Adorable, short-tailed little rodents, hamsters make delightful pets. Their diminutive size, radar ears, paintbrush paws and habit of stuffing their cheeks full of morsels to save for later makes them particularly endearing.

But did you know that the pet hamsters we know and love only scratch the surface of the many different types of hamster in the world? These rodents belong to the sub-family “cricetinae”, and there are around 19 different species under that umbrella. Of these, only five are commonly kept as pets.

The others typically roam free in their natural habitat, foraging at night-time – which is a habit pet hamsters perpetuate even when there is no predatory threat in the home.

Let’s take a look at some of the different types of hamster, their native habitats – and their scientific names that denote which species they belong to.

Types of hamsters

1. Syrian (teddy bear)

Commonly kept as pets, Syrian hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus) – also known as golden hamsters – are all one species, but there are dozens of different colors. In terms of coat types, there are three main types.

The long-hair version is nicknamed “teddy bear”, and their silky locks can grow up to 10cm, with males growing longer hair than females.

2. Syrian (satin)

The satin Syrian hamster has shiny, glossy fur, which can be either short or long. The fur can appear to shimmer as the individual hairs are more translucent than other coat types.

However, you can get too much of a good thing, as two satins bred together tend to produce offspring with dull coats.

3. Syrian (Rex)

Rex Syrians can be either short or long-haired, but their coats and whiskers are curly, crimped or wavy. The Rex gene is recessive and therefore these hamsters are fairly rare.

The hamster pictured, while it has a slightly frizzy coat is unlikely to be a true Rex as the whiskers are not curled.

4. Syrian (short-haired)

A Syrian or golden hamster with short, smooth fur. They can be considered the classic Syrian, as the first hamsters discovered had short hair.

They come with benefits – they need minimal grooming as their fur doesn’t tangle or collect bedding and debris.

5. Syrian (hairless)

The hairless Syrian hamster has a gene that affects the outer layer of the skin with the hair follicles. This is a genetic mutation which is most commonly seen in Syrians, and unfortunately the life expectancy of such hamsters is considerably shorter than the hairy ones.

They have very sensitive and fragile skin, without a protective furry layer, and minimal whiskers. They also struggle to keep warm without that insulation and so have a rocketing metabolism.

6. Chinese (normal/wild)

There are three main variations of the Chinese hamster (Cricetulus griseus) while the Chinese striped hamster (Cricetulus barabensis) is closely related and looks very similar. This species has a mouse-like appearance.

The “normal” or “wild” Chinese hamster has a dark brownish-gray coat, white tummy and a dark dorsal stripe. This type is commonly domesticated – the wild being a reference to the coloring – and is a popular pet.

7. Chinese (dominant spot)

The dominant spot Chinese – also called the “spotted white” – is a variation that is common in pet hamsters. This version is white with coloured spots, speckles or patches.

8. Chinese (black-eyed white)

The black-eyed white Chinese hamster is a relatively new mutation, and is much the rarest of the three color variations of this species. There are very few in existence and confined to breeders in the UK.

9. Campbell’s dwarf

The Campbell’s dwarf hamster (Phodopus campbelli) was named in honour of Charles William Campbell, the first collector of this breed. They are kept as pets. In common with other “phodopus” hamsters, they live in groups in the wild.

Similar in looks to the Djungarian hamster (winter white), with a few differences, notably that they aren’t as well adapted to withstand very low temperatures.

They typically have brown or grey fur with a narrow dorsal stripe, a grey belly and small ears.

10. Winter white (Russian) dwarf

The winter white (Phodopus sungorus) goes by many names: Russian dwarf, Djungarian, striped dwarf, Siberian dwarf and more, and are around half the size of Syrians.

In the wild, they usually have grey fur with a thick dark dorsal stripe, however when winter comes this dark fur is replaced with white. This acts as a camouflage to protect them from predators in the snow. This is the main way to tell them apart from the very similar Campbell’s dwarf.

This amazing coat change is less likely to happen when they are kept as domestic pets, due to artificial light.

11. Robo (Roborovski) dwarf

One of the three Phodopus species, the Roborovski hamster (Phodopus roborovski) is also known as “desert hamster” and is the smallest of this tiny species.

Distinguishing features include pale patches above the eyes, sandy coat (to match its original desert habitat) and no dorsal stripe.

The diminutive Robo is known for its extraordinary speed and stamina. They are popular – if slightly skittish – pets.

12. Black-bellied (European)

The black-bellied (Cricetus cricetus) is a gorgeous wild hamster, with brown fur, white patches and its signature black belly. It is the largest known hamster species, and also goes by the name European or Eurasian hamster.

While they have been viewed as a pest, they are now critically endangered.

13. Brandt’s

The same species as the Syrian hamster to which it is closely related, the Brandt’s hamster (Mesocricetus brandti) is also known as the Turkish or Azerbaijani hamster, or the Avurtlak.

Their eye-catching coats are sandy, tan and dark brown. They are known to be aggressive and therefore not kept as pets. They are native to Turkey, Armenia and countries close by, and tend to live in dry, rocky steppe habitats high above sea level.

14. Gansu

The Gansu hamster (Cansumys canus) is native to China, specifically the Gansu province. It is not closely related to any of our common pet hamsters.

A study on the the Cansumys canus suggests that this species has certain morphological features that imply its natural habitat is mountain forests, and that it may even live in trees.

15. Mongolian

Found in Mongolia, but also in China and Russia, the Mongolian hamster (Allocricetulus curtatus) is wild and not kept as a pet. However, they do have similarities in appearance with Chinese hamster. The Mongolian gerbil, on the other hand, is commonly domesticated!

Unlike many wild hamsters, the Mongolian is not considered endangered.

16. Eversmann’s

The Eversmann’s or Kazakh hamster (Allocricetulus eversmanni) is very similar to the Mongolian hamster, and is found in the deserts and semi-deserts of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan China and Russia.

They are wild, and have soft gray-brown or sandy fur with a white belly with a characteristic dark spot on their chest. They are short and stocky.

17. Sokolov's dwarf

This adorable dwarf hamster (Cricetulus sokolovi) is very similar to the Chinese, and has in its history been marked as the Chinese striped though is officially a distinct species.

Grey with a yellow hue and a distinctive dorsal stripe, these beautiful hamsters live in burrows in the deserts of Mongolia and China. They are not kept as pets.

18. Dobrudja

The Dobrudja – or Romanian – hamster (Mesocricetus newtoni) is closely related to the much more familiar Syrian type that is much loved in our homes.

However, the Dobrudja is not kept as a pet, instead its natural habitat is the arid, shrubby plains of Romania and Bulgaria.

19. Armenian

The Armenian hamster (Nothocricetulus migratorius) also goes by the name gray dwarf – which describes its appearance perfectly. This hamster, unlike many other wild species, is not endangered and is said to be even more common than mice in Armenia!

It has a wide population spread, from Eastern Europe to Asia, and typically lives at least 1,000m above sea level, preferring dry landscapes and semi-deserts.

20. Greater long-tailed

Hamsters are known for having very short tails, however the greater long-tailed (Tscherskia triton) is the exception. Resembling rats more than hamsters, they have long tails, gray coloring and are much larger than most hamster species. They are typically aggressive, whether in the breeding or non-breeding season.

They are not kept as pets, and are native to Siberia, China and the Korean Peninsula – they are also named the Korean hamster.

Having been a hamster parent myself for many years, here are my top hamster care tips to keep your hamster happy and healthy. Hamsters are a super first-time pet –they’re tiny, adorable, and always up to something fun!

Whether they’re zooming around in their wheel or stuffing their cheeks with food, hamsters have a way of making us smile on a daily basis. While they may seem low-maintenance at first glance, these energetic little creatures do need a bit of TLC to stay healthy and happy. If you’re a hamster newbie, knowing the right ways to keep your hamster happy is crucial to help these pocket-sized pets thrive.

Here are 32 simple tips to help you keep your hamster in great shape. From selecting the right diet to filling their cage with exciting (and safe) activities, we have the inside scoop on all you need to know.

32 hamster care tips

1. Choose the right cage

Hamsters may be diminutive but they enjoy having plenty of space. One of the best hamster cages will provide that. Cages are usually made of metal wire, or are tank-style, which is like a plastic aquarium with a lid. The wire cages allow better ventilation, although bear in mind the hamster may try chewing the bars.

The crucial thing is that the hamster has ample space – the bigger the better. A recommendation is a minimum of half a square meter (20 square inches) for the smallest breeds, and 24 square inches for a Syrian (this can include multiple platforms). The PDSA stipulates at least 100 x 50 x 50cm (40 x 20 x 20in), but – put simply – get the largest you can, for a happy hamster. In the wild they can run up to five miles a day (or, more likely, at night)!

2. Type of bedding

There are plenty of rodent beddings on the market that aren’t actually at all suitable for hamsters. The basic rules are that the bedding should allow the hamster to burrow and nest while being water-soluble and free of toxins in case the hamster decides to eat it. Scented bedding may smell appealing, but it’s full of chemicals and therefore unsuitable.

Wood shavings are complicated because there are good and bad woods. Avoid pine and cedar. Cat litter is suitable as a substrate, but needs to be covered with something less dense and softer to allow the hamster to burrow. However, avoid the super-fluffy kapok as it can cause blockages if ingested and the fibers can wrap around delicate feet.

A soft, undyed, paper-based bedding is ideal.

3. Cleaning schedule

As pets go, hamsters are fairly clean animals, with minimal smell – especially the females. However, you should still clean the cage out every couple of weeks or so, as well as spot-cleaning on a more regular basis.

4. Happy hideouts

As hamsters are prey animals, wide open spaces can be scary. Make sure your hamster has plenty of nooks and crannies where he can dive for “safety” as he will feel vulnerable resting without cover.

5. Exercise wheel

Hamsters in the wild run over five miles a night, and your pet hammy will be similarly energetic. Naturally, you cannot provide a cage large enough to allow him to rack up quite such mileage, but a hamster wheel is the ideal solution. Hamsters are incredible in the way they pound on their little treadmill for hours on end – they’d put any human gym bunnies to shame!

Choose your hamster wheel wisely – a solid one is better as their little feet can get caught in the gaps of a wire one. You’ll also need to ensure the diameter is sufficiently long so as not to cause them to arch their back as they sprint.

6. Chew toys

Hamsters’ teeth never stop growing, so they need chews to gnaw on to wear their teeth down. You can get some of the best hamster toys at pet shops, avoiding the sugary treats. A good option is untreated wood, but it’s wise to have a few different toys dotted around the cage to encourage foraging and prevent boredom.

7. Fresh water

Many hamster breeds come from desert areas but that doesn’t mean you can withhold water. Always provide 24-hour access to clean, fresh water, ideally in a sipper water bottle with a metal spout and ball bearing that prevents dripping.

8. The right diet

Wild hamsters eat seeds, cereals, insects, and larvae. The diet we feed these omnivorous creatures should provide all the essential nutrients.

A specifically formulated hamster pellet is ideal, as well as tiny amounts of vegetables or fruit. They can also have some nuts and seeds, millet, mealworm – and even boiled egg for additional protein. Be sure to read up on what hamsters can eat if you are offering any additional food.

Feed from the floor of the cage, either in a flat bowl or directly on the floor. The hamster is likely to squirrel some away in their pouches and take it back to their den for safekeeping.

Do not feed wet food unless specifically advised by your vet as it can cause problems with their pouches.

9. Treats in moderation

If you compare your size and the treats you eat with the respective size of a hamster and his appropriate treat size, you’ll appreciate just how small any additional snacks should be. One tip is that their treats should be no bigger than their ears!

Sugary treats are not appropriate; instead, a teaspoon of hamster-safe fruits or veg, a millet spray, or half a walnut or cashew (always unsalted) are more suitable. They tend to love sunflower seeds and enjoy cracking open the shells. Dried insects such as crickets and mealworms go down well too.

10. Toxic foods

Although hamsters are omnivorous – literally meaning “all-devouring” – there are plenty of foods that hamsters shouldn’t eat. If in doubt, do not feed it, as hamsters have adventurous palettes and might well gobble up something entirely unsuitable with potentially catastrophic consequences.

11. Ambient temperature

Hamsters are great companions for humans because they tend to thrive in similar temperatures to ourselves – around 20–22ºC (68–72ºF), with decent tolerance for a bit above or below.

12. Handle with care

Although hamsters are often touted as a great first pet, they do need careful handling as they are delicate, fragile creatures and can be a little skittish when young and unaccustomed to being picked up.

For this reason, it’s best left to older children and adults. Some hammies enjoy being handled more than others, and they can bite if they feel threatened. Make sure they are fully awake before trying to pick them up – and definitely don’t grab them while they are sleeping so they are not taken by surprise.

13. Social preferences

Do hamsters get lonely? Different hamster breeds and genders have contrasting social preferences. Most hamsters are solitary creatures who only congregate to mate, fight, or raise pups. Some dwarf hamsters may live together – providing there is enough room – but males will nearly always fight due to their territorial instinct. This is a pet so sure of itself that it doesn’t need like-minded company.

14. Noise levels

Hamsters have poor eyesight but excellent hearing – they can even detect ultrasonic sounds. This also means that loud noises can stress them. It’s best to keep them in the quietest area of the house and consider moving their cage when you’re vacuuming or like.

15. Tunnel lovers

Due to a hamster’s burrowing and nesting instincts, they love a tunnel. In the wild, a hamster might dig as far as 2ft down and will make themselves separate little chambers for various activities, such as sleeping, eating, and going to the toilet.

They may prefer digging their own tunnel but are just as likely to pull bedding into the man-made version and make themselves a new hideout.

16. Pouch care

A hamster’s pouches are one of their defining cute features, looking like chubby little cheeks. They stretch all the way back to their shoulders and they use them much like shopping bags to carry food from its source back to its burrow. Keep an eye on the pouches as they can get impacted (wet food can prove problematic), grow abscesses or tumors, or be punctured by an overgrown tooth.

17. Scent marking

Hamsters have an intriguing mode of communication which is via their scent. More prominent in males, they have glands in various places on their bodies (cheeks, flanks, and genitals) which fulfill many roles, such as marking territory, showing they’re ready for matin,g and asserting their place in the social hierarchy.

As a hamster trots around, it releases pheromones which alert other hamsters to its presence as well as help it navigate its own trail. Obviously, this is more useful in the wild, but pet hamsters will still scent mark their territory in their cages – or even on their beloved owners to claim what is theirs!

18. Creatures of the night

Hamsters are nocturnal creatures, which means they are more active at nighttime – and they may be very noisy as they scurry around on their wheels, generally expending plenty of energy. In common with many other prey animals, darkness gives them cover so that they can gather food and make nests without such a risk of being spotted by predators.

Some sources point to hamsters being crepuscular, as they can show some activity at dawn and dusk, but their main busy period is during the night. For this reason, they can be a little disappointing for very small children, as their waking hours do not coincide!

19. Monitor behavior

Hamsters can appear quite self-sufficient: exercising vigorously, gnawing on wood to keep their teeth in good shape, and even collecting food to take back to their lair. However, they benefit from interaction – not least because you’ll learn what is normal for them. You should check them on a daily basis, and at least once a week make a closer inspection of their health. Carefully examine their eyes, fur, skin, tail, nails, and teeth to see that all is healthy.

By picking them up regularly, they will be accustomed to the inspection and will tolerate it well, enabling you to pick up any concerns before they become serious.

20. Provide variety

Hamsters are naturally busy animals when they are awake, so it’s good to provide them with plenty of toys, things to chew on places to hide and burrow. Move the toys and food around regularly so that you mimic the idea of foraging and provide variety in their daily lives.

21. Sand bath

Hamsters do not need bathing in water – in fact you shouldn’t wash them unless specifically instructed by your vet for a particular purpose. However, they do like to bathe – in sand! If you put a tray of hamster-friendly sand (avoid chinchilla dust) in the cage, most hamsters will use it to roll around in. This exfoliates the skin and blots the excess oils, and is a normal daily habit. Be aware that some hamsters (especially the Syrians) might use the sand bath as both a washing and a lavatory facility, so make sure you keep it clean.

22. Pellets or mix

Pellet food is generally recommended as being a better overall diet for hamsters as everything they need is packaged up together. With a mix, they have a tendency to pick out the bits they love (don’t we all?) and therefore might end up being deficient in some nutrients. If you have a hamster that finds pellets boring, one way to get around this is to supplement the pellets with titbits of food they find more interesting, such as nuts, seeds, and insects.

23. Avoid high platforms

Platforms are a great addition to a hamster cage as they increase the surface area for them to take exercise, and boost their sense of exploration. However, be aware that a hamster’s eyesight is poor, so high platforms can be dangerous if they inadvertently fall off. About 5in (15cm) should be the maximum.

And remember hamsters prefer being below ground to above it, so make sure there are always plenty of burrowing opportunities too.

24. Respect their space

Hamsters are solitary animals by nature, but that’s not to say they do not love interacting with humans as many do. However, always be mindful of how they are handled – they may bite if they feel threatened especially if they are not accustomed to it. Remember that they are naturally nocturnal creatures and you cannot force them to be lively and fun just because you’re up and about. If they are burrowing or seeking a safe haven, leave them to their own personal space.

Try feeding them from your hand initially so they get used to your smell and that good things come from you, and go at the hamster’s pace.

25. Check teeth

Hamsters’ teeth never stop growing, so check them regularly. If their teeth become overgrown they can cause pain, or cut into parts of their mouth or pouches. If this happens, they may stop eating. At any sign of dental problems take them to a vet, who can file them down.

And always provide gnawing toys for your hamster to wear down his own teeth, preventing the problem from happening in the first place.

26. Wet tail

“Wet tail” is a common illness in hamsters, particularly young ones. It is highly contagious and causes diarrhea, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

Hamsters have very short, stubby tails, and the name of this illness more accurately refers to the whole area under the tail and around the anus, which will show evidence of watery stools.

It can be fatal so if you suspect your hamster is suffering, head straight to the vet as they need urgent antibiotic treatment.

27. Furry stressballs

Hamsters are highly susceptible to stress, which can manifest itself in several ways. They may lose patches of fur, bite the cage rails, squeak uncharacteristically, or even show unexpected aggression. Make sure their environment is calm, clean, and quiet. Move their cage only when necessary, don’t wear unfamiliar scents around them, limit loud activities to a minimum, and make sure they have plenty of toys and activities to keep them busy in their home.

Familiarize yourself with what is normal for your hamster and be aware of the signs of a stressed hamster to help your tiny friend.

28. Quiet retreat

Hamsters need a cozy den to sleep in. They are likely to pull bedding in to make it soft and warm, so make sure it’s sufficiently big that they can move around and add some bedding.

It doesn’t have to be a state-of-the-art home – most hamsters are happy with a cardboard box, as long as it provides shelter (with a roof) and security. Bear in mind with homemade shelters such as cardboard, they may well chew the walls. But isn’t that part of the fun?

29. Time to tame

Take your time taming your hamster. They don’t arrive fully tamed! They need to get used to you, how you smell, and being handled. Start off by feeding them little titbits and seeing if they will take them from your hand – this is a great sign. When you first pick them up, it’s often a good idea to do so out of the cage, because they are likely to view that as their territory.

You can have a box in the cage which you can remove when the hamster is in it and then he is more likely to be receptive to being handled from there rather than in his den.

30. Hamster houdinis

There are dozens of stories of pet hamsters escaping their enclosure, living wild in the bedroom or utility room only to be found, safe and well, weeks or even months later. Hamsters are brilliant escape artists. If they can find a little nook or cranny through which to escape, they will do so and set off on an adventure. Make sure you handle them in an enclosed area, and don’t let them run off loose as they can get into the tiniest cracks in skirting boards and you’ll struggle to retrieve them.

31. Prey animals

The snag with being a prey animal is two-fold. First of all, they are fair game for the resident dogs and cats, so always keep the hamster separate and not in any place where a predator might be able to stress them out – or worse still, chase him.

Secondly, as a prey animal, they are adept at hiding illnesses and weakness often until it’s too late. So, be vigilant at monitoring their behavior, condition, and appetite, and consult your vet if you have any concerns.

32. Hibernation confusion

You may well ask “Do hamsters hibernate?” – especially if they seem to be spending more time asleep than usual. While hamsters do not hibernate as squirrels and hedgehogs do, they may enter a sleepy, inactive state – particularly if they get too cold or food is limited – as a way of saving energy. So while it is similar to the concept of hibernation, it typically lasts only a few hours or days at most and is known as a torpor. If this happens, increase the ambient temperature and offer food. If you have any concerns, consult a vet.

From their forever-growing front teeth to their inflatable cheeks, there are many funny hamster facts that you (or the kids) may not have come across before.

But if you’ve got some animal lovers who are keen to find out more about what makes these wonderful hamster breeds tick, we’ve done all the digging.

Of course, from the color of their fur to their personalities, all hamsters are different – but that’s what makes them so intriguing. To help you and the kids discover more fun facts about these cute pet pals, stick right here.

Funny hamster facts

1. A hamster's whiskers help them navigate

Just like how humans use a sat nav to help them navigate, a hamster uses its whiskers to do the same.

More scientifically known as vibrissae, these clever facial additions are there to aid the detection of objects. That’s because hamsters are colorblind and unlike a beady-eyed eagle, they haven’t got picture-perfect eyesight.

Instead, a hamster has to use other means to help them explore their environment with ease, without bumping into things or relying on their poor eyesight to keep them safe.

So, according to the RSPCA, hamsters use their whiskers to do so. It's believed these clever additions can vibrate backward and forward at up to 30 ‘whisks’ per second. Known as ‘whisking’, this can help these fur friends gather information about objects in their vicinity.

2. Hamsters hoard food in their cheeks

If you’re the proud pet parent of a hamster, you’ve probably noticed that your hamster’s cheeks change in size throughout the day.

Well, not only do most hamsters have a healthy appetite, but these terrestrial and burrow-digging rodents have cheek ‘pouches’ enabling them to temporarily store food so they carry their goods back to their nesting spot.

When empty, these cheek pouches, formally called displostomes, are composed of four layers around 35–40 mm long and 4–8 mm wide. When full, they can expand up to 20mm wide.

Plus, according to The Laboratory Rabbit, Guinea Pig, Hamster, and Other Rodents journal, female hamsters can put their pouches to even better use — as they tend to place their newborns in it, if stressed.

3. Their teeth never stop growing

When it comes to humans, our noses and ears never stop getting bigger. But for rodents like hamsters, it’s their incisors (so, their upper and lower front teeth) that just keep on growing.

As we touched on, the good news is that hamsters love to eat. In fact, eating is one of the brilliant ways in which they can help keep their teeth in good working order.

Wondering what can hamster eat? Chewing on foods like hard pellets and fresh veg can help the omnivores naturally grind their teeth down. But the same goes for, whole wheat cereal or cucumbers, which are included in our guide to some of the surprising things hamster can eat.

They’ll also love getting their teeth stuck into other objects like gnawing blocks, or some of the best hamster toys, which are specifically made to help keep their nashers at a happy length and lessen the chance of developing overgrown incisors.

4. Hamsters are crepuscular

While most humans might be catching up on some ZZZs during the night and early morning, hamsters are doing the opposite.

According to the National Animal Welfare Trust, hamsters are crepuscular, which means they are most active during dawn and dusk.

Whether it’s running on their hamster wheel, burrowing in their bedding or exploring every inch of one of the best hamster cages, these fur friends come alive during the twilight hours.

To help keep them entertained, the key is to make sure there is plenty for them to do and their cage is comfortable, with a deep layer of bedding.

5. Hamsters can sleep for more than half of the day

Talking of sleep, did you know, hamsters can sleep for up to 14 hours a day? They might be small, but to help restore their batteries, some types of hamsters will spend most of the day asleep.

To make sure they can get enough sleep, it’s wise to place their cage somewhere quiet and out of the way so that these pet pals can rest undisturbed.

All this sleep can lead some hamster pet parents to wonder if hamsters hibernate?’

While these types of fur friends don’t ‘hibernate’, they can experience ‘torpor’ if they face a scarce food supply or get too cold. Torpor can last for a few hours to several days and vets say they might enter this stage to conserve energy and survive.

Now you've learned all about hamsters, why not take a look at some interesting dog facts? Or read up on all the interesting rabbit facts you'll wish you learned sooner?

Do hamsters get lonely? That's a great question. We often see hamsters living quite happily with other hamsters, but are they just as happy on their own? We spoke to vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out.

When thinking about how to bond with your hamster, you probably already know that spending quality time with them is key. We're sure that your mini furry friend loves spending time with you, but it does make you wonder how they are faring when you're away from them.

Are they sad or lonely, or are they happier having their own space in one of the best hamster cages? This feature will lay out if hamsters do, in fact, get lonely and which hamster breeds do better alone.

Do hamsters get lonely?

So, do hamsters get lonely? The ultimate answer is that there is no proof or research to show that hamsters get lonely. Dr. MacMillan says, "Hamsters don’t appear to suffer from loneliness and seem quite happy in their own company."

Hamsters are generally solitary animals. In the wild, they would get together to mate but would not necessarily stay together after that. In fact, hamsters can become quite territorial and even fight if they feel their space has been encroached on.

What kinds of hamster should be kept seperate?

Which hamster breeds should live alone? Syrian hamsters should be housed by themselves.

"Syrian hamsters need to be kept alone, regardless of their gender. In the wild, this species of hamster only usually come together to mate, so housing them together will result in aggression, fighting, and injuries," she goes on to say, "They can be extremely territorial, so from eight to 10 weeks of age, Syrian hamsters need to be separated from their littermates and housed in separate cages."

Can hamster live together?

Chinese hamsters, dwarf hamsters, winter white hamsters, Roborovski hamsters, and Cambell's dwarf hamsters are all species that can safely be kept together. If you are going to have these hamsters living together you'll want to ensure that they are of the same gender and littermates, Dr. MacMillan advises.

How big should a hamster cage be? While a cage for a hamster living alone should be no smaller than 40in x 20in x 20in, you'll want to ensure that there is much more space than that for two hamsters. They will also need plenty of resources to prevent stress and boredom. You'll want to make sure that their home is stocked with plenty of the best hamster toys to keep them busy.

Dr. MacMillan adds, "You will also need to keep a close eye on them, checking regularly for any signs of injuries. If your hamsters start fighting, then you will need to permanently separate them."

Found this helpful? Check out 32 hamster care tips and read our selection of funny hamster facts

Hamsters are omnivores, which means they can eat quite a range of foods. In the wild, they would eat a mix of plants and insects – and even our cute little domestic versions tend to enjoy a range of flavors and textures.

One thing’s for sure, hamsters love their grub. On account of their diminutive stature, they can’t actually eat very much, but they love to rifle through what you offer them, stuff the good bits into their pouches, and take it back to their burrow or the best hamster cage for a hungry moment later on.

Good brands of commercial pet foods should provide the balance of nutrients a hamster needs, but they can also eat many fruits, nuts, and veggies that humans eat (in tiny quantities). The guide is that their daily treat should be no larger than their little ears! Providing them with fresh, natural food every now and then can be stimulating and enriching – but make sure you are not inadvertently feeding them something inappropriate for hamsters. If you are in any doubt, don’t feed it.

Let’s take a look at some of the foods you should not offer your hamster.

32 things hamsters shouldn’t eat

1. Chocolate

Hamsters should never eat chocolate. Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to many animals. Hamsters are slightly more resistant than some other animals, however they do not metabolize it well due to their tiny bodies. Furthermore, chocolate melts and becomes sticky which is problematic for hamsters’ pouches, and it contains caffeine, another unsuitable substance.

2. Caffeinated products

Caffeine is a stimulant that can affect your hamster’s heart rate and metabolism, and should not be given to hamsters. A hamster’s heart already beats at up to 10 beats per second, and you don’t want it going any faster or it may go into cardiac arrest. Caffeine is found not only in drinks such as tea and coffee but also in chocolate and related products.

3. Peanut butter

While peanuts themselves are OK for hamsters to eat and provide a good source of protein in very small quantities, peanut butter is problematic. Its sticky texture means it can get stuck in their pouches. Commercial peanut butter often contains other ingredients such as salt, sugar, or xylitol, which are bad for hamsters to eat.

4. Citrus fruits

Lemons, limes, oranges, and grapefruits are acidic, which can cause irritation to hamsters’ pouches. And while the high levels of vitamin C found in citrus fruits are usually seen as a dietary boon, too much of this vitamin may actually increase the risk of serious disease in hamsters.

5. Onions

Onions can cause hemolytic anemia (a disease in which red blood cells are destroyed faster than they are made), which can result in respiratory problems and heart failure in hamsters. They should not have raw or cooked onions.

6. Garlic

Raw or cooked garlic, like onions, is toxic to hamsters – and many other animals – due to the chemical thiosulfate, which can cause blood disorders and breathlessness.

7. Avocado

Avocados contain persin, a fungicidal toxin that is poisonous to animals. It is present in both the stones and skin and can leach into the flesh and can cause digestive problems. While eating the flesh itself is unlikely to be fatal for your hamster, why take the risk with this high-fat food?

8. Rhubarb

The leaves of rhubarb are particularly poisonous to hamsters, as they contain very high oxalate levels, which can cause serious kidney problems. The stems are also fairly high in oxalates, so are likely to cause digestive upset.

9. Raw potatoes

Raw or green potatoes contain high levels of solanine, which can make your hamster extremely ill. There are plenty of raw vegetables that are healthy and add a nice crunch to your hamster’s diet but the potato is not one of them. Come to think of it, would you eat a raw potato?

10. Unripe tomatoes, leaves and stems

The leaves and stems of the tomato plant – which belongs to the nightshade family – are particularly high in solanine and tomatine, which is also present in unripened or green tomatoes. However, a nice juicy chunk of ripe tomato is fine for your hamster.

11. Candy

However much you think you are treating your hamster to a tasty bit of candy, sweeties are too high in sugar and therefore bad for their teeth and stomach. Candy is highly processed too, and anything that is designed as a human treat is likely to be unsuitable for a hamster.

12. Chips

You might wonder if chips – or crisps in the UK – would be an appropriate crunchy treat for a hamster, but they are a source of unneeded salt and excess fat and should be avoided.

13. Processed meat

Hamsters are omnivores and therefore they can eat meat in small quantities (everything is in minuscule rations with these tiny creatures!). However, processed meat is unhealthy and can lead to obesity – just as it can for humans – and may also contain excessive salt, spices, or chemicals.

14. Dairy products

Although hamsters are able to digest the lactose found in dairy products in their pregastric pouch, these are not something that they would naturally eat out in the wild. While a little chunk of a mild hard cheese may be tolerated, definitely avoid strong or blue cheeses, as well as sticky ones that may cause problems in the pouches.

15. Salted nuts

There are many nuts that are suitable for hamsters to gnaw on in small quantities, including pecans, pistachios, pine nuts, brazil nuts and peanuts. However, they must always be unsalted, so as not to cause harm to their kidneys.

16. Raw beans

While green beans such as runner and string beans are fine for hamsters to eat, uncooked pulses such as kidney beans are not suitable, causing gas and bloating. Even when cooked kidney beans can cause problems (and they’re mushy so sticky in the pouches).

17. Mushrooms

There is not enough evidence on the suitability of mushrooms in a hamster’s diet and therefore they should be avoided. A hamster has a delicate digestive system, and given that the nutritional components of different mushrooms vary widely, it’s best simply to omit them from the diet.

18. Almonds

While many nuts can be nutritionally beneficial for your hamster, the almond throws up a few concerns. Of the two types of almond – bitter and sweet – sweet is considered safe, while bitter is not. You’re unlikely to come across the bitter variety in the shops, given it’s not great for human consumption either. However, as there is some concern that sweet almonds still have trace amounts of the toxic chemical amygdalin, it’s best to stick to giving your hamster the nuts you know won’t cause any harm.

19. Sugary cereals

We know we shouldn’t eat sugary cereal, and nor should our hamsters. The odd flake of a Frostie or Cheerio won’t be harmful, but don’t make it a regular occurrence – hamsters don’t need the sugar rush or the tooth decay.

20. Dried fruit

The scientific jury is out on whether raisins and other vine fruits are actually poisonous to rodents – the RSPCA lists them as unsafe, while some hamster owners report no problems. It is likely that they contain mycotoxins, which can be harmful, and as their long-term effects aren’t known, it’s best to steer clear.

21. Garden flowers

It makes for a pretty Instagram shot, your hamster with a brightly colored flower in its mouth, but are you quite sure you know what your little buddy is eating? While there are many garden flowers, such as cornflowers, roses, and sunflower petals, which are edible for hamsters, there are many which are toxic – for example, tulips.

22. White or processed bread

Most commercial bread is unsuitable for hamsters as it is processed, with added sugar, salt, preservatives, and other unsuitable ingredients. A small amount of homemade, wholegrain bread is a safer option.

23. Pastries

Pastries are highly unsuitable given their high levels of fat, sugar and preservatives, as well as chocolate chips and other potentially toxic ingredients. They’re not great for human waistlines either, but don’t feed the leftovers to the hamster!

24. Spices

Spicy products will upset your hamster’s delicate digestive system, and should be avoided.

25. Artificial sweeteners

Artificial sweetener, such as xylitol, is dangerous for pets, including hamsters. While (we hope) you would be unlikely to add sweetener to your hamster’s food, it is found in many commercial products, such as peanut butter, chips and cereals.

26. Chillies

Like all spicy food, chillies aren’t appropriate hamster fodder, as they can cause gastrointestinal problems, as well as irritate the mouth, throat and pouches.

27. Porridge

Oats are typically fine for hamsters to eat, however, it’s not recommended once you cook it into porridge or oatmeal because wet and sticky food is problematic in the pouches. If you decide you must feed porridge to your hamster, make it loose and watery rather than hard and sticky – and always make it with water, not milk.

28. Sticky food

Any kind of sticky food can cling to the hamster’s pouches and clog them up. This can even lead to infection if something gets stuck.

29. Celery

The problem with celery is the strings that run all the way down the stick and can be a choking hazard. Celery, being mostly water, doesn’t have a high nutritional value, and should only be fed if you remove all the strings. There are other nice crunchy vegetables that are safer, more nutritious, and will take you less time to prepare.

30. Apple seeds

Apples are fine as a treat; their pips are not. The pips contain amygdalin, which converts into the poison cyanide when digested. While we don’t know how many apple pips it would take to cause your hamster problems, it’s worth simply cutting out the core, as you would for yourself.

31. Leeks

As a member of the allium family, leeks are bad for hamsters. They cause disorders of the red blood cells and breathing difficulties. Most pets are affected, including hamsters.

32. Iceberg lettuce

Green, crunchy vegetables are by and large good for your hamster to eat. However, iceberg lettuce is the exception as it is made up mostly of water, with minimal nutritional value, and furthermore can cause diarrhea. Darker greens such as kale and dandelion leaves are a better option.

If you enjoyed this feature why not read up on hamster breeds, hamster facts and find out the answer to the question how long do hamsters live?

Did you know, there are a number of surprising things hamsters can eat? It’s no secret that pocket pals, like hamsters, love to hoard food. From seeds stuffed in their cheek pouches to grains stored around their cage.

But, it’s not just certain seeds and grains that hamsters can eat. For example, did you know that hamsters are actually omnivorous? This means they can eat both plant and animal-based foods.

Of course, there are many different hamster breeds so all hamsters will have different likes and dislikes. But if you're looking to pack some more protein in their diet, or just make their mealtime more exciting, there's a whole list of surprising things hamsters can eat.

32 surprising things hamsters can eat

1. Hard-boiled egg

Packed with protein, a hard-boiled egg isn’t just for humans to enjoy. Hamsters love them too and if given as an occasional treat, it can be a great way to get more all-important protein into their diet.

Just note that you’ll need to make sure the egg is cooked all the way through — so there’s no runniness there at all.

2. Chicken

You might not like your chicken breast plain, but hamsters do when eaten occasionally. Primarily herbivores, hamsters are partial to a strip of chicken.

This protein-packed meat can be given as a treat and will pack their meals with essential vitamins and minerals. Meaning? They’ll have a well-rounded diet and be one happy hamster.

3. Turkey

The same goes for turkey. This white meat is another great source of protein for both humans and their hamster friends and is rich in vitamin B and low in fat.

Again, feed sparingly and always (always!) cook turkey all the way through, and don’t use any oil or seasonings.

4. Cereal

Who isn’t partial to cereal? Well, it seems that hamsters now join this list. These cute little pets love getting their teeth stuck into whole-grain cereals as a snack.

A very (very) small portion should do it — we’re talking a cluster or two — and avoid giving them any cereal that has added sugar.

5. Whole wheat crackers

Another type of crunchy food your little chewer will love? Crackers. If you intend to feed your hamsters crackers, just make sure they are of the whole wheat kind.

If given to them in small amounts, these are perfectly fine to weave into their diet every now and then.

6. Cranberries

It turns out these little pocket pets have something in common with guinea pigs, birds, and bearded dragons — they all love snacking on cranberries.

While fresh cranberries, in moderation, won’t do any harm to hamsters, vets recommend giving cranberry juice a swerve. Cranberries contain fiber and vitamin C. However, they are also packed with sugar, so should only be given to pets sparingly.

7. Cucumber

Cucumbers are another veggie to add to your hamster’s food list. Packed with essential vitamins and minerals, cucumbers are a super hydrating treat for your pocket pet.

If you do decide to add this green veg to their diet, remember to wash it thoroughly, slice thinly, and introduce it slowly — around one or two times a week.

8. Zucchini

Otherwise known as the humble courgette in the UK, word on the street is that hamsters are big fans of zucchini. Cut this fresh veg up super small, skin included, and your furry friend will be happy.

9. Chickpeas

A hamster’s taste buds are well-established. So much so that some hamsters can eat the likes of legumes, like chickpeas. Chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans, are extremely high in protein and dietary fiber and can be fed to your hamster as a treat.

10. Bell pepper

Got some sweet bell peppers left over in your fridge? Instead of letting them go to waste, why not add these veggies, packed with vitamin C, antioxidants, and other nutrients, into your hamster’s diet? Of course, moderation is key, but your four-legged friend might just enjoy the color and crunch of these additions.

11. Apple

As long as they’re peeled, de-seeded, and chopped into bite-sized pieces, so your little rodent can fit inside its mouth safely, hamsters can eat apples in very small amounts. Just remember not to go overboard. You don’t want to upset their stomach!

12. Basil

It’s not just some fruits that hamsters are a fan of — they love some herbs, like, basil too. The green herb has anti-inflammatory properties and is packed with vitamins A and C. So not only will adding basil introduce some flavor and variety into your little fur friend's diet, but it will also support their immune system.

13. Kale

Hamsters are omnivores at heart. So if given the chance, they’ll love nothing more than tucking into the leafy green veg. Feeding your hamster green vegetables like kale is a great way of keeping them happy and healthy.

And the great thing about this leafy green is that it will do just that. High in fiber, calcium, and vitamin C, kale is delicious and nutritious even for hamsters.

14. Mealworms

Looking for new ways on how to bond with your hamster? Feed them food they love, like mealworms. Of course, mealworms might not be just something you have lying around. However, most reputable pet stores will sell dried mealworms by the dozen. In the wild, this is something hamsters might forage for. And for good reason: they’re packed with protein.

15. Cauliflower

Raw cauliflower is another surefire way to your hamster’s heart. Most fur friends will gobble up these treats in minutes. But there are a few things to remember: make all florets bite-size and only feed them a small amount. These loveable rodents are only small, after all!

16. Spinach

There’s no denying hamsters have wide and varied taste buds. Along with fresh fruit, they’re also partial to another leafy green veg, like spinach. Be sure to wash this veg before you feed it to them raw and without repeating what has come before: they only need a little!

17. Strawberries

Strawberries are another type of fruit that your four-legged fur friend will be happy to munch their way through. However, due to their high sugar content, these sweet red berries should only be given as a treat.

18. Cheese

Wondering if you can feed cheese to your hamster? Well, wonder no more! Most hamsters will love the taste of cheese but if you plan on giving this to them, it needs to be in moderation. High in fat and sodium, cheese wouldn’t be the healthiest of treats. But that said, if you do intend to do so, low-fat cottage cheese or mozzarella are your best bets.

19. Seedless grapes

In the great outdoors, hamsters eat a manner of seeds. But not every seed is equal. While grapes are safe for your pocket pal to eat, the fruit’s pit won't be. So if you're going to feed them this fruit, opt for grapes that are seedless.

20. Crickets

Another type of insect these omnivores will have no trouble eating? Crickets. Rich in vitamins A, C, D, E, and K, these treats are protein-packed, and high in iron, magnesium, and calcium. So can help your hamster get a well-balanced diet.

21. Pumpkin seeds

When added to their diet in moderation, your little chewer will happily pop these seeds into their cheek pouch for safekeeping or gobble them down straight away. Again, small portions are best because these seeds are high in fat and low in other nutrients. But that’s not to say they can’t be given as a little treat.

22. Whole grain bread

Another food you might not have thought hamsters can eat is whole-grain bread. Now, while this type of bread can technically be eaten by your pocket pal, that’s not to say it’s something they should be eating day in, day out, or week in, week out. A little bit is fine as a treat.

23. Raspberries

Again, within reason, small amounts of raspberries will go down a treat for your little fur friend. Containing antioxidants like vitamin C and fiber, in small amounts, these soft fruits will help to contribute to a healthy diet.

24. Raisins

Considering hamsters can eat grapes, it probably comes as no surprise that these serial snackers can also eat raisins. Containing fiber and antioxidants, if given sparingly, raisins are OK for your hamster.

25. Sweetcorn

If you're keen on feeding your pocket pal vegetables, you might be wondering whether hamsters can eat corn? Rich in folate, hamsters will love the taste and crunch of sweetcorn kernels.

26. Bananas

Another fruit that is bound to go down a treat is bananas. However, they won’t be able to survive on a portion of bananas alone. This should only be given sparingly due to their high natural sugar content.

27. Cantaloupe

Yes, hamsters can eat cantaloupe. But you should remove the rind before feeding it to them. Containing vitamin A, B6, vitamin C, and fiber, Cantaloupe melons are only suitable for hamsters when given in moderation.

28. Mango

As you may have already guessed, mangoes are high in natural sugar content. So while it’s perfectly safe for your hamsters to eat this stoned fruit as a treat, it will need to be given sparingly and they’ll still need other foods like their pelleted diet.

29. Blueberries

If given in moderation, hamsters will love the fruity bursts of goodness blueberries can bring. So keep the quantities low and cut up the fruit into manageable chunks so your hamster can hold it and feed themselves easily.

30. Carrot

These crunchy, orange veggies are high in vitamin A, which can help with eye health. Just remember to cut these into small bite-sized options and feed sparingly because they might be a vegetable but they still contain sugar.

31. Cabbage

Another green vegetable joins our list! When washed thoroughly and thinly shredded cabbage offers up a nutritious way for your fur friend to pack their diet full of nutrients like vitamin C and fiber.

32. Broccoli

The green counterpart to cauliflower, very small florets of broccoli are suitable to give to your hamster. As is the case with all fruit and veg, you’ll need to wash it before placing it in your hamster’s food bowl and give it to them raw.

For more advice on looking after hamsters, check out how to help a stressed hamster and how to play with a hamster. Or for something less serious, we’ve also got some funny hamster facts for you to enjoy

A sand bath for hamsters may sound like a strange way to keep clean, but believe it or not, regularly rolling around in sand not only removes grease and dirt from your pocket pet’s skin, it also does a great job of deterring parasites from setting up camp in their fur.

While hamsters are very clean creatures who do a great job of grooming themselves, most hammy’s love rolling about and playing in dry sand. On top of being a fun way to amuse themselves and give their mental wellbeing a boost, sand is a wonderful way to give them a helping hand in keeping their fur clean.

An essential part of the best hamster cage setup, giving your fur friend regular access to a sand bath in their enclosure will ensure they stay happy and healthy. And unlike the kind of bath we give our canine companions, sand baths require no water or shampoo and are super easy to set up.

Check out our guide to the best hamster toys or read on to discover everything you need to know about sand baths for hamsters, including whether they’re a necessity and how to set one up. 

What is a sand bath for hamsters?

A sand bath isn’t the typical kind of bath that you’re probably used to giving yourself and other pets. It doesn’t involve any water or lathering agents and is basically just a container that’s been filled with hamster-safe sand.

With a normal bath, shampoo is mixed with water to cleanse the hair of dirt, excess oils and debris. With a hamster bath, the sand does all the work, removing grease and grime from your pocket pets fur as they roll about in it.

Does my hamster need a sand bath?

Hamsters do not like water baths, and for good reason - water washes away the natural oils in your hammy’s coat that protect the skin and removing these can result in all sorts of problems, ranging from irritation to infection. 

Technically, hamsters don’t need sand baths as they’re wonderfully hygienic little creatures who do a great job of keeping their coats clean. But from time to time, even the most fastidious groomers can look a bit grubby and that’s where providing your hammy with access to a sand bath can come in handy.

Besides, even if your fur friend isn’t dirty, letting them frolick about in a sand bath every few days can work wonders for their wellbeing. Hamsters get a great deal of joy from rolling around in sand, so letting them indulge in this fun pastime can be a fantastic way of giving their mental health a boost.

How to make a sand bath for hamsters

You’ll be delighted to learn that making a sand bath for your pocket pet couldn’t be easier - or more affordable. All you need to pull together the perfect sand bath is the right kind of container (shallow, clean and big enough for your hammy to move around in) and some pet-friendly sand.

Unlike chinchilla dust baths, it’s really important that you stick to sand-based products that are safe for hamsters to roll about in as anything dust-based has the potential to cause your fur friend respiratory problems.

Here are a few of our favorite options for containers and sand that you can use for making your bath: 

When it comes to how much sand to put into the container that you’re using, you want enough that your hammy can roll about without their body coming into contact with the bottom or sides of the sand bath container. Don’t fill it to the brim, but make sure there’s a decent amount in there for them to be comfortable.

Cleaning your hamsters sand bath

It’s important that you clean your hamster's sand bath regularly as dwarf hamsters in particular will often spend ages rolling around in the sand, which means it’s going to get dirty fairly quickly. Not to mention the fact that they’ll also likely use it as a toilet!

Depending on how often you let your fur friend take a bath, we recommend using a mesh sifter every few days to a week to remove debris and urine-clumped sand. The sand itself can either be washed and dried every month and reused or you can replace it with fresh sand. 

If you’re thinking of getting a pocket pet, then you might be questioning, ‘How long do hamsters live?’ Before you commit to a new furry friend, it’s important to manage your expectations and understand how long they’ll be around for.

Pet hamsters live between 1.5 to 4 years which is considerably less than small pets like rabbits, who can live up to around 12 years. So, if you want a companion for a longer period of time, you might want to keep that in mind.

Below, we reveal which hamster breeds live the longest and how to tell when they’re getting older. We’ve also shared our top tips for keeping them around for longer, like keeping them in the best hamster cage that’s big enough and hygienic.

How long do hamsters live in the wild?  

Wild hamsters tend to live longer than pet hamsters if they manage to escape their predators. The Syrian hamster, for example, generally lives between 2-3 years, but can live longer in captivity. The European hamster can live up to eight years in the wild.

How long do hamsters live for as pets?  

Pet hamsters tend to live between 1.5 and four years, although some can live longer depending on their care and the species.

These are the average lifespans of pet hamsters by breed:

• Golden/Syrian Hamster – 2-4 years
• Siberian Hamster – Around 2 years
• Chinese Hamster – 2-3 years
• Roborovski Dwarf Hamster – Around 3 years
• Campbell’s Dwarf Russian Hamster – Around 2 years

You might also want to read our guide on the different hamster breeds.

Life cycle of a domestic hamster 

Hamsters do not tend to have very long life cycles. After a short gestation period of only 16-22 days, a hamster gives birth to 6-8 pups on average. The pups are born deaf, blind and hairless. They are, however, one of the few animals born with teeth.

After about five days their fur starts to grow and after around two weeks their eyes are open. Pups are looked after by their mother for around 28 days. At this point mothers tend to be separated from their pups, who become sexually mature from 4-6 weeks.

Males and females are also separated at this stage as breeding is more successful after 10 weeks. Before this hamsters may be not survive. A female hamster can become pregnant again 24 hours after birth. Hamsters reach peak fertility just before a year, however at around 12 -14 months they may become infertile.

What factors affect a hamster's lifespan?  

If you want to know how to care for a hamster and ways to help your hamster live longer these are the factors you need to consider:

1. A healthy diet

What can hamsters eat? As omnivores hamsters need a mix of both protein and veg. Do your research and make sure that, whether you’re buying their food or making it yourself, they are receiving the correct amount and all the nutrients they need. A Syrian hamster, for example, requires two teaspoons of food a day; a dwarf hamster needs just one teaspoon.

There are a number of foods that are toxic to hamsters including chocolate, onions and garlic, potatoes and tomato leaves. Certain foods such as iceberg lettuce, peanuts and citrus fruits should also be avoided to keep your hamster healthy.

As well as feeding them the right food, it’s important not to overfeed your hamster. It’s not always necessary to fill their food dish with food if it’s empty as hamsters tend to hide food.

2. Enough exercise

Hamsters not only need exercise to stay healthy, but happy too. The best way to ensure they get enough exercise is to buy them a hamster wheel for their cage.

Hamsters love to run and will happily do so for hours. You can also get climbing toys and monitor playtime outside their cage. This is important because if they don’t get enough exercise, you might find your hamster biting their cage, becoming restless or trying to escape.

While you might think about getting your hamster tunnels and tubes to exercise with, if you do, make sure the tubes are big enough as Syrian hamsters, for example, tend to get stuck and this can be quite traumatic for them.

If the tubes are attached to the walls, make sure they are secure so your hamster does not suffer a fall and injure themselves. Tubes and tunnels can be dangerous if they’re not kept simple. Avoid anything too steep or convoluted.

3. Know how to handle them

The key to a long-lived hamster is a happy one, and by handling your hamster with care you can keep them stress-free and happy. Make sure only a small number of people handle your hamster and that they all know how to do this.

Always approach your hamster slowly, make sure they are awake, and alert and make eye contact before picking them up. Then use two hands (make sure you’ve washed them) – one beneath them and one above them to ensure they are safe.

Here are some ways to keep your hamster happy and some reasons why your hamster is scared of you.

4. Keep other pets away from them

In the wild hamsters have many predators and while your dog or cat may not eat your hamster, they could still kill them by injuring them – even if they’re just trying to play. Make sure your hamster’s cage is secure and that they’re kept away from other pets, especially when they’re outside the cage.

5. The right size cage

How big should a hamster cage be? Cage size is one of the most important factors to ensure the health of your hamster. If their cage is not big enough they can become distressed. When it comes to cage size, bigger is better but you can research the best dimensions for each breed.

Syrian hamsters should have a cage with at least 620 square inches of floor space while dwarf hamsters need at least 450 square inches. If you have more than one hamster, you’ll need double the size cage.

Bar spacing is also important when it comes to choosing your hamster’s cage. You don’t want your hamster escaping through or getting stuck between the bars so research the best bar spacing for different breeds.

Syrian hamsters need no more than 0.5 inches and dwarf hamsters need no more than 0.25 inches of space between the bars.

6. A clean cage

To avoid your hamster getting ill from germs or bacteria, clean their cage regularly. Clear any old food or waste from your hamster’s cage once a day, carry out a deep clean once every one or two weeks including taking everything out of the cage, washing its bedding and wiping the entire cage down with a 50/50 mix of water and vinegar. Read our guide on how to clean a hamster cage.

7. A healthy environment

Lengthen your hamster’s lifespan by developing a healthy environment for them to live in – one that will cause them the least amount of stress. Hamsters do not like loud noises so try to create a quiet, peaceful space for them. The temperature and humidity of their cage is also key.

The ideal temperature for a hamster is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and the ideal humidity is about 40 percent. You can check your hamster is happy with the temperature and humidity by making sure they are not sweating, shivering or finding it hard to breathe, losing their energy or appetite or drinking more than usual. Check for signs of stress to ensure a healthy environment. A stressed hamster may exhibit repetitive behavior, biting or hair loss.

Make sure your hamster is comfortable. This includes the right type of bedding made from paper, wood, vegetables or grain as these are absorbent.

They must also lead an enriched life to be healthy and happy. This means providing them with a variety of toys that are safe for them, but also keep them physically and mentally stimulated.

How to tell if your hamster is getting older 

Regardless of breed, if your hamster reaches the age of two they are considered old, but there are a number of other signs to show you that they are ageing:

• Hair loss - As hamsters get older they may lose their hair
• Eye problems - Hamsters don’t have great eyesight to start with, but as they age they can suffer from eye problems such as cataracts or even loss of eyesight. If you notice your hamster’s eyes turn more white this could be the case, but they can still use their other senses and lead a happy life.
• Loss of appetite - As your hamster gets older they may lose their appetite or become fussier eaters. This could be because their teeth or digestive system need softer foods. Try steamed broccoli, rice or omelette.
• Less energy - Older hamsters will start to slow down, expending less energy and sleeping more. They may also suffer from arthritis and have more trouble moving, bumping into their cage more often.
• Problems with their teeth - Hamsters’ teeth grow throughout their lives. Usually their teeth are filed down when they chew on food, but as they get older and start eating softer foods they may need to be taken to the vet to have their teeth filed down. Older hamster teeth may also break more easily.
• Cleaning habits - Not only will an older hamster groom itself less as it gets more tired, but their toilet habits will change. An older hamster may urinate in various spots in their cage including their bedding. However there may be fewer droppings if your hamster is eating less. Make sure you check their digestion and if they need to go see a vet.

We've also written a guide on the most common hamster illnesses and do hamsters hibernate.

Who is the longest living hamster ever recorded?

The longest living hamster ever recorded lived until he was 4.5 years old and made it into the Guinness Book of World Records. We know that he was owned by Karen Smeaten and lived in Tyne & Wear, but his name has not been recorded.

Want more advice? In this feature, we answer, ‘Why is my hamster sleeping in the corner of their cage and we answer the question, Do hamsters get lonely?

It's important to invest in one of the best hamster cages for your pocket pet and there is certainly a lot to think about when making your decision as, according to scientists, the type of cage you buy can affect a hamster's health. Since they'll be spending most of their life inside a cage, it needs to be as stress-free an environment as possible.

Size and what a hamster can do inside a cage are crucial factors. “Hamsters need a surprising amount of space – in the wild they would cover large distances looking for food as well as doing a lot of digging,” explains veterinarian Dr Joanna Woodnutt MRCVS. Thankfully, there are many different types of cages on the market so there's bound to be one that best suits your pet.

Below, we take a look at the best hamster cages on sale today, bearing in mind the need to keep your furry friend mentally and physically enriched with sufficient room to stretch their legs. While we have considered compact designs for those who simply don't have lots of room in their home or dorm, most of the picks are either large, expandable or full of things for a hamster to do.

As you'll see, hamster cages have come on in leaps and bounds over the past decade or so – just as the best hamster toys go well beyond the wheel. You can now pick up modern-looking mini-homes, colorful crates and spacious travel cages alongside the more traditional offerings. You can also find a variety of materials from wire to wood.

So check out how to set up a hamster cage and get stuck in as we take a look at the best hamster cages on the market.

The best hamster cages 2024

The best hamster cages 2026

Best overall hamster cage

Hamsters need floor space, somewhere to sleep and accessories to keep them active and entertained. The Favola Hamster Cage has all of this and more, making it the best hamster cage overall and a great one-stop option for your hammy and you.

The hamster cage consists of two parts. Effectively an upstairs and downstairs. The base – the downstairs – measures 23.6 x 14.4 in height and width, and an impressive 4.75-inches in height. This provides a nice deep base to fill with plenty of bedding and gives your furry friend plenty of burrowing room. The design of the base also means that the bedding will stop spreading to the top floor.

A steep plastic ridged walkway takes your hamster to the upper floor. This a flat area that includes the essential extras. There is a food dish, water bottle, hideaway and a 5.5-inch exercise wheel. The wheel is neatly integrated into the floor and easily accessible via the base. If you want to upgrade to a bigger wheel there is plenty of room.

The top floor is covered by a standard wire cage that is kept in place by a couple of quick release latch side clips. These make it easy to take off the top for cleaning. A door on top of the cage gives easy access to the top floor and your hamster. If you want to expand the cage there is a single connection port to add a tube to a whole new bunch of activity/sleeping areas. The combination of the base and the top floor make this hamster ideal for most hamster breeds.

The quality of the cage is reflected in the price. It does a job and will last but if you want to give your small furry friend more excitement and entertainment you will need to invest in better quality accessories.

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Best budget hamster cage

If you want a home for your happy hamster that will keep them entertained, provide plenty of exercise, has room for expansion and won't break the bank then this is the best hamster cage for you.

The Midwest Critterville Arcade Hamster Cage comes at a budget price but still provides plenty of features and accessories. It consists of a standard style cage and a multi-level vertical play space. The cage isn’t huge, it measures 18.11 x 11.4-inches in length and width, ideal for small hamster breeds. But, with the addition of the multi-level play space your furry friend will have plenty to keep them entertained. The cage is deep enough to provide plenty of bedding for one of a hamster's favorite pastimes – burrowing. And it comes with a top opening door for easy access and includes a food bowl and water bottle.

A selection of interior play tubes connect the cage to the multi-level play space. It’s here where your furry friend can really play, exercise and rest. There are two platforms and three sets of non-slip ramps that lead to a nest nook and exercise wheel. A neat addition to the multi-level play space is a removable clear plastic cover. This makes it easy to clean the area and of course, watch your hamster in action.

If you want to expand your furry friends living quarters you can. There is a connecting ring in the cage to expand sideways with more tubes and another cage. A connecting ring in the top of the vertical play space means there is room to build upwards as well. This is a great cage for starting out and perfect for expansion as your hamster grows.

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Best multi-level hamster cage

If you're looking to give your hammy plenty of room to roam about in, this 3-tier wooden cage is well worth considering. With multiple platforms and ladders for your pocket pet to play, climb and rest, this is one hamster habitat that really does have it all.

We love that this hamster cage comes fully accessorized, with chewing toy, feeding bowl, hideouts, seesaws, ramps and a no-leak plastic tray for easy cleaning. The overall size is 38.98"L x 19.69"W x 24.02"H, so there's plenty of room for you pocket pets to stretch out in.

Made from 100% non toxic wood and acrylic, this cage features wooden flooring instead of wire to reduce the risk of accidents, and it come with a wire top to allow plenty of fresh air to circulate through the cage.

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Best top-of-the-line hamster cage

First things first - this is not a cheap hamster cage, in fact, it's definitely one of the more expensive models we've seen on the market, but if your budget can stretch to it, this little beauty will not only make a great habitat for your hammy, it'll look fantastic in your home too!

Made from eco-friendly and safe MDF Aspen and Birch wood, the boards are extra thick, which creates a very durable and stable cage. Available in small, medium and large sizes, the interior is spacious and offers your hamster plenty of room to move about in.

The three side boards and the roof are all transparent, so there's plenty of opportunity for you to observe your hammy from all angles, and the roof vent allows plenty of air to circulate. The inclined skylight, which is the access point for this cage, is nice and wide, so you'll find it easy to get your hammy and their accessories in and out.

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Best large hamster cage

Bigger is better when it comes to the best hamster cages. The more room your furry pet has to run around in, the happier and healthier they will be. The Savic Hamster Heaven Metro Cage is big by hamster cage standards. It measures 31.5 x 20 x 20 inches, that's nearly three feet in length and nearly two foot wide and high. This makes it perfect for all breeds of hamster and ideal for more than one (if your breed is happy with a companion).

It comes with a large deep base that provides plenty of room for bedding. Your hamster can tunnel until their heart’s content and there’s plenty of room for accessories. And the Savic comes with plenty of them. It includes a tunnel that takes your hamster above the wire cage, an exercise wheel, two houses, a penthouse, a water bottle, non-slip ramps and a couple of platforms with feeding bowls. Pretty much everything your furry friend could wish for. But all these accessories mean it does take a while to put the cage together.

Even with all these accessories included there is still plenty of room to add more. You could add a nesting area, a gnawing block, an extra ladder or a hanging hamster house to give them complete privacy.

The wire cage is firmly attached by two clips making it easy to take off and clean. It also boasts two doors – a large front door for quick and easy access and a smaller top door. The Savic is a large hamster cage, which makes it a little more difficult to move. But, two strong carry handles make the job much easier. This cage is a great option for any hamster but ideal if you want to put two together.

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Best modern design hamster cage

The average hamster cage is the ideal home for your hamster but not always the ideal fit for the interior style of your home. The Geneva is different, it boasts a unique contemporary two-story design for the modern home. It is slim in size meaning you have more options on where you want to put the cage. And the smart grey colour and curved edges means it will look good anywhere. However, the small footprint makes this more suitable for a single dwarf hamster, rather than a larger breed.

But, it's not all about looks, it has plenty of features to keep your hamster happy as well. The cage is effectively two parts. The bottom half of the cage is a deep transparent plastic tank. The ideal environment to add loads of bedding and the opportunity for your hamster to get some serious burrowing done. It also acts as a great viewing platform. No wire bars to obscure the view of your happy hamster running around their cage.

You can close off the top part of the cage by pulling up the long ladder. Then all you need to do is pull out the transparent tank – via the integrated handle – to clean. You can quickly empty the old bedding, wash, add new bedding and put back in no time at all.

The top half of the cage is a dedicated play area and comes equipped with a feeding bowl, exercise wheel and a water bottle. There is no nesting box or gnawing block so you will need to get these yourself. The wire cage has a large front door for easy access to the whole top floor. If you are worried your hamster might escape, put them in the bottom tank while you clean the top.

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Best eco-friendly hamster cage

If you want to go green when purchasing a hamster cage then this is definitely your best choice. Hamster cages are usually made from plastic and metal, both man-made materials. Neither of these are as environmentally-friendly as the wooden Ferplast Hamsterville. It is made from all natural, sustainable, liquid-resistant wood and is accompanied by a strong robust wire net cage. Note that the wood comes from forests that are managed in a responsible way.

The cage comes as a self-assembly kit so you will need some DIY skills and a few basic tools to put it together. But once the cage has been assembled you will have a strong, sturdy, attractive cage for your furry friend to wander around in. And, as it is made from wood you do have the option to paint it any colour you want. Just make sure you buy pet-safe paint.

The Hamsterville measures 22.75 x 12.25 x 2.6-inches, a good size for all hamster breeds, and plenty of space for a dwarf breed. The base is deep enough to contain ample bedding for digging and burrowing. While, the cage design conveniently allows for the base to be pulled out, emptied, cleaned and replaced quickly.

To keep your hamster fit and well the Hamsterville hamster cage comes equipped with a wooden hamster hide-out and three wood platforms and ladders. Additional accessories include a 5.5-inch plastic exercise wheel, plastic water bottle and a plastic food dish. There are no connecting rings here so you won’t be able to expand the cage easily. But there are two doors – one top, one on the side – to give easy access to your furry friend.

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Best chew-proof hamster cage

Is your hamster a master escapologist? Are they liable to chew their way through normal cages in a matter of hours? Then you need the Fort Knox of cages – the Little Friends Mayfair Gerbilarium Cage.

Instead of plastic, the base of this cage is glass, meaning any aggressive chewers won't be making their way out of the bottom of this habitat. Sitting on top of this is a cage made of thicker than usual metals bars, perfect for defying naughty nibblers. It also looks great, making a pleasant addition to any household.

The glass base is deep too, ensuring there's plenty of room for burrowing and hiding activity, and as the whole metal top of the cage comes away you get easy access for cleaning and retrieving your little hamster when it's playtime.

The cage includes an exercise wheel, house, bowl and some fun scalable wooden ramps and shelves so your hamster will have multiple levels to explore. The ramps and shelves are moveable too, so you can introduce a little variety into their habitat every time you clean it. Note this doesn't come with a water bottle included, so you will need to source that separately.

Some users have mentioned that as the wooden shelves and ramps come untreated, it may be worth using a little animal-friendly varnish to ensure if they mess on them they won't start to discolour or smell. You also may find the ramps a little long for all configurations, but they can easily be cut down with a saw.

These are minor quibbles though, especially if your main consideration is keeping your pet inside its cage!

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Best for burrowing

In the wild, hamsters live in deep burrows so a cage that encourages these tiny pets to tap into their natural instincts is no bad thing. The cage's easily removable base is 11.5 inches high and it can be packed with material. There's also a plastic ramp that allows them to easily clamber back into the main top level that is also pleasantly spacious, certainly for dwarf hamsters.

Here you will find a range of accessories that will continue to mentally and physically stimulate your hammy. There's a 5.5-inch exercise wheel, tubes that allow them space to run around and a little hideaway which gives them a nice place to rest. It's also designed to keep added expenditure down because it comes complete with a food dish and a water bottle. Just add some toys.

The cage is hot on practicality too. A large grill is located on top of the cage which means you can gain easy access. The various parts of the cage also come apart so that you can clean them and quickly reassemble. Since it's all made from a clear plastic, you can see everything your hamster is doing as well. It should make for a secure, safe and fun environment.

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Best dwarf hamster cage

Measuring 7.3L x 13.8W x 11.8H inches, this comfortable and cozy habitat is ideal for dwarf hamsters and comes with a 238.7 square inch bottom basin that's over 5.5 inches in height - perfect for a thick layer of bedding that your little pocket pet can burrow into.

With a front door and a roof vent, there's plenty of opportunity for fresh air to flow freely throughout this cage and because the top roof disconnects from the base for easy cleaning, you'll find keeping your hammy's home spick and span a piece of cake.

Fully transparent, you'll be able to watch your hammy at rest and at play and the tube joint hole in the tray of the cage allows you to attach various tube joint supplies to increase the activity space for your furry friend.

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How to choose the best hamster cage

As you can see, there's a lot of choice so how can you be sure you're buying the best hamster cage? There are certain features to bear in mind before taking the plunge and making a purchase these are:

Sufficient space

The main concern is that a hamster cage is large enough for your pet – after all, hamster breeds need lots of space to run and play. According to experts, you shouldn't go below a cage with a floorspace of 24” x 12” x 12” but don't take that as something to aim for. Always try to go much bigger if you can, especially if you have a larger Syrian hamster. A smaller cage is only really going to be suitable for dwarf hamsters.

Plenty of height

Just as you wouldn't like to live in a house where the ceiling skims your head, so a hamster would like to have plenty of clearance above them. By having a vertical play space, you can encourage a hamster to become more active, allowing the placing of ladders, large wheels and more so that they can exercise and remain healthy.

A good amount of depth

As well as thinking high, think low! As you'll know, hamsters love to burrow. It's a way to protect themselves and stay safe and they will generally burrow when they're about to sleep. By ensuring the cage has a deep base upon which you can place plenty of bedding, you will be providing an opportunity for the hamster to dig. The deeper the base, the better.

Room for the basics

A hamster doesn't live a minimalist lifestyle and it won't enjoy residing in a bare cage. To provide mental and physical stimulation, you will need to include essentials such as a food bowl, water bottle, an exercise wheel and a nesting area for privacy. If you can get connecting tubes in there as well, then you can create mini-extensions to provide more space. And make sure there is room for lots of toys without making the cage feel cramped.

Easy to maintain

You also have to think about yourself. While you will inevitably prioritize the health and wellbeing of your hamster, you do need to consider how much of a pain a cage is going to be. Check to see if it's easy to clean – usually by figuring how accessible the base will be. You also need to look out for cages with large doors, making it easier to reach in. Just be sure they are strong and secure.

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What cage is best for hamsters?

So you've seen what goes into the decision-making process but what do the experts suggest? Well, as we explained above, size is everything. “Your chosen hamster cage should be large,” says veterinarian Dr Joanna Woodnutt MRCVS.“The best ones are over a meter in length and over half a meter in width.”

She also says that a cage needs to be deep and, importantly, capable of keeping the bedding intact! “Ideally, it will have 25–30cm of compressed bedding across the bottom for hamsters to dig in, so you will need a cage with solid sides at the bottom to prevent bedding spillage.”

And then there is the height! “Your cage will also need to be tall enough to take this much bedding and have some ‘above ground’ space. Using platforms in your hamster cage allows houses and wheels to be held up and prevents ‘caving in’ when they dig their tunnels,” she adds.

Can hamsters stay in a cage all day?

Remember the lockdowns? More likely than not, they made you feel trapped given you weren't allowed outside. But do hamsters go stir crazy? According to Dr Woodnutt, that depends on the cage you've provided. “If they have an excellent cage, hamsters can stay in there all day,” she says. Yet note that word “excellent”!

To keep a hamster in a cage you have to be absolutely sure that their environment is a welcoming one. The cage will need to be large and offer plenty of opportunity for a hamster to exercise and remain mentally stimulated. Alas, this isn't always the case.

“Most cages do not provide enough exercise opportunities and hamsters may need to be let out to exercise,” says Dr Woodnutt. And, for that reason, it's recommended that you let your hamster out of their cage several times a week. So where should you put them?

The experts suggest placing a hamster in a playpen or another enclosed space free from potential hazards, such as other pets, electrical wires, and food scraps that could be toxic. You should ensure that your hamster can't escape, though, otherwise you may need to figure out how to find a lost hamster.

Being aware of some of the most common hamster illnesses is vital if you’re the proud parent of a pocket pet. That’s because, as with many ‘small furry’ pets, hamsters are prey animals and can be quite good at hiding signs of disease, which means that some problems aren’t detected until things are quite serious.

It’s a good idea if you own a hamster to be aware of the range of likely health issues that could crop up over the course of their lifetime. Below, we walk you through each of these as well as giving you some tips on how to help prevent your pocket pet from becoming ill. While we’ll be covering the more common diseases in this piece, it’s important to note that your vet may have other suggestions depending on their examination of your pet.

• Best hamster toys
• Best hamster cages

The most common hamster illnesses 

As with any animal, there are a range of illnesses that could potentially affect your hammy over the course of their life. Here are the most common ones to be on the lookout for:

1. ‘Wet tail’

‘Wet tail’ is also known as proliferative ileitis or regional enteritis. This condition is highly contagious among hamsters causing them to have severe diarrhoea, inappetence and lethargy. The exact cause is not clear but a bacteria called Lawsonia intracellularis is thought to contribute, alongside sudden changes in diet and overcrowding. It most commonly affects young or weaning hamsters, and can be fatal, so urgent treatment is required from your vet. Other types of digestive issues can cause similar symptoms in hamsters.

2. Respiratory tract problems

Respiratory issues can cause sneezing, more laboured breathing and increased sounds (like squeaking or grunting). Respiratory problems can be caused by infections such as viruses or bacteria but could also be due to allergies. Reactions to dust in their bedding and environment can occur, so trying hypoallergenic bedding and increasing the ventilation to your cage may be a good idea if your vet has ruled out other concerns.

3. Eye infections

Eye issues can go alongside respiratory tract problems, with watery eyes often being seen at the same time as sneezing and breathing problems. You may also get an infection because of a foreign item that has been embedded into the soft tissue around the eye (like a sharp bit of straw or bedding). Underlying dental disease can also cause eye problems, with problematic tooth roots pressing on nearby tear ducts. So, it is always best to get your pet checked out by your vet.

4. Pyometra

Pyometra, or infection of the womb, is a serious condition that affects female hamsters. Symptoms may include changes in appetite and thirst, lethargy, a bloody vaginal discharge or a swollen abdomen. A bacterial infection causes the uterus to fill with pus, making your hamster feel very sick. Surgical removal of the diseased uterus is advised, as this condition can be fatal if left untreated.

5. Mites

Mites such as Demodex spp. can cause hair loss and dry, scaly skin in hamsters. This may not be itchy but can be unsightly. Topical anti-mite treatments are usually helpful. However, bear in mind that hamsters can lose fur for other reasons too such as skin allergies, fungal infections and certain types of cancer.

6. Cheek pouch issues

Hamsters have cheek pouches, which are used to temporarily store food, to carry it back to their nest. Eversion of a cheek pouch can occur, whereby the pouch turns inside out and prolapses. This can be seen as a fleshy mass hanging out of one side of your hamster’s mouth. Hamsters can also run into problems with cheek pouch impaction, where the contents become stuck in the cheek pouch. This is more likely to occur if your hamster puts something sticky in his pouch, and the subsequently trapped food can become rotten. Both conditions need immediate veterinary attention.

7. Diabetes Mellitus

Diabetes mellitus (sugar diabetes), is a condition where the pancreas either doesn’t produce enough insulin or the body no longer responds to insulin, leading to high levels of circulating sugar in the bloodstream. Symptoms of this include increased thirst, increased appetite, weight loss, increased urination and lethargy. Your vet can diagnose the condition with urine in blood samples. However, it can be quite tricky to manage medically in hamsters, and usually, changes in diet are made to reduce sugar intake.

8. Cancer

As with all species, cancer is something that can affect hamsters. Benign tumours near the kidneys can cause Cushing’s disease (a hormonal condition) which may lead to hair loss and changes in thirst. Lymphoma is common in older hamsters, with one type affecting the skin in particular. If your hamster develops any lumps or skin changes then get your vet to check them over.

Signs of a distressed hamster

Hamsters are prey animals which means that they are very good at hiding signs that they are sick, compared to other species like cats and dogs. This means you may need to look for subtle symptoms in the initial stages of illness. If your hamster seems a bit quieter than normal, is sneezing excessively, has more laboured breathing, diarrhoea, hair loss or if he is off his food then you should get him checked by a vet. Over time you may also notice problems like weight loss and lethargy developing. Hamsters can also suffer from stress and anxiety, so you may notice him demonstrating his distress by chewing the bars of his cage, pacing excessively or becoming aggressive towards you.

How to prevent hamster illness

Whilst there is no sure-fire way of stopping illness altogether the following measures can help to reduce the risk of your hamster developing disease:

• Regular cleaning of the cage to remove dirty bedding and reduce ammonia levels which can contribute to respiratory and eye issues. Our guide to how to clean a hamster cage walks you through everything you need to know.
• Provide a large enough cage for him, with plenty of interesting toys that are changed or rotated regularly to help counteract boredom and stress.
• Ensuring any chemicals or cleaning products have been thoroughly rinsed after you’ve finished cage cleaning.
• Keeping cages in a well-ventilated area can help reduce the risk of respiratory issues.
• Using dust-free or hypoallergenic beddings can help prevent eye problems as well as underlying skin or respiratory allergies. Check out how to set up a hamster cage for more information on making your hammy's habitat homely.
• Make sure your hamster is on an appropriate diet, which should include a complete hamster pellet, dried hay and fresh fruit and veg as occasional treats.
• Avoid giving your hamster sticky treats (like toffee or other sweets) that could get stuck in his cheek pouches.
• Ensure your hamster always has access to fresh water, cleaning his water bottle regularly.
• Not smoking near your hamster’s environment.
• Make sure you seek veterinary help promptly if your hamster seems unwell

Hamsters are great little animals but can succumb to health complaints like any other pets. It’s important to seek help as soon as you think there might be something wrong, to stop your little furry friend from going downhill. Always ring your vet if you have any worries about your hamster.

You might also want to read: Do hamsters hibernate? and Do hamsters smell?

‘Do hamsters have periods?’ is something you may have found yourself asking if you have a female pocket pet. All creatures have a reproductive cycle, but the symptoms and duration of these cycles can vary greatly from one species to the next. 

While investing in the best hamster cage and furnishing it with cozy bedding and a variety of hamster toys is vital for ensuring your little one stays physically and mentally stimulated, it’s also important for you as a pet parent to understand what goes on inside your hammy’s body so that you can keep an eye on their health. 

Unlike most women, who have a menstrual cycle and period each month, female hamsters don’t have periods. Instead, they have what’s known as an estrous cycle, which all female hamsters will experience once they reach sexual maturity. These cycles are short, regular and accompanied by vaginal discharge. 

But, as with the menstrual cycles that women experience, female hamsters can experience abnormalities within their estrous cycle that you’ll want to be aware of. Below, we talk you through everything you need to know about the estrous cycle, as well as how you can tell if your hamster is in heat and signs she may be pregnant. 

• 7 ways to keep your hamster happy
• Why is my hamster hiding from me? Causes and what to do
• How to bond with your hamster

What is the estrous cycle?

Depending on their breed, all hamsters will reach sexual maturity somewhere between four to six weeks of age. Once that happens, a female hamster will begin to experience her estrous cycle. Unlike the menstrual cycle experienced by women, which operates on a roughly 28-day cycle, a female hamster’s estrous cycle repeats every four days.

The estrous cycle begins during the night, which is when your hamster is most active and lasts for 12 hours. During this time your hammy will secrete discharge from their vagina that’s thick and slightly white in color. This 12-hour window is the signal to male hamsters that the female is in heat and ready to mate.

While the estrous cycle experienced by hamsters and the menstrual cycle experienced by women are markedly different, they do share one similarity – just as women will reach an age when they enter menopause and no longer have a menstrual cycle, a hamster’s estrous cycle will also cease when they become too old to get pregnant.

Will your hamster bleed during the estrous cycle?

No. Unlike the human menstrual cycle, the estrous cycle experienced by female hamsters is characterized by a white discharge as opposed to blood. That being said, while it’s fairly uncommon to see any blood during this time, the odd speck or two here and there isn’t generally something you need to worry about. 

But if you notice more than a speck or two of blood, it’s really important that you consult with your veterinarian. Vaginal bleeding is often a sign of a more serious health issue and early detection is vital in ensuring your hamster gets the treatment they need.

How can I tell if my hamster is in heat?

There are a few signs that you can look out for that will alert you to the fact that your female hamster is in heat:

• Smell – do hamsters smell? During their estrous cycle they might. Female hamsters that are in heat tend to let off quite a musky smell, so if you notice a stronger than usual odor wafting from your hammy’s cage, she could well be in her estrous cycle.
• Discharge – as mentioned above, during the estrous cycle your hammy will most likely produce a thick, white discharge from her vagina that can be quite paste-like in texture. You may also notice that her vagina is more swollen or red than usual - both of which are completely normal.
• Behavior – wondering ‘why is my hamster biting me?’ It could be that she’s in heat. Female hamsters will often become more irritable and nippy during this time and you may also notice that your hammy is more active than she usually is. 

Another great way to tell that your pocket pet is in heat is to stroke near her tail. If she’s in heat, she should freeze and then lift her tail. Stroking near her tail is exactly what a male would do before mating with her, so by freezing and lifting her tail, she’s signaling she’s ready to mate.  

Signs your hamster is pregnant

Unlike women, female hamsters are pregnant for a very short period of time with some breeds, like the Syrian hamster, giving birth a mere 16 days after conception. Other breeds, such as the Roborovski hamster, have a gestation period that’s slightly longer at around 22 to 30 days. 

If you’re wondering whether your hammy might be pregnant, here are the signs to look out for:

• Contact with male hamsters – if your hammy has been around a male in the past three to four weeks, then there’s a good chance that she’s pregnant. The longest gestation period is around 30 days, so if your female hasn’t been with a male in over four weeks, then she won’t be pregnant.
• Enlarged belly – while it is indeed a sign of pregnancy, an enlarged belly can also be a symptom of other medical conditions, so if you’re confident that the abdominal dilation is not down to your hammy being pregnant, it’s important to speak with your vet.
• Enlarged and darkened nipples – if your hammy has a swollen belly and enlarged and darkened nipples, then this is another great sign that there are babies on the way.
• Nesting behavior – hamsters have very strong nesting instincts, so if you notice that your little pocket pet is suddenly gathering up lots of bedding and placing it in one area, this is a sign she’s creating a comfortable place for herself to give birth. 
• An increase in aggression – female hamsters are known to become aggressive during pregnancy, especially towards male hamsters. We recommend that if your hamster shares a cage with another hamster that you separate them during her pregnancy to avoid fighting.
• An increase in appetite – you’ll likely notice your hammy is more hungry than usual if she’s pregnant as she’s trying to get enough nutrients to sustain both herself and her babies during this time. You’ll want to make sure your pocket pet is getting enough fat and protein so that she’s strong enough to deliver her babies – check out our guide to ‘what can hamsters eat?’ for advice on a good diet. 

The best hamster toys are a must when welcoming a furry little friend into your home. Just as a cat or dog needs plenty of physical and mental stimulation so does a hamster. They need plenty of enrichment to thrive in their daily lives.

Knowing how to play with a hamster is very important, as hamsters are quite clever and love spending time with their humans. We wanted to know what to look out for in a toy so we spoke to vet, Dr. Hannah Godfrey and she notes that it’s important to choose toys that allow hamsters to practice natural behaviors, such as digging, foraging, chewing, and hiding.

You also want to make sure that your hamster has plenty of space to play. Investing in one of the best hamster cages will ensure that there is enough space for your hamster to play, eat, and sleep. Consider adding things like an exercise wheel and space for your hamster to climb or burrow so having enough space but again, you’ll want to be sure there is enough space in their cage for this.

Keeping all this in mind, we’ve rounded up our top picks of the best hamster toys we know you and your hamster will love. Let’s check them out!

Best hamster toys 2026

How to choose the best hamster toys

“Hamster toys are a great way to keep your hamster entertained, active, and healthy, while also giving them opportunities to display their natural behaviors – like digging, chewing, foraging, and hiding,” says Dr. Hannah Godfrey.

When it comes to choosing the best hamster toys, keep in mind your hamster’s personality, interests, and needs. Maybe your hamster needs more exercise, so toys like wheels or saucers will be the way to go. Or if your hamster needs more mental stimulation you may want to choose a ball. If you’re looking to improve your hamster’s dental health, then a fun dental chew will be the pick for you.

Dr. Godfrey also says, “Don’t forget, you can create your own fun and effective hamster toys with empty toilet rolls and other household items – just make sure they’re safe to chew and don’t get sharp.” You can check out these DIY hamster toys for inspiration.

What types of hamster toys are there?

If you're wondering how to set up a hamster cage, then you'll want to know about all the different types of toys and additions that can be added to your hamster's home.

Hamster wheel: Possibly the most common type of hamster toy out there, and is the perfect addition to one of the best hamster cages. It's a great way to provide exercise for your little critter but it also emulates their natural behavior in the wild. Hamsters will walk several miles in search of food.

Hamster chew toys: Like most small animals, hamsters love to use their teeth so it's important to nurture their natural instincts. When buying a chew toy for your hamster, the most important consideration is that it's made with non-toxic materials. Wood can be a great choice but ensure it's pesticide and chemical-free.

Hamster balls: A hamster ball is an exercise device that allows your furry friend to roll around the floor. It's often seen as a common toy for a hamster but it's not always regarded as the best choice by pet charities. There are concerns that a hamster ball may actually cause stress to a hamster due to their eyesight being poor.

Climbing toys for hamsters: Hamsters enjoy climbing and are rather curious creatures. Look to provide opportunities for your furry friend to explore. Good option are large tunnels that imitate their natural environment in the wild and you may opt for bendy bridges instead.

Digging opportunities: Hamsters love to dig so look to provide a deep layer of sawdust at the bottom of their cage. Providing potting compost is a great option too and you can always consider a digging tower.

What to read next? How about 32 hamster care tips from a long-time owner.

If your hamster is sleeping in the corner of their cage, you might wonder if this is a cause for concern. While this behavior doesn’t always indicate a problem, it can sometimes signal fear, illness, or environmental issues that need to be addressed.

If it’s a case of their environment, ensure they have one of the best hamster cages which is clean, safe, warm, and positioned away from people, pets, and loud noises. Hamsters might be small, but these little creatures are more sensitive than you might think!

To help you work out why your hamster is sleeping in the corner of their cage, we’ve called in Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, an expert vet with 15 years of experience. Below, she explains four common reasons for this behavior and what you can do to help your furry friend.

Why is my hamster sleeping in corner of their cage? 

There are a range of contributing factors that can cause your hammy to choose the corner of their cage to sleep in. Some are completely benign, while others have the potential to be more of a concern.

1. Fear

If you’ve only just welcomed your little pocket pet into your family, it could be that your hamster is scared of you and this is causing them to want to spend all of their time sleeping in the corner of their cage. Hamsters tend to be highly suspicious creatures and it can take some time for them to trust both you and their new environment.

But for those of you that have had your hamster for a while, it’s likely that other things are driving their fear-based behavior. Loud noises, sudden movements, and changes to their environment are all things that can freak a hammy out and when a hamster is scared, they tend to hide.

Normal hamster behavior will see your pocket pet sleeping a lot during the day but being fairly active at night. If you notice that your hammy seems to be sleeping in the corner of their cage for much of the day and night, it could be that their threat system has been activated and they’re feeling scared.

Dr. MacMillan says: "The corner of the cage could be where your hamster feels safest when they are frightened. The corner offers more security than being out in the open. So, if your hamster prefers hiding in the corners when they are awake, as well as when they are sleeping, then this could be a sign they are feeling anxious."

2. Illness

Hamsters don’t tend to show signs of illness until they are really sick, so if you notice your hammy is sleeping a lot and that they’re huddled into the corner of their cage, this is worth paying attention to. Excessive sleeping and uncharacteristic hiding behaviors are a good sign your pocket pet isn’t feeling well. If you're wondering, 'How long do hamsters live?' we've answered your question in this feature.

You also want to be on the lookout for other signs and symptoms as well, such as:

• Cloudy, sunken, or swollen eyes
• Hair loss
• Weight loss
• Diarrhea
• Constipation
• Sneezing
• Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth
• Heavy breathing
• Tumors
• Off their food
• Exercising less than usual
• Sleeping more

If you notice any of the above or you’re simply concerned about the amount of time your hammy is sleeping or where they’re choosing to do it, we recommend you make an appointment with your vet who will be able to give your pocket pet a good check-up.

Dr. MacMillan says: "If your hamster is sick then they may not have the energy to dig and bury themselves in a substrate, or even to go off to their normal sleeping quarters. These hamsters will curl up in the corner of their cage instead, where they can get maximum security with minimum energy expenditure.

"In rare cases, a disease affecting your hamster’s brain could cause them to press their head into the corner of their enclosure. They would be doing this while awake, not just when sleeping, and may show other symptoms like seizures."

3. Issues with their environment

Hamsters are not ones for putting up with things they don’t like and they’ll tend to distance themselves from anything that displeases them. When it comes to their sleep spot they’re very particular - it has to be cozy, warm, secure and above all else, clean.

Learning how to clean a hamster cage is one of the most beneficial things you can do as a pet parent. Your hammy may be more inclined to sleep in another spot if their cage is regularly freshened up. This means changing soiled bedding daily, cleaning their water and food bowls, and doing a deep clean once a month.

Aside from hygiene reasons, your hammy may also be sleeping in the corner because there are things going on in the surrounding home environment that are unsettling them. Lots of loud noises, from people or other pets, as well as having family members trying to touch or handle them, can cause hamsters to want to burrow into a corner where they feel safe.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Your hamster may not have enough hiding places in their enclosure which is why they are seeking out a corner for security instead. The ideal hamster habitat should have multiple hiding spots and a deep substrate layer to make burrows in."

4. It’s their favorite sleep spot

Why is your hamster sleeping in the corner of their cage? Well, it could be that it’s simply their favorite place to get their beauty sleep. Hamsters love creating a little nest for themselves and what’s most important for them is that it’s warm, cozy, secure and somewhere that they can really burrow into.

If you find food or other items from around their cage tucked away in the corner, this is a good sign that your hammy is choosing to make the corner of their cage their home.

Dr. MacMillan says: "A corner could simply be your hamster's favorite sleeping spot in their enclosure! Perhaps this is just where they feel most comfortable and safe. A hamster that likes sleeping in a corner for these reasons will usually make themselves a comfortable nest and store their food here too."

What to do if your hamster is sleeping in corner of cage

Because hamsters are prey animals that are easy targets in the wild, it’s natural for them to want to sleep in a place where they feel safe and secure. If your hammy is engaging in normal sleeping practices (dozing during the day but being fairly active at night) it’s unlikely that their choice of sleep spot is any cause for concern.

Likewise, if your hamster is continuing to eat well, plays with the best hamster toys you’ve bought them when they are awake, and is engaging in normal hamster behaviors, such as chewing, digging, and burrowing, then it’s safe to say that they’re sleeping in the corner of their cage because that’s the place they’ve chosen to set up camp so to speak.

There’s absolutely nothing you need to do if your hamster is sleeping in the corner of their cage because that’s the place they feel the most comfortable and secure, but it is worth paying attention if you see this being accompanied by any out of the ordinary behaviors, such as:

• Lethargy
• A refusal to eat or drink
• Not chewing
• Uncharacteristic hiding during normal waking hours (that’s night time for your furry friend)
• Any of the signs of illness mentioned earlier in this piece
• Losing weight
• Exercising less

If you’re in any way concerned about the health and wellbeing of your furry friend, we recommend you speak with your vet who will be able to offer advice and guidance.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "If your hamster seems ok, then check their enclosure next. Have you provided enough tunnels, hides, and substrate? You could try offering alternatives or repositioning the current furniture in their cage to see if this encourages them to sleep elsewhere.

"A hamster that generally seems anxious may spend many of their waking hours hiding in corners as well as choosing to sleep there. You will need to look at any factors that could be causing stress. Frequent rough handling, other larger pets in the house, or loud music are all common examples. Take steps to correct these to give your hamster a more peaceful existence.

"If your hamster is bright and doing all the things that they should be doing, then let them continue sleeping in the corner. It might be their favorite snoozing spot, so don’t worry if they choose there in preference to anywhere else. Don’t disturb their carefully crafted nest, unless it is cleaning out time, and never force them to sleep elsewhere as this could create unnecessary stress."

You might also find it helpful to check out our guides on how to help a stressed hamster and ways to keep your hamster happy, both of which are helpful if you’re worried your pocket pet is feeling fearful or anxious.

Looking for great DIY hamster playpen ideas that are both easy to make and affordable? We’ve got you covered! While the best hamster cages make for a great permanent home for your hammy, a playpen is perfect for those times when you’d like to give your pocket pet a little more space to run around in.

From bathtubs and cardboard boxes to storage cubes and plexiglass, the hamster playpen options in this article are all durable and cost very little to put together. Most are super easy to clean and they can all be packed away when not in use to free up precious floor space.

Once you’ve put the playpen together, you’ll want to furnish it with some of the best hamster toys and accessories to ensure your furry friend gets all the physical and mental enrichment they need to stay happy and healthy. We recommend a mix of tunnels, bridges and chew toys to give your little one plenty of variety. 

When it comes to finding new ways to keep your hamster happy, a playpen full of stimulating items where they can indulge their love of burrowing, digging, climbing and chewing is pretty darn hard to beat! So, without further ado, here are our favorite DIY hamster playpen ideas…

• How to play with a hamster: Are you engaging properly?
• How to help a stressed hamster: Vet's guide to symptoms and causes
• How to bond with your hamster

1. Bathtub playpen

Talk about a genius idea! If you have a bathtub in your home then why not put it to good use during the day and turn it into a playpen for your hammy? Once you’ve dried off your tub and plugged the drain, simply line it with a towel and grab a handful of fun toys to pop inside. Place your hamster in the lined bath and watch them having a ball enjoying their new surroundings. Not only will your pocket pet love their bathtub playpen but the best part is it will cost you nothing to make it!

2. Cardboard box playpen

We love the simplicity of this hamster playpen which requires little more than a cardboard box and some sand. You’ll want to have a box cutter, a sharpie and a ruler on hand too, just to make life easier. The end result is a very basic playpen, but you can make it more homely by kitting it out with toys and accessories.

3. Easy $3 DIY hamster playpen

Cheap and cheerful, this basic playpen will cost you very little to make but when furnished with the right playthings, it will provide your hammy with hours of stimulation and enrichment. Purchase two display boards if you’re wanting to make a small playpen or opt for three if you’re wanting to create something a little more spacious. 

4. Nylon hamster pop up playpen

We’re crushing hard on this brightly colored, polka dot, pop up hamster playpen. This playpen is great for those of us who aren’t quite so crafty as it doesn’t require any building or assembly – simply unwrap the playpen and it will pop up and be instantly ready for use. You can then focus on the fun stuff, which is decking it out with all of your hammy’s favorite toys and accessories. It’s also a breeze to keep clean, so if you’re looking for a low maintenance playpen, this one is definitely worth considering.

5. Glass and duct tape hamster playpen

If you’re looking for a playpen that’s a little bit different, this unique and creative design that uses glass from old photo frames is well worth considering. The edges of the glass are covered in duct tape to prevent your hammy from coming into contact with any sharp edges, and if you’re worried about the possibility of the glass breaking, you can put some clear plastic tape over it. Because this playpen has an accordion fold, it’s really flexible so you could attach it to your hammy’s cage to create an indoor/outdoor living space. 

6. Storage cube playpen

Another fantastic idea is this playpen made from storage cubes. Super affordable and always in ample supply, this design offers maximum convenience and flexibility for very little financial output. There are loads of different configurations on offer with storage cubes, so have a play around and see which layout works best for your home and hammy. 

7. Folding carpet saver hamster playpen

Made from thick sheets of plexiglass, tape and velcro, this foldable playpen is easy to clean and store away when not in use. The transparent walls also make it feel less confined than a playpen made from a cardboard box and allows your hamster to see out and you to see in. While it takes a bit of time to make this playpen correctly so that it’s able to fold up the way you want it to, the results are well worth it. 

DIY hamster toys are a great alternative for those times when you’re looking for new ways to keep your hammy entertained, but can’t quite justify shelling out your hard-earned cash on the best hamster toys lining the shelves at your local pet shop. 

While these bright and shiny new playthings are certainly both fun and convenient, if you’re someone who likes getting creative and wants to save some money in the process, making your own hamster toys can be a great alternative. 

Alongside investing in a spacious hamster cage,, providing your pocket pet with plenty of nutritious food and lots of toys are some of the best ways to keep your hamster happy and ensure they get all the physical and mental stimulation they need to thrive. 

DIY hamster toys are easy and inexpensive to make, utilizing many common items that you likely already have lying around at home. If you’ve been trying to figure out how to bond with your hamster, whipping up a few special toys and watching them delight in using them is a great way to do this. 

Below, we reveal some of our favorite DIY hamster toys, all of which come with super simple instructions and will cost you a lot less to make than picking playthings straight from the pet shop shelves. Let’s take a look…

• How to play with a hamster: Are you engaging properly?
• Hamster biting cage? Here’s what to do
• 5 cool DIY hamster habitats your little pocket pet will love

1. DIY hamster toys and boredom breakers

This video features several fantastic and easy to make hamster toys that are sure to keep your hammy happily amused for hours. From treat balls and swings to a super cool climbing frame, all you need to make this range of playthings is cardboard tubes, popsicle sticks, a hot glue gun, scissors, and string.

2. Easy cardboard DIYs for hamsters

If you have a ton of cardboard lying around your house that you’re wanting to put to good use, then this is the video for you! With nothing else needed except scissors and non-toxic craft glue, these seven toys really are ideal for anyone on a tight budget. With everything from hide and seek toys to tunnels and bridges, there’s plenty here to keep your pocket pet engrossed for weeks.

3. Boredom breakers

For those of you who might be looking for toys that incorporate food into the mix, these enriching playthings that incorporate delicious treats are sure to be a winner with your little furry friend. Using basic materials like hay and cardboard tubes that then get stuffed with food, these toys are nutritious, delicious and bucket loads of fun!

4. Toilet roll toys for small pets

Wondering what to do with all those empty toilet rolls that you seem to have lying all over the place? Turn them into toys! Playthings don’t come more affordable than these 10 simple yet entertaining ones - we’re particularly fond of the toilet roll hammock that we’re pretty sure will be a big hit with your hammy. 

5. Hamster playground

Is there anything more fun for your pocket pet than having their own private playground to hang out at? We don’t think so! With popsicle sticks, glue and a little bit of patience, you can create the most epic playground ever, featuring a swing, slide and seesaw that will amuse and delight for hours at a time. 

6. Cardboard hamster wheel

If you have a hammy who can’t get enough of their exercise wheel, this cardboard version is cheap, cheerful and easy to make and will keep your little pocket pet entertained for hours at a time. Using basic supplies and with straightforward instructions, you’ll find you have this wheel whipped up in no time.

7. Paper mache igloo house

Okay, so technically it’s a house and not a toy, but every hammy loves a good hideaway so we reckon this still counts as something they’ll get a lot of enjoyment out of. And besides, it was just too darn cute not to include in the list! You’ll need a pringles tube, a small plastic bowl, toilet paper, tape, PVA glue, plastic food wrap, a pair of scissors, a paintbrush plus a little bit of time and patience - but trust us, the results are well worth it!

8. DIY donut tunnel 

This easy to follow tutorial will walk you through how to make an adorable donut tunnel for your pocket pet using basic materials. You’ll also learn how you can adapt the size of the donut tunnel, so depending on what breed of hamster you have, you’ll be able to adjust accordingly.

Finding new ways to keep your hamster happy is likely high on your list of priorities if you're the proud pet parent of this adorable pocket pet. While investing in one of the best hamster cages is certainly a good place to start, there are so many other simple tweaks you can make to ensure your ball of fur retains their zest for life.

Hamsters make for wonderful little companions. They’re affordable, super cute and they’re one of several small pets that are perfect for kids. But don’t let their petite size fool you, while they certainly won’t take up much space, hamsters need more than a cage to keep them happy and healthy.

Curious and incredibly playful, these little critters need a good selection of fun hamster toys to keep them mentally and physically stimulated. Beyond that, there are other ways you can keep your hammy happy, such as providing them with deep and comfortable bedding, delicious food, and plenty of hiding places in their habitat.

You’ll know that your hamster isn’t happy if they start displaying signs of stress, such as excessive digging, cage biting, and aggressive behavior. But fear not, wonderful pet parent, follow our top tips below for ways to keep your hamster happy and you’ll ensure your much-loved furry friend thrives all year round.

• How to bond with your hamster
• Why does my hamster climb the cage? (and how do I stop it?)
• How to find a lost hamster

How to tell if your hamster is happy

Before we look at all the things you can do to ensure your little ball of fur thrives, it’s a good idea to be aware of the signs that your hammy isn’t happy. Here’s a few common indicators to be on the lookout for:

• Hair loss or changes to their fur: If you’ve ever seen a cat over-grooming themselves, it’s almost always down to stress or boredom, and the same is true for our pocket pets. Hamsters may also try to pull their fur out, so if you notice bald spots or thinning fur, take note.
• Aggressive behavior: Hamsters aren’t naturally aggressive creatures, but they will often lash out when they’re feeling unhappy and this could come in the form of trying to bite your fingers when you reach into their cage.
• Cage biting: Frequently chewing on the bars of their cage isn’t normal behavior for hamsters, so if you notice that your hamster is biting their cage on a regular basis, unhappiness could well be to blame.
• Vocalizing: Hamsters are normally super quiet, except for at night when they’re scurrying about. But in terms of actually using their voice and making verbal noises, it’s quite rare for them to vocalize. If you find them being louder than usual, that’s something to pay attention to.
• Obsessive behavior: Is your hammy scurrying about in circles? Are they digging up every square inch of their cage? Are they engaging in repetitive behaviors like scratching and licking? It’s likely your hamster is trying to communicate something to you.

A happy hamster is one who displays all the normal behaviors that you’d expect to see a hamster display, such as grooming, digging, stretching and playing.

If you’ve noticed that your pocket pet is engaging in unusual or abnormal behaviors, check out our vet's guide to how to help a stressed hamster, which talks you through everything you need to know.

Ways to keep your hamster happy

There are so many great ways that you can keep your hamster happy, here are a few of our favorites:

1. A big cage

‘How big should a hamster cage be?' is a common question amongst pet parents who often understandably fall into the trap of thinking that a small creature only needs a small cage. While they are indeed petite in size, your pocket pet loves being able to play, dig and burrow, so a decent sized home is going to be essential.

You need to ensure that there’s enough space in their cage to pop in plenty of enrichment options to keep your hammy stimulated, plus plenty of room for them to run around in. If you’re looking for guidance and inspiration, be sure to check out our guide to how to set up a hamster cage.

2. Deep bedding

A well rested hamster is a happy hamster and when it comes to bedding, the deeper the better as far as your little pocket pet is concerned. These little guys love to burrow and they actually feel the safest and most secure when they have a deep bed that they can really snuggle down into and hide themselves away in.

We recommend that you avoid wood shavings, which aren’t ideal for your hammy’s health and opt for ink-free shredded paper instead. Kitchen towels and tissue are also brilliant as these are quite soft and do a good job of absorbing urine.

3. Plenty of enrichment

As we mentioned earlier, toys are essential when it comes to providing your hammy with the mental and physical stimulation they need to thrive. While you can certainly learn how to play with a hamster, most don’t like a lot of human attention or contact, so providing them with plenty of engaging toys that they can play with solo is always a good way to go.

When it comes to what to select, an exercise wheel is an absolute must. But you’ll find other options, such as tunnels, bridges, chew sticks and hammocks to be equally great choices. Basically, anything that taps into your hamster’s natural love of climbing, digging, chewing and burrowing will go down a treat.

4. Mouth-watering meals

Nothing makes your hammy happier than tucking into some seriously delectable dishes, so providing them with plenty of nutritious, tasty food is an easy win when it comes to putting a smile on their little dial.

When it comes to planning their meals, a mixture of solid staples with some variety thrown in here and there is the secret to keeping mealtimes fun and interesting. Opt for a healthy seed mix as the basis of their diet and then add in small amounts of safe fruits and vegetables.

Hamsters also really love cheese, so a few small pieces of this every week will score you some major brownie points. For more information on creating the best diet for your pocket pet, our vet's guide to ‘what can hamsters eat?' has got you covered.

5. Create a natural habitat

When it comes to helping your hammy to feel at home, one of the easiest ways to do this is to create a habitat that closely mimics the natural environments that they evolved to live in.

Bring in things that your hammy would be exposed to if they were living in the wild, such as rocks, grass, willow, hay, soil and driftwood. Hamsters also love sand, so creating a sand bath that they can roll about in will be much appreciated.

And although you can absolutely buy a cage and then use the tips above to furnish it in a way that delights your pocket pet, if you love getting creative, why not try making one of these cool DIY hamster habitats?

6. Don’t clean their cage too often

We know, that sounds counterintuitive to keeping your hamster happy doesn’t it? While it’s important to know how to clean a hamster cage, a complete cage-clean is actually a super stressful experience for your pocket pet.

That’s because when you do a thorough clean, you’re removing their burrows and likely moving things about, which can freak your little fur friend out and cause them to feel anxious.

Do a spot-clean on a daily basis, such as removing any visible debris and food scraps and cleaning out their little box, but keep deep cleaning confined to once a month to minimize distress.

7. Let your hamster live alone

Although a lot of animals enjoy the company of others of their kind, hamsters are naturally very solitary creatures who prefer to live alone. When housed in pairs or groups, hamsters tend to become very stressed and will often fight one another, which is distressing for both them and you.

If you’re really keen on having more than one hamster, we recommend you house each in their own cage. Hamsters don’t get lonely like some other animals do, so they’ll be perfectly content in their own company. If anything, they’ll be thanking you for giving them the gift of a peaceful and quiet solitary life.

We've also answered How long do hamsters live? and Do hamsters hibernate?

You’re not the only one asking, ‘What can hamsters eat?’ After all, there’s plenty of information about dog and cat food, but where do you go to find out what hamsters can eat? Is the food at the pet store enough, or do they need more? And what about treats? 

Our knowledge of hamster nutrition and husbandry has come on a lot in the last few years, and these adorable creatures are finally getting recognition as great pets for adults and children alike. We’re going to look in detail at what hamsters can eat, as well as some things that should never be fed to your hamster.

• Best hamster toys: Amazing accessories for a happy hamster
• Best hamster cages: Find the perfect home for your hamster

What do hamsters eat?

Many owners are unaware that hamsters are actually omnivorous. This means they can have quite a varied diet that’s both plant and animal-based.

Although they’re often mistaken for herbivores (the wild hamster’s diet does primarily consist of seeds and grasses), they need a lot of protein for their size. For wild hamsters, this protein need is filled by eating insects and small animals such as frogs – and even lizards! 

• How long can a hamster go without food?
• 5 reasons why your hamster is scared of you
• How to play with a hamster: Are you engaging properly?

What is the best food for hamsters?

Several commercial hamster diets exist in pet shops and it can be confusing which one to use.

Vets and nutritionists tend to agree that feeding your hamster a pelleted diet rather than a muesli-style diet is preferable. If you’ve been feeding your hamster a muesli mix, then you may have noticed that they eat the same bits first, every day. You may also have noticed that the same bits generally get left behind day after day, too. 

This causes a problem – although the food is technically balanced throughout the bag, your hamster can pick out their favourite bits and leave the rest resulting in an unbalanced diet. And like children presented with a mixed bowl of sweets and vegetables, they’re unfortunately likely to pick out the high-calorie and less nutritious things. Therefore, hamsters fed on muesli-type foods are more prone to bad teeth, obesity, and diarrhoea. 

This is why the answer to this is to buy pelleted feed for hamsters. It has all the same ingredients as many of the muesli diets, but they have all been blended and formed into equal pellets. 

Your hamster can no longer accidentally unbalance his diet by picking out the bits he likes the taste of, as each pellet is identical to the next. If your hamster is currently on muesli, you should transition them slowly onto their new diet over a fortnight to avoid gut upset. Very gradually mix in some of the new food with their old diet, increasing the proportions of new to old over time.

• Why is my hamster biting me?
• How to set up a hamster cage
• How to find a lost hamster

How much should I feed my hamster?

Hamsters usually only need 8-12 grams of pelleted food a day. Treats should make up no more than 5% of their daily diet, so to avoid your hamster becoming obese you should limit treats to half a gram or less (which is about the same as two raisins). As this is such a small amount you might find it a bit easier to give them a gram every other day instead.

Any time you try a new treat for your hamster, make sure you start by offering him a tiny amount at a time so that his guts are allowed to get used to it. Giving too much of a new food could cause diarrhoea. Getting to the point where you can give your hamster a different treat or fresh food each day will help keep him interested and provide him with a range of nutrients.  

Just remember that you need to be thorough with your cage cleaning when you’re feeding fresh foods. Hamsters will often hoard food, and many fresh foods can go bad quickly, so they will be more likely to make your hamster ill. 

8 foods you can feed your hamster

You’re probably thinking that a pelleted diet seems very boring compared to a muesli one. After all, those squashed peas and corn look so much more interesting and colourful than the pellets. So what can you give your hamster as a treat or snack? 

1. Cruciferous vegetables

Cruciferous vegetables belonging to the brassica family that includes cabbage, cauliflower, kale, Brussel sprouts, and broccoli. They’re high in vitamins, minerals, and fibre, and low in calories. As with all vegetables you can give to hamsters, it’s best to start with a very tiny amount to avoid diarrhoea. 

2. Carrots and sweet potatoes

Carrots and sweet potatoes are okay for hamsters to eat, but you should be aware that they’re quite high in sugar. On the plus side, they’re hard and may help to wear down their teeth and contain lots of fibre. Don’t feed them to your hamster too often, and only give a tiny amount – a cubic centimetre is plenty!

Just make sure to remove the skins from the sweet potato before you feed it, as this is the area most likely to carry mould and bacteria

3. Seeds

Your hamster will love seeds. Pumpkin and sunflower seeds are two particular favourites. You can feed them either with or without the husk, as long as the seeds you offer are not salted and contain no additives. They’re high in good fats, but restrict them to three a day to avoid obesity as they are very high in calories.

4. Mealworms and crickets

Mealworms and crickets are small insects that you can buy dried in pet shops and garden centres for feeding to birds. They are high in protein and make a healthy snack for hamsters, especially youngsters or pregnant hamsters, who have higher protein requirements. You should avoid giving your hamster mealworms if they’re elderly though, as too much protein can put a strain on the kidneys.

5. Peas and lentils

Peas and lentils are high in protein, so make a healthy addition to your hamster’s diet, especially if they’re growing, pregnant, or lactating. They’re also small, which helps with portioning. One or two peas is plenty for a daily portion.

6. Fruits

Most fruits are safe for hamsters, but they particularly enjoy strawberries, blueberries, bananas, and apples. These are all high in vitamins, especially vitamin C. However, fruits are also high in sugar, which can cause diabetes and obesity, so they shouldn’t be given daily. As usual, give a tiny amount – a cubic centimetre (or one blueberry) is plenty, and make sure you remove the seeds of apples before giving them to your hamster due to the levels of cyanide they contain.

7. Nuts

You can feed your hamster most types of nuts, but almonds should be avoided due to their cyanide content. However, whilst nuts contain vitamins and minerals, they also contain lots of fat, and can quickly cause obesity and diarrhoea. A small number of chopped nut can be fed to your hamster, but don’t do this every day.

8. Chicken and eggs

As omnivores, hamsters can be fed small amounts of cooked chicken and hard-boiled eggs. Both are high in protein and contain amino acids not found in vegetables. However, you should take into account that both of these foods will rot very quickly at room temperature, and your hamster might have a secret food store. If you choose to feed chicken, check your hamster’s food stash later that day, and remove any uneaten bits of chicken or egg.

What can hamsters chew on? 

Hamsters have teeth that are continually growing throughout their lives. They need to keep them worn to an appropriate length by chewing. Hard food will help, but they will also benefit from other items in their cage to gnaw on.

Anything you give your hamster must be safe and non-toxic because they may accidentally swallow some of what they chew. Cardboard tubes from toilet rolls, wood (either a small branch from a fruit tree, that hasn’t been treated with pesticide, like apple or pear, or pieces of untreated wood from the pet shop), fibre-rich veggies and chew toys are all good options.

You can even give them dog chews, as long as they don't contain garlic. But remember that if you're offering food or treats as a chew, you'll need to reduce their calorie intake from their main food, or else face an increasingly heavyweight hammy!

Rotating chews and toys every so often will give your hamster some essential mental stimulation and may help prevent other unwanted behaviours, such as chewing on the bars of their cage.

What not to feed your hamster

It’s important to mention that there are a few foods you should never feed your hamster. 

Rhubarb is thought to be poisonous to rodents like hamsters, as it contains a toxin that can raise their heart rate. Eggplant (aubergine) is also on the toxic list for hamsters. 

As well as being too sugary and processed, chocolate should be avoided due to its theobromine content. Just like in larger pets, onions and garlic can cause anaemia, and should not be fed to hamsters.

Don’t feed your hamster almonds; they contain cyanide. Raw beans should also be avoided, as they can contain toxins. Citrus fruits are too acidic for hamsters, and eating them may result in diarrhoea. It’s unclear whether tomatoes are toxic to hamsters, so they’re best avoided. 

Whilst not directly poisonous, you should also avoid processed foods and junk foods, which are often of low nutritional value. Yoghurt drops, once a very popular pet shop treat for small mammals, should be avoided, as they’re very fattening and don’t contain useful nutrients. Similarly, human junk food should not be shared with your pet. This includes fried foods, cookies, cereal bars, crisps and processed meats.

Avoid anything too sharp (such as whole oats and straw), which can puncture your hamster’s cheek pouches. You should also avoid sticky foods, as these can get stuck to the inside of their cheek pouches. So, giving your hamster a sticky toffee is not recommended - it could result in a trip to the vets!

What can I feed my hamster if I run out of food? 

As with many small mammals, gut upset from sudden diet changes can quickly cause diarrhoea. And hamsters, being so small, can go downhill quickly if this happens. If you run out of hamster food, you’ll need to determine how long it’ll be until you can get more.

 If it’s just overnight, your hamster can have his usual vegetable treats and skip his pellets for one night – it’s likely to do him more harm to give him something new. Don’t forget that, unless you’ve just cleaned out the cage, your hamster likely has a hidden food store to raid if he’s ever hungry!

If you’re unlucky enough to run out of hamster food on a bank holiday weekend, you might need to come up with an alternative. The best emergency hamster food option is to give a mix of the safe foods listed above, trying to ensure that your pet has a protein source, a fat source, and a fibre source.

A small piece of sweet potato or carrot, 3-5 seeds or half a teaspoon of chopped nuts, and a tablespoon of mealworms or half a teaspoon of hard-boiled egg will provide most of what your hamster needs for a couple of days. It shouldn’t be used for longer than this though, as it’s not complete and balanced and will be lacking in vitamins and minerals.

What can hamsters drink? 

Whilst it might seem a bit boring, water is the safest and healthiest option for hamsters. Although you might experiment with their diet and treats, don’t be tempted to do the same with their drinks. 

Water contains everything your hamster needs, alongside their usual good quality hamster diet. Aside from water being so good for them, hamsters have sensitive tummies, so any change to their usual fluids could cause them to become unwell.

 This means that even though offering them milk to drink might be okay in theory, it’s quite likely to cause them diarrhoea, which could lead to more serious symptoms. It’s also really tricky to offer milk without it spoiling due to the temperature in the cage. 

Once the milk has 'gone off,' it poses a serious health risk to your pet. So, sticking to fresh water is the sensible option. Water should be offered in a bottle or bowl, replenished when empty, and replaced daily so that it is always fresh. 

Conclusion

Hamsters can eat a variety of fruit and vegetables, but their main diet should be a complete pelleted ‘kibble’ for optimum nutrition. Just make sure you’re giving no more than half a gram of extra fruit, seeds, insects, or vegetables to avoid overfeeding as hamsters are very prone to obesity.

If your hamster is scared of you, it’s normal to feel disheartened - after all, you’ve likely put a lot of love and care into providing them with a wonderful home and having them act nervous or fearful around you would make any pet parent feel sad.

Even if you’ve invested in one of the best hamster cages and kitted it out with lots of wonderful accessories to make their habitat truly feel like a home, it’s worth keeping in mind that our little pocket pets tend to be scared of everything - you’d probably feel the same if you were in their tiny shoes and all your surroundings were supersized!

While building your hammy a wonderful home and furnishing it with plenty of the best hamster toys can go a long way to helping them settle into their environment and feel comfortable, sometimes your furry friend may still feel scared of you no matter how much love and attention you shower them with.

Thankfully, there’s good news. While there may be a number of reasons why your hamster is scared of you, there’s also plenty you can do to gain their trust and start to establish a connection. Below, we talk you through the most common of these reasons and give you some helpful tips and tricks to help the two of you develop an enduring bond.

• Why is my hamster hiding from me?
• How to bond with your hamster
• How to play with a hamster

How to tell if your hamster is scared of you

When you’re trying to figure out if your hammy is scared of you or whether there’s something else going on, observing their behavior and body language can help you to get clarity. Here are some common signs to look out for that indicate your hamster is feeling scared:

1. Hiding: If you notice your new pocket pet is hiding themselves away or your existing hammy has suddenly started exhibiting distancing behaviors at points of the day they wouldn’t normally do this (such as feeding time), it could be that something may be causing them to feel frightened. You might also question, do hamsters hibernate?

2. Biting: The question ‘why is my hamster biting me?’ is a common one amongst pet parents and there’s a fairly straightforward answer. Most small animals will attack when they feel threatened and biting is often their way of communicating that they want you to back off. A hammy, in particular, has continuously growing teeth and they’ll often use these as a way of defending themselves.

3. Acting skittish: A hamster who runs away when you come near their cage or try to touch them, is likely feeling scared and escaping is their way of protecting themselves.

Hiding, biting and acting skittish are three of the most common signs that your hamster is feeling scared. Once you’ve spotted any or all of the above, the next step is to figure out the reason that’s driving the behavior so that you can help make your hammy feel more comfortable.

Reasons why your hamster is scared of you

There tends to be five common reasons that can trigger fear in the heart of a hamster and understanding these can help you learn what you need to do in order to gain your hamster’s trust. Let’s take a look at each one:

1. They’re in a new environment

If you’ve just welcomed your furry friend into your family or you’ve recently moved yourself and your hammy into a new home, the change in environment can set off a stress response in your pocket pet that can leave them feeling nervous and scared.

When your hamster is in a new place, everything around them is different. They’re seeing, hearing and smelling new things and if you’ve just adopted your hammy, this could also be the first time they’re in a cage on their own without their littermates and parents.

The best thing you can do if your hammy is in a new environment is to give them time and space to adjust. Be patient as settling in is a process with some hamsters taking to their new surroundings immediately and others requiring days and even weeks to get comfortable.

For the first few days that your hamster is in a new environment, keep their cage covered with a light cloth and don’t try to touch them. Give them plenty of breathing room and let them get used to their new home at their own pace. Covering their cage will allow them to explore that environment without also having to deal with all that’s going on in the outside world.

2. You’re big and they’re small

Imagine that you’re Jack and you’ve just climbed the beanstalk to be met by a giant towering over you - life is a little bit like that for your hamster, with everything in their world feeling incredibly big which in turn, makes them feel incredibly small. And when we feel small, we also feel vulnerable.

It’s important to try and put yourself in your hammy’s tiny shoes and think about how you’d feel if this very loving but very large person started leaning over you cooing and trying to pet you - you’d probably freak out too, right?! The key to helping to make your pocket pet feel less afraid is to start slowly and exercise plenty of patience.

3. They’re feeling stressed

Just like us humans, stress can definitely send your hamster into a fear spiral that causes them to shut down. So, what constitutes a stress-triggering situation for your pocket pet, well, any of the following are likely culprits:

• A change in their immediate environment, such as a new cage or water bottle or being moved into a new room
• Having another pet in the house
• Suddenly having small children around
• Their daily routine being changed
• Being in a loud environment
• Moving the accessories in their cage around
• A cage that is too small

While some of these may sound minor, to your hamster, anything that upsets their routine or what they’re used to can be a major source of stress and anxiety. For more information on the signs of stress and what you can do, check out our guide on how to help a stressed hamster.

4. You’ve woken them up

If you’re anything like us, being woken from a deep sleep can leave you feeling like somewhat of a grumpy bear and for our hamsters, it’s no different, except that being woken can also trigger feelings of fear and disorientation that can cause them to bite.

5. Your hammy doesn't trust you yet

It’s going to take time for you and your pocket pet to build a relationship that has a solid foundation of trust and it’s perfectly normal that your hammy may take days or weeks before they feel fully comfortable with you. The good news is, there’s plenty you can do to help teach your hammy that you’re trustworthy.

How to gain your hamster’s trust

We recommend a slow and steady approach when it comes to gaining your hamster’s trust and patience and consistency are going to be key. The more you repeatedly behave in ways that meet your hammy’s needs, the more they’ll come to view you as safe, reliable, and trustworthy. Here are a few of our top tips to help make this process as smooth as possible:

1. Make sure they have a decent sized cage

We know, you’re probably wondering what on earth the size of your hammy’s cage has to do with gaining their trust, but it can actually make all the difference. When a hamster has plenty of room to roam about in, it makes them feel happy and when they’re happy, they’re prone to being friendlier and more trusting.

2. Give them time to adjust to their new surroundings

It’s really important that if you have a new hamster or you’ve recently relocated your hammy into a new home, that you give them time to get used to their new environment. While some hamsters will have no problem settling in right away, some take days or weeks to get comfortable after a move.

3. Establish a routine - and stick to it

Hamsters are a bit like children in that they do best when they have a consistent routine and know what to expect. Replenish their food and water and clean their cage at the same time each day as this eliminates the dreaded element of surprise, which our pocket pets don’t like.

4. Approach them slowly and build up contact over time

Our little furry friends don’t have the best eyesight, so the first thing you want to do is to avoid approaching them too quickly. It’s also a good idea to start slowly when it comes to contact, so if you’re really wanting to spend time with your hammy, pull up a chair beside their cage and just observe them.

After a few days, try placing a treat in your hands and lying your hand flat in their cage to see if you can entice them over. Just make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and after! Your hamster might hop straight into your palm and eat the treat or she may sniff around a bit and then back off. Try moving the treat to the end of one of your fingers and see if that makes her feel more comfortable.

5. Never force your hamster to interact

The quickest way to break trust with your hammy is to try and force contact as this will definitely scare them off. Don’t grab your hamster or try to hold them in place so you can pet them. Instead, let your hammy come to you and respect that they will need to move at their own pace around this. Some hamsters sadly never feel comfortable getting too close, while with time, others will soon feel safe to let you hold them.

6. Don’t punish your hamster

Unlike our feline friends and canine companions who know when they’ve been a good or bad boy, our pocket pets have no understanding of these words or of punishment, so trying to use negative reinforcement to teach your hammy that behaviors like biting aren’t ok won’t work.

Instead, reinforce good behavior with treats and if your hammy engages in unwelcome behaviors, accept that they’re doing this out of fear and stress and leave them be. You can always try again tomorrow!

7. Provide them with plenty of enrichment

Learning how to set up a hamster cage will give you a head start on turning your hammy’s habitat into a true home. Hamsters love all kinds of enrichment activities, from running on their wheel to playing with toys, so try to provide them with lots of things that will stimulate them both physically and mentally.

You might also want to read: Why is my hamster sleeping in the corner of their cage?

Do hamsters smell? Like all animals, the answer is yes. While it’s impossible to stop your hamster from smelling altogether, there are a few ways to reduce unpleasant odors, like regularly cleaning their cage and removing any rotten food from their environment (which is important to do anyway).

This might come as a surprise, but hamsters are actually very clean creatures and will wash themselves throughout the day. In the wild, they try to keep their scent to a minimum to avoid being hunted down by predators who might sniff them out.

If you’ve provided your furry friend with one of the best hamster cages and kept it clean, there may be other reasons they smell: they could be unwell, in heat, sexually excited, or marking their territory. To get to the bottom of this problem, we’ve asked vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan for her expert advice below.

How do you get rid of hamster smell?

1. Regularly clean out their cage

If your hamster's cage and bedding have a build-up of urine, this can lead to a problematic pong. Hamsters will choose to urinate as far from their sleeping area as possible, both because they have sensitive noses, and to stop predators finding their hideout.

Regular cage cleaning will reduce this odor, so provided you are willing to put the effort in, you can keep the smells emanating from your furry pal's cage to a minimum.

When it comes to cage cleaning, you need to balance this so as not to disturb your hamster too much. Hamsters can get scared when removed from their cage too often, so it is worth creating another fun place for them to be while you clean their home.

A thorough complete bedding change and deep clean using hamster-friendly disinfectant once a week is about the right balance between making hammy and your nose equally comfortable. You can see more on this in our guide on how to clean your hamster's cage.

Dr. MacMillan says: "To keep your hamster's cage smelling sweet you should spot clean it daily. Many hamsters will toilet in one or two specific areas of their enclosure, so you should be able to scoop out soiled bedding easily."

You can make this easier for yourself by putting a small tray or litter box where they are already peeing. This can then be lifted out and cleaned very easily when they are sleeping in their hideout.

2. Check for signs of illness

Compared to their urine, excrement is less of an issue. It is usually dry and doesn't smell. If their poo is smelly and wet, this can be a sign that your hamster is unwell and a trip to the vet is in order. It can be a sign of 'wet tail', a common hamster illness.

3. Clean out any hidden food

Another cause of a smelly cage can be hidden food, according to Dr. MacMillan. Dry food won't smell unless it has got wet, but fresh food like broccoli and cabbage will rot producing unpleasant sulfurous odors.

Do male or female hamsters smell worse? 

Both male and female hamsters smell, but for different reasons, so the question of which smells worse is a hotly debated topic. Female hamsters come into heat every four days or so and during this time they release a musky scent which some pet owners find reminiscent of burning rubber.

The amount of smell released depends on the species, with female Syrian hamsters particularly noted for their stronger acrid smell compared to dwarf hamsters.

Males will lick their scent glands when sexually excited to release more of their scent so females can find them. This again makes their scent a lot stronger than usual. They can also be more aggressive at marking their territory at certain times of the year, leading to stronger-smelling bedding. In this case, male dwarf hamsters are reported to smell stronger than male Syrians.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "You may find that male hamsters may have a muskier scent than females, but many people can’t tell the difference."

Should I give my hamster a bath? 

It is not a good idea to give your hamster a bath in the traditional sense, or even get them wet. Water – especially soapy water – will strip them of the natural oils they have in their fur which are essential for keeping them warm. When wet they can get cold very quickly, and this can make them susceptible to illness. As such it is better to avoid water altogether. It will also cause them stress and you're likely to get nipped.

You can use a gently moistened tissue to remove ingrained dirt but only use it on the affected area and keep them somewhere warm for a few hours after. The only time that a hamster needs bathing is if they come into contact with something toxic or extremely sticky, according to Dr. MacMillan.

You can also provide them with a sand bath for them to roll around in to clean themselves more thoroughly. This will allow them to get clean in a way that they would in the wild. Ensure you are buying hamster sand not hamster dust though, as the smaller dust particles can cause respiratory disorders in your furry friend.

Do hamsters smell more when they are frightened? 

Anxious hamsters do tend to urinate more than relaxed ones, and this will cause them to smell more, says Dr. MacMillan. It may also cause them to spend more time marking their territory, which can increase odors.

Remember to interact with your hamster only gently so they don't feel they are being threatened. Also, be aware that strong perfumes or aftershaves will discomfort hamsters as they have a much more sensitive nose than you or I.

If you've got a stressed hamster on your hands, this vet's guide can help you.

Should I keep my hamster in my bedroom? 

Provided you keep up a regular cage cleaning regimen you can keep a hamster in your bedroom. Try to avoid strong sunlight or drafts, which may cause your hamster's cage to smell more. However, remember hamsters are sensitive to noise and activity.

If your room is a busy place, you may distress your hamster making them more likely to urinate more. They can also detect ultrasound in a way we can't and many devices like televisions and other electrical devices produce these. Provided your room has a quiet corner away from these devices and other noise sources, there should be no issue with keeping hammy in the same room as you.

Do hamsters smell when they die? 

Hamsters will start to smell after they die, but not straight away. The length of time this can take depends on the temperature of the room. In most houses, it will take three days before the smell becomes really bad.

Because of this, as sad as it may be, it is better to bury your dead hamster as soon as you discover them. It's important to wear latex gloves while doing this and dispose of all of their bedding and food, and disinfect their cage to ensure that you aren't exposed to any potentially harmful bacteria.

If your hamster is biting their cage, check out our vet’s helpful guide.

If your hamster's hiding in its cage and you want to know whether you need to worry or not, this guide will tell you everything you need to know.

These curious little critters are natural burrowers and enjoy exploring small spaces. As prey animals, hiding in the corner of their cage, under their bedding, inside tubes and tunnels or even hiding their food is an instinctive behavior adapted to protect themselves and keep them safe.

While you generally do not have to be concerned if your hamster hides during the day time, hiding can be a sign of a problem. If their habits change and they are hiding excessively they could be telling you something is wrong.

Make sure they are in a happy environment and have enough space. A large, good quality hamster cage is essential, as is providing plenty of ways to keep your hammy stimulated including ensuring there's plenty of sawdust for digging, and nesting for sleeping, as well as plenty of hamster chew toys.

Follow the advice below and if their behavior doesn’t change, consult with your local vet.

• 5 reasons why your hamster is scared of you
• How big should a hamster cage be?
• How to bond with your hamster
• Why is my hamster biting me?

Do hamsters like to hide?  

Hiding is a natural behavior for hamsters. They are typically shy creatures that instinctively like to burrow or conceal themselves out of sight. These curious mammals enjoy exploring the nooks and crannies of their cage, curling up in small spaces and hiding under objects.

This behavior has been evolved to help protect themselves and hide from prey, but it also makes them feel safe and gives them time and space to rest.

Why is my hamster hiding from me?  

There are lots of reasons why your hamster may be hiding. While it may simply be exploring its natural burrowing behavior, discovering new spaces or hiding its food - a natural instinct to ensure it has enough to eat - it could be a number of reasons:

They're asleep 

Hamsters are nocturnal animals which means they sleep during the day and are active at night. If your hamster is hiding during the day it could just be curled up to sleep or rest somewhere. If you're wondering, 'Do hamsters hibernate?', check out our feature that reveals the answer.

Stress 

Your furry friend is a shy animal and may get stressed if its environment changes or it is disturbed. Watch to see if they hide when you or someone else enters the room. If you have recently moved home, changed its cage or introduced a new hamster or if your hamster is new to the family, it may take time to adapt and will hide away until it adjusts.

If you have children or other pets, you may want to keep your hamster in a different room. They may be hiding if there’s too much noise or the lights are being switched on and off constantly.

Aggression between hamsters 

If you have more than one hamster make sure the pair get along. If one hamster is showing aggression towards the other, this could be another reason for hiding. In this case, you may want to separate them so that neither is stressed.

Breed 

Just like us, different hamster breeds and individual hamsters have different personalities. If your hamster always hides this may be down to their breed or a personality trait. Some breeds such as the Dwarf and Chinese hamsters can be quite sociable, whereas the Syrian hamster is often aggressive if not kept alone.

Temperature 

Hamsters like the warmth. If your pet is hiding and you’re not sure why try turning up your heating or invest in a heat lamp if you think they may want to be a bit more cozy.

Health issue

If none of the above reasons apply and your hamster’s behavior has changed, hiding could be a health issue. If they are lacking energy both day and night, take them to a vet to see if they are ill.

Where can hamsters hide?  

Hamsters don’t only hide in their cage where you’ll find them curled up under their bedding, in the corner or inside or under their play structures. If they manage to escape the cage, you’ll want to know where to look to find them. Think small spaces.

Hamsters particularly like hiding inside or under furniture. Look under the bed or couch, inside closets or even inside cushion and pillow cases. Try searching shoe boxes, behind your entertainment system or somewhere warm like beneath a heater. They could even be hiding in the bathroom attracted by nice-smelling scents or the basement.

If you need to know how to find a lost hamster try these hiding places. You can also lure your pet in with their favorite snacks at the cage door.

Why is my hamster hiding in a corner? 

Your hamster may hide in a corner to sleep, burrow or if it is stressed, but have you asked yourself why it chooses to hide in the corner of its cage. The answer is simple really. Corners provide more safety and as prey animals they instinctively look to protect themselves.

In a corner their back is up against the wall and there is nothing behind them that can pose a risk. If you recently got your hamster and they’re unsure of their surroundings, they will feel more comfortable in a corner. If they’re scared or stressed, they’ll feel more safe here.

How do you tell if a hamster is stressed?  

There are a number of signs you can look out for that may indicate that your hamster is stressed.

Hamsters aren’t usually aggressive so if they start to show aggressive or repetitive behavior such as pacing or moving its bedding back and forth, they could be stressed. If their habits change, for example, if they are not eating or drinking as normal, if they’re climbing or biting their cage excessively trying to escape or hiding and sleeping more than usual, these could also be warning signs.

Stressed hamsters may freeze up, their teeth may chatter and they may not want to be held. If your pet is exhibiting any of these behaviors it’s time to visit the vet.

How to stop your hamster from hiding all the time 

There are lots of ways you can get your hamster to come out of hiding:

Let them sleep

Your hamster will often hide if it wants to sleep. A tired hamster isn’t a happy hamster. Make sure they are able to sleep without interruption in a quiet room where lights aren’t being switched on and off all the time. Then when they’re awake they’ll be more sociable.

Keep them active 

Just like any other pet hamsters need physical and mental stimulation so they don’t get bored and become destructive or stressed. It’s important to make sure your hamster has space to run and play, as well as structures to keep them stimulated such as a climbing tube, hamster wheel or activity ball. If they are kept busy and happy they won’t feel stressed so shouldn’t hide as much.

Give them space 

As well as playtime, they need to be kept in a stress-free environment. This means buying a large, recommended cage to ensure they have enough space depending on the breed and appropriate bedding.

Undisturbed environment 

Hamsters don’t only need a large cage and toys to play with, but depending on your pet’s personality it may need a quiet, warm room and another hamster for company. Check your pet’s environment to make sure they are happy.

Time to adjust 

If you’ve recently adopted your hamster, don’t be surprised if they’re shy and don’t want to be held. Make sure you give them time to settle in and adapt to this change and give them space. Soon they will come out of hiding.

Entice them with food 

If all else fails you can try the “bucket method”. Place treats such as sunflower seeds, fruit and raisins in a small bucket and stack books up next to it so that your hamster can climb up and forage for its food.

Understanding how to play with a hamster will allow both you and your little furbaby to have lots of fun without any fear. With careful handling, you can ensure your hamster will feel confident and safe around you while also making it far less likely that you're going to get bitten – a common way of knowing that a hamster is scared and isn't being played with properly.

Hamsters are not like cats and dogs but you can still form a bond with them. It's just going to take more time and work to establish a level of trust, but that's no surprise given you're a giant in comparison and naturally frightening. Before you even begin to play, then, you'll need to make a hamster comfortable. Start by investing in one of the best hamster cages and place it away from light and noise. Invest in a wheel, bedding, places to hide and a comfortable spot to sleep.

The idea is that you get your hamster used to your home environment and any humans that live there. So engage with your cuddly fur ball through the cage, talking and feeding, being careful not to push your fingers too close at first. Get the hamster used to your scent and, when you feel the time is right, approach with more confidence. Let your pet come to you and curiously sniff you out. Place food in the palm of your hand and open the cage door. If your hamster climbs aboard and eats, then playtime is close.

• 5 reasons why your hamster is scared of you
• How to help a stressed hamster
• Why is my hamster biting me?

Do hamsters like to be held? 

Hamsters are generally averse to being picked up and held but that is not to say that you shouldn't do it. Once hamsters are used to the smells, sights and sounds of you and your home, they are going to become far less stressed and they will stop seeing handling as a threat. The important thing is to not force playtime. Do that and a hamster is more likely to become hostile.

Timing is everything. Hamsters are often called nocturnal creatures but they are actually crepuscular. They rest and sleep during the day and they are active at twilight, which means at dawn and dusk. Now, you may not be as awake as your pet at these times, but if you coincide playtime with those periods – certainly at first – then your hamster will be most receptive.

One thing you shouldn't do is wake a hamster in order to play. This will prove stressful and it could cause your hamster to bite or squeal which is a sign that you should leave them alone. Wait until your hamster is moving around and perhaps playing with the best hamster toys in their cage before you decide to interact. And steer clear of ever picking them up from their bed. It's their safe space and they need to know they can kip without being afraid of ever being disturbed.

How to hold a hamster

Before you even consider holding a hamster, ensure the room containing the cage is totally secure so that your pet can't escape. Next, wash your hands with an unscented soap and dry them – especially if you have touched another pet in the house. Hamsters have an acute sense of smell and they will primarily recognise you from your scent. You must reassure your hamster that it is indeed you who is looking to engage.

At that point you can slowly reach into the cage to pick up your pet. Make sure your hamster can see you doing this – you're not looking to sneak up on them from behind! Once a hamster is in your palm, you should place another hand under its bottom and scoop it up gently while trying to keep your hands as low as possible. 

This will help to protect your hamster should it decide to leap away, ensuring it doesn't end up crashing to the floor and injuring itself. In any case, as you lift keep your pet facing towards you and, again, move slowly. But what if this isn't working? 

Well, you could continue trying to establish trust but you can also try opening the cage door and allowing the hamster to leave on its own accord (never leave the room at that point or take your eyes off your hamster). By placing some food in your palm, you can then encourage your hammy towards you.

While you're doing all of this, there should be no other pets such as dogs and cats anywhere around you. Once you've built up a rapport, you can then introduce your hamster to toys outside of the cage, always keeping a watchful eye just in case they escape. If you do lose sight of your pet, you'll need to know how to find a lost hamster but it's vital that you act fast. Hamsters can squeeze through the tightest of spots.

How do you get your hamster to like you?

If all of this seems like hard work, it is, but the results are worth it. The next stage will be to learn how to bond with your hamster so that playtime will become more fun. 

Let your hammy take the lead, allowing it to run around (again, in a secure area). Then, when you want to entice your hammy over, place some food on your palm and they should soon venture towards you (if you've ever wondered “what can hamsters eat?”, it's worth reading our guide).

When you do have your hamster's attention, gently stroke its back, watching carefully and stopping if there are signs of distress. You may also want to consider setting up a playpen for safety or producing a fun obstacle course. Keep your hamsters mind ticking over by tapping into their natural instincts.

And remember, a hamster will also be in a far better mood in general if their home is spacious so ask yourself how big should a hamster cage be? and make sure they have sufficient space to run and play at night. Larger cages will also make your attempts to reach inside appear less threatening which will set up a playtime session perfectly. You'll be best buddies before you know it.

Found this helpful? You might also want to read: How long do hamsters live?

If you’ve got a wire cage for your hamster you may have noticed that they love to climb those bars. You might even be impressed by just how fit and agile they seem to be - ask yourself if you could achieve the same thing in human terms!

Many hamster habitats have bars as part of their design, making it easy for lots of light and fresh air to reach your hamster, while keeping them nice and secure inside. 

The fact that the bars also act as a bit of a playground may feel like it's a bit of a bonus, but if it pairs with the sight of your hamster biting the cage, you may start to worry your pet is planning The Great Escape instead! It’s only natural to wonder if this kind of behavior is normal, and beyond that, if it’s safe. 

In this piece, we’ll be exploring why hamsters love to climb the cage, discovering when it’s not always safe to do and deciphering whether your hamster is happy with the cage set up in the first place.

• How to help a stressed hamster: Vet's guide to symptoms and causes
• How to find a lost hamster
• Why is my hamster biting me?

Should hamsters climb? 

In the wild, hamsters climb all the time. These are agile, exploratory little creatures that travel far and wide in the wild, venturing over plenty of different habitats, which will generally include some element of climbing. 

Although you may not find something that exactly mimics cage bars in nature, the behavior to climb or scramble is all perfectly normal, and not something to be overly worried about in most instances. 

If your hamster is otherwise displaying happy behavior, then you shouldn’t be too concerned, but it's worth keeping an eye on your hamster’s surroundings to make sure they don’t inadvertently hurt themselves or are climbing because they are distressed about something else. 

You’ll also probably notice that your hamster jumps or falls from the bars that they are climbing. Again, this is generally not a problem when it’s short distances, and/or if the floor of the cage is well-covered in soft bedding material. You should ensure that any wire sections don’t have a steep drop directly underneath them, and always keep the floor well-covered to cushion any impact.

Why is my hamster climbing or jumping up his cage? 

There are lots of reasons why you might find your hamster climbing their cage, and mostly they are nothing to worry about. Some of them can indicate a small problem which is easily fixable, too. 

Some common reasons include: 

• Natural instinct Hamsters will climb plenty of objects in the wild, so it’s in their nature to do this
• Excess energy  If the hamster doesn’t have enough access to other ways to burn off energy, such as a small cage, or no wheel
• Boredom If the hamster doesn’t have much stimulation, such as toys, a wheel, or a small cage, they might try to alleviate boredom by climbing
• Curiosity The hamster might simply know what it’s like to climb, or may reason that it’s the easiest / quickest route to another area of the cage
• Trying to escape  Occasionally, a hamster may feel distressed and want to escape from their cage - this is rare and usually only if they have a small or unsuitable cage

How to stop a hamster climbing the cage  

Although you shouldn’t be too concerned about your hamster climbing, there are certain reasons why it’s not always optimal behavior. The following changes are worth exploring to ensure your hamster is happy in life.

Rotate their toys

If your hamster has excess energy, it could be that they don’t have enough to occupy them. Make sure they have a good variety of hamster toys available to play with, and perhaps even try switching out the toys on a regular basis to keep their brain as active as possible.

Check your cage size

You should also make sure that your hamster’s cage is as large as you have room for, to give them plenty of space to roam and explore. You might still find that they climb the bars - sometimes it’s just fun for them - but you could also investigate ‘tank type’ hamster cages that remove bars altogether if you’re particularly worried.

If you’re keen to give your hamster an upgrade on their living quarters, don't forget to check out our guide to the best hamster cages.

Encourage burrowing activity

Make sure you also place plenty of burrowing material in your hamster’s cage, as burrowing is another activity that hamsters will carry out to prevent boredom. You could even purchase a digging tower for them to give them a specific place to carry out this activity. 

Adding lots of burrowing material to the bottom of their cage has the added bonus of cushioning any falls from the bars should they occur (try not to worry too much about this, hamsters are generally pretty hardy little creatures)

Give them plenty of time outside 

You should also make sure that your hamster gets plenty of time outside their cage to play. That could be within a pen you’ve specifically constructed, or just in the hands of their favorite human. Giving them time outside the cage keeps them stimulated and uses up their excess energy, making them less likely to spend time climbing the bars. 

How can I tell if my hamster is happy in the cage? 

It may not always be super obvious if your hamster is happy with his lot in life - they’re not generally as easy to read as dogs or cats. However, there are a few tell-tale signs which will display if your hamster is contented enough in their cage, or if they long for something else.

The biggest signal of happiness in a hamster is that they are relaxed and happy to show vulnerability. If you see them often grooming themselves, yawning and stretching, then this shows that they're happy in their surroundings and trust that they’re not in any danger. 

You’ll also see them displaying other behaviors that show off happiness - such as coming close to the cage door when you’re in the vicinity. 

Collecting and storing their food in different areas around the cage shows that they're happy with their living arrangements, while running on wheels and playing with their toys and puzzles also shows contentment. Lastly, burrowing is a happy behavior which generally shows that they’re happy in their environment. 

Although you may not think of small pets as particularly cuddly or affectionate, learning how to bond with your hamster can lead to a more rewarding relationship than you might have thought possible.

Probably the most important thing you will need when learning to bond with your hamster is patience and lots of it. It’s hardly a surprise that hamsters and other small pets are naturally nervous of humans, considering the size difference! In this guide, we’ll be answering some common questions you might have, including how to handle and play with your fur friend.

If you’re new to hamster ownership, you may also want to know how to check for signs of a stressed hamster, and find out how provide them with the optimal living environment to meet their needs. Our guides to quality hamster toys and top-rated hamster cages will ensure your little friend has everything they need to thrive. 

• 5 reasons why your hamster is scared of you
• Why is my hamster biting me?
• How to set up a hamster cage

How long does it take for a hamster to bond with you? 

Small animals like hamsters are naturally shy and cautious, so don’t expect an instant bond to form the moment you bring your new hamster home. Be prepared to take baby steps so as not to scare or overwhelm them, letting them settle in gently and slowly.

When you bring your hamster home, expect it to be a couple of weeks - at least - for a full bond to form. Don’t rush to get them outside of their cage straightaway, give them a couple of days to settle in before interacting with them at all. 

What are the ways to bond with a hamster? 

Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to hamster bonding. First of all, give them some time to get used to your voice, your presence and even your scent. It might feel a bit silly, but talk to them in their cage - using a soft and gentle voice. 

Once they seem to have settled into their new home reasonably well, you can start to take the next step. Open the cage door and very gently place your hand inside the cage - being careful not to make any sudden movements or loud noises. Repeat this a few times to get your hamster used to your smell and your presence. 

The next thing you can try is including a small piece of food in your hand when you place it in the cage. With any luck, your curious hamster will come and sniff out the treat you’ve presented, and if they feel secure and safe they will take this. Try stroking your hamster gently while they are eating, and again repeat this a few times before you attempt to pick them up or remove them from the cage. 

How to hold a hamster 

Hamsters have a reputation for being tricky to hold since they’re small, wriggly and unpredictable. While that’s true, once you have built up a good bond with your hamster, you should find that they are easier to manage. 

You want your hamster to feel safe and secure when you’re holding them, which largely comes from how you approach the task. You must never take your hamster by surprise - so make sure they’re looking towards you before you attempt to hold them. 

Approach your hamster calmly and gently, but confidently so that they know you’re not likely to drop them or hurt them. Using two hands is preferable, creating a scoop underneath their bottom. It’s best if you pick up the hamster so it is facing you, making it less likely that the hamster will jump off as they’ll be able to see what’s going on. You can also bring it towards your body to create a sense of security. 

Avoid holding your hamster in a high position where they might jump and injure themselves.

How to show affection to your hamster  

Just like most animals, hamsters are receptive to affection. You can show your rodent friend that you love them in myriad ways. 

As well as gently stroking their fur and ears, you can also give them treats that you know that they’ll love (though not too many). Holding them regularly and playing with them also shows them that they are part of your life. Introducing hamster toys to both their cage and any time outside of it is a good way to show affection too. 

How often should I hold my hamster?

Hamsters need plenty of stimulation, but they also like routine. Where possible, you should be aiming to hold and play with your hamster every day. 

Holding them at roughly the same time every day is also a good idea, and you should be mindful not to disturb them when they are sleeping, eating, drinking or going to the bathroom. You may have heard that hamsters are nocturnal, but it’s fairer to say that they are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk. Try to time your interactions with them when they are at their most receptive to being handled for the best results.

How to get your hamster to come out of their cage 

You may find that you have a particularly shy hamster, especially when they’re a new addition to your household or are so comfortable that they don’t want to leave their cage! Forcing them to come out of their cage is never a good idea, but there are things you can do to encourage them to want to come out. 

For example, you can place treats near to the door of the cage, leaving the door open with supervision and watching to see if they gently come out. You can also place some hamster toys near to the cage door and watch to see if they come to investigate. 

Never rush your hamster, and give them plenty of time to get used to your voice and smell. Most hamsters will eventually come to bond with their owners and be only too pleased for some time outside of their cage.

Lastly, if you have any other pets - such as cats or dogs - make sure they’re out of the room when you want to get your hamster out. Even if you trust your larger pets, your hamster is likely to be scared or anxious around bigger animals. 

How to play with your hamster  

As well as a good range of official hamster toys that you can buy, hamsters are easily pleased with more basic run-of-the-mill household goods. 

A common one that appeals to hamsters is the tubes you find inside toilet roll and kitchen roll, and even wrapping paper. Introducing these cardboard tubes to your hamster is a good way to play with them. 

Letting your hamster run from one hand to the other in a stepping motion is a classic play tactic that they will usually enjoy, too. You may see hamster balls for sale - clear plastic balls which give your hamster the opportunity to run around the house somewhat unsupervised. The consensus these days is that these toys shouldn’t be used, as they can cause stress and danger to your hamster - an exercise pen or or larger cage should be considered for playtime instead. 

How do you know if your hamster has bonded with you? 

It might not be as overwhelmingly obvious as with pets like cats and dogs, but hamsters definitely do bond their owners and display behaviors which demonstrate that.

The biggest indicator is that the hamster is not tense with you and is happy to be picked up and handled. Other clues are perhaps a little more subtle, such as them being relaxed enough to display relaxed activities like yawning and stretching. You may even find that your hamster bonds so closely with you that they will fall asleep on you - then you’ll know that your hamster has become very attached to you indeed.

If you want to help your stressed hamster, it’s important to get to the root of the problem and know the signs of stress to look out for.

This might come as a surprise, but hamsters are very sensitive creatures and are highly susceptible to stress, which, in some cases, can even lead to death. To keep your furry friend happy and healthy, you’ll need to provide them with the best hamster toys for enrichment, a cage with sufficient space, and a clean environment to live in.

Below, expert vet Dr. Hannah Godfrey explains why your hamster might be feeling stressed, what the symptoms look like, and how to help them if you suspect they’re unwell. She has also compiled a complete guide on hamster body language.

Hamster stress symptoms

If your hamster is stressed, you might notice that they have some of the following symptoms:

• Hair loss/fur changes Stressed hamsters will sometimes overgroom or pull their fur out, leading to bald patches or hair thinning. But, even aside from self-inflicted baldness, stress can cause your hamster’s fur to change over time to become more sparse, more oily, or more dishevelled.
• Aggressive behavior Hamsters who are feeling stressed are much more likely to lash out. So, mind your fingers and give your hamster some space while you try to reduce their stress levels.
• Cage biting If you see your hamster regularly biting at the bars or the plastic on their cage, this could signify that they are feeling stressed.
• Digging Excessive digging and other repetitive behaviors like rolling, scratching, licking, or scurrying in circles can all be signs of a stressed hamster.
• High-energy behaviors When people are stressed, sometimes they withdraw and have little energy, but stressed hamsters are often hyperactive and restless. It's common for stressed hamsters to run the same route around their cage over and over again or to spend lengthy spells on their exercise wheel.
• Vocalising Although you might be used to your hamster keeping you awake at night as they noisily go about their daily routine, you probably haven't heard your hamster making their own noises. Hamsters are normally pretty quiet, but when they're stressed, you might notice them making more noise than usual. This could be their way of communicating that they are nervous, scared, or distressed.

Why is my hamster stressed?

Hamsters can become stressed for multiple reasons. Hamster stress can be caused by fear. Being so small, it’s easy to understand why hamsters might feel afraid sometimes. Scary situations for hamsters include loud noises, rough handling, being held at a height, sudden movements, or unfamiliar environments. For example, if you buy a new cage for your furry friend, even if it’s the best hamster cage, the fact that it is a new environment that they’re not used to could cause them stress.

Hamsters can also become stressed because they aren’t getting enough mental and physical stimulation. Boredom and a lack of enrichment can lead to frustration and stress symptoms. Stress symptoms can also develop if your hamster is unwell or in pain, so it's essential to get to know your hamster's normal behavior so that you can spot changes quickly.

How do you calm down a stressed hamster?

The most important thing you must do if you think your hamster is stressed is to take them to a vet. The vet can check for signs of pain or illness and give you advice on how to combat your hamster’s stress. Once you’re sure there’s no medical reason for your hamster’s anxious behavior, you can start looking for things to tweak in their environment or your handling.

You should ensure that your hamster’s home is the perfect size for them, with plenty of space for exercise, eating, drinking, and relaxing. Here are some tips for selecting the right size hamster cage.

Ensure that their cage is in a quiet part of the house, away from other pets and without much footfall. Keeping up with a regular and thorough cleaning regime will also help to alleviate their stress, as will providing them with chews and toys for enrichment. When it comes to handling, it's not always easy to help your hamster feel more confident, especially if they haven't been handled from a young age.

However, making sure that you don't smell of chemicals or perfume, keeping your movements slow, and holding them close to the ground will help.

Hamster body language guide

If you own a hamster, you’ll soon get to know and understand their body language if you pay close attention. But here’s an easy guide for what your hamster is trying to tell you:

• Happy A happy hamster might stretch and yawn to show they are relaxed. If you watch your hamster display their normal behaviors like grooming and digging, this is a sign that they are happy. If they watch you back and have their ears pointed up, this is a sign that they're interested and curious, rather than afraid.
• Scared A hamster who is scared or feeling threatened might stand on their hind legs or turn on their back, showing their teeth. They often puff out their cheeks and hold their ears flat or forward. You might hear them vocalising and, if you don’t give them space, they might bite.
• Depressed A depressed hamster might be more lethargic. However, it's common for boredom and under-stimulation to cause hyperactivity. So, you might notice them turning or rolling repeatedly, biting their cage, or over-using their wheel.

Stressed hamster: Frequently asked questions

Although hamsters are tiny, hamster stress is a big problem. If you take home a little ball of fluff, it's worth doing your research to make sure you handle them correctly and provide them with everything they need for a happy and relaxed life.

You might also want to read: Why is my hamster sleeping in the corner of their cage?

If you’re the proud pet parent of a little hammy who you love more than anything, but they keep trying to attack you every time you go near them, then you may have found yourself asking the question ‘why is my hamster biting me?’

Believe it or not, this is a more common phenomenon than you might think and it doesn’t necessarily mean your hamster is aggressive or that you’re not doing a great job of being a pet parent.

Even if you’ve invested in one of the best hamster cages, filled it with plenty of toys for your little one to keep themselves occupied with and you provide them with a nourishing and delicious diet, your hammy may still lash out when you come near them.

The good news is, that most of the time the reasons why your hamster is biting you are quite easy to figure out, and even better? It’s fixable! That’s right, armed with a few tips and tricks you can put a stop to your body being used as a chew toy and develop a loving and peaceful relationship with your pocket pet.

Below you’ll find five of the most common reasons that hamsters bite, as well as a range of tips and tricks you can use to help put an end to this unwanted behavior once and for all.

• 5 reasons why your hamster is scared of you
• Hamster biting cage? Here's what to do
• Five hamster breeds: Which furry friend is right for you?
• How to set up a hamster cage

Why is my hamster biting me?

There are several common reasons why hamsters bite and being aware of them can help minimize the risk of your hammy lashing out when you come near them.

1. Type of hamster

Believe it or not, the type of hamster you have can actually play a part in how likely they are to bite you. Dwarf hamsters are more inclined to bite than Syrian hamsters and this is because of their smaller size. They tend to be more defenseless than their larger siblings because they can’t move as quickly and therefore feel more vulnerable.

Dwarf hamsters are also known for being more territorial than Syrian hamsters when it comes to their habitat, so biting could be a way of them trying to protect their home from what they see as an invasion. That’s not to say that a Syrian won’t also bite, but they’re not as hyperactive as Dwarf hamsters and are known for being friendlier. 

2. It doesn’t mean they’re aggressive

If your hamster is biting you, you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’ve just struck it unlucky and got a nightmare for a pocket pet, but that’s not necessarily the case. Biting doesn’t automatically mean your hamster is aggressive.

Something that you might not know is that hamsters don’t have particularly strong or coordinated forepaws, so they tend to rely heavily on their dexterous jaw to move objects around. If your hand is in their cage, they could well be biting you simply as a means of trying to move your hand out of the way.

3. They don’t like being handled

Some hamsters simply don’t like being touched or handled in any way and may bite if you try to pick them up, not because they’re aggressive (as mentioned above), but because they’re feeling stressed or frightened. It’s important that you respect your hammy’s limits and don’t try to push them past what they’re comfortable with.

4. Your scent

One thing that a lot of us who own pocket pets may not be aware of is just how much our scent can act as a trigger for biting behavior. Hamsters have a very acute sense of smell and if they pick up any residual smell of food on your hands or the scent of another hamster, this can cause them to bite.

5. They may be injured or unwell

It’s possible that your hamster has taken a tumble off their exercise wheel and sprained their foot or is just feeling a bit under the weather. Not all injury or illness is obvious and it could be that you’re touching them somewhere that hurts. If you suspect your hammy may not be well, make sure you take them to the vet straight away for a check up.

• How to find a lost hamster
• How long can a hamster go without food?
• What can hamsters eat? A vet’s guide to good nutrition

How can I stop my hamster from biting me?

If you’re getting bitten every time you try to go near your hammy, then you’re likely desperately in search of some tips and tricks to help you get closer to your pocket pet without the risk of injury. And the good news is, there’s plenty you can do to reduce the likelihood of your hammy lashing out.

1. Build trust slowly

It can be tempting to want to rush right in there and smother your new hammy with love, but just like we humans can take time to warm up to strangers, our pocket pets need that same time to warm up to us. 

If your hamster is a new addition to your family, give them some time to get used to their environment and adjust to the changes. Don’t try and handle them at all during the first week, but do stay close by. 

You may find it helpful to sit by the cage and talk to your hammy so that they can get used to the sound of your voice. Placing a tissue or one of the best hamster toys in their cage with your scent on it can also be a great way of getting them used to you. 

2. Use treats

We’re not sure about you, but food will get you almost anywhere with us and the same often applies with our pocket pets. We mean, seriously, if someone offered you your favorite treat, how could you not fall in love with them? It’s impossible!

Vegetables and nuts are a great treat choice, although don’t overdo the latter given how high in calories they are. Hold out the treat and allow them to nibble it, but don’t try to touch them as this could scare them and cause them to engage in the very behavior you’re trying to get them to stop.

3. Don’t disturb them if they’re sleeping

Trust us, you do not want to wake a sleeping hamster. In fact, we can’t think of many pets or people that enjoy being woken from a deep slumber to be held or played with, it can cause a major cause of the grumps and could well lead to you being bitten.

4. Be gentle

It’s important that all your movements when you’re around your hamster are calm, slow, and gentle. If you’re wanting to initiate contact, proceed at a cautious pace. Take some time to sit by the cage first and perhaps let your hammy smell your hand before you touch them. 

The best way to try to get your hammy to engage is to hold out your hand and let them come to you. If they hop into your palm, great, if they won’t come near you, don’t try and force it. Let interactions happen naturally, on their terms and at their pace.

5. Wash your hands

Always, always, always wash your hands before you go anywhere near your hamster. Remember, they have an acute sense of smell and will pick up on the scent of food or other animals. 

• How big should a hamster cage be?
• How to clean a hamster cage
• 5 cool DIY hamster habitats your little pocket pet will love

Learning how to set up a hamster cage is one of the first steps to being a responsible hamster pet parent. You’ll want to consider things like the size of the cage, materials for burrowing, and other items you can add for their enrichment like a hamster wheel and drinking bottle.

If you invest in one of the best hamster cages, you’re already on the right track. In their hamster cage, you want to be sure that they have plenty of space to act out their natural habits like burrowing and you’ll need some of the best hamster toys to keep them occupied.

As for how to set up your hamster cage, we spoke to vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan and she gave us her top tips for making sure it’s set up to support your hamster’s development. Let’s see what she had to say.

How big should a hamster cage be?

The first thing you should consider when researching the best hamster cages to buy is the size (and shape) of the cage. You should also think about the space that you have available to put the cage.

Although hamsters are small, they are creatures who like to burrow, dig, and run around, so you should plan for as big a cage as is practically possible - in terms of available space, budget, and your ability to keep it clean.

For more detailed information on why the size of a hamster’s cage is important, read our guide on how big should a hamster cage be.

How much bedding does a hamster need?

Inside the cage, you’ll need a couple of different layers of bedding and different types. Throughout the cage’s main areas, you should have a base level of “substrate” material, which acts a bit like the cage’s carpet.

Lots of hamster owners go for sawdust here, as it’s cheap, easy to burrow in, and absorbent. You want to include a nice thick layer to give your hamster plenty of capacity to burrow and to provide a nice warm base for the cage.

You should also include a different type of bedding that your hamster will use for sleeping. There are lots of different types of material that you can use for this, but generally, you should avoid anything that is fluffy or prone to separating in a tangly way (such as cotton wool) - in case your hamster’s limbs get caught or stuck.

If you’re wondering do hamsters hibernate – the answer is, yes it’s actually called torpor, which is similar to hibernation. But it’s not good for domesticated hamsters to do so, as it’s usually a sign that they are too cold. To avoid this, you should make sure that their cage is lovely and warm, has plenty of bedding, and is kept somewhere away from draughts.

Can you use toilet paper for hamster bedding?

Lots of online forums and advice sites suggest that using toilet paper is a good idea for hamster bedding. But before you use it, make sure that it’s ripped into strips so that your hamster can nest with it appropriately. You should also avoid using dyed or colored toilet paper as this can be harmful to your hamster should they stuff it in their cheeks (which many hamsters will do if they fancy moving their bed to a different area).

You should also note that human toilet paper is not designed to eliminate odors in the same way that bedding designed specifically for small pets often is. In short, while you can use it, using specifically designed hamster bedding is usually a better and more convenient option.

What hamster accessories should I buy?

Once you’ve settled on a cage – or at least the type of cage – you want to buy, you should also think about the accessories you will need to make sure your hamster is a happy one.

There are many hamster accessories you can buy. Dr. MacMillan recommends the following items…

Wheel

Making sure your hamster gets plenty of exercise is very important. Dr. MacMillan says, “It is important to get the correct size for your hamster so that they can exercise freely without causing back injuries. The wheel should be enclosed on one side and have a solid running surface, to avoid injuries.”

Food bowl

Although your hamster will invariably move, burrow, and hide their food, having a centralized bowl to put it in is helpful to monitor how much food they’re taking. Keep an eye on any secondary food sources to make sure it’s always clean and freshly replenished. If you’re not sure exactly what to feed your hamster, check out these 32 surprising things your hamster can eat and things hamsters shouldn’t eat.

Water bottle

“This can be a shallow water bowl or a bottle. A bowl will allow your hamster to drink in a more natural position but is more at risk of being spilled or contaminated with food and bedding,” says Dr. MacMillan. You can also look for those that clip onto the side of the cage with an opening inside it. Make sure you change the water daily.

Toys

As well as a wheel, giving your hamster plenty to play with is a great way to keep them occupied and stimulated. You can pick up plenty of the best hamster toys, but you can also use things like old paper towel rolls or toilet roll tubes as budget- and eco-friendly alternatives. Check out these 8 DIY hamster toys for inspiration if you don’t want to buy new.

Chew Sticks

Hamsters and other rodents need to chew to keep their ever-growing teeth in check. Many hamsters will take the opportunity to chew things that they shouldn’t, or aren’t that healthy for them - such as cage bars. Try to minimize that problem by giving them toys and sticks which are specifically designed for chewing.

How to stop a hamster cage from smelling

Once your hamster cage is all set up, and your hamster is in situ, you might be wondering how to keep it nice, fresh, and clean.

Essentially this is all down to knowing how to clean a hamster cage. Also, make sure you include plenty of substrate bedding (such as sawdust) to mop up any odors, and if you find it to be particularly problematic, consider looking out for bedding specifically designed to reduce, eliminate, or minimize smells.

If you found this helpful check out Do hamsters smell?

Has your hamster been biting theor cage? While you may think this is a normal behavior due to all the chewing these tiny fur balls love doing, you need to think again. While yes, the constant gnawing and chewing is a normal behavior for hamsters, as it helps grind their teeth down to the right length, chewing on their cage can be cause for concern.

A hamster could be biting their cage due to stress, anxiety, or frustration. If a hamster is living in a cage that is too small, for example, this could lead to a very unhappy hamster and they might bite their cages for this reason. You can read up on ways to help a stressed hamster.

Or if they don’t have enough stimulating material in their cage to chew, this could be another reason for your hamster to be frustrated. You can prevent this by investing in one of the best hamster cages and stocking it with some of the best hamster toys.

Dr. Rebecca MacMillan goes into more detail about the possible reasons your hamster is biting their cage, let’s take a look.

Why is my hamster biting their cage?

While biting is a natural behavior for hamsters, it won’t distinguish between things it should gnaw at and things it shouldn’t, such as its cage. So if it is biting its cage, you’ll want to find out the reason so you can find a solution.

You may ask yourself why you need to stop your hamster from biting its cage. The main reason is that this can lead to broken, cracked, or damaged teeth, or worse, painful mouth infections or injuries. Depending on the type of cage you’ve bought, the metal or paint could be toxic to your pet if ingested. You don’t want your hamster to be stressed, bored, or unhappy as this could result in other health issues. Plus, it could be trying to escape – something you definitely don’t want.

Reasons hamsters bite their cage

Boredom

If your hamster is biting its cage it may be bored or looking for a bit more attention from you. You’ll need to make sure your pet is getting enough mental and physical stimulation. This means providing it with a big enough cage so it has enough space to exercise, lots of enriching toys, and ensuring you are making time to play with them.

It may depend on the species of hamster you have, but you’ll want to know how big a hamster cage should be to ensure your hamster has enough space. Generally, we’d recommend 40in x 20in x 20in of unbroken floor space. If you change their cage and they’re still biting the bars, try a glass aquarium tank.

If you want to make sure they’re getting enough exercise, let your hamster out of its cage at least three times a week (although once every 24 hours is recommended). This should be in an enclosed area that has been hamster-proofed – remove any electrical cords, clear the space and close off any holes or escape routes. You need to spend time with your hamster.

If you’re taking them out of the cage, go gently so they don’t feel like you’re invading their space. Offer up your hands for a nibble and use both hands to carry them out or use a small bowl or box that they can choose to climb into. Dr. MacMillan says, “Rough handling could be triggering them into a state of anxiety… You must also check that young children are holding the hamster appropriately; handling should always be supervised.”

When you’re not around to play, make sure they have lots of safe items to chew and play with. Wooden toys are particularly good such as ladders, houses and blocks, or rodent chew or food blocks. A hamster wheel or exercise ball inside their cage is a great way to let them exercise, but don’t put it in direct sunlight and only let them use the ball for 15 minutes at a time.

Stress

Stress could be another reason why your hamster is biting its cage. Have you noticed any changes in its behavior? Again, it could be stressed if its cage is not big enough, if it isn’t happy with its bedding (cedar and pine bedding may irritate its lungs and skin), or if it doesn’t have enough toys to keep it occupied.

“Hamsters are a prey species and may feel threatened by cats or dogs around, so try and keep them separated… (the cat staring at their cage all day!) could be triggering them into a state of anxiety,” says Dr. MacMillan. You may want to look at the placement of the cage. If it’s by a window, birds could be making your furry friend nervous, or on the ground that big cat could look more menacing. Create a quiet environment where they’ll be happy.

Are you waking your pet up during the day to play or clean its cage? This is not a good idea. Hamsters are nocturnal mammals so you could be causing them upset by disturbing their sleep.

Managing teeth growth

Hamsters need to chew to stop their teeth from growing too long, but sometimes the food you give them isn’t enough to keep their gnashers busy. If they’re biting their cage to try and manage tooth growth the behavior is healthy – just not the material they’re using. You can solve this by giving your hamster untreated, oil-free, paint-free wood to chew on. Wood from an apple or pear tree is ideal, but avoid cedar or pine as the oils in these can be toxic to your pet. If the wood isn’t working alone, try rubbing it with apple or carrot for taste or another alternative is hard-shelled nuts.

Dog treats, such as a hard biscuit once a week, can also be used. Just ensure you’re buying garlic-free treats as treats with garlic which are one of the foods hamsters shouldn’t eat, as it can cause digestive problems. If you have some extra cardboard around the house, such as an empty toilet paper or paper towel roll, this will work as a chew toy too. You can cut holes in it to show your hamster it’s for gnawing and this will not only help with their teeth, but it will provide added stimulation.

Chewing for pleasure

As well as looking after their teeth, chewing is also fun for hamsters. If this is the case, follow the same advice so that they are still able to enjoy chewing, but staying safe at the same time. Try to avoid feeding them through the cage bars as this may worsen the problem.

What is hamster cage rage?

What is hamster cage rage?

If your hamster is biting its cage, you don’t necessarily need to worry. However, if they’re showing increasing changes in behavior, they could have hamster cage rage, so it’s important to be aware of this. Hamster cage rage is a serious psychological condition, which can cause your hamster emotional and physical harm.

It is caused when their living conditions are unsuitable, so if their cage is far too small, leading to excess stress and the disorder can result in lasting damage to your pet including a decreased lifespan. While the condition can affect all species, it affects Syrian hamsters in particular due to their size.

How to avoid hamster cage rage and stress

Once you’ve established why your hamster is chewing the bars on its cage, you can work on stopping this behavior. As you have already read, depending on the reason, there are lots of solutions from buying a bigger cage to providing your hamster with lots of toys and attention and ensuring they have a safe and happy environment. If none of these solutions work, you could try a bite deterrent spray. This is sprayed on the bars to stop your hamster from being tempted. Just make sure you take them out of their cage to apply it and make sure it’s dry before returning them inside.

Does my hamster have cage rage?

So how can you tell when your pet has this disorder? If your hamster is just biting its cage bars, it may be fine, but if its behaviour becomes excessive and frenzied, it could be something else. Hamsters don’t usually bite unless you’ve done something to upset them, so if they start to bite you more or become aggressive, lunging or attacking without warning and guarding the cage doors, this could be cage rage.

They may show repetitive, agitated behaviour such as shaking, racing, pacing or climbing around their cage for long periods. They may spit, squeak or squeal making it difficult to feed or handle them or clean the cage out. Other symptoms include changes in their sleep patterns, urinating and drinking more frequently, destroying their toys or bedding and hoarding food.

Found this helpful? Check out how to set up a hamster cage and surprising things hamsters can eat.

They may look like butter wouldn’t melt, but these pocket pets are master escape artists, which is why knowing how to find a lost hamster is a trick well worth having up your sleeve if you’re the proud pet parent of one of these clever cuties. 

Even if you’ve invested in the best hamster cage that makes getting out of Fort Knox look like child's play, the chances are if there’s a way to escape, your little Houdini hamster will find it!

While their small size can make locating them tricky, the good news is that if your hammy has broken free of their abode, there are plenty of great tips that can help make tracking them down a lot easier. 

Below, we talk you through a range of helpful ideas that will have your pocket pet back home and playing with their hamster toys in the safety and security of their cage before you know it. Ready to find your mischievous forever friend? Let’s do this!

• What can hamsters eat?
• Five hamster breeds: which furry friend is right for you?
• 5 cool DIY hamster habitats your little pocket pet will love
• Why is my hamster biting me? 

1. Do a thorough sweep of their cage

We know, that sounds ridiculous, right? But remember that hamsters are small creatures with a natural love of burrowing, so it’s quite possible they could be hiding under a mound of shredded newspaper or have tucked themselves away inside their toy tunnel.

Even if you don’t find your hammy at home when you go looking, depending on the materials that you’ve used to construct the flooring of their cage, you may find they’ve left behind a little Hansel and Gretel like trail that will at least let you know which direction they set off in. 

2. Check your furniture and appliances

Once you’ve checked the cage and found it empty, it’s time to start getting up close and personal with your furniture and appliances. Look under those couches and beds, search that bookcase, open up those cabinets, closets and drawers, and check behind any warm and cozy appliances like washers, dryers, and heaters.

We recommend you do all of this with a flashlight, as some of those spaces can look very dark to the naked eye and your hamster could be easy to miss. And do take care when moving furniture and appliances and putting them back in their place, you don’t want to accidentally squash your furry friend!

3. Inspect clothing and personal items

Hamsters aren’t called pocket pets for nothing, so you’ll want to do a thorough check of all your clothing, backpacks and handbags to make sure they’re not hiding a little stowaway. 

Digging and burrowing are two of your hammy’s favorite things, so it makes sense that they’d take an open backpack as an invitation to climb right on in there. The chances of this happening increase ten-fold if you tend to be someone who stashes nuts and seeds in there for on-the-go snacks. 

• How to clean a hamster cage
• How big should a hamster cage be?
• How long can a hamster go without food?

4. Make sure to hamster hunt at night

Hamsters are nocturnal, which means they’re far more active during the night than they are during the day. To give yourself the best chance of locating your little runaway, look for them once darkness has fallen when they’re most likely to be moving about. 

5. Don’t forget the treats

If you’re anything like us, the one thing that would likely to get you to come out of hiding is food, so laying a tasty trap for your hammy is a good way to lure them out from their secret spot. 

These little guys are particularly fond of sunflower seeds, so pop pre-counted piles around the house and check them in the morning. If you notice they’re only missing from a particular room, you will have narrowed down your search considerably!

6. Track their movements 

Another helpful way to halve your search area is to dig around in your baking drawer and use any flour or cornstarch you have to help you track your little one’s movements.

Sprinkle one of these around the seed piles you’ve created and your hamster will step in the white powder and leave footprints in the direction they’ve headed off in after eating the seeds. 

7. Foil your floor

Believe it or not, there’s nothing quite like some strategically placed aluminum foil to help you quickly and easily locate your hammy within your home. Simply lie sheets down around your house and as they walk or run across it, you’ll hear the rustling noise and be able to get them safely and securely stowed back in their cage where they belong.

Give your hammy a helping hand by leaving their cage door open

Finally, while it may sound obvious, one of the best things you can do is to leave the door of your hamsters cage open so that it’s easy for them to come home. Hamsters are curious little creatures, so they’ll often disappear off exploring if given half the chance,  but they’re also highly likely to make their way back to their cage once they’ve finished their adventure. Leave the door to their cage open and you may find they’re soon back where they belong. 

If you’re new to the world of pocket pet parenthood, you might be questioning, ‘‘How long can a hamster go without food?’

We’d love to put them in the best hamster cage and spend all day with them, but of course, this isn’t always possible when we have work and other commitments. That’s why knowing how long you can leave them without topping up their food bowl is a good idea.

Whilst it’s not advisable, a healthy hamster can generally go several days without food or water. However, make sure you leave them with plenty of supplies if you’re going away, and have someone check that they’re doing okay.

Here’s everything you need to know about leaving your hamster, including how much food to leave them with. We’ve also explained the risks so you’re completely prepared:

How long can a hamster go without food?

Most hamsters can survive for around three to four days without any food or water. That’s because in the wild, hamsters are typically desert animals who will stash away resources for times of famine and drought, which means they likely already have some food hidden in their cage that you’re not aware of!

It’s important to remember that the three to four day rule is based on a number of factors:

• How healthy your hamster is
• How old they are
• How well you’ve taken care of them
• The temperature of the room they’re in

How long do hamsters live? Around two to three years, with those under three months and those over two years requiring more care than adult hamsters. The same goes for sick hamsters. Age and health may dictate an increased need for food and fluid or a different feeding pattern, so these are things worth considering.

What your hamster ate for their last meal will also affect how long they can go before they need to eat again. If they tend to eat protein-rich meals containing things like grains, seeds and pellets, they’ll feel fuller for far longer than if they’ve just consumed fruits and vegetables.

How to make sure your hamster has enough food and water when you’re gone

We recommend that if you’re going away, you have someone pop over to your house every day to check on your furry friend and replenish their food and water stocks. But if that’s not doable, don’t worry, it’s still possible for you to leave your hammy home alone for a weekend and come back to find him fighting fit.

You want to make sure that alongside leaving your pocket pet’s water tube full, you also leave them a mixture of dry and wet food. Dry food, like pellets, contain little to no water, whereas fruits and vegetables contain a lot of fluid, which will help keep your hammy topped up if they run out of water.

As well as popping pellets and grains in their cage, leave some cucumber, lettuce, and some pieces of strawberry, pear or apple. This will ensure they have everything they need while you’re away and will be more than enough to cover them for 48 hours - if you’re going to be gone for longer, increase the portions.

For example, for five days away, you’d want to provide the following:

• Around 150 ml of water
• ¼ - ½ cup dry food, that’s around two to three teaspoons for every day you’re away
• A dry biscuit or food stick to nibble on
• A few slices of water-based fruits and vegetables

If you have a greedy little hammy on your hands, we recommend erring on the side of caution and leaving some extra food to keep them happy. You don’t want to come back to a hangry hamster!

How long can I leave my hamster alone for?

There’s no hard and fast rule around how long your hammy can be left alone for and we recommend you always have someone on call who can stop by and check in on them while you’re out of town.

That being said, if it’s not possible to get a pocket pet sitter, then we advise that hamsters be left alone for no more than a week and that they’re left with adequate food and water. Any longer than this and your hamster (particularly if they’re highly social and used to being handled frequently) may start to feel your absence.

The risks of leaving your hamster alone for too long

Alongside the possibility of running out of food and water, which shouldn’t be an issue if you follow the guidelines above, there are other risks associated with leaving your hamster alone.

The first of these is that hamsters are well known for being expert escape artists, so you do run the risk that your furry friend may try and make a break for it while you’re away, wreaking havoc around the house while they’re at it.

If your hamster is known for their love of adventuring, you might want to consider placing their cage in the bathtub - that way, if they escape, there’s nowhere for them to go and no wires for them to chew through or other hazards that could pose a danger to them.

And while the best hamster toys are ideal for keeping your little one mentally and physically stimulated, avoid leaving them with any rope toys that they could get tangled up in or anything with small parts that they could swallow.

When you return home, make sure to give your hammy a thorough going over. Look for any signs of distress or illness, such as a runny nose, wheezing, any bald patches where there should be fur, loose stools, a lot of food and water left in their cage. And if you’re at all worried, take them to the vet immediately.

To find out what can hamsters eat and ways to keep your hamster happy, check out these features.

There’s nothing more satisfying than a bit of DIY and these hamster habitats are the perfect excuse to whip out those crafting materials and get to work on creating a little something special for your much-loved pocket pet.

While the best hamster cages provide you with a quick and easy way to house your little friend, nothing quite says ‘I love you’ like taking the time to make a super special home and with a ton of inspiration below, you definitely won’t be short of ideas!

Using a range of different materials from cardboard to popsicle sticks, these hamster habitats take a little bit of time to put together, but we promise you they’re well worth the effort. 

You’ll find some are small and best used in conjunction with one of the best rabbit runs to provide your hammy with plenty of space to move around in, while others are much larger and will comfortably accommodate both your pocket pet and several of the best hamster toys.

So, without further ado, let’s take a closer look at five of the coolest DIY hamster habitats that use simple materials to create eye-catching designs that both your forever friend and all the visitors to your home are sure to love.

• How big should a hamster cage be?
• How to clean a hamster cage
• Five hamster breeds: Which furry friend is right for you

1. Popsicle stick hamster house

A hamster house built entirely from popsicle sticks and fashioned with popsicle stick hamster-sized furniture? Sign us up! Measuring 36cm wide, 29cm deep and 37cm high, this house provides different levels and areas to explore, making it ideal for banishing boredom. There’s even a self-closing door that lets your hammy get in and out with ease. Beautifully designed and super-affordable to make, this adorable hideaway ticks all the boxes.

2. Wooden hamster house

This hammy home is made from wood and is definitely the one for you if you love getting stuck into something that will leave you feeling satisfied at the end. We love that it features open and enclosed spaces with ramps to make getting between the two levels a breeze for your hamster. Just be sure to use non-toxic glue and we also recommend avoiding putting the light in as your hammy could harm themself by chewing through the wiring.

3. Fairy cottage hamster house

If you’re after a woodland or fairy-themed hamster home, then this adorable cottage is almost impossible to go past. Made from a mixture of wood and popsicle sticks and then lovingly hand painted, this home will add a touch of whimsy to your living space and provide the perfect place for your hammy to retreat to when they’re looking for a little bit of peace and quiet. 

4. Cardboard hamster house

This cute hamster house with amazing rainbow stairs is made from cardboard and comes jam packed with color, making it a total showstopper of a living space. While it is time consuming, taking on average 8 days for most people to make, the results are well and truly worth it. Functional, fun and with a dose of magic, this hamster home will delight both your hammy and everyone who comes to visit!

5. Advanced-level wooden hamster house

A labor of love that’s worth every minute, this stunning wooden hamster home is a hammy’s dream with beautifully made steps that lead up to their own private hideaway, plus a fully functional wooden hamster wheel, a bridge that enables your pocket pet to move across the top level, and a movable swing below for them to play on. If you can pull this one off, we have a feeling your hammy will love you forever!

How big should a hamster cage be? This is important to know if you’ve got a tiny furry friend on your hands. Hamsters are so small after all, so surely they shouldn’t need that much space, right?

You wouldn’t be the only one to think this. However, hamsters need plenty of space to support their natural habits. Hamsters love burrowing, exploring, and playing around. So investing in one of the best hamster cages that has enough room to accommodate all these behaviors is very important.

We spoke to vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out exactly how big a hamster cage should be and the exact dimensions she recommends.

How big should a hamster cage be

Dr. MacMillan says, “I would always recommend getting the largest-sized cage possible for your hamster. Both dwarf and Syrian hamsters require a minimum of 40in x 20in x 20in of unbroken floor space. This will give your hamster plenty of room to play and explore, allowing you to house an exercise wheel and toys comfortably.”

You should also think about how much of the cage’s floor space is taken up with other elements, such as wheels, food bowls, toilet areas, and bedding areas. Make sure there’s plenty of consideration for that when picking your hamster cage.

Although it’s important to bear in mind the different types of hamsters, roughly speaking, even smaller hamsters such as dwarf hamsters, Russian hamsters, or Chinese hamsters, also need plenty of space like larger Syrian hamsters. As you’ll often keep smaller hamsters in pairs, then there should be plenty of space to make sure they each have enough room (note: you should never keep more than one Syrian hamster in the same cage).

Why do hamsters need such large cages?

In the wild, hamsters can often roam for many miles at a time, so making sure there’s enough to stimulate and entertain your hamster in their cage is ideal for having a happy pet.

Obviously, it’s difficult to recreate that in the home environment. And, of course, hamsters are far less likely to be given free roam of larger areas of your home. It’s therefore imperative that you give them plenty of space to burn off all that natural energy.

As large a cage as you can afford, accommodating and practical is always a good idea. Also make sure you think about other stimulation in the cage, such as wheels, toys, and things for them to chew.

How to choose the best hamster cage?

When choosing a hamster cage, there are a few main things to consider. Dr. MacMillan advises, “The ideal cage should also have a layer that is deep enough base to house plenty of burrowing material. A large glass tank can tick these boxes or a design that features a cage over the top of a deep plastic box or base.”

She also adds, “The hamster cages with multiple pipes and chambers should be avoided, as should any cages with a lot of wire mesh floors which can be uncomfortable for hamsters to walk on, causing foot injuries.”

Other things to consider include:

• Style of hamster cage
• Ease of cleaning
• Ventilation possibilities

Types of hamster cage

There are three general styles of hamster cages – wire cages with a plastic base, an all-plastic modular construction, and aquarium-style cages. All have their pros and cons and should be carefully considered. After all a cage, is just one of the ways to keep your hamster happy.

In terms of creating the most amount of space, fun, and excitement for your hamster, modular systems that can be expanded offer maximum flexibility. It’s important however to remember that there should still be one large “continuous” expanse of space, even if you have multiple tubes and modules coming from the main area.

If you opt for a traditional wire-sided cage, bear in mind the type of hamster it is for. Smaller hamsters might be able to escape or get stuck in between thicker wires which might be OK for larger hamsters. Wire-sided cages can be problematic for excessive chewing. If you opt for this type of cage, you should ensure that there are plenty of other more appropriate things around for them to chew – such as some of the best hamster toys.

Aquarium-type hamster cages have their advantages, as they offer a bit more security for those who are anxious about the hamster escaping. But it tends to be hard to find one that offers an adequate amount of space, and they can also be quite heavy to move around.

