Is there a lull in conversation at the barn? Need something to break the ice at a competition? Or, perhaps a horse-loving friend or colleague could do with a giggle (or a groan?). Sounds like you need some hilarious equine jokes in your life.

Horses' joy-inspiring capabilities know no bounds. From offering a friendly whinny to pulling funny faces, it’s as if they know they’re making us smile.

On the flip side, as any horse owner will tell you, they can find ways to be intensely frustrating. They break things, self-inflict injuries in the most creative ways and regularly come in from the pasture wearing fewer shoes than they went out with, which makes you wonder: “why do horses wear shoes in the first place?”

With that in mind, it’s easy to see why horse folk need a sense of humor and, thankfully, there’s no shortage of horse-related humor and pony puns in the world. So, what are the best equine jokes? Here’s a list of our favorites. Be warned, though – some of these equine jokes are more likely to elicit an eyeroll than a guffaw!

Best equine jokes

1. A horse walks into a bar...

“Ouch!” says the horse.

2. A horse walks into a bar...

“Hey,” says the barman.

“You read my mind,” replies the horse.

3. A couple of racehorses were chatting in a barn...

One starts to brag about his track record. “In my last 15 races, I’ve won eight!”

“Not bad,” concedes the other. “But get this. In the last 27 races, I’ve won 19!”

At this point, a greyhound who’d been sitting and quietly listening pipes up: “I don’t mean to boast, but in my last 70 races, I’ve won 68 of them.”

The horses’ mouths drop open; they are clearly amazed. “Wow!” says the first one, “a talking dog!”

4. What’s a horse’s favorite wine?

Chardon-neigh!

5. A man and his talking pony have a booth at the county fair...

A young girl walks up to the booth and pays the man a quarter to hear the pony speak.

“Hi, what’s your name?” she asks the pony.

The pony says nothing.

“Excuse me, I asked you for your name,” repeats the girl.

Still, the pony is silent.

“HELLO!” she says, frustrated, “Can you understand me?”

The pony doesn’t reply.

“You’re a liar. This pony can’t speak at all!” says the girl to the man.

“Oh, he can speak alright,” he replies, “but right now, he’s just a little hoarse.”

6. What did the mare say when her foal came back after curfew?

“It’s pasture bedtime!”

7. Why do cowboys ride horses?

Because they’re too heavy to carry.

8. A cowboy buys a horse from a pastor...

Before he takes the horse away, the pastor explains: “when you want him to go, you gotta shout ‘thank God!’, and when you want him to stop, you gotta yell, ‘hallelujah!’

The cowboy thanks the pastor and rides off. Things are going well until the horse, spooked by a rattlesnake, takes off towards a cliff at speed.

For the life of him, the cowboy can’t remember how to get the horse to stop. “Amen!” he shouts, “Hosanna! Err, hallelujah!”

The horse grinds to a halt just in the nick of time. Relieved, the cowboy wipes the sweat from his brow. “Phew!” he says, “thank God!”

9. What’s a horse’s favorite store?

Barnes & Noble!

10. I but a bet on a horse to come in at 10 to 1, and it did!

Unfortunately, all the others came in at 12.30.

11. When does a horse talk?

Whinny wants to!

12. Have you heard the one about the runaway horse?

It’s a terrible tale of WHOA!

13. A jockey buys the cheapest racehorse he could find...

He’s walking it down the road when he bumps into a friend.

“What are you planning on doing with that nag?” says the friend.

“Race it,” replies the jockey.

“Well, by the looks of it,” laughs his friend, “you’ll probably win!”

14. What do you give a sick horse?

Cough stirrup!

15. What’s the hardest thing about learning to horseback ride?

The ground!

16. Why do you never see horses using Android phones?

They prefer Apples!

17. Where do equestrian newlyweds stay?

The bridle suite!

18. Why did the man stand behind the horse?

He was hoping to get a kick out of it!

19. A horse walks into a movie theater and takes his seat...

The woman next to him asks: “Excuse me, are you a horse?”

“Why yes, I am,” the horse replies.

“I don’t mean to be rude,” the woman continues, “but what on earth are you doing here?”

The horse says: “I really liked the book.”

20. One of my friends is half horse...

He’s the life of the party – always the centaur of attention!

Read next: Hilarious animal jokes

It can be tempting to make homemade fly spray for horses – it's relatively quick to do, it's easy to find recipes, and can offer savings in comparison to picking up a commercial product.

However, is it safe to do so, and do homemade fly sprays even work to keep flies off from horses? Or is it better to use a pre-manufactured fly spray for horses? Keep reading to find out.

How to make homemade fly spray for horses

Homemade fly spray recipes are typically quite simple. Key components include essential oils, dish soap, and vinegar, but vary from recipe to recipe. Simple recipes are relatively cheap to make, particularly in bulk, so can offer savings over purchasing commercial products designed for horses.

PetsRadar has not tested any of the following recipes and recommend doing a small patch test on your horse. PetsRadar cannot be held responsible for any allergic or other reactions resulting from using these recipes. Readers use these recipes at their own risk.

Recipe 1

This simple recipe from KBIS features only three ingredients, and can be mixed up quickly.

Ingredients:

• 1 tbsp eucalyptus oil (you can also substitute this for other essential oils such as citronella)
• 2 cups of apple cider vinegar
• 1 cup of water

Method:

1. Measure out the ingredients and add to a bottle.
2. Shake well to mix.

Recipe 2

This recipe from a Horse & Hound reader features a mix of ingredients, including popular natural insect repellent citronella.

Ingredients:

• 300ml citronella oil
• 25ml lavender oil
• 4tbsp vinegar
• 6tbsp Dettol
• 2 cups of cold strong tea
• water

Method:

1. Measure out the into a jug and mix well.
2. Pour the mixture into a 2 litre bottle. Top up with water until the bottle is full, and mix again.
3. Decant the mixture into a spray bottle for easy application.

Recipe 3

This recipe from SaddleBox features a variety of essential oils, so will smell more pleasant but may be overpowering for some.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup white vinegar
• 2 cups water
• 1/2 cup spray-on sunscreen
• 50 drops citronella oil
• 25 drops lemongrass essential oil
• 25 drops peppermint essential oil
• 20 drops lavender essential oil
• 2 tbsp Dr Bronner’s liquid soap

Method:

1. Add all the ingredients into a 32oz spray bottle.
2. Shake well to mix.
3. Shake well before each use to ensure the ingredients are still mixed.

Does homemade fly spray for horses actually work?

The two biggest considerations to weigh up when it comes to homemade fly spray are whether it will work, and if it is safe to use on your horse.

"The main issue with homemade fly sprays is that they haven't been tested for efficacy," says Dr Rebecca MacMillan. "We have anecdotal evidence, or hearsay, that these homemade recipes will work. So, it may be a case of trial and error as to whether they are successful for you and your horse."

Whilst many of the recipes are rooted in using natural ingredients, that doesn't always mean they are safe.

"Some horses may react to having things like essential oils applied to them, so it is best to start with a small patch test first if you choose to use them," advises Dr MacMillan. "Essential oils can be toxic in large amounts, so while bugs might not like the smell, it's important to go steady with them on your horse.

"I would also be careful about using cleaning products or dish soaps on your horse, as these are likely to be too harsh on their skin," she cautions.

Homemade fly spray or commercial ones: What's best?

There are many reasons why you might be intrigued by the possibility of making homemade fly spray, is it for the best when there are so many commercial fly spray products available to purchase?

"Natural products don't always mean better, and many homemade formulations only act as mild repellents," cautions Dr MacMillan. "Choosing a commercial product that not only repels the flies but kills them with insecticidal ingredients is usually best.

"I would advise owners to use a commercial fly spray specifically designed for horses. This will give you safe and accurate dosing guidelines, as well as being pre-formulated so that you don't have to make up any liquids accurately yourself," explains Dr MacMillan. "Always speak to your vet for recommendations if you are unsure."

Can you use human fly spray on horses?

Human fly spray can seem like a cheaper and effective alternative to equine products, particularly as many contain the insect repellent DEET. However, this doesn't mean they are appropriate to use on horses.

"I wouldn't recommend using human bug repellents on your horse," advises Dr MacMillan. "Human DEET products have not been formulated with horses in mind. While horses can tolerate DEET, there is always the potential for toxicity, especially if products are applied, or accidentally ingested, in large amounts.

"It is best to use a horse-specific spray and just take care how you use it. DEET is a strong solvent, so it can also dissolve materials such as leather tack," cautions Dr MacMillan.

Horses are something of a specialist pet – a great deal of knowledge and effort goes into keeping them. However, that’s not to say you can’t sound like an expert in all things equine by boning up on a few horse facts!

Already clued up on why horses wear shoes? Aware of the difference between a horse and a pony? Know how many horse colors there are? Sounds like you’ve sussed entry-level horse facts and are ready for something more advanced. Here are 10 horse facts that would help you blend in at any barn.

Interesting horse facts

1. Horses produce approximately 10 gallons of saliva daily

A pretty gross horse fact straight off the bat – but it’s totally true!

So, why so much saliva? Well, it acts as a natural buffer to stomach acid. The pH value in the horse’s stomach varies region by region, but in the lower third it can be as low as 1 or 2, which is very acidic. Saliva contains bicarbonate, which helps neutralize the acidic environment and guards against stomach ulcers.

Unlike humans, horses only produce saliva when chewing – around 1ml for every chew. This means it’s important they eat little and often, and predominantly a diet of fibre. These are two of the golden rules of feeding horses!

2. The human ear has three muscles that move the ear, but equine ears have 10

Equine ears are more sensitive than ours. They can hear sounds up to four kilometers away and also perceive higher frequencies of sound than we can.

Ears are also integral to equine expression, and you can tell much about what a horse is thinking by looking at his ears. For example, a horse with his ears forward is attentive, alert or startled. Ears pointing to the side or tilted slightly back indicate a content or relaxed horse, while ears flat back mean a horse feels uncomfortable or under threat.

3. Horses can sleep standing up...

...thanks to a locking system that evolved in their legs. Horses can only achieve REM sleep when lying down, though. In a herd of horses, you’ll often see one member standing over his fieldmates while they sleep.

Horses don’t need a great deal of sleep. They spent four to five hours out of 24 sleeping, but only need 30 minutes of REM sleep while lying down.

4. Horses cannot vomit...

...thanks to a band of ultra-strong muscles that surround the oesophagus.

The opening of the stomach, called the cardiac sphincter, closes after food is pushed into it, acting like a one-way shut-off.

When horses are unwell, especially with colic, their inability to vomit means the stomach is at risk of rupture. Horses are often tubed when colic occurs to relieve any build-up of gas or liquid.

5. Horses have the biggest eyes of all land mammals

They also have a third eyelid situated inside the eye for protection, which closes diagonally.

6. Every horse has a frog in its hoof

Well, not an actual frog, but it’s the name given to the V-shaped structure on the underside of the hoof. While the hoof wall is not sensitive, the frog is, and farriers must be careful when trimming it.

The frog provides shock absorption when the horse's foot comes into contact with the ground.

7. The equine brain weighs approximately one-and-a-half pounds

That’s roughly half the weight of the human brain!

The horse’s frontal lobe, the part of the brain responsible for decision making, is relatively much smaller than a human’s, too.

8. The equine heart weights around nine pounds

A thoroughbred horse’s powerful heart pumps some 35 liters of blood around the body per minute, compare with five in humans.

The horse’s heartbeat at rest is just 30 beats per minute, but it can reach as high as 240 at full gallop. Racehorses like Secretariat had much larger hearts than average, which boosted their athletic capabilities.

9. The average horse has a top speed of 20–30mph

However, the fastest speed ever recorded over two furlongs was set by a racehorse called Winning Brew. She achieve 43.71mph at the Penn National Racecourse, Pennsylvania, on 14 May 2008.

10. And finally, horses can only breathe through their noses

Healthy adult horses breathe around eight to 12 times per minute at rest. During moderately strenuous exercise, a horse will breathe up to 150 times per minute.

Read next: Interesting dog facts and interesting cat facts

There’s pretty much no limit to the horse colors you’ll see in the equine world, as well as huge variety of coat patterns that make endless combinations possible.

Equine coat color is determined by genetics. In very simple terms, two base coat pigments result in a chestnut coat (a reddish brown color) and black. These two colours commonly interact to produce another base color, a dark brown known as bay. The variation we see in horse colors is caused by additional genes, which modify and enhance the coat color.

If you’ve ever wondered how to identify horse colors, here’s our helpful guide to the many different variations in the equine world.

Solid horse colors

Black

This one is pretty straightforward. While different genes interact with the black pigment to create other colors and patterns, there aren’t any named variations of this color as there are with other coats.

Black horses can have white markings on their legs and faces, but generally nowhere else. They have black manes and tails, but can have white or striped hooves.

Chestnut

Chestnut horses can also be called sorrel. They have a reddish brown coat in various shades and can have white leg and facial markings.

Bay

The bay equine coat color is similar to chestnut, but bays have black points, meaning black markings on their legs and black manes and tails. They can also have white face and leg markings.

Gray

Often, grays look white. There is such a thing as a truly white horse, but this is rare.

Grays might have darker gray legs, ears and dark skin on the muzzle.

Buckskin

Buckskins have a coat that varies in color from pale cream to a yellowy cream, gold or even as dark as chocolate with a mane and tail usually significantly darker than the coat color, often black. Buckskins can have black or dark points and white leg and face markings.

Palamino

Palaminos often have the look of Barbie’s dream horse! Like buckskins, their coats can be pale cream to golden, a reddish cream or even a deeper chocolate (a sooty palamino), but their manes and tails are always paler, or flaxen. They can have white markings on their face and legs.

Cremello

Cremellos have an all-over creamy coat. They have pink skin, which can make them susceptible to sunburn, and frequently have blue eyes. A cremello will not have any black points.

Perlino

A perlino has a similar look to the cremello, also with pink skin and commonly blue eyes. However, they have a reddish tinge to the mane and tail, sometimes the coat too.

Dun horse colors

Duns are frequently confused with buckskin due to their similar coat colors. However, duns have a little extra something special – primitive markings called dun factors. These include a dorsal stripe (a dark line running along the spine to the top of the tail, or dock), a darker colored mane and tail and sometimes horizontal stripes on the legs that look like zebra stripes.

Here’s a detailed look at some dun variations...

Blue dun (Grulla)

A mouse coloured gray or silver color with dun factors.

Red dun

Pale yellow or tan coat with a chestnut hue and dun factor markings.

Spotted horse colors

Several horse breeds have spotted coats, such as Appaloosa, Knabstrupper or the British Spotted Pony. Spotted coat patterns come in a number of variations, which include...

Leopard spot

A white base with spots of various sizes and colors covering the body.

Few spot leopard

A white body, sometimes with dark points and sparse spotting, usually concentrated on the face, legs, ‘armpits’, neck and chest.

Blanket spot

A dark base coat and a ‘blanket’ of white over the usually the hindquarters, but can extend over the whole back. The blanket feature spots of the same color as the base coat.

Snowflake

White spots over a dark body.

Pinto/Paint horse colors

Pinto or paint horses have large patches of white over any underlying coat color. There are several pattern variations...

Tobiano

A tobiano commonly has a solid head color (though he may have white facial markings), white legs and a white zone across the back between the withers (base of neck) and dock. The markings are generally rounded in shape.

Overo (frame)

The overo pattern is also known as frame. A white face and patches with sharp edges in a horizontal pattern characterize overo, and sometimes the markings can be subtle, so the horse is not instantly recognizable as a pinto. Overos can have blue eyes.

Sabino

Sometimes called a sabino roan, this pattern features white stockings and white splashes higher up the leg, belly and flanks. The edges of the markings can look blurred into the darker equine coat color. This pattern is often seen in Clydesdales.

Splash white

The rarest pinto color, splashed whites look as if they are a solid color horse dipped in white pain. They often have white faces and white stockings, but the white can extend high up the body.

Roan horse colors

A roan has white hairs intermixed into their darker color, which does not lighten with age as is often seen in grays. There may be color variation between a roan horse’s summer and winter coats. They can have either a solid-colored or much darker head.

Variations of roan include...

Red roan

Sometimes called strawberry roan, this label describes a horse with a chestnut base coat featuring roaning.

Bay roan

A bay base coat, including the characteristic black mane and tail and legs, with roaning throughout.

Blue roan

A black base coat color with white hairs dispersed throughout.

Keeping flies off horses is a worry that plagues many horse owners in the warmer months. No horse enjoys being bothered by flies, and while they are mostly a nuisance, they can also present health risks. It’s important to be aware of these risks, and the best strategies to protect your horse from flies.

There are plenty of ways to do this, from gear such as the best fly sheets and fly masks to products like the best fly repellent sprays and creams, but what’s right for you and your horse?

Most owners find a combination of strategies helpful – keep reading to find out more about each one to decide what would best suit you.

How to keep flies off horses

There are plenty of different ways to keep flies off horses, with pros and cons to each. Here are the six best strategies:

1. Fly spray

Fly spray, also known as fly repellent, is an insect spray that can be applied to the horse’s body to deter flies from landing on them. The best fly sprays for horses are the ones designed for them; it’s best not to use insecticides that haven’t been developed with horses in mind, as these may contain irritants. Fly sprays are the most popular choice for to keep flies off horses.

Advantages of fly sprays

✅ they are quick and easy to apply
✅ they can be cheap to purchase
✅ there are many available, and the variety of formulas and ingredients means you can find one that will work for your horse and environment with the type of flies present

Disadvantages of fly sprays

❌ they can carry a strong smell and the ingredients can be irritating for horses and owners sensitive skin
❌ some will wear off during the day, so top-ups may be required, particularly on hot days if your horse is sweating
❌ some horses don’t like the sensation of being sprayed or misted either. It’s possible to teach your horse to stand for fly spray, but this can be a lengthy process until they are completely comfortable, and even then, they may be reluctant to have certain parts of their body sprayed, such as their face or under their belly.

2. Fly gels and creams

A great alternative to fly sprays, fly gels or creams are applied by hand or sponge to the horse’s body.

Advantages of fly gels and creams

✅ they are good for horse’s who are ticklish or dislike fly spray being applied
✅ they are great for targeted application, such as to the face or between the legs
✅ the consistency of the product often means it has a longer adherence, so can last the whole day – however, reapplication may be required, as with fly spray, when it’s hot
✅ some products are colored so it’s easy to see where they’ve been applied

Disadvantages of fly gels and creams

❌ they can be more expensive
❌ they are easy to over-apply as your horse doesn’t need to be covered in the same way as fly spray for the same level of protection
❌ they can be time consuming and harder to apply if you don’t opt for a roll-on or sponge-on option

3. Fly sheets

Fly sheets are lightweight, often mesh, blankets worn by horses to protect their body from flies. This piece of gear is often a staple in a horse’s wardrobe, and advances in design and technology means that the best fly sheets for horses often come with more features than simple fly protection.

Advantages of fly sheets

✅ they provide all-day protection that isn’t going anywhere
✅ they don’t contain chemicals or irritants
✅ white fly sheets can help reflect heat
✅ they can offer various levels of protection as required – those designed for sweet itch offer full body protection, including belly bands and neck covers that can even go over the ears
✅ they also offer UV protection

Disadvantages of fly sheets

❌ it’s important to ensure the correct fit to prevent any rubbing or sores, particularly on sensitive horses
❌ they are not comfortable for horses to wear in the rain, although you can purchase waterproof fly sheets for changeable weather

4. Fly masks

Fly masks are worn to protect the horse’s face. They come in a variety of styles and coverage options so you can select the best fly mask for your horse. The primary goal is to offer eye protection, as flies like to congregate around the eye.

Advantages of fly masks

✅ many now also offer UV protection, which is a must-have for horse owners concerned about eye health or have horses prone to uveitis
✅ you can get masks with or without ear covers and nose covers to suit your horse
✅ you can get masks that are pull-on or secured with Velcro that will help with putting on and taking off more easily
✅ Lycra style masks can be worn under halters and muzzles

Disadvantages of fly masks

❌ fly masks need to be properly fitted, or they could rub or irritate your horse
❌ some horses like to remove them

5. Fly boots

Fly boots protect the lower leg from fly irritation. They can be a great option if your horse stomps a lot when irritated by flies, as repetitive stomping can strain the legs.

It’s important that these are fitted correctly so they don’t rub or slip during wear, and monitor use on hot days where the leg could become overheated. The best fly boots for horses are often made with ventilated or breathable materials, opposed to protective materials like brushing boots made for exercise.

6. Things for the stable

Stables can become a hub of insect activity, but this can be mitigated to make both yours and your horse’s time in the stables more comfortable.

Fly traps and sticky paper

These catch flies, and need to be disposed of and replaced semi-regularly. When selecting a fly trap to go in a stable, only use a sticky or baited trap (like this one on Amazon), not an electric trap, and make sure it’s hung safely away from the horse.

Fans

Flies struggle to land in moving air, so a breeze can help to deter them, as well as having the added bonus of keeping you and your horse cool! You can buy rechargeable ones that clip up in stables that can also be used while transporting (like this one).

Mesh screens or fringe curtains

Where possible, put up fringe curtains or mesh screens (like this one on Amazon) on windows and doors. This blocks flies from entering areas, while still allowing for airflow. Fringe curtains are an option for stable doors if your horse is particularly bothered by flies, as it allows them to still look out; however, they must be trained and desensitised to use these safely.

Stable management shouldn’t be overlooked when it comes to controlling fly populations. Muck out daily or twice daily, depending on how much time your horse spends stabled, to remove manure and wet bedding. Position your muck heap away from your stables, as flies breed in manure. You should also use covered bins to store feed and clean water buckets or troughs regularly to avoid attracting insects.

Why it's important to keep flies off horses

Whilst in most cases, flies are just irritating pests, they can also cause health problems.

There are two main categories of flies: biting flies and non-biting flies. Biting flies feed on animal blood, while non-biting flies feed on bodily secretions, such as saliva, tears or mucus.

“Flies, gnats, mosquitoes, and other biting insects are more than just annoying for your horses; they can cause and carry many diseases, some of which can be very serious or even fatal,” says vet Dr Lisa Coder.

1. Potomac horse fever

“If your horse lives near water, several insects such as mayflies, caddisflies, and damselflies can carry potomac horse fever,” says Dr Coder. “This disease can cause colic, abortions in pregnant mares, and diarrhea, which, if left untreated, may be fatal.”

2. Pigeon fever

“Another serious disease that can be spread by many types of flies is pigeon fever, or dryland distemper, which usually causes large abscesses to form. The bacteria is found in the soil and can be picked up by flies and transmitted to your horse,” explains Dr Coder.

“Frequently, the effects are external, but multiple internal abscesses or even inflammation of the intestines can occur. Horses often have high fevers, go off feed, or even present with lameness.”

3. Equine infectious anemia

“Deer flies and horse flies can transmit equine infectious anemia [EIA], which is a fatal disease for many horses. It has no treatment or vaccine,” says Dr Coder. “It can cause fever, weight loss, icterus [yellowing of body tissues], anemia, swelling in the limbs, and weakness, but often shows no signs until the disease has progressed to a deadly stage.”

4. Vesicular stomatitis

“Vesicular stomatitis is a disease of the mouth, tongue, coronary band, and mucous membranes. The virus is often carried by biting flies such as biting midges, sand flies, or black flies. Biting flies can also cause blisters, sores, and pain in the affected areas,” says Dr Coder. “Horses affected by vesicular stomatitis must be strictly quarantined, as the fluid in the blisters is highly contagious once they break open.

“Although rarely fatal, horses may have high fevers, lameness, and go off feed or water.”

5. Summer sores

“Summer sores are caused by the larvae of the Habronema worm [stomach worm], which are carried and transmitted by stable flies and house flies,” says Dr Coder.

“Summer sores are commonly large, non-healing wounds that can be difficult to treat. These can occur anywhere on your horse, but are most commonly found near the mouth, eyes, or genital area. Deworming can control the larvae, but the sores are usually slow to heal and extremely itchy.”

6. Fly strike

Also known as myiasis, fly strike occurs when fly larvae (maggots) grow inside the host, usually the skin, and feed on the tissue as they develop. Horses are typically at risk of this when they have an open cut or wound that flies can reach to lay eggs in.

Clinical signs include lethargy, a bad smell, and noticing a wound or skin appearing to move as the maggots move under the skin; don’t forget to check your horse's legs and sheath. If you are concerned your horse has fly strike, you should call your vet immediately; the wound will need to be cleaned, the maggots removed, and antibiotics may be required.

7. Other conditions

“Many other flies can cause dermatitis, itching, hair loss, or even lead to more severe allergies when horses are chronically exposed,” says Dr Coder.

“Keeping flies off of horses will lead to prevention of mild to serious diseases as well as decrease stress and increase comfort for your horse.”

Flies are one of the few downsides to summer, but having the best fly spray for horses makes a huge difference in the battle to keep flies off horses. Insects aren't just a pest – some of their bites can cause reactions, infection, and constant itching, so it's crucial to keep your horse protected.

By investing in a high-quality option, like our selection below, you won't have to keep reapplying or worry about insects bothering your horse. You don't have to spend a fortune either – some of these can be diluted with water to make them stretch further and last longer.

To help you pick the best option, the experts over at our sister site Horse & Hound have rounded up their top picks below after thorough research and testing. Keep reading to find out why they voted the Farnam Tri-Tec 14 as the winner!

The best fly spray for horses

Photos from testing

Other fly sprays for horses to consider

Leovet Power Phaser Fly Spray

Crowned as the best fly spray for horses by the Horse&Hound team, we highly recommend this product if you can get your hands on it.

The only reason it didn’t make the top five is because it’s not readily available in the US, unfortunately. Alex said it’s one of the best sprays she’s ever used, thanks to the reliable formula that withstood hacks on warm evenings and schooling on cooler mornings, and prevented any insects from bothering her horses.

However, she did notice that the spray came off when her horses sweated a lot, and that the smell was strong and noticeable.

How we tested the best fly sprays for horses

These products were tested by Georgia Guerin (Editor of PetsRadar and Head of Ecommerce at Horse&Hound) and Alex Robinson (Showing Editor at Horse&Hound) for a minimum of three weeks.

When reviewing the products, the following criteria were kept in mind:

• Effectiveness: How well did the product repel and kill insects?
• Longevity: How long did the spray work before needing reapplication? Did it withstand sweat and harsh weather conditions?
• Application: How easy was the formula to apply?
• Scent: Did it have any unpleasant smells worth noting?
• Value for money: Is it affordable and worth the price tag?
• Packaging: Is it leak-proof and durable?

For more information about our processes, read how PetsRadar tests and how Horse&Hound tests.

Who tested the best fly sprays for horses?

How to choose the best fly spray for horses

With so many options on the market, it can be difficult to know which fly spray to choose. To help you make an informed decision, we asked veterinarian Dr. Lisa Coder for her advice:

She says: "When choosing a fly spray, there are many factors to consider. Oil based sprays last longer, but can be more drying or irritating to horses who have sensitive skin.

"Water based sprays are much gentler on the skin, but do not hold up against sweat, rain, or rinsing. Neither spray will last if a horse is bathed with soap.

"All natural products often use essential oils and other natural plant oils as repellents. These products are generally not as effective, and will need to be reapplied more frequently. Be sure to check with your veterinarian, as some essential oils can be toxic to horses."

Here’s a reminder of the best fly sprays for horses that we recommend:

What's the best way to keep flies off horses?

We know that the best fly sprays for horses keep those irritating insects at bay, but are there any other methods you can try as well? We asked Dr Coder for her thoughts.

She says, "The best way to keep flies off of horses is to reduce the flies in your facility. This means keeping stable areas clean and dry, removing feces daily at a minimum, and keeping stall waste as far from horse areas as possible.

"Another way to prevent flies on horses is to keep a barrier between your horse and the flies. This can be in the form of fly sheets and boots, screens on barn and stall doors, and use of facility fly sprays."

How often should you spray horses for flies?

When it comes to protecting your horse from insects, you might wonder how often you need to reapply the spray. According to Dr Coder, this all depends on:

• The type of spray used
• Other protections your horse has against flies
• How often your horse sweats
• How often your horse is bathed

Read next: Best fly rugs for horses and tips for taking care of your horse

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

The rarest horse breeds come from all regions of the globe. Some are desert-dwelling equines with ancient roots, while others learned to thrive in the harsh and rugged landscape of the wildest parts of Britain. Others are more recent cultivations, carefully selected for key characteristics such as color and conformation.

One thing all these breeds have in common is scarcity. Indeed, some of these beautiful breeds only have a handful of individuals left. Though small in number, all these elusive equines have so much to offer, from sporting skill and sleek, elegant coats to vital conservation work and cultural heritage. Here are 20 of the rarest horse breeds that deserve your attention.

Rarest horse breeds

1. Clydesdale

Clydesdales are closely associated with Budweiser, and many Super Bowl viewers will recognise them from the company’s famous commercials. While it’s true Clydesdales are great for driving work, and they still participate in farm and heritage work such as logging, many also rate them highly as riding horses.

Clydesdales are one of the largest horse breeds, and recognizable by their flowing white feathers that adorn their lower legs. Many also have white blazes down their faces. It’s thought that the global Clydesdale population is fewer than 5,000.

2. Suffolk

The Suffolk horse is also known as the Suffolk Punch, and is always a brownish orange color known as chestnut, or “chesnut” in local dialect. Like many UK draft breeds, the Suffolk was the precursor to the tractor and worked the land on farms, in forests, and transported goods to market.

Today, the Suffolk horse is often touted to be rarer than the panda. In fact, the breed numbers fewer than 500 in the UK today. Thanks to the work and promotion of breed preservation societies, it’s hoped these numbers will increase.

3. Akhal-Teke

The Akhal-Teke spent generations roaming the Kakarum Desert in Central Asia and has ancient roots – Macedonian King Alexander the Great is said to have ridden them. Records of the breed date back approximately 3,000 years, but equine remains found at a Siberian burial site dating as far back as the 6th century BC are remarkably similar to the Akhal-Teke of today. The Akhal-Teke is frequently crossed with thoroughbreds and sport horse breeds to harness their athletic abilities and flair for endurance.

Akhal-Tekes have a distinct conformation, including a long, slender neck that tapers at the almond-shaped head, which is carried high. They are also famed for their coats’ shimmering sheen-like quality. There are around 6,600 Akhal-Teke in the world, mostly found in Turkmenistan, where they are a national symbol.

4. Carolina Marsh Tacky

Marsh Tackies are an American saddle horse descended from colonial Spanish equines brought to the coast of South Carolina in the 1500s. The breed was developed on the Sea Islands of South Carolina to create a small, sturdy and surefooted mount that can navigate the soft and arduous marsh terrain.

Marsh Tackies are also well adapted to the hot and humid climate of the marshes, both in their ability to withstand heat and remain unflustered with their calm and easygoing manner. An integral element of South Carolina culture, they are extremely rare, with an estimated 400 Tackies alive today.

5. Exmoor

Exmoor ponies are named for the English national park where they can be found. They are widely considered to be one of the world’s oldest equine breeds. Some theories posit they have prehistoric origins, descending from wild horses from north-west Europe more than a hundred millennia ago.

Exmoors are small and stout, often bay in color, and are recognizable for the white markings that encircle their eyes and muzzles. Living wild in harsh climates for 100s of generations has made them very hardy and easy keepers – many owners keep them out all year round with no need to blanket. There are thought to be around 2,000 Exmoors worldwide.

6. Dartmoor

This English moorland pony has been a recorded inhabitant of Dartmoor, another Devonshire national park, since the Middle Ages. They’re sure-footed, tough, and able to withstand the harshest wintry conditions, which makes them great grazers for conservation and rewilding projects.

Dartmoor ponies are generally one block dark color. Semi-wild pony numbers on Dartmoor have dropped in the last 25 years, and there are around 800 roaming the moorland. Estimates put the global population of Dartmoor ponies at around 2,000-5,000.

7. Marwari

Once the stuff of myth and legend, genome mapping in the 2010s revealed Arabian and Mongolian components to this Indian breed’s make-up, confirming stories that native ponies were crossed with Arabians to produce the breed. Marwaris were then cultivated by the Rathores, rulers of the Marwar region, who used them as cavalry and riding horses.

Marwaris fell out of favour in the 20th century as British colonizers preferred the thoroughbred. Today, they number about 5,000 worldwide. They can be recognized by their iconic curved ears and athletic build.

8. American Cream Draft

The American Cream is the only draft horse breed developed in the USA. They became popular in the 1930s, and one owner in particular, Clarence T Rieson, was particularly influential in cultivating the breed. Indeed, he was one of the founding members of the American Cream Draft Horse Association.

Sadly, the breed was established just as the market for draft horses was obliterated by the rise of mechanization. Thankfully, a few owners kept hold of their American Creams, and breed development efforts resumed in the 1980s. Though rare, with approximately 400 individuals registered, it’s hoped dedicated breeding programmes and renewed interest will help numbers rise.

9. Sorraia

For a long time, the Sorraia existed virtually unknown beyond local knowledge, but awareness began to spread from 1920. At this point, a Portuguese paleontologist and zoologist, Dr Roy d’Andrade, came across the breed in the lowlands of the Iberian Peninsula by the river Sorraia.

Occasionally, locals would catch them and train them for herding or farming work, but they were largely an untouched equine population. Conservation efforts began in the 1930s, and the small herd expanded. There is still much to learn about Sorraia’s origins, but they have primitive markings such as a black dorsal stripe and “zebra markings” on their legs.

Prehistoric cave art resembling the Sorraia suggests this breed is ancient indeed. With an estimated 200-300 individuals worldwide, the Sorraia isn’t just one of the rarest horse breeds, but also critically endangered.

10. Eriskay

Born dark but usually turning grey with age, Eriskay ponies are docile and built to thrive in harsh Scottish winters. They were invaluable to the people of the Hebridean Islands for farm work and hauling peat for winter fuel, but as mechanization took hold in the latter half of the 20th century, their numbers declined.

Eriskays’ thriftiness makes them great conservation grazers, while their strength and stamina mean they are ideal for driving. They have sweet natures, which makes them popular riding ponies for children. It’s estimated there could be fewer than 500 Eriskay ponies worldwide.

11. Highland

Highland ponies look similar to Eriskays, but despite their geographic proximity, the two breeds are genetically quite different.

Highlands are best known as the favored breed of the late Queen Elizabeth II. As sure-footed, docile, and good-natured mounts, they were the perfect choice to carry the British monarch, and the late Queen was often seen riding them well into her 90s. Today, an estimated 5,500 Highland ponies can be found worldwide.

12. Noma

The small but mighty Noma was favoured by Japanese farmers from the 17th century for its agility and stamina – it made a superb pack pony for mountainous terrain. However, the breed declined after the Russo-Japanese War of the early 20th century, when taller horses were more useful for military purposes.

By 1978, there were just six individuals left: a pair at Tobe Zoo and a stallion and three mares belonging to a private owner. A government-backed breeding programme was established, and that number has grown to around 80 today.

13. American Bashkir Curly

This interesting breed is instantly recognizable for its curly coat with a crushed velvet look, which is also hypoallergenic. Also known as the North American Curly Horse, records show the breed was discovered at the turn of the 20th century by Peter Damele, who came across three curly-coated equines while riding out through the Nevada desert.

Curlies can be found in all horse colors and have a sturdy build with strong, heavy-boned legs. Their hardiness and gentle nature make them great all-around saddle horses. Estimates put their numbers anywhere between 1,000-4,000 worldwide.

14. Caspian

Small in stature though still considered a horse for its conformation, the Caspian has ancient Persian roots with genetic links the Turkmenistan’s Akhal-Teke. Though not a new breed, the Caspian underwent something of a resurgence in the 1960s when Louise Firouz, a native of Virginia, and her Iranian husband, Narcy, were looking for ideal horses for children. They heard about the small-but-capable Caspian and began a breeding program.

In the 1970s, the late Prince Philip of England was gifted a breeding pair of Caspians, and conservation efforts took off. In the last ten years, studs in the UK have closed and numbers have dwindled to fewer than 500 in Britain, perhaps around 2,000 worldwide.

15. Camarillo White Horse

There are an estimated fewer than 30 Camarillo White Horses in existence, arguably making it one of the rarest horse breeds in the world. A relatively new breed, and a breed native to America, the Camarillo was cultivated from 1921 by a California family of the same name. The foundation stallion, ‘Sultan’, was purchased by the family from the 1921 Sacramento State Fair and bred with Morgan mares at their ranch in Ventura County.

The Camarillo is known for its pure white color with pink skin. Many greys are born dark and slowly turn, but the Camarillo is pure white from birth. A pure white horse is extremely hard to breed, and mating two white horses only has a 50% chance of breeding a white foal. All known white horses have one copy of the white gene, and it is understood that two copies would result in a failed pregnancy.

16. Cleveland Bay

The Cleveland Bay’s history can be traced back to the 17th century. The breed is named for its bay colouring and its native district of Cleveland in the northern English county of Yorkshire. They are short-backed and strong, which made them ideal for pulling heavy loads of wool from the farms to the mills of northern England. They were also widely used as carriage horses.

Today, Cleveland Bays are prized as riding and driving horses and are seen competing in a variety of activities, from jumping to showing. There are approximately 1,000 Cleveland Bays worldwide.

17. Przewalski’s Wild Horse

Przewalski’s horse is the only truly wild species of horse in the world. They can be identified by their stocky build, short legs, straight backs, zebra-like mane, and dorsal stripe running from the wither, or base of the mane, to the dock, or tail bone.

Extinct in the wild, the Przewalski's horse can be found at reintroduction sites in Mongolia, China, and Kazakhstan. Believed to have diverged from a common ancestor half a million years ago, the Przewalski has 66 chromosomes, whereas domesticated horses have 64. They are also known as Takhi, which means “spirit” in Mongolian.

18. Canadian

The official national horse of Canada, the Canadian is a descendant of French horses sent to the region in 1665 by King Louis XIV. Additional imports followed to establish an equine breeding population in the French colonies.

The breed is thought to share ancestry with British native breeds such as the Clydesdale as well as other European draft breeds. The Canadian horse has also influenced the modern Morgan, and they are usually bay, black, or brown. Historically, the Canadian was the ultimate all-rounder for saddle, farm, and driving work, and was also outcrossed with other breeds to serve different purposes. Today, its global population is around 6,000 animals.

19. Newfoundland

Another Canadian breed, the Newfoundland, is a pony type established from equine stock brought over to the region by British and Irish settlers. The Newfoundland is thought to have a variety of British native pony breeds as part of its genetic makeup, including the Exmoor, Dartmoor, Highland, and Irish Connemara.

These ponies are built to withstand the harshest weather and, before the Industrial Revolution, were used to fetch kelp from the seashore, plough fields, and gather firewood. Breed numbers dwindled with the rise of machinery, and by 1980, the population dropped from several thousand to just a couple of hundred. The global population today is roughly 2,000.

20. Zorse

A zorse is the offspring of a zebra stallion and a mare that resembles the mother with some zebra markings overlaid on the base coat color. The offspring are sterile and cannot reproduce.

Early documentation of zorses can be found in the late 19th century, when Scottish zoologist James Cossar Ewart began his Penicuik Experiments that saw him cross various species as part of his study of genetics. There are estimated to be about 100 zorses worldwide.

Read next: Miniature horse breeds

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Small but perfectly formed, how many miniature horse breeds do you know?

We’ll be exploring some of the most adorable tiny equines in this article, but it should be noted that technically, not just any tiny pony can be called a miniature horse – more about this below.

Tiny equines need all the care and attention that larger horses do, and it would be a fallacy to think you can scale down your horse husbandry due to their size. In fact, minis need special attention paid to their weight. Monitoring their feed intake closely and ensuring they are exercised properly keeps minis happy and healthy.

Minis aren’t really for riding, but there are still so many ways to exercise, bond and have fun with a mini horse pal. They can be driven, for example, exhibited in showing classes and even take part in horse agility. They can be walked like a dog, too!

So, without further ado, let’s get a taste for the smallest horse breeds around!

Miniature horse breeds

5. Shetland

We kick off the list with one of the most iconic pony breeds, the Shetland. Not only are these little floofballs one of the smallest equine breeds, they can also be considered among the oldest.

Hailing from the Shetlands, a group of small islands more than 100 miles from mainland Scotland, the eponymous pony, or at least its ancestors, are thought to have been found there more than 2,000 years ago. The generations of living in a wild landscape with harsh weather and limited food have made the Shetland what it is today – a hardy, resilient breed with an attitude to match its stunning yet unpredictable native land.

Shetlands were originally used for land-based tasks, transport and mining. Nowadays, life isn’t as tough and they are doted on as pets and children’s riding ponies. Lovable yet stubborn, a Shetland knows its own mind and will take advantage of any sign of weakness!

4. Dutch Miniature

The Dutch Miniature, or Nederlands Minipaard, is a finely-built miniature horse breed and has been established with a studbook since 1993. Initially, all horses under 106cm (42 inches) were welcome, allowing diverse genetics to help cultivate the little Dutch horse further. Today, those hoping to register their horse in the studbook must have a Dutch Mini pedigree with registered parents.

Dutch Minis are widely shown and the breed registry holds a summer show for minis of all breeds on the first Saturday of July. There are various classes, including jumping, driving and showing.

3. Miniature Shetland

Okay, we’re technically repeating here, but did you know Shetland ponies come in an even tinier version?

Just when you thought these little guys couldn’t get cuter and more floofy, along comes the Mini Shetland. They’re just like the standard size – chunky, surefooted, resiliant and cheeky – but can be more than ten inches smaller.

2. American Miniature

The American Miniature is another of the miniature horse breeds that should look like an exact, tiny replica of a full-size riding horse.

According to the American Miniature Horse Association, the mini horse didn’t enter wider public awareness until the 1960s. However, their recorded history in the US begins in 1888 with records of an imported mini. The belief that the American Mini was cultivated further by way of crossing with imported European mining horses is widely held, and it’s thought the size might have been shrunk down with some Shetland Pony genes, too.

American Minis make for great companions; they’re affectionate, fun-loving and trainable. They can be driven and are prime candidates for halter work and equine agility.

1. Falabella

This tiny Argentine breed takes the top spot with ease! Falabellas are pretty rare, with just a few thousand purebreds worldwide, but despite their super-small stature, they can withstand temperature extremes and rugged terrains.

The breed’s origins lie in the Spanish horses brought to South America from the 16th century onwards. Essentially running wild, these horses made their way to isolated regions outside Buenos Aires, while some joined herds that belonged to the indigenous Mapuche people. Centuries in the harsh environment with scant forage and water cultivated the breed’s stamina and intelligence.

In 1845, Irishman Patrick Newtall noticed the Argentine people were keeping unusually small horses alongside their riding horses, and began keeping and breeding them, transferring his knowledge to his son-in-law, Juan Falabella, prior to his death.

Falabella cross-bred with other horse breeds, namely Shetland ponies and specially-selected English thoroughbreds, to develop the Falabella – a scaled-down horse with a refined head and tiny features perfectly in proportion.

How small was the smallest horse ever?

According to Guinness World Records, the smallest horse ever documented was Thumbelina, a miniature from St Louis, Missouri. She stood at a minuscule 17 inches to the wither (that’s a little over 4hh) and weighed just 57lb. That’s about the same as an English Bulldog!

What is a miniature horse?

A miniature horse is just that – a sport or riding horse in miniature. Essentially, miniature horse breeds look like a full-size horse shrunk down, and maintain all the qualities of a horse, just teeny-tiny.

While you might come across a pony and a miniature horse standing at the same height, you’ll be able to tell the difference because the pony will, well, look like a pony. That is to say that ponies commonly have a heavier build, a proportionally shorter body and legs, a wider barrel, thicker necks and shorter heads.

Another thing to note is that miniature horses have been selectively bred to achieve this scaled-down aesthetic over hundreds of years, and many different nations have cultivated their own versions of these tiny little guys.

Have you ever encountered one of the biggest horse breeds? Many of these tall, broad equines are draft horses. Due to their history, which is mostly rooted in working the land, you don’t see as many of them as you would have 100 or more years ago. Thanks to the efforts of numerous breed societies worldwide, many of these historic draft horses are still bred today, representing a tangible link to our past.

As well as being the heaviest and biggest horse breeds, draft horses are muscular, strong and built for pulling. Some are smaller and denser, others leggier and more athletic-looking, but one thing that unifies draft horses is their hardiness and willingness to work. Placid yet obedient, draft horses like the ones we’ll look at in this article were the ideal working partner in a world before machines.

That’s not to say they don’t make wonderful companions today, and many draft breeds can be seen as the beloved partners of leisure riders, heritage crafters and industry enthusiasts and traditionalists alike. Let’s take a look at the 10 biggest of these wonderful breeds.

Biggest horse breeds in the world

10. Comtois

Hailing from the Jura Mountains on the French/Swiss border, the Comtois was once a prized cavalry and military horse. It’s said Louis XIV used these magnificent beasts in his armies, as did Napoleon when he invaded Russia.

Today, the Comtois is one of France’s most popular heavy horse breeds. They are still widely used in logging and farming work, especially in places where the land cannot be worked by machines. Comtois also make for great leisure horses, as well as being used for draft work.

9. Dutch Draft

This sturdy, broad-chested horse was built to pull heavy loads. This breed closely resembles the Belgian Draft and was once abundant in the coastal Zeeland region of the Netherlands. Here, the heavy marine clay makes farm work a tough task, so this equine powerhouse is the perfect solution.

The Dutch Draft is still a working horse today, albeit on a much smaller scale. They are used in heritage work, harness competitions and sometimes for leisure riding.

8. Jutland

This compact and muscular horse originates from the Jutland peninsula in eastern Denmark. Although the breed’s ancestors were bred here from the Middle Ages, the breed as we know it today was refined from the middle of the 19th century.

The Jutland is closely linked to the Carlsberg brewery, which used the breed to haul brewery wagons in the 20th century. Today, the Jutland can still be found pulling Carlsberg wagons in Copenhagen, and can also be seen at shows, promoting the beer and the Jutland itself.

7. American Cream Draft

The first known American Cream was called ‘Old Granny’; she appeared at a farm sale in Story County, Iowa, in 1911. A vet named Eric Christian, arrested by the beauty of her foals, persuaded Nelson Bros of Jewell, Iowa, to keep a colt for a breeding stallion. Over time, a new breed of cream-colored all-American draft horses was cultivated in Iowa.

The breed is endangered today, but is desirable for harnessing, hitching and driving.

6. Suffolk Horse

The Suffolk Horse, also known as the Suffolk Punch, is the rarest draft horse in the UK. They played a vital role in shaping the country’s agricultural and military history as they worked the flat, fertile farmland of the East Anglia region and many Suffolks were bred in the early to mid-19th century to meet the demand for farm work.

Their numbers were further depleted as they were used to haul artillery guns during World War One, and as the 20th century advanced, mechanized farming further halted breeding efforts. The Suffolk remains rare to this day, but there are a number of breeding initiatives promoting population growth. They can be seen at agricultural and country shows, and they are increasingly used in ridden work.

5. Clydesdale

The iconic Clydesdale, recognisable for its flowing white feathers, is closely associated with Budweiser. Beer wagons pulled by teams of Clydesdale geldings to advertise and promote Budweiser’s product, and Americans will recognise the Budweiser Clydesdale advert as a long-standing Super Bowl tradition.

In their native Scotland, Clydesdales were another firm fixture on farms from the early 18th century. They were also involved in logging and driving. They are still used for heritage draft work, and they are also kept as ridden and show horses.

4. Ardennais

Although not one of the biggest horse breeds by height, the Ardennais, or Ardennes, has an impressive amount of heft. These draft horses originate from Ardennes, a region spanning Belgium, Luxembourg and France, and are one of the oldest horse breeds, speculated to be descended from ancient horses and used by Roman legions and medieval knights for jousting and warring.

Super strong and willing, these draft horses are famed for their pulling power and bravery in battle. Today, they are still used in driving and riding, and can also be found at equine therapy centres.

3. Belgian Draft

Like the Ardennes, the Belgian Draft was popular for its strength and stoicism both in agricultural and military settings. Though the demand for draft horses declined as the world became increasingly mechanized, the breed was beloved and protected from going extinct.

Belgians today undertake heritage agricultural and driving work, but are also brilliant leisure horses across ridden and driving work.

2. Percheron

There is some speculation about the Percheron’s origins, but records from the 8th century link early Percherons to Normandy, France. Today’s Percheron can be grouped into three types: the smaller French Percheron, the taller North American Percheron and the British Percheron in between.

Resilient and hard-working, the Percheron’s working history has spanned the centuries as a loyal cavalry charger, a means of artillery haulage, a stagecoach puller and a farm workhorse. It remains a popular draft horse breed for leisure and show use.

1. Shire

The Shire horse takes the number one spot in our list of biggest horse breeds. Their breeding has been honed over centuries from its fenland ancestor, the Lincolnshire Black, and crossed with Flemish horses to produce the tall, strapping draft horse we know today.

With a tremendous capacity for pulling, the Shire has been employed in various domestic and commercial tasks over the centuries, from carrying knights to pulling barges along canals and for arable work and transport. They’re also used for leisure activities such as trekking, and they are shown in hand, under saddle and can be seen competing in ploughing matches.

How tall was the biggest horse ever?

According to Guinness World Records, the tallest horse ever documented was a Shire horse called Sampson. He foaled in 1846 in Bedfordshire, England, and reached a height of 21.2hh, or almost 87 inches to the wither.

Read next: American horse breeds

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

Is there anything better than watching animals from different species become the best of friends? The human-canine and human-feline bonds can be extremely strong, of course, but what about that between cat and horse?

Cupcake, a mini pony, has ‘adopted’ a barn cat, Rocky, and their bond has gone viral. While Rocky might happily go to his humans for the best cat treats, he’ll go to Cupcake for plenty of attention too.

The miniature pony has her own foal, Strawberry Shortcake, too, but she’s more than happy for Rocky to join them. Cupcake’s mom posted a video of the trio on TikTok, writing, “Cupcake has two kids now, she adopted a cat” and adding in the caption, “Happy family, seriously have you ever seen this before mare and foal accepting a cat into their family.”

Of course, Cupcake’s followers loved the interspecies friendship, one writing, “Cats do communal kitten raising so [he’s] there to help.” Another pointed out that cat and foal are almost the same size, while one more said, “I noticed the cat photobombing in earlier videos…precious.”

In another video, Rocky and Strawberry are lying next to each other in the barn with the caption reading, “Ever seen a cat and a pony snoozing together, then Rocky wanted to wake her up to play.”

In the comments on another video of Strawberry, Cupcake’s mom revealed that her arrival was a surprise. “I couldn’t believe it,” she wrote. “It was so unexpected, I was completely shocked. I’m so glad it happened and all went well.”

She shared another video in which she approaches Cupcake before turning to show Strawberry in the corner, with the caption, “When you were filming a TikTok but walk in and there’s a surprise foal.”

And while Strawberry is gradually growing up, she won’t be a whole load bigger than Rocky even as an adult. Miniature ponies don’t exceed 34 inches (8.2hh) at shoulder height, so while she’ll be bigger than a cat, they’ll still be able to play together in their happy family unit. You can keep up with their adventures at @cupcake.the.mini.pony on Instagram.

Read next: 32 things to consider before getting a horse or American horse breeds

Good equine care not only relies on a bank of horse knowledge but also experience and razor-sharp instincts. One of our top tips for taking care of a horse is to cultivate the ability to read the often subtle signs horses give and adjust their care to give them what they need. This could cover anything from altering their horse’s feed to maintain optimum weight and energy levels to opting for the best blanket to keep their horse at just the right temperature.

It’s worth noting that I’m talking about a horse’s needs, not wants. I know plenty of horses who’ll noisily kick their stall door if there’s any chance that’ll get them a hoped-for treat! But while horses communicate some things extremely clearly, it can be much trickier to detect if a horse is in pain or discomfort, or if they would benefit from a different bit, or a new type of bedding in their stall… the list goes on.

Lots of horse owners wish horses could simply tell them what’s up, so the PetsRadar team got to thinking: what if horses could text? At first glance, it seems like a perfect solution – most owners live a short drive from the barn, so being able to check in with their horse to make sure all’s well seems like a huge win. But, if I know horses, those sneaky equines would soon be abusing the power of instant messaging. Here’s how I think the texts your horse would send you would go…

32 texts your horse would send

1. “Excuse me, you’re late!”

Sent at 7:03 am. Here’s the thing, you’re normally at the barn by 7am sharp, but it just took you a couple extra minutes to open your eyes this morning. Unfortunately, your horse is an excellent timekeeper, and wants breakfast…

2. “Erm… do you have anything else?”

Having placed your horse’s bucket in front of them they spend a couple of seconds pushing their feed around with their nose before shooting you a highly unimpressed look. You might need to look for a tasty additive to tempt this fussy eater.

3. “You haven't left me any hay!”

You in fact did leave your horse plenty of hay, but he’s trampled it into his bedding and now it’s undetectable.

4. “Hold the ice, please!”

Uh-oh, your horse’s trough has frozen over on an unexpectedly chilly night! While it’s great your horse could let you know, it’s a shame the message has come through at 2am… horse ownership truly is 24/7!

5. “Can I swap paddocks?”

Your horse is green with envy after spotting a neighboring field with a lush carpet of grass – it’s definitely greener on the other side. It’s nice of them to ask rather than concoct their own moving plans.

5. “Actually, don’t worry – I’ll switch over myself”

Oh rats – spoke too soon, your horse has decided to make use of their showjumping skills and hop the electric fence into the grassy paradise next door.

7. “Something bit me!”

Your horse incurred a zap from the aforementioned fence. You’re just hoping they are the only ‘casualty’, and the fence hasn’t taken a hit. Destroyed in seconds, mended in hours!

8. “I'm being watched!”

An unknown animal, vegetable, or mineral has caught your horse’s eye. In classic prey animal style, your horse has labeled this anonymous entity a nuclear-level threat – they may well need rescuing.

9. “It’s scary out here, I want to come in!”

Windy conditions are notorious in the equine world – they give even the most innocuous objects a menacing air and a life of their own! Your horse sent you this message gripped with terror and needs you to shepherd them to the safety of the barn, make them comfortable and leave them happily munching on hay.

10. “Actually, can you let me out?”

You’re five minutes into your journey home when your horse sends you this. How can they be bored already? Now you’ve got to change their blanket again. Needless to say, they’ve certainly got some explaining to do.

11. “Sorry for the change of plans…”

Well, at least they’ve got the decency to apologise!

12. “I don’t think I need my blanket after all, can you come and take it off?”

In the excitement of going back out to pasture (the same pasture they so desperately wanted to escape 10 minutes ago) they’ve enjoyed a speedy gallop around the perimeter and come back to the gate overheated and in a total sweat.

13. “On second thought, I’ve managed to get it off myself”

Your sweaty, itchy horse has rolled repeatedly in the mud and somehow managed to wriggle out of their blanket. Neither they nor you can figure out how!

14. “And don’t be mad, but one of my shoes is missing…”

All that irresponsible charging around has loosened and dislodged a front shoe. Does your horse appreciate the scale of the admin and finance involved in fixing this problem?

First, you’ll have to call the farrier to see if they can squeeze in an appointment (even though your horse only had new shoes last week), juggle that unexpected engagement around work and plans, and figure out how you’re going to pay yet another shoeing bill. Perhaps no take-out Friday this week…

15. “Sorry, too busy to be caught!”

The good news is that the farrier is in the area and can shoe your horse right away. However, in all the excitement your horse is having far too much fun to be caught. It’s going to take you ages to get anywhere near your snorting beast and the farrier is 10 minutes away. You can’t keep them waiting when they’re doing you such a big favor!

16. “So, I heard what you said about me to Dave... Not cool!”

In your profuse apologies to the farrier after turning up late, you might have used some choice words to describe your horse and their behavior. In earshot, too.

17. “Dusty is really starting to get on my nerves…”

Your horse is Dusty’s best friend, but sadly the feeling isn’t mutual and she is unknowingly driving your horse up the wall. They plead with you to do something about it, and you faithfully oblige by haltering Dusty and bringing her into the barn.

18. “Nooooo, where are you taking Dusty?”

Turns out that wasn’t the right call, and your horse is horrifically lonely without their annoying pasture buddy. Talk about a love-hate relationship – yours had better come in, too!

19. “Thanks soooo much for this lovely clean bedding!”

At first, you’re really pleased your mucking out skills are appreciated, but your horse followed up with a message saying it made a great place to empty their bladder. What is it about horses and ruining a clean stall as soon as they set foot in there?

20. “There was loads of junk on my stall walls so I’ve pulled it all down for you”

Convenient storage space can be scarce at the barn, so lots of boarders take to using stall bars to secure horse boots to or insert a bar for hanging blankets accessibly. Today, your horse has taken it upon themself to strategically pull each item down and into his soon-to-be soiled bed. Sigh.

21. “OMG, my haynet’s empty!”

This seems suspicious, as you only said goodnight to your horse 45 minutes ago… you asked for more information.

22. “There’s literally nothing in it”

You ask your horse to send a picture and the haynet is full, but upon further investigation, your horse informs you it can’t be hay because it doesn’t “taste right”. Back to the barn, then!

23. “This is delicious!”

You emptied the hay onto the floor and now it’s a gourmet treat. Go figure.

24. “I know how you love mucking out, so I made the biggest mess I could for you!”

I mean, you do clean your horse’s stall every day, but it’s out of necessity, not because you relish the task. It’s sort of sweet that they think you do it for fun, though. You may need to break it to them...

25. “BTW, Buddy’s owner brought him a carrot this morning…”

This is your horse’s way of making it crystal clear that they won’t be doing anything without a bribe. Best see what you have in the refrigerator.

26. “Just an FYI it’s muddy out here, but I promise to be careful”

You were afraid of this. The pasture did look muddy when you led your horse out, but you sort of hoped they wouldn’t notice. And you’re not buying this whole ‘I’ll be careful’ nonsense.

27. “Are you planning on riding?”

There it is, you know something’s up. You reply ‘why do you ask?’

28. “No reason, but I hope you’re not in a rush”

This isn’t a good sign. You press them a little further…

29. “So, full disclosure – I’m covered in mud”

GREAT. You remind them that they have a competition tomorrow, and in 24 hours they will need to be spotlessly clean.

30. “I mean, you can bath me if you want, but you’ve got 20 minutes before I get bored”

Bathing a horse is like bathing a dog – it just takes 10 times longer. And with a bored, fidgety horse, you can probably expect to double the duration.

31. “We could always expand that window… if you can sweeten the deal”

This means treats, of course. While bribery isn’t ideal, time is not on your side. It’s time to raid the feed store for your equine’s favorite horse treats.

32. “Thank you for the treats. I love you soooooooo much”

Bath successfully executed (though you’re not sure who came out of it cleaner, you or them), your treat pocket is empty and your horse is spotless, blanketed, and unlikely to get dirty again unless they really mean it. But, looking at this text, you sort of don’t mind if they do – the love of a horse is the most precious gift. With a cute face like that, your horse could get away with murder!

Horses have long been an integral part of America’s history, culture, and landscapes – and there are a number of horse breeds native to America. From galloping freely across the plains to carrying settlers through rugged terrains, these noble creatures represent both resilience and beauty.

It’s easy to pin the mustang of the Wild West as America’s most famous specimen, but beyond this lies a treasure trove of lesser-known native breeds, each with its unique story, characteristics, and charm. Many of these breeds, shaped by centuries of adaptation to their environments, are living legacies reflecting the diverse regions of the continent. Plus, there are some more recent additions, reflecting the changing fabric of equestrian society.

America’s native horse breeds evolved alongside the nation’s history. Some were shaped by indigenous cultures that relied on them, while others adapted to the harsh realities of wild terrains. Some are still feral; others excel in the competition arena. Each breed carries its heritage in its stride – whether it’s the hardy marsh tacky of the south-east or the iconic, spotted appaloosa of the north-west.

Knowing where your horse descends from is one of the top tips for taking care of your horse. Let’s take a closer look at the rich tapestry of horse breeds that call America home.

Horse breeds native to North America

1. American Quarter Horse

One of the most versatile breeds in the world, the American quarter horse is the fastest equine over a quarter-mile – hence the name. But besides this blistering pace, they also excel in all sorts of disciplines, from polo and jumping to reining and Western pleasure classes.

This well-muscled and compact breed is still used on ranches and has the ideal mix of toughness with a wonderful temperament that always longs to please.

2. Appaloosa

The state horse of Idaho, appaloosas are known as the spotted horse, although not all appaloosas have spots (most do) and not all spotted horses are appaloosas! Confused? The pattern of an appaloosa’s coat markings also varies widely, from the appealingly named “few spot leopard” to “marble”, “frosted blanket” – and “solid”, which has no spots at all.

The appaloosa goes back to prehistoric times when spotted horses were depicted on cave walls. The modern appaloosa was developed in the US around a century ago, chiefly as a stock horse. They excel in Western riding disciplines such as cutting, reining, roping, and barrel racing. They are also popular for movie work.

3. American Paint Horse

A hugely popular breed in the US, these beautifully marked horses excel in myriad disciplines. These colorful horses are descended from those introduced by Spanish explorers, wild mustangs, and cow ponies. The resultant, refined breed is tough, athletic, and willing while retaining a short-coupled, stock-horse physique.

Their coat pattern is a combination of white with any of the equine colors: black, bay, brown, chestnut, dun, grulla, sorrel, palomino, gray, or roan.

4. Mustang

The mustang is a free-roaming, feral horse, whose name derives from the Spanish for “stray”. They descend from horses brought over by Spanish explorers. These strong, hardy, and speedy horses are known for their intelligence and independence, however, they can be domesticated by an experienced horseman and are quick learners.

5. American Saddlebred

The American saddlebred is known as the “ultimate show horse”, with fluid and expressive gaits. They have great presence, with grace, elegance, and confidence, a long, shapely neck, and a high head carriage.

Brave and agile, their roots are as cavalry horses, so they have a natural dispensation for dressage, but are also used for driving, eventing, hunter jumper classes, and endurance riding.

6. Tennessee Walking Horse

A light horse breed founded in Tennessee, the walking horse is a mix of various breeds, including the Narragansett and Canadian pacer, standardbred, thoroughbred, Morgan, and saddlebred.

This docile breed has smooth and easy movement, which gives a wonderfully comfortable and pleasurable ride. It is known for its distinct gaits: the flat-foot walk, running walk, and canter. There are variations of the ultra-gliding “running walk”, which aren’t used in the show ring but are appreciated on trail rides.

7. Morgan Horse

Considered America’s first horse, the Morgan is a wonderful all-rounder. All Morgans can be traced back to an 18th-century sire called Justin Morgan, who gave his name to the breed. They were the chosen mount for soldiers as an artillery horse before the age of mechanization.

A distinctive feature is their unusual stance – they stand with their hindlegs splayed out parallel behind.

8. Rocky Mountain Horse

There is precious little official history relating to the Rocky Mountain Horse, which originated in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains in eastern Kentucky. They were gaited, sure-footed, and comfortable workhorses, used by postmen,and doctors, to plow fields, and herd cattle and could turn their hoof to just about any job.

They have an ambling four-beat gait, and a gentle temperament and are known for being fabulous companions with superb stamina.

The traditional color is chocolate with a flaxen mane and tail but any solid body color is permitted.

9. Missouri Fox Trotter

Developed, as the name suggests, in the state of Missouri, the fox trotting horse is an easy-going and comfortable pleasure ride. They are sure-footed, with stamina aplenty, thanks to their origins as a workhorse for settlers, used to plow fields and herd cattle as well as transport the family whether on its back or in a carriage.

Nowadays they make versatile riding and show horses. The Missouri fox trotter is the official state horse of Missouri.

10. American Standardbred

The standard breed was developed to race in harness. They closely resemble the thoroughbred, whose genes it has in its ancestry while being heavier boned. They have two distinct two-beat gaits, the trot and the pace. In trot the legs move in diagonal pairs, while the pace involves both legs on each side moving together – and they can really shift!

11. Florida Cracker Horse

The official horse of Florida, the cracker horse derives from colonial Spanish breeds. They have plenty of other names, including Chickasaw, seminole and prairie pony, Florida cow pony, grass gut and more!

It is a rare breed but dates back to the 16th century. The name cracker is said to come from the noise the cowboys made with their cow whip cracking in the air. They are small riding horses, with refined and elegant heads.

12. Canadian Horse

The bay or black Canadian horse, which derives from France via Louis XIV, has had an important impact on many of the native American breeds such as the Morgan, American saddlebred, and standardbred. However, although it was well known in the US in the 19th century as being a mainstay on stagecoach routes, there was no breed association established. Many of these horses were killed in action in the cavalry.

Some Quebecois breeders took on the mantle, forming a studbook, and today this versatile riding and driving horse – cherished by both families and the mounted police – is Canada’s national breed. However, it is still on the critical list as a rare breed.

13. Nokota Horse

The Nokota have a mixed ancestry but with a Spanish colonial heritage. Often a rare blue-roan color, Nokotas have been used throughout their history as war horses, buffalo runners, and riding horses. They are athletic, brave, intelligent, and sure-footed, with a fantastic natural jump, and are sometimes described as an “equine all-terrain vehicle”.

14. Chincoteague pony

Also known as the Assateague, to reflect the island where the breed originated, the Chincoteague pony has a mélange of Arabian, mustang, Shetland, and thoroughbred heritage. They are famous for an annual swim they make across a channel to the neighboring island of Chincoteague, which draws huge crowds.

The ponies are born wild, but they are easily domesticated, bonding readily with their owners and making great riding ponies. They are known for their fabulous personalities and ability to turn their hoof to any discipline willingly.

The Chincoteague is Virginia’s state pony.

15. Paso fino

Paso fino means “light step”, which reflects the smooth and athletic gait for which the breed is renowned. Their unique movement has been given the title, “the smoothest riding horse in the world”. They are fabulous for trail rides and endurance thanks to being wonderfully comfortable in the saddle and are cherished particularly by people who have back or knee pain.

Physically, they convey both strength and power, with an elegant head and alert, intelligent eyes.

16. Sable Island Horse

Horses were introduced to Sable Island, a tiny sandbar 250km off the coast of Nova Scotia, in the 18th century, but only the toughest were able to survive – and over time have become a breed in their own right. They are feral, with long, wild manes and tails, and thick, shaggy coats. They eat the coarse Marram grass and even seaweed! Their presence on this inhospitable island has drawn some criticism but they have survived 250 years without human interference and against all odds.

17. Pryor Mountain Mustang

A wild horse herd with colonial Spanish-American heritage that lives in the Pryor Mountains near Wyoming. These tough little mustangs have made their home in this rugged mountain area over the past 200 years.

They have been at serious risk of going extinct, however, they are now protected by the Pryor Mountain Wild Mustang Center, which is dedicated to preserving the future of wild horses in the Pryor Mountains.

They come in many colors but never pinto.

18. Choctaw Horse

Also known as the Choctaw Indian pony, this critically endangered breed has colonial Spanish origins. It is associated with the indigenous Choctaw people, who bred it in their homeland, and it has been used for farming, trading, and later as a riding horse.

19. American Bashkir Curly

Curly horses come in all colors, sizes, and types, but carry a special gene that gives them curly winter coats, which is said to be hypoallergenic. The range of curls has appealing names such as Marcel Wave, Crushed Velvet, and Micro Curl. The degree of curl can vary from ringlets to dreadlocks, while their ear and fetlock hair – and even eyelashes – may also be curly.

The breed’s origins are vague, with some people believing they come from the Bashkir area of Russia, while official documentation states that native Americans had curly horses in North America in the early 19th century.

20. Colorado Ranger

The Colorado ranger is often mixed up with the appaloosa and it is true there is some overlap. The Colorado ranger must descend from one of the two foundation stallions, Max #2 and/or Patches #1. Although many have a spotted coat, this is not a prerequisite – it is the pedigree that confirms a horse as a Colorado ranger. In fact, they may be any color except pinto.

They are still used for their original purpose as ranch horses, but also trail and pleasure riding.

21. Racking horse

This breed is descended from the Tennessee Walking Horse and is known for its distinctive single-foot gait, which is where the horse lifts and places each foot down individually – racking – which gives a smooth ride. They are known to have a friendly and gentle temperament.

The racking horse is the official state horse of Alabama.

22. Spotted saddle horse

The spotted saddle horse is a mix of the pinto Spanish colonial breeds with the North American breeds such as the Morgan, and gaited breeds like the Tennessee walking horse and Paso Fino. This resulted in a colorful light riding horse with smooth gaits – being both striking and comfortable for many hours in the saddle.

Although they may have multiple breeds in their ancestry, a spotted saddle horse can be registered provided it shows the ambling gait (rather than a trot) and has a pinto coat.

23. Shackleford Banks Horse

A small, feral herd of horses living on Shackleford Banks, North Carolina. No one is sure exactly how they arrived there – there are unproven legends about horses swimming ashore from shipwrecks. What is known is that they are likely to descend from colonial Spanish horses and have adapted to the harsh environment of the Atlantic coastal islands.

These horses are pony-sized, at a maximum of 13 hands high, and live with very little interference from humans. However, geneticists consider the breed important to preserve.

24. Carolina Marsh Tacky

South Carolina’s state heritage horse, the marsh tacky is a critically endangered breed. Once a common sight as a workhorse in the swampy areas of coastal South Carolina and Georgia, as well as in mounted cavalry, the breed dwindled with the advent of the automobile.

They are similar to the Florida cracker, also descending from Spanish colonial horses. These sweet and gentle horses have a unique gait, which is likely to have developed to assist them in moving over marshland.

25. Galiceño

The Galiceño is believed to be one of the earliest Spanish colonial horses in the Americas. The Spaniards colonizing Mexico brought horses over which were then left to breed in isolation. By the mid-20th century, many were imported to the US where they thrived.

They have historically been used for ranch work – which continues to this day, and also for trail riding, barrel racing, driving, and dressage. Numbers of the Galiceño are critically low.

26. American Indian Horse

The American Indian horse – also known as the cow pony, buffalo horse, or Indian pony – comes in myriad colors, sometimes with spots, and patches in every variation possible.

These tough horses tend to have Spanish barb, Arab, mustang, or Appaloosa bloodlines and tend to be compact animals with strong and healthy hooves, and plenty of feather and coat hair. They are well-acclimatized to cope with whatever the weather throws at them, be it arid summers or freezing winters.

27. Spanish Mustang

Many of America’s native horse breeds go back to Spanish colonial horses that were brought over by the Conquistadores. The Spanish mustang is the archetype, which has influenced so many breeds over the course of history. Some say this horse even shaped the America of today.

Highly intelligent, with a sense of self-preservation coupled with a desire to please people, the Spanish mustang has an affectionate disposition, while being alert and quick to learn. Sadly, this tough, hardy breed is now on the critically endangered list.

28. Nez Perce

The Nez Perce was developed in Idaho in the late 20th century by the Native American Nez Perce tribe, crossing appaloosas with the Akhal-Teke, a central Asian breed. Their aim was to try to re-establish the type of horse traditionally bred and kept by the tribe.

Typically the Nez Perce is buckskin or palomino, often with mottled or spotted coats. Their physique is like a lean quarter horse, and they tend to be gaited with great ability in endurance races.

29. National show horse

A relatively new breed dating back to the 1980s. They are regarded as the epitome of the modern-day show horse, combining two popular breeds, the American saddlebred with the Arabian. All national show horses must have at least 50% Arabian blood.

They are typically graceful and athletic with agility and stamina.

30. American Cream Draft

The only draft breed to have originated in the US, they were developed in Iowa in the early 20th century from a mare named Old Granny. They have always been a rare breed.

Their distinctive trait is their cream coloring, which ranges from pale cream to rich gold. The mane and tail are pale, and their eyes are amber.

31. Spanish Jennet

The Spanish Jennet – also known as the pinto paso or paso tiger horse – was once the choice of the Spanish nobility, a refined horse with beauty, style, and a proud head carriage. The modern version reflects this bold and energetic heritage, and typically sports a flashy patterned coat, along with the smooth gait of the paso breed.

32. Ojibwe (Lac La Croix)

The Ojibwe horse is also known as the Lac La Croix indigenous pony – or even just the Indian pony. There is some debate whether these horses were working with indigenous people before the settlers arrived, or whether they were introduced, but either way, they are an integral part of Canadian forest culture.

They are considered a “spirit animal”, and are used in equine therapy, indigenous heritage programs, and tourism.

Love to learn more about breeds? Here are our favorite American dog breeds

So you want a horse of your own. Bringing a horse into your life can be an exhilarating adventure, but it’s crucial to approach this decision with careful consideration. A horse is an animal with very specific needs. Importantly, they have the right to the five freedoms: freedom from hunger and thirst, freedom from discomfort, freedom from pain, injury, and disease, freedom from fear and distress, and the freedom to behave normally – that is, as a horse should, with sufficient space, appropriate facilities and the company of other equines.

If you are sure you can provide all this – then there’s more! Horses are a significant commitment in terms of time, energy, and finances that go further than just purchasing one of the best horse clippers. Beyond the dream of galloping through open fields or lifting that jumping trophy lies the reality of ongoing costs, such as feed, veterinary care, and boarding.

Before taking the plunge, assess your lifestyle and ask yourself honestly whether you can dedicate the necessary time to care for a horse properly. Consider where the horse will live – do you have access to appropriate facilities and a supportive community? And, blunt as it may sound, have you got the cash to do so?

Let’s take a look at some key considerations to evaluate before setting foot on the path to one of the most rewarding experiences available on this earth.

32 things to consider before getting a horse

1. Time management

Do you have the time for this massive commitment? Horses can’t be put in the cupboard like golf clubs when you are too busy to do your hobby. Depending on your livery arrangements, you need to have the time to care for your horse every day – and arrange cover for when you can’t be there. Holidays, evenings out, early starts, and late finishes at work all need to be considered around the upkeep and welfare of the horse.

2. The new home

Do you have plans for where you will keep the horse? If you can keep your horse at home, make sure you have everything in place well in advance for the new arrival, from safe fields (not poisonous plants, safe and secure fencing, water, and so on) to shelter, and a companion. Horses are herd animals and don’t like to live out of sight of other horses.

If you are planning to keep your horse at livery, make sure you have visited a few highly recommended local barns, and are happy with both other people’s reviews and your own impression. Many barns have waiting lists, so check if they are ready to take on your new horse when you need the place.

3. Your bank balance

There’s no getting away from it, horses are an expensive commitment. Don’t even consider taking on a horse before working out whether you can really afford it. Never mind the purchase price, it’s the monthly costs that will eat into your bank balance, from livery, to feed and hay, shoeing, bedding, vaccinations, insurance, tack, and equipment. That’s before you go down the road of lessons and competitions or any emergency costs.

4. Sharing

Before going headlong into full ownership, consider sharing a horse belonging to someone else. Many horse owners do not have time to ride five/six days a week so it is mutually beneficial to share their steed with another rider.

The sharer will usually be expected to make a financial contribution towards livery costs and often chip in with barn chores, though every agreement is different. This is a great way to sample the experience of ownership without the responsibility and at considerably less cost. Always draw up a contract to protect all parties.

5. Intended riders

Consider who will be riding the prospective horse. Mother-daughter shares often work really well, but bear in mind you’ll be looking for a very different animal if they have to suit contrasting members of the family, whether it’s a nervous 12-year-old or a competitive teenager, and a mother who wants to go to training camps with friends. Similarly, while you may weigh 120lb if the horse will also be ridden by your 6ft 3 husband, then it’s no use sourcing a lightweight horse or pony that won’t be up to carrying the heavier rider.

6. Your skill and experience

Ask yourself if you are really ready to look after a horse of your own. Analyze how much riding you have done, and how much time you have spent learning and practicing horse management. How ready are you to have full responsibility for your own horse?

Weekend riders who arrive at the center, do their half-hour lesson, and head home, will be better off working at a barn for a few months to get to grips with the work, gaining experience, and upping their riding hours so that it isn’t a shock to the system when they have a horse 24/7.

7. What you want – and need

Be honest with yourself about your riding ability, goals, and experience. An off-the-track thoroughbred may be cheap, but totally unsuited to a novice rider with no skills in retraining. A flashy dressage warmblood may catch the eye, but if you’re trail-riding around rocky paths, this might not be the best match. A foal may be cute, but if you have no experience in backing and producing young horses, you’re better off getting a horse that has been professionally schooled.

Many riders over-horse themselves because they believe they will “grow into” their mount, but it often ends in disaster, with both horse and rider losing confidence. It’s best to start out with a safe and steady conveyance.

8. Your goals

Goals sound as if all riders need to be aiming for the Olympics and of course, that’s not the case! But whether you want to have a horse to start competing after years of honing your skills at a riding school, or want to join your friends on fun trail rides for hours at the weekends, it’s well worth assessing what you want to do with the horse, so that you can source an appropriate partner with whom to fulfill whatever those ambitions are.

9. Your budget

The ongoing costs for the upkeep of a horse are one thing, but there is also the purchase price. It’s worth setting a budget for what you are prepared to pay so that you don’t start coveting horses that are way out of your price range. It’s hard to say no, even when you’re well over your financial limit, once you’ve fallen in love with the horse of your dreams. You don’t want to start your horse ownership journey way out of pocket.

10. Viewing the horse

Especially if it is your first time viewing a horse, think about which experienced horse person you will take along with you as another pair of eyes. Not only is it good to have a second opinion, but they can watch you ride the horse and give their verdict, as well as asking the right questions of the vendor. It can also prevent unscrupulous dealers from pulling the wool over the eyes of a novice buyer!

Having a knowledgeable person at your side helps prevent impulse buys and injects some rationality into the exciting adventure that is horse shopping.

11. Do your research

Horses always have a history. Ask plenty of questions about any prospective purchase. If the horse has competed, you will be able to look up its competition record and check it tallies with what the vendor is telling you. Track down previous owners, ask around local Pony Clubs, and make sure the horse is what the vendor is marketing him as.

You are also entitled to call up the horse’s vet to check its medical history.

12. Loaning

For those who do not want to launch fully into horse ownership, loaning is a possible avenue. Unlike sharing, where you typically ride someone else’s horse for part of the week and the owner rides him the rest – often with a financial contribution and chores at the barn – with loaning, you take on the sole responsibility for the upkeep of the horse and are the sole rider.

This is often offered when a horse is a veteran and the owners want to make sure he remains in work but do not want to sell him in his old age, or when the owner-rider has an injury, is pregnant, or needs to live abroad for a time. Whatever the situation, you can loan a horse for a specific amount of time, sometimes unlimited, without purchasing the horse. You will typically pay for upkeep, and can usually move it to a local barn of your choosing. Financial agreements vary, but always make sure you have a written contract.

13. Height

The height of your prospective horse is largely dependent on the rider. If you are acquiring the horse for a child, then a pony will be appropriate, while an adult needs to assess how much they weigh and their own height to gauge what will be most suitable.

The general guidance is that a horse can carry 15% (rider plus saddle) of their own weight. This means a 500kg horse is able to carry around 75kg of rider. Saddles vary but may weigh anything from 5–25kg depending on whether they are English or Western.

If you are considering getting a horse, you must have a good idea of what height horse suits you best, from previous experiences. But bear in mind that a 15hh cob is a totally different prospect to a 15hh thoroughbred, particularly in terms of their ability to carry weight.

14. Age

A horse is considered a veteran when it reaches the age of 16, but many go on to fulfill a purposeful and fruitful life well into their twenties, so don’t dismiss the golden oldies. If you are buying an older horse, be aware that you may well have responsibility for their end of life.

At the other end of the scale, sport horses are usually backed between three and four years old, so if this is your first horse, it makes sense to get a slightly older horse that has been professionally trained in the early stages. Younger horses tend to be greener while they get used to the world, but then there are some old heads on young shoulders and certainly some old-timers who retain their youthful joie de vivre no matter how many miles on the clock!

15. Breed

Breed is down to personal preference. Some people love the chunky cob, others the delicate Arab. A rider with dressage aspirations might hanker for a Hanoverian, while a mom might select a pretty Welsh section A for her young daughter. While there are certain traits that are linked to specific breeds, such as looks, movement, and likely discipline, every horse is an individual with its own unique talent and character.

16. Gender

The steadiest of genders is known to be the castrated male horse, that is a gelding. Mares are more prone to hormonal fluctuations which can cause mood swings when they are in season – though there are many riders that swear by mares and a good one can be brilliant. Stallions are exclusively the preserve of professional handlers, and not suitable as a first horse.

The saying goes, “You tell a gelding, ask a stallion, and let the mare think it’s all her idea”.

17. Trial period

Not all vendors will permit it, but it’s always worth asking if you can have a prospective horse on trial for a short period. This will enable you to see what it is like away from the familiarities of its own home, how it behaves in company, out in the open, on the ground, and in the stable. You’ll need full insurance to cover the horse for this period, as well as a contract stating the rights on both sides.

18. Buyer beware

With any purchase, there can be unscrupulous sellers. Thankfully these are in the minority, but some people will try to take advantage of trusting and particularly inexperienced buyers. Don’t be rushed into any decisions, and ensure you have clear arrangements regarding deposits, trial periods, costs, and insurance. You should also have a sales contract stating purchase terms and conditions, and a signed receipt.

As a buyer, you may have rights if you believe you have been sold a horse which is not as the vendor led you to believe. (For example, stereotypies such as windsucking, or behavioral problems should be declared). If this is the case, you will need to seek professional legal advice.

19. Passport

In the UK, since 2003 all horses must have a passport – regardless of the fact that most people never travel them abroad, with large fines for those who fail to comply. It is illegal for an equine to be sold without one, so always be suspicious if there is no passport, whatever reason is given, and check thoroughly that all the markings and whorls tally.

In the US, a passport is only necessary for those horses competing internationally.

20. Microchip

In the UK, all equines are legally required to be microchipped, which is a permanent form of identification. The horse’s microchip means you can check its passport details, and also whether a horse is legally for sale – as some horses are stolen and sold on.

In the US, microchipping is not mandatory unless the horses are competing at the national level or higher.

21. Veterinary history

Before buying any horse, it’s a wise plan not only to ask the vendor if the horse has had any veterinary issues but also to contact their vet to check. Many conditions will not affect the horse for the intended purpose, but it’s important to know if there are any existing issues or past problems that may rear their head at a later date. It could also invalidate your insurance as pre-existing conditions are likely to be excluded.

22. Insurance

Insurance is often considered an optional extra but it is a significant addition to the budget. Horses are large expensive animals and if something goes wrong either with them, or they cause injury to someone or something (for example knocking over a person, or kicking out at a car), costs can quickly escalate.

As well as covering your horse, it’s strongly recommended that you take out public liability insurance, because if your new horse causes damage you may be liable to pay compensation – and personal injury can run into six figures.

23. Why do you want a horse?

This is a really important question for anyone to consider before getting a horse. It’s a given that you love them and want to care for them. There are obvious emotional and physical benefits. Perhaps you have spent years honing your skills at a riding school and are ready to branch out on your own. Maybe you want the camaraderie to belong to a barn.

But consider, too, the downsides. If you are work-shy, a horse is not for you – you need to be prepared to get up early, finish late, and always attend to your horse’s needs before your own, however tired you are. You may need to work harder in your job to pay for the considerable expenses of keeping a horse.

Having a horse is the most wonderful privilege, but it’s not a commitment to be entered into lightly.

24. Vet fees

Veterinary fees are typically an area where horse owners like to bury their heads in the sand. Much like our own health, we rather hope that they won’t get sick or suffer injury. Alas, horses have an uncanny knack for hurting themselves – most often just playing in the paddock – so you need to be prepared that you will surely, at some point, need to shell out on some vet care. Having some of the best pet insurance can help offset the cost.

It might be as low-grade as treating mud fever in winter, or a supplement to help their digestion, but medication for horses doesn’t come cheap.

25. Rehoming

For those considering getting a horse of their own, take a look at rehoming sites. There are hundreds of horses taken in by charities and welfare organizations every year – and one of them may be your perfect match. These charities tend to be responsible for securing an ideal forever home, and charge a minimal fee – usually with the commitment that you can send the horse back to them if it doesn’t work out.

Racehorses that don’t make the grade on the track will often go to a retraining organization where you will be able to buy them at a fraction of the cost of their original value and give them a second career in a loving home.

26. Temperament

A good temperament in a horse is the holy grail. Whatever a horse’s physical limitations, a willing and friendly personality can override almost anything. Especially for a first horse, it’s wise to steer clear of the “quirky”, “temperamental” or “hot” types, as they are best left to the professionals who know how to get the best out of them.

27. Where to buy

Horses are sold through many platforms and all over the world. Elite riders will import top horses from overseas, while most people tend to set a limit on the distance they are prepared to travel.

Word of mouth is the most reliable way to find a nice horse because it’s like having a personal referee vouching for the suitability of a particular horse for your specific needs and level.

You can buy at auction, where you will have the excitement of bidding wars, but these are best for the experienced. If you feel you do want to buy at auction, attend a few first without the intention to buy to get used to the format, and always take a knowledgeable equestrian with you to assess the suitability of any horse you want to buy.

Rehoming centers are great sources of horses looking for a loving forever home – at a low budget.

For novice buyers, always go and see any horse you are interested in – it’s easy for professional dealers to hide what they don’t want prospective buyers to see when they’re simply viewing on a screen.

28. Pre-purchase veterinary examination

Never buy a horse without getting a pre-purchase veterinary exam. Explain to the vet what you want to do with the horse and they will analyze it accordingly so that it is fit for purpose. For instance, if you want to do recreational trail riding, the vet will assess the horse differently than if you wanted to do grand prix dressage.

Always organize the vet yourself and do not use the seller’s vet, to avoid conflict of interest.

Bear in mind that the vet can only assess the horse on that specific day and not predict the future – however, they will be able to point out conformational defects that might cause problems down the line.

29. Emergency fund

If you’re on the lookout for a horse, you’ve likely done some budgeting and know the typical monthly costs. However, horses always manage to throw up something unexpected, and they don’t give you any notice. Consider putting a bit of extra money away as an emergency fund so that when an expensive situation arises, you’re not caught short.

30. How often you can ride

Horses love routine. It’s not great for their fitness if you can only manage weekends, or you ride sporadically. As a general rule, they should be kept ticking over being ridden three to six times a week.

While horse ownership is a longed-for dream on the horizon, you may think you will ride regularly, but is it really feasible? Will you have the motivation to go down to the barn on a winter’s morning before dawn? Can you fit riding around your job and family?

31. A sales contract

It may seem very official, especially if you’re never intending to move out of the leisure-riding category or the price tag is low, but a sales contract is important to protect you. Once you have agreed on a purchase price, make this agreement official on paper. The contract should include the terms of the sale and any warranties the seller has agreed to. Within a certain time frame, you may be able to return a horse or swap it for a different one if it’s not right for you. There are lots of online forms you can use as a template.

You’ll need details such as the date of completion, purchase price, any stereotypies of behavioral problems disclosed, and when and how you can return the horse for breach.

32. The next stage

Having a horse is a massive commitment in time, energy, and finances, so every issue needs careful consideration. But the benefits are wonderfully rewarding. Take time to allow your new horse to settle into his unfamiliar surroundings and build a positive partnership together. Enjoy the ride.

Caring for a horse is not just a thrilling adventure, it’s also a full-time job, responsibility, and, yes, sometimes a little bit of a headache. How we wish horses could talk! But the first step is understanding your horse’s needs as the key to unlocking a magical bond with your four-legged friend.

First and foremost is a horse’s right to the five freedoms: from hunger, pain, injury, fear and to behave in a way that a horse naturally does. All our dealings with our horses should be in the light of this. Also having things like the best horse shampoos and the best horse clippers will help you along the way.

In this article, we’ll trot through some fun and practical tips to keep your horse happy and healthy – whatever the weather, our goals, and the type of horse.

32 tips for taking care of your horse

1. Feeding principles

Knowing what and how much to feed your horse is an inexact science but you should follow some basic principles. Maintain your horse at an appropriate weight, with sufficient energy for his work while replicating natural feeding patterns.

The rules for feeding horses are to feed little and often, with plenty of roughage and some succulents. Feed according to your horse’s size and workload, always monitoring his condition and well-being. Introduce changes to the diet gradually.

Horses love routine, so feed at the same time every day, always leaving an hour after feeding before doing strenuous exercise.

2. Body condition scoring

In the West, equine obesity is a welfare issue – some 50% are considered obese in the UK. And this puts them at risk of a host of health issues. But just like our own bodies, we can overlook weight gain (or loss) if it happens gradually. An objective way of assessing your horse’s fat covering to determine whether they are a healthy weight is to monitor them on a regular basis – say fortnightly. We call it “fat scoring” or “body condition scoring”.

There are three areas to score: the neck, body, and hindquarters. Look online to find a fat scoring chart, and measure your horse from 0–5 in each area. You’re looking for a score of 2.5–3, with some breeds, such as fit and healthy thoroughbreds, likely to sit at the lower end due to their natural physique.

You can also use a weight tape alongside the fat scoring.

3. You can lead a horse to water...

“You can lead a horse to water but you can’t make it drink,” so the proverb goes. Horses may not want to drink just because you’ve thrust a bucket under their nose. Horses should have access to clean, fresh water at all times so they can avail themselves of it whenever they choose.

4. Feeding forage

If your horse could text you, they would definitely send you a message to tell you to keep their snacks fully stocked for them.

Forage – grass, hay, haylage, straw, and chaffs – should be the mainstay of a horse’s diet, as a grazing animal. Equines have evolved to eat little and often, so in nature, they will be chewing on forage for up to 18 hours a day.

Grass is the most natural source, but it is often not available at certain times of the year or if a horse is stabled, so provide hay or haylage instead, ad-lib if possible. If your horse is liable to put on weight, you can use a small-hole haynet or a grazing muzzle to slow him down while not starving him.

Forage has so many benefits. It helps keep the horse warm, as it creates heat when digested. It reduces the risk of colic and can minimize the likelihood of ulcers occurring by creating a buffer for stomach acid.

5. Farrier visits

Whether or not your horse wears shoes or goes barefoot, he needs regular attention from a good, trained farrier – typically every four to six weeks. A horse’s hooves, like our nails, grow continuously and so need trimming to keep them in good nick and for the horse’s legs to be well balanced. It affects everything from the horse’s gait to their risk of injury to the tendons and ligaments. Imagine running in stilettos...

6. Signs of lameness

Lameness can be a sign of pain in any part of the horse’s body. Often when we think a horse has a leg problem it’s actually the back.

Limping is an obvious sign, but with milder lameness, horses will often give behavioral indications that all is not well. Are they resting a leg or shifting their weight around? Be alert to any changes, such as aggression, lethargy, or resentment of tack being put on. They may start to buck, rear, or refuse at fences. They may not want to accept the bit, head-toss, or be reluctant to work. Tail-swishing is another indicator – though this may just be irritation to flies.

Always try to listen to what your horse is telling you through their behavior.

7. Saddle fit

A correctly fitting saddle is so important for your horse’s comfort, freedom, and development. The right saddle for your horse should distribute the rider’s weight evenly, without pressure points, clearing the wither and spine sufficiently and also matching the horse’s length of back. It should not rock, tilt, or slip.

Don’t imagine that just any saddle will fit any horse; alas, it’s often a case of trial and error to find what suits. A professional saddle fitter can provide advice (they often sell saddles, too), as a poorly fitting saddle can not only cause injury but make the horse resistant and likely to manifest behavioral problems as it tries to evade the pain.

8. Bridles and bits

The design and fit of the bridle affect the horse’s comfort and, ultimately, performance. Horses have very sensitive facial features, and pressure points in the wrong places can cause them irritation. Many bridles nowadays are anatomically shaped to give room in the right places to avoid sitting on nerves or delicate bones.

The bit, too, tends to be a personal matter. Some competitive societies, particularly dressage, have rules on prohibited bits, but within that, you’ll want to check a few out to see which your horse goes best in. Some prefer a straight bar, others a jointed bit. Some like a sweet-iron; others like plastic. Some horses are strong and need more control, others are very light in the mouth. There is a lot of choice out there – a bit fitter can give you advice according to the size and shape of your horse’s mouth, palate, tongue, and lips.

9. Turnout

Although modern domestic horses have very different lives from their ancestors – and have been bred over millennia to do so – they have evolved naturally to graze and roam. Turning out where possible allows them to exhibit their natural behaviors.

Turnout has many benefits to their mental and physical health. Horses that are turned out are less likely to have stable stereotypies such as box-walking and crib-biting. Among other conditions, horses that are prone to colic and ulcers tend to thrive with more turnout.

It allows them to let off a bit of steam, and who doesn’t love to see their horse at liberty in a grassy paddock?

10. Dental checks

We know we need regular check-ups at the dentist, and so does your horse. Annually if possible, and more often if the dentist needs to monitor potential problems. Horses are such stoic animals they often do not show they are in pain, and issues in the mouth are hard for us to spot.

Horses’ teeth are always growing throughout their lives and although they are worn down by grazing this can cause sharp edges. This means they need floating (or rasping) to prevent them from causing lesions on the sides of the mouth – and pain when chewing or with the bit.

Regular dental check-ups will keep your horse eating efficiently, avoid biting problems, and prevent the likelihood of tooth loss and issues as the horse ages.

11. Companionship

A normal horse is never alone out in the wild, and companionship of their own kind is considered an essential freedom for an equine. Our domesticated horses should always be able to see and touch another horse, or other equine, for their overall health, happiness, and wellbeing.

As herd animals, it is ideal if horses can be turned out in the company of others, allowing them to interact. However, this is not always practical or safe. In such cases, being in fields next door to other horses, in sight of their own species, is a solution.

12. Deworming programme

Worms are internal parasites that can cause serious health problems if left untreated.

In times gone by, owners used to worm horses routinely. However, veterinary advice has shifted to a tailored deworming plan which is determined by tests and then targeted treatment when necessary. Routine blanket worming has resulted in some parasites becoming resistant to the drugs.

Another important aspect of controlling worms is good pasture management – removing droppings from the fields at least every three days, ideally daily.

13. Hoofcare

The old adage of “no foot, no horse” is well worth heeding. Besides regular farrier visits, your horse’s hooves need daily care and attention to keep them healthy. This varies according to the season – they can get dry and brittle in the hotter months, while abscesses, soft hoof walls, and thrush are common in a wet winter.

Pick your horse’s feet out once a day. This will ensure you keep them free of any stones or sticks that may lodge in the foot, but also means you keep an eye on the general hoof condition, spotting any cracks, splits, or potential issues.

14. Sheath cleaning

A horse’s sheath protects his penis when it's tucked in (that is not urinating or breeding). A waxy substance called smegma helps to lubricate this area, but horses can produce too much which can cause what is called a “bean”. This can cause obstruction, making the pee spray out over the legs, which in turn attracts flies.

Sheath cleaning is a technical and tricky skill, so we’d recommend using a vet or professional sheath cleaner. For most horses a yearly clean is sufficient, but always monitor the area.

Owners of mares, you are not exempt from monitoring this sensitive area! Mares don’t produce smegma, but their teats can get a build-up of sweat and dirt which causes irritation and may need careful cleaning.

15. Bedding

Your choice of bedding will depend on a number of factors, such as whether the horse has any allergies, cost, whether you deep-litter, whether your horse eats it, and so on. Whatever bedding you choose – and there are advantages and disadvantages of each type – make sure you find good-quality, dust-free, non-toxic, and non-irritating products.

16. Mucking out options

Oh, one of the joys of owning horses! Think of mucking out as your early-morning gym class, because it certainly can get the heart pumping. While mucking out to keep your horse’s stable clean is essential, there are several different systems. Most people opt for a full daily muck-out, where you remove all the droppings and bedding soiled with urine. They will also skip out any droppings during the day. This is the cleanest system.

A part muck-out is when you remove the droppings during the week and do a full muck-out at weekends. This is a good time-saver during the week when most people have less time.

Deep litter works best when you have a large stable or barn. You remove the droppings and add fresh bedding on top. It is economical in time and money but can give rise to dust spores, a smell of manure, and potentially other health issues.

17. Paddock safety

Turnout is not as simple as letting your horse out in a field. Paddocks must be horse-safe, securely fenced, and free from poisonous plants, rubbish, or dangerous objects (for example, harrows). Check, too, for rabbit holes or badger setts, as these could prove disastrous if a horse puts his foot down one.

There should be a supply of fresh, clean water. Poo-pick at least twice a week – daily is ideal. This controls parasites and prevents soiled areas of grass.

18. Blanketing

Blanketing – or rugging as it’s called in Britain – is a bone of contention among horse owners. Horses are very good at maintaining their body temperature at around 38ºC come rain or shine. But we tend to anthropomorphize the situation. When we feel cold, we assume the horse does too. But their coat is a naturally brilliant form of insulation – you’ll often see horses with snow on their backs, which like on the roof of the house, means that they are well insulated. Grazing (digesting) and moving help to generate body heat.

There are problems associated with over-blanketing. Blankets can rub and need to be checked on a daily basis. Horses tend to build up weight during the warmer months, stored up for winter when they expend a bit more so it’s a natural obesity control.

Horses that may benefit from blankets are veterans, those with dental problems that make eating tricky, sick horses, clipped or lightweight breeds such as thoroughbreds, and those that have restricted movement – ie they are stabled or in a tiny paddock.

19. Summer care

Horses will seek respite from the sun during hot days, so it’s important to provide shade, either by a man-made shelter or trees.

In hot weather, horses may drink up to 60 liters (over four regular buckets) in a day, which is double their usual intake. Always provide clean, fresh water to prevent dehydration. You could provide a salt lick to provide nutrients lost through sweating.

Consider switching the system for horses that are usually stabled at night and out during the day, so that they are in the shade during the hottest hours and benefit from turnout when it’s cooler.

Flies are the bane of a horse’s life during summer, and their tails can only do so much protective swishing. Use a fly rug and mask, and a high-quality fly repellent. Regular poo-picking will also help ensure flies don’t amass.

Horses need their SPF too! Particularly horses with pink skin will need suncream applied to prevent painful sunburn.

20. Winter precautions

Below 5ºC is when most horses – with a full coat – typically start to feel the cold, so you may want to consider a rug when it nears freezing. Watch out for signs that your horse is cold, such as being tucked up and looking depressed or lethargic.

Horses generate heat by eating, so ensure there is plenty of hay or other forage, especially when there is minimal grass, or it is frosty or snowy. Poor doers will need supplementary feed in winter, too.

Horses tend to drink less in winter so dehydration can be an issue. Always make sure that their water supply is not frozen (leaving a football in the trough works wonders in preventing ice from forming).

21. Sensory hairs

A horse’s whiskers and sensory hairs are amazing antennae-like structures, helping them to navigate the world around them. Whisker follicles have a particularly rich blood supply and nerve connections, which makes any sensation to the whiskers have a strong effect – even a change of air movements.

These sensory hairs are found on the muzzle, eyelids, and inner ears and are vital in helping them detect threats and perceive their surroundings. For this reason, you should not trim the whiskers or the inner ear hairs for cosmetic reasons, as they are an important sensory organ.

22. Poisonous plants

Horses tend to favor plants that are not poisonous, but if grazing is scarce or they get a taste for something (the crunch of an acorn, for example), they may eat poisonous plants. Alas, many are common in our fields. These include ragwort, foxglove, deadly nightshade, hemlock, and buttercups – with varying degrees of toxicity.

There are also many poisonous trees, such as sycamore, yew, oak, privet, and laurel.

You need to take a zero-tolerance approach. Uproot all poisonous plants before they go to seed, and burn them. Cut down poisonous trees or fence off the area so the horses cannot reach them.

23. Stabling arrangements

Stables should be large enough for your horse to lie down and get up easily, as well as turn around. This will depend on the size of the horse, but an average horse will need 12ft x 12ft, and an average pony 10ft x 10ft.

Horses should always be able to interact with another equine, at least by sight.

Good ventilation is crucial, to minimize respiratory problems. A height of at least 3ft above the horse’s ears will allow for adequate airflow. Windows and vents can be used to improve airflow.

Always provide a constant supply of fresh water.

24. Physical wellbeing

Owning a horse means being responsible for his well-being, which includes ensuring he is physically comfortable. You should be monitoring his weight, movement, activity levels, acceptance of the bit, and any changes to his gait, and eating or drinking habits.

As a grazing animal which is essentially an athlete, horses need daily exercise. They will naturally move around if they live in a herd in a large field, but most domesticated horses will need regular exercise – typically ridden – to keep their bones and hooves strong, their digestion working well, and their circulation tip-top.

25. Mental wellbeing

“Happiness” is a difficult emotion to assess in a horse, but it’s our job to work out if they are in a positive emotional state. A healthy, contented horse will graze most of the day, interact with other horses, mutually grooming (or an owner can groom them to provide some part of this need), be happy and attentive when exercised, and be relaxed.

Tension, depression, lethargy, inappetence, stable stereotypies, isolation from other horses, grumpiness, or aggression are all signs that something is amiss.

26. Ageing horses

A horse is considered a veteran from the age of 16, but many live and stay active well into their thirties. From the mid-teens you should be alert to the signs of aging so that you can help your horse grow old in the best possible way, adapting to manage his needs.

Monitor your horse’s weight, appetite, how he copes with exercise, stiffness, teeth, coat, and consult your vet if any concerns. And when it comes to the end of life, remember the vet’s adage: “Better a week too early than a day too late.”

27. Coat care

A glossy coat is a sign that your horse is looking and feeling great. To maintain a healthy luster, you need to work up that elbow grease! Regular brushing is important for removing dead undercoats and encouraging new growth. It also stimulates the natural oils that horses produce.

Daily grooming has the added benefit of helping you to spot any lumps, bumps, and cuts. You can use grooming products such as shampoos, conditioners and show sheen to boost the shine.

A good diet is key to a healthy coat. You might also want to add oil, linseed, or flax to their feed, but consult a vet or nutritionist before making any changes.

28. Manes and tails

Different horse owners have contrasting tastes when it comes to the manes and tails – and there are different rules according to different breeds. Some riders love a neatly pulled mane and tail, while others prefer to braid or leave it au naturel. Cutting the tails to a couple of inches above the fetlock helps keep it out of the mud and improves the overall look.

To keep manes and tails tangle-free, apply a detangler or conditioner a couple of times a week. Be gentle in combing through so that you don’t pull out too much hair. With an older horse, these hairs may never grow back.

29. Clipping

There are myriad schools of thought on clipping. Many horses that work in hot climates are clipped out all year round. For most horses, the sign that they need clipping is that their thick coat makes them sweat excessively, and it is then difficult to wash and dry them off efficiently. It’s uncomfortable for a horse to be left damp and cold on a cool day. But they may not need a full clip – a blanket or trace clip is ample for many horses, and gives them their warm winter coat on the parts of their body where they don’t naturally sweat.

Young and old horses and those not in work are unlikely to need clipping.

A traditional tip for a horse at work during a British winter is not to clip after January, as you may damage the summer coat coming through – though the warmer months still feel a long way off!

30. Emergency fund

Horse owners need to run a tight budget as costs can quickly escalate. There are the expected weekly and monthly costs, but even presuming these include insurance, you never know when you’re going to need to dig into a fighting fund. It’s well worth putting aside a small sum of money into a kitty each month so that you’re financially ready for the unexpected. One thing’s for sure with horses – they’re unpredictable.

31. Biting insects

Flies can vary from being an irritation to causing serious, even fatal, illness. Most biting insects are simply a nuisance, but they can cause allergic reactions, painful bites, hair loss, and intense scratching.

However, some of the more exotic species – such as the Tsetse fly – can spread potentially fatal diseases.

The best protection is via fly rugs, fly repellent, fly masks, and to remove all droppings regularly. Situate the muck heap downwind and as far away from where the horses live as is practical.

32. Exercise

Horses have evolved to move almost constantly, so as their guardians, it’s our job to make sure our horses have sufficient daily exercise. They are designed to move slowly all day long, with occasional bursts of energy.

A lack of routine exercise will have a detrimental effect on their respiratory, cardio, neurological, lymphatic, and digestive systems.

Exercise doesn’t have to be solely ridden – you can count lunge, long-rein work at liberty, play in the paddock, water treadmill, and turn out as exercise, keeping their joints and muscles in tiptop shape.

With little fanfare and close to zero resources, the Best Friends Animal Society has grown from humble beginnings back in 1984 to become the largest no-kill animal shelter in the United States.

What began as a small mission in Utah has now grown into a large-scale national movement. The sanctuary partners with shelters and rescue groups across the United States as they seek to end the unnecessary killing of stray animals.

And it’s working. As the movement has gained momentum, tremendous progress has been made. The Best Friends Animal Society and its partners have increased the national save rate from 50% in 2014 to 79% in 2020.

With this non-profit animal welfare organization now believed to have saved the lives of close to three million animals, we go behind the scenes and meet the Best Friends.

• Much Love Animal Rescue: The California-based shelter that won’t rest until euthanasia is a thing of the past
• Five celebrity rescue dogs - pooches from the pound that found fame
• How to adopt a dog

Best Friends Animal Society: Where it all began

It’s been 37 years since a group of over 30 friends came together to bring their dream of creating a sanctuary for abandoned and abused animals to life. Having first met 20 years earlier, this self-proclaimed motley crew spanned a range of professions from real estate agents to architects – even a philosophy graduate. 

The group had gone their separate ways but were reunited by their quest to create a better world. They sought to make sense of how humans could create companion animals, invite them into our environment, and yet often fail them in the most basic way.

Feeling a genuine responsibility towards these loyal and loving creatures, the group vowed to pursue a better life for both animals and themselves. Their quest led them to the stunning surroundings of Red Rock Canyon near Kanab, Utah, where they began to build what is now the largest no-kill animal sanctuary in the United States.

Viewed as radicals for rejecting society’s norms, the group says they were willing to shake off their previous lives in favor of following their passion for rescuing animals. When asked why they chose Red Rock, founding member Gabriel de Peyer says:

“If we were going to be a voice crying out in the wilderness, we thought, 'let’s find a really nice wilderness'.” Another founder, Steven Hirano, believes the group has become so popular because the Best Friends live their truth. “What is it about this group that’s so attractive? The integrity runs right through us. We do what we are.”

Best Friends Animal Society: On a mission

Aiming to bring about an end to homeless pets, the Best Friends Animal Society has one golden rule: to treat all living things as they would wish to be treated. It’s a rule that founding friend Silva Battista feels strongly about.

“If you don’t understand or accept the basic principle of kindness, you won’t get anything else right. It is an unbroken continuum that encompasses all life, including the animals.”

With a commitment to demonstrating kindness and compassion towards all living creatures, the group judges their effectiveness on the extent to which animal’s lives are saved and improved.  

“When people no longer say ‘It’s only a dog’, that will be social change,” says Cyrus Mejia, one of the original 31 friends. Their tenacity over nearly four decades has paid off, with their message continuing to gain momentum.

The society continues to grow its network of partners, with over 3,200 public and private shelters, rescue groups, spay/neuter organizations, and other animal welfare groups across 50 states coming on board to stop the killing of homeless animals. Together, they have saved the lives of millions of animals and are seeking to make the whole nation no-kill by 2025.

Best Friends Animal Society: Inside the sanctuary

On any given day, up to 1,600 animals call the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary their home-between-homes. From dogs and cats to bunnies and birds, creatures great and small are brought to the loving refuge of the sanctuary from all around the country as they await adoption.

Many have been abandoned, some have never had homes, while others are completely wild. No matter their background, species, shape, or size, Best Friends welcomes them with open arms, working to rehabilitate them so they can be placed with foster or permanent families. For the few who aren’t able to be rehomed, the crew at the sanctuary becomes their forever family.

Spanning 3,700 acres, with an additional 33,000 acres leased from the United States Bureau of Land Management, the sanctuary is divided into animal areas that allow the 30,000 plus visitors that come through each year to visit the animals of their choosing in their own gated communities. 

The staff at Dogtown care for around 400 dogs and puppies every day, with most canines living in carefully chosen pairs or groups. All dogs have access to outdoor spaces, where they can get plenty of fresh air and exercise. The indoor areas are well stocked with the best dog beds and toys. 

Over at Cat World, 600 kitties live across 11 buildings, all designed for their comfort and safety. Enclosed outdoor ‘catios’ provide room to climb and daily activities take care of their physical and mental needs. Full of fun cat scratching posts and games aplenty, these feline furkids receive all the love and attention they need on their way to their forever home.

There’s also a state-of-the-art animal clinic that provides top-notch care for all of the animals at the sanctuary. It has been designed to ensure all the animals are as comfortable and relaxed as possible when undergoing routine checkups or medical procedures.

Best Friends Animal Society: Get involved 

If you’ve fallen as much in love with this organization as we have and want to get involved, there are plenty of ways you can support the work of this amazing animal sanctuary.

Whether you’re looking to volunteer, adopt or foster, attend an event, visit the sanctuary, or sponsor an animal, the crew over at Best Friends Animal Society are always more than happy to take your call. 

Visit www.bestfriends.org to read more about how you can get involved. 

Thanks to the best horse clippers you can get this essential job done quickly and safely. Whether you’re competing in events or just wanting to hit the trails for some quality time with your trusty steed, a good trim will ensure your horse always looks their best.

If you don’t have much experience with body clipping horses, then choosing the right horse clippers can feel like a daunting experience. But the good news is, it doesn’t have to be. Thinking through a few basic questions can help ensure you get the right clippers for the job.

The first thing to consider is the temperament of your horse and how calm and settled they’re able to stay around loud noises. If you have a very skitterish horse on your hands or one that isn’t too keen on getting clipped, choose a clipper with a low noise output of around 120 volts.

Next, think about what you’re wanting to use the clippers for. If you’re wanting to do small trims now and again, then you won’t need anything too powerful, but for full-body clipping sessions, a clipper that lets you adjust speeds, change blades, and has a good strokes-per-minute output will make life a lot easier.

Quality and budget are two other areas that are important when selecting horse clippers. Many of the best horse clippers will easily set you back as much as you would expect to pay on a decent pair of human clippers and while that can be a turn-off, choosing the highest quality clippers you can in your price range can save you money in the long run. Look for solid and durable clippers that will go the distance.

Now that you know a little bit more about what you’re looking for, let’s take a closer look at the best horse clippers lining the shelves...

Lister is one of the UK’s leading manufacturers of clipping products, hold the royal warrant, and are recognized internationally for their quality products being of great value. The Lister Star is a medium-duty clipper, powerful enough to complete multiple full body clips – it’s the ideal handset for owners with up to three horses. The advanced motor ensures you get a constant working speed, even if the coat is really thick, which helps to give a smart and professional finished look. It has a replaceable filter that allows for efficient ventilation and cooling – which prevents any discomfort to your horse – and the enclosed gearbox makes it low maintenance and lengthens its life. The self-cleaning head prevents blades from overheating, and it has a user-friendly tensioning system that makes it easy to set the correct blade tension. It also has a removable and replaceable air filter, so cleaning and maintenance are easy.

The lightweight and slim casing fits comfortably in small hands and it has grips on either side for improved handling and control, making it a favourite of ladies and teenagers. The lead is 16ft, which gives you lots of flexibility and room for movement.

The blade included is 3-inches wide so you’re able to cover a large area quickly, and it has a cutting length of 1.4mm – this is comparable to a size 15 clipper blade. This kit also includes a 2.1oz bottle of Lister R15 Oil, clipper cleaning brush, and a spare filter; backed by a one-year manufacturer's limited warranty.

Wahl is a well-known quality clipper brand with a wide range of clippers, trimmers, attachments and necessary accessories. This particular set, in addition to the Bravura clipper, includes a 5-in-1 fine blade set, six plastic attachment guide combs, a cleaning brush, blade oil, instruction book, charge stand and charger, plus a soft storage case. It’s a pretty comprehensive kit with everything you need, and the 5-in-1 blade set gives you real flexibility with your clipping.

The clipper handset itself is small (7-inches) and lightweight (8.8 ounces), so is ideal for trimming bridle paths, ears, muzzles or tidying up feathers, but some users with light-coated horses report to have successfully completed a full clip. Being so lightweight is a great advantage as your hand is less likely to fatigue, meaning you can clip comfortably for longer, and the handset’s grip surface is designed in such a way that it’s really easy to hold. It’s simple to maneuver and suitable for any experience level – you don’t need to be a clipping master to get good results with these.

These clippers will run cordlessly at full power for 90 minutes after a 60-minute charge. When it has run out of charge – there is a handy battery indicator on the front – you can either recharge fully in one hour or, if you’re not quite finished, you can attach the cord, plug them into the mains and continue. They will also automatically provide more power when you get to tougher areas, but they stay cool without the need for a cooling spray.

The Bravura is available in a choice of five colours (berry, gunmetal, pink, purple or turquoise), which is a fun touch, but handy too for telling yours apart if anyone on the yard has a similar set. The kit comes with a one-year guarantee, which is typical of most quality brands.

The Heiniger Xplorer is a modern-looking and powerful cordless clipper. Its battery is contained within the handset, meaning you get a totally cable-free clipping experience, which makes it stand out from other cordless clippers that might have an external battery pack that you can attach to your belt, for example. The battery provides up to two hours running time from an hour’s charge. The charger also shows you how much the battery is charged and the fast recharge time means with a second battery you could clip continuously. 

The handle is really slim making it easy to handle and the handset is light for its size – they are slightly longer and heavier than the Lister Star clippers. These clippers are also considerably quieter than most of a similar size, making them ideal for owners of nervous horses. Being a sealed unit prevents hair and dirt getting inside, which reduces servicing costs, and less heat is generated, so minimises operating problems. Most users can’t find enough good things to say about this model from Heiniger.

This brand of clippers is at the higher end of the market, but it has a great reputation and offer products that are built to last. This particular medium-duty clipper would be an ideal investment for an owner of two or three horses, who is clipping fairly regularly. This clipper comes with a three-year guarantee, which is the longest we’ve come across while searching for the best selection of clippers.

The Wahl Pro Ion cordless clipper can be used for light body clipping as well as trimming ears, faces and fetlocks. For a small, cordless handset, it offers substantial power and speed without producing additional heat or noise – great for your horse’s comfort during clipping.

The battery gives two hours of run time and there is a 15-minute quick-charge feature that provides an extra 10 minutes of clipping – handy if you’re really close to finishing when they run out or if you just have a small job to do. This clipper has an adjustable blade (#30-15-10), which gives you plenty of choice if you’re just trimming, and it operates at 6,000 strokes per minute, making the job fast. The handset is ergonomic and comfortable, although slightly heavier than other similar models.

As well as the handset, you get a storage case, charging cord, styling comb, cleaning brush, blade oil, stainless-steel scissors, and attachment guide combs – so you’ll be ready to start straightaway. A bonus how-to DVD means that even the most novice clipper can feel confident using this set. The clipper is also backed by a one-year warranty.

The Masterclip V-Series is a variable speed heavy duty horse clipper with a sleek, modern look. It offers a fast and hassle-free clip – it’s ideal for novice clippers, too, as it’s lightweight for a heavy-duty clipper (just 1.8lb) and easy to use. It has a non-slip handle and is shaped to best fit your hand. It comes with one set of 1.5mm blades, a bottle of clipper oil and a handy carry case. While it’s mains-powered with a long cord, you can purchase a separate compatible battery pack, which will allow you to clip cordlessly – the best of both worlds.

The V-series has a brushless motor and variable clipping speeds – 1,500–2,00rpm. The benefits of a brushless motor include a high torque to weight ratio, which gives an increased performance as well as increased efficiency and reliability. It also means high levels of efficiency as there’s less friction, so there’s more power, but with less weight and noise. Users do say that this model is quiet, which is a real bonus if you have a nervous or young and inexperienced horse. Brushless motors typically have less wearing parts than traditional style motors, which makes them easier to maintain.

These clippers have a two-year warranty, which is longer than the majority of manufacturers. 

With a powerful 500W motor and six-speed control, this electric horse clipper gives a professional trim every time. Featuring up to 2,400 strokes per minute and a comfortable grip for precise cutting, it’s easy to use and has a simple operation mode that makes it great if you’re new to grooming.

We love that this clipper comes in a hard carry case for easy portability with a clean brush, replacement carbon brush, and 100ml bottle of oil so you can keep the clipper lubricated. The blades are made of high-quality steel making them tough and hardy and extending their lifespan, plus there’s a rotatable button to adjust the tension.

The aluminum head and rugged reinforced nylon PVC body reduce noise and vibration while the cooling air fan keeps the blades from overheating while in use. There are six-speed settings to choose from with the lower ones being great for precision trimming around sensitive areas and the higher ones offering a fast trim over the entire body. 

This heavy-duty cordless clipper can run for up to two hours on a single charge, which is a more than fair amount of time for a large handset. Having a lithium ion battery means the power is consistent throughout the running time, and it only loses 3% of its charge a month while not in use, compared with an NiMH battery that could lose 30%. 

Unlike some of the other products on the market, to change clipping lengths you’ll need to switch blades. The positives are that they’re reported to be easily changeable and the clipper is compatible with all A5 detachable blades, which are easy to get hold of and come in a wide range of cutting lengths. The wide blade that’s included offers balance as well as power. For a heavy-duty clipper it’s particularly lightweight, and the design looks comfortable. 

Being cordless means you can work away without worrying about power leads getting tangled up or even needing to be in a location with mains power. It’s sold with a battery, power adapter and charging stand, which can charge a second battery pack separately or while installed in the handset, allowing you to clip all day uninterrupted – if you needed to. It also has a fast-charging capability and a year’s warranty.

Some users report that this handset can get hot, but this is to be expected and clipper oil should solve the problem quickly and easily.

How to choose the best horse clippers

Clippers are split into four categories – heavy duty, medium duty, light duty and trimmers. Heavy-duty clippers are ideal for professionals, busy yards or if you have a horse with very thick, coarse hair. They tend to be slightly heavier and larger, but have extra speed and power to make clipping any horse easy work. Due to the need for extra power they are usually mains powered. Medium-duty clippers are a popular choice and in most cases are ideal for those clipping up to five horses. Most medium-duty handsets are light and easy to use, and there is a wide choice of cordless and mains-powered handsets. Light-duty horse clippers are only really suitable for horses with very fine and easy coats to clip or if you plan to use them for a quick tidy. Finally, cordless trimmers are the ideal solution for small areas, such as tidying legs. 

When choosing a handset, it’s important to consider…

• The size of your hands – what size clippers are you realistically able to hold comfortably?
• The number of horses you have, their hair type and personality – this will determine what duty will be best, but also whether you may be better to opt for a cordless or quieter model
• Access to mains electricity – cordless options are usually more expensive and you need to remember to charge the batteries
• Brand quality, reputation and price – there are many cheap clippers on the market, but these are often best avoided

Learning how to clip a horse is well worth it, as is owning a pair of the best horse clippers. Many people will clip their horses in the winter months of the year as it naturally grows longer. Clipping off some or all of your horse’s winter coat will help prevent your horse from getting too warm and sweating profusely while exercising. However, the process isn’t always very straightforward when learning how to clip a horse in the first place. So to help, here we bring you everything you need to know about how to clip a horse.

Before starting a clip

You should adhere to some guidance on wearing the right clothing when clipping a horse. Firstly, wear sturdy footwear, ideally with steel toecaps, and an up-to-standard riding helmet to protect your head as best as possible, as horses can react adversely when being clipped. Wearing overalls is also a good idea in order to help prevent horse hair from getting under your clothes and making you itchy.

You should also make sure you are clipping your horse in a place with good light and safe surroundings. Outdoors obviously provides the best natural light, while indoors is best if conditions are inclement. But most of all, you need to pick a location where your horse is relaxed. 

• Best fly rugs for horses: Six outfits for your horse
• Best riding boots: Long or short, find the pair that suits you best
• Best riding jackets: Stylish and practical protection from the elements
• Best horse shampoos: Keep your four-legged friend clean and healthy

It is paramount that when you are using clippers that plug into the mains that you use a circuit breaker and that you are acutely aware that your horse or pony doesn’t stand on the wire in case of electrocution. 

You will obviously need to check your clippers are working before you get your horse in place and check that the blades are in good order and preferably recently resharpened. Your horse should also be clean and dry to help avoid blunting the clipper blades. Make sure the tension in the clippers is correct, which varies from brand to brand. Finally, you will need to oil along the teeth of the blades and also on the sides of the heel.

Introducing the clippers to the horse

Firstly, show the horse the clippers while they are turned off. Rub the clippers against the horse’s shoulder and then take the clippers away and turn them on. Let the horse listen to the noise before you start clipping them, then, if they are happy, take the clippers gently to the horse and place against them to feel the vibration. If the horse appears relaxed you can then start clipping.

While clipping

Always remember to take as many safety precautions as possible when clipping. Here’s a quick set of best practice rules to follow when clipping your horse: 

• Use long smooth stokes against the lie of the hair
• Stop every 10 minutes to clean the hair from the blades and apply oil along the teeth of the blades and also on the sides at the heel
• If the blades start to get hot, stop and set them aside to cool down, or swap to new blades. Apply a blade coolant spray if necessary. Do not put the blades in water or paraffin to cool them
• Take your time!

When the clip is complete wipe the horse down with a warm, damp sponge to remove any loose hair, then rug up appropriately.

After clipping

There are also steps that you need to take in order to keep your clippers in the best possible condition:

• Brush off all the loose hairs
• Remove the tension set and the blades
• Clean the blades with a brush and/or rag and put them away. Do not put them back on the handset while in storage
• Clean the handset and pack away carefully
• Store your clippers in a cool, dry place
• Send your clippers and blades away at the end of the clipping season to be serviced and sharpened ready for the following year

Choosing the best horse shampoos can be quite a tricky task, as there are so many to choose from. While bathing is unlikely to be part of your everyday horse-grooming routine, it’s an important part of their regular care. Keeping your horse clean and free of grease will help them maintain a good level of comfort, but a good shampoo is also key to achieving the shine and sparkle that will make your horse stand out and look smart in the ring. 

A large number of horse shampoos will be all-rounders – suitable for the majority of horses and pretty efficient when it comes to getting the job done. However, if you’re after something more specific, you can find brightening and whitening shampoos that are formulated to help bring out particular colors and keep your horse’s gray areas white. There is also a range of options out there for horses with sensitive skin, which are likely to use more natural ingredients. Water-free shampoos are really handy for last-minute touch-ups and in cold weather, while some natural shampoos now come in bar form, which is great if you’re trying to make your equestrian life a little more environmentally friendly. 

Whatever shampoo you choose, it’s important to follow the manufacturer’s directions, as this will help you to make the most of your chosen product, use it cost-effectively, and protect your horse from any irritations.

If you want to know which shampoos are best for stain-removing, grays, or sensitive horses, keep reading to find out.

PetsRadar’s pick of the best horse shampoos

This shampoo is from the well-known and world’s oldest horse-care company, Carr & Day & Martin, which has a reputation for producing great-quality horse-care products. The British brand’s Gallop range of shampoos includes an option for every horse and situation – and the stain-removing variety is known for being able to remove even the most stubborn stable and grass stains, and whiten the most yellow-tinged tails. The extra-thick, concentrated formula means you get plenty of washes from a bottle, while the purple coloring and stain-removing properties ensure that your horse receives a thorough cleanse.

This shampoo is particularly useful on light-colored horses – who always seem to attract the most dirt – and on problem areas, such as knees and hocks, where stains are often more deeply ingrained. The formula is also gentle enough if you need to repeat the wash on the most stubbornly stained areas. Although it’s not a specific brightening or whitening shampoo, it also contains optical brighteners that enhance the natural coat color and sheen.

A larger bottle would be useful, especially if you have a yard full of dirty horses, because with only five to 10 washes per bottle, you’ll need to buy a few.

This ultra-hydrating conditioning shampoo produces a rich lather that is highly effective at removing dirt, skin debris, and dandruff, leaving your horse squeaky clean. It contains protein-enriched conditioners that leave the coat feeling soft and looking shiny, as well as ingredients that protect the coat from the sun and hair from environmental pollutants to help prevent bleaching. Shampooing your horse too often, especially with products not specifically made for horses, can strip the coat of its natural oils, so being formulated to hydrate and condition enables this shampoo to reduce the risk of potential negative effects. It also gets great reviews from owners of horses with sensitive skin.

As it’s such a concentrated formula, each 32oz bottle can wash up to 16 horses (or 32 horses from the larger 64oz bottle) – a little goes a long way, which is something that is mentioned in the reviews time and time again. Users report great results on their dogs, too. There are mixed reviews when it comes to the shampoo’s smell, which is a soft, minty scent – some would prefer it stronger, while others are not so keen. This, of course, is personal preference.

This medicated shampoo is specifically formulated for horses. It’s antibacterial, antifungal, and fortified with nano vitamins A, C, E and F that are in an easy-to-absorb form, which makes it easier for your horse to reap the benefits. The formula is gentle and soothing, so it’s a great option if your horse is feeling a bit itchy or sore but could still do with a bath. A medicated shampoo is especially helpful if a thorough clean is likely to improve your horse’s skin condition – the antibacterial and antifungal properties should take care of any nasty things lurking in the coat or on their skin.

Sometimes medicated shampoos don’t smell quite as pleasant as a standard shampoo, but many users comment on this product’s fresh aroma.

The directions suggest applying this shampoo liberally, so it’s hard to comment on the value because, without a measure guide, users will get through it at varying rates. That said, it is available in a large bottle (1 gallon), so it should last you a while. 

This brand claims that you’ll notice a difference from the first time you use the shampoo, as it leaves your horse super-shiny. The formula is silicone free, so it leaves the hair completely clean rather than coating the hair, and the natural botanical extracts gently cleanse the coat and intensify the colors. It rinses out quickly and easily, leaving behind no residue, while restoring moisture, balance, and strength to the hairs of the coat, mane, and tail. 

As all the ingredients of this shampoo are natural, which is a great thing in itself, you can use it on even the most sensitive horses, safe in the knowledge that there are no harsh soaps or detergents in it. This brand is also known for being cruelty free – a positive that requires no explanation for us as animal lovers. A large number of users report that this shampoo smells fantastic – it has a tropical scent – so should leave your horse smelling extra-fresh.

It’s one of the more pricey options on the market, but with such positive reviews it seems that this is a case of you get what you pay for, as there are so many pluses that come with this shampoo. 

The small bottle is a handy size for a single horse owner, but you can also opt for a 1 gallon bottle, which is great if you have a few more horses or like to bath your horse regularly. The lid on the smaller bottle has a simple press-down mechanism that’s easy to use and will save most spillages.

You don’t find many two-in-one shampoo and conditioners for horses, but they eliminate the need for separate washes, as it cleans and conditions in one step. If you no longer need to use a separate conditioner, this could save you money in the long run and save you time, too, which is always a welcome bonus for a horse owner.

This shampoo is sulfate and paraben-free as well as pH-balanced – it’s formulated for sensitive skin, so your horse is unlikely to become irritated by it. It contains added vitamins and conditioners that nourish the skin and coat, leaving it feeling healthy and looking shiny, and it rinses out easily, leaving no residue.

This bottle top is one of the safest when it comes to preventing spillages – a bit like a sports-top drinks bottle, you have to squeeze it to get the product out so you can really target the areas you’d like to apply it to. The packaging-related downside is that this shampoo is only available in a 20oz bottle, which is a fair bit smaller than most other brands. It’s also made in the US, which reduces the product’s carbon footprint and supports American business.

This shampoo was originally created for show horses with long manes and tails to help their flowing locks stand out in the ring, so it should be just the ticket to give your horse the wow factor. The protein-based formula, which can be used on the body, mane, and tail, cleans all the way down to the skin without being harsh or removing necessary natural oils that help your horse’s coat and skin do their job. The shampoo leaves the coat soft and shiny, and the mane and tail fuller and more manageable, so it’s a great option for a good all-round clean. Regular use should help to improve coat health and appearance, too.

Mane ’N Tail shampoo has become increasingly popular in recent years, as it’s found its way into the hair care aisle in your local supermarket or beauty store for human use! The majority of users report fuller, shinier, and healthier-looking hair after use, while some also claim it has promoted growth – for both people and horses. One drawback is that if you’re buying it in smaller bottles aimed at people, you won’t get such good value for money. However, if you’re looking for a travel-sized bottle to take away with you, this could be just what you’re looking for. There are three sizes available, and the largest bottle is particularly handy if you have a lot of horses to bath or are bathing them regularly. The smaller bottles have an easy-pour lid, which prevents any spillages if the bottle gets knocked over.

How to choose the best horse shampoo for you and your horse

When making your shampoo selection, it’s important to consider what results you’re hoping to see – aside from having a clean horse, of course. Brightening shampoos will help to bring out your horse’s color and give them a show ring shine, while whitening shampoos will do the best job of removing yellow stains from a gray. If your horse is sensitive, it’s definitely worth opting for a natural or specially formulated shampoo, as these will be much more gentle on the skin. A medicated shampoo will not only clean but help to remove any bacteria or fungus lurking in the coat and on the skin, helping your horse to stay at optimum health.

You won’t need to use vast quantities of a quality shampoo to achieve your desired results, which should help you to save money in the long run, especially if you’re bathing your horse regularly. If you’ve got a yard of horses to bath, a shampoo that you can buy in large quantities could save you a lot of money. Find the right shampoo for your horse, and you’ll be rewarded with results you can see and feel.

Choosing the best fly rugs for horses will provide them with protection against insects and the hot weather, while also preventing them from overheating in the summer sun. Flies can cause your horse to become annoyed and stressed, but some horses also react badly to bites. 

In the worst cases, some horses develop sweet itch – an allergic reaction to the bite of a particular midge – which causes them to become very irritated. Along with using fly repellents, covering your horse with a fly rug is one of the most effective ways to minimize the effect of biting flies and midges.

Rug companies have funded a lot of research in recent years to find out how they can best deter flies, and the results have delivered a whole host of technical rugs and some fun designs, including zebra print and some bright color combos, that actually prevent flies from landing on your horse. 

In order to do a good job at protecting your horse from any flying insects, the rug also needs to have good coverage – in this case, the more of your horse that’s covered the better. This is why you’ll see a whole host of additional features, such as extra-large tail flaps and belly flaps, that you don’t see on a turnout. But with all this extra material to protect your horse, each rug has to be really lightweight and heat reflective to prevent them from getting too warm. 

The selection of rugs we’ve chosen below cover all of these points.

PetsRadar’s pick of the best fly rugs for horses

Premier Equine claims this rug to be one of the most lightweight and breathable fly rugs on the market, and we think they might be right. It is made from a super-lightweight technical material that has been developed to provide protection against the sun, heat build-up, and flies. The lightweight nylon is strong and durable, while still feeling soft and comfortable – Premier Equine does warn that it takes a few uses for it to soften up. 

It’s not only really breathable and highly protective against insects, but it also offers UVA protection and is heat reflective, so keeps your horse cooler than if they were wearing a traditional fly sheet. This rug is approximately 70% UV reflective, making it the perfect protection for horses who struggle to stay cool in warmer weather.

The long integrated neck cover, which is secured with double-locking straps, provides further protection for your horse while they’re grazing. Unfortunately, you can’t remove it if your horse is prone to rubbing on his mane, but to combat this it’s lined with an anti-static antibacterial polyester. The same lining is used in doubled layers over the wither and shoulder, and there is also a large double-thickness tail flap that provides extra fly protection. 

The tail strap is PVC coated, so it’s really durable and easy to clean. Being such a light color means the rug will show up dirt quite easily, but as it’s machine washable this is a very minor problem.

All the fastenings on this rug are good quality – there are stainless steel quick-release chest straps, which are easy to fasten, and cross surcingles under the belly. The rug is available in silver – presumably as this is the best heat reflecting color – and in sizes 66 to 87 inches. Unlike many of Premier Equine’s rugs, this one is not available in the smaller sizes, although they do have plenty of other great options to choose from.

The Mio collection is Horseware’s budget range – but coming from a brand as reputable as Horseware, this doesn’t mean there’s a compromise on quality. Instead, you’re just likely to get fewer technical features than you would from other fly rugs offered by the brand. 

The rug is made of a knitted polyester with UV-reflective properties, and the light color should help to reflect heat away from the body and keep your horse cool. The rug has patented front leg arches, which allow plenty of freedom to move, and it features a silky shoulder and mane lining to prevent rubbing in these vulnerable areas. You’ll notice the side panels are shorter and less shaped than other Horseware rugs, providing slightly less protection. There’s also no belly flap and, although still longer than many brands, the tail flap is slightly smaller. However, these small differences don’t stop the fly rug doing its job – it might just be slightly less efficient and effective than a more premium-priced design.

This fly rug has a fixed hood, which is handy to have as it extends the coverage, but a detachable hood is sometimes preferable – just in case. It has classic twist front closures that are easy to fasten. 

A budget rug is never going to measure up to the all-singing-all-dancing top-of-the-range ones, but this fly rug certainly does the job, and if you don’t have a horse with particularly special needs and you’re not looking to spend a lot, this rug is a fantastic option. Reviewers report that this rug stands up really well to general wear and tear considering the lower price point.

This fly rug is one of only a few that offer the versatility of a detachable neck – and if this is something you’re looking for it can make all the difference. The rug itself is made of a durable fine mesh, which has a 1200D cross-hatch weave that will help to prevent damage and tears. This is particularly handy if you own a known rug tearer.

It is shaped with a traditional side gusset that allows for natural, unhindered movement. The front is fastened with two buckle closures – these allow for a greater degree of adjustability compared to clip fastenings, but they are more fiddly. In the summer months this is likely to be less of a problem, however, as you don’t have to deal with cold fingers, so it really depends on how much a fiddly fastening might annoy you versus how adjustable you’d like your fly rug to be.

It has a large belly flap that offers a really substantial amount of protection to your horse’s underside, which is a vulnerable area that flies often target. The tail flap is designed with a full wrap, so it’s really secure and offers a high level of protection. The tail flap, shoulder, and mane areas are also lined for added protection against rubbing. A feature that is missing on many other fly rugs, but not this one, is the addition of leg straps – they are adjustable and removable, and very handy for keeping your fly rug secure.

Overall, this rug is a strong, all-round fly rug that offers a great degree of protection as well as versatility. It’s available in two colors, and in sizes 66–84in.

This rug is a waterproof turnout and fly sheet in one, which makes it perfect for times of changeable weather, as you don’t want to leave your horse out in the rain in a traditional fly sheet. The top section, which spans the integrated neck and along the back, is made of a waterproof and breathable 900D polyester/nylon mix. It’s also lined with a protective and shine-enhancing fabric – as is the area over the shoulder and the tail flap. The deep mesh side panels allow for maximum coverage and breathability, which will help prevent your horse from overheating in warm conditions. 

Many fly rugs come in lighter colors with the aim to reflect heat, but this one’s color is geared towards deterring insects. The orange/aqua color combination has been chosen as the latest science suggests the way insects see these colors together in the UV spectrum is a natural deterrent, putting this rug at the forefront of insect-repelling technology. The pattern not only looks fun, but also confuses the insects, making them less likely to land on your horse as they struggle to identify them as a target. The rug also offers UV protection.

It has a disc-front Velcro closure, which is unique to Horseware, lightweight, and easy to fasten. The shape of the neck is designed to prevent rubbing and the rug has three straight surcingles and a belly flap that provide maximum coverage. The oversized tail flap is also designed to provide extra protection and the tail cord is wipe clean. 

This fly rug offers excellent protection against biting insects. It goes a little further towards protecting your horse completely by covering right up to his ears – the neck has ample fabric and the ear panel is elastic to allow for unhindered grazing. The neck is fastened with four touch-close straps for a really secure and snug fit, preventing any insects from intruding. 

The fly rug itself is made of a lightweight and highly breathable 600D ripstop fabric, which is not as strong as others on this list, but it should be enough able to resist general wear and tear. This fly rug will also provide your horse with additional UV protection.

The inside of the rug is fully lined along the neck, chest and shoulders to prevent rubbing and irritation. It’s designed with deep shoulder gussets allowing a good freedom of movement, and it has a belly flap with three adjustable surcingles that provides additional protection to a particularly vulnerable area that’s not offered by all fly rugs. It also has a large tail flap. The front is fastened with two adjustable buckles – great if you’re looking for increased adjustability, but not ideal if you just want a quick and simple fastening. 

Compared with other brands and styles, the Shires Sweet-Itch Combo offers a smaller range of sizes, as it only starts at 69 inches.

The Mark Todd Ultra Combo fly rug is made from a soft, tightly woven mesh that’s designed to provide the ultimate protection against all flying insects. The belly flap has elastic straps that allow a close fit, which is important for keeping out any insects while not restricting your horse in any way. This rug is unique within the list as it has a clever stretchy Lycra gusset inserted between the rug and neck cover that helps to prevent rubs by allowing free movement and helps keep your horse comfortable while grazing. The neck cover is also quite long, coming right up to but not over the ears. The shoulder areas are reinforced with an anti-rub lining.

The rug is fastened at the front with adjustable buckles, while it also features adjustable and removable leg straps, making this rug really secure. The neck cover and belly flap both fasten with hook and loop Velcro fastenings, which are easy to use, but it’s important to match the Velcro up well or it can become clogged up with dirt and hay, which will hinder its fastening abilities.

The tight weave mesh has been tested in intense sunlight and it provides your horse with between 80–90% UV protection, which helps to prevent your horse’s coat from becoming bleached. This fly rug is available in a reflective silver color, and in sizes 66 to 84 inches.

How to choose the best fly rug for horses

How badly the flies affect your horse is the first factor to consider when browsing all the different fly rug options. If your horse suffers from sweet itch, or reacts badly to bites, you’re best to opt for one that offers maximum coverage, including his neck, belly, and tail. 

Rugs with integrated necks can cause less rubbing, especially if the neck features an anti-rub lining, but consider whether you would prefer the option to remove the neck completely – although this obviously provides less coverage, it can be beneficial to some horses in particular circumstances. Make sure the fastenings on your chosen rug are of good quality, as this will keep it secure and prevent it from coming off, which could potentially cause an accident if left unnoticed.

As fly sheets are lighter weight and thinner than a turnout rug, they are more vulnerable to damage. If your horse is known for being a rug ripper, seek out one that’s made of a material with a high denier rating – these fabrics are likely to last longer as they’re designed to withstand a greater amount of wear and tear. A waterproof fly sheet is handy when the weather’s changeable, so worth considering if you can’t get to your horse to take his fly rug off if it starts to rain.

Finally, many fly rugs may look like they have fun fly-deterring prints, but not all are backed by scientific research, so it’s definitely worth checking out the reviews first.

Finding the best riding boots can be trickier than finding the best riding jackets unless you have time to visit lots of tack shops and try on all the riding boots you’ve been recommended, plus read through all the online product descriptions to work out what the benefits of a four-layered footbed and hidden elasticated panel are. 

To help you make your choice, we’ve rounded up a great selection of long and short boots for competition, everyday wear, and winter riding. From the plain and simple to the extravagantly styled, we’ve searched through them all. 

The best riding boots are  made with high-quality materials, and are designed to keep you comfortable while performing at your best. They might seem expensive when you first begin your search, but if you wear them regularly, you can’t put a price on boots that fit you like a glove, and keep your feet cool in the summer and warm in the winter. When you’ve found a brand and style you like and fits you well, you won’t be able to imagine how you ever rode without them, so check out these suggestions to help you get started.

PetsRadar’s pick of the best riding boots

These elegant boots are crafted with a premium full-grain leather upper and a full leather lining. The design and fit of these boots make them ideal for competition and everyday schooling, as you’ll be able to feel your horse through them really well. There are also plenty of advanced technological features incorporated into the design for superior performance and lasting comfort. The 4LR inner sole provides extra support and cushioning, while the updated Duratread outer sole features tested traction zones. These boots also have a moisture-wicking sock liner, so there won’t be a sweaty foot in sight.

The full-length elasticated panel at the rear of the boot is discreet, which helps to keep the boots looking really smart. The YKK zip is secured with a zip keeper to prevent slipping, and this is covered with a poppered fastening. An elastic gusset on the inside of the knee provides extra stretch, and the boots have a flattering fit at the ankle – the contouring means no sagging or bagging in this area, which is a common complaint with long boots. The elasticated laces add detailing while providing flexibility, and there is also a spur rest on either side of the heel.

If you choose the correct size, riders who wear these boots report a really good fit, which is partly down to the design and features, such as the elastic paneling, but there are also a lot of size options to choose from. The boots are available in US sizes 5.5 to 11, with an option of three heights and six calf widths, meaning there’s something for almost every rider – and there’s a really handy size guide on the Ariat website, too. It’s best to have a rather snug fit at first as the leather will naturally stretch slightly and drop over time. 

The Heritage boots are typically at a higher price point, but reviews suggest they’re high quality and good value, and last a long time if you look after them. It’s best to keep these boots purely for the saddle – they’re too good to be wearing around the yard. 

These everyday short boots certainly won’t break the bank. They have a traditional look and are pretty simple, but they do have a few nice added extras, including spur rests, elastic side gussets, and detailed toe caps. The main part of the boot is synthetic leather, and the sole is made of rubber – these material swaps make the boots cheaper, so bear in mind that they are unlikely to stand up to other models in terms of quality. They’ll still do the job of keeping your feet pretty dry – they just might not look quite as smart, and they might be stiffer. They will, however, be really simple to clean; wipe them with a damp cloth for minimal upkeep.

Some users report black marks on their socks after wearing these boots, so it’s best to avoid wearing your favorites, but it also suggests that these boots aren’t particularly breathable.

They won’t last forever, but they’ll do the job if you’re not planning on wearing them all day, every day.

This style also comes in children’s sizes, and these would be perfect for a young rider who is just getting started. 

These boots are a different style to the others in this list, leaning more towards a country boot and away from the traditional competition boot style. Overall, this gives a great balance between being more robust and practical for wearing on the yard, as well as doing a good job when you’re in the saddle. 

These boots do a good job of keeping out the cold and wet – they’re lined with a technical fabric, which keeps your feet warm but allows them to breath to prevent sweaty feet, and the outer part is made of a water-repellent oiled leather to keep your feet dry, no matter the weather or terrain. The boots have a full-length YKK zip at the rear, which makes them easy to put on, as well as integrated stretch panels across the back, which provides comfort and flexibility while riding.

Although these boots are lightweight, being a bit chunkier means they are unlikely to be so great for fine schooling work or when riding sharp horses. The sole is strong and hard-wearing, and has an anti-skid grip, which will come in handy on an icy winter’s morning.

These boots are available in brown, and in sizes 5 to 10. There are no width variations at the calf, as these boots aren’t designed to be as close-fitting as competition boots, but the stretch panels allow for slight variations in width.

These Mountain Horse boots have a traditional but eye-catching look: and are available in a choice of three colors: black, brown, and dark brown full-grain leather. They have a Spanish-cut top, eyelets with fixed elastic lacing, and a smooth leather lining. There are five calf width variations along with three heights, which cater for a wide range of leg sizes, but it’s important to be aware that not every combination of the variations is available.

The boots are designed to offer you a more comfortable dropped-heel position, and have ergonomically designed removable insoles – both great additions for comfort. The high-density sole has a grippy zone and a tempered-steel shank for improved stability when riding and walking, although it’s probably best you keep these boots for when you’re in the saddle, as they’d be wasted for walking around the yard.

The boots fasten with a long YKK zip at the back, with a zipper keeper at the top to prevent it from slipping, and hidden elastic along each side to ensure a comfortable fit. There is also a protective heel cover, which should help to keep your zip safe from dirt and damage, and a spur rest on each boot.

Wearers report the boots to be soft and easy to break in, which will be a relief to hear if you’ve experienced stiff boots. They also come with inflatable boot trees and a boot bag to help keep them in the best condition. 

Ariat is well-known for producing a great range of sought-after riding boots. These paddock boots are one of its simpler styles, but they are so versatile that they are a great all-round option, whether you’re a beginner or are returning to the saddle after a break. 

These boots have a simple and discreet style with a plain toe cap – they’re only available in black, but to most beginners this is unlikely to be an issue. The YKK zip is an antiqued brass color, which gives the boots a smart and stylish look. As with most Ariat styles, the Scout is also available with laces, but the zip provides a quick and simple fastening. It may be even easier if there was a pull tab at the back of the boots.

The Ariat 4LR technology is a four-layered cushioned footbed designed to provide superior comfort and support. The hard-wearing Duratread sole provides a good level of resistance and flexibility, aiding comfort and maximizing the lifespan of your boots. The main part of the boot is made of full-grain leather with a moisture-wicking lining, which should help prevent sweaty feet. The ankle features an elasticated area on each side to aid a comfortable fit.

These are Ariat’s budget option short boots, but despite there being no real frills, you can be sure that these are comfortable and will last with good care, as the brand has a fantastic reputation. There is also a matching pair of half chaps that you can purchase to wear with the Scouts.

These boots are, in many ways, similar to the Ariat Heritage Contour boots but come in at a slightly lower price point. The Holywells have a soft full-grain leather upper and leather lining. The full-length back YKK zip is protected at the top and bottom with poppered tabs, and there is a full-length elastic panel to help provide a perfectly snug fit. These boots have a very similar style to the Ariats, with elastic laces, a contoured fit at the ankle, and a high Spanish-cut top. 

How these boots differ, however, is in having a grippy calf patch, which should make the inside of the boots that sit against the horse’s side more durable and last longer. The footbed features Dublin’s RCS (rider comfort system) – it has cupped heel and arch support, a cushioned layer, and a moisture-control lining – so in theory this should keep your feet comfortable and supported, both in and out of the saddle. 

The Dublin website offers a fairly comprehensive boot care guide that explains how best to look after your boots – it’s not as simple as just wiping clean, but looking after leather is always worth it.

There are just a few different calf fittings available in these boots – two widths and two heights – which will probably cater for the majority of riders, but not all, so it’s worth taking a look at the size guide for these. They are also only available in black. 

How to choose the best riding boots

Riding boots can be a big investment, so when you’re on the lookout for a new pair, it’s important to consider what sort of riding you’re doing and whether you’ll be wearing them when you’re out of the saddle. Even though we’ve done our best to bring you a good selection, it might not be exactly what you’re looking for, so make a list of all your essential and desirable features and capabilities.

If you’re an experienced rider, and doing dressage or show jumping on a daily basis, look for a tall, leather competition boot. Give consideration to the style, but if you’re not going for a bespoke or made-to-measure fit, be sure the boots provide you with enough comfort and support to perform at your best. 

If you’re going to be spending hours in the saddle, comfort and fit is really important, so if you have the option of trying them on before you buy, it’s definitely worth doing. If you don’t change from riding boots to yard boots for doing your yard chores, then a more sturdy and practical riding boot would be a sensible choice, as they’ll last a lot longer and be much kinder to your feet – competition boots are designed to be worn in the saddle, not for mucking out or turning out. 

There is so much choice when it comes to picking out the best horse riding jackets – gone are the days of everyone wearing the same plain, unflattering blousons – which is great news! Style has become much more important and these days a variety of good-quality jackets boast a wide range of technical fabrics and features, too. These range from reflective thermal linings to hidden magnetic closure strips, and it all goes towards helping to keep you comfortable and allowing you to perform at your best. 

You could double up and wear your general yard jacket when you’re riding, too, but it’s unlikely to be designed and constructed for use in the saddle so it’s definitely worth investing in a separate one. Not only will a good fit allow you to move freely, it’ll make you feel confident too, which can only do good things for your riding. Whether you’re looking for something to keep you dry while you hack out once a week, or something to wear at your next jumping clinic, our picks will provide you with a range of options and styles for every type of rider – we’ve covered all the angles.

PetsRadar’s pick of the best horse riding jackets

New for autumn/winter 2020, the Horseware technical riding jacket is a functional choice that is still stylish and flattering. The main body of the jacket is made from recycled waterproof fabric and recycled polyester padding, which is a great use of modern technology in a world where so much is wasted. The outer part of the jacket has been treated with a durable water-repellent coating, which helps rain run off rather than soak into the material, and it has taped seams to keep water out. The cut is designed to flatter the female figure while also allowing for freedom of movement for optimum performance, and the dipped hem at the back provides extra coverage when riding. The jacket is available in a choice of two stylish colors – navy or fig – and in sizes XS–4XL.

It features a detachable and adjustable hood – it’s great to have a detachable hood as many riders prefer to ride without one for safety reasons, but it’s also really handy to have when you’re on the yard. The two-way centred zip on the front allows you to open the zip from the bottom for increased comfort in the saddle, especially if you’re shorter in the back. It also has a chin guard and stand-up collar with a cosy ribbed interior for added comfort. The jacket features two waterproof and fleece-lined pockets, which are also zipped for added security, and extended soft cuffs with a thumbhole, which will help to keep your hands warm while you’re out and about. It’s machine washable – an essential for any item that goes to the yard.

Good riding jackets are never cheap – so if you come across one that’s a real budget option, it’s probably not going to be worth it in the long run. This jacket, however, is fairly priced and comes in at a lower cost than many of the others we’ve looked at. This is likely to be due to the lack of technical properties this jacket has – for example, it’s not waterproof – but if you’re not after a waterproof jacket and just want something that will keep you warm or protected in a light shower, then you don’t need to spend the extra. This jacket would be best suited to riding indoors throughout the year or outdoors when the weather is fine.

This jacket is a combination of stretch softshell and padded panels. It has light insulation, so isn’t bulky but will keep you warm – great for varying temperatures in the spring and fall, especially as it would layer nicely under a heavier or waterproof jacket for wearing on the yard. The Bayswater jacket features a dipped back hem for a flattering fit, as well as breathable elastic cuffs, a two-way zip and two zipped hand pockets. It doesn’t have a hood but, if you’re only really wearing it for riding, this is a good thing as it’s safer and you’ll have a helmet on anyway. It’s only available in navy in the US – but that goes with almost anything – whereas if you’re reading from the UK there is also a coral option, and in sizes XXS–XXL.

This long riding jacket is particularly stylish and is designed especially for riding. It’s tailored through the body and has side fillets that give a subtle stretch, keeping you comfortable and offering freedom of movement. It’s filled with an eco-friendly synthetic filling, which has the warmth of down but doesn’t ball up or flatten, even after washing. Like most coats of this style, it’s water resistant rather than waterproof, but the outer material is durable, snag-proof and can cope with light rain. It has soft, storm-proof cuffs, so if you do get caught in a shower the rain’s not getting in via your arms. It also has useful exterior and interior pockets.

Where most long coats have a rear flap that is secured with a zip or poppers and allows you to be comfortable while sat on your horse, this jacket has a discreet magnetic opening so as not to risk scratching your saddle. It also has a durable two-way easy-run zip on the front, which makes it easier for you to sit comfortably as well as protecting your saddle from snags. 

It has a generous detachable hood, which has a removable faux fur trim, giving you a really versatile look. This jacket is ideal for riding, but also smart enough to make it more than passable to wear at the mall. Extra fleece lining on the back, pockets and collar make it the perfect option for wearing at a chilly showground, whether you’re having a day out spectating or need something to throw on between classes.

The extra length of this coat really goes a long way to keeping you warm, especially with the extra protection it gives your legs while you’re riding. Being quite so long it’s more suited to flatwork and hacking, but there are shorter versions of this style available, too, if that’s what you prefer. This jacket is available in navy or brown – both of which will pair well with most outfits – and in sizes 4 to 14.

This jacket is full of technical features. It covers the basics for a good outdoor riding jacket – waterproof, windproof and breathable, with taped seams, waterproof zips and lined inner quilting for good measure. What really makes this jacket stand out from other similar waterproof riding jackets is the Thermi-heat lining, which utilizes thermal reflection to help maintain warmth and prevent heat loss – a fantastic feature for the winter months as riding in too many layers can hamper your performance. The underarm zip vents have technical mesh inserts, which allows the jacket to help regulate your temperature when you’re riding. 

The quilted hood isn’t detachable, which generally means it sits and looks better, but many riders prefer to ride without one from a safety point of view. The jacket is machine washable, which is handy as any jacket worn to the yard is likely to become dirty pretty quickly.  

This jacket has quite a sporty and stylish look, and there are plenty of colours to choose from, meaning there’s something for everyone. It’s one of Ariat’s core items that is back season after season as it’s so popular, and this also means there are often new updated colorways added, too. 

It’s by no means the most practical jacket you can find, but you’ve got to remember that it’s not meant to be a yard jacket, it’s designed for riding – it’s a stylish option that still stands up to the job of being a technical sports jacket. It’s made of a softshell stretch nylon material with a microfleece backing, which provides breathability and great heat retention – this jacket is warmer than it looks. It’s also wind and water resistant, making it a good option for a cooler day. Like most jackets designed for wearing in the saddle, the hem hangs lower at the back to give you a bit of extra protection while you’re moving about. It has a standing collar, which adds style while giving your neck that extra bit of coverage, and two well-placed zipped hand pockets.

One thing that comes up time and time again in reviews is that this jacket runs small. Its flattering cut is designed to be fairly slim fitting and not to be worn with chunky layers underneath, but most purchasers found they needed to size up for a good fit, but found the arms and body to be of good lengths.

This smart wind and water-resistant jacket gives a nice balance between practical yardwear and style. It has a flattering and feminine shape, and is embossed with a chevron design, which gives it a more interesting look than some other jackets on the market. It’s available in three colors – black, purple and a blue-grey – which all look equally smart. The hood is integrated, so can’t be detached, but it has a toggle so you can cinch it in to block out any bad weather and keep the warmth in.

The longer three-quarter length is elegant but more importantly provides extra protection to your upper leg while you’re in the saddle. It has a cosy fleece-lined interior, making it more than just a rain jacket – it should keep you warm, too. Like most riding jackets it has a two-way front zip and the split tail also zips open, which is easier than poppers. It has two front pockets, which are also zipped, so you don’t have to worry about losing anything on your ride.

This jacket comes with a year’s guarantee – not something you see very often, so definitely an added bonus!

How to choose the best riding jacket

The first and most important thing to consider when you’re choosing a new riding jacket is what sort of riding you’re doing. If you spend most of your time in an indoor arena you’ll have a very different list of priority features to someone who is hacking out in all weather conditions. Ask yourself the following questions… Does it need to be waterproof? Are you working hard and likely to get warm quite quickly? Do you need to fit layers underneath? Will you be wearing it to complete yard chores, too? 

Once you’ve settled on a general style – long, short, waterproof or padded – make a shortlist of jackets you like the look of and check what features they have. Zipped pockets are really handy, as is a detachable hood, but it’s worthwhile checking whether the jackets have a split back and how this is fastened too. The more technical the material and the more features it has, the more expensive it’s likely to be, so consider what’s a must-have and what's more desirable when it comes to making your list. If you make the right choice when buying a riding jacket it can be a fantastic investment and you won’t look back! 

Getting your horse outdoors is a necessity, unfortunately, that brings a swarm of pesky flies constantly at their eyes and ears. The answer to protecting your horse and keeping them comfortable is to find a well-fitting fly mask that keeps away irritating insects or sunburn, or both. Here’s our pick of the various fly masks out there designed to protect your horse from biting bugs in the most agreeable way possible.

How to choose the best fly mask for your horse

Flies and other biting bugs can give your horse a hard time when they are out in the field or on the trail, so choosing a comfortable mask that’s hard for your equine pal to remove is a sensible move to help protect them. As well as stopping them getting irritated by insects, some masks can also help protect them from sunburn, so it’s important to consider this too if your horse is sensitive to the solar rays.

Our top pick is the Kensington Signature Fly Mask - an attractive yet durable hard mask that protects from both the sun and insects, with the option of removing the nose covering if wanted. Those on a budget should consider the Pro-Force Equine Fly Mask, which offers sun and bug protection at minimum cost, while owners of horses prone to sunburn should check out the Equivizor Horse UV Fly Mask. Owners of more sensitive horses should consider the lightweight masks from Cashel: the Cashel Nose Fly Mask covers the entire face, while the Cashel Quiet Ride Fly Mask leaves the nose free.

Why do horses wear shoes? It's a question many of us have pondered our entire lives, but one we're about to answer for you. 

And we won't just tell you why horses wear shoes, but answer any other equine-related questions you may have. Horses are beautiful, intelligent, incredible creatures, but if you haven't grown up around them or studied them, you may not know a lot about them. If you're considering getting a horse as a pet, or just spending time around them, you wanna brush up on your equine knowledge ahead of time.

That's why we've got the answers here for you, straight from the horse's mouth. So, let's start with the most important question...

• Get the best equine insurance: Protect the biggest friend in your life
• How to clip a horse – Tame that mane with ease
• The best horse shampoos: Keep your four-legged friend clean and healthy

Why do horses wear shoes?

Horses are often ridden, driven, or led over hard surfaces, so wearing horseshoes will protect their sensitive feet from injury and wear. For jumping and other events where horses need lots of traction, small studs can be screwed into the shoes to provide grip – a bit like spikes on football boots. 

Horses spending all their time on soft ground can be left barefoot, but their hooves still need to be trimmed by a farrier every few weeks to stop them growing too long, which makes walking difficult.

Why do horses roll?

Horses roll to itch parts that they can’t reach and to get rid of loose hair. Rolling in dust protects the skin from sunlight and helps a horse dry off if it’s sweaty after a ride. A rolling horse that looks distressed might be ill, but it is usually a sign that a horse feels happy and relaxed.

How often do horses need to see a vet?

Vets aren’t just for emergencies; horses should have their teeth checked at least once a year, and more frequently if they’re old or have dental problems. Vaccinations need to be carried out too – if you're a horse owner, your vet will remind an owner when these are due.

What are horses' eyesight like?

Like dogs, horses have dichromatic vision – they can see blue and yellow (and therefore green) but can’t see red. Their night vision is better than ours, but they take longer to adjust to changes in light levels.

How big can horses get?

The world record holder for tallest living horse is Big Jake, a Belgian horse measuring 20 hands and 2.75 inches (210.2 centimetres / 6 feet 8 inches) at the withers. That's a very big Jake

How many breeds of horses and ponies are there?

There are hundreds of breeds around the world, but an exact number hasn’t been agreed on and estimates range from 150 to over 1,000. Breeds are split into four categories – ponies, light horses, heavy horses, and feral horses – based on height, weight and whether or not they’re domesticated.

Are all horses ridden?

No – some pull carts, work as therapy animals, act as companions for other horses, go to ‘in-hand shows’ where they’re judged without being ridden, or live as pets and spend their days eating and being groomed. Not all horses are meant or bred to ridden, but they still make great companions.

What’s the difference between a horse and a pony?

All ponies are horses, but not all horses are ponies. Ponies are those that measure less that 14.2 hands (144 centimetres / 4 feet 7 inches) at the withers – the base of the neck above the shoulders. Anything bigger is a horse.

How clever are horses?

They might not always act like it, but horses are intelligent animals. They’re able to learn through training and by watching others, and many can solve problems (like the bolt on the stable door) by themselves. Horses are sensitive and form strong associations – both positive and negative – based on their experiences. Their memories are good, and they remember people who treated them badly for a long time - so don't do that. Scientists have shown that they’re capable of some complex thoughts and can even recognise human facial expressions.

What do horses eat?

In the wild, horses live almost entirely on grass. A domestic horse’s diet should be made up mostly of grass and grass-based foods like hay and topped up with extras like carrots, apples, oats, sugar beet and supplements if necessary. All horses are different and their diets should be appropriate for their age, size and health and activity level. An overweight horse is an unhappy horse.

What is the top speed of a horse?

Different breeds gallop at different speeds, but the average is around 45kph (28mph). Over short distances, some thoroughbreds and quarter horses can sprint at 80kph (50mph). That's a lot faster than us, huh?

Why do you mount a horse from the left?

Mounting and dismounting from the left is a tradition going back to the days when horses were used in warfare. Soldiers carried their swords against their left legs so they could draw them easily with their right hands, and getting on from the left prevented any injury to them or their horses.

Why do you need to clean a horse’s feet?

If a stone or other sharp object gets stuck in a hoof it can cause serious discomfort and might prevent a horse from putting weight on its foot, so regularly picking up and cleaning the feet is really important. Clearing out any mud allows you to check the bottom of the feet properly for any bruises, cuts or swellings that need treatment.

What does it mean when a horse is lame?

Lameness is the loss of a horse’s ability to walk or stand properly, usually producing a limp. It can be caused by a number of different injuries and illnesses, so recovery time varies hugely.

What are colts and fillies?

Colts and fillies are the gendered names for foals – a filly is a young female horse, while a colt is a young male. Fillies will become mares when they’ve grown, and colts will become either stallions or geldings depending on whether or not they’re castrated (gelded).

Are horses dangerous?

Not by their nature! Horses are generally quiet animals, but can be skittish. They’re incredibly powerful and still have their wild instincts. Horses and ponies of all sizes can lash out if they’re scared or angry and deposit their riders on the ground when they’re spooked. If a horse is spoiled and fed treats all the time, it might get pushy and try to nip with its teeth when it wants feeding - just like any other pet would.

No matter how gentle they are, horses sometimes step on feet or knock into people completely by accident, so it’s always best to give them enough space to move.

The importance of getting the best equine insurance that you can afford can't be overstated. Horses are wonderful animals and a privilege to own, but talk to any horse owner and they will tell you how expensive they are. An old horse joke is that you should cover yourself in mud, stub your toe and then rip up £50 notes in gale-force wind and rain to get an idea of the reality of horse ownership. 

It is not quite as bad as that, but vet bills can be eye-watering. It is possible to run up a bill for thousands of pounds over a single incident, but get the right insurance for you and it can buy you peace of mind for just a few pounds a month. 

The good news is there is a lot of choice out there for horse owners, and policies to suit every budget and discipline, whether your horse is a happy hacker or a top-level show jumper.

• Best riding boots: Long or short, find the pair that suits you best
• Best riding jackets: Stylish and practical protection from the elements
• Best pet insurance for pre-existing conditions
• How to get cheaper pet insurance: lower insurance costs for all of your pets

NFU Mutual is not offering policies that vary wildly from other horse insurers – what it is offering is a personal service. If you are the kind of person who wants to deal with a human being rather than conducting business online, this is the service for you. It would probably suit a large equine business better than a single horse owner, where animals worth more than £20,000 need to be insured, with animals that travel outside the country for competitions and whose insurance needs might fluctuate over the year. 

NFU Mutual has 300 offices in the UK, guarantee no cancellation, mid-term or direct debit fees, and if you want to make changes to your policy before the term is up, it will not charge administration fees. That is perfect for a large business with a string of competing horses and animals in training, and might need to make changes to policy, depending on how competing and training is progressing, or on clients’ needs.

Animals Friends is targeting the budget end of the market by letting you build your insurance policy as if it is made of Lego. The most basic package is for veterinary fees and complementary treatments. Anything else you wish to insure, such as your tack, horsebox, public liability, or insuring your horse for death, straying or loss of use can be added on for an additional fee. So if there are features you feel you would not get the benefit from, you don’t have to pay for them. For instance, if you choose to keep your tack at home, it would be covered by your house insurance. 

While other insurers have a maximum level of veterinary fees you are allowed to claim for over one instance (normally £5,000), Animal Friends allows you to choose the maximum level of veterinary fees you are insured for: £2,000, £4,000 or £6,000. 

A unique selling point of Animal Friends is that, if you like your insurer to have a heart, the company was founded with the sole aim of providing pet insurance as a means to help support animal-welfare charities. To date it has donated over £4 million to over 300 animal welfare charities across seven continents.

The British Horse Society’s offering is very different from anything else available, but it is worth mentioning if you own more than two horses and find yourself on a budget. The BHS is not a traditional insurer: it is an equine charity, and the money you spend with them goes back into education, welfare and maintaining the bridal way network in the UK. It offers the best public liability insurance of all the insurers mentioned here, and you buy your policy when you purchase Gold membership of the BHS. 

The best thing about the policy is that it applies to every animal you own, not just one, so for £75 a year, ALL your animals are covered for public liability, whether you own five or 20. However, veterinary fees, tack, etc. are not available at all with the BHS, and it is advisable to ‘self-insure’ in this case, which means having a savings account purely for vet fees. 

If you go by the standard maximum fees insured in other policies, you would need savings of about £5,000 to cover large, unexpected bills. It is a risk, but if you have healthy horses that don’t tend to be accident-prone, it could save you money to have a 50/50 approach of an insurance policy and a savings account. Insurance policies are underwritten by SEIB.

KBIS offers the widest range of policies of all the insurers mentioned. At the very top end of the scale, it has a specialist policy for sports horses valued at over £20,000 that also covers them while competing abroad. All animals named on the policy will be covered by KBIS while competing in Western Europe and while in transit (including aviation). 

At the other end of the scale it offers much cheaper horse insurance, including public liability only (insures you for up to £5 million) and it also offers a unique product it calls Catastrophe Cover. Catastrophe Cover can be purchased as a standalone policy for £300 a year and covers vet fees up to a maximum of £7,500. The cover is for accidental, external injuries only, plus three life-saving veterinary procedures, including the dreaded colic surgery.

Petplan is one of the most famous horse-insurance providers and has a huge customer base. The chances are, if you have a dog or a cat, you are already an existing customer. Petplan’s offering is perfect for anyone who wants to insure their horse for non-veterinary treatments as well as traditional vet services. The company does not limit the amount spent on treatments such as physiotherapy, acupuncture and specialist farriery, as long as it’s within the maximum vet fee limit quoted on the policy (£5,000). Petplan will also pay up to the maximum vet fee insured for diagnostic treatment. 

Veterinary science has changed a lot over the last 20 years, and vets will now work hand in hand with complementary therapists. They are professionals who, like your vet, have spent many years training, and their fees are not cheap. Complementary therapy can sometimes account for half of the bill for one incident, so it is worth considering. Diagnostic medicine has also made huge leaps and can make the difference between a horse being treated and going on to have a full life or being put to sleep, but the equipment being used in such treatments comes with a big price tag.

E&L is not very exciting and does not differ from the basic policies offered by other insurers. The most basic policy it offers covers public liability and insures against death, theft or straying, which means you would have to self-insure for vet fees. Policy pricing on all levels is also dependent on what you and your horse compete at – anyone competing beyond riding club ability, or showing and dressage, will find an additional premium on their policy. 

However, the lunar monthly policy means that should your circumstances change or you find you need to sell your horse, you can cancel your insurance policy at any time without penalty. The company also offers discounts of up to 35 percent if you book online.

SEIB is one of the oldest lenders in the country. It has a good track record and a well-established customer base. Five percent of SEIB’s commissions are donated to the BHS, and the company works closely with the BHS on education and welfare. 

If the thought of colic is what keeps you up at night, then SEIB, along with KBIS, has specialist colic insurance that offers a higher maximum vet bill than for other treatments. Colic surgery is one of the most expensive treatments there is, and colic one of the most common ailments. 

You can get cheaper access to scaled-down SEIB policies through Harry Hall. The equestrian clothing retailer is now offering low-cost insurance, including colic surgery, through a membership scheme, and all policies are underwritten by SEIB. Cover starts at £75 per year for vet fees insurance ,and the policy covers up to two horses with no upper age limit. You do not need to get a quote, you just sign up online to become a Harry Hall One Club member and you get access to insurance. However, you are not getting the same policy as you would direct from SEIB: for instance, vet fees have a maximum capped at £1,500 per incident, so check the small print!

How to choose a policy

There is a lot to consider when choosing a policy if you are at the lower end of the market, as most horse owners are. You need to decide what the most important areas you want insurance to cover are. Do you keep your tack in the house? Do you not own your own trailer or horse box? In this case, you don’t need insurance for these items. 

Whether or not you compete and in what discipline will also affect how much your policy costs per annum. Be realistic! When I got my first horse, I was very excited and thought we would be out show jumping in a few weeks. The reality was a lot of hacking and low-level showing while we got to know each other. Had I insured for my daydreams and not the reality it would have cost me a lot of money. 

But the one piece of insurance I would urge every horse owner to buy, even if your horse is a field ornament, is public liability. Horses are big flight animals that tend to pulverize everything that gets in their way when they run in a blind panic. Even just a grumpy kick at a car that passes too close can be expensive. Put public liability at the top of your shopping list and protect your family’s finances.