. Cleaning a dog’s ears after a bath will help remove moisture from the ears, reducing the risk of infection.

How to help your dog enjoy baths

You will give your dog many baths over their lifetime. Therefore, it will probably pay off to make a conscious effort to make bath time as fun and rewarding for your dog as possible. If your dog loves baths and sees them as a pleasant experience, it is less likely that you will have to chase him around the house when it’s time for a bath.

A dog that enjoys baths is also less likely to try to escape from you during bathing, making it less likely that your dog will injure themselves in the bathtub and less likely that you will become scratched while trying to restrain your dog.

Use food as motivation

Dogs are often motivated by food, making treats an easy way to turn a potentially negative experience (like a bath) into a pleasant experience. Select a treat that your dog loves and offer your dog frequent treats throughout their bath, especially when they are being well-behaved and cooperative.

Try to avoid giving treats when your dog is trying to escape or showing other undesired behaviors, because you don’t want to inadvertently reward uncooperative behavior!

If you use a bathtub for your dog’s baths, consider smearing peanut butter on the edge of the tub at your dog’s eye level (or on a lick mat with suction pads like this one from Amazon). Not only will this provide your dog with constant treats and a positive experience, most dogs will stand relatively still while licking the peanut butter. This will make bath time easier for both of you!

Note: Avoid using sugar-free peanut butter, because it may contain a substance called xylitol that is toxic to dogs.

Preparation is key

While you may think you know how to give a dog a bath, it pays to take time to give the issue some conscious thought. Prepare your bath location and ensure that you have all of the necessary supplies before starting.

Give some consideration to how you can make the experience as pleasant as possible for your dog. These simple steps can make bathtime more pleasant for both you and your dog.

How do I choose the right shampoo?

Before bathing your dog, you will need to select a shampoo for your dog’s coat type. Use a pet shampoo that is made specifically for dogs. While you might think that using a human shampoo on dogs would be gentle enough for your canine companion, many human shampoos are far too harsh for a dog’s skin and coat. Even baby shampoo on dogs should be avoided.

Human skin has a lower pH than dog skin, so human shampoo is often too acidic for a dog’s skin and coat. Humans also have thicker skin than dogs, so shampoos that are made for thick human skin can damage a dog’s thin skin, especially when used repeatedly over time.

How to wash a dog with a skin condition

If your dog has a history of skin conditions, such as allergies, ask your veterinarian to recommend the best shampoo for your dog. Your veterinarian may select a prescription shampoo for your dog. Prescription shampoos often contain topical antihistamines and antiseptics, intended to treat or prevent skin inflammation as well as bacterial and/or yeast infections.

If your dog doesn’t need a prescription shampoo, ask your veterinarian which features would benefit your dog in an over-the-counter dog shampoo. For example, many dogs with skin allergies or especially sensitive skin respond well to a soothing, soap-free, aloe and oatmeal-based shampoo. Dogs with healthy skin and a healthy coat may do well with nearly any over-the-counter shampoo, so you can use a bit of trial and error to find the shampoo that leaves your dog with the softest and best-smelling coat possible.

If you suspect your dog may be allergic to some products, ask your vet or read up on dog shampoo allergies.

Should I use a flea and tick shampoo for dogs?

In general, flea and tick shampoos should be avoided on dogs. At their best, they tend to be ineffective at controlling parasites and therefore a waste of your hard-earned money. At their worst, they can cause significant skin irritation, especially in dogs with sensitive skin.

If you are concerned that your dog may have fleas or ticks, talk to your veterinarian about prescribing the best flea treatment for dogs. A long-acting flea and tick preventative will be far more effective than flea and tick shampoo, while also being much more gentle on your dog’s skin and coat.

Should I bath my dog indoors or outdoors?

An important part of knowing how to give a dog a bath is deciding where you are going to bathe your dog. Small dogs are often bathed in their owner’s bathtub or kitchen sink. If you have a larger dog and the outside temperature is above roughly 80°F, you can bathe your dog outside.

Bathing your dog outside can offer several advantages. First, your dog will not shake water all over your home, cutting down on your clean-up time. You also will not have to clear dog hair from your bathtub drain or risk clogging your drains.

Finally, you can even take your dog for a walk in the sunshine to help them dry off. If the weather or even the water from your hose is cold, however, even a large dog should be bathed indoors. You don’t want your dog’s bath to be uncomfortable or risk hypothermia.

Wondering how often you should bathe a puppy? This feature is worth the read.

If your hairy hound flees at the sight of your grooming kit, then knowing how to brush a dog that hates being brushed can be an essential skill. 

Grooming is a great way to get rid of excess fur, dirt, debris; it keeps their hair glossy and their skin healthy and it should be a great way to bond with your four-legged friend, but it can become a challenge if your dog shies away or turns aggressive. 

Many dogs have an aversion to being groomed, but there are a few ways for you to teach your furry friend that grooming is a positive thing, and one they can learn to accept and enjoy. 

From knowing how to groom a dog, to choosing the right brush for your pooch and building a positive association with the act of grooming, this article will explain why your dog dislikes being brushed and what you can do to help them embrace it.    

Why doesn't your dog like being brushed? 

1. Bad experience

There are various reasons for your dog to be bounding away and hiding behind the sofa at the sign of a brush. Dogs have long memories for things that have hurt them or scared them in the past, and if they associate those feelings with the shape of a brush, they know to stay away. 

For some reason they are feeling fear, anxiety or stress connected to the experience of being brushed. It's possible they've had a bad brushing experience before, that they have sensitive skin which means rigorous brushing hurts, or that they associate a brush in the hand as potential sign of mistreatment.

2. Boredom 

It may be even simpler than that though: some dogs may just recognise the brush as signalling a time where they have to lie still when they could be up, exploring, running around and enjoying themselves. They may just feel that they are too busy for all this sitting down business! 

3. Wrong choice of brush

It may also be your choice of brush: if it is too hard or the bristles are too sharp, they may find it uncomfortable and so aren't keen to have it next to their skin. 

Fortunately, there are a variety of brushes to choose from, so you can try a softer brush first, or a dog grooming glove for a more intimate grooming experience. Our list of the best dog brushes will give you a good place to start to find one to suit your furry friend.

Whatever the reason your dog avoids being groomed, if you go about it in a gentle and loving way you can soon have your dog understanding that brushing is nothing to be feared or avoided.

How to brush an uncooperative dog 

If your dog backs away or cowers at the sight of a dog brush, you need to teach your dog that the brush isn't a bad thing. To do this you need to build a positive association with the brush:

1. Find a large, enclosed place 

Look for a place where your four-legged friend has room to move freely and back away, but not run away completely. The kitchen, or the area where you feed them food, is good for this as they will already have good associations with this space. A patio or garden is also ideal. 

2. Fill your pocket or a protective bag with treats 

You'll need quite a few treats but you only want your dog to get access to them when you want them to. If you are worried about giving them too many treats, just take part of their dinner to treat them with.

A couple of the best dog treats shouldn't harm them though, and are more likely to entice them to do what you want them to do. 

 3. Get on the same level as your dog 

With the brush in your hand, sit down so you are on the same level – not brandishing it, just laying it limply on your lap. Entice them over with a treat. Patience is the key here. This is all about gaining the dog's trust so don't force them over or get frustrated that they aren't doing what you want. This will just reinforce bad associations with the brush. 

Instead let them come forward – it must be their choice to come near the brush to get to the treat. Reinforce that the behavior is good by praising them when they do. 

4. Get them used to the brush

Once they are pretty much ignoring the brush to get to the treat, throw a treat away to get them to move away and reposition the brush so it is above where the dog will be when they come back to get another treat. Again, entice them over, giving them time to do so on their own terms.

Once they are ignoring the brush above them, lower the brush to head height, so they have to push past it to get to the treat. This can take a few brush introduction sessions before they are doing this naturally, so, as always, be patient. 

5. Start small and distract

Once they have learnt that the brush isn't to be feared, it's time to actually start doing some brushing. Start with just a small area first, letting them get used to the brush and rewarding them every time they stay to be groomed. 

Another good way of distracting your dog if they are still being skittish during grooming is to give them something too good to miss out on, but which they can't wolf down all at once. 

A good one for this is peanut butter on a spoon, or a slowly dispensing dog paste in a tube, both of which will take longer for them to lick away at, and keep them happy while you brush them.

6. Reduce the number of treats 

Over time you can reduce the number of treats by replacing them with lavish praise. Soon, cowering from the dog brush will be a thing of the past, and your dog can enjoy you looking after them in this way. 

If you're a dog parent, you probably have a doggy 'to-do' list, including daily walks, regular tooth brushing and grooming, and monthly parasite treatments. But when it comes to grooming, how often should you brush your dog?

The amount of brushing that your dog needs will depend on their coat type length and whether it’s curly or straight. It will also vary depending on your dog's lifestyle. For example, if your dog goes out for muddy walks regularly or enjoys a paddle in the river, they’re likely to need a lot more brushing than dogs who spend most of their time walking on pavements and footpaths. 

What are the benefits of brushing your dog?

Brushing your dog's hair coat doesn't just help remove dried dirt, mud, and debris; it also keeps the skin and fur healthy. The act of brushing will improve airflow to the skin itself and remove any build-up of the oils produced by the skin. As the oil is brushed from the skin surface, it will be distributed along each hair shaft, keeping the coat glossy and healthy-looking. Brushing prevents knots and mats from forming within the haircoat and removes any scabs or crusts on the skin surface. Using a specialist brush to remove the dead undercoat will also help to increase airflow to the skin and prevent dandruff and skin infections. Of course, brushing your dog regularly will also help you spot any lumps and bumps, wounds, or even parasites like fleas!

How to brush a dog's coat

If your dog is muddy or wet, it’s best to wait until they’re dry to brush them. Many dogs enjoy being groomed because it gives them quiet one on one time with their owner. However, if your dog isn’t such a fan and scarpers as soon as they see you holding a brush, you might need someone to help you.

1. Try to brush your dog when they are as calm as possible and reassure them if they are reluctant.
2. If your dog dislikes being brushed and is reactive, take it slowly and stop as soon as they’ve had enough.
3. Use an appropriate type of dog brush for their coat type.
4. If your dog has a lot of loose undercoat hair, use an undercoat brush to remove it.
5. Brush gently from root to tip, holding the base of the hairs if you meet resistance to avoid pulling the skin.
6. Take care in sensitive areas like the ears, armpits, groin, rear, and around the face.

How often should you brush your dog based on coat type?

The amount of brushing that your dog needs will depend on their coat type. To avoid brushing unnecessarily or not brushing enough, you should check your canine companion’s coat type below:

Curly coats

Dogs with curly haircoats require the most grooming of all hair types, and this is due to their tendency to form knots and mats. It's especially common for them to get matted in areas with high movement, such as around their ears, armpits, groin, and bottom. Curly-coated dogs should be brushed at least once a day, taking care to gently tease out any knots rather than pulling.

Short smooth coats

Short-haired, smooth-coated dogs require comparatively less grooming than curly-coated breeds. So, if you own a Dobermann, a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, or a smooth-coated Dachshund, you can breathe a sigh of relief. With this type of hair coat, you probably only need to reach for a dog brush if your dog has dried mud or dirt on them, or if they are shedding.

• A vet's guide to brushing short-haired dogs

Long smooth coats

Dogs with a long, smooth coat require a moderate amount of grooming. Although mats aren't formed as quickly as with curly coats, your dog will still develop these tight tangles without regular brushing. Dogs with this coat type include Spaniels and Golden Retrievers. A good rule would be to brush your dog at least every two or three days, paying particular attention to the areas around their ears, legs, and rear end where mats are most prone to forming. During the late summer and autumn, you may find you have to brush your dog more often to remove vegetation such as brambles, burrs, and grass seeds that get stuck in the fur and cause mats or irritate the skin.

Hairless dogs

Despite the name, most 'hairless' breeds are not completely hairless! The remaining hair can be patchy and sporadic and is often coarse and wiry in texture. These breeds usually have hair around their face. So, it's important to brush any food or dribble from around their mouth and keep their eyes and ears clear of crusty debris.

So, can you brush your dog too much?

How often you should brush your dog depends on their lifestyle as well as their coat type. There's no denying it's really important to brush your dog if they have a long or curly coat. However, it's best to keep brushing sessions to a reasonable length since overbrushing can cause pain or even damage the skin. Therefore, brushing the same area for lengthy periods should be avoided. If you notice your dog's skin becoming red or sore during grooming, especially in areas where the skin is thin, sensitive, or fragile, you should stop for a while and return when the skin has calmed down. On the other hand, if you regularly find that your dog's skin looks red or sore, or if there's an offensive smell, you should contact your veterinarian for advice. 

Here’s more advice on how to groom a dog, plus our guide to the best dog brushes

Perhaps you’ve got a new puppy and need to know how to groom a dog. Or maybe you’re affected by COVID restrictions, and you can’t visit the groomer anymore. Either way, you probably need to know how to look after your dog’s coat.

Some dogs need brushing daily, others don’t need as much care – it all depends on your dog’s coat type. You’ll need to get yourself one of the best dog brushes you can find and also consider bathing, clipping, and brushing your dog’s teeth. Use the time to check your dog over carefully for lumps, skin problems, and ticks, as well as for bonding with lots of cuddles and treats.

How to restrain your dog for grooming 

Before you go ahead and start grooming your dog, you’ll need to make sure your dog is safely restrained. Most dogs learn to tolerate grooming well, but even if they love it you should still restrain them, as moving at the wrong time could be dangerous! The easiest way to restrain your dog for grooming is by enlisting a friend to hold them still for you.

Ideally, they should be able to position the dog by encouraging them to stand, but the most important thing is that they prevent the dog from moving suddenly, and have some control of the head. If you don’t have an easily-available extra pair of hands, you can buy harnesses and dog tables designed to hold your dog still whilst you groom them. If you’re only brushing your dog, it’s unlikely these tables will be needed, but if you’re clipping, using scissors, or cutting their nails, good restraint is essential.

Some dogs will dislike grooming enough that a muzzle might be necessary as a safety measure. It’s a good idea to teach your dog to enjoy wearing the muzzle to reduce stress – positive muzzle training is useful for this!

Brushing your dog

The cornerstone of grooming is a good brush. Just like in humans, brushing keeps the hair from becoming tangled and matted, which can be uncomfortable and lead to sore skin. It also spreads the skin oils over the coat to improve water resistance and shine.

Different dog coat types have different requirements. For short-haired dogs, you may get away with brushing weekly. Longer-coated dogs will need brushing more often – and sometimes daily! Choose the right brush and the right method to avoid hurting your dog when brushing them.

Get the right brush for your dog's coat

There are a lot of different types of dog brush, and you need to find the right one to suit your dog’s coat. Most dogs will need a soft bristle brush at some point, so getting one of those is a good place to start. Dogs with a long coat will also need a rake or metal comb to remove the tangles. Double-coated breeds and those prone to shedding may need an undercoat brush. You’ll find a slicker brush useful for curly-coated breeds such as poodles and poodle-crosses. Wire-haired dogs may need a stripping knife- although in my experience it’s best to leave stripping to a groomer!

How to brush your dog

If your dog isn’t used to being brushed, you may need to introduce them to it slowly. Show them how fun it is by providing plenty of the best dog treats and praise. Many dogs can be a bit nervous about their legs or underside being groomed, so it’s best to start with the neck and shoulders – areas that they’re used to being touched. Work backwards, over the back, and then down the sides to the undercarriage. You can then gently brush the face and head if needed.

For most dogs, a once-over with a soft bristle brush and a quick detangle of problem areas with a comb is all they need. You’ll soon work out how often your dog needs brushing, and also where your dog’s trouble areas are – check under the armpits and in the groin for tangles, and spaniels and other long-eared dogs are prone to getting matts behind their ears.

Cutting and clipping your dog's coat

Whilst you might prefer to leave the cutting of your dog’s coat to a breeder, you may find you have to have a go yourself at times. Short-coated breeds and smooth coats rarely need clipping, but longer coats and poodles will often need regular clipping.

If you’re going to clip your dog’s coat yourself, you should get a pair of electric clippers (human ones are fine) with varying guard lengths. It may take some practice to find the right guard length for your dog – it’s best to start with the longest guards and change them down until you get the length you want. Avoid using scissors unless you are very experienced, as sharp objects can be dangerous if your dog wriggles.

Getting your dog used to the clippers

If your dog isn’t used to having his coat clipped, especially if you have a new puppy or a rescue, you may need to practice a few times until they aren’t afraid of the clippers. Many dogs are afraid of the noise they make!

Just as with anything new and potentially scary, you should start as small and innocuous as possible – perhaps simply holding the clippers up, turned off, for them to see – then giving them a treat. Work up slowly to avoid scaring your dog. When you do start clipping, avoid the head and ears, as many dogs will be frightened by the buzzing of clippers behind their ears.

Bathing your dog

Some dogs will need more regular bathing than others. Dogs that have skin problems such as allergies may need twice weekly bathing, whilst many others will only need doing when they’re dirty – although if you own a white dog that loves the mud you might still find yourself bathing your dog regularly!

Try not to bathe your dog too often – most shampoos will strip natural skin oils and cause skin problems. Unless they’ve rolled in something, have become very dirty, or have a medical condition, look to bathe your dog more than once a month.

Choosing the right shampoo for your dog

Any generic dog shampoo will be suitable for most dogs – take a look at our guide to the best dog shampoo. Try to find one with fewer ingredients and fragrances to reduce the chance of your dog reacting to the shampoo. If you have a puppy, choose puppy shampoo, which is very gentle. Itchy dogs should have different shampoos too – either a soothing shampoo (oatmeal and aloe vera are my favourite ingredients) or a medicated shampoo recommended by your vet.

How to bathe your dog

Depending on the size of your dog, you may want to use a bathtub, sink, or special tub to bathe your dog in. Dogs can also be bathed in the shower, especially if you have a walk-in shower. Make sure you use warm, but not hot- water, as this will make it more pleasant for your dog. Despite this, many dogs will be scared of the bath the first time – give lots of praise, fuss, and treats to help them cope.

Wet your dog thoroughly, being sure to wet the undercoat. Then apply the shampoo. Massage in and leave to work according to the instructions on the bottle. Make sure you rinse thoroughly to avoid causing skin problems.

How to groom your dog’s face 

When it comes to grooming your dog’s face, this is sometimes best left to the professionals. Using clippers, scissors, and other tools so close to the eyes can be dangerous. You’re also likely to be very close to your dog’s face, which they find intimidating and threatening. It’s difficult to muzzle a dog for grooming their face, so if you feel at all unsure you should talk to a professional groomer.

For many short-haired dogs, you don’t need to groom their face at all. Since most dogs dislike having their faces groomed, it’s best to leave well alone if it doesn’t need doing. If your dog has longer hair — particularly if it’s growing into and around their eyes and obscuring their vision — you may need to use a pair of scissors to very carefully trim the fur away and neaten it up.

• Ask a partner to hold your dog still, as any movement could be dangerous
• Your non-dominant hand should gently grasp your dog’s muzzle to steady them and prevent them from sudden movements. Take care not to obstruct the airways — short-nosed dogs in particular will dislike having their snouts held. Again, if you can’t do this safely it’s best left to the professionals — grooming injuries can be serious
• Rest the heel of your dominant hand on your dog’s cheek or just below their ear. This helps steady your hand and ensures you move with them if they move, which reduces the chance of eye injury.
• Trim the hair around the eyes, being careful to point the scissor tip away from your dog at all times.
• Follow the same process for trimming the beard, if necessary.

Other grooming care

Don’t forget your dog’s teeth! Toothbrushing should ideally be undertaken daily using a soft brush and a canine toothpaste. Dogs can be taught to tolerate toothbrushing from a young age, or with lots of praise and treats.

Similarly, nail clipping is an important part of your dog’s grooming routine. Check the nails weekly, looking for signs of them growing too long – they may curl over into the pad, click along the floor, or have a large length of nail after the pink quick. Use sharp clippers to cut the nail to 4mm past the end of the quick. If your dog has black nails, our handy guide on how to brush a dog’s teeth can help.

Conclusion

So, now you know how to groom a dog! With monthly baths and clips, weekly nail checks, and daily brushing of the coat and teeth, your dog will be kept in tip-top condition even when the groomer is closed. Don’t forget to take it slow so that you don’t frighten your dog, especially when these things are new to him.

Combing through stubborn matted hair isn't the easiest of tasks and there's always a nagging worry that you may be hurting your fur baby. With the Hertzko Soft Pet Brush, however, you're able to gently penetrate deep into your dog's fur without fear of ripping at their undercoat. You'll also avoid scratching their skin as you detangle hair and remove any dirt.

As we noted when compiling our guide to the best dog brushes, this tool is primarily designed to make life easier for both you and your dog. Not only will you be ensuring your canine companion continues to enjoy a shiny coat and healthy skin – free of stubborn knots and loose hair – you will also be able to quickly clean this slicker brush in seconds, making grooming sessions far less time-consuming.

To that end, it's a great brush to have around and the manufacturer is so confident that you'll like it, it is giving buyers a 100 percent satisfaction guarantee. What's more, it's a good-looking tool that has been built to be durable making for an inexpensive investment that should, with proper use, last you some time.

HERTZKO Self-Cleaning Slicker Brush: Features

There are two main problems with a lot of slicker brushes. For starters, their fine wire bristles are tightly packed together, which is great for removing tangles and dirt, but not so fun when you come to clean them. They can also end up becoming bent which reduces their effectiveness and will potentially cause pain to your pet.

With the Hertzko Soft Pet Brush, you don't need to worry too much about either of these issues thanks to a button located towards the top of the handle. One press will cause the bristles to retract into the brush, allowing hair and dirt to be quickly swept away using your hand. You can also retract the bristles before putting the brush away. Doing so will vastly reduce the chance of accidentally bending any of the bristles – something that could inadvertently cause pain to your pet and reduce the lifespan of the brush.

As you can imagine, the actual brushing is taken care of as well. Not only is the slicker brush designed to be comfortable (thanks to its anti-slip, comfort-grip handle reducing the chance of you developing arm fatigue and aching wrists) the bristles are said to gently massage your pet which increases their circulation and makes them far less likely to want to run away.

The head of the brush is also 5.8-inches long and three-inches wide, which makes it particularly suitable for grooming large dogs, although the manufacturer claims you can use it on cats too. Of course, such a size may mean you will struggle around smaller, more sensitive areas, such as your canine's face, but you'll either need to find a more suitable brush for those parts or just be extra careful.

HERTZKO Self-Cleaning Slicker Brush: User reviews

Being able to easily clean a slicker brush is a very attractive proposition, so it is no surprise to see users enthusing over the Hertzko Soft Pet Brush's retractable bristles. “Cleaning is AMAZING,” one reviewer wrote, having used it on her cat. “Just press the button, pull the pad of hair off, and it doesn't fill up until after nearly a full session of brushing.”

Another user agreed. “By far the best hair release mechanism I've used,” he wrote, while even giving users a top tip. “Our dog has thick hair so I tried using this while bathing him which was very successful but very difficult,” the user shared. “So I waited til he was somewhat dry and it went through like a breeze!”

Other tips include being careful of the angle: “Keep the brush head flat,” a user wrote. “If it's angled, I think the bristles hurt the dog's skin.” The same user must be getting it right because “the dogs will stand in line for this!” She explains: “The dogs show me where they want to be brushed by strategically moving during the brushing.”

Not that everyone is happy, though. One reported their dog hating the brush while another said “the plastic near one of the bolts started to break” just after the one-month return window as luck would have it. Confusingly, there are users who say it doesn't work well on thick-haired animals and those who say it doesn't work well on a short-haired dog. 

But the number of people who don't like the brush are tiny in comparison to the 87 percent giving it four or more stars. “Pets like it because it doesn't seem to yank on their coat like other brushes do and it seems to reach down through the fur to their hide,” one positive user concluded.

Should you buy the HERTZKO Self-Cleaning Slicker Brush?

If you want a slicker brush that is easy to clean then you can't go too far wrong with this product. It's effective at getting into a dog's fur without feeling uncomfortable and it will even massage to improve your pet's health.

The fact that you're less likely to cause damage to the bristles due to their ability to retract is also an important consideration – nobody wants to inadvertently bend a bristle and accidentally hurt an animal, after all!

If you have dogs, no doubt you’ve dealt with your fair share of your dog shedding hair – around the house, in the upholstery, and everywhere your dog passes by! Shedding is one of the many challenges that will come along with pet ownership, but there are some steps you can take to manage and even reduce the amount of dog hair floating around your home. To address your dog’s shedding, you’ll first need to determine whether the volume of hair your dog sheds is normal. Then check out our tips to see how you can decrease the amount of hair your dog sheds, and what you can do to clean up the hair left behind in your home.

Why do dogs shed?

Dog hair is more than just a nuisance. A dog’s hair acts as a protective barrier for the skin, helps regulate your dog’s body temperature, and protects your dog from the elements. As individual hairs complete their growth cycles, they naturally break away to make room for new, healthy hair to grow in. This is a normal process that results in some constant shedding the same way you may find loose hairs left behind after you shower or brush your own hair. The amount of shedding that is normal for your dog will vary depending on your dog’s breed, coat type, and environment.

Why is my dog shedding so much?

Several factors can cause your dog to shed more than usual. Sometimes an increase in shedding can be normal, such as when the seasons change or when a female dog “blows her coat” after a heat cycle or giving birth. Dogs will also shed more during stressful situations, like a trip to the veterinary clinic.

Sometimes excessive shedding can have underlying causes that are more concerning. These can include conditions such as:

• Parasites
• Allergies
• Skin infections
• Autoimmune conditions
• Endocrine (hormonal) disorders
• Contact dermatitis (allergic reactions)

These conditions are often accompanied by other symptoms, such as redness of the skin, itching, crusting, scabbing or changes in your pet’s appetite and energy level. If you notice any changes in your dog’s health or behavior, it’s best to see your veterinarian for an evaluation. Your vet will perform a full physical examination and may recommend some additional diagnostic testing to help determine the underlying cause of your dog’s excessive hair loss.

How to stop a dog from shedding

While you can’t stop shedding completely, there are some steps you can take to help manage your dog’s shedding and reduce the amount of dog hair left around your home. First, make sure to bathe and brush your dog regularly to remove loose hairs and prevent tangles and matting. For long-haired dogs, daily brushing with one of the best dog brushes may be necessary to maintain the coat and manage shedding.

Regular brushing sessions are also a great time to bond with your dog and practice some basic training. To help make grooming sessions easier, start slow and use plenty of positive reinforcement, such as treats and praise, to make the experience more pleasant for your dog. Never force your dog to submit to grooming, and stop if your dog seems stressed or anxious at any point during the process.

In addition to regular grooming, you can also curb your dog’s shedding by feeding them a high-quality diet to promote a healthy hair coat. Your dog’s diet should be age-appropriate, complete and balanced. Ask your vet for recommendations or learn which dog food is best for your dog. Remember that if you do decide to change your dog’s diet, you should transition to the new diet gradually to avoid upsetting your dog’s stomach – a stressful event that could lead to even more shedding!

Make sure you also keep your dog up to date on regular veterinary care and parasite prevention medications to reduce the risk of shedding due to medical conditions. Routine veterinary visits can often catch and address potential problems early before they turn into major issues. Your vet can also help you determine whether your dog’s current level of shedding is normal, or whether there is cause for concern.

Although it may be tempting to try home remedies and supplements that claim to stop shedding, these products rarely work and some may not be safe for your dog. As always, be sure to consult your vet before starting any new vitamins, supplements, or home remedies for your dog.

Dogs that don’t shed: A mythical creature

Despite their popularity, it’s a myth that breeds like the Poodle or the Bichon Frise don’t shed. Sadly, if it has hair, it’s going to shed! The good news is that these breeds do tend to shed significantly less than their thicker-coated counterparts. If you’re looking for a dog with a little less cleanup, these low-shedding breeds may be a viable option. However, it’s important to remember that these breeds still shed some hair as part of the normal cycle of hair growth – you just won’t see as much as you would with other breeds.

How to get rid of dog hair around the home

Unfortunately, sometimes the only way to manage shedding is to just deal with it! Investing in a good vacuum cleaner for pet hair is the best option for dealing with all that fur. Using machine-washable slipcovers, throws, or protective mats is a great way to keep upholstery looking fresh and new all year round. Lint rollers are also a must-have to quickly pick up dog hair from clothing and upholstery. And whenever possible, choose fabrics and surfaces that are more resistant to pet hair, such as swapping your fabric couch for a leather one or sticking with hardwood floors instead of wool carpeting for easy cleaning.

Dog shedding: A normal nuisance

Shedding is a normal part of every dog and dog owner’s life. Knowing what’s normal for your dog is important so you can identify changes early and see your veterinarian if shedding starts to become excessive or abnormal. With regular grooming, a healthy diet, and routine veterinary care, you can minimize your dog’s shedding as much as possible.

We all know that some dog coat types need more grooming than others, but what about brushing short-haired dogs? If you’re the owner of a short-haired dog like a Chihuahua, Labrador Retriever, or a smooth-haired Dachshund, you might be wondering how often you need to brush your dog and what type of dog brush is best for them.

From knowing how to de-shed your dog's coat to a step-by-step guide on how best to brush them, this article will help keep your pooch's hair in tip-top condition every time.

Do short-haired dogs need regular grooming? 

Whilst short-haired dogs don’t need the level of grooming as many of the other coat types, it’s still a good idea to make coat care part of your dog’s routine. Cared-for coats tend to be shinier, softer, and the skin underneath is healthier. Not only that, but in caring for your dog’s coat you have the opportunity to check them over, looking for lumps and bumps, wounds, and other areas of concern. You’ll also be able to remove burrs, grass seeds, and other foreign bodies in the fur before they cause a problem.

Do short-haired dogs shed? 

As any owner of a Labrador can tell you, short-haired dogs can shed, and this is especially noticeable if they have a thick coat. However, even thin-coated dogs, like Chihuahuas and Greyhounds, will shed fur – just less of it! That’s one of the reasons that brushing is important even for short-haired dogs.

How often to brush a short-haired dog 

How often you should brush your short-haired dog depends on a number of factors, and it’s all about finding the right balance for you and your dog. Firstly, you need to take into account their coat thickness and type. Some dogs will have thicker fur and shed more often than others, leading you to brush them a lot more. Some dogs have sore skin, which might mean you brush less frequently. You might also want to take into account how dirty your dog gets, and how much they enjoy being brushed.

In general, aim to brush your short-haired dog about once a fortnight, or once a week if they seem to need it or particularly enjoy it. You should also brush them after a walk if they’re covered in vegetation such as grass seeds or sticky burrs. If they get muddy, you’ll also want to brush them more frequently – but wait until the mud has dried before trying to brush them!

What kind of brush is best for a short-haired dog? 

For most short-haired dogs, you’ll need a bristle brush. This brush is soft on the skin, which is important as short-haired dogs often don’t have much protection from their fur. It’s great at spreading oils for a good shine, but can also pull out small knots in thicker fur. An alternative is a rubber brush, which some dogs prefer.

A de-shedding brush may also be needed, especially if you have a thick-coated, short-haired dog such as a Labrador. These dogs have a double-layered coat that can moult hairs all over your house if not kept well-groomed!

Here’s our guide to the best dog brushes if you’re in the market for a new one.

How to brush a short-haired dog 

When it comes to brushing your short-haired dog, you first want to make sure your dog is comfortable. This may mean getting somebody else to hold your dog still whilst you brush them, although most dogs enjoy the process and will quickly learn to stand still (or roll on their back begging you to do their tummy!). Distractions can be helpful – a toy or static food puzzle can provide them with entertainment, especially if they’re very dirty suggesting you’ll be there a while!

Get all your brushes together, as well as your nail clippers if you’re going to check their feet whilst you’re at it.

1. Start by running your hands over your dog, from head to toe. Make note of any lumps, bumps, wounds, or matted areas so you can come back to them later.
2. Starting at your dog’s head end, use your bristle brush to groom over their neck and back in the direction of the hair.
3. Don’t forget to focus on the neck area, as the fur here is often thicker and more prone to problems.
4. If you come across any objects caught in the fur or areas of matting, leave them for now.
5. You want your strokes to be firm, but not so firm that they hurt – how hard you can press will depend on your brush and your dog’s sensitivity, but watch your dog for clues that you’re going too hard.
6. Your brush strokes shouldn’t be too long or too short – about a third of your dog’s back length is perfect.
7. When grooming under their chest, you might ask your dog to lie on his back, or get someone to hold him vertically for you.
8. You can use a comb to remove matts and dirt, but be careful of wounds or sore areas. Anything out of the ordinary is worth seeing the vet about!

How to de-shed a short-haired dog 

If your dog needs a de-shed, it’s best to do this before using the bristle brush, as the bristle brush will remove any loose hairs you missed. The de-shedding brush is designed to get down to the undercoat, which is very dense and will be responsible for most of the hairs around your house.

Similar to general brushing, it’s a good idea to start de-shedding your dog at the head end, then brush in the direction of the fur. Again, you’ll need your brush strokes to be firm to get through the upper layers of fur, so watch your dog to check you aren’t pressing too hard. You’ll generally come away with a brush full of fur after each stroke, especially at certain times of year – you should empty this before continuing.

Once you’ve finished de-shedding, use a bristle brush or a rubber brush to grip and gently pull on any remaining loose hairs, as well as spread the skin oils over the fur for a nice shine.

Final thoughts 

Thin-coated short-haired dogs need very little coat care, but you’ll probably find that brushing your short-haired dog is still fun for both of you and can be an important bonding experience. Short-haired dogs with thicker coats may need more frequent and more thorough brushing and may need de-shedding, too. If you find any wounds or lumps whilst brushing your dog, don’t forget to book an appointment with your vet to get them checked out.

Having a dog sprayed by skunk spray ranks up there among the top annoyances for many dog owners, especially if you live in a rural area.

Skunks use their smelly spray to ward off predators and, in many cases, curious dogs are on the receiving end of this spray. In addition to the foul odor associated with skunk spray, many dog owners wonder whether this spray could have harmful effects on their pet. In order to fully understand the risks associated with skunk spray, it’s important to have an understanding of what is in skunk spray and how those components can affect dogs. 

Is skunk spray poisonous to dogs? 

Skunk spray isn’t just disgusting; it can have a number of harmful effects on your dog. The odor of skunk spray is attributed to thiols and other related chemicals, which are found in the spray. These thiols not only have a strong odor, they can also have harmful effects on humans and pets. 

In most cases, dogs are sprayed when they are being nosy and investigating a skunk. Therefore, dogs tend to be sprayed around their face and head. This can allow skunk spray to enter your dog’s mouth and eyes, where it can cause far more problems than it would cause if only present on your dog’s skin. 

Dogs that ingest small amounts of skunk spray may have signs that range from drooling to nausea or vomiting. Rarely, however, dogs that ingest large amounts of spray may have a more serious reaction.

 Thiols present in skunk spray can react with red blood cells in the dog’s body, causing methemoglobinemia. This is a haemoglobin abnormality that interferes with the delivery of oxygen throughout the body. Affected dogs may develop pale or brown gums, lethargy, and weakness, with these signs developing hours to days after the initial skunk spray episode. Methemoglobinemia is a medical emergency.

If spray gets in your dog’s eyes, corneal damage may occur. Affected dogs may have red, swollen, or watery eyes, combined with a brief period of blindness. Rinse your dog’s eyes with lukewarm water for approximately 20 minutes, to flush the spray out of the eyes. If the eyes remain red, veterinary care may be needed. 

Can a dog get rabies by being sprayed by a skunk? 

Although skunks are common carriers of rabies virus, they cannot pass the virus in their spray. Simply being sprayed by a skunk cannot give your dog rabies. However, it is often difficult to determine whether your dog was sprayed from a distance or whether there was an up-close interaction that may have resulted in your dog receiving a bite from the offending skunk.

Unless you witnessed the interaction and are entirely confident that your dog was sprayed from a distance, you should contact your veterinarian if your pet has had any interaction with the skunk. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether your dog should receive a rabies vaccine booster. 

Should you take your dog to the vet after being sprayed by a skunk? 

Most dogs do not require veterinary care for skunk spray exposure. Skunk spray is not typically absorbed across the skin, so there is no toxicity risk from getting spray on the skin. 

If you suspect that your dog ingested a large amount of spray, you should contact your veterinarian. Signs of ingestion may include vomiting, refusal to eat, pale or brown gums, lethargy, and/or weakness. If these signs occur, your veterinarian will perform a physical examination and blood tests to determine what treatment is needed. 

If your dog has eye inflammation that does not resolve quickly after flushing the eyes, you should also seek veterinary attention. Skunk spray can damage the cornea of the eye and this damage could be permanent if left untreated. Your veterinarian can assess the integrity of your dog’s cornea and prescribe medication if needed. 

Finally, your dog may need to see a veterinarian for a rabies vaccine booster, depending on the scenario in which the spraying occurred and your dog’s vaccination history.

How to get skunk smell off a dog 

Eliminating the smell of skunk spray is a challenge! Bathing your dog in a typical dog shampoo will not help to remove the odor. Instead, you need to use a product or recipe that is specifically created to eliminate skunk odors. 

If you live in an environment where your dog is likely to encounter skunks, you may wish to keep a bottle of skunk odor shampoo on hand. There are a number of available products that are intended for this use, including Nature’s Miracle Skunk Odor Remover and Skunk-Off Shampoo. These shampoos typically work best when used as soon as possible after your dog is sprayed.

 If you do not have an appropriate shampoo on hand, there are several home recipes that have been recommended for skunk spray. Avoid recipes that feature tomato juice, and instead stick to this recipe, which is more effective:

 Peroxide-Based Odor Remover

• Peroxide-Based Odor Remover
• 1 quart (4 cups) of 3% fresh hydrogen peroxide
• ¼ cup baking soda
• 1-2 teaspoons of liquid dishwashing detergent

It is essential that this shampoo is kept away from your pet’s eyes. Use this shampoo immediately after mixing, while the peroxide is still bubbling. This maximizes the likelihood of neutralizing the foul-smelling thiols in the skunk’s spray. 

Lather your dog well with this solution and leave it in place for 5 minutes, then rinse your dog thoroughly. Be aware that the peroxide in this mixture may lighten your dog’s hair (especially in the case of dogs with a black or brown coat), but most people find that preferable to leaving their dog smelling like a skunk! 

How to get skunk smell out of your house 

In many cases, skunks spray when it’s dark outside. Your dog may run back indoors before you realize what happened. If that happens, you will need to wash any surfaces that your dog contacted, using the peroxide solution listed above or bleach. Either will effectively denature the thiols in skunk spray. For surfaces that may not hold up to peroxide or bleach, consider using vinegar; mix one part of vinegar with three parts of water, then use that solution to soak fabrics or wipe down surfaces. Vinegar is less effective than bleach or hydrogen peroxide, but it is also less likely to damage your fabrics.

To remove the skunk smell from the air in your home, open windows (if possible) to encourage ventilation. A small bowl of vinegar placed in each room may also help neutralize odors.

• 7 simple home remedies for fleas on dogs

Conclusion: Know the risks 

When dealing with a dog sprayed by skunk, your primary concern may be controlling the odor. In most cases, that is the only true problem that you will need to be prepared to address. However, in rare cases, dogs may develop serious illness or eye injury as a result of skunk spray. Be aware of these risks, so that you can recognize these complications early if they develop in your dog.  

If you're wondering how to use guillotine dog nail clippers, either because you've never used this style before or are completely new to the job, then help is at hand.

Many pet owners are apprehensive about clipping their pet's nails, usually out of fear that they may accidentally trim back too much of the nail and cause their dog's nails to bleed. However, with the right guidance and the best dog nail clippers for the job, you can actually perform this task at home without needing to ask your vet or local groomer to do it for you.

From how to tell if your dog's nails need clipping in the first instance to what's the difference in types; how to hold guillotine dog nail clippers and how to use, our vet's guide will help you clip your dog's nails with ease and confidence. 

How to tell if your dog’s nails need clipping 

Before you jump into using guillotine dog nail clippers to cut your dog’s nails, it might be worth checking they need a trim. Most dogs do not need regular nail trims, especially if they’re exercised on hard surfaces. However, those always walked on grass or with especially hard nails may need them cutting regularly. Dogs are also more likely to need their nails cutting as they age.

If your dog has white nails, you can use the pink ‘quick’ to see whether your dog needs their nails trimming. The end of the claw should be around 2mm past the end of the quick. If your dog has darker nails, you’ll have to look carefully at the underside of the nail to decide if there’s too much hard nail past the soft area where the quick is. Our article on how to clip your dog’s nails has further information.

Are guillotine dog nail clippers better than bypass types? What’s the difference? 

When choosing your dog nail clippers, you might have noticed several different types. Although they all look different, they fall into two main categories: the ‘bypass’, or ‘scissor’ type and the ‘guillotine’ type. There are also non-cutting types – like nail grinders and nail files – which may work well for some dogs.

‘Bypass’ or ‘scissor’ dog nail clippers have two sharp curved blades that move against each other – much like a pair of scissors or secateurs. You may also see this type called ‘plier’ nail clippers. These can either be sprung like secateurs, or not – like scissors – but they work in much the same way. They can be great for precise cuts, and on highly curved or small nails, but the spring ones work well in larger nails too. However, they blunt easily, and there’s no easy way to sharpen the blades, meaning you’ll have to replace the nail clippers entirely.

‘Guillotine’ nail clippers have a stationary blade (usually a hole or ‘ring’ shape) and one moving one (the ‘guillotine’) which slices the nail when you squeeze the handles. They make a straight cut, which can be really handy to avoid making your dog’s nail bleed. However, this straight cut can make life harder if a nail needs cutting at an angle. It’s also harder to get the dog nail clippers into position on little nails or highly curved nails.

How to use guillotine dog nail clippers 

 So, if you’ve chosen guillotine nail clippers for your dog, it’s time to look at how to use them. Firstly, squeeze them a few times without your dog there to make sure they’re sharp, and that the blade moves easily. Familiarise yourself with how they work, and make sure they’re comfortable to use. 

You should also gather together other things you’ll need whilst you clip your dog’s nails – some treats, a muzzle, and a way to stop your dog’s nail from bleeding. You may also want someone who can hold your dog whilst you trim their claws.

How to hold dog nail clippers 

Guillotine nail clippers and bypass clippers are held slightly differently. Unsprung ‘scissor’ bypass clippers are held using the finger holds – much like scissors are. Sprung bypass clippers are held in the palm of the hand, between the fleshy part of the thumb and the undersides of the four opposite fingers. With both types of bypass clippers, the clippers are held horizontally, so that the cutting blades cut the top and bottom of the nail, rather than side to side.

Guillotine clippers are held in a similar way to sprung bypass clippers – in the palm, with the underside of your four fingers squeezing shut to close the clippers – but you’ll need to approach the nail differently. Again, the aim is to cut the nail from bottom to top, not from side to side. So, you’ll need to hold the guillotine clippers upright, vertically, and perpendicular to the nail so that the blade crosses from bottom to top rather than crushing the nail side to side.

What is the guard for on dog nail clippers? 

Some dog nail clippers come with a guard. This is usually a spinning or sliding piece of metal or plastic that sits just the other side of the cutting blade. A guard on nail clippers prevents you from cutting too much nail if your dog moves. It also encourages you to cut small amounts several times, rather than one big cut which could hurt your dog. However, most guards can be swung out of the way should you find a large cut is needed.

How to sharpen guillotine dog nail clippers 

Most people do not take very good care of their nail clippers, but sharp clippers will be easier to cut with and cause less damage to your dog’s nails. 

You’ll usually have to take your guillotine nail clippers apart to access the blade. You’ll also need to use a specialised sharpening rod. This is a long, thin, and rounded sharpening tool that fits in the curve of the nail clippers. The coating on the rod contains diamonds or similar materials to sharpen the blade.

Looking closely at your nail clipper blade, you’ll notice the metal is filed at an angle. This forms a cutting point along the length of the blade. To sharpen, simply rub your sharpening tool back and forth along the edge of the blade. If your rod is too horizontal, you’ll blunt the blade further – you want to rub it at the same angle as the cutting surface.

 Final thoughts 

 So that’s how to use guillotine dog nail clippers. They’re great for medium sized dogs, and provide a clean, straight cut – but they can be a little more awkward to use. The blade is easier to sharpen than with bypass clippers though, meaning you can reuse the same clippers for years, saving money and the planet! If you’re struggling with clipping your dog’s nails, or aren’t sure if they should be clipped, it’s best to talk to your vet team. 

Whether you don't have any to hand or are looking for a dog clipper alternative, you may be wondering how to cut dog nails without clippers that's both stress-free for you and your pet.

Many proud pet parents spend a good deal of their time either at the groomers or at the vet asking them to cut their dog’s nails, so it's only natural that you might begin to wonder whether cutting your dog's nails is something that you can do yourself at home. 

Although this may seem like a simple task, a dog's nails can actually bleed a lot if they are cut too short. If you're feeling brave enough to have a go yourself, make sure you get your vet or groomer to show you what to do or watch some videos online. However, if the prospect of using clippers fills you with dread, or you don't have high quality dog nail clippers nearby, there are some alternative methods you can use to cut your dog's nails.

How can I cut my dog's nails at home? 

If you’ve had a bad experience with clippers before, or your furry friend has a sixth sense when it comes to clippers, you might want to try an alternative. 

The main options if you don't want to use clippers are nail files and grinders. While nail files are the quietest option, they're also very time-consuming. So, they might not suit an excitable or fidgety dog. 

Many pet owners wonder whether dog nail clippers or grinders are better for their pooch, and there's many pros and cons of each. The key benefit of grinders are that they are quicker than filing and leave a smoother nail than clippers. However, grinders are louder than clippers, and dogs may not like the vibrating sensation.

Can I cut my dog's nails with human nail clippers? 

You can use human nail clippers on young puppies' nails if you feel confident. However, it's not long before the nails become too strong and thick to be cut by human clippers. Don't be tempted to have a go with human nail clippers if you have an older puppy or adult dog. Human clippers can cause damage to the nails by crushing them and even causing them to crack or shatter.

Can I use a human nail file on my dog? 

Using a human nail file on your dog can often seem like the best option. They don't make any noise, there's no risk of cutting the quick, and they're very gentle. Sounds good, right? But the downside is that it's so time-consuming. Unless you do it really regularly, it's almost impossible to file all of the nails, or even just the nails on one foot, in one sitting. Doing a little bit each time, in regular sittings, will help you keep your dog’s nails in perfect shape.

How do I file dog nails with a Dremel grinder?

If you're going to use a grinder to give your pooch a pedicure, it's essential to prepare properly. If you've never used a grinder on your dog before, start slowly by just turning it on nearby to get them used to the sound. You can gradually build up to using the grinder on one nail for a longer and longer period of time until they are comfortable with the sensation. Before starting your dog's pedicure, carefully trim any long fur away from the nails so that it doesn't get caught on the grinder. To file the nails, gently apply pressure with the grinder, paining close attention not to allow them to get too short.

So, is it better to file or grind my dog nails instead of clipping them? 

As long as you are well prepared, using a nail file, grinder, or dog nail-clippers, are all good options. The method you choose should depend on your confidence level and your dog's temperament. Whichever you decide to use, make sure you have enough time before you start so that you don't have to rush. 

It's also sensible to have a clean tea towel or other fabric to hand so that you can apply pressure to the nail if you accidentally cause it to bleed. The recipe for success when it comes to keeping your dog's nails healthy is to ensure both you and the dog are as relaxed as possible. So, take it slow, and your dog will be showing off perfect paws in no time!

Read next: Why do dogs bite their nails?

While regular trips to the grooming salon are a way of life for many dog owners, following some simple dog grooming tips can help you safely and effectively groom your canine companion at home.

Before embarking upon a home grooming program, however, it’s important to do your research. Think carefully about your dog’s personality, grooming requirements, and your patience level to determine whether home grooming is a realistic option for you. If so, be sure that you have the necessary supplies, like one of the best dog grooming kits, and knowledge to groom your dog effectively.

Why does your dog need to be groomed?

Routine grooming is an essential component of proper dog care. Grooming isn’t simply a cosmetic issue; a lack of grooming can negatively impact your dog’s health and quality of life. Without regular grooming, your dog’s toenails could grow into his paw pads, knots and mats could tug on his skin, and a heavily matted coat can contribute to skin infections.

Although your dog’s grooming needs may vary considerably, depending on breed and lifestyle, all dogs require some degree of regular grooming to remain clean and free of health issues.

What do professional dog groomers use?

Most groomers have a variety of professional shampoos available, so that they can select the best dog shampoo for each pups unique coat. After they bathe a dog, they often place the dog under a professional-grade hair dryer. This dryer will quickly blow dry a dog’s coat while the dog remains confined to a small kennel area.

Once they're dry, dogs are typically placed on a grooming table. This table holds the dog at the groomer’s eye level, while also incorporating a restraint that keeps the dog from getting away. Long coats may be trimmed with a combination of scissors (available in many different sizes) and clippers (also available in different blade sizes for different coat lengths).

Groomers also typically have a variety of the best dog nail clippers available, so that they can select the right pair of clippers based on the dog’s size and groomer’s preference.

Home grooming for dogs: 10 tips for dog owners

If you are considering grooming your dog at home, it is important to be knowledgeable about grooming techniques and supplies. Consider the following 10 tips for at-home dog grooming:

1. Consider your dog’s temperament and grooming requirements

If your dog is extremely high-strung and unwilling to stand still for more than a minute or two, performing extensive home grooming may be a challenge. A quick bath and nail trim is one thing; performing a complicated poodle cut on a high-energy, wiggly dog may be an entirely different matter!

While it’s certainly reasonable for you to give home grooming a try, don’t feel bad if you ultimately decide that it’s easier to pay a professional groomer.

2. Focus on daily maintenance

If your dog has a long coat, daily brushing with one of the best dog brushes will significantly reduce your dog’s grooming requirements. This will make grooming day less stressful for both of you. Daily brushing will also accustom your dog to handling, making them more receptive to the handling that accompanies grooming.

3. Use positive reinforcement

Even a dog that is accustomed to regular handling may dislike standing still for grooming. Invest the time and energy to make grooming as enjoyable for your dog as possible. Reward your pup with tasty dog treats intermittently throughout the grooming session. If you use a soft treat, like peanut butter, you can even smear small amounts of the treat on the side of your bathtub or on your grooming surface; as your dog licks the treat off the surface, they will be more likely to remain still for grooming!

4. Bathe your dog with an appropriate dog shampoo

While you might think that human shampoo would be a more gentle option than pet shampoo, humans actually have more oils on their skin and hair than dogs. This means that human shampoo is often too drying for a dog’s skin, in addition to not being properly pH-balanced for dogs.

Purchase a shampoo that is specifically made for dogs. If your dog has skin allergies or other skin conditions, ask your veterinarian to recommend a prescription shampoo that will specifically address your dog’s issues. While bathing your dog, take care to keep shampoo out of the eyes; you may want to consider using a tear-free puppy shampoo.

5. Check your dog’s skin carefully during bathing

As you are bathing your dog, take the opportunity to perform a detailed, hands-on inspection of your dog’s skin. Examine your dog’s skin using your eyes and your hands, looking for wounds, inflammation, and any new lumps or bumps.

6. Be sure to rinse your dog thoroughly

Residual shampoo can irritate your dog’s skin, predisposing them to hot spots and other skin conditions. Rinse your dog thoroughly, using lukewarm water.

7. Clean your dog’s ears thoroughly after bathing

Despite your best efforts to keep the ears dry, water may enter your dog’s ear canals during bathing. This residual moisture can predispose your dog to ear infections. Therefore, it’s always best to clean your dog’s ears with a commercially-available dog ear cleaner after bathing. Not only does this provide you with an opportunity to remove water and debris from the ear canals, it also allows you to check your dog for any signs of an ear infection. If you notice a foul odor to the ears or excessive debris, contact your veterinarian.

8. Trim your dog’s nails carefully

There are a variety of nail trimmers available for dogs, ranging from double-bladed clippers to guillotine clippers. Any of these clipper types can be effective, so you may want to experiment to see which is the most comfortable for you and your dog.

When clipping your dog’s nails, your goal is to remove just the tips of the nails, avoiding the quick. You may want to keep some styptic powder on hand, especially if your dog has dark nails, so you can stop bleeding in the event that you nick your dog’s quick.

9. Avoid or minimize the use of scissors when trimming your pet’s hair

As a veterinarian, I’ve treated a number of pets who had their skin cut with scissors when their owners were attempting to remove a mat or tangle. Whenever possible, use pet hair clippers instead of scissors. They are less likely to create a significant cut in the skin. If you need to use scissors, use extreme caution and do not do so unless you a

10. Don’t bathe your dog too often

More is not always better! In general, most dogs should be bathed no more than once monthly. Overbathing can dry your dog’s skin and coat out, leading to skin irritation.

For more advice on this, check out our guide: How often should I bathe my dog?

Preparation is Key

Following these simple dog grooming tips can help you bid your dog groomer farewell and embark upon a home grooming plan that works for both you and your dog. Before doing so, be sure that you honestly evaluate your dog’s temperament and grooming needs, as well as your patience level, to make sure that home grooming will be a good experience for both of you. Arm yourself with information and the proper supplies, in order to be sure that your home grooming is working to keep your dog both clean and healthy.

If you’ve recently welcomed a new dog into your life and are wondering how often you should bathe a puppy, have a read of this feature. Or, learn how to get dog hair off your couch and how to remove dog hair from your washing machine

If you’re trying to decide between dog nail clippers vs grinders, you’ll want to keep reading. While it’s true that cutting your dog’s nails is low on the list of the most fun things to do with your dog, it has to be done. But if you’ve got the right equipment that works well for you and your pup, it doesn’t have to be so bad.

Keeping your dog’s nails trimmed is important for their overall health. Nails that are too long can be painful for your dog, so it’s vital to keep them in good shape. While you can always book a visit to a professional groomer for regular maintenance, those costs can add up quickly.

It can be more cost-effective to invest in a pair of the best dog nail clippers or best nail grinders to have at home. But which one is best? In this feature, we get into all the ins and outs of both. We also asked our in-house vet, Dr Rebecca MacMillan, to weigh in with her advice on each type.

Should I use dog nail clippers?

Using dog nail clippers is by far the most common method for trimming your dog’s claws. They’re easy-to-use, cheap, and convenient, and they’re a great way of ensuring that your pooch lives unburdened by unruly claws.

As well as being easy to pick up at the pet store or even supermarket, dog nail clippers offer a number of other advantages. Nervous dogs who might be frightened by loud nail grinders will often fare better with the silence of a nail clipper, while the process is usually over pretty quickly.

However, there are also plenty of disadvantages to think about too. With nail clippers, you’ll be left with rough edges to the nail, which can be scratchy on surfaces and your skin.

Dr. MacMillan also adds, "The other disadvantage of clippers is that it is easier to accidentally cut your dog’s quick, especially if you are inexperienced. The quick is a sensitive area, which bleeds when you cut the claw too short."

If you are considering using a nail clipper, read our guide on how to clip a dog's nails for tips and tricks.

Should I use a dog nail grinder?

If you’re looking for an alternative to nail clippers, choosing a nail grinder is an excellent choice. Although generally more expensive than nail clippers, they offer several advantages that may be worth the extra bucks.

You’ll be rewarded with much smoother nails after using a grinder, which can be kinder on surfaces and skin. It’s also much easier to be precise or control the grinder when trimming thick and black nails.

"Grinders tend to be easier for novice pet owners to use. There is a lower risk of hitting the quick because you are grinding off small amounts of claw gradually," says Dr. MacMillan.

Using nail grinders is a much slower process than with nail clippers, so you’ll need to set plenty of time aside. You’ll also want to make sure any fur around the paws is trimmed back to ensure it doesn’t get trapped in the grinder and cause pain for your dog.

To avoid running out of power in the middle of the session, make sure the grinder’s battery is fully charged before you get to work.

Nervous dogs might find the noise and vibration caused by a nail grinder to be intimidating. It's worth starting your dog off gently to help an anxious dog. Introduce the nail grinder to the dog for a few days before you actually start using it to get them used to the sound and vibrations, and then start with just one nail at a time, with plenty of the best dog treats getting dolled out in between.

Dog nail clippers vs grinders

There’s no doubt that dog nail clippers are much cheaper than dog nail grinders. However, you shouldn’t necessarily confuse cheapness with good value.

If your dog prefers nail grinders, and they do a better job, then the extra spend will be worth it in the long run. If you’re unsure about which to start with, then it would make sense to start with the cheaper option and try that first.

Ultimately, there’s no right or wrong answer to whether dog nail clippers or dog nail grinders are best.

Each dog is different, and there are pros and cons to using each. Nail clippers are arguably the most convenient, and they are certainly the cheapest. Nail grinders have their own advantages, though, especially for dogs with thick or black claws.

Whichever you choose to use, allowing your dog to get used to the process slowly will lead to a much calmer experience and keep them happy, healthy, and padding around for many years.

Read next: How to use guillotine nail clippers

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Megan Milstead.

Is your dog shivering after bath time? If so, you may be worried about your canine companion associating getting clean with feeling cold or anxious. Thankfully, a small amount of shivering when your dog gets out of the bath is generally normal and to be expected.

While we don't advise bathing your dog too frequently (every four to six weeks for long-haired dogs and between one and three months for short-haired breeds is recommended), a good lather with the best dog shampoo now and again is a great way to remove dirt and debris and keep their coat looking its best.

Most dogs will shake the minute they get out of the tub as a way of removing excess water and some may shiver for a short amount of time until their body temperature has regulated. If your dog tends to struggle with staying warm and shivers on a regular basis, then it's worth a trip to the vet to rule out any underlying health issues.

Helping your pup to warm up quickly once they're nice and clean is one of the most important parts of learning how to give a dog a bath. With that in mind, we're sharing some of our favorite tips to help you get your dog get all cozy and warm again after tub time. Let's take a look...

What to do if your dog is shivering after their bath

1. Check the temperature of the bath water

Just as you would with your own bath, it’s important to get the temperature of your dog’s bath just right. That means it should neither be too cold, nor too hot. 

Make sure to put water in the bath before you put your pooch into it - having them stand in an empty bath while you fill it up with water which may not be the right temperature can be distressing, especially if they are prone to shivering. 

Ideally, you want the water’s temperature not to be too far off the ambient temperature of the room/house so that the difference between the two when you take your dog out to dry isn’t too marked - the sudden change in temperature can add to the shivering problem.

On that note, try your best to do everything you can to make the room/house as pleasant a temperature as possible. In the colder months, notching up the heating for a little while just before the bath can go a long way to help, or placing your pet’s bed closer to a source of heat for them to cozy up in after can also be a good idea.

You might also want to avoid bathing your pet late at night, too - unless it’s absolutely necessary.

2. Create a calm atmosphere

Many dogs find baths to be a slightly traumatic experience, which can contribute to shivering after the bath.

If that sounds like your dog, try to only bathe them when it’s strictly necessary. Dog wipes, refreshing sprays, or brushes might be a better alternative for those that struggle with baths if they just need a light clean. 

When it can’t be avoided, try your best to make the experience as calming as possible. Use a gentle, reassuring voice and have plenty of the best dog treats on hand to show your dog that they’re doing really well by being in the bath. 

After you take them out of the bath, don’t just leave them to it. Stay with them to carry on with the reassurance and treats. You can also hold them to make them feel calm or stroke or fuss over them to make it an enjoyable experience.

3. Get your dog dry as quickly as possible

Before you even run the bath, make sure you’ve got everything you need to hand. 

Don’t leave your dog standing frightened in the bath while you fumble around looking for that bottle of the best dog conditioner you’ve just invested in or having to go to the other end of the house to fetch towels once the bath is over. 

Speaking of towels - have at least two next to you when bathing your furbaby. The first can be used when you’re picking your dog out of the bath to mop up the vast majority of water and you can use the second towel to finish off the job and make the overall process quicker. 

The faster you can make the washing and drying process, the less likely you are to have to deal with shivering. 

You should also aim to have a freshly clean and dry blanket ready for your dog to snuggle into once they are almost completely dry. This will help them keep as warm as possible while they finish off the drying process.

One way you can also speed up the process is by using a hairdryer on a low heat and a low power. This won’t be suitable for every dog - particularly nervous ones who might not like the noise - so make sure to only use one if your dog is completely happy.

4. Keep an eye on them

If your dog is shivering after a bath, try not to worry, but make sure you keep an eye on them. 

That’s especially true if it’s the first time you’ve given your puppy a bath, or it’s been a long time since you last bathed your dog. If you’ve got a nervous dog that hates baths, staying with them for a while after the event will help to reassure them that they’ve got nothing to worry about. 

While it’s perfectly natural for your dog to shiver for a short time after a bath, if they are still shivering or struggling to get warm for a long time afterward - or if it’s unusual for your dog - be sure to get a second opinion from your dog’s vet.

For more great grooming-related content, be sure to check out our guide to how to give a dog a flea bath and how to groom a dog.  This is how often you should bathe a puppy. 

If you're considering treating your pooch to a DIY dog conditioner, it's important to think about what's right for your canine companion.

Some dogs can experience sensitive or itchy skin as a medical issue, which is why consulting with your vet and researching the best dog conditioner on the market is a wise option. If you're particularly concerned about chemicals and want to go all-natural, the good news is that many pet supply companies nowadays look to go Paraben-free. 

If you simply enjoy a spot of DIY, however, and fancy having a go at a few home conditioning treatments at home, there are a number of safe ingredients you can try, including coconut oil which is frequently reported as having a number of benefits on dog's fur such as hydration and helping with some skin issues. 

From adding shine to helping with a temporary itch, these DIY dog conditioners are so simple to make. 

• How often should I bathe my dog?
• Can you use human shampoo on dogs?

1. Oatmeal conditioner

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup raw rolled oats
• 2 tablespoons aloe vera gel
• Empty plastic bottle
• Coffee grinder
• Measuring cup

Method

1. Place 1/4 cup raw rolled oats into a coffee grinder, then blend until it forms a smooth powder.
2. Pour the oat powder into a clean, empty plastic bottle that has a lid or top that fits securely to keep the conditioner from spilling as you pour it over the dog.
3. Add 2 tablespoons of aloe vera gel to the bottle and add 1 cup of warm water. Put the cap on the bottle and shake vigorously to create a thin, milky-looking conditioner.
4. Squirt the conditioner over the dog’s coat after shampooing, and rub it though the hair with your hands. Leave it on for five minutes, then rinse with warm water until the water runs clear.

Recipe via DailyPuppy

2. Apple cider vinegar spray 

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup cooled green tea
• 1 cup distilled water

Method 

1. Mix the ingredients together in a bottle/jar with cap and shake well before use
2. Apply to clean skin and coat, massage, rinse, and pat dry.

Recipe via Planet Paws 

3. Coconut oil conditioner

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup coconut oil
• 2 teaspoons of olive oil
• 1 tbsp bath oil
• 2 drops vanilla extract
• 1 egg
• 1 cup milk
• 1 tbsp honey
• 1 banana
• 1 avocado
• 1 cup mayonnaise 

Method

1. Combine half a cup coconut oil, two tsp. olive oil, 1 tbsp. bath oil, and two drops of vanilla extract.
2. In a separate bowl, whip an egg until it is fluffy, add 1 cup milk and 1 tbsp. honey. In another bowl, mash one banana together with one avocado and 1 cup mayonnaise.
3. Combine the egg mixture with the banana mixture, then add the oil mixture.
4. Massage the resulting conditioner into the dog's fur and skin and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. This conditioner will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.

Recipe via The Nest

4. DIY rosemary dog conditioner spray

Ingredients

• 1/3 cup organic rosemary hydrosal
• 1 tsp non-GMO aloe vera gel
• 1/2 tsp. organic vegetable glycerin
• 1/2 tsp. organic fractionated coconut oil
• 1/8 tsp. Non-GMO vitamin E oil

Method

1. Add all ingredients into a spray mist bottle.
2. Shake well before each use. 

Recipe via Mountain Rose Herbs

Canine owners know just how messy their pups can get, but regular shampooing aside, do dogs need conditioner to keep their mane in tip-top condition?

If, following a good wash with a good dog shampoo, you've been pondering "do dogs need conditioner?" the first thing you need to consider is your dog's coat type and their individual requirements.

Not every dog groomer will look to use dog conditioner on a pup, so it can be down to the owner to decide whether or not their canine needs the extra treatment. 

Consider the length of your dog's hair, whether they have itchy or sensitive skin, how long your pup is able to stay in the tub for and if they have an undercoat. Don't forget to ask yourself "how often do I bathe my dog?" too.

You may also be wondering whether dog conditioner is worth the money, or if there any alternatives out there for taming your dog's locks. This guide will look to tackle all the frequently asked questions you may have about conditioning your dog's coat. 

If you're ready to take the plunge, we also have advice on some of the best dog conditioners you can buy, as well as a round-up of some seriously useful dog bath grooming products that will make you feel like a grooming pro every time. 

Benefits of dog conditioner

Before we detail all the factors to consider when deciding if dog conditioner is right for your pup, it's useful to understand exactly what it does.

If dog shampoo cleans your canine's coat, dog conditioner generally restores shine and detangles coats. However, there's a lot more to the treatment than simply adding a gloss to your dog's fur.

Dog conditioner can help soothe itchy, sensitive skin if you choose one that's specially designed to target problem areas or even make the coat look plumper. It can fix matted hair in a jiffy or even help to replace essential oils lost during the washing process.

Does my dog need conditioner?

You've taken your dog to a groomer or are pondering "do dogs need conditioner?" at home following a successful shampoo treatment. So, what next? 

Here's everything you should consider before choosing a dog conditioner.

1. Length of hair

If your dog has particularly long hair that's typical of a breed such as an Afghan Hound or a Yorkie, then dog conditioner is likely to be a must. These canine coats can quickly become tangled and prone to matting, so conditioning their hair will make brushing much easier. You could even consider a dog conditioner spray to add more shine and detangle ahead of grooming. 

2. Bath frequency 

Frequent bathing can dry a dog's coat so you may look to restore moisture with a dog conditioner. 

Oatmeal is generally a great option for pups that suffer from dry skin, but if this is becoming a recurring problem, you could also cut back on the frequency of baths. If your dog's coat is dry and lacking its usual luster, you could be stripping back essential oils. Be prepared to adjust your routine and treatments accordingly. 

3. Skin type

Does your pooch suffer from itchy or sensitive skin? If you frequent a dog groomer, then don't be afraid to ask for their advice on the perfect conditioning treatment.

If you're dog washing at home, go soap-free so as not to further inflame the skin. Oatmeal and aloe can be a gentle formula for pooches with even the most sensitive of skin.

Your vet may be able to prescribe a medicated treatment, particularly if the condition worsens, so keep an eye on your canine as scratching may turn out to be the work of dietary issues, parasites or allergies. 

4. Bath time behavior

Some pups find bath time distressing, while many canines would rather be doing pretty much anything else in life. If your pooch truly hates bath time, you may wish to skip on the dog conditioner altogether or consider an alternative. 

There are a few things you can do to calm your canine, as we've detailed in our article addressing "Why do dogs hate baths?", but if you just can't get your dog to settle, then use a 2-in-1 dog shampoo and conditioner to get the job done quicker or consider a leave-in conditioner that can be sprayed on. 

Can I use hair conditioner on my dog?

Thinking of applying human hair conditioner to your dog? Think again! A dog has different pH levels in their skin than the average human so it's always best to reach for the dog specific conditioner as human grooming products can cause skin irritation.

DIY dog conditioners 

If you've forgotten a few pet supplies or you want to try out an alternative conditioning treatment, do-it-yourself dog conditioners can help create a shiny coat.

Bear in mind they're unlikely to be as effective as choosing a commercial product specially formulated to target your canine's individual needs, but for a simple moisturizing job, these could do the trick.

Rosemary dog conditioner spray

Ingredients

1/3 cup organic rosemary hydrosol
1 tsp. non-GMO aloe vera gel
1/2 tsp. organic vegetable glycerin
1/2 tsp. organic fractionated coconut oil
1/8 tsp. Non-GMO vitamin E oil 

Method

1. Add all ingredients into a spray mist bottle
2. Shake well before each use

Recipe via Mountain Rose Herbs

Oats dog conditioner

Ingredients

1/4 rolled oats
1/2 cup of warm water
2 tbsp coconut oil
1 tbsp raw honey 

Method

1. Grind oats into a fine powder
2. Combine all ingredients
3. Mix thoroughly

Recipe via Petwell Supply

Pumpkin dog conditioner

Ingredients

2 cups of pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)
2 tbsps coconut oil
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp plain Greek yogurt
1 tsp organic oatmeal powder

Method

1. Add the pumpkin and yogurt to a blender or food processor and pulse together
2. Then add the coconut oil and honey and pulse once more
3. Finally, add the oatmeal powder and blend until the mixture is entirely smooth
4. Gently scrub in dog's hair, then rinse after 2 minutes

Recipe via BeChewy