Best type of hamster cage for cleaning

It’s extremely important to set up a good cleaning routine for your hamster cage.

In terms of practicalities, the simpler the cage, the easier it is to keep clean. Wire-sided cages with plastic bases tend to be the simplest to keep clean. With these, you can easily remove the sides, empty out whatever’s in the base, and reattach it in a matter of minutes.

Modular construction cages which require a little more effort to deconstruct and reconstruct can be a bit more complex to clean fully. With this type of cage, you might want to only deep clean the main area regularly, opting to spot-clean other supplemental areas depending on how much they are used. Think carefully about how much time you have to dedicate to cleaning a hamster cage and its various add-ons if you intend to opt for this type of cage.

Since aquarium-style hamster cages are heavy to move, cleaning can be a little tricky too.

Be sure to check out our guide on how to clean a hamster cage, too.

Best types of hamster cages for ventilation

It’s important to think about the environment that your hamster’s cage will be placed in. That means it should be well-ventilated (but not draughty), not disturbed by too much noise, not placed in a high-traffic area, and well-lit in a regular pattern.

Wire-sided cages are great for ventilation, but if there’s any kind of draught in the house, the hamster will be less protected from it. Make sure that if you opt for a modular plastic hamster cage or an aquarium-style hamster cage, it is properly ventilated and is placed somewhere that regularly benefits from fresh air coming into the room.

Found this helpful? Check out How to set up a hamster cage and Why is my hamster sleeping in the corner of their cage?

Want to know how to clean a hamster cage? You’re at the right place. Keeping your hamster’s cage clean is key to making sure your hamster stays happy and healthy. You’ll want to have a routine of daily spot cleaning and a more thorough weekly deep clean.

This is especially important when you’ve invested in one of the best hamster cages, as you’ll want to be sure that it stays in good condition for as long as possible.

Vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan also weighs in on how often to clean a hamster cage, how it should be cleaned, and even what to do with your hamster while you’re cleaning it. All of which are vital to make sure your hamster thrives.

How to clean a hamster cage: Step by step

1. Make sure your hamster is placed somewhere safe and secure away from the cage.
2. Remove any heavily soiled bedding first. Using your pet scoop or a gloved hand, remove the worst of the soiled bedding and place it in a bag or box to be disposed of.
3. Remove any non-fixed items in the cage such as food bowls, toys, chew sticks, tubes, and so on.
4. Next, empty out the rest of the bedding. If you have a cage that can be taken apart, or the end or top can be removed, an easy way to do this is to simply tip the contents of the cage into a bag or box.
5. If your cage doesn't come apart, then you may need to use a scoop or hand to remove the rest of the bedding. If you have an anxious hamster, it can be wise to keep some of the old bedding to mix with the new bedding to help them settle in quicker.
6. If you have a cage that can be dismantled, wash each part in warm, soapy water in a basin or a bucket. If your cage can’t be dismantled, use a spray solution (such as a dedicated small pet cleaner or dish soap diluted into warm water) and a cloth, rags, or kitchen towel.
7. Rinse off the cage’s components to make sure you remove any residue. If you’re using a spray, use a separate cloth with clean water to achieve the same goal.
8. Make sure you give any toys and accessories a similar clean too. Reconstruct the hamster cage if you’ve taken it apart.
9. Ensure that the cage and accessories are thoroughly dry before moving on to the next step. Either leave them to air dry or use a clean, dry towel.
10. Place fresh sawdust bedding into your hamster’s cage, plus any extra that they use in their sleeping area. Refill your hamster’s food bowl, and refresh the water in their bottle. Place any reserved bedding back into the cage at this point.
11. Once the cage is secured again, gently place your hamster back into the cage.

How often do you need to clean a hamster cage?

As we mentioned, you should do a daily spot clean and weekly deep clean to keep your hamster’s cage in the best shape possible. On daily spot cleans, Dr. MacMillan says, “This means removing any old pieces of fresh food and giving their bowl a wash in warm soapy water. You should also remove any areas of heavily soiled bedding.”

Every day, make sure you take out any soiled bedding and replace it with fresh, clean, and dry bedding. This will usually be a pretty easy job since hamsters tend to favor one spot for going about their business (generally in a corner). Investing in a small animal scoop to quickly remove the dirty matter is a wise idea, or alternatively, you could use disposable gloves and grab it with your hand.

You should also be cleaning any water bottles or food bowls daily ideally too, especially as this is a sure-fire place for bacteria to breed.

As for more thorough cleanings, these should be done weekly. Dr. MacMillan says “Remove all the furniture and toys from your hamster’s enclosure and wash them in warm soapy water, expecting them for wear and tear. You will then need to dispose of all the substrate and bedding into the trash and use a mild pet-safe disinfectant to clean inside the enclosure.

Once a week, it’s advisable to remove all bedding – whether it’s obviously dirty or not. Simply tip it all out, remove anything that has gotten stuck to the cage, and replace everything with clean, fresh, and dry bedding. At this point, removing objects in your hamster’s cage, such as wheels, food bowls, tubes, and so on is a good idea to make sure all the bedding is definitely removed.

Further to that, doing a deep clean once every month to six weeks will keep the cage in tip-top condition. With this, not only will you remove all the old bedding, but you will also give the cage and any associated accessories and toys a proper clean, either in a basin or with a damp cloth and cleaning agent.

Where do you put a hamster when cleaning the cage?

You might find that you can get away with leaving the hamster in the cage when doing the simple daily removal of soiled bedding. However, if your hamster is particularly cautious or anxious, they may not appreciate the intrusion into their home. In that case, placing them somewhere safe is a good idea. You’ll definitely want to take them out of the cage when performing the weekly or monthly clean.

A simple solution is to invest in a small portable hamster cage specifically for this purpose. Place some bedding (you can use bedding from their main cage to make them really feel at home) and a small amount of food in the small cage for them to enjoy while you’re cleaning their main home. A portable cage is useful if you ever need to take your hamster to the vet, so it’s a handy investment too.

If you don’t have such a cage, an alternative is to use a high-sided box that the hamster can’t escape from or jump out of. Something made of plastic is ideal since they are unlikely to chew through it quickly. Again, place some bedding and food inside the box to make them feel at home.

What can I use to clean my hamster’s cage?

It can be tempting to use strong cleaning solutions when you’re cleaning out anything that an animal has dirtied. However, you need to remember that lots of cleaning solutions can be potentially toxic to small animals.

The best bet is to use something mild, such as dish soap, for the weekly clean, along with lukewarm water to get rid of any stubborn stains and smells. Alternatively, you can get cleaning products that have been specifically formulated for use when cleaning small animal cages and habitats. These will give you peace of mind that they are safe for your furry little friends.

Avoid cleaning products that are particularly strong, such as bleach or anything containing ammonia.

How to clean your hamster

Do hamsters smell? Yes, they can! Although this article is primarily about cleaning your hamster’s habitat, you might occasionally need to clean the hamster itself.

Hamsters are generally clean animals and they do an excellent job of cleaning themselves. If they have something particularly dirty on them that they can’t seem to remove, you can step in with a piece of soft tissue or even a cotton bud. Use simple lukewarm water as this will remove most problems and will ensure you don’t introduce any problematic chemicals to your hamster.

Having a bottle of small animal shampoo at home is a wise idea in case your pet gets particularly dirty. If you do need to clean them more thoroughly, always ensure that you do it in a warm room and try to dry them as quickly as you can after the wash with a clean, dry, and warm towel. Never be tempted to use a hairdryer on your hamster.

Found this helpful? Check out how big should a hamster cage be?

If you're looking for a modern-style hamster home, look no further than the Savic Geneva Modern Hamster Cage.

This hammy habitat is one of the best hamster cages for style, fitting into any home interior with ease. It boasts two storeys and comes with a range of accessories, including a water bottle, feeding bowl, exercise wheel, and a ladder.

With its smart gray color and curved edges, the Geneva is definitely eye-catching, and there are some great design choices here, but how does it measure up as a potential hamster home for any breed?

Savic Geneva Modern Hamster Cage: Features

In addition to its unique contemporary two-storey design, the Geneva is slim in size, meaning you have more options on where you want to put the cage. 

It measures 19 x 19 x 21cm, making it ideal for a single dwarf hamster. If you're looking to buy for a bigger breed, such as Syrian, however, this may not the best choice. The curved edges look stylish but that can restrict space for bigger hamsters.

On the flip side, the cage features a deep base that's ideal for burrowing and there is a decent range of accessories included. However, pet owners looking to add additional items, such as hideouts and sand baths, may find themselves making choices on what stays and what goes as far as space is concerned.

One strength of the Geneva is how easy to clean it is. The cage is effectively in two parts – the bottom half is a deep transparent plastic tank that acts as an ideal viewing platform, free from any pesky wires in the way. It's a great environment in which to add loads of bedding.

There's also the option to close off the top part of the cage by pulling up the long ladder. After that, all you need to do is pull out the transparent tank, via the integrated handle, to clean it. 

You can quickly empty old bedding, wash, add new bedding and put it back in no time at all. Your hamster can even stay tucked inside the top compartment while you clean the rest, making sourcing a hamster nanny obsolete.

The top half of the cage is a dedicated play area and comes equipped with the accessories. The wire cage has a large front door for easy access to the whole top floor, providing you with easy access to all areas of the cage.

Savic Geneva Modern Hamster Cage: User reviews

For pet owners who praise the Geneva, the hamster cage offers a convenient and transparent viewing area to keep a close eye on your furry friend. Having them upstairs while you clean also goes down well with hamster owners who like to keep their pocket pal close by.

A few users have reported replacing the noisy wheel accessory for a silent spinner, but the water bottle doesn't leak over your friend's bedding, which can be a common problem in cages. 

All in all, most buyers love the stylish design, but there is some disagreement about whether or not the cage is suitable for larger hamsters. Our advice would be to check the measurements before you buy and consider your hamster's breed ahead of purchase.

Should you buy the Savic Geneva Modern Hamster Cage?

If you're a first-time dwarf hamster owner looking for a convenient and stylish habitat for your furry friend, the Savic Geneva Modern Hamster Cage should be considered. There are some great design choices, which make cleaning a breeze.

The key drawback here is size. The cage isn't well suited for multiple hamsters if you were to think about welcoming in a new hamster friend, particularly larger breeds. Hamster enthusiasts may find themselves upgrading to a larger cage in the near future in order to pack in more toys. If your hamster is on the smaller side, however, they might just be in for a modern mansion.

Tired of the traditional tacky plastic hamster cage? The Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage offers a sophisticated alternative.

Made from sustainable wood, its simple design is certainly a stunner. For modern design lovers who love a spot of boho chic, it'll pair perfectly with your rattan chair.

Where traditional hamster cages employ both plastic and metal, this stylish habitat is also one of the best hamster cages around for its eco-sensibilities. 

Looks aside, however, does the Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage offer everything your hammy needs to enjoy their best life?

If you're not sure whether swapping plastic for wood is the best choice for your little critter, we'll be detailing how the Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage performs in the durability stakes, including an in-depth look into its features and user reviews. 

Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage: Features

Let's dig into the product's eco credentials. From the outset, Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage's choice of wood makes it different from other hamster cages on the market.

It's made from all natural, sustainable, liquid-resistant wood that is sourced from forests managed in a responsible way. However, it should be noted that the product does feature plastic, as well as a robust wire net cage. It's definitely a better option for eco pet parents then most products out there, but is not 100% eco-friendly.

The cage itself is fairly robust. Measuring 22.75 x 12.25 x 2.6-inches, it's a decent size for all hamster breeds, with plenty of space for a dwarf breed. The base is deep enough to contain ample bedding for digging and burrowing. While, the cage design conveniently allows for the base to be pulled out, emptied, cleaned and replaced quickly.

There's really one obvious drawback here. While the wooden design looks fantastic, as a hamster's favorite chew snack, expect some gradual damage to the interior of the cage. The plastic base is also not the thickest so some hamsters who are liable to plan their next great escape may be prone to chewing it too. 

For the price, Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage does offer some very nice extras. It comes equipped with a wooden hamster hide-out and has three wood platforms and ladders.

Additional accessories include a 5.5-inch plastic exercise wheel, plastic water bottle and a plastic food dish. There are no connecting rings here so you won’t be able to expand the cage easily but there are two doors – one top, one on the side – to give easy access to your furry friend.

If you're not someone who enjoys DIY, it's worth noting that the cage does not come pre-built and must be assembled. For those who enjoy dabbling in a spot of crafts, however, the wood does present an opportunity.

If the color is too subtle for your tastes, you could always opt to paint it with non-toxic pet-safe paint to give it an extra edge in the style department. 

Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage: User reviews

If you're worried about the durability of this product but love its style, some users have devised their own way to stop hamsters chewing the wood. Applying thin aluminium strips cut to size have been able to prevent many mini escape artists chewing their way out. 

Many pet owners praise the cage's design, as well as how easy it is to clean the cage, particularly when the material choice is taken into account.

However, users have found the cage to be expensive, especially when unsure if their hamster will be liable to chew it. If that sounds like you, consider another pick from our best hamster cages guide instead. The Savic Geneva Modern Hamster Cage also features a stylish modern design but is not made from wood. 

Should you buy the Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage?

If your hammy is not the chewing type and prefers to lounge around in style and comfort instead, then the Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster Cage is a suitably stylish habitat.

It's certainly not designed for hamsters who love nothing more than gnawing their way through chew toys, but it does offer an exciting alternative to pet parents who fancy building or potentially customizing their own hammy home. 

He may not quite be the next Picasso, but Pip the painting hamster has been inspiring pet owners to pick up a brush and take to the canvas.

The adorable little critter and enterprising owner Kaylie Biniecki first started their own art business, BinieckiBranded, on Etsy in late 2020.

The creative hammy's first masterpiece was a Halloween-themed piece painted on a black canvas featuring spooky florescent colors, as posted as a video to TikTok. 

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Showing the full creative process, Pip can be seen running through blobs of non-toxic, pet friendly paint and onto the canvas that creates a unique piece of art each time. His work is then signed and listed on the shop for his fans to buy.

Since his first sale, the sky has been the limit with the creative critter going on to create custom orders, creating art using different color schemes and even offering his loyal followers the chance to enjoy a mystery painting or tip the artist, if you'd like. 

You can of course simply explore the range of mini canvases to create your own hamster art gallery at home and buyers just can't enough.

"I bought a painting after seeing Pip’s work on TikTok and I’m so thrilled to display it in my apartment this summer!" wrote one happy customer. 

"It brought me such joy to know Pip made my painting with his little feet. The package included a personalized note with some candy which were a nice surprise. Bring yourself some happiness and order yourself a Pip painting :)"

Other followers have chosen to follow the artist's lead and create hamster art with their own furry friend at home.

TikTok user @verysensitivegirlie posted her hamster drawing inspiration from Pip to create their very own masterpiece. 

Rather than using the blob and walk technique, however, this savvy hamster uses his own methods. 

As demonstrated by the creative duo, you can also make your very own pet painting by applying the non-toxic paint to the canvas yourself in any pattern you like, then pop it into a transparent zip-up bag. 

Then, have your furkid trot across and you've got yourself a keepsake or your first art masterpiece to set up your very own hamster art shop.

Of course, once the hard work is done, be sure to let your little artists rest and enjoy a spot of downtime with their favorite hamster toys. 

Feeling inspired? You can check out Pip the painting hamster on TikTok at @pipspaintings, or visit their shop over on Etsy and Instagram.  

If you’ve noticed that your hamster is barely moving and sleeping excessively, you might wonder, ‘Can hamsters hibernate?’

While they don’t ‘hibernate’ in the traditional sense, they can experience a similar condition called torpor, which can last anywhere from a few hours to several days. When your hamster gets too cold or faces a scarce food supply, they might enter this state to conserve energy and survive.

To ensure your hamster stays happy and healthy, you’ll need to keep their environment between 65-75°F (18–24°C), invest in one of the best hamster cages, and feed them an appropriate diet. To help you better understand torpor, we’ve consulted expert vets Dr. Elizabeth Racine and Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to answer your frequently asked questions, including the symptoms, causes, and when to seek medical help.

Do hamsters hibernate?

Hibernation is a prolonged period of limited activity that occurs in certain species of animals as a response to low temperatures and limited food supplies. During hibernation the body’s metabolic processes slow down, reducing energy expenditure and causing the animal to enter a state similar to a deep sleep.

For animal species that are true hibernators, this period allows them to survive through the harsh winter conditions by reducing their bodies’ needs for food and water intake. Most wild hamster species live in regions that do not have particularly harsh winters, so they do not naturally hibernate.

However, many species that sleep in cold conditions are not experiencing true hibernation. Instead, animals like hamsters experience a process called torpor. Torpor is a prolonged response to low temperatures similar to hibernation, but typically lasts for shorter periods of time.

If your hamster is sleeping for hours or days at a time, particularly in colder temperatures, then he is most likely experiencing torpor. Because torpor and hibernation are similar processes, some experts will use these terms interchangeably.

When do hamsters hibernate?

To help you determine whether or not your hamster is in a state of torpor, you’ll first need to take a close look at his environment. The biggest factor contributing to hibernation behavior in hamsters is temperature. The ideal temperature for hamsters is about 65-75°F (18–24°C).

Below this range, your hamster may become too cold and may enter torpor. Be sure to keep your hamster’s cage in a warm – but not hot! – room and provide plenty of fresh, dry bedding. Your hamster should also be kept in a well-ventilated area, but be careful to avoid cold drafts from windows or air conditioning units which may also make the environmental temperature too cold for your hamster.

In addition to temperature, other factors such as food supply and the daily cycle of light and darkness in your hamster’s environment can also affect torpor behaviors. One study found that hamsters with a restricted food supply were more likely to experience deep torpor, while those with ample food stores experienced shorter bouts of torpor and generally maintained higher body temperatures.

Check out our guide to what can hamsters eat for a breakdown of suitable foods and if you suspect your hamster has entered torpor, addressing these environmental factors may help him return to his normal active state.

How can you tell if your hamster is hibernating?

Many pet owners worry that their hamster is severely ill when they find the animal in a state of torpor. Admittedly, if you have never seen this behavior before the symptoms can be alarming. Hamsters in torpor often act lethargic, listless, or excessively sleepy. The hamster may even be completely limp if they are in a particularly deep state of torpor. The hamster’s body will often feel cool to the touch, especially in the extremities such as the limbs, feet, and tail. Occasionally, you may notice the hamster shaking or shivering as it goes into or comes out of the state of torpor.

In most cases, a hamster in torpor can be roused with stimulation, such as gentle handling or rubbing, or by increasing the temperature in the environment. However, the hamster may fall asleep again if left undisturbed, particularly if the environmental temperature is still too cold. While in this state of torpor the hamster will have minimal activity, may not eat or drink, and may urinate and defecate less than usual.

When to see a vet

If you suspect your hamster is in a state of torpor, you may be able to resolve the issue by increasing the temperature and ensuring adequate access to food. Never apply heat to your hamster directly, such as with a heating pad or hair dryer, as this can easily cause severe burns. Instead, move your hamster’s cage to a warm dry area or hold your hamster inside your shirt against your skin where he will be able to benefit from your body heat. Once your hamster is more active, offer him some food. If your hamster is not easily roused with stimulation and a warmer temperature, seek veterinary care. Your vet may treat your hamster with fluids or medication, if necessary. He or she can also help you troubleshoot your husbandry to prevent future episodes of torpor.

Although torpor occurs as a natural response to cold temperature, it is not something your hamster should be experiencing under ideal husbandry conditions. If your hamster is hibernating, this is a sign that you may need to reassess his diet and housing conditions to ensure all his or her needs are being met!

Is my hamster hibernating or dead?

Here’s how to check if your hamster is still alive:

• Watch them closely for several minutes to see if they are breathing. A hamster in torpor may only take a breath once every couple of minutes.
• Hold a mirror in front of their nose to see if it fogs
• Feel their chest for a heartbeat, just behind their elbow. You will need to feel for a couple of minutes to be sure, as their heartbeat will be slower than usual, and it can be tricky to locate sometimes
• Gently pull on their paws to see if they move in response

Dr. MacMillan says: “If the room your hamster is kept in is over 68°F, then it is unlikely that your hamster is in torpor unless their cage is situated in a cold zone or near a draughty open window. Equally, a good supply of food and long periods of bright lighting during their day mean that torpor is unlikely. So, if all these criteria are met and your hamster is not rousing, then they may have passed away. They will usually feel cold, and their body will feel stiff. A hamster in torpor will also feel cooler to the touch than normal but should still be quite floppy.”

Do wild hamsters hibernate?

Interestingly, not all species of hamster display the same types of hibernation behavior. In the wild, European hamsters are true hibernators and will spend the winter in prolonged periods of hibernation. Dwarf hamsters are less likely to hibernate. Syrian hamsters are permissive or facultative hibernators, meaning that they do not hibernate under typical conditions but they are capable of hibernating if environmental conditions require it.

Female hamsters also tend to hibernate for shorter periods of time than male hamsters do. Knowing the typical hibernation patterns for your hamster’s breed and sex can help you identify periods of torpor or hibernation at home. For a breakdown on the different hamster breeds and their various characteristics, check out our guide where we cover five hamster breeds in a little more depth.

Looking for more hamster advice? You might want to read: eight common hamster illnesses and how long do hamsters live?

Have you considered getting a hamster? Well, there are a few different hamster breeds out there to choose from, but which one is right for you? Hamsters make great pets, they are small and don’t take up too much space, and they’re super cute and cuddly. However, every hamster has different personality traits and characteristics, so it’s good to know the facts before making one an addition to your family.

While you may have a hamster type in mind, there are many things to consider when choosing the right breed of hamster for you. Things to consider include how much maintenance they require, whether or not they are sociable if you would like to have more than one pet hamster, life expectancy, and their overall behaviors.

To help you decide which hamster breed is right for you, we’ve rounded up the five most common domestic hamster breeds and listed their common traits.

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5 most popular hamster breeds...

1. Syrian Hamster

Syrian Hamsters are the most popular hamster breed to keep as pets. They are also referred to as Teddy Bear Hamsters and generally have a very friendly and loving disposition. These hamsters are said to build a strong bond with their owners and they’re very easy to handle making them the ideal choice of pet for young children.

The Syrian Hamster is a little larger than other hamsters, growing to about 7 inches in length. And they tend to be more relaxed than other breeds, which makes them easy to hold and pet. While they are loving to their owners, they are not a sociable breed, and therefore should be kept alone otherwise they will fight with other hamsters.

This hamster breed is mostly nocturnal, so they won’t be very active in the day time, which might not appeal to you if you’d prefer a pet that you can play with more frequently. A Syrian Hamster can live to around four years old, but their average lifespan is usually 2-3 years.

2. Chinese Hamster

Chinese Hamsters are much smaller than Syrian Hamsters, at around 3-4 inches in length. They are more mouse-like, quicker on their feet and much more playful than other hamster breeds. So if you want a pet that you can engage and play with, then a Chinese hamster may appeal to you.

They do require lots of attention and they can turn destructive when bored. In this sense they are slightly higher maintenance because you’ll need to keep them engaged and happy as much as possible, otherwise they may chew through absolutely anything.

On the whole, this hamster breed is friendly and loving when given the attention they need, and they’ll enjoy being held and petted without nibbling at you. You can house more than one Chinese Hamster together, but you’ll need to slowly introduce them to one another to ensure they like each other before committing them to the same cage. There’s no guarantee on this, so be prepared if you're planning on owning two or more of these furballs.

3. Dwarf Campbell Russian Hamster

The clue is in the name with all dwarf hamsters, in that they are teeny tiny and look just like a little field mouse. A Dwarf Campbell has a shorter lifespan of around 1.5-2 years and they are much more timid than other hamster breeds. They are mostly nocturnal; however, they do love to be sociable and when getting attention from you they will stay awake to lap it up.

You’ll need to make a Dwarf Campbell Hamster feel right at home, with a warm and safe place to sleep, and perhaps some accessories for them to hide in. Due to their timid nature, Dwarf Campbells aren’t suitable pets for young children but instead would prefer an owner of a calmer disposition who has the time to give them attention when they need it.

4. Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamster

Another of the dwarf hamster breeds, the Winter White Russian Hamster, also known as the Siberian Hamster or Djungarian Hamster are half the size of Syrian hamsters and come from colder climates.

This hamster breed usually has a brown or grey coat despite its name, but their coats turn white in winter as a natural defence from predators. They look fairly similar to Dwarf Campbell Hamsters, but White Russian’s have furrier feet which is how you can tell them apart.

Overall, this type of hamster is very sweet and would be a suitable pet for a family, but adult supervision is recommended when handling a Winter White Russian as they can be very quick on their feet and may dash off and hide if they get startled.

They are sociable animals and would enjoy the company of another hamster of the same sex, but ensure they have a spacious house to give them their own room to relax. It is recommended to keep them in a quiet spot but to provide plenty of attention and toys so that they get enough stimulation throughout the day.

As they are very small, regular hamster cages may not be suitable as they can easily squeeze through the gaps, so you may also want to consider a tank instead for housing them.

5. Dwarf Roborovski Hamster

The Roborovki Hamster is super sociable but not one to be tamed! This hamster breed enjoys spending time with other hamsters of its own kind, but they dislike sharing, so if you’re thinking of getting multiple, they’ll need plenty of room to roam and their own food, toys, and water.  

They are the fastest of the Dwarf hamster breeds, Roborovki hamsters don’t particularly like being handled, so if you want a pet you can cuddle, then you may be more suited to a Chinese or White Russian Hamster. However, if you want a pet that will amuse you, then the Roborovski hamster won’t disappoint. If you kit them out with a large tank and plenty of toys, you can spend hours watching bolt around and tire themselves out.

Overall, this hamster breed is fairly low maintenance and they have an average lifespan of around 2.5-3 years.  

Choosing the right hamster breed for you…

Whichever hamster breed you prefer, all of them make wonderful furry friends. The key to getting any pet is to do your research and be prepared before bringing them home. Make sure you have enough space, the right accessories and enough time and love to give to them.

In this guide, we answer, 'How long do hamsters live?'