Rabbits can die from heatstroke, so it’s crucial that you know how to keep your bunny cool when the weather gets warmer. Since they are unable to sweat to regulate their body temperature, it’s particularly important to give them a helping hand.

Your rabbit’s environment shouldn’t exceed 77°F (25°C), and if it’s too hot, you might notice them breathe more rapidly, drink more than usual, pant, or have warmer ears. As well as keeping them cool, you’ll need to check their bottom multiple times throughout the day during the summer to ensure they don’t have flystrike, a parasitic condition where flies lay their eggs on another animal.

Keeping them well hydrated and out of direct sunlight is top of the list, but there are a few other ways you can help, which vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan has explained below. She’s a qualified vet with 16 years of experience working with small animals, and she’s here to help you keep your rabbit safe this summer.

How to keep a rabbit cool in summer

1. Hydration

Provide your rabbit with plenty of cool water to keep them hydrated. While it’s easier for them to drink from a bowl, Dr MacMillan recommends using an additional drinking bottle if they’re prone to knocking it over! To ensure their drinking bottle stays cold, you can buy an insulating cover that slips over the top.

2. A ceramic or slate tile

One of the easiest ways to keep your rabbit cool is by giving them a ceramic or slate tile to lie on. If you don’t have any around the house, you can buy tiles specifically made for rabbits to put in their living area – or invest in one of the best pet cooling mats (which needs to be checked regularly for chewing damage).

Alternatively, if you’re on a budget, Dr MacMillan also recommends a damp towel to sit on or a partially frozen bottle of water wrapped in a towel.

Note: Never cover your rabbit in a damp towel or cloth.

3. Electric fan

Just like us, rabbits will also appreciate a refreshing breeze from an electric fan – and you can even buy ones that attach to their cage or hutch! If you do opt for these, make sure you check them regularly for damage, advises Dr MacMillan.

If you don't have time to keep an eye on it, you can always place a tower fan next to their enclosure, which they won't be able to nibble on.

4. Regular grooming

Did you know that regular grooming can help your rabbit feel cooler and more comfortable in the summer? While you should brush your rabbit year-round, it becomes even more important in hot weather, as it helps remove excess dead fur.

Dr MacMillan adds: "You should be checking your rabbit twice a day for flystrike during warm weather anyway so you can add a little extra brushing in while you are at it."

Signs of heatstroke in rabbits

Heatstroke can occur when your rabbit is exposed to high temperatures and can lead to seizures, organ damage, and even death. If they show any of the following signs, take them to a vet immediately:

• Weakness
• Panting
• Drooling
• Hot or red ears
• Collapsing
• Seizure

For more advice, read our tips for taking care of rabbits

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

From keeping a watchful eye over their ever-growing teeth to topping up their hutches with hay, hay, and more hay — there are some things only rabbit owners can relate to.

Whether you’ve got an indoor rabbit or an outdoor bunny, rabbits are known for being brilliant pets for small homes. That said, they might be smaller than a dog or cat in size, but these energetic creatures still need lots of love, care, and attention.

Like all pets, good rabbit care is important to their health and happiness. But if you're a proud pet parent of a rabbit, you'll know this already. For more things, only rabbit owners can relate to, keep scrolling.

32 things only rabbit owners can relate to

1. They eat their droppings

You might be shocked by this and left wondering do rabbits eat their poop, but most rabbit owners won’t be! Rabbits produce two types of feces: hard fecal pellets which are the waste products and softer ones, which are called caecotrophs.

The latter are jam-packed with nutrients. Most rabbits tend to eat these directly from their rectum so you'll never normally spot them on the ground.

2. Rabbits like having a LOT of space

Whether you have an indoor rabbit or an outdoor rabbit, every rabbit owner will know how much space these friendly balls of fur like to take up. That’s because rabbits need enough space so they can go about their everyday behavior, like binkying, digging, chewing, and thumping — and the best rabbit runs can ensure that this is the case.

But how much room is enough? Well, according to The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund, a pair of rabbits need at least 3m x 2m with a height of 1m at all times.

3. Their teeth always look great (if well looked after)

If you’ve ever wondered why a rabbit’s teeth always look brand new, it’s probably because they are (sort of!). A rabbit’s teeth never stop growing as, unlike humans and cats and dogs, a bunny’s teeth are ‘open rooted’ which means they will continue to grow their whole life.

It’s believed their incisors (front teeth) grow at around 2-3 mm per week, while their molars (back teeth) grow around 2-3mm every four weeks.

4. Carrots aren’t great for rabbits

Despite what most cartoon characters will have you believe, the best food for rabbits isn’t carrots! High in sugar, a very (very) small piece of this orange veg can be fed to rabbits as a super occasional treat, but carrots shouldn’t be a staple of their diet.

Along with leading to weight gain, carrots can upset a rabbit's digestive system. Instead, all rabbit owners know it’s worth investing in the best hay for rabbits as it forms the foundation of a healthy diet.

5. They eat tons of hay

Talking of hay, this roughage, along with grass, makes up around 85-90% of a rabbit's diet. Along with being rich in fiber, hay and grass help rabbits grind down their teeth which, as we’ve just highlighted, are continuously growing.

6. They are strict herbivores

Of course with all this hay and grass making up most of their diet, it will come as no surprise to owners to hear that rabbits are strict herbivores.

This means they won’t eat any kind of meat at all, just plants. But they can eat a wide variety of greenery. For example, one surprising thing rabbits eat includes mint, dandelions, apples, cucumber, and even parsley!

7. Rabbits are always eating

Of course, all this constant chewing action means rabbits spend anywhere between 6-8 hours a day eating. But as we mentioned, not only does this help keep your rabbit happy and healthy, but it will also prevent boredom and stop rabbits from chewing things they should be.

8. Rabbits like to hide

Most owners might spend a huge chunk of their time wondering where their rabbit is. In the wild, rabbits live in groups in underground burrows known as warrens which have multiple entrances and exits. Therefore, domestic rabbits will tend to reflect this natural instinct to hide, as they are prey animals.

9. Their eyesight is impeccable

Due to the fact they are prey species, rabbits have their eyes on the side of their head. This location of their eyes gives them nearly 360-degree field of vision – meaning they can spot signs of danger from nearly every angle.

10. They like leaving their mark by rubbing their chin

A rabbit’s scent gland is located under the chin of both male and female rabbits, and they will tend to rub along items they wish to claim as their own.

This leaves a scent that only other rabbits can smell. Most owners would have spotted their fur friend doing this on chairs, bowls, beds, and litter trays. But don't panic! It won't mark or damage your furniture. It just lets another rabbit know that another bunny has been here.

11. Rabbits will throw their toys

Most rabbit owners will have spotted their fur friend literally throwing their toys out of their hutch, which can be funny and fascinating to watch in equal measure.

The good news is that this is just part of what they do. So keeping a stash of the best rabbit toys in their living area will come in handy.

12. Rabbits are crepuscular

While most rabbit owners are catching up on some sleep, their fur family is alive and thumping! Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they are active during dawn and dusk and are less active during daylight and nighttime hours.

Therefore, having a rabbit hutch isn’t just key to making sure they are safe, but the top-rated options are big enough so they can exhibit normal behavior patterns – like chewing, grazing, and foraging – no matter whether it’s morning, noon, or night.

13. Rabbits are prolific breeders

If you have a non-neutered male and female rabbit in a hutch together, two won’t stay two for long. Unlike humans, rabbits are only pregnant for around a month and they can often have litters of more than five babies each time.

They can also become pregnant straight after giving birth to a litter so things can get crowded quickly. But, as we said, most bunny parents would have already figured that out!

14. Rabbits binky

That’s if they are happy! Referred to as ‘binkying’ or ‘bunny binkies’, most owners will have spotted their fur friend running and doing a 180-degree turn in the air.

This totally natural behavior is playful and is believed to show that the bunny feels happy and safe. Some say it can also be a ‘practice run’, in case they need to escape from a predator.

15. They move their ears a lot

A rabbit’s ears are a thing of wonder. Not only are they super cute and soft, but they are constantly on the move because, as prey animals, they are able to pick up sounds from far, far away, and from different directions all at the same time.

16. Rabbits are intelligent creatures

Just like dogs, these little furry Einsteins can be clicker trained and they can also understand commands like ‘come’, ‘stay’, and ‘touch.

Just remember that training takes lots of patience and time – but it's worth it. In fact, bunnies see training as a type of game for rabbits and it can help you both bond along with boosting their welfare and health.

17. Rabbits like company

Any bunny parent will know how rabbits thrive when they’re in the company of their own. In the wild, rabbits live in large groups. So it’s no wonder why they are an incredibly social species. Just remember: opposite-sex rabbits will multiply (and quickly). So the best pairing tends to be a neutered female and a neutered male.

18. Rabbits like to make lots of noises

If you share your home with a rabbit, you'll know these furry friends don’t ‘chat’ in the usual way. For example, rabbits can purr, by softly grinding their teeth, they can growl and grunt in an attempt to defend themselves or their territory and they’ll thump to warn other rabbits of potential danger.

When they're annoyed at something they can even hum, which sounds like a bee.

19. Rabbits aren’t rodents

Most people will refer to rabbits as rodents. But we bun parents know this isn’t the case! Instead, rabbits are technically lagomorphs, as the defining feature is the presence of two pairs of incisor teeth in the upper jaw.

20. Not all rabbits like to be held

Rabbits are often depicted as being cute and cuddly creatures – and while they can be, not all bunnies love to be pictured up and cuddled. This stems from their wild roots, where rabbits are only really 'held' when they have been preyed on by a predator.

Therefore, you’ll have to earn your rabbit’s trust and respect and owners will know to only pick up their rabbit if it’s grooming time or when completing a health check.

21. Rabbits live for a long time

Wondering how long rabbits live? As long as you look after your fur friend, rabbits can live happily in your company for anywhere between eight to 12 years.

But things like investing in the best pet insurance and giving them the right care can help too.

22. Rabbits can be destructive

They might be cute and look cuddly, but don’t be fooled! Rabbits are also very fond of chewing and digging. And they will tend to exhibit this behavior if they’re not physically or mentally stimulated.

Therefore, it’s worth taking note of all the things to consider before getting a rabbit, like the best rabbit toys. But you could always engage in some activities for rabbits too to keep their mind and body active.

23. Rabbits are bigger than you think

Often depicted as small, cuddly creatures, most owners will know rabbits don’t always stay that size.

With the many breeds of rabbits available, from the silky angora ball of fur to the wild-looking Belgian hare, rabbits can grow up to 4ft long!

24. Rabbits need lots of exercise

When it comes to keeping your rabbits healthy, any rabbit pet parent understands that the key is to ensure they are well-exercised. Of course, the rabbit runs can help with this. So can setting time aside to complete activities with your rabbit, like exploring, playing, and foraging.

25. They have delicate digestive systems

As we touched on, rabbits can’t just eat anything. So there are some dos and don’ts of feeding rabbits correctly, like not offering up lots of carrots or fruit, avoiding muesli mixes and never feeding your precious pet dairy or meat products.

Instead, bunny parents only feed their pet pal the best rabbit foods that will ensure they get all their vitamins and more.

26. Rabbits are clean pets

Most bunny owners are already clued up on house-training a rabbit. But if you're considering adopting a rabbit you might not know that these clever creatures can be litter box trained.

With a little bit of time, consistency, and patience, it’s entirely possible to teach your rabbit the basics of litter box training. As long as you have the right equipment, like the best rabbit litter boxes and some of the best rabbit litter, it's actually pretty easy to get started.

27. Their hearing is incredible

It's not just their eyes that are second to none. Rabbits also have incredible hearing.

Along with being able to move their ears up to 270 degrees, the International Fund for Animal Welfare, says wild rabbits have a very wide hearing range that spans from 360 Hz to around 42,000 Hz. This means they can hear higher frequencies than humans.

28. Rabbits have something in common with kittens

And by that we mean baby rabbits are also called kittens or kits, like their furry cat counterparts. Plus, rabbits also purr when they are happy (which is hopefully often) and they do so by chattering their teeth together.

29. Rabbits and guinea pigs aren’t the best of friends

Despite what you might have heard, most bunny owners will know guinea pigs and rabbits aren’t always the best of pals. In times gone by, these furry friends used to be sold together, but it’s now thought that they do better when living apart. Not only do they have different diets, they also communicate differently.

30. Rabbits can’t vomit

Bunny owners wouldn’t have seen their fur friend vomit because it’s physically impossible for them to do so. Therefore, it’s of high importance to make sure your rabbit eats the correct diet and doesn’t ingest something they are allergic to.

31. Rabbits jump high

Higher than you might think – and you’ll know this if you’ve got one who likes to explore! According to The Guinness World Records, the highest bunny jump currently stands at 3ft.

But there are some reports that a rabbit has been seen to jump over 4ft high – which is no mean feat considering the average height of an adult rabbit stands at just 6 inches.

32. Rabbits are very, very fast

If you’ve got a rabbit run you’ve probably spotted your pet zooming around it at a very fast pace. That’s because the average domestic rabbit can run up to 25mph.

And when it comes to jumping, they're pretty quick too. Another rabbit has made it into the Guinness Book of Records with Penelope taking just 7.16 seconds to jump over 10 obstacles.

Love learning about rabbits? Here are some more interesting rabbit facts

From how much hay they need (spoiler alert: it’s a lot) to the fact they can be litter-trained, we’ve compiled a list of all the things your rabbit would tell you if they could talk.

Rabbits are pretty magical creatures. So much so, while they can’t actually ‘talk’ in human language, they can tell you most of their needs, wants, and desires through their own rabbit body language. For example, have you ever witnessed a bunny purr? Or spotted a rabbit perform a binky? These are all means of communication for rabbits. And when it comes to good bunny care, it’s understanding communication like this that can help you keep them healthy and happy.

To help make sense of what your bunny would say if your fur friend could talk, we’ve pulled together a list. So hop to it!

32 things your rabbit would tell you if they could talk

1. Feed me!

Wondering how long can rabbits go without food? Well, if you’ve studied rabbits or share your home with one, you’ll know that they are pretty much always grazing.

These fur friends need unlimited access to good-quality grass and the best hay for rabbits, so they should never be left without food.

2. I actually can’t eat loads of carrots

Despite what a certain cartoon character will have you believe, rabbits can’t actually eat bundles of carrots. Though they are a type of veg (and vegetables are good for us, right?) carrots contain a lot of natural sugar.

All this sugar can upset a rabbit's sensitive stomach unlike hay or leafy greens, which can be fed in addition to the best foods for rabbits.

3. I’m civilized and can be trained to use a litter box

Rabbits have something in common with cats: these clever creatures can be trained to use a litter box. When it comes to learning how to litter box train a rabbit, you’ll have to wait until your bunny has been neutered as they are unlikely to accept litter training before this.

But to try and get ahead, you could start placing one of the best rabbit litter boxes in their hutch so they become accustomed to them.

4. I’ll keep myself clean, thank you very much

Talking of cleanliness, rabbits are pretty clean creatures. Not only will these furballs place their litter in the tray once they've mastered the art of doing so, but they will also spend a lot of time cleaning up after themselves by grooming their fur.

That said, a large part of keeping your rabbit healthy will also involve you grooming them daily with one of the best rabbit brushes.

5. Pleaseeee get me a friend

Questioning whether or not rabbits can live alone? Well, we have the answer! Rabbits don’t do well alone. Instead, they thrive in the company of other rabbits so it’s important to consider this if you are planning on adopting one, as you’ll need to make sure you have space for two.

6. I can hear what you’re saying

While lop-eared rabbits might not necessarily have the best hearing, most other rabbit breeds will be able to hear far and wide. In fact, according to the International Fund for Animal Welfare, wild rabbits' hearing spans from 360 Hz to around 42,000 Hz, so they can hear higher frequencies than humans.

7. And I can see what you’re doing

Not only is their hearing pretty incredible, but their eyesight is just as good. Due to the fact they are prey animals, they have a 360-degree field of vision meaning they can spot signs of danger from nearly every angle.

The only ‘blind’ spot they have is directly in front of their nose. But they’ll use their whiskers and noses to help compensate for this.

8. This is my house and I WILL leave scent markers

Rabbits don't just have similar characteristics to cats – they are also like dogs too! That’s because rabbits mark their territory – just in a slightly different way to pooches.

Rabbits have a scent gland under their chin which they rub along items they wish to claim as their own. This leaves a scent that other rabbits can smell but is odorless to humans and won’t damage your belongings.

9. Can talk, will talk

Rabbits are brilliant communicators. Not only do they use verbal sounds (like purring) which make up a small part of their rabbit noises, but they’ll also nudge, dig ,and use their facial expressions to help communicate with their other hutch companions too.

10. I need lots of exercise – so let me stretch my legs!

There’s no such thing as too much exercise when it comes to rabbits. These energetic creatures will love nothing more than running young, wild, and free. So it’s worth having one of the best outdoor rabbit hutches and one of the best rabbit runs that is big enough so they can run to their heart’s content.

11. I’m in it for the long haul

How long do rabbits live? Good question. If well cared for and shown lots of TLC, a healthy rabbit can live anywhere between eight to 12 years. So, whether you’ve just welcomed a new floppy-eared friend into your family or you’re considering adopting, it’s important to discover the top tips for caring for rabbits before you jump right in.

12. I’m not angry, I just like throwing my toys

This is quite comical to watch, but it’s all part of a rabbit’s natural ‘play’ behavior. This mannerism of them throwing their toys can often signify they are having fun and want to engage in more playtime.

But it can also be a way to get your attention. Therefore, it's worth keeping a watchful eye over your fur friend and making sure they have enough of the best rabbit toys to keep them entertained.

13. I binky when I’m happy

Another brilliant and totally normal behavior rabbits exhibit? Rabbits tend to ‘binky’ when they are happy. Bunny binkies are when rabbits leap into the air, flick their back legs and head and they perform a 180-degree turn mid-air.

This charming mannerism is believed to take place when a rabbit is relaxed, feels safe, or just wants to let off some steam. It’s also thought to be practiced in case they should ever need to escape from a predator.

14. Unlike you, I’m most active at dawn and dusk

Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they are most active during dawn and dusk and less active during the day. So, while humans tend to be most active during the day, your fur friend will tend to come alive at night.

15. I eat my droppings – don’t judge me, it’s healthy

After reading this, you’re probably thinking: do rabbits really eat their poop? Rabbits produce around 300 round fecal poops, which is why it’s important to have a rabbit litter box and know how to clean a rabbit cage.

But while they won’t digest this type of excrement, they are partial to the soft and sticky pellets known as caecotrophs, which are rich in nutrients and essential vitamins and minerals.

16. I'll flop when I feel relaxed

Ever spotted your fur friend turn its head a few times and 'fall' onto its side? This is known as a 'bunny flop' and, in our opinion, it's one of the cutest things your rabbit will do.

It's believed rabbits 'flop' when they are happy, relaxed, and feel safe. So essentially, it's just another way of communicating with you—so if you spot them flop each week, you're doing a great job at being their pet parent!

17. I am NOT a rodent

These balls of fur are often mistaken for rodents. But this is incorrect. Instead, rabbits are lagomorphs because they have the presence of two pairs of incisor teeth in the upper jaw. This is the defining feature.

18. I can get sick, but I can’t vomit

It’s true. They have a strong cardiac sphincter (muscle) that sits at the top of the stomach, preventing them from doing so. This means if your rabbit eats something dangerous, or a foreign object, they are unable to bring it back up. So it's well worth learning what to feed a rabbit and what not to!

19. This hay isn’t fresh enough

Rabbits love hay. But not just any hay. They like hay that is dry, clean, and packed full of fiber and protein, such as timothy or meadow hay, which is known for being fresh and pleasant smelling.

Munching on this hay will help to keep their digestive system in good order and their forever-growing teeth working, too.

20. Let me explore!

'Exploring' is a rabbit’s middle name. So give them lots of enticing rabbit-friendly features in their enclosure to investigate.

This can be tunnels, places to hide, toys, or different plants to try chewing on. Some rabbits might even like walking while using the best rabbit harnesses which allows them to safely explore their surroundings under your supervision.

21. I love to play

Another pastime your little ball of fur will spend hours doing? Playing. To help keep them busy and entertained you could try pairing two of their favorite things together – chewing and toys – by introducing a chew toy. These toys can also help rabbits wear their teeth down, as they grow continuously.

22. I don't mean to chew all your furniture, I'm just bored

Talking of chewing, if your rabbit has ever nibbled a corner of your sofa, taken a bite out of cables or tried to pull down your wallpaper (yes, really!), then it's because your rabbit is bored or, in some cases, stressed.

While rabbits are naturally curious furballs, as they are natural diggers and chewers, they only tend to start chewing things they shouldn't be when boredom strikes. To stop them from doing so, make sure they have enough foraging opportunities and provide them with plenty of puzzles and toys.

23. You gave me a fright!

Being prey animals, rabbits have strong senses. As we mentioned their hearing is first class and while this helps to keep them safe from predators, it can mean they will startle easily.

Therefore, if you’re housing your rabbits indoors, place their hutch somewhere quiet where they will feel safe. If you’re placing your rabbits outside, find a quiet spot where they will feel comfortable.

24. Being a bunny is thirsty work!

Wondering what rabbits need in their cage? Along with bundles (and bundles) of hay, rabbits also need access to lots of fresh water. The general train of thought is that rabbits should be drinking 50–150 ml of water per kg of body weight. So be sure to fill and refill their bowls daily.

25. I’m intelligent, you know

Dogs are often hailed as being the most intelligent pets humans share their home with. However, we’re making a case for rabbits. That's because these hoppy-go-lucky pets can groom themselves, they can be litter trained and they can stick to routines. They can also communicate well and their memory is impeccable. Need we say more?

26. I love it when you spend time with me

Rabbits don’t do well alone. So much so, that they’ll need another hutch companion. They also love spending time with their humans and can thrive once a bond is well established.

Without daily human interaction, domesticated rabbits can become lonely and depressed. So if you are thinking about adopting, make sure you set some time aside each day to show your fur friend some TLC.

27. My ears don’t just look cute

A rabbit's ears can also be used for thermoregulation. Due to their larger-than-average size, a rabbit’s ears contain a lot of blood vessels that help them retain and release heat. These blood vessels swell when your fur friend is hot and contract when they are cool. Pretty great, huh?

28. Catch me if you can!

Did you know, most rabbits can reach speeds of around 25–35 miles per hour? Of course, the top speed will depend on the size, type, and individual fitness level of the rabbit. But this is still pretty fast, considering the average running speed of humans is around six miles per hour.

29. I don’t always want loads of cuddles

They’re often depicted as being cute and cuddly – and while they might look it, this isn’t always the case. While some rabbits will love nothing more than cuddling up to their owners, one fact about rabbits that might surprise you is that most prefer to have four feet placed firmly on the ground.

30. My teeth will never stop growing – fact!

Another fun fact about rabbits? Their ‘open-rooted’ teeth will never stop growing. But thanks to their high-fiber diet, which is packed with staples like hay, which requires a lot of chewing, this will help to keep their teeth worn down naturally and prevent them from overgrowing.

31. Even if I make a fuss, I do appreciate you taking me to my check ups

When it comes to caring for a house rabbit or outdoor rabbit, they will need annual veterinary trips to ensure they are in good health.

For example, vaccinations are advised for even indoor bunnies so routine annual wellness visits can help to monitor your rabbit’s overall health, assess the need for dental care, and monitor your rabbit’s diet and general care.

32. I’m a strict vegetarian

If you’re wondering if rabbits are herbivores or omnivores, wonder no more. They are herbivores, therefore when it comes to the do's and don'ts of feeding rabbits correctly, they can only digest plants, like hay, grass, vegetables, and the best rabbit food, like pellets.

Do you have a longhaired rabbit? Here's everything you need to know about longhaired rabbit breeds and how to care for them.

Those who have rabbits as pets can attest to how intelligent and characterful they are. This does mean that they need a suitable amount of entertainment to avoid becoming bored or depressed – cue our activities for rabbits.

There are some things that you can do with your rabbit, such taking them for a walk, and others that you can set up for them to do themselves, such as foraging or some of the best rabbit toys. If you're not sure how to play with your rabbit, here are 32 activities for rabbits you can try to keep them happy.

32 activities to do with your rabbit

1. Harness walking

Some rabbits don't cooperate, but most can be trained to walk on one of the best rabbit harnesses. This allows them to safely explore their surroundings under your supervision and means that they can roam much further and investigate places where they might otherwise get lost.

2. Watch TV

While your rabbit probably isn't actually watching the TV, they will probably appreciate some quiet hang-out time with you. If you bring them out and put them on your lap or beside you while you watch the television, it can become a sweet activity you share.

3. Explore

One thing that rabbit owners can relate to is how much rabbits like to explore, so give them lots of enriching features in their enclosure to investigate. This can be tunnels, places to hide, toys, or different plants to try.

4. Play

Once your bunny is comfortable with you, they will probably enjoy playing. If you are careful, and gentle and read their body language, you can initiate play with your rabbit or allow them to initiate with you. You can play with toys or play hide and seek.

5. Chewing

While you might not enjoy this one as much as your pet, make sure they have lots of material (such as the best hay for rabbits) to chew. Rabbit teeth grow throughout their lives, so they need to keep chewing hard objects to keep them at a comfortable length. If they are not provided items to chew, it's likely that they will chew on things you don't want them to, such as power cables and furniture.

6. Nesting

Make sure your rabbit has lots of materials to create a nest and a suitable space for nesting in. Lots of the best bedding for rabbits, such as straw, sawdust, hay, or shredded paper will allow your bunny to express their natural instinct to build nests. Just make sure you clean them out regularly and replace them with clean, fresh bedding.

7. Foraging

Rabbits are natural foragers, and you can satisfy this instinct by giving them things to forage. Hiding edible flowers or small pieces of apple or berries in some hay will encourage your rabbit to forage for the high-value items.

8. Digging

Female rabbits are more likely to dig than males, building huge warren structures when left unchecked. Boys dig too, but for different reasons. These warrens serve as a safe and cozy place to raise their families.

While you don't want your rabbit digging their way out of a secure area, setting aside some space for them to construct their burrows will keep them satisfied.

9. Handling

Rabbits that enjoy handling are likely to find it a fulfilling experience and a pleasant way to bond with their human. Respect their boundaries and make sure you give them space when they want it, and they should be happy to be handled regularly, perhaps even seeking you out for cuddles.

10. Grooming

Rabbits are very clean creatures and have a strict self-grooming routine. You can help them with this by grooming hard-to-reach areas with a soft brush (check out our guide to the best rabbit brushes) and checking their teeth and nails regularly to ensure they aren't overgrown. A bath will stress your rabbit out so this is best avoided – so here’s a guide to rabbit grooming to help you get started.

11. Socializing

Rabbits are social creatures and enjoy having a friend to live with. While some struggle with socialization, most rabbits will enjoy having a pal around to keep them company.

12. Grazing

If you have an indoor bun, make sure they have plenty of things to graze on. Unlimited access to hay is important, but if you can give them time outdoors to graze on fresh grass, this will keep them content.

13. Exercise

Exercise for rabbits may not look quite the same as it does for a dog but is still important for their well-being. Time out of their enclosure to roam, explore, and graze is important for their physical and mental wellbeing.

14. Let them roam

Rabbits are natural explorers, so letting them roam (with supervision) is good for their mental health and can help them to feel safer in their environment.

Rabbits need plenty of space – more than you might think – this guide explains how much space rabbits really need.

15. Homemade toys

You can make your rabbit toys out of edible materials to add some enrichment to their enclosure. String some low-calorie vegetables together and hand them in your bunny's enclosure, and they will be kept happy for hours.

16. Give them a tunnel

Bunnies like tunnels, which is why they tend to dig them. If you have a rabbit that lives fully indoors, this can be difficult as they might not have the space or materials to dig. In this case, you can give them cardboard tubes or hollow logs to hide in.

17. Train them to do tricks

Rabbits are very easy to train, and you can show them how to do tricks. With a suitable, high-value reward, your bunny can learn to give kisses, come when called, or give a high five. Try to do training when your rabbit is most alert.

18. Rotate their toys

Rabbits can get bored, so rotate their toys to keep things interesting for them. You don't need to buy them new toys every time, but swapping some of them around a few times a month can keep things interesting for your bunny.

19. Give them a platform

Rabbits like investigating platforms and high places, which is why you will often find them hopping up onto a sofa. Their natural instinct to scan for predators means that high places are appealing to them, and you can encourage this instinct by building them a small platform.

20. Keep their routine consistent

Rabbits feel secure within a routine, so if you feed, exercise, and handle them at the same time each day, they will feel safest. If you mix up their routine, this is likely to stress them out, so try to keep things consistent and predictable for them.

21. Don't overcrowd their space

While this isn't an activity per se, be aware that you can overcrowd rabbits with toys, tunnels, and things to chew, which can be stressful for them. Make sure they have lots of space, swap toys instead of just adding more and give them a safe place to hide if they feel overwhelmed.

22. Spend one-on-one time with each rabbit

If you have multiple rabbits, handling them individually can help reinforce your bond with them. Try to avoid separating them completely or taking one rabbit out of sight of the other, as rabbits can experience separation anxiety, particularly with their friends. Focus on petting one rabbit while you give the others an activity to do.

23. Introduce new items slowly

Rabbits are prey animals, and new things can be scary for them. With this in mind, introduce new things slowly. Don't bombard your rabbit with lots of new toys and enrichment items at once, but introduce each one gradually to allow them to adjust.

24. Give them an untreated log

Rabbits should be encouraged to chew and an untreated log is the perfect gift for them to work their teeth on. Make sure there are no chemicals, paint, varnish, or pesticides present before giving to your bunny, as these may make them sick.

25. Find edible weeds for them to eat

While this isn't an activity you'd do with your bunny, you can go for a walk on your own to find them edible plants. Dandelion greens harvested from a clean place are likely to go down very well with your rabbit.

To help you out, here’s a list of things rabbits can eat, and here’s a list of plants poisonous to rabbits.

26. Make a trail of greens

Make your rabbit a trail to follow and engage its foraging instinct. Placing some greens a few inches apart will encourage your rabbit to use its senses to find the next one on the trail, which can be fun and fulfilling for both of you.

27. Play on their level

You're probably a lot taller than your bunny and this can feel intimidating to them. If you get on the ground with them, they are more likely to feel safe and enjoy interacting with you.

28. Assault course

Rabbits in their natural environment cover all sorts of terrain, so adding a bit of variety to their environment can be enriching. Give them things to climb, hop over, or scooch under in a mini rabbit-friendly assault cause.

29. Ball games

Rabbits can be trained to play with balls and some really enjoy it. If you show your bunny how to push the ball along the ground, you may find them using their nose to nudge it along. If the ball has a bell inside, your rabbit may enjoy the noise this makes as well as the action of pushing the ball.

30. Puzzle games

You can make rabbit-friendly puzzle games that encourage their foraging instinct. Using untreated wood or cardboard, make a simple puzzle for your rabbit to solve in order to get to the food. This will provide them with mental stimulation and a tasty treat at the end of it. If you're really bored, you can build a whole maze with carboard boxes.

31. Litter training

If you have a rabbit you'll want to read up on how to litter box train a rabbit. You'll be happy to know that they are quite easy to litter train and once it's done, are unlikely to forget where the bathroom is. While this is more of a practical activity than a fun one, ensuring you reward your rabbit makes it worth it for them. They're also naturally clean animals and when neutered, prefer to go in one place.

32. Take a nap

The biggest blessing as a bunny owner is when your rabbit sees fit to fall asleep while being petted. While it isn't a very active activity, knowing that your rabbit feels safe enough to have a sleep on your lap is a high compliment.

Playing with your rabbit is one of the best activities to do with your bunny, as it will help establish a strong bond and sense of security. Spending time with your fur friend can also help your rabbit steer clear of boredom-driven behavior, like chewing cables or cabinet corners.

Of course, there are many breeds of rabbits so the best activities to do with your bunny will depend on the type you have. For example, a Holland lop has bundles of energy so it might be wise to invest in one of the best rabbit runs, to help them stretch their legs. Any activities you do with a Jersey Wooly rabbit should be done indoors, as they prefer to call one of the best indoor rabbit hutches their home.

That said, bunnies are crepuscular creatures so will be ready and raring to play at dusk and dawn. To help you bust some boredom, we've compiled a list of the best activities to do with your bunny.

32 activities to do with your bunny

1. Free roam

Bunnies are happiest exploring and if your fur friend isn’t already free roaming, then, depending on the breed you have, it's worth dedicating a space inside or outside for them to do just that.

Remember, if you've got an indoor rabbit, discover how to bunny-proof a room first, to keep your little hopper safe.

2. Chew toys

The best food for rabbits will ensure you're rabbit is getting the right nutrients it needs to be happy and healthy.

But introducing a chew toy is just as important as it can help them perform natural behaviors, like chewing and chin rubbing. These toys can also help rabbits wear their teeth down, as they grow continuously.

Plus, it's a great way of initiating play in the very early stages of establishing a bond with your bunny. It can be relatively hands-off, leaving both you and your rabbit to enjoy being in each other's company.

3. Make tunnels

It's time to get creative. Depending on the size and nature of your bunny you can decide which materials and/or household objects are best fit to entertain your four-legged friend.

Whether you make your own tunnel or invest in one of the best bunny toys, like a hand-woven seagrass option, there's much fun to be had here!

4. Encourage foraging

Foraging is a natural behavior for a rabbit and is the perfect instinct to draw on in play. You can use bunny-friendly sand boxes and cardboard boxes filled with shredded paper or buy a purpose-made snuffle mat for them to explore.

5. Facilitate digging

Digging often occurs whether you like it or not and we are firm believers of, if you can’t beat them, join them. Lean into the digging fun and create a safe and dedicated space in your garden or home for your rabbit to enjoy.

6. Branches

A family (and furry favorite). If you are tight on time and tools then place some apple tree logs and branches into their hutch and let them chew and strip the bark off within a matter of days.

As long as the wood hasn't been treated with pesticides, this is safe (and fun) for them to do.

7. Reverse Fetch

This next activity tasks the human with all of the fetching and the bunny with all of the fun.

Play with toys your rabbit can grasp in their mouth – you’ll know when you’ve got this right because toys will be swiftly thrown all over the place in response. Then fetch them and start the game all over again.

8. Share a treat

Playing with your bunny can be as straightforward as sharing a snack in each other's company. This is the perfect bonding opportunity and after a long day allows you to get the best of both worlds.

And, if you're wondering what to feed a rabbit, check out our expert-backed guide on what you can and can't treat your bunny to.

9. Training

Rabbits love to learn, so work with your brainy bunny to unlock some new skills.

Why not learn how to litter box train a rabbit and teach them how to put the best rabbit litter boxes to good use? Or teach them how to respond to their name or give you a kiss? Training is a great form of enrichment and highly rewarding for both of you.

10. Blanket Escape

It's simple, easy, and super sweet. Use a blanket your four paws are familiar with and gently place it over your rabbit and use sound, treats, and speech to encourage your bunny to find its way out.

Most bunnies will find their way out unprompted and head straight back for more!

11. Bunny Maze

Simple, but super fun. You can buy or create a maze for your bunny to explore from something as simple as rearranging furniture and hiding treats. If you intend to make your own maze, always research rabbit-safe material to use.

12. View

Rabbits have an almost 360° vision, which, in the wild, allows them to see predators coming. So why not consider installing bunny-friendly ledges at various heights and angles to help them make the most of their sight?

Leaning into their wide field of sight enables your rabbit to experience more of the world from their point of view.

13. Magic Cups

We all know this one well, and believe it or not so can your bunny! Mastering the art of picking the right cup to reveal a sweet treat is well within the reach of those four adorable paws.

Start off simple, with clear cups, allowing your rabbit to use more of its senses to seek out the reward. Before long, their nose alone will lead the way!

14. Follow the leader

This game requires highly-scented snacks and fast feet! Familiarize your bunny with the treat of choice, take a few steps away, place it on the floor, and when ready call your bunny over to enjoy their reward.

Repeat, changing direction and pace to see if your bunny will run after you (and your snacks!)

15. Bunny bowling

Set up plastic bowling pins either indoors or outside and sit back as your bunny explores the new toys and finds great enjoyment in knocking them down with their nose.

16. Bunny Thief

A mischievous rabbit will love nothing more than engaging in this game, centered entirely around them taking something from you and not looking back.

Lie on the floor and leave a treat or toy resting in your palm. Be patient and wait for your curious companion to engage.

17. Cat Ball

Rabbits enjoy playing with small balls and cat balls with bells or those made with crinkly fabric are always a hit.

Take turns to roll the ball to one another. It might take a few attempts, but it’s a game worth being patient for.

18. Obstacle Course

There is little a bunny loves more than discovering a new space. But if you find yourself short of rabbit-proof play spaces you can elevate the ones you already have with obstacle courses.

Experiment with different bunny-friendly textures and heights as you create a whole new world for your big-eared pet to explore.

19. Petting

Don’t overlook the power of petting. It can be easy to feel the pressure of going above and beyond for your bunny, but sometimes there is nothing better than a cuddle or two!

20. Hide and seek

If your rabbit comes running when you call then hide and seek is a great option for you to try. Start slowly, hide in their space, somewhere they know well and call their name. The more you play, the further you can go and the faster they will hopefully hop to find you!

21. Let them binky

Heard of bunny binkies? Binkies are known best for demonstrating a bunny's happiness and excitement. Whilst these jumps and twists are a cute display of joy, they are also the perfect opportunity for play.

The more you know your rabbit, the easier it will be to help build up their binkies.

22. Once-over

We're never one to shy away from a bunny cuddle. But keeping your rabbit close to you will also offer up the perfect opportunity to give them the once over. For example, carefully check that your rabbit's nose is moist, their ears are clean and the corners of their eyes are free of discharge.

Approach this however works best for your bunny but the aim of the game is to give your rabbit a ‘once-over’ whilst they are calm and happy! This will make health checks and trips to the vet much easier.

23. Puzzle toys

Looking for a quick fix? If you are heading out the door and don’t have time to put an activity together, puzzle toys are fantastic boredom-busters and will keep your bunny engaged while you’re away.

24. Cardboard Castles

A cardboard box is the gift that keeps on giving. Experiment with cardboard for free, rabbit-friendly fun. Whether you craft your bunny a castle fit for a queen or you cut out holes so they can have another spot to feel safe and secure in, there’s endless fun to be had.

25. Hopping Challenge

Put your pet's hop to the test. Use various household and bunny-safe items to set up a hop-tastic trail for your rabbit to explore. Footstools, upturned buckets, and boxes are all great options to get you started.

26. Gift-giving

Take an old box, some shredded paper, hay, or other bunny-safe material, and hide treats, toys, and rewards for your bunny to find. This activity draws on your rabbit's foraging instinct and provides great mental stimulation.

27. Washing line

For the bunnies led by their tummies, this activity is ideal. Hang some string from one end of their hutch (or play space) to another, carefully pegging veggies along the line (peppers and lettuce work best!), and let them enjoy the healthy, hanging treats.

28. A whole new world

Have you ever decided to rearrange your entire room on a whim? The same can be done for your rabbit, with even bigger rewards. Updating their play or living space reignites their curiosity and breathes new life into an old space.

29. Furry Destroyers

If you have a bunny who loves to make a mess, why not lean into the chaos? Fill a shoebox with shredded paper and let them at it! Straw mats, bunny-friendly newspapers, or an old magazine are also fantastic options.

30. Baby Bunnies

Rabbits who enjoy throwing will have great fun with baby toys. The rattle of plastic keys, wooden blocks, or plastic cat toys will elevate this level of play and is a great opportunity for you to play together.

31. Bunny Fishing

This is a fantastic option for families with young children who are looking to bond with their bunny.

On your next walk pick up a long stick (this will become your fishing rod) and attach a piece of string to one end. Carefully tie a knot around a piece of lettuce and dangle it for your rabbit. The entire family will have great fun watching the bunny nibble away at each piece, whilst keeping little hands at a safe distance!

32. Switch up their space

Engaging with your bunny and adding excitement to their day does not have to cost a lot of money or take a lot of time.

Try adding an old rug or scrap piece of carpet to their habitat and enjoy watching them explore it. So pause before discarding household items like cardboard tubes and let your rabbit put them to greater use.

Wondering how to keep your bunny warm and happy? Discover the expert-approved rabbit winter care tips or check out the best heated pet beds.

Although many of us welcome the winter season and look forward to getting cozy, the temperature drop can pose unique challenges for our fluffy friends, which is why rabbit winter care is super important.

Rabbits are delicate creatures that are sensitive to cold weather and require extra care to stay warm and comfortable during the chillier months. There are lots of ways to keep your bunny warm, like buying one of the best heated pet beds and weather-proofing their hutch, which vet Dr. Emma Chandley has explained below. Emma is a practicing vet with over 13 years of experience in small animal surgery and medicine. She has been a rabbit lover since she could walk and talk.

From providing adequate shelter to offering nutritious food and plenty of enrichment, here's everything you need to know about keeping your furry friend happy and healthy this winter.

How to take care of rabbits in winter

Rabbits are very sensitive to the cold and can easily become sick if they are exposed to harsh winter temperatures. Here are some top tips for taking care of rabbits in the winter:

Choose a suitable hutch: Make sure you pick one of the best outdoor rabbit hutches that are made from sturdy materials like wood. It must be insulated well so that it retains heat properly.

Placement of the hutch: Make sure you put your hutch out of the way of drafts or any place it will be exposed to rain, hail, or snow.

Bedding: It is very important to provide a warm sleeping area for your bunny using the best rabbit bedding. In the winter months, they will need a thick layer of fresh hay or straw. It is important to change the bedding regularly to make sure it is not wet or soiled from urine and feces.

Weatherproof the hutch: Ensure the hutch is protected from drafts and moisture build-up. Check there are no cracks or gaps in the wood and make sure the hutch isn't in a damp or moist environment.

Temperature: Make sure the hutch is warm enough throughout the day and night. You can use a thermometer to check the temperature. In winter your rabbit's hutch should be between 59–68°F. Their fur does provide some natural insulation but they still need help keeping warm, especially at night. Rabbits can tolerate colder temperatures if they have enough protection from the elements and a thick layer of bedding.

Good Nutrition: Always make sure your bunny has a good supply of the best hay for rabbits. They may need to eat more food in the winter months to maintain their energy levels. Offer your rabbit their daily measure of the best rabbit food. Lots of rabbits enjoy fresh vegetables too such as kale and carrots. For more advice, we've written a complete guide on what to feed a rabbit.

Adequate hydration: Your bunny must have access to fresh water 24/7. Rabbits can become dehydrated very quickly in cold weather. You can use a bowl or a water bottle with a nozzle. Check that the water is clean and that it has not frozen over.

Regular exercise: Keep your rabbit active – it has benefits for both their physical and mental health.

Visit your vet: Always ensure you keep up to date with your annual vet visits. Your vet will check your rabbits over, vaccinate them, monitor their general health status, and address any concerns.

Encourage playtime: This can be indoor or outdoor play, but in extremely cold temperatures, they're better off in the warm. This can be carried out by setting up a safe confined area where your bunny can hop and explore. The best rabbit toys, like tunnels, toys, and boxes can be used for them to explore and hide in. If you are letting your rabbit outside, they must be supervised at all times. Be cautious of ice or snow in the area your rabbit is playing as this may cause frostbite.

Are rabbits ok outside in winter?

Rabbits can be kept outside in the winter months, however, it's important to take precautions to ensure maximum comfort and safety. Despite their fluffy fur coats, bunnies are still susceptible to cold-related illnesses such as frostbite and hypothermia.

In the wild, rabbits live in underground burrows in large groups. The temperature does not change much and is usually around 50°F.

A rabbit hutch placed outside doesn't have the same insulation. It is important to ensure that rabbits living in a hutch outside have constant access to a sleeping area that is draught-free, dry, and warm.

Do rabbits need a heater in the winter?

In general, rabbits do not need a heater in the winter. Their fur provides a good amount of insulation, and as long as their living environment is adequately protected from the cold and wet, they can stay warm and comfortable.

Depending on where you live, if it is a place with extremely cold temperatures, or if your bunny is elderly, very young, or has a compromised immune system, providing additional warmth may be necessary.

The ideal temperature range should be between 45°F and 75°F. Other ways to keep your bunny warm include:

Insulated Hutches: It is possible to line hutches with insulating material to keep heat in. Always make sure your rabbit has free movement in and out of the insulated part to prevent them from becoming too warm.

Heated pads or blankets: If necessary, you can use a one of the best heat pads for pets or a blanket to provide extra warmth. These must be used with caution as rabbits can easily become too hot. Always cover pads and mats so that your bunny isn't lying directly on them.

Found this helpful? Read: How to keep a rabbit warm in the winter and Housing rabbits outdoors.

With so many different breeds of rabbits, you may be wondering what are the best types of bunnies for pets. While it may be hard to resist a cute, floppy-eared friend, the truth is that some breeds of rabbits are better suited to pet life than others.

If you're considering bringing a rabbit into your home the type of breed it is will be very important. While all breeds of rabbits will need the very best food for rabbits and plenty of space, toys, and love, each unique breed will have different care requirements in order to thrive.

We spoke to vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out which bunnies will make the perfect pets. Let's dive in!

Best bunnies for pets

If you are a first-time rabbit owner, you will want to read up on our top tips for taking care of rabbits. Dr. Rebecca MacMillan also advises against certain breeds for new bunny parents. Breeds with extreme features including giant rabbit breeds and those with flattened faces also known as brachycephalic breeds.

"These bunnies will have specific needs and may be more prone to developing certain health issues like dental disease," says Dr. MacMillan.

So what breeds are best for first-time owners? Here they are...

Dutch rabbits

One of the most recognizable breeds due to their two color patterns, the Dutch rabbit is great option for pet owners. They are easy-going in nature and are known for being calm and gentle.

Holland lops

Holland Lops rabbits make great pets as they are compact in size and generally pretty easy-going. They are originally from the Netherlands and were bred to be a smaller version of the French Lop. They are now one of the most popular breeds in the United States.

Lionhead rabbit

We cannot get over how stinking cute the lionhead rabbit is! Not only do they have a gorgeous mane of fur but they are an incredibly friendly breed. They will enjoy playing around with some best rabbit toys.

Harlequin rabbit

The most striking rabbit we've ever seen: the Harlequin rabbit is known for their markings and it's easy to see why. This breed is intelligent and very calm in nature. They would make an excellent addition to any family.

English spot rabbit

This rabbit is very active so having one of the best rabbit runs is a must so they can stretch their legs. Their distinctive markings are their chain of spots that run from their neck to their hind legs.

Tips for taking care of rabbits

If you are a new bunny parent, you might be thinking 'Can rabbits live alone?' While the answer is technically yes, they will have a much fuller and happier life when they live with another rabbit. We recommend keeping rabbits in neutered pairs.

Dr. MacMillan says, "This is essential for them to be able to perform natural behaviors such as mutual grooming. Rabbits are social animals in the wild and can become lonely and bored when kept alone, which can affect their quality of life."

When it comes to the do's and don'ts of feeding rabbits, you'll want to be sure that they have plenty of access to hay as it makes up 85% of their diet. You may also want to check out 32 surprising things rabbits can eat.

"Rabbits should be fed a predominantly hay or grass-based diet. This high-fiber diet helps to keep their teeth worn down and their digestion in good order," says Dr. MacMillan.

How much space does a rabbit need?

How much space does a rabbit need? For such a small pet, rabbits need a lot of space. They need plenty of room to run, burrow and practice their bunny binkies! Dr. MacMillan recommends their space to be a minimum of 3m(l) x 2m(w) x 1m(h).

Enjoyed this feature? Find out what your rabbit's body language is trying to tell you

As the weather gets colder, you might be wondering how to keep a rabbit warm in the winter. That's why we've called in vet Dr. MacMillan to share her expert advice and answer your important questions like, 'How cold is too cold for a rabbit?'

There are lots of ways that you can keep your bunny warm, like putting extra insulation in the best outdoor rabbit hutch and making sure that no drafts can get in. If your rabbit gets too cold, it can lead to hypothermia, frostbite, or even death, so it's essential you take all the steps listed below.

You might be curious how wild rabbits do so well in frosty climates, and Dr. MacMillan explains that it's because they're better adapted. She says: "Wild rabbits are better adapted to very low temperatures and live in groups that can snuggle up to each other in small cozy burrows."

How do I keep my rabbit warm in the winter?

Here are her top tips for keeping your rabbit warm in the winter:

1. Give them a warm place to rest
To keep your bunny toasty when they're sleeping, make sure you provide them with more nesting materials, like the best bedding for rabbits. You could also put a fleecy cover over a heat pad (like this one on Amazon), but just make sure it's chew-proof like the one we recommend below.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "You could also line the area with newspaper which will provide extra insulation. [This will also] help to soak up any spills or moisture from toileting which might make things cold and damp. Rabbits are best kept in pairs or groups, and you will find that they can stay warm by snuggling with their companions for extra body heat. A single rabbit is more susceptible to drops in temperature."

2. Ensure their home and exercise area is in good repair
Have a look around for damp patches that can cause mold, ammonia build-up, and respiratory issues for your bunny. You'll also need to lift their living quarters off the ground to prevent them from becoming rotten or damp and check for any cracks to stop drafts.

The roofing needs to be watertight to keep them dry and you should insulate their home with materials like blankets and old carpets. You can also put a waterproof cover or tarpaulin over the top.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "Just ensure that they still get some ventilation through any wire mesh areas, these could be covered with a loose-fitting transparent sheet of plastic."

3. Move them indoors if you need to
Be prepared to move your rabbit indoors if the weather gets too cold – especially if it's snowy or icy! If you can't bring them into your home, you could put them in an unused garage or a large shed, but they'll need a window for some natural light and one of the best indoor rabbit hutch setups.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Remember that if this space is unheated then their enclosure will still need the extra insulation and bedding that was advised earlier."

4. Check their water and food
This step doesn't technically keep them warm, but it's something that should definitely be on your checklist! In the winter, water bowls and bottles can freeze up so you'll want to check them daily to ensure they have access to fresh water.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Make sure that your rabbits get enough greens during the winter, alongside ad-lib hay. They won’t be able to forage as easily for dandelions and grass when it is cold and frosty."

Here's some more expert advice on what to feed a rabbit and a guide to the best hay for rabbits.

What temperature is too cold for rabbits?

You should keep your rabbit's home between 50-68° F (10-20°C). According to Dr. MacMillan, this is the temperature that most bunnies prefer to live in, so they'll be happy if it's in this range.

How do I know if my bunny is warm enough?

Your rabbit will display all their normal behaviors if they warm enough, like playing, eating and producing lots of feces. However, if you're still concerned, Dr. MacMillan suggests measuring their environment's temperature with a thermometer.

She adds: "Rabbits don’t hibernate, so if yours seem quiet, limp, or very sleepy then take them to a vet immediately."

Found this helpful? We also have a guide with tips from a vet on housing rabbits outdoors.

Healthy pet rabbits can live for 10–12 years, but sadly many bunnies have a much shorter lifespan due to disease. They thrive on an appropriate, high-fiber diet, as well as a clean living area, a low-stress environment, and plenty of space to exercise. Vaccinations against common fatal illnesses are essential.

Because rabbits are prey animals, they often won’t show symptoms even of serious disease until it is too late, so it‘s worth having a clue what to look out for. This means you can always be alert to the smallest of signs that may indicate something’s amiss, know what’s normal for your bunny, and nip problems in the bud. We also recommend investing in some of the best pet insurance to help offset costs in the event you need to take your bunny to the vet.

Certain illnesses are particularly common in pet rabbits – some are genetic, others contagious; they may be bacterial, viral, parasitic, or due to the environment. Let’s take a look so we can pick up the earliest signals and prompt treatment.

32 common illnesses rabbits can get

1. Malocclusion

Overgrown teeth – often a result of malocclusion – are a common problem in rabbits. Their teeth never stop growing, by 2–3mm every week, and if they are not worn down naturally by chewing and gnawing, this can cause major issues. It is one of the most likely reasons your rabbit will need to see the vet. Dental disease can cause serious pain as the teeth grow into the opposing lips, ulcers can form, and the list goes on. They can suffer anorexia and it can even be fatal if they are unable to chew and swallow.

While overgrown teeth per se are not a disease, malocclusion is typically inherited – when the upper and lower teeth don’t meet properly and therefore don’t wear down correctly, causing overgrowth. Malocclusion can also occur due to a poor diet or a traumatic injury to the mouth.

2. Snuffles

Snuffles is a bacterial upper respiratory infection when the mucous membranes of the air passages and lungs become inflamed. Look out for a watery discharge from the nose and eyes, which may become pus-like. You’ll notice the rabbit coughing and sneezing like anyone with a cold – and it is similarly infectious. Most rabbits should make a full recovery with treatment, but it can take months.

3. Hairballs

A non-infectious disorder that comes about by the rabbit self-grooming. Usually, the hair they inevitably swallow will pass through the digestive tract, but if they eat a lot – or it builds up in the stomach – it will cause a blockage or hairball. If it truly blocks the gastrointestinal tract, emergency surgery is required to remove it. A high-fiber diet is essential as well as one or two of the best rabbit toys to gnaw on, to prevent excessive hair chewing.

4. Uterine tumors

The most common tumor in rabbits is uterine adenocarcinoma, which is a malignant uterine tumor. Because they are so prevalent, vets tend to recommend spaying rabbits by six months old, to prevent these tumors from developing in the stomach and spreading to other organs.

5. Myxomatosis

This deadly disease is caused by a type of pox virus, the myxoma virus, which can be transmitted by insects and ticks. It results in sores on the skin, which are benign tumors made up of mucus and a gelatinous material. The first symptom is inflammation of the eye area, which will progressively be accompanied by a milky discharge.

The rabbit will become lethargic, febrile, and lose its appetite as all the facial and genital features swell up. Death can follow within 48 hours and the maximum life expectancy after the onset of symptoms is a fortnight, so euthanasia is usually suggested.

6. Calicivirus

Annual vaccinations are recommended to prevent your pet rabbit from contracting this serious disease, which is highly infectious and contagious. It is also known as rabbit hemorrhagic disease (RHDV2), and infection results in fever, liver damage, and intestinal inflammation followed by a blood clotting disorder, and multi-organ hemorrhage. Rabbits typically do not show many symptoms and die within 24 hours of the fever occurring. It has a 60–90% fatality rate.

7. Flystrike

Flystrike – officially termed myiasis – is a serious and potentially deadly condition. It occurs when flies lay their eggs on the rabbit – typically on dirty or injured skin – which rapidly hatch into maggots, which burrow down to feed on the tissues. This is intensely traumatic and painful; it may cause the rabbit to scream. The maggots also release toxins which can cause shock.

Any sign of maggots on your rabbit is an emergency. The best plan is never to let it happen in the first place. Good hygiene is essential, both in the rabbit’s living area and on the animal itself.

8. Wet dewlap

Also known as moist dermatitis, this affects the heavy fold of skin on the front of female rabbits. When some rabbits drink, they can spill water onto this dewlap, which becomes soggy and inflamed. It can deteriorate into an infection – and even an invitation for flies to lay eggs, causing flystrike.

9. GI stasis

GI (gastrointestinal) stasis is when the passage of food through the gut slows down, which makes gas-producing bacteria multiply, causing bloating, constipation, discomfort, and loss of appetite. While not as much of an emergency as a hairball blocking the gut, it can still be life-threatening if left untreated to get the GI tract moving again.

10. Mites

There are several types of mites that are common in rabbits: ear mites, fur mites, and mange mites.

Ear mites are parasites irritating the lining of the ear, which can cause infection and related problems such as head tilt. If you spot a crusty inner ear with tiny bugs, it’s definitely time to take action.

Fur mites live on the skin, and do not burrow down into the tissue. They look more like dandruff and do not tend to cause more than mild irritation unless the rabbit is already compromised. This can be treated with a simple permethrin powder.

Mange mites, which burrow into the skin and lay eggs causing sarcoptic mange (pictured), are rare in rabbits, however, they cause severe itchiness and are difficult to eradicate.

11. Encephalitozoonosis

A common infection is caused by parasites which is common in rabbits. It results in kidney disease as well as affecting the brain, provoking seizures, tremors, and other neurological symptoms. If treated promptly it can be cured, but once the clinical signs are severe it can be fatal.

It spreads via infected urine, or to the fetus from the mother in the womb. Good hygiene is key for prevention.

12. Coccidiosis

A common parasitic disease, which has two forms: hepatic (liver) and intestinal coccidiosis. Both illnesses are transmitted by water or food contaminated with the Eimeria protozoa. The hepatic version is usually mild, affecting young rabbits. They typically have no appetite and fail to gain weight. Occasionally it can be fatal.

Intestinal coccidiosis is also a mild disease, often with no clinical symptoms. Good hygiene is essential for keeping the infection at bay.

13. Enterotoxemia

This severe diarrhea develops very quickly, typically in young rabbits up to eight weeks old, but can affect older ones less commonly. Sadly, it normally ends fatally within a couple of days. A rabbit can go from seemingly healthy to dead overnight. It is caused by bacteria, but not that much is known about how it spreads, although it is believed that the disease is less prevalent when rabbits are fed high-fiber diets.

14. Tyzzer disease

A bacterial disease causing a lot of watery diarrhea. It usually results in death within three days, with nine out of 10 infected rabbits likely to succumb, and those that survive are compromised. The infection spreads via contaminated food or droppings, and poor hygiene and stress are considered contributing factors.

15. Colibacillosis

There are two types of colibacillosis, which is a bacterial disease – E coli – causing diarrhea. Infected baby rabbits up to two weeks old develop yellowish diarrhea, which is nearly always fatal. Weaned rabbits – aged four to six weeks old – tend to develop watery diarrhea. Infected bunnies usually die within five to 14 days, and those that do survive are likely to be stunted.

16. Proliferative enteropathy

Recently weaned rabbits showing signs of diarrhea, depression, and dehydration may be suffering from an infection caused by the Lawsonia intracellularis bacterium, which causes a disease called proliferative enteropathy – proliferative meaning increasing; enteropathy being an intestinal disease. However, unlike many bacteria-causing diarrhea diseases, this one is not usually fatal unless the rabbit’s immune system is already compromised.

17. Mucoid enteritis

This disease causes intestinal inflammation with excess mucus, which is present in the rabbit’s resulting diarrhea. The exact cause is not known but it is believed that stress, dietary changes, insufficient fiber, and other intestinal problems are factors. If you spot slippery diarrhea or mucus-covered droppings, a bloated stomach, and general sickness in your rabbit, consult your vet immediately as this can be fatal.

18. Rotavirus

This virus is usually caused by rabbits eating infected droppings and causes diarrhea. Rotavirus alone is not typically a fatal disease but it is often accompanied by other intestinal illnesses which combine to be deadly.

19. Heat stroke

Rabbits – particularly if pregnant – cannot deal well with temperatures once they climb over 80ºF, especially if their living areas are poorly ventilated. Always provide plenty of shade, fresh air, and free access to cool water. If it does get too hot outside, bring the rabbit indoors to keep cool or they may have a heart attack.

You can spot the signs – hot bunnies will stretch out to maximize their surface area and breathe fast. Gently spray them with cool water, place them near a fan, and consult your vet.

20. Tapeworm, roundworm and pinworm

Compared to dogs and cats, rabbits are not as susceptible to worm infestations, and so regular worming treatments are not essential. Tapeworms and roundworms are fairly rare. While tapeworms don’t really present noticeable symptoms as the rabbit is simply an intermediate host, roundworms can affect the rabbit’s nervous system.

The worm that more commonly affects rabbits is pinworm, which they can contract by eating the droppings of an infected rabbit. Pinworms can then live in the rabbit’s large intestine without presenting severe symptoms, although there may be itching and inflammation at their rear end. Luckily there are effective treatments.

21. Ringworm

Ringworm is not in fact a worm but a fungal infection that is common in rabbits. Look out for patches of bald skin, which may be flakey and look inflamed. It is contagious and is often associated with poor hygiene. Ringworm can spread to humans, so get those rubber gloves and pet-friendly disinfectant out!

22. Sore hocks

The medical term for sore hocks is ulcerative pododermatitis – which essentially means broken skin and inflammation of the feet. The hock in the rabbit is the back of the hind leg, like the human heel. This area can become inflamed and sore due to trauma (from stamping or standing on wire cages) and the skin then becomes infected. Urine in the cage can exacerbate the issue, and there is a genetic disposition in some of the heavier breeds, such as the rex and Flemish giant.

23. Corneal ulceration

An ulcer on the eyeball – corneal ulceration – is the most common ocular issue in rabbits due to their large eyes and minimal blinking, which means the eye dries out quickly.

24. Conjunctivitis

Conjunctivitis is when the tissue around the eye becomes inflamed, causing redness and the eyes to leak fluid. It can be caused by bacteria or dust and is likely to get worse without treatment.

25. Otitis media and interna

Both middle and inner ear infections are caused by bacteria. This may cause the rabbit to suffer head tilt, as their balance is affected by the infection. Bunnies may become dizzy, or disorientated; you may notice swelling, itching, or irritation in the ear canal. Ear infections can usually be treated with antibiotics.

26. Splay leg

As the name implies, splay leg is when a rabbit’s legs stick out at odd angles, which affects their ability to walk. It is thought to be a genetic condition, and is usually treated with splints, bandaging or even an operation, to try to restore a normal gait.

27. Pasteurellosis

This highly contagious bacterial infection is common in pet rabbits, many of whom carry the disease without showing symptoms. It typically causes a runny nose, pneumonia, sores and sometimes blood or reproductive tract infections.

28. Pneumonia

This common rabbit illness is often the result of a Pasteurella bacterial infection, causing inflammation in the lungs. Rabbits will usually have a fever, inappetence, and lethargy, and will require antibiotics.

29. Ketosis (pregnancy toxemia)

Mercifully this disorder is rare, but it can kill pregnant rabbits within days of giving birth, particularly if they are expecting their first litter. It occurs when the doe is not getting sufficient nutrition for her needs, so the body starts mobilizing the fat stores which build up into a toxic state. It is a rapid-onset disease and is often fatal. Obesity and poor diets are contributing factors.

30. Rabbit syphilis

Also known as vent disease and treponematosis, this is a contagious venereal disease transmitted via intercourse or from the doe to her litter. Rabbits will show blisters and sores which scab over, usually in the genital area, and also the eyes and lips.

31. Mastitis

This inflammation of the mammary glands is fairly rare in pet rabbits, but affects nursing does. Also known as “blue breasts”, this is a bacterial disease causing the glands to become hot, red, and swollen, typically with a fever. Key signs are the doe refusing to eat, fever, and the breast will be hot, and swollen and may have a bloody or foul-smelling discharge.

32. Hutch burn

Hutch burn is when the genital and anal region becomes inflamed, sore, and subsequently infected. It is due to wet and dirty cages, or rabbits who constantly dribble pee. Impeccable hygiene is essential.

They may be super fluffy and adorable, but there are lots of things to consider before getting a rabbit. We often think of bunnies as being low-maintenance pets, but believe it or not, rabbits require more time and energy than you might think.

It’s easy to get caught up in thinking about the basics — investing in the best indoor rabbit hutch, the right food, and fun toys, for example, and forget about some of the more complex parts of being a bunny parent.

Rabbits are energetic creatures who require lots of physical and mental stimulation as well as plenty of human interaction. They do best when kept in pairs and because they require gentle handling and are typically not fond of being cuddled, they’re not always a good choice for homes with young children.

But while they do have particular needs you’ll want to be aware of, with the right love and care, rabbits can make wonderful companions. Here are some things to consider before welcoming a floppy-eared friend into your family…

32 things to consider before getting a rabbit

1. Rabbits live a long time

How long do rabbits live? A lot longer than you might think! While most of us understand that getting a cat or a dog is going to be a long-term commitment, we often underestimate just how long a bunny could be in our lives. Rabbits live for eight to 12 years on average, so it’s worth making sure you’re prepared for that before you adopt one.

2. They behave a lot like wild rabbits

Pet rabbits will behave exactly as they do in the wild. That means they’ll freeze or run for cover whenever they feel frightened, which is exactly what they’d do in the wild where they’re prey for other animals and are often hunted. Because of that, rabbits need a shelter they can retreat to so that they feel safe and secure.

3. Rabbits love being indoors

It used to be common for rabbits to be housed outdoors, but we’ve since discovered that our bunnies do best when housed indoors with their humans where they can become a true member of the family. How to care for a house rabbit consists of providing them with the right housing, diet, and enrichment as well as litter box training and bunny-proofing your house. But while it can take a bit of work initially, it’s well worth it.

4. They need a lot of space

How much space does a rabbit need? More than we often realize. At first glance, rabbits seem like quite small animals, and yet the amount of space they need to thrive is fairly substantial. Whether your floppy-eared friend is going to be living indoors or outdoors, they’ll need an enclosed area of at least 3m x 2m (10ft x 6.5ft) and it should be at least 1m in height (3ft).

5. Companionship is vital

Your floppy-eared friend will need some bunny to love because when it comes to the question of can rabbits live alone, the answer is that it’s not ideal. Rabbits are social creatures who do best when they have another rabbit to keep them company. In the wild, they always live in groups, so for the sake of their health and wellbeing, we recommend adopting them in pairs. The best pairing is a neutered male with a neutered female.

6. Active is their middle name

Rabbits are active and energetic little creatures who need plenty of space to hop about and play with the best rabbit toys. You can attach a run to their enclosure or use a large crate to give them safe access to exercise each day, or, if you’ve bunny-proofed the room they live in, you can give them complete freedom to roam. Whatever you decide, make sure they get at least four hours out of their enclosure each day.

7. They need lots of mental stimulation

Alongside regular physical exercise, rabbits also need a whole lot of mental stimulation each day. You’ll want to make sure you provide them with plenty of options to keep themselves entertained, such as chew toys, puzzle feeders, treat balls, and places where they can dig and forage.

8. You'll need to groom them

Yes, just like with dogs and cats, rabbit grooming is something you’ll need to do on a regular basis. While rabbits are fastidious about keeping themselves clean, brushing them each day isn’t just great for keeping their fur free of mats and tangles, it’s also a brilliant way to bond with them. Aside from brushing, be sure to trim their nails and check them for parasites.

9. There's a lot more to their diet than carrots

We know, rabbits and carrots go together like peanut butter and jelly, but there’s a whole lot more a bunny’s body needs to thrive. When it comes to what to feed a rabbit, their diet should mainly consist of grass (whether fresh or in the form of hay) as well as some herbs, leafy green vegetables, and a small amount of pellets. While it may sound boring to us, keeping your rabbit’s diet as close to what they would eat in the wild as you can will ensure they stay healthy.

10. Rabbits need to be house trained

When it comes to how to house train a rabbit, the most important thing is to invest in one of the best rabbit litter boxes and an appropriate litter. Once you’ve done that, start small with your training, confining your rabbit to just one area rather than the whole house (which can be overwhelming and increase the chance of accidents) and slowly work up to giving them more space.

11. Regular vet checks are a must

Just like cats and dogs, rabbits require regular vet checks to ensure they stay healthy. We recommend your bunny has a thorough examination once a year, although elderly rabbits or those with health issues will need to see the vet more often.

12. They don't like to be held

We know — rabbits are just so darn irresistible with their soft fur and cuddly good looks! But many rabbits don’t like to be picked up and that’s partly due to the fact that in the wild, a lot of animals see them as prey so being handled can make them freeze. Also, just like us humans, bunnies have different temperaments, so some prefer not to be held and petted or like to be petted on their own terms. However, with the right socialization when they’re young, some rabbits will absolutely enjoy being petted on the ground and others may even come in for a cuddle.

13. Rabbits love to chew

There are tons of facts about rabbits that might surprise you. For example, did you know that rabbit teeth are open-rooted and will continue to grow at a rate of 2-3mm each week for the rest of their life? It’s true! That’s why it’s so important to provide them with appropriate chewing outlets as this allows them to wear down their ever-growing chompers. Hay, dried apple sticks, bamboo, certain types of untreated wood, and willow are all safe chewing materials for your bunny.

14. Every bunny has their own personality

Rabbit personalities vary greatly from one bunny to the next, which when you think about it is exactly the same as us humans! Some rabbits will be shy and timid, others extroverted and outgoing. Some will want to sit near you, others will want to cuddle right into you and then there are the rabbits that prefer to keep to themselves. When adopting a rabbit, remember that they are unique creatures and each will have its own character.

15. Rabbits need to be socialized

While some rabbits are naturally gregarious, others are shy and may try to hide away. To avoid your bunny becoming scared of people, it’s important to get them used to interacting with humans from the moment you bring them home. Petting and handling them (being sure to support their hind legs) will ensure they settle into their new environment and become well-adjusted rabbits.

16. They can be fearful of other pets

Because they’re prey animals, rabbits are typically initially fearful of dogs and cats. However, if you introduce your bunny and other pets with care when your floppy-eared friend is young, they can go on to become good friends.

17. Rabbits aren't always ideal for children

When we think about the best first pets for children, rabbits often spring to mind — but more often than not, rabbits aren’t a great choice for children. Rabbits are fragile creatures and need very careful handling, they’re also not fond of excessive cuddling and many don’t like being picked up. If you have children and decide to get a pet rabbit, ensure their interactions are always supervised.

18. Bunnies can be expensive

For a small pet, rabbits sure can be expensive! Alongside the usual daily care, supplies, and annual check-ups, rabbits are also known for becoming unwell very quickly which means that by the time you get them to the vet, you may already be looking at a substantial bill to get them treated. Flat-faced breeds are also prone to expensive health conditions, so this is worth considering before you adopt one.

19. Gentle handling is very important

Rabbits are more delicate than you might think and they can also frighten easily, which is why when it comes to taking care of rabbits you want to handle them gently. When being picked up, it’s important to fully support their front and hind legs to avoid injuring their spine, and you never want to put a rabbit on its back. This is not a relaxing position for them and puts them into a state known as ‘tonic immobility’ which is the body’s freeze response. Being turned onto their back is highly stressful for rabbits so always keep them upright.

20. You’ll need to clean their habitat regularly

Rabbits need their enclosure thoroughly cleaned once or twice a week to keep their living space sanitary and odor-free. However, droppings and dirty litter need to be removed on a daily basis. When it comes to how to clean a rabbit cage, your once or twice-weekly deep clean should involve replenishing their bedding, sweeping their hutch, and cleaning down the entire thing with a pet-safe disinfectant.

21. They require a lot of attention

We have to confess, we had no idea until recently just how much attention rabbits require. It’s easy to think that because they’re small, they can be easily left to their own devices, but our floppy-eared friends need a minimum of four hours a day of human interaction. We recommend you let your bunny spend time with you whenever you’re home and awake — it doesn’t have to be exhausting either, they’ll be more than happy to sit next to you on the couch and watch Netflix at the end of a long, hard day!

22. Rabbits shed a lot

Have you ever found yourself asking the question ‘Why is my rabbit shedding so much?’ — while there are certainly health issues that can cause excessive shedding, rabbits naturally molt every three months and that means a whole lot of fluff on your floors. Grooming your rabbit regularly will help to limit the amount of fur you need to clean up but it’s worth speaking to your vet to get some grooming tips as bunnies have notoriously sensitive skin.

23. They can be destructive

If you’re planning on welcoming a rabbit into your family, you’ll definitely want to learn how to bunny-proof a room. As cute as they may be, rabbits are also very fond of chewing and digging, which means they have the potential to destroy your furniture, carpets, flooring, and anything else they can get their teeth and paws on. It’s also important to note that electric cables and cords look the same to our floppy-eared friends as the roots and twigs they’d nibble on in the wild, so be sure to secure these away using the appropriate tubing.

24. Rabbits are slow to trust

It tends to take rabbits quite a bit of time to form trusting bonds with their humans. It’s not because they’re not wonderfully friendly and loving pets, but remember that they are prey animals in the wild and so it’s a natural survival instinct for them to be wary of strangers. With time and patience, your bunny will slowly start to feel safe with you, which will make them want to come closer.

25. Dental problems are common

When it comes to common rabbit diseases, dental disease is right up there. This is commonly caused by an incorrect diet but some rabbits may also be born with dental issues. Chewing hay and wooden toys help rabbits to prevent their teeth from overgrowing, however, some rabbits have teeth that are out of alignment which means they aren’t able to grind down properly and the teeth continue to grow. It’s important to take your rabbit to the vet for regular tooth trimming if they have a dental problem that prevents them from being able to do this themselves.

26. Rabbits can get uterine cancer

Uterine cancer is one of the most common forms of cancer in rabbits and affects up to 80% of female rabbits over the age of three who are still capable of reproducing and once the disease takes hold, most rabbits don’t recover. The good news is that this form of cancer is completely preventable if a female rabbit is spayed, which is why we recommend doing this as soon as it’s safe to do so — most vets will carry out this procedure once a female bunny is between four and six months of age.

27. A rabbits poop will tell you a lot about their health

If you own a rabbit, you don’t need us to tell you that they poop a lot — up to 200 times a day to be exact! Rabbits stay healthy through the constant movement of their digestive system and healthy poo tends to resemble a cocoa puff. Keeping an eye on your rabbit's poop and watching for anything outside of the norm will help alert you to any potential health issues early on.

28. Bunnies are bigger than you think

We often think of rabbits as being fairly small pets and they’re certainly categorized that way, but in reality, rabbits routinely reach weights of six to eight pounds with the biggest breeds tipping the scales at 15 pounds or more. That’s bigger than many cat and dog breeds!

29. Their thump is really loud

Do you like the quiet life? If so, you might think it makes sense to get a rabbit. And on the one hand that’s true. Rabbits don’t meow like cats or bark like dogs, but believe it or not, when a rabbit is scared or angry, they’ll thump, which sounds a bit like a heavy textbook has just fallen off your bookshelf. While thumping isn’t particularly common amongst house rabbits, it does still happen from time to time and, once they get going, rabbits will tend to thump for several minutes.

30. Rabbits can get sick very quickly

Rabbits have evolved to hide their weaknesses, which means they’re very clever at covering up when they’re unwell. This can make it very difficult to know that they’re sick until they start to present with more extreme symptoms. Pay close attention to any changes in eating and grooming habits as well as fluctuating energy levels and drooling. If you notice anything concerning, be sure to get them checked over by a vet as soon as possible.

31. You can learn a lot from their body language

Ever wondered what your rabbit’s body language is trying to tell you? When rabbits are happy, they tend to do what’s known as a binky — where they run, jump, and do a half twist. Although it’s most common to see younger, energetic bunnies do this, older bunnies will do binkies when they’re happy, too. They also have their own version of the zoomies, where they’ll run around in circles. In contrast, bunnies that are worried or stressed tend to sit in a crouched position with their ears flat and their muscles tense. Understanding rabbit body language can give you valuable information about your bunny’s physical and mental wellbeing.

32. Rabbits multiply quickly

We almost fell off our chairs when we learned that a single unspayed female rabbit could give birth to as many as 30 babies in one breeding season. Rabbits can become pregnant again within hours of giving birth (yes, we know, it sounds exhausting) so be sure to get your floppy-eared friend spayed to avoid having to deal with a ton of bunny babies!

Enjoyed this? You might also want to learn about International Rabbit Day and how to keep a rabbit warm in the winter.

International Rabbit Day is right around the corner and we can't wait to celebrate with the furry friends in our lives. Not only is it a great excuse to spoil your bunny and share hundreds of photos of them online, but you can also raise awareness about their welfare and the organizations that help them.

Whether you treat your bunny to one of the best rabbit toys, or donate to a local animal shelter, there are lots of ways to get involved which we've listed below.

Rabbits are the third most popular pet in the Western world, according to the Journal of Animals (Basel), but experts are increasingly worried about their welfare. In fact, the study revealed that 78% of UK vets do not think that bunnies' needs are being met. That's why it's super important to learn about rabbit care before bringing one home and to educate your peers who are thinking of getting one.

Here's everything you need to know about International Rabbit Day and five ways to celebrate the occasion:

When is International Rabbit Day?

International Rabbit Day is on Saturday, 28 September 2024. It falls on the fourth Saturday of September each year.

What is International Rabbit Day?

International Rabbit Day is the annual celebration of bunnies and is a chance to promote their welfare and protection. Organizations encourage people to adopt rabbits, as opposed to buying them, and run educational workshops on how to take care of them. They might also host fundraising events, like bake sales and fun runs, to raise money for rescued rabbits.

Who started International Rabbit Day?

International Rabbit Day was started by The Rabbit Charity in 1998. Whilst this organization no longer exists, bunny lovers still celebrate the occasion every year.

How to celebrate on International Rabbit Day

1. Adopt a rescue rabbit

Did you know that 67,000 rabbits end up in shelters every year? So, if you're thinking about getting a bunny, we recommend adopting rather than shopping. Before you do so, make sure you're prepared for the responsibility - they're not as easy to look after as you might think and require lots of care.

If you're wondering, 'What do rabbits need in their cage?' we've put together a complete checklist for you to follow. Remember, rabbits can live up to five to ten years so consider where you and your family will be in this time.

2. Volunteer at a rescue shelter

If you're not ready to commit to adopting a bunny, you could volunteer at your local rescue center. You'll get the chance to spend time with them and make a positive difference to their lives. Alternatively, you might want to make a donation to support the work they do.

3. Educate and raise awareness

The best way to celebrate this special day is to educate yourself and others about their welfare. You could learn about what to feed a rabbit, how to house them, and the health care they require. Once you've finished your research, you can share it with fellow rabbit lovers.

4. Treat your rabbit to a new toy

Rabbits will spend around two to three hours playing and exercising daily, so they must have enough toys to keep them mentally and physically stimulated. As well as treating them to something new, you could try these games for rabbits.

6. Share a snap of your rabbit

If you love taking photos of your rabbit, now is your chance to share them with the world. When you post them, use the hashtags #InternationalRabbitDay, #WorldRabbitDay, or #WorldBunnyDay.

Is International Rabbit Day different to Rabbit Awareness Week?

Yes, International Rabbit Day is different from Rabbit Awareness Week.

Rabbit Awareness Week was founded by The Rabbit Awareness Action Group (RAAG) and Burgess Pet Care in 2006 and this year it was celebrated on 24 to 28 June.

You might also want to read our 32 tips for taking care of rabbits or these interesting rabbit facts.

Are you currently researching housing rabbits indoors? If so, you’re not alone. A recent poll by the PDSA found that, for the first time ever, there are more pet rabbits living indoors than rabbits housed outdoors.

In this article we’ll go through some common questions potential owners have about housing rabbits indoors, and take a look at how to make sure your bunnies lead happy lives inside. We spoke with vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan for her expert take on how to keep house rabbits healthy.

Is it OK to keep rabbits indoors?

Most rabbits can live indoors, so long as they are properly cared for and provided with adequate accommodation. Here are some tips from a vet about how to care for a house rabbit.

How much space does a house rabbit need?

The answer to the very common question of "How much space does a rabbit need?" is more than you might think.

“House rabbits should have as much space as possible. As a minimum, they should have access to a 3m x 2m by 1m [10ft x 6.5ft x 3ft] high area at all times. Within or attached to this exercising area you should ensure your rabbit has a living space to retreat to,” says Dr MacMillan.

As well as an exercise area, they should have a dedicated spot for sleeping, too. “A hutch is an ideal cosy area for a rabbit to sleep in, as long as it measures a minimum of 1.8m x 0.6m x 0.6m high,” she adds. We’ve rounded up a selection of the best indoor rabbit hutches that meet these requirements.

What accommodation does an indoor rabbit need?

When it comes to housing rabbits indoors, there are three main options:

• Free range – rabbits are given the run of the house
• A room – rabbits are given access to a rabbit-proofed room
• Part of a room – an area of a room is securely cordoned off for the rabbits

The free-range option is a big commitment, as you’ll need to make sure everywhere the rabbit has access to is rabbit-proofed. If you like this option, start with a smaller area first, especially if you are getting young bunnies and still working on litter training your house rabbit.

The next two options are more common, as it’s easier to rabbit proof one room than the whole house! Popular options are utility rooms and kitchens, as these often have solid flooring which is easier to clean than carpet. Conservatories are sometimes used, but you’d have to be mindful of it not overheating in summer.

“The advantage of having a specific area of the house is that you can ensure it is completely rabbit-safe and easy to clean. Carpets can get soiled or damaged through digging, so bear this in mind when deciding where to situate your pet,” says Dr MacMillan.

Can an indoor rabbit go outside?

Yes, in fact it’s encouraged.

“I always recommend that owners take their house rabbits outside if they can. Rabbits require vitamin D for healthy teeth and bones (just as we do), so getting natural sunlight will help with this. House rabbits can be deficient in vitamin D as glass can block certain UV rays,” advises Dr MacMillan.

It’s not just their physical health that benefits from a run around outside either.

“I also believe that it is important for their mental well-being, with different sights and smells providing much-needed stimulation. Most rabbits will also enjoy the opportunity to graze on fresh grass and the soft ground tends to be better on a rabbit’s delicate feet and hocks than carpeted or hard floors,” adds Dr MacMillan.

But how do you facilitate outdoors time for an indoor rabbit? If you have a garden, a large exercise enclosure or one of the best rabbit runs would be ideal and usually preferable compared to the best rabbit harnesses.

“A harness and leash can be used on a rabbit but remember that they need to be gradually trained to accept it. Rabbits are also prey animals so can feel vulnerable to attack if walked in an area where cats and dogs might be present, so this should be avoided,” says Dr MacMillan.

How to keep an indoor rabbit happy

Indoor rabbits can lead happy and fulfilled lives, so long as they are properly cared for. This means plenty of stimulation and, where possible, access to outside.

“Indoor rabbits require plenty of mental stimulation as well as having a large enough area to run and jump in. Owners should have plenty of interactive toys, changing them regularly to avoid boredom. Provide plenty of bedding material so that your rabbit can display natural behaviours like nesting and digging. Some owners may even provide a digging box, filled with substrate or soil for their rabbits to dig around in,” advises Dr MacMillan.

We’ve put together guides on the best rabbit toys and best rabbit bedding options to help you keep your rabbit stimulated.

Can indoor rabbits live with other pets?

Rabbits should live in pairs wherever possible, as they have evolved to live in groups and without another rabbit they simply won't thrive.

However, a pair of rabbits can live with certain other species, too. There are plenty of cases of rabbits living with dogs and cats, it depends on the individual animal in question and whether or not they show predatory behaviours.

When adding new pets to your home, it's important to remember that your first duty of care should be to the animals that you already have.

Should I vaccinate my indoor rabbit?

“You should still vaccinate your house bunnies as fatal diseases can be spread from infected wild rabbits by insects, such as flies or mosquitoes. These insects can easily enter our homes, so it is best to protect your pets,” says Dr MacMillan.

Can you litter train a rabbit?

Rabbits are surprisingly easy to litter train, though no animal is perfect and you should brace for the occasional accident. To house-train a rabbit, start off with one of the best rabbit litter boxes in a small area whey they usually go to the toilet. Gradually increase the space they have access to as they become more reliable with their tray. Here are some more tips on how to litter train a rabbit.

Want to learn more about caring for rabbits? Here are our favourite interesting rabbit facts, advice on how to cut a rabbit’s nails and how to keep a rabbit cool in the summer

Treats and tidbits are a big part of owning a pet, whether it’s to train, reward, encourage, or even just indulge and boost your bond. While you might associate treating with dog moms and cat dads, bunny parents have just as much cause to teach their rabbits new skills and tricks. For example, treats form a big part of how to house train a rabbit, or could be something you scatter through some hay for rabbits to help enrich your bunny’s day-to-day.

Before you prepare a tasty snack for your rabbit, it’s important to be aware of some of the hazards that everyday foods could pose to their sensitive digestive system. A rabbit’s diet should consist mostly of fiber, and while they do require certain levels of nutrients like calcium and carbohydrates, too many of these can contribute to health issues. Rabbits have a sweet tooth and will find it hard to resist some forbidden foods if they accidentally happen upon them, so it’s very important to bunny proof the rooms in your home that your furry can access.

What’s more, certain foods – even ones that seem harmless – contain compounds that are toxic to rabbits and can cause illness, or even death, when eaten in large quantities.

It’s important to know the dos and don’ts of feeding rabbits correctly. We’re focusing on the don’ts here, so read on and you’ll be halfway there!

32 things rabbits can't eat

1. Apple pips

While your bunny can happily munch on apple skin or flesh as an occasional treat, the pips should always be removed. Though small and harmless-looking they contain harmful toxins such as a tiny amount of cyanide. While humans would have to eat close to 100 apple pips before doing themself any damage (and I’m sure no one plans to do that any time soon), rabbits are much smaller so it’s not worth the risk even with one!

2. Lettuce

Some lettuces, such as icebergs, should be off-limits to your bunny as they contain and secrete lactucarium, a milk-like fluid. Lactucarium can have a sedative and potentially harmful effect on rabbits when ingested. Romaine lettuce is a good substitute.

3. Carrots

It’s not strictly true that carrots are totally off-limits to rabbits, but they should not be fed liberally – only in small amounts. Carrots are very high in carbohydrates, which can disturb your rabbit’s sensitive gut and cause a stomach upset. Don’t despair though – leafy green carrot tops are fine to feed to your bunny.

4. Potatoes

Starchy foods like potatoes, shouldn’t be fed to rabbits as their sensitive, fiber-loving guts do poorly with too much starch. Feeding potatoes could cause soft stools that stick to your bunny’s fur and have you reaching for one of the best rabbit brushes.

Potatoes also contain a toxic naturally occurring substance called solanine. Ingestion of solanine can lead to decreased appetite, lethargy, and abdominal discomfort in bunnies.

5. Potato chips

Few among us can resist a chip, and your bunny would probably nibble on one if you offered it. However, processed foods are extremely high in carbohydrates and sugar, which are particularly harsh on your bunny’s digestive system and increase the risk of obesity.

6. Chives

Rabbits can eat fresh herbs like parsley, cilantro, and dill, but chives should be avoided entirely. Chives are part of the allium family, which contain substances such as the oxidant n-propyl disulfide that are toxic to rabbits. Consumption of chives can lead to a serious condition called hemolytic anemia, which causes the red blood cells to rupture and can lead to death.

7. Tomato leaves

Rabbits can eat the flesh of a tomato as a special treat, but be sure to keep your fluffy bun away from the rest of the tomato plant.

The seeds, stalks, and leaves of a tomato plant can be bad for rabbits when eaten in large quantities. This is because tomatine and solanine are present, which are poisonous to rabbits and can make them unwell.

8. Pits from stone fruit

Fruit stones are very hard, so might damage your bunny’s teeth, but there’s a much more pressing reason why rabbits shouldn’t eat them. Similar to apple pips, the stones from peaches, plums, and other such fruits contain cyanide and should never be given to rabbits.

9. Onions

Onions, like chives, are another member of the allium family and contain organosulfur and thiosulphate. Both these compounds are toxic to rabbits and can cause them to become very ill, so should be avoided.

10. Aloe vera

While it can offer many benefits to humans, aloe should not be fed to rabbits. The plant contains compounds such as aloin, which can prove toxic to rabbits. Ingestion of aloe vera can also cause digestive discomfort and diarrhea.

11. Cheese

Bunnies just aren’t built to digest dairy products like cheese. While they do benefit from certain levels of calcium for teeth and bone health, cheese is very calcium-rich. Overloading bunnies with calcium can lead to too much in the system, which can cause kidney stones to develop.

More important than this, though, rabbits simply don’t possess the right gut bacteria to digest dairy, so it is never appropriate to offer it.

12. Lentils

Legumes like lentils are a vegan staple in human diets, but their high starch content means they are not appropriate for your rabbit’s sensitive digestive system.

13. Bread

High in carbohydrates, the nutritional composition of bread isn’t of much value to a rabbit and could upset your bunny’s tummy.

It’s best to avoid highly processed foods such as bread due to the levels of sugar, starch, and carbohydrates. As well as potentially leading to soft stools and digestive discomfort, bread is too high in calories for rabbits and can lead to extreme weight gain. Even with one of the best rabbit harnesses, it would take a lot of walking to counter the effects of regular nibbles on bread.

14. Rhubarb

You’d be forgiven for thinking that your bunny would be safe to eat rhubarb – after all, it’s a stalky, leafy vegetable. However, all parts of a rhubarb plant are toxic to rabbits and could lead to poisoning.

The common signs of rhubarb poisoning include sores on the mouth, reduced appetite, dehydration, abdominal pain, and diarrhea.

15. Avocado

We’ve ruled out the toast but there’s more bad brunch news: your rabbit can’t even have the avocado on top of it!

All parts of an avocado – skin, pit, leaves, and flesh – contain persin, a compound that can be extremely toxic to bunnies. Even if it wasn’t dangerous to eat, avocados are a seed and much too high in calories for a rabbit’s nutritional needs.

16. Ivy

Have you spotted ivy in your backyard? While there are some garden plants that are safe for rabbits, ivy is not among their number. In fact, it is just one of the many plants that are poisonous to rabbits.

All parts of an ivy plant are toxic to rabbits but in particular the leaves and berries. Signs of poisoning can vary from lethargy to twitching and fitting. Suspected poisoning requires immediate veterinary attention, as a high level is often fatal.

17. Garlic

Another member of the allium family, garlic contains compounds toxic to rabbits. However, due to its strong smell, bunnies aren’t likely to want to try it!

18. Chocolate

While this tasty treat is the go-to for most people, rabbits can’t safely have it because of its dairy and sugar content. More importantly, though, it can lead to the build-up of theobromine in your bun’s system which can cause multiple organ diseases and even organ failure.

19. Meat

This is an obvious one, but because rabbits are herbivores they are not equipped to digest animal protein, and therefore shouldn’t eat meat.

20. Mushrooms

We all know that wild, unfamiliar fungi might be harmful to eat, but even mushrooms picked up at the store or farmer’s market can be hazardous to rabbits, who might be susceptible to the mycotoxins present in them both at the raw and cooked stage.

21. Broad and kidney beans

Super-high in carbohydrates, beans can upset your bunny’s tummy and cause him pain, bloating or soft stools.

22. Leeks

Surprise! It’s another pesky member of the allium family. This means leeks should be off-limits to rabbits, due to the potential to cause hemolytic anemia

23. Pasta

It might be one of life’s greatest pleasures, but your rabbit won’t appreciate dry or fresh pasta as a snack in the long run.

Processed foods like pasta contain more sugar and carbohydrates than your rabbit’s delicate gut can deal with. While eating one stray noodle by accident wouldn’t be the end of the world, pasta should never form a part of a bunny’s diet.

24. Breakfast cereal

It might seem like breakfast cereal is healthy and nutritionally balanced, especially if it says it’s low in sugar on the box, but it’s important to note that breakfast cereals are formulated with a human’s nutritional needs in mind – and even then they aren’t always the best things for us to overindulge in!

It’s the same old story with breakfast cereal – it’s too high in starch, sugar, and carbohydrates for a rabbit to safely consume.

25. Hamster food

Both are cute, both cuddly, both have an adorable set of chompers and a little tail. Seems as though they are alike, but why can’t a rabbit eat hamster food?

The short answer is that while rabbits are herbivores, and can only eat plant materials, hamsters are omnivorous, meaning they can consume plant and animal matter. If we consider the full picture, this means that hamsters have a completely different set of nutritional requirements to rabbits, and feeding your bunny hamster food would likely give them a menu that they aren’t built to deal with, especially as a rabbit’s daily intake of fiber is drastically higher than that of a hamster. As we know, fiber is super-important to a rabbit’s healthy digestion, so it’s easy to see why hamster food isn’t appropriate.

26. Corn (and husks)

Corn and their husks are off-limits to rabbits. The former because it is too starchy and sugary and the latter because it is hard to break down, and could block your rabbit’s digestive tract.

27. Dates

Why do we love dates? Because they are naturally sticky and sweet. That alone should tell us why they could upset a rabbit’s stomach – they’re much too high in sugar and carbohydrates for safe consumption.

28. Buttercup

These sweet yellow flowers look harmless enough, but they contain a compound that can irritate human skin. This same irritant can cause mouth ulcers and gastrointestinal upset in animals who overindulge in them.

29. Yogurt

Just like with cheese, rabbits don’t possess a digestive system capable of processing dairy. Yogurt has added sugar, too, which can lead to obesity and tooth decay.

Next time you’re in the pet store looking to pick up a tasty treat for your bunny, you might spot yogurt drops marketed for rabbits – but these are not recommended, despite what the packaging states. If you want a healthy treat for your rabbit, you could consult our list of surprising things rabbits can eat.

30. Peas

Peas are another food high in sugar and carbohydrates, and as such are best avoided.

31. Most seeds

The majority of seeds are not poisonous to rabbits, but they are high-calorie and therefore are not suitable for rabbits in large quantities.

32. Muesli mixes

There’s a wide variety of rabbit feed out there but the two most popular options are pelleted feed and muesli mixes. Now, pellets might look like a dull option. However, when it comes to the feed in your rabbit’s bowl, boring can be better.

All good quality and best food for rabbits should be nutritionally balanced, which means you can be assured that your rabbit has consumed the correct diet when you feed according to the packet instructions. The problem arises, though, when your rabbit decides certain items in his muesli mix are his favorite. You’ll then find that he likes to pick out his favorite bits and leave the less exciting ones, meaning he isn’t getting the full spectrum of nutrients from his bowl.

Although nuggets take away your bunny’s freedom to be picky, they’ll be more likely to clear their bowl and get the balanced diet they need. Besides, you can pique their interest with leafy greens and other fruit and veg fed alongside their feed and hay.

Looking for tips for taking care of rabbits? We’ve got you covered! Whether you’ve just welcomed a new floppy-eared friend into your family or you’re considering adopting, you’ll find a wealth of information below to help you look after your new pet or inform your decision on whether a bunny is the right buddy for you.

It can be easy to think that all a bunny needs is one of the best indoor rabbit hutches, some hay and pellets, and a few toys, but rabbits aren’t the low-maintenance pets we might believe they are. In reality, they need a lot of love and care in order to thrive, so it’s important to be well-prepared and know what you’re getting into.

However, if you have the time and energy to devote to them, these super social little creatures can make wonderful companions. Ready to find out more? Well, keep calm and carrot on reading as we reveal our top tips for taking care of rabbits…

32 tips for taking care of rabbits

1. Housing

Housing rabbits is a little bit more complicated than you might think. Firstly, you need to decide if you want them to live inside or outside as that will largely determine how much space you have to work with. However, regardless of whether your bunny is going to be an indoor or outdoor dwelling pet, you need to make sure you provide them with plenty of space. Any living area should be at least 3m x 2m x 1m high and their sleeping quarters (for example, a hutch) should be a minimum of 1.8m x 0.6m x 0.6m high.

2. Bedding

When it comes to the best bedding for rabbits, things like hay, straw, aspen shavings, paper, and blankets are all great choices. All rabbits need bedding (yes, including those that live indoors) as this helps them to feel cozy and secure. Plus, for rabbits that live outdoors, bedding also helps to provide an extra layer of warmth and insulation, which is important in the colder months.

3. Food

Believe it or not, rabbits don’t actually need to eat lots of pellets. While these can make up a part of their diet, the best food for rabbits should consist mainly of grass and hay, and the odd treat here and there in the form of bits of carrot and certain fruits.

4. Water

When it comes to the question of what do rabbits need in their cage, water is one of the most important. Your bunny needs 24/7 access to clean and fresh water to ensure they stay hydrated. How much should they drink? Most vets agree that a rabbit should be consuming around 50 to 150ml of water per kg of bodyweight.

5. Toys

Most of us know that toys are important for dogs and cats, but it turns out they’re equally vital for our floppy-eared friends. The best rabbit toys would encourage your bunny to engage in all the natural behaviors they’d engage in if they were in the wild, such as digging, jumping and chewing. We recommend providing them with a variety of items, including tunnels, mirrors, cardboard, and balls as well as chew toys and foraging toys.

6. Litter tray

Learning how to litter train a rabbit is actually easier than you might think and aside from investing a small amount of time and patience, all you need is one of the best rabbit litter boxes and the best litter for rabbits and the rest will hopefully be smooth sailing. When it comes to choosing a litter tray, look for one that your rabbit can comfortably sit in at one end with enough space at the other end for aspen shavings or recycled paper.

7. Exercise run

The best rabbit runs are an ideal way to give your bunny some extra space to move around in. While a hutch gives your rabbit a place to sleep, a run gives them an additional area in which to play and exercise. If you have an indoor rabbit and you have outdoor space, consider setting the run-up in your yard so that your bunny can explore and nibble on fresh grass. Don’t worry if you can only have it indoors though, what’s most important is not where the run is but that your rabbit gets the physical exercise they need to stay healthy.

8. Tunnels

Who knew tunnels could be so fun? Well, apparently, rabbits! Our floppy-eared friends are tunneling creatures by nature. In the wild, they dig to establish extensive warrens for themselves and their families. Buying a tunnel for them helps to recreate the feeling of safety and security these warrens offer and allows them to tap into their natural tunneling instinct.

9. Frequent brushing

If you want to keep your bunny’s coat tangle and mat-free, investing in one of the best rabbit brushes is a must. Rabbits shed constantly and they’re prone to developing intestinal blockages if they ingest too much fur while they’re grooming themselves or their companion, which is why it’s recommended you give them a good brush at least once a week.

10. Places to dig

Rabbits love to dig, so ensuring you provide them with an opportunity to engage in this natural behavior is vital for their mental health and well-being. If your rabbit lives outside without any wires under foot then you can create an area where there’s some crumbly soil. However, if they’re an indoor-dwelling rabbit, you can still provide them with a special place to dig by creating a digging box. A high-sided litter tray filled with sand or hay is perfect for this.

11. Regular nail trims

Wondering how to cut rabbit nails? If you’re anything like us the very thought probably fills you with nerves, but it’s easier than you might think — not to mention really important for their physical health. Rabbits' nails are constantly growing and while they may wear down naturally if they live outside and their nails are worn down by scratching and digging, most rabbits will need their nails trimmed every one to two months.

12. Things to chew on

Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously throughout their lives, so daily chewing is vital to help stop their teeth from overgrowing. Not only that, but they have an innate need to chew and this activity is something they really enjoy, which is why providing them with safe options that they can sink their teeth into is so important. When looking for chew toys, choose options made from hardwood, paper, and cardboard as these are all safe for them to chew on and won’t do them any harm if ingested in small amounts.

13. Keep them in pairs

Can rabbits live alone? Yes, but it’s not ideal. Rabbits are social animals who live in communities in the wild and bonded bunnies will groom each other, sleep together, and play together. These things are all super important for their mental health and wellbeing and without a fellow floppy-eared friend, they can suffer from depression and anxiety. However, when pairing rabbits, most vets recommend a neutered male and a neutered female to be the best pairing, although two males or two females from the same litter may work as long as you get them neutered quickly to avoid fighting.

14. Handle them gently

When it comes to our top tips for rabbit care, handling them gently is one you’ll want to be aware of. Rabbits have very fragile spines and these can be damaged if they feel insecure or unsafe and struggle when you hold them. Rabbits should never be picked up by their ears or the scruff of their neck and they should never be placed onto their back. Instead, place one hand under your rabbit’s chest, place your other hand under their hind legs and then lift them and hold them against your body — keep them nice and secure but don’t squeeze them too tightly.

15. Have them neutered

Neutering your pet rabbit is something all vets recommend you do as soon as possible — for male rabbits, this can happen from 10 weeks of age, but for females, this isn’t possible until they reach around five months old. Neutering prevents life-threatening health problems and prevents unwanted pregnancies. Just bear in mind that rabbits can get pregnant from three months of age, so males and females need to be kept separate just before this time until after they’re neutered.

16. Monitor their health

One of the best ways to ensure your rabbit stays happy and healthy is to conduct regular checks. Rabbits are vulnerable to infectious diseases and can also suffer from dental disease and other oral issues related to having continually growing teeth, so giving them a check-up once a day will help you catch any health problems early. As well as inspecting them physically, be on the lookout for any changes in behavior that may indicate illness or pain.

17. Provide them with lots of love and affection

Wondering how to tell if a rabbit is happy? Well, if they’re licking or nudging you, that’s definitely a good sign! Rabbits can be very affectionate pets and most of them enjoy spending time with their human companions. They may not behave in quite the same way dogs or cats do, but don’t let that fool you — rabbits are social creatures and need to interact with their humans in order to stay happy. Many love cuddling and quiet petting is also typically very much appreciated.

18. Bunny-proof your house

If you’re thinking of welcoming a floppy-eared friend into your family or you already have one, learning how to bunny proof a room is essential. Rabbits have a wonderful way of getting into just about everything and they love to chew, so be sure to keep all cables secure and use furniture protectors to keep your couch and chairs free from teeth marks.

19. Give them plenty of fresh greens

Fresh vegetables should make up 10% of your rabbit's diet and leafy greens should make up 75% of this. Be sure to check that the vegetables you want to serve your rabbit are safe, but some good choices include arugula, collard greens, carrot and beet tops, kale, butterhead and cos lettuce, basil, parsley, alfalfa sprouts, and spinach. For the other 25% of your bunny’s daily vegetable intake, consider things like cucumber, broccoli, green beans, pumpkin and carrot.

20. Understand how your rabbit communicates

Understanding what your rabbit’s body language is trying to tell you is a great way to get to know what your bunny is feeling. For example, did you know that a happy rabbit will often do what’s known as a binky where they jump off the ground mid-fun and do a mini twist? Super cute! Happy rabbits will also often do their own little version of the zoomies and tend to be curious, eat well, and groom regularly. In contrast, a worried or stressed bunny may sit in a crouched position with their muscles tense and their ears flattened. Becoming familiar with these signs can give you insight into your rabbit’s health and well-being.

21. Offer lots of enrichment

Just like any other animal, rabbits require lots of mental and physical enrichment in order to thrive. Enrichment comes in many different forms, so don’t be afraid to mix it up to offer your bunny lots of variety. This might include putting toys in their hutch or run for them to play with, providing them with physical touch in the form of petting or a cuddle, giving them opportunities to forage and dig, turning their food into a puzzle or game to give their brain a good workout, or grooming them.

22. Make sure their environment is the right temperature

While rabbits are hardy little creatures, they don’t do well with changes in temperature and prefer temperatures of between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, although they are comfortable in lower temperatures as long as they’re appropriately housed. They don’t, however, do well in the heat and so are not suited to very hot climates and if temperatures reach freezing, outdoor rabbits need to be moved indoors.

23. Spend time with your rabbit each day

As a minimum, try to spend at least an hour with your rabbit each day and up to five hours if at all possible. This doesn’t mean you have to be actively engaging with them for this whole time, but being in the same room and letting them interact with you when they choose to is vital for their mental health and well-being. Without company, rabbits can become lonely and sink into depression, so spending quality time with them can help prevent this. Alongside playing with them, simple activities like watching TV, working, or reading a book with them next to you all count as time spent with your bunny.

24. Have them vaccinated

There are lots of facts about rabbits that might surprise you. For example, just like cats and dogs, rabbits need to be vaccinated in order to stay healthy. All rabbits should be vaccinated regularly to protect them against potentially fatal diseases. Initial vaccinations will be given when your rabbit is between five and 10 weeks old, with a booster vaccination being administered on an annual basis.

25. Be aware of breed-specific health issues

There are many breeds of rabbits and some come with more potential health issues than others, so it pays to do your research before adopting one. Flat-faced rabbit breeds, such as the Netherland dwarf, lionhead or mini lop-eared rabbits can develop problems with overgrown or overcrowded teeth as well as eye issues. Rabbits with lop ears are also prone to ear infections and loss of hearing.

26. Regular vet check ups

Just like cats and dogs, rabbits require regular vet checks to catch any health issues before they turn into serious problems. An annual check up is adequate for rabbits that are fit and well, but elderly rabbits or those with a medical condition should be seen once every six months.

27. Keep their stress levels low

Rabbits like stability, predictability, and routine and need to feel comfortable to carry out all of their natural behaviors. Our floppy-eared friends can quickly become stressed and anxious if they don’t have these things so keeping things consistent and being patient and gentle with them are very important.

28. Teach children how to interact with them

While we often think that a rabbit would make a great pet for a child, this is not always the case. Rabbits are very sensitive creatures and many do not enjoy being picked up. If you have a young child, you’ll want to do your research to make sure that a bunny is the right fit for your family. If you decide that it is, it’s important that children are taught how to interact appropriately with their new friend — including speaking softly around them, handling them gently, and moving slowly when their rabbit is in the room. Child-bunny interactions should also always be supervised.

29. Let them sleep

Most rabbits sleep for around 8.5 hours per day, however, pet rabbits that feel safe, secure, and comfortable will often sleep for up to 12 hours a day. However, unlike us humans, rabbits won’t sleep for one big block of time, instead they’ll take lots of mini naps throughout the day. Some people wonder ‘are rabbits nocturnal?’ but the answer to this is no. Rabbits are neither nocturnal (active at night) nor diurnal (active during the day), instead, they’re classed as crepuscular which means they’re most active at dawn and dusk. Be sure to provide your rabbit with a quiet environment with cozy bedding so that they can get the rest they need when they need it.

30. Take extra care of them during fireworks season

If you have outdoor-dwelling rabbits, it’s worth noting that all the bangs, whizzes and other loud noises that fireworks create can cause them a great deal of anxiety. During times when you know fireworks are likely to occur (like the Fourth of July and New Year’s Eve) move your bunny indoors and provide them with extra bedding that they can burrow into to muffle the noise. You can also cover their hutch over with thick blankets to help keep some of the sound out.

31. Understand that rabbits are a long-term commitment

Did you know that rabbits live, on average, for up to 12 years? It’s true! In fact, some rabbits can live even longer than this, so ensuring you have the time and energy to devote to them is really important. Also, there’s a myth that rabbits are low-maintenance pets and this isn’t the case — they have a lot of needs that require meeting in order for them to live a long and happy life so do bear this in mind before you decide to adopt one.

32. Consider your other pets

Do you already have other animals in the house? If so, give some thought to whether or not they’ll get on with a bunny. For the most part, rabbits enjoy the company of other house pets, including cats, guinea pigs, and birds, however, you need to ensure that interactions are always supervised and that each pet is housed separately when you’re not around. While there are some exceptions, as a general rule, it’s best not to pair rabbits with dogs. Dogs have strong hunting instincts and will often chase smaller animals that they view as prey. Many have also been bred to go after rabbits specifically, so unless you have a very confident rabbit and a very well behaved and calm dog, it’s best to avoid having these two animals in the same house.

If you have a bunny, you might want to celebrate International Rabbit Day or learn how to keep a rabbit cool in the summer

Is there anything cuter than watching your best bunny pal chomp away at his food bowl and who knew there were so many things that rabbits can eat? It goes without saying that they’ll be relishing their meal if you’ve invested in some of the best food for rabbits for them to enjoy.

But did you know that rabbits get huge nutritional gains from fresh fruits, herbs and veggies, too? In fact, a bunny’s diet goes beyond the nuggets in their bowl and should also include a supply of fibrous roughage, such as grass or the best hay for rabbits, a handful of fresh foods like greens, and a constantly available clean, fresh water source.

Rabbits are grazers and their digestive system works by moving perpetually, so they need access to food 24/7. If you’re worried about how long rabbits can go without food, you don’t need to worry if you see your bun having a break from chomping every now and then, but extended periods where you don’t notice them eating could be cause for concern. With one of the best pet cameras, you can keep an eye on your rabbit’s feeding habits wherever you are.

So, why do rabbits need such variety? One big factor is tooth length, and a diet high in fiber will help your bunny wear them down with chewing. Fiber is also important in keeping their gut active.

Fresh foods are packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants to keep your bunny healthy. Plus, their high water content promotes hydration.

While rabbits don’t need a high volume of fresh food per day - a handful or so comprising mostly greens is fine - these foods play a vital role in overall health, enrichment and can even be great motivators in case you’re wondering how to house train a rabbit.

It’s recommended that rabbits are fed up to six different kinds of fresh food within their portion daily and feeding in moderation is the best rule of thumb to avoid upset tummies. So, if you’re looking for new things to vary up your bunny’s diet, here’s a list of safe foods to try today.

32 surprising things rabbits can eat

1. Mint

It goes nice in cool iced tea or lemonade, but also in your rabbit’s food bowl! Mint is a great option for fussy feeders and is rich in iron, potassium, and vitamin A. Bunnies can eat the mint leaves and the stalks, too.

2. Dandelions

These bright yellow flowers are extremely tasty to rabbits and your bunny can enjoy the bloom and its stalk. Dandelions are a diuretic and a gut-accelerating food, so shouldn’t be fed to rabbits with known kidney or digestive issues. As to their benefits, they contain vitamin C, iron, and calcium among other nutrients.

3. Apples

Crunchy and sweet, apples are a super treat for rabbits. However, there are two things to be mindful of.

The first is the high sugar content of an apple. This means that if your bunny is an easy keeper, or isn’t accustomed to eating fruit, they should only eat very small quantities - or just the skin for starters, which is full of antioxidants.

Secondly, be sure not to feed the pips because they contain toxins that could harm your rabbit.

4. Cucumber

Composed of more than 90% water, cucumber is a super hydrator, so a couple of slices in hot weather is great for keeping a bunny’s water levels up.

Cucumbers are not high in fiber, so they should not be fed in place of hay or grass, but small amounts are perfectly fine.

5. Parsely

This herb is rich in vitamins A and C as well as fiber, and has an alluring smell too. It should not be fed to pregnant does, though, because it can suppress lactation.

6. Sunflowers

This pretty flower looks fabulous in the garden, and your bunny might be watching on with jealousy! Sunflower petals are a tasty treat containing magnesium, selenium, and vitamin E.

Some owners feed their bunnies sunflower seeds, too. They are high in protein and can contribute to weight gain, though, so just a couple of seeds is enough for a bunny at a healthy weight.

It’s prudent to note that bunnies need play and an active lifestyle alongside a balanced diet. If you think your rabbit could stand to move more, you might try taking him for backyard walks with one of the best rabbit harnesses. Or, kit him out with some of the best rabbit toys.

7. Squash

Rabbits can eat all the kinds of squash that people can, and they like the skin and a couple of seeds here and there, too. You don’t need to cook the squash, as your bunny will happily chow down in it straight from the fridge.

Squash is a high-fiber food that makes it good for rabbits and it also contains zinc, sodium, and beta-carotene, which is linked to promoting eye health.

8. Fresh fennel

Rabbits can happily eat fennel bulbs and stalks. It has a naturally sweet, licorice-like taste that makes it so appealing. It is high in fiber as well as vitamin C-, potassium- and manganese-rich.

9. Kale

This fashionable green can be found in salads, smoothies, and juices but it’s also a super addition to your rabbit’s menu. Kale contains a vast and varied program of vitamins and minerals and is rich in fiber and calcium.

Its calcium content, though, is why kale should be fed to buns in moderation. Feeding too much calcium can lead to its accumulation in a rabbit’s system, which risks kidney stones.

10. Chamomile

Fresh chamomile flowers have anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties and anecdotal evidence suggests it helps promote healthy gut function in bunnies. Some owners even apply chamomile tea topically to wounds or irritation on their bunnies’ bodies.

11. Banana

With their high potassium content, feeding bananas is a great way to promote your rabbit’s healthy muscle function and bodily health. They can even eat the peel, which provides high levels of antioxidants, vitamin B6 and vitamin C.

This delicious fruit is high in sugar, though, and should only be fed in small quantities as an occasional treat.

12. Willow

The branches and leaves of a willow tree are wonderful for helping manage your bunny’s tooth length - they can gnaw away on it till the cows come home all while getting a healthy dose of all-important, gut-mobilizing fiber.

While feeding tough, stalky foods that take some chewing will help manage tooth length, regular checkups with your veterinarian are best practice for keeping your bunny’s chompers in check. Dental issues can be expensive to remedy, so it’s all the more reason to have a comprehensive insurance plan in place. Ensuring you have the best pet insurance will give you peace of mind.

13. Kiwi fruit

Like other fruits on this list, kiwi comes with a sugar content warning and it should be off-limits to rabbits with known gastrointestinal issues. That said, it’s great to feed from time to time as a reward and has high levels of vitamin C. Both the fleshy inside and the fuzzy skin of the kiwi are fine for bunnies to eat.

14. Cilantro

Sprinkling cilantro into your rabbit’s hay portion will help stimulate their brain as well as their appetite as they snuffle through to find it. It’s a great choice for rabbits for its anti-inflammatory properties as well as its high levels of antioxidants and vitamins A, C, and K.

15. Cauliflower leaves

Don’t throw out your cauliflower bottoms - your rabbit would love to feast on the leaves and stalky base. Another great option for dental health, cauliflower leaves are packed with fiber and vitamins A and K.

16. Melon

A refreshing fruit, melon is a great hydrator for humans and bunnies through the summer. Be mindful of how much you feed owing to sugar levels, though, and stick to feeding just the flesh part, omitting the rind and seeds.

17. Zucchini

High in water and minerals, zucchini is a worthy and hydrating supplement in your rabbit’s diet. Zucchini contains potassium and calcium for body and bone health.

18. Dill

This green herb has a feathery appearance and is used by humans to add tang to dishes, in particular fish. For your bunny, dill is nutrient-rich, with vitamins A, C and K present. It also contains magnesium, calcium, and iron.

19. Pears

We might like a poached pear for dessert, but rabbits like them just fine as they come, raw and freshly picked. While pears do come with the same sugar worries that accompany other fruits, they are high in fiber and provide a source of vitamins A and C.

20. Peaches

Provided they are pitted first, peaches are a tasty treat for bunnies in moderation - you don’t want to give your rabbit a sugar rush and an upset tummy. A source of fiber and vitamin C, peach is great to feed as an occasional treat.

21. Bell peppers

All colors of bell pepper are safe to feed rabbits. They’re hydrating and rich in vitamin C, and your bunny will love to crunch their way through a couple of slices at a time.

22. Plums

Another fruit to stone before feeding, plums are lovely and juicy. As well as a high volume of water, they contain vitamin C and antioxidants, too. Keep the amount you feed small and irregular to go easy on your rabbit’s gut and digestive system.

23. Arugula

This leafy green with a peppery flavor offers rabbits a hydration boost as well as vitamins A, C, and K. It’s also rich in calcium, which is great in moderation but can be problematic if over-consumed.

24. Jerusalem artichoke

This winter tuber is high in water and low in calcium, so is great for regular feeding. It are also high in fiber, which is key for healthy bunny digestion.

25. Brussel sprouts

Sprouts - you love ‘em or hate ‘em, right? Overindulgence in Brussels sprouts can have a similar effect on rabbits as on humans - namely the stomach ache and additional trips to the restroom.

That aside, sprouts are a brilliant gnawing food and are high in fiber as well as vitamins A, C and K. They contain oxalic acid, which can affect calcium absorption.

26. Strawberries

A ripe strawberry is an enticing treat for anyone, and your rabbit will agree! High in water, vitamin C, and manganese and low in calcium, these fruits are a pretty solid option to treat your bunny to every once in a while.

27. Collard greens

These leafy greens come in a few varieties, from purple-stemmed to baby-leaf, and make a super addition to your bunny’s menu for their high levels of vitamins A and K. They also contain calcium and manganese, but perhaps most notably they are packed with the fiber that’s so important to a rabbit’s digestive health.

28. Cabbage

Packed with water, fiber and vitamins A, C and K, cabbage is a great supplementary vegetable for rabbits. All varieties of cabbage are safe to feed bunnies – green, red, savoy, and napa – and it will all come down to the flavor your bunny prefers.

29. Bok Choy

This Asian green is composed of 95% water and contains antioxidants alongside vitamins A, K, magnesium, and potassium. It offers your bun a variety of textures, from the crunch of the stem to the soft leafy top, offering experiential as well as dietary enrichment.

30. Papaya

Bunnies cannot vomit, so everything they eat has to be dealt with by the digestive tract. A condition sometimes referred to as wool block occurs when hair is ingested while a rabbit grooms themselves causes a blockage called a gastric trichobezoar, or hairball. This can mean food cannot pass through the digestive system. Bunnies with wool block may become lethargic, stop eating, pass fewer than normal, or have no droppings at all and you may even notice hair in their dung. Suspected cases of wool block should be reported to your veterinarian.

This is where fresh papaya, when fed in small amounts on a regular basis, could act as a digestive aid. Not only is papaya a delicious sweet treat, but it also reportedly has the benefit of helping break down hair that might have collected in your bunny’s system. This is due to the powerful enzymes that are part of papaya’s composition.

It’s sugary, so shouldn’t be fed excessively, but is a tasty treat with an unusual additional benefit. While papaya shouldn’t be used to treat suspected wool block, it may help support your rabbit’s healthy digestive function.

31. Pineapple

Sugary and juicy, this treat (best fed sparingly) has similar properties to papaya in that its enzymes can reportedly break down hair in the digestive tract. Fresh pineapple without its skin is better than canned or dried options as gram for gram it has higher nutritional value and less sugar.

32. Their own droppings

Not exactly a treat but if you do spot your rabbit nibbling on their own poop, rest assured it’s perfectly natural! This is because although bunnies require a high-fiber diet, it isn’t easy to digest and often their droppings still contain many of the valuable nutrients they need. As such, ingesting their poop means rabbits unlock all the nutritional benefits the second time around!

The jury is out on exactly how many rabbit breeds there are in the world but we've rounded up 32 breeds of rabbits here for you. There are of course wild rabbits in existence alongside the many domesticated breeds. Rabbits have been bred specifically for centuries for various reasons – chiefly for meat, fur, beauty (show rabbits), and as beloved pets.

Some breeds have several types or varieties, which may account for some of the discrepancies in the exact number. The American Rabbit Breed Association and British Rabbit Council have more than 50 breeds on its books, and more than 500 varieties.

Like other species, rabbits come in myriad shapes, sizes, and coat types. And while they can come in all different varieties one thing that is true of all breeds is that they all need some of the best food for rabbits, to thrive in life. The tiny dwarf breeds may weigh only a couple of pounds, while one of the giant breeds has topped the scales at a record 49lb!

Some breeds are more skittish, others are known to be laid-back, while others are friendly and companionable.

Whatever, your rabbity wishes, there’s a breed out there for everyone who loves a bunny!

32 breeds of rabbits

1. Lionhead

A small rabbit with a magnificent mane to match their name, this is a sweet, appealing bunny. They are playful, and friendly and enjoy a cuddle. The breed is thought to have developed in Belgium from a cross between a Swiss fox and Belgian dwarf, with possibly some angora mixed in.

A recognized breed in the States since 2014 that has soared in popularity since. In 2018, a lionhead won best in show for the first time at the American Rabbit Breeders Association’s convention.

Max weight 3.75lb.

2. Rex

The rex is known as the king of rabbits, with its prize asset its short, dense, velvety fur. It comes in 16 color varieties, with castor (a rich brown) the first and amber the newest. First shown in 1924 at the Paris International Rabbit Show, the same year a Rex was imported into the USA.

Max weight 10.5lb.

3. Holland lop

This adorable, diminutive lop-eared bunny was developed in, you guessed it, the Netherlands. The aim was to produce a more compact version of the large French lop. The resulting Holland lop is small, with a relatively large head and sweet lopped ears. It is also called the dwarf lop in Europe.

It is one of the five most popular rabbits in the US, having been recognized as an official breed in 1979.

Max weight 4lb.

4. Netherland dwarf

This tiny rabbit, with its brachycephalic head and cute upright ears has enduring appeal. They come in a kaleidoscope of 25 different colors which have increased in tandem with their popularity.

Max weight 2.5lb.

5. Mini lop

This chunky, broad and well-muscled rabbit has been growing in popularity since it became an official breed in 1980. They have a large, closely set head, characteristic lop ears, and thick, glossy fur. It was originally called the Klein Widderand when it first arrived in the States in the 1970s.

Max weight 6.5lb.

6. Californian

Developed, as the name suggests, in the state of California, this rabbit is one of the most popular in the whole of the US. They were first shown in 1928, and an official standard was drawn up in 1939. They are typically white, with black markings, such as on their ears, nose, and legs.

They are a commercial breed, and have often been raised for fur and meat, but are increasingly popular as pets, with a mild temperament that is well suited to life as a house rabbit. We recommend having one of the best rabbit runs to give this bunny a chance to stretch their legs.

Max weight 10.5lb.

7. French lop

This enormous, heavy-boned rabbit has no maximum weight. They are thought to have originated from the English lop and the giant papillon, both large breeds themselves. They are majestic in looks, yet placid and docile in temperament, with a soft, dense coat.

You will certainly need to pick up a guide on rabbit grooming with this breed to keep their coat looking its best.

8. Dwarf papillon

The dwarf papillon is a relatively new breed in the US, having only been imported in 2015. They have had several names in Europe, having first been developed in Germany, where they were called Zwergschecken, and today’s dwarf papillon is related to this together with French and Swiss versions.

This adorable breed has erect, V-shaped ears and distinctive markings on its ears, eyes and cheeks, as well as on its body. The butterfly markings on its face give rise to the name papillon, which means butterfly in French.

Max weight 4.5lb.

9. Dutch

Arguably the more recognizable rabbit breed of all – and enduringly popular – the Dutch originates in 19th century England. The distinctive pattern of markings feature a mix of white and colored fur in separate blocks with clean lines between the two. They also have a blaze down the face in a wedge shape.

This is a calm, gentle breed, which makes an ideal pet, as well as having striking, traditional looks.

Max weight 5.5lb.

10. Flemish giant

Of Belgian origin, this large rabbit is nicknamed the “gentle giant” on account of its docile temperament. This is the biggest official rabbit breed, and also one of the oldest, with a breed standard dating back to 1893.

They have been used for meat and fur, as well as pets, breeding and show animals. They feature in the ancestry of many newer breeds.

No maximum weight, and have been recorded as weight up to 49lb, though 15lb is average.

11. Angora

The ARBA recognizes four official breeds of angora: French, English, satin, and giant – and even more unrecognized ones. They all possess a silky, luxurious wool, which is a hallmark of the breed. It does not typically cause allergies in the way other animals’ fur does. These rabbits can be shorn like sheep for their wool, but they also make sweet pets, so long as you’re up to the grooming demands of these fluffballs.

They are believed to have originated in Turkey and come to Europe via French royalty.

Max weight 7.5lb for the smallest (English) up to no max for the giant.

12. Harlequin

There are two types of Harlequin, the Japanese (orange or fawn with black, blue, chocolate or lilac) and the magpie (white with black, blue, chocolate or lilac). Their distinguishing feature is their two-tone appearance, with the ideal markings consisting of an obvious split between the colors on the head, ears, feet and body.

This is a well-established breed that was developed in Europe, chiefly France, where it was first exhibited in 1887.

Max weight 9.5lb

13. Standard chinchilla

The 1920s saw a boom in chinchilla rabbits, as their coats were deemed extremely valuable. They are named for the color and silky soft texture of their fur, and have no relation to the rodent chinchilla. The rabbit version was recognized as a breed in the US in 1923.

There are three chinchilla breeds: standard, American, and giant, of which the standard is the smallest. Chinchillas feature in many domestic rabbit breeds’ ancestry.

Max weight 7.5lb.

14. Blanc de Hotot

These delightful snow-white bunnies with a ring of black eyeliner, like fine spectacles, originated in Hotot-en-Auge in northern France. Their white guard hairs give them a frosty appearance. The ARBA recognized them as a breed in 1979 and they have a loyal following, although they are considered globally endangered.

There is also a dwarf variety, weighing only 3lb max.

Max weight 11lb.

15. Satin

The satin came about via a mutation in a Havana litter, which gave these particular rabbits a brilliant sheen due to a unique fur structure, whereby the cuticle of the hair shaft is transparent. They also come in a mini version, which was originally called a satinette. Together, they’re affectionately known as “Team Sheen”.

There are 14 varieties of satin, from otter to lilac and Himalayan, while there are 18 varieties of mini satin, including lynx and squirrel.

Max weight 11lb or 4.75lb for mini.

16. Britannia petite

Known as the “Polish” in Britain, this is a tiny wee rabbit, with bundles of energy. They are showy, but they require a lot of patience due to their activity levels and highly-strung natures. A “pint-sized dragon” as one expert puts it. You may want to check out different games for rabbits to keep them busy.

Although they look cute, with their large, expressive eyes and elegant physique, they are not a natural pet, but best with an experienced handler.

Max weight 2.5lb.

17. Jersey wooly

One of the most popular show breeds of rabbit both in the US and overseas. This dwarf rabbit is known for its friendly, docile temperament and wooly coat. They have small erect ears and a “mug head”, being fairly square.

This breed was developed by crossing the Netherland dwarf with the French angora, given its small size and wooly fur. It became an ARBA official breed in 1988.

Max weight 3.5lb.

18. Havana

A long-established breed, having first been recognized by ARBA in 1916 after being originally developed in the Netherlands. Their fur is their prize asset, having the texture of mink, and this compact, rounded bunny is a huge success on the show table.

There are five accepted colors: chocolate, black, blue, broken, and lilac.

Max weight 6.5lb.

19. Himalayan

The Himalayan has many names: “Russian rabbit”, “black nose rabbit from China” and the less appealingly titled “Egyptian smut”. They are marked similarly to the Californian, with a white body and dark nose, ears, and feet, and are a likely ancestor.

They are believed to be one of the first rabbit breeds and have long been popular show bunnies, dating back to the mid-19th century in Europe. They are laid-back and easy to handle, and enjoy a playing around with some of the best rabbit toys.

Their body shape is unique, being cylindrical – the only such breed recognized by the ARBA. Unlike many other breeds, they were not raised primarily for meat, with their long, skinny bodies being unsuitable.

Max weight 4.5lb.

20. American 

Despite its common name, the American rabbit is on the watch list as a rare breed. (It was called German Blue Vienna until World War I). It has been critically endangered, but its fortunes are reviving and it is now in the threatened category.

Shaped like a mandolin, with its semi-arched back and long loin, the medium-sized American rabbit comes in only two colors: blue or white. The blue was officially recognized first in 1917, with the white only being accepted in 1925. They have a sweet, calm temperament.

Max weight 12lb.

21. Belgian hare

Not a real hare! This is one of the oldest breeds of rabbit in the US, dating back to the 1880s. They are heralded as the breed responsible for the domestic rabbit movement in the States. They were extremely popular at the turn of the 20th century, with individual rabbits selling for up to $5,000 – the equivalent of a six-figure sum today. However, they are now on livestock conservancy watch lists as one of the rare breeds.

The Belgian hare is racy, lithe, and athletic, with an alert pose – bred to look like a hare in the wild. Their coat traditionally has the ticking you would expect in a wild hare.

Max weight 9.5lb

22. Checkered giant 

This boldly marked rabbit is one of the largest breeds – with no maximum weight – and is also athletic and enjoys running! This breed was established over a century ago in 1919, in the US, having been developed in Germany from the Great German spot and Flemish giant. They are celebrated in the US as “Rabbit Beautiful”.

They come in either black (white with black markings) or blue (white with gray markings). The markings are very specific, including exact patterns of spots on the sides, eye circles, and cheeks, as well as solid-colored ears and a dorsal line.

23. English spot

In Britain, this breed is simply called the English rabbit. This is a lithe, active, long-legged bunny that loves to run. They have distinctive markings, with a butterfly nose, eye circles, cheek spots, herringbone, and colored ears. They have a chain of spots that goes along both sides of the body from the neck to the hindlegs.

As the name implies, they were first established in England in the late 19th century, where they were favoured by the future King Edward VIII. They came across the Atlantic around 1910.

Max weight 8lb.

24. Tan

The tan rabbit descends from a wild colony of rabbits in England. The modern tan is thought to be much more athletic and sleeker than its sturdier forebears, but it still has a look of the wild about it. They are very playful and intelligent with fun personalities.

They come in four intense colors: black, blue, chocolate, and lilac, and are a full-arched breed – meaning they have a lot of daylight under their bellies, being lean, long-legged and well balanced.

Max weight 5.5lb.

25. Thrianta

This is a brilliant orange-red rabbit – nicknamed the “Fire of the Fancy”. Its stunning coat is soft, dense, and medium in length and will need regular grooming with one of the best rabbit brushes. But they aren’t fiery in nature, being sweet and affectionate.

The breed was developed in the Netherlands, where orange is a patriotic color, and it is said that the creator of the breed, Mr Andreae, bred these flame-colored rabbits in defiance of the Nazi regime occupying his homeland and in honor of the Dutch House of Orange.

Max weight 6lb.

26. Argente

There are six types of Argente rabbits, of which three are recognized by the ARBA. These are the champagne, creme (pictured) and brun. The brun is the newest of the breeds, and has a dense, glossy coat with a deep chocolate undercolor.

All of the Argente breeds have a stunning-colored coat with a different under color, which gives them a frosty, silvery appearance.

Max weight around 11lb

27 Silver marten

The silver marten came about due to a breeder crossing black and tan rabbits to chinchillas, and it has since itself been used to introduce color into other breeds such as the Netherland dwarf.

They have delicate markings, with silver ticking and rimmed eyes adorning their beautifully glossy coats.

Max weight 9.5lb.

28. English lop

If you love long ears, the English lop is the rabbit for you. This original lop is known to have the longest ears of any rabbit breed. The Victorians cherished them as pets, and they have been used to develop other lop-eared breeds, such as the French lop.

They are docile and laid-back, so much so that they have been nicknamed the “dog of the rabbit world”.

A large breed with no maximum weight.

29. Cinnamon

A delightful russet-colored bunny with grey ticking and undercoloring. They are said to have been created “by accident”, by a breeder’s kids. Besides their interesting color, the coat has a beautiful sheen. They tend to have calm and affectionate personalities.

Max weight 11lb.

30. New Zealand

You’d be forgiven for assuming that the New Zealand was developed Down Under, but in fact, it has its roots in the US, in California.

This medium to large rabbit was mainly bred for meat production and animal testing and was developed for its quick growth rate and overall healthiness.

However, they are known to be friendly and social and make great pets, thriving with plenty of attention. They are also intelligent and can be taught tricks.

Max weight 12lb.

31. Palomino

These pale golden bunnies are named palomino like the horse. They have had other names, including “American Beige” and the “Washingtonian”, due to where they were originally bred. They come in two varieties – golden and lynx – and they make an eye-catching pet.

Max weight 11lb.

32. Silver

The silver is one of the oldest recorded domestic breeds, dating back to the 16th century and the days of Sir Walter Raleigh, who is said to have introduced them to England. They come in three varieties – black, brown, and fawn – with the silver pertaining to the luster which comes from their white guard hairs.

Max weight 7lb.

Enjoyed this feature? Check out the best types of bunnies for pets.

We’ve searched high and low to track down the funniest rabbit jokes around. So if you’re looking for gags that will make you ‘hoppy’, stick right here.

If you’re lucky enough to have a pet rabbit, you’ll already know how funny these flop-eared herbivores can be. Most bunnies are packed full of personality but, of course, we know their entire existence isn’t to make us laugh.

However, when you spot your rabbit binkying, hopping from one side of their hutch to the other or stomping their feet, you can’t help but be filled with joy (and laughter). To keep the chuckles coming, we’ve compiled a list of the best rabbit jokes – and for the more serious of you, some interesting rabbit facts. So let’s hop to it…

Funny rabbit jokes 

20 of the best rabbit jokes for adults

Whether you're getting your head around how to adopt a bunny, you already have a pet rabbit or you just have lots of love for these furry friends (and don't we all?) — discover our round-up of the funniest rabbit jokes for adults below.

1. Where did the rabbit go for a trim? The hare dressers.
2. How did the rabbit keep fit? By going to hare-obics classes.
3. Where do rabbits go when they aren't feeling well? The hops-spital.
4. What did the rabbit say to the piece of wood? It was nice gnawing you.
5. What do you call a rabbit in a kilt? A Hopscotch rabbit.
6. What did the rabbit use to propose to his girlfriend? A 24-carrot ring.
7. Why didn't the rabbit eat lunch? It didn't carrot at all.
8. What do you call a line of rabbits hopping backwards? A receding hare line.
9. What’s a rabbit’s favourite type of music? Hip-Hop.
10. What do you call a rabbit that’s raised inside? An in-grown hare.
11. Why was the rabbit sad? It was having a bad hare day.
12. Where do rabbits go after their wedding? On their bunnymoon, of course.
13. What do you call a rabbit in a good mood? A hoppy bunny.
14. What did the rabbit say to his wife? No bunny compares to you.
15. Which pair of rabbits were famous bank robbers? Bunny and Clyde.
16. Did you hear about the rich rabbit? He was a millionhare.
17. Why do rabbits get so tired in April? Because they just finished a March.
18. What kind of books and novels do rabbits like to read? Ones with hoppy endings.
19. How can you tell that a rabbit is getting old? Look for the grey hares.
20. What did the magician say after the rabbit vanished? Hare today, gone tomorrow.

15 of the best rabbit jokes for kids

Who said rabbit jokes were just for adults? Teach these rabbit jokes to your kids and they’ll love telling them to friends and family.

1. What is a bunny’s favorite motto? Don’t be mad, be hoppy.
2. How do you know carrots are good for your eyes? Because you never see rabbits wearing glasses.
3. How do rabbits travel? By hareplane
4. Why did the bunny cross the road? He wanted to prove he could hip hop.
5. Where do rabbits learn how to fly? In the hare force.
6. What do you get if you mix a beetle and a rabbit? Bugs Bunny.
7. How does the Easter Bunny stay fit? He does a load of eggs-ercise.
8. What do you call a Transformer bunny? Hop-timus Prime.
9. Why do bunnies love action movies? Because they are hare-raising.
10. Why don’t bunnies use combs? They use hare-brushes instead.
11. What do you call a very rich bunny? A billion-hare.
12. Where do you take a rabbit when their hair is too long? A hare stylist.
13. What do you say to a rabbit on its birthday? Hoppy birthday.
14. What sort of jewelry do rabbits like? Anything that's 24 carrot gold.
15. What’s a young bunny’s favorite game to play in school? Hop-scotch.

If you’re looking for even more animal jokes to add to your collection, cast your eye over the funny cat jokes that are hiss-terical. Or the funny dog jokes that will make you howl with laughter.

Interesting rabbit facts aren’t hard to come by because bunnies are one of the most fascinating animals.

For starters, did you know these balls of fur have an almost 360-degree field of vision thanks to the positioning of their eyes? Or that some rabbits can soar up to four feet? Plus, these cute creatures are crepuscular, meaning they tend to be more active at dawn and dusk due to the potential threat of predators hunting during the day and night.

Yes, these loveable animals really are captivating and it’s all down to the complex inner workings that allow them to thrive and survive in the wild, and live a long and happy life as a pet. So, to find out some of the most interesting rabbit facts, stick right here.

Interesting rabbit facts you need to know

1. Rabbits' teeth constantly grow

With their love for fibrous foods, such as the best hay for rabbits, bunnies tend to do a lot of chewing.

Thankfully, rabbits have 28 teeth (which is four less than humans), with two main incisors, two peg teeth and 22 premolars and molars. Their incisors are sharp to help bite through vegetation, while the teeth in the back of their mouth – the premolars and molars – work hard to crunch down on grass and other plants.

Of course, feeding your bunny a nutritional diet is an important part of rabbit care. But all that chewing also wears down their teeth, which is a good thing because rabbits have ‘open-rooted’ teeth. This means they never stop growing.

2. Rabbits communicate in their own language 

Ever wondered what your little ball of fluff is trying to tell you every time they stomp their feet, give you a head bump or stand up on their hind legs and stare off into the distance? Join the club!

As it turns out, a rabbit’s body language can tell you a lot of things and all these subtle movements are how they communicate with you and with one another. For example, a purring sound indicates they are feeling comfortable and content. While flopping down on their side can signify they are feeling safe.

3. A rabbit’s ears are brilliant multitaskers 

A bunny’s ears aren’t just there to look cute. Not only do rabbits have an impeccable sense of hearing (they can hear sounds up to two miles away), but they can also rotate their ears up to 270-degrees to help detect the direction a sound is coming from.

According to the International Fund for Animal Welfare, wild rabbits have a very wide hearing range that spans from 360 Hz to around 42,000 Hz, so they can hear higher frequencies than humans.

4. Rabbits have an almost 360-degree surveillance

It’s not just their ears that are pretty magnificent. Due to a rabbit’s eyes being positioned on the side of their head, they have a wide field of view that reaches nearly 360 degrees.

They also tend to be farsighted meaning they can clearly spot planes overheard while objects like food nearby might look blurry.

That’s because a rabbit’s sight is designed to detect potential predators approaching in any direction.

Rabbits do, however, have a limited color vision. They have something called dichromatic vision. This means they have two types of color receptors (blue and green) compared to their pet parents who have three (red, green, and blue).

5. Rabbits can ‘binky‘

Wondering why rabbits binky? Or maybe you’ve not heard of the term before? Well, bunny binkies (as they’re more affectionately known), is a behavior rabbits perform to express their happiness.

Binkying is the act of leaping into the air, whilst flicking their back legs and head. Rabbits might perform this move from a standstill or while running. Some bunnies prefer to do a full 180-degree turn mid-binky.

A handful of our flop-eared friends might also do this when they feel relaxed and safe or want to blow off some steam. Or when they receive their favorite treat or one of the best rabbit toys. But it's also thought some rabbits do this as ‘practise’ if they ever need to escape from a predator.

6. Rabbits can jump very high 

Speaking of jumping, rabbits are amazing athletes as the highest bunny jump currently stands at 3ft, according to The Guinness World Records.

But legend has it that some rabbits have been seen to be leaping over 4ft high. Not bad considering the average height of an adult rabbit is 6in.

7. Rabbits have a prolific breeding ability 

Generally speaking, rabbits are social butterflies and it's for good reason. In the wild, rabbits live in communities rather than living alone. According to vets, if they spend too much time by themselves, they can be at risk of behavioral issues such as depression or anxiety.

So if you have one pet rabbit already, it might be wise to consider adopting another one. However, if you have unneutered bunnies of the opposite sex, they will, quite literally, breed like rabbits.

Pregnancies in mother rabbits can last around a month and the average litter size is five to eight baby rabbits, known as kittens or kits. Rabbits can then become pregnant within hours of giving birth. Meaning? A doe can birth up to 30 kits in one breeding season.

8. They’re natural recyclers

Would you believe that rabbits eat their poop? Along with feasting on a healthy diet of leafy greens and hay, rabbits eat a specific type of their own droppings, called caecotrophs.

Unlike normal rabbit droppings, caecotrophs are shinier and much smellier but they are packed full of protein and vitamin B. Therefore, they eat these types of excrement to maximize all the nutrients available to them.

9. Rabbits need a constant supply of water

Rabbits are thirsty creatures and if you’re wondering what do rabbits need in their cage, know that access to clean water is a must.

Along with helping with digestion, and promoting good kidney and heart health, water will help to keep a rabbit cool in the summer.

Typically speaking, rabbits should be drinking 50–150ml of water per kg of bodyweight. This means a 2kg rabbit could guzzle up to 300ml in one 24-hour period.

10. Rabbits are super fast 

If you’ve got one of the best rabbit runs, you’ve probably spotted your pet pal running around it at speed.

That’s because the average domestic rabbit can run up to 40 km/h. And when it comes to jumping, they're pretty quick too. The fastest time to complete 10 jumps by a rabbit goes to white-haired bunny Penelope, who jumped over 10 obstacles in just 7.16 seconds.

Keen to find out some more pet facts? Discover our favorite interesting cat facts and interesting dog facts that might surprise you. Or if you’re after some light relief, here are our favorite funny rabbit jokes.

Knowing what plants are poisonous to rabbits is key to keeping them safe and healthy. Rabbits are herbivores, meaning they only eat plants so it can be easy to think that anything green is safe for bunnies, but this is not the case.

When it comes to what to feed a rabbit, the main thing to ensure is that they have access to plenty or the best hay for rabbits or grass. While you can certainly add some of the best rabbit food to their diet, grass and hay should be their main source of nutrition.

Now that we know what to feed a rabbit, let's get into the types of plants that your rabbit should never eat. Vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan weighs in on which types of plants to steer clear of.

What type of plants are poisonous to rabbits?

For an animal whose diet mainly consists of grass, there are a lot of outdoor plants that they should not eat. Dr. Rebecca MacMillan advises that rabbits should avoid most outdoor plants as they can be poisonous to not just rabbits other pets as well. So what plants are poisonous to rabbits? Dr. MacMillan lays it out for us.

She says to avoid flowering plants, such as daffodils, tulips, irises, and crocuses, and to take particular care that your rabbit does not eat their bulbs. She says, "Any part of the plant is toxic and can cause extreme irritation to the digestive tract. Toxins are most concentrated in the bulb, so these should be kept out of areas where your rabbit is likely to dig or graze."

We know that the key to rabbit care is knowing how to bunny-proof a room. But this doesn't include just your house, but the backyard as well. So in addition to flowering plants, there are a few others that should be out of your rabbit's reach.

Other plants to avoid

• Privet hedges
• Rhododendron
• Holly
• Ivy
• Buttercups
• Poppies

Dr. MacMillan goes on to say, "Some garden plants can even be fatal including yew trees, foxgloves, and deadly nightshade so these should be removed from your garden to avoid an accident from happening."

Rabbit owners should also consider indoor plants when rabbit-proofing their homes. Dr. MacMillan notes that the list of poisonous indoor plants is very long but the main ones include, aloe vera, peace lilies, and Swiss cheese plants. As there are few houseplants that are actually safe for rabbits, it's best to make sure they are all out of their reach.

What should we feed a rabbit?

While grass should be their main diet, you can also add in some leafy green vegetables and herbs. Parsley, dill, cilantro, and basil can safely be given to your bunny. It is also safe to include rabbit pellets into their daily diet but not too many.

Dr. MacMillan also notes that some weeds are safe for your bunny to consume. "Nettles and dandelion leaves are perfect for rabbits to enjoy, and they can be quite partial to them. Rabbits don’t seem to suffer from stings or irritation when enjoying nettles. Just make sure that anything you offer your pet hasn’t been treated with weedkiller."

If you found this feature helpful check out 32 facts about rabbits that might surprise you.

If you can get hold of the best hay for rabbits, then trust us when we say your bunny will really thank you for it. Hay is an absolute essential for these small pets because it forms the foundation of a healthy diet. Without it, your rabbit’s gut and digestive system can really suffer and you may find that your bunny develops dental problems, too.

“Hay or grass should make up the vast bulk of a rabbit’s diet – around 85% of what they consume each day,” says expert vet Rebecca MacMillan, who goes on to explain what to feed a rabbit. “A typical diet plan for a rabbit should consist of unlimited hay or grass which should always be available, throughout the day and night.” In that sense, hay or grass is far more important than even the best food for rabbits and the higher the quality you buy, the better it will be for your pet and the more likely they are to eat it.

So what should you look out for? Hay needs to be dry and clean so that you can be sure you’re giving your rabbit an abundance of fiber and protein while getting those teeth working. “Dusty, cheap, or old hay will be lacking in nutrients and could contain mold spores if not properly stored,” Dr MacMillan adds. She also recommends timothy or meadow hay saying it’s fresh and pleasant smelling. Let’s check out the best hay for rabbits.

Best hay for rabbits 2026

How we chose the best hay for rabbits

Buying hay is a little more complicated than it first appears and there are some things that need to be kept in mind. First and foremost, the hay needs to be fresh – if it is dry, smells sweet and doesn’t appear to show signs of dust and mold, that would certainly pass the test. The hay also needs to be of good stock so we paid attention to how it is harvested. We were wary of hay that has been sprayed with pesticides and any that had artificial preservatives added.

What do vets recommend as the best hay for rabbits?

“Feeding rabbits is actually very straightforward,” Dr MacMillan says. “They need a diet that is made up of predominantly grass and this can be in its dried form of hay or eaten fresh from the ground in your garden.” The key thing is to look out for hay that is high in fiber. “Rabbits have adapted to consume a high-fiber diet, which helps to keep their teeth worn down and their digestive system in good working order.”

There are a few types of hay that you can feed rabbits:

Timothy hay: In general, lower-calorie, coarser timothy hay is seen as the go-to product for rabbits because it’s great for digestion and teeth.

Meadow hay: This is usually cheaper, packed with fiber and low in sugar and it makes a great alternative.

Alfalfa hay: This can play a role in supporting development and growth thanks to its higher calcium and protein content but it’s not recommended for long-term use.

Oat hay: This is high in fiber but it’s also high in calories and can cause obesity.

Teff grass hay: This lacks sufficient protein and calcium.

What type of hay should be avoided?

You don’t need to entirely avoid any particular type of hay. Yes, there are issues with teff grass, oat hay and alfalfa hay, for instance, but you’d just need to moderate them – that’s not really the case with timothy hay and meadow hay, though.

It’s also absolutely fine to find grass from your garden as Dr MacMillan has suggested but you’ll need to get out on the lawn with some scissors to gather it up. “Never give your bunny any mown grass or grass clippings,” she warns. ”Lawnmowers damage the grass and warm it up, meaning bacteria can multiply on it potentially making your pet sick.”

If you’re venturing into the garden, it’s also worth pointing out that you should be wary of plants that are poisonous to rabbits.

“Bulbs (including daffodils, tulips, and bluebells) are toxic to rabbits, as are holly, ivy, yew, foxgloves, and primroses. Keep your rabbit away from these plants or remove them from your garden. Make sure that all houseplants are well out of reach from inquisitive rabbits, too.”

Do I need to limit the amount of hay I feed my rabbit?

If it’s timothy hay or meadow hay, no. Give them as much as you can.

“The exact amounts that a rabbit eats daily will vary depending on size and age,” says Dr MacMillan. “Hay and grass should be unlimited, so you won’t need to measure this out. Just replace it with fresh hay regularly.”

And don’t worry. A rabbit won’t gobble down hay like it’s going out of fashion. “Rabbits are grazers meaning they will eat for many hours of the day and at any time, but they tend to be most active in the mornings and evenings,” Dr MacMillan says.

If your bunny isn't eating or you plan to leave the house for a while, then you might be wondering, 'How long can rabbits go without food?'

Unlike other pets, rabbits like to graze all day long and have a diet consisting of hay or grass, leafy greens or vegetables, and some pellets.

If you're worried that you're feeding your bunny the wrong thing, our guide on what to feed a rabbit can help you. Feeding your bunny a nutritious diet is one of the most important parts of rabbit care so it's important to get it right.

With the help of expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, we've explained how long rabbits can go without food, what to do if they stop eating, and what might be causing this.

How long can rabbits go without food?

Rabbits need unlimited access to grass and hay, so they shouldn't ever be left without food. However, if it's an emergency and there's no other choice, then they can go up to 12 hours without eating.

Dr. MacMillan explains that rabbits are designed to eat almost continuously, and if they're not eating enough, it could lead to serious health issues like gut stasis.

She says: "If a rabbit hasn’t eaten for more than 12 hours, there is a real risk of succumbing to the effects of gut stasis. Gut stasis occurs when the normal movements in a rabbit’s digestive system slow or completely stop.

"Bacteria builds up in the guts causing excessive amounts of gas, which is painful and can lead to bloating. As things progress, toxins released by these bacteria can make your rabbit even more unwell. A rabbit that isn’t eating or drinking could die within a few days."

What to do if your rabbit stops eating

If your rabbit has stopped eating or their appetite has decreased, you should take them to the vet immediately as this is a sign of gut stasis. According to Dr. MacMillan and the Journal of Ferrets, Rabbits and Rodents, these are the other signs to look out for:

• Fewer or smaller stools than normal (they look dark, dry and small)
• Lethargy
• Decreased water consumption
• Decreased activity
• Decreased social activity
• Teeth grinding
• Lack of movement
• Digging or scratching
• Hunched posture (pictured below)

Since rabbits are prey animals, they're very good at hiding the early signs of ill health, explains Dr. MacMillan. That's why it's very important to get them checked over if you notice anything wrong with them — especially since gut stasis can be life-threatening if it's not treated.

She says: "Rabbits in gut stasis may require fluid therapy, medications to help improve their gut movements, pain relief, and nutritional support."

This is one of the most common disorders in rabbits, so it's a good idea to know the signs and symptoms to look out for. As well as an inadequate diet, stress can also be a cause. You can keep your bunny happy by:

• Feeding them a nutritious and appropriate diet – here’s our pick of the best rabbit foods
• Giving them a spacious, safe and clean home – check out the best indoor rabbit hutches
• Grooming them regularly – using one of the best rabbit brushes
• Ensuring they get daily exercise – if you don’t have a suitable rabbit run you could try one of the best rabbit harnesses
• Providing mental and physical stimulation – the best rabbit toys can help
• Socializing them

Learning about rabbit body language can help you work out how your bunny is feeling and prevent any unwanted distress. Here are some tips on how to tell if your rabbit is happy, too.

Found this helpful? You might also want to read: Do rabbits eat their poop? and are rabbits herbivores?

Although it’s important to buy the best food for rabbits, you don’t actually need to feed your bunny with loads of pellets. In fact, a rabbit’s diet is predominantly made up of grass (or the best hay for rabbits) so what you are going to be purchasing is supplementary food. The best rabbit food will give your bunnies a boost by providing nutrients and additional fiber.

In that sense, then, you may want to spend a little more in order to ensure that the rabbit food you buy is of the utmost quality. That way, what you’re giving to your bunny in the best indoor rabbit hutches or the best outdoor rabbit hutches is more likely to be of benefit to your bunny’s health, leading to better digestion, glossier coats, improved skin and a good start in life.

But what should you look for if you’re wondering what to feed a rabbit? “You should pick a good quality pellet diet, where all pieces are a uniform shape and size,” explains expert vet Rebecca MacMillan. “Rabbits have also adapted to consume a high-fiber diet, which helps to keep their teeth worn down and their digestive system in good working order.”

If your rabbit is used to a sugary diet, it may take a little while for them to come round to the idea of the new pellets, but if you persevere your bunny will reap the benefits in the long term. Let’s take a look at what is on offer.

The best rabbit food 2026

How we chose the best rabbit food

We focussed our attention on the ingredients, assessing them for their health benefits. We looked to see how much fiber the food contained and considered the addition of vitamins and minerals. We were particularly keen to check that manufacturers were using quality ingredients and the processes used to gather them.

What do vets recommend as the best food for rabbits?

You may have been fooled into thinking that rabbits chew on carrots all day long, but this is far from true. Carrots are not actually as beneficial as you may think because of their high sugar content – and rabbits can’t digest sugar efficiently. As such, carrots and other fruits should only be given sparingly.

Instead, to ensure good rabbit care, your bunny should be given good quality hay and/or grass to make up the vast bulk of a their diet – at least 85% of their daily diet. Supplementary rabbit food needs to make up just 5% of a daily ration each day and pellets are recommended by vets.

“It is far better to pick a good quality pellet diet, where all pieces are a uniform shape and size, over a ‘muesli-mix’ style of food,” says expert vet Rebecca MacMillan.

What food for rabbits should be avoided?

As mentioned, a muesli-mix is not recommended.

“This is because rabbits will pick out their favorite parts of this food, missing out on vital nutrients and leading to an unbalanced diet,” Dr MacMillan says. “You should also avoid giving your rabbit too many sugary treats. This includes commercial rabbit treats, like seed bars and yogurt drops, but also any human snacks. If these are fed too often, and your rabbit eats them in preference to their normal diet, they could lead to obesity and dental issues.”

How many pellets should I be feeding a rabbit?

Very little is the short answer. Dr MacMillan says a tablespoon of rabbit pellets or nuggets will be approximately 5% of a bunny’s daily diet. “You can offer this twice daily if you have a very large or giant rabbit breed,” she adds. “I advise owners to scatter this around the rabbit’s environment or in their hay, rather than placing it in a food dish. This provides good mental and physical stimulation, encouraging natural foraging behavior.”

What treats can I give to a rabbit?

We all like to give pets a little food treat and rabbits are no exception. In this instance, small pieces of carrot will be absolutely fine. The same is true of squash, apple, pears, melon and strawberries. But don’t overdo it.

“Treats should only be given on occasion and very sparingly to avoid weight gain and dental issues,” Dr MacMillan says.

Is water important for rabbits?

Absolutely – without water, a rabbit can become seriously ill. Any water needs to be fresh and clean and checked twice a day.

“Your rabbit should have unlimited access to water,” Dr MacMillan says. “Most rabbits prefer a water bowl to a water bottle/drinker, just make sure you check it regularly in case it gets tipped over or has any bedding in it.” Don’t let the water freeze in winter.

Trying to figure out how to tell if a rabbit is happy? If you're the proud pet parent to an adorable little bunny, then chances are their wellbeing is really important to you.

While you might think you need a degree in veterinary medicine to decipher what it is your rabbit is trying to tell you, it turns out that it's actually pretty easy to figure out whether your bunny is feeling happy or sad.

Investing in one of the best indoor rabbit hutches and the best rabbit toys are two of the easiest things you can do to ensure your bunny thrives, but if you've done that and still aren't quite sure if your beloved ball of fluff is happy, this guide will help.

Below, expert vet Dr. Hannah Godfrey reveals 10 signs your bunny is content and how to make sure they stay that way.

How to tell if a rabbit is happy

Wondering how you can tell if your rabbit is happy? We were surprised to learn just how easy it is to decipher how our floppy-eared friend is feeling! Here's 10 signs to lookout for, according to Dr. Godfrey:

1. Hopping around: "While rabbits enjoy a rest and some quiet time too, hopping around and generally being playful, curious, and active is a good sign that your rabbit is happy and healthy," she says.

2. Zoomies: We thought it was only dogs and cats that got the zoomies, but it turns out rabbits get them too! "Sometimes rabbits have bursts of energy where they’re suddenly very active and racing about. This is a good sign as long as it’s not a response to fear or stress," Dr. Godfrey explains.

3. Licking or nudging you: "Your rabbit might lick or nudge you if they’re feeling playful or want attention or a treat — all great signs that you’ve got a happy bunny."

4. They're well-groomed: "Rabbits are naturally clean animals who spend plenty of time grooming when they are well. Since they may stop or be unable to groom when they’re not feeling themselves, being well-groomed is a good indicator that they’re happy," says Dr. Godfrey.

While it's true that rabbits take care of a lot of their grooming needs themselves, they will still benefit from regular brushing and nail trimming. Check out our guide to rabbit grooming for tips and tricks on how you can do this at home.

5. Flopping over: "Rabbits often sleep in unusual positions, and this is a great sign that they’re feeling content, free from stress, and safe from threats."

6. They do a binky: Have you heard of the term bunny binky but not sure what it means? You're not alone! "A binky is an exaggerated hop and twist that rabbits do, often thought to be due to excitement," explains Dr. Godfrey. If you notice your rabbit doing this movement, it's a good sign they're feeling content.

7. Eating well: "Rabbits need to eat to keep their gut healthy, so happy and healthy bunnies will eat almost constantly!" If you've just welcomed a bunny into your family, our vet explains what to feed a rabbit (and 4 surprising things they should never eat) so you can ensure you're giving them the best possible diet to help them thrive.

8. Playing: "Showing an interest in toys and their surroundings is a great sign that your rabbit is feeling well."

9. Nose twitching: "Nose twitching is a normal behavior for rabbits and it’s something that’s more obvious when they’re excited." However, Dr. Godfrey says that a rabbits nose will also twitch more when they’re frightened too, so if you're trying to decipher whether or not your bunny is happy, you'll want to be on the lookout for other signs on this list too.

10. Relaxed body language: "Rabbits are prey animals, which means they have to stay alert to threats. Therefore, if your rabbit is sprawled out long and relaxed, showing interest in their surroundings, or calmly tucking into their food, it’s a good sign that they’re not feeling stressed," says Dr. Godfrey.

How do you know if a rabbit is sad?

When it comes to how to care for a house rabbit (or an outdoor-dwelling bunny), their health and wellbeing is often our top priority.

But alongside watching out for signs that your rabbit is happy, are there any signs you can lookout for that will let us know if your bunny is feeling blue?

Well, according to Dr. Godfrey rabbits will definitely give you some clues if they're feeling sad.

"A rabbit who is sad or feeling unwell may eat less and pass less feces, which can be really serious. They’re also less likely to want to interact with you and may show little interest in their environment and their toys," she explains.

If you're concerned your rabbit's mood may be low, it's worth speaking with your vet who will be able to rule out any underlying health conditions and offer advice and guidance.

How to keep your rabbit happy

So, now that you know the things to watch out for that will let you know how your bunny is feeling, Dr. Godfrey has offered some tips on how you can ensure your rabbit stays happy.

"Aside from making sure that your rabbit has access to fresh water, pellet food, fresh veggies, and grass, and making sure that they have veterinary care if they are showing any signs of being unwell, there are a few other things that can help keep your rabbit happy," she says.

Firstly, make sure they have plenty of toys and enrichment in their environment to keep them occupied and mentally and physically stimulated. Secondly, make sure they have plenty of space to exercise and explore while keeping them safe from any perceived threats like very young children or other pets. Finally, if they’re sociable try to interact with them regularly doing something they enjoy, whether that’s playtime or a cuddle."

Also, when it comes to the question 'can rabbits live alone?' it's worth noting that rabbits are very sociable little creatures, so getting your bunny a buddy is well worth considering if you're looking for ways to give their happiness a boost.

Looking for more great bunny content? Our vet reveals how to house train a rabbit (and it's just 5 steps!)

If you've just welcomed a floppy-eared friend into your family, learning how to house train a rabbit is likely high on your priority list.

Many of us make the decision to house our bunnies in one of the best indoor rabbit hutches so we can have them close by, but the drawback to keeping our pets indoors is that we have to go through the process of house training them.

Thankfully, it's not as difficult as you might think. In fact, according to Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, toilet training rabbits is actually quite straightforward. To help you get the job done in record time, we asked Dr. MacMillan to walk us through the process and it turns out it's just five simple steps.

Ready to start house training your bunny? We're not hare to mess around so lettuce get straight to it (sorry, we couldn't help ourselves!)

How to house train a rabbit

1. Choose a litter box: As a new bunny owner, investing in one of the best rabbit litter boxes is the first step in the house training process. But with so many to choose from, the process can feel daunting to say the least. Thankfully, Dr. MacMillan has some guidelines on what to look out for.

"Select a large litter box, so that your rabbit has plenty of space to turn around," she advises. "The box needs to have one lower side so that they can hop in and out of it with ease. Ideally, the back would be higher at around 10-20cm though, to avoid any accidental urine sprays or litter spillages. Remember also to choose a litter box that is durable and easy to clean."

2. Select the right litter: Once you've selected a litter box, the next thing you'll want to do is shop around for the best litter for rabbits. While this may sound like a relatively unimportant purchase, having the right litter can make all the difference when it comes to whether or not your bunny will do their business where they're meant to.

"Choose unscented paper-based litter, which has far less dust than wood shavings (this can lead to respiratory issues)," says Dr. MacMillan. "You could alternatively use alfalfa, straw, or hay – some rabbits enjoy having a nibble while toileting!"

3. Start small: How much space does a rabbit need? When it comes to house training your floppy-eared friend, Dr. MacMillan says it's important to start small and confine your bunny to one area when you're toilet training them. Granting them access to the whole house at once can feel overwhelming and increases the chance of accidents.

"First, keep the litter box in one corner of their enclosure and allow your rabbit time to familiarize themselves with it by limiting their access elsewhere. You can keep your rabbit confined to a generous sized enclosure, or pen a small area off for them.

You can encourage them to toilet in it by placing some soiled litter and droppings in there. Many rabbits naturally choose to toilet in one corner of their enclosure anyway, so try and site the litter tray there if you can.

Clean the rest of their enclosure frequently. You can always give your rabbit a treat or some hay when they are in their litter tray to further encourage them."

4. Give your rabbit a bit more space: Dr. MacMillan suggests that you start to give your bunny more room to roam about in once they understand the concept of the litter box and are consistently using it. You can do this by adding in more litter boxes around the house.

"In addition to their enclosure litter box, place a litter box or two in various corners of the room while allowing your rabbit exploration time around the house. Again, place some droppings and urine in it to encourage use. Clean up any accidents that happen outside of the litter box straight away, so that your rabbit doesn’t re-use that area."

Just be sure you read our guide to how to bunny proof a room before you let your rabbit loose as this will ensure they stay safe (and keep your cables and clothing from being chewed!)

5. Take the training wheels off: Worried you might have a house filled with rabbit litter trays for the rest of your life? Don't be. According to Dr. MacMillan you should find you're able to start removing these once your rabbit has stopped having accidents.

"You may be able to remove the litter trays around the house and instead just leave the one litter box for them to use in their enclosure. Just make sure that they always have free access to their enclosure so that they can hop back inside to toilet at any time. Continue to ensure the rest of their enclosure is kept clean."

Are rabbits easy to house train?

If you've just welcomed a new bunny into your family, you may be wondering how easy they are to house train. Thankfully, Dr. MacMillan says rabbits are usually very straightforward to house train, as long as you're consistent with your approach and clean up any accidents quickly.

"If toileting accidents do occur, then their poop is at least fairly easy to deal with. Just ensure your clean any areas with a pet-safe enzymatic spray, to discourage further inappropriate toileting in that area. Neutered rabbits tend to be easier to train than entire ones, however, as they have less tendency to scent mark with urine or feces."

How long does it take to house train a rabbit?

When you have a rabbit pooping around your house, it's understandable that you might start to feel a bit frustrated with the whole house training process. But Dr. MacMillan says it's important to remember that rabbits learn in their own time and patience is key.

"The majority of rabbits will learn within a few days to a few weeks. There is no difference between males and females – they both take the same amount of time to learn. However, you will find it more straightforward in a pet that is neutered."

Why does my bunny not use the litter box?

Struggling to get your rabbit to use their litter box? Dr. MacMillan says there could be several reasons why your bunny is choosing not to use it.

"If the box is too small or too difficult to access, this could put your rabbit off from using it," she says. "Not cleaning the litter box often enough could also create problems. While you want it to have a little bit of urine and faeces in it during training, don’t allow the box to become completely saturated." Check out our guide to how to clean a rabbit cage for more information on this.

Finally, Dr. MacMillan says that sometimes a medical complaint may mean your rabbit is not using their box appropriately. "Urinary tract infections or digestive issues could cause them to toilet elsewhere, as can arthritic pain."

Why is my bunny peeing and pooping everywhere?

Having your rabbit peeing and pooping around your house after you've completed the house training process can be a challenging issue to deal with, but Dr. MacMillan says there are normally clear reasons why a bunny may be toileting inappropriately.

Your rabbit could be scent-marking in your house, particularly if they have not been neutered," she explains. "Alternatively, they may not be completely house-trained yet. You may need to take a few steps back with their training."

To do this, consider keeping your bunny in their enclosure with their tray for a while or putting up barriers to prevent them accessing other rooms in the house.

"Place poo and urinated bedding material in their tray. Once they are happy with this, start to increase the area again and consider putting another litter tray outside of their enclosure for a little while too," Dr. MacMillan advises.

"Problems often happen when your rabbit is given too much space too soon, before they are ready. If you are still having problems then get your rabbit checked over by your vet, in case there is an underlying health issue causing toileting accidents."

If you enjoyed this feature be sure to check out 32 facts about rabbits that might surprise you. Plus, we answer the question, can rabbits live alone?

Wondering how to get rid of fleas on rabbits? When we think about pesky parasites, it's often dogs and cats that first spring to mind, but believe it or not, small pets can be affected too.

When you first welcomed your floppy-eared friend into your family, your mind was likely occupied with thoughts of purchasing one of the best indoor rabbit hutches, as well as food and toys for your new bunny.

However, now that your rabbit is an established member of your household, your thoughts may have turned to how to ensure they stay in peak physical health. If so, you may be curious about whether rabbits can get fleas.

The good news is that fleas on rabbits are rare – however, they can happen in multi-pet homes where your bunny may be spending time with dogs or cats. With that in mind, we consulted expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan to find out more about how rabbits get fleas, the signs to be on the lookout for, and what you can do to prevent them.

How do rabbits get fleas?

Did you know that, unlike dogs and cats, it's actually really unusual for rabbits to get fleas? It's true!

"I rarely find fleas on the pet rabbits I see in my clinic," Dr MacMillan confirms. "Flea problems are uncommon but if your bunny is affected then it is likely that they have been caught from a cat or a dog within the household. Outdoor rabbits could also potentially catch them from contact with wild rabbits or from flea pupae that were lying in wait in the grass."

When it comes to our top tips for indoor rabbit owners, getting your bunny vaccinated is something we really recommend as this will help protect them against the many issues that fleas can cause.

"Though flea problems are not often seen, it is worth knowing that fleas can be a real health hazard, transmitting myxomatosis. Vaccination will help to protect your rabbit against this fatal illness," says Dr MacMillan.

How would I know if my rabbit has fleas?

Has my rabbit got fleas? It's a question you may be asking, especially if your bunny is part of a multi-pet household that includes dogs or cats. Dr MacMillan reveals the signs you want to be on the lookout for:

"Excessive scratching and overgrooming could indicate fleas. This could include nibbling at themselves more than usual resulting in patches of fur loss or thinning.

You might see small bits of flea dirt (poo) in their coat. This will appear like black or brown specks in their fur. Get some of this dirt and gently rub it onto some damp cotton wool or paper towel. If it leaves a reddish-brown smudge, then this is digested blood and a sure sign that your rabbit has fleas. In some cases, you may also see the fleas themselves running through your rabbit’s coat. These parasites will be small, shiny, brown, and wingless.

If your rabbit has a heavy infestation they may be suffering from anemia, due to blood loss. Anemic rabbits will be weak, subdued, and have pale gums."

However, Dr MacMillan also states that some rabbits may show no signs of fleas at all, which is why conducting regular checks of your bunny's coat is recommended. Check out our guide to rabbit grooming for advice on how to do this.

How do I get rid of fleas on a rabbit?

As a responsible rabbit owner, you may be wondering if you need to regularly flea your floppy-eared friend like you would a dog or cat. But according to Dr MacMillan, this typically isn't necessary.

"Most rabbits don’t require routine flea treatment because flea issues are not common. So, it’s unnecessary to use preventative products on healthy rabbits. Treatment is only usually required if you see fleas on your bunny."

In these instances where you have found fleas on your rabbit, speak to your vet who will be able to advise you on an appropriate course of action. They will likely give you a prescription product that can be used to treat and clear the infestation.

What flea treatment can I use on a rabbit?

If you have dogs or cats in your home, it can be very tempting to apply the same flea treatment to your rabbit that you'd use on your other fur friends. After all, if you're anything like us, you may be thinking that flea treatments are flea treatments, right? Wrong. We were surprised to learn that an ingredient contained in many cat and dog flea treatments is actually highly toxic to rabbits.

"A common active ingredient found in many cat and dog anti-flea products is fipronil. While fipronil is safe for our other pets, it is toxic for rabbits," explains Dr MacMillan.

"If you have treated your cat or dog with a fipronil-based product then be sure to keep them away from your rabbit for several days afterwards. Never use a product on your rabbit unless you are certain it is safe, speak with your vet if you are unsure."

So, if using fipronil-based products is out, are there any safe alternatives that you can use at home to keep fleas at bay? You'll be relieved to hear that there are safe options available for treating fleas on rabbits.

"There are flea products available that are safe for use on rabbits," confirms Dr MacMillan. "These usually come in the form of a spot-on treatment that you apply topically such as imidacloprid (Advantage) or selamectin (Revolution/Stronghold). Flea shampoos or dips are not usually recommended. It is always best to speak to your vet for advice, as they will be able to direct you towards a safe and effective product."

How to prevent fleas on rabbits

As with all things, prevention is always better than cure when it comes to fleas. When it comes to caring for a house rabbit, Dr MacMillan says that one of the most important things you're going to want to be doing on a regular basis is ensuring that you regularly apply a topical flea treatment to any dogs or cats that are a part of your family. Here are round-ups of our best flea treatments for dogs and best flea treatments for cats.

"In my experience, the best thing you can do to protect your rabbit is to make sure that any cats and dogs that live in your household are covered with an anti-parasite product (choose one that doesn’t contain fipronil). This will help to avoid bringing a flea problem into your home in the first place, which is the most common route of transmission."

If any of your other pets are currently being treated for a flea infestation, we also recommend you wash all of their bedding once a week and pop it in the dryer afterward if you have one as the heat will help to kill any pests hidden in the fabric.

Vacuuming your house (including hardwood floors) on a daily basis can also help to remove flea eggs — just be sure to empty the canister into an outdoor garbage can when you've finished.

Looking for more great content like this? Our vet explains what to feed a rabbit and how to keep a rabbit cool in the summer

Looking for the best bedding for rabbits is, in some ways, on a par with searching for a lovely, comfortable bed for yourself. With a safe, clean layer beneath their delicate bodies, rabbits will feel less stressed. They will also find themselves living in a hygienic environment where pee and poo is absorbed and kept away from their skin. As a consequence, they’ll lead healthier lives.

But finding the best bedding for rabbits isn’t easy. There are lots of products made from a range of different materials and some are sure to be more suitable than others. Indeed, you may find that some bedding can be dusty, which can lead to upper respiratory infections. Opt for hay, straw, aspen shavings, paper and blankets, however, and you generally can’t go wrong.

One thing’s for sure, though, you will need to buy something whether that’s for one of the best indoor rabbit enclosures or the best outdoor rabbit hutches.

“All rabbits need bedding, including those that live indoors,” affirms expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan “Bedding allows rabbits to feel cozy and secure and outdoor rabbits also need bedding in order to provide warmth, especially in the winter months.”

In some ways, your decision may depend on whether you know how to clean a rabbit cage or how to litter train a rabbit but let’s take a look at some of the best bedding for rabbits, checking out the suitability of the materials and how well they stand up to continued use.

The best bedding for rabbits 2026

How we compared the best bedding for rabbits

First of all, we took expert advice from Dr Rebecca MacMillan, a companion animal vet. She explained why rabbits need bedding.

“Bedding allows rabbits to feel cozy and secure,” she said. “Most rabbits like to build a nest as well as burrow and dig in their bedding, which provides good stimulation. Bedding also helps to absorb moisture, keeping your rabbit clean and dry.”

Bearing in mind that outdoor rabbits also need warmth, we considered:

Comfort: Is the material going to kind to a rabbit’s fur and skin and would it help a bunny to remain warm at night or during cold winter months?

Cleanliness: How often would the bedding need changing and would that be an easy process? Would the bedding absorb most mess and control odor?

The environment: Is the bedding sustainably-sourced and can it be safely disposed of, ideally by being composted or recycled?

Should bedding always be used?

In general, yes. Bedding is great for indoor and outdoor rabbits, especially if they would otherwise be on a hard floor. Some experts would suggest you only place bedding in a litter box but if you maintain bedding well, there’s no reason it can’t be more widespread. If bunnies don’t like the bedding, they’ll likely move it out of the way anyway. But are there situations when bedding definitely shouldn’t be used?

“The only time that bedding may need to be avoided is if your rabbit is recovering from surgery,” advises Dr Rebecca MacMillan. “Your vet may suggest avoiding things that irritate or accidentally get stuck to the wound during this time (like straw), but they would usually still advise ensuring your rabbit has something else soft to lie on.”

What is the best material to use for bedding?

A blanket is absolutely fine for bedding if you want your rabbit to be able to play around but it’s not going to offer some of the extra properties of more traditional bedding: it won’t, for example, control odor and it won’t be as effective an insulator as some other alternatives. You’ll also find that you’re throwing blankets into the washing machines and there’s a cost to that, both monetary and environmentally.

As such, you’re better opting for aspen shavings, paper, hay and straw and using blankets as a supplementary bedding, perhaps if your rabbit is out of the enclosure.

“It is best to use a material that your rabbit can dig around in and arrange how they see fit,” says Dr Rebecca MacMillan. “Dust-extracted straw is good for this. Shredded paper could also be used for this purpose if it doesn’t contain any ink print that could be toxic.”

What material should be avoided?

There are some pitfalls to certain bedding material – in some cases, the wrong choice could cause health issues, which is why your choice matters. Dust is generally a big problem.

“It is best to choose straw that has been dust-extracted as this will reduce the risk of causing respiratory issues in your pet,” says Dr Rebecca MacMillan. “Straw that is purchased straight from a farm may be cheaper, but it is unlikely to have been treated and could also contain other things such as fungal spores. The straw you pick should also be soft (to reduce the risk of eye injuries) and sweet-smelling.”

What do vets recommend?

According to Dr Rebecca MacMillan, you should consider all available choices.

“Another option is to purchase a rabbit nest or plush bed for them to lie on,” she says. “If you are choosing something like this, ensure it is machine washable and check it regularly for any damage.”

But ultimately, you need to consider how your rabbit behaves and buy bedding that is most likely to satisfy their desires. “You should provide your rabbit with other bedding materials and litter in their enclosure so that they can carry out natural behaviors such as digging and nest building,” she says.

You may also want to read our guide to the best litter for rabbits.

Can rabbits live alone? We wanted to know too, so we spoke with vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out the answer. We generally see rabbits living in pairs or small groups, that's because bunnies are generally social butterflies and thrive when living with other rabbits.

Rabbits rely on each other not just for someone to play with but also for warmth and protection. While it is also possible for rabbits to live very happy lives living alone, their pet owners will have to step up to the plate to provide them with plenty of interaction, love, and of course some of the best rabbit toys.

Let's get into all the reasons why you may want to consider getting your rabbit a friend.

Can rabbits live alone?

Dr. Rebecca MacMillan notes that rabbits often do well when living together as they are very sociable animals. She says, "In the wild rabbits live in communities that consist of interconnecting burrows... Bonded rabbits will mutually groom each other, snuggle up together and play."

If rabbits spend too much time alone they can be prone to developing behavioral issues such as depression and anxiety. They are also at risk for developing health-related problems such as obesity. It is for these reasons that it may be better to keep them in pairs.

What pairings should you consider?

Now that we've got our answer, the next thing to wonder is what pairings are best. Two boys, two girls, a girl and a boy? Dr. MacMillan says, "In my experience, a neutered male and a neutered female tend to make the best pairing. Alternatively, two boys or two girls that are litter mates may also be ok, if you get them neutered promptly. Hormones could lead to fighting as they grow bigger."

If you are a new rabbit parent, you may be wondering about the neutering process. We can say that is super important for the health of your bunny friend. "In male rabbits, neutering is also known as castration, which is the surgical removal of both testicles. In females, it is also known as a spay procedure. A sterile incision is made through your rabbit’s abdomen and the ovaries and uterus are removed," says Dr. MacMillan.

Neutering can significantly reduce aggressive behaviors and scent-marking tendencies. It also will eliminate the risk of any unwanted pregnancies. Also in females it reduces the risk of uterine cancer, which is commonly seen in older rabbits. Most rabbits will be neutered between four to five months old, but we recommend checking with your vet to see when the best time for rabbit is.

What about rabbits who live alone?

Of course, there are cases when rabbits may prefer living alone. For example, if they have aggressive tendencies and do not bond well with other rabbits. Or if pet parents simply prefer to just have one bunny hopping around the house.

If you have a solo bunny, it is very important to set up their home life to support them. They will need plenty of space to play and run around. They will also need one of the best indoor rabbit hutches for them to hang out in. You can check out this guide to find out what rabbits need in their cage to make their home comfy and cozy.

Dr. MacMillan advises against housing them with other small animals such as guinea pigs. As each different animal will have different dietary and social needs.

You may also want to learn all the do's and don'ts of feeding rabbits correctly to ensure they are getting a quality diet.

If you enjoyed this feature be sure to check out 32 facts about rabbits that might surprise you.

Choosing the best litter for rabbits may not sound like the most exciting of tasks but getting it right will make life much easier and comfortable for both you and your bunny. The aim is to provide a clean and inviting space for a rabbit to pee and poop while also ensuring it doesn’t have an adverse impact in your home. To that end, you need to consider the material used, its absorbency and its ability to control odor.

With the rise in popularity of the best indoor rabbit hutches, you also need to think about dust. If you use a lot of litter, then you certainly don’t want particles spreading around your home and, just as importantly, getting into your rabbits lungs. One thing’s for sure, you need to avoid the best cat litters, too. “Don’t be tempted to use clumping cat litter because if your rabbit ingests this it could cause blockages in their digestive system,” says expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan.

Instead, use material that will encourage your bunny to make use of the litter since figuring out how to litter box train a rabbit will be easier if you provide an ideal environment, which includes one of the best rabbit litter boxes. Indeed, as we’re about to see, there’s plenty of great products on offer so let’s check the best litter for rabbits and explore the different materials you can buy.

The best litter for rabbits 2026

How we compared the best litter for rabbits

Safety was a primary concern when shopping around for the best litter for rabbits. Given a bunny is going to be using litter often, we needed to be sure that the litter was soft and that it would be as dust-free as possible to avoid respiratory issues and would be sharp. We also considered:

Smells: We looked for litter that would control odors. No-one wants a stinky home.

Cleanliness: It’s important that spoiled litter can be easily and quickly cleaned.

The environment: Throwing litter into the bin seems wasteful so we were on the lookout for any litter that could be recycled or composted.

What do vets recommend as the best litter for rabbits?

There are other specific factors to consider when looking for the best litter, all of which take into consideration the health of your rabbit. According to expert vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan, the best litter to use in a rabbit’s enclosure and litter box is an unscented paper-based product.

“There are different types of paper-based litter available, including pulped, shredded, and pellets,” she says. “These all carry the same advantage of being low in dust, to reduce triggering respiratory issues. Paper-based products tend to be pretty absorbent too.”

If you do opt for paper, however, then you may need to supplement it.

“When choosing your litter, you may also want to consider the comfort of the product for your rabbit so if you choose paper pellets then you may want to put a layer of dust-extracted straw over the top to make them softer and more comfortable,” Dr MacMillan adds. She also advises you to avoid any shredded paper that has ink on it as some types of ink can cause issues if ingested.

What litter for rabbits should be avoided?

Just as there are litters best suited for rabbits, so there are litters that you really need to steer clear of and Dr Rebecca MacMillan says sawdust and wood shavings should be top of the list.

“Sawdust can irritate the respiratory tract and the skin, due to the oils/phenols contained in the wood as well as all of the fine particles of dust.”

She also says you need to avoid clumping cat litter just in case your rabbit decides to have a nibble only to find it causes a very unpleasant blockage.

“You should also steer clear of any products that are scented,” she says.

What household items could be used as litter?

What if you’re in a bit of a jam and you either don’t have any litter left or your waiting for your litter order to arrive. Is there a material that may be knocking around your home that you could use temporarily? Dr Rebecca MacMillan suggests using newspapers – and we’re talking the actual printed products here, of course: those rarities which you may have seen in a store.

Joking aside, newspapers are actually great. “If you are in a fix, you could use newspaper to line your rabbit’s cage but ideally cover this with a layer of dust-extracted straw to reduce the chances of your rabbit nibbling on it,” Dr MacMillan says.

“It is safer to use plain, non-glossy newspapers that are printed with non-toxic ink [most are these days]. If you are not sure, rub your finger over the print. Safe soy-based inks won’t smudge, whereas petroleum-based ink will.”

How often does litter for rabbits need to be changed?

Litter will get soiled. It’s what it’s there for but you can’t just leave your rabbit to live with it for days on end. It needs cleaning otherwise it could become harmful to your pet. How often cleaning your rabbit’s enclosure needs to happen depends largely on the type of litter you use but daily maintenance and removal of poops is essential.

“Rabbit litter should be changed frequently to keep your rabbit clean and to avoid the build-up of ammonia in the environment,” says Dr MacMillan. “Spot-checks to remove small amounts of soiled litter should be performed daily, but a full change of the litter needs to happen once a week.”

Knowing how to read a rabbit's body language is really important whether you are a new bunny parent or an experienced one. Knowing the characteristics of a content rabbit, one who may be feeling anxious or one who is unwell is key to raising a happy and healthy bunny.

A happy rabbit can be seen doing binkies around the house or chasing after one of the best rabbit toys at top speed. On the other hand, a bunny who is feeling anxious or worried, may be in a crouched position with their muscles tensed.

Knowing what your rabbit's body language is trying to tell you, can help you tune into your bunny so that you can make sure they’re always feeling their best. Knowing their own unique patterns will also alert you when something is worth getting checked over by a vet.

We've got some interesting insights from Dr. Rebecca MacMillan on rabbit body language and things to look out for.

Signs of a happy bunny

One thing that only rabbit owners relate to is rabbit binkies. A half-twist when a rabbit jumps off the ground mid-run, is called a binky. Binkies are one of the most common behaviors of a happy bunny. While this behavior is most commonly seen in younger or more energetic rabbits, older bunnies are known to get a case of the bunny binkies, too.

Dr. MacMillan says, "Some bunnies may do a mini version of this where they just twist their head and shoulders slightly as they run... they may shake their ears, too."

She also notes that happy rabbits can be seen practicing their version of the zoomies, running in circles at high speeds. This is just one of the reasons rabbits need plenty of space so that they have the room to display these happy behaviors.

Dr. MacMillan also says, "A cheerful rabbit will also be a curious one. They will be engaging with their toys, the environment, and you. They will also have a good appetite and spend plenty of time each day happily munching their hay."

Signs of distressed rabbit

As we mentioned earlier, a worried bunny may sit in a crouched position with their muscles tensed and ears flattened. A scared or anxious rabbit may also flatten its body to the ground, with their paws under the body ready to run if need be. A rabbit that feels afraid may also try to hide away.

An angry or distressed rabbit may do a few other things, explains Dr MacMillan.

"They could try and run away, with their ears flattened and back feet flicking. Alternatively, they may hold themselves very still, with tense muscles, erect ears, and dilated pupils. Their back legs may be making loud thumping sounds on the ground."

It may be hard to imagine in your cute little bundle of fluff, but rabbits can also display signs of aggression. This could look like rabbits sitting on their hind legs in a boxing-style stance. Some rabbits may growl or even bite. You can read our on guide on rabbit biting and how to avoid it, to help navigate this behavior.

When should you worry about a rabbit's behavior?

Of course, there are also signs that your rabbit is a perfectly happy bunny but feeling unwell. Dr MacMillan says, "Unwell rabbits tend to become subdued and may be eating less. In my experience, they don’t move around as much as normal and may adopt a hunched, tucked-in position."

Different rabbit noises can indicate something is not quite right. Teeth grinding, can be a sign that your rabbit is in pain. It may also be worth reading up on how to spot five common diseases in rabbits.

If you found this feature helpful you may want to check out Why do rabbits pull fur out and how to stop them doing it.

If you’re researching rabbits, you might be wondering how much space they need. It might be more than you think! Despite their small size, bunnies actually need a fair amount so they can hop, run and binky their days away. 

Taking them for a short walk on one of the best rabbit harnesses is a nice addition (if your bunny is happy with it) but unfortunately it just isn’t enough – really they need one of the best indoor rabbit hutches or best outdoor rabbit hutches to provide them with enough daily living space.

To find out exactly how much space a rabbit needs, we spoke with vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan…

How much space does a rabbit need?

To simply answer the question “How much space does a rabbit need?”, the Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund (RWAF) recommends that all rabbits, those living indoors and outdoors, should have a single enclosed area of at least 3m x 2m (10ft x 6.5ft), and it should be at least 1m (3ft) high. This footprint can include the sleeping area, which itself should be a minimum of 1.8m x 0.6m (6ft x 2ft), and at least 0.6m (2ft) high.

It's important that rabbits have access to this amount of space at all times, not just for limited periods. RWAF also stresses the importance of this being one block of space, as this allows rabbits to engage in their natural behaviors like running, as opposed to just hopping.

Dr MacMillan agreed with the enclosure size recommended by RWAF, adding: “It is advised to have their smaller, cozy sleeping area (e.g. a hutch) permanently attached to an exercising area so that your rabbit can move between the areas as they wish.”

And of course, it goes without saying that these sizing guidelines are a minimum to aim for.

“I always advise rabbit owners to give their pets as much space as they possibly can. It is important to recognize that the measurements provided are a basic minimum, and if you can give your rabbit more space then you should,” she added. “This applies to both indoor and outdoor rabbits. Remember the saying – ‘a hutch is never enough’.”

You should also take into account the size of your rabbit, as different breeds vary tremendously. For example, a Flemish Giant is going to need more space to frolic than a teeny Netherland Dwarf. When researching the indoor rabbit hutches, you'll also want to select one big enough for the full grown adult size of your rabbit.

There are lots of different ways to meet your rabbit’s housing and space requirements, but it is important to note that any upper floor space – such as that seen in two-storey indoor or outdoor rabbit hutches – does not count towards the overall footprint. The same applies to additional enrichment areas, such as tunnels or raised platforms. These are nice extras for your bunny (and great for enrichment) but cannot count towards the space requirements.

While you may choose to purchase one of the best rabbit runs for your indoor bunnies to safely explore outside, it’s important to note that these also don’t count toward the minimum space requirement that your rabbit's primary enclosure needs to meet.

Do rabbits need extra space in addition to their enclosure?

These enclosure measurements are the bare minimum a rabbit needs, and in addition to their main enclosure they should ideally have access to a larger exercise space too.

We’d suggest providing your bunny with an additional 24 square feet of exercise space – but again the bigger the better. For indoor bunnies, this could mean rabbit proofing one room of your home and allowing them access for exercise. In a perfect world, they would have access to this area all the time, but at least five hours a day as a minimum.

Dr MacMillan suggests that one way to provide your rabbits with even more space is to set up an enclosure and tunnel system.

“There is plenty of inspiration online, but some dedicated rabbit owners construct interconnecting sheds, aviaries, and runs with tunnels designed specifically for this purpose. This helps to build a warren-like environment and can help to increase the amount of overall area that your rabbits have.”

The best puppy plan pens are also handy if you need a quick way to rabbit-proof a room in your home.

Why do rabbits need this much space?

If you're used to seeing pet rabbits kept in hutches, the suggested sizes might seem positively palatial to you. Especially considering the size of the average rabbit! But it's vital to the health of your rabbit that they have enough space.

Dr MacMillan explains that in the wild, rabbits would have endless space to roam and build burrows in.

“The more floor area given to your pet rabbit, the more opportunities it has to display natural behaviors, like foraging, running, and jumping (and binkying!),” says Dr MacMillan. “Pet rabbits must have more than enough space to stretch, stand up on their hind legs, and hop around in. Any less than this can severely impact their health and wellbeing.”

What happens if a rabbit doesn’t have access to enough space?

Rabbits that don’t have enough space can be negatively affected both physically and emotionally.

“Without enough room to move about and exercise in, your rabbit could suffer from obesity as well as issues with the strength of their bones and muscles,” says Dr MacMillan.

But it’s not just their bodies that will suffer from limited space.

“Being cooped up in a tiny area and unable to carry out natural behaviors is also not good for the mental health of any creature. It can lead to behavioral issues such as depression, anxiety, or aggression. Your rabbit may take out their frustrations on themselves through overgrooming or could become destructive in their enclosure,” she adds.

If you’re interested in getting a pet, it’s no surprise we think rabbits are a fantastic choice. They’re playful, cute and full of personality! But before you rush out to your local rabbit rescue, it’s worth making sure you’ve got the space to offer your new bunnies the environment they need to thrive.

If you want to learn how to cut rabbit nails, then you've come to the right place. We asked vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan the questions you need to know, like how to do it safely and whether you can use regular nail cutters. 

For first-time bunny owners, the idea of trimming their nails might seem a little daunting (especially if they don't like being held!) After all, the last thing we want to do is hurt them, get it wrong or lose their trust. 

However, it's easier than you might think and after a couple of attempts, you'll get the hang of it. Your bunny will also get used to it over time as it becomes part of their regular rabbit care routine. 

Unsure whether you need to cut them yet? Check whether their nails go beyond the hair on their paws. If they do, they're definitely worth a trim! Here's a complete guide on how to get started (including the three mistakes to avoid):

How to cut rabbit nails

Make sure you give yourself enough time  — this isn't something you want to rush. To make things easier, it's worth asking someone to help you hold them while you cut their nails (especially if your bunny is on the stubborn side!) You can also wrap them in a towel to keep them calm. 

Dr. MacMillan warns that you should avoid cutting their nails too short or cutting into the sensitive area towards the base of the nail. If you do, this will cause bleeding and discomfort for your bunny. In this instance, you should apply gentle pressure to the area with a tissue or cotton wool.

She explains: "In rabbits with white claws, you will see this as a pink vein-like line inside the nail. Cut the nail straight across, a couple of millimeters beyond this sensitive quick. The claw beyond this quick has no sensation and should cause your rabbit no discomfort. 

"If your rabbit has darker nails, then this can be trickier, and you might have to estimate based on any lighter nails your pet has."

To keep the experience positive, Dr. MacMillan recommends comforting your rabbit and giving them a reward afterwards.

If you're still feeling stuck, ask your vet to show you the best technique.

Do I have to cut my rabbit's nails?

Dr. MacMillan says that rabbits' nails are constantly growing, and if they live outside, then they might be worn down via scratching and digging. So, does this mean that we need to intervene and cut them as well?

She says: "Most rabbits will need their claws cut at some point, especially as they don’t do as much digging as their wild counterparts. As a guide, your rabbit’s nails should not extend beyond the hair on their paws. If you see that the nails are protruding beyond this, then they definitely need trimming."

Can I cut rabbit nails with normal nail cutter?

Yes, it is possible to use human nail clippers, but it might be harder if you're cutting claws on larger rabbits.

Dr. MacMillan says: "The best tool to use to clip your rabbit’s claws is proper small pet nail clippers. These are sturdy and designed to tackle the thicker hind claws as well as the front ones."

How to keep a rabbit still for nail clipping

If your rabbit is prone to wriggling, get another person to hold them while you trim. Dr. MacMillan recommends doing this on a non-slip surface or a towel and says that you should use gentle restraint. 

She says: "Holding them too firmly, especially if they start resisting the nail trim, could result in injuries. If your rabbit is particularly flighty, it is probably best to trim their nails on the floor to avoid them falling from a height and injuring themselves. If you are struggling and your rabbit is difficult to handle, then take them to your vet for their nail trim instead."

What mistakes should you avoid when cutting a rabbit’s nails?

All pet parents are bound to make a mistake at some point — no one is perfect, after all! However, here's a reminder of the things you should avoid:

1. Never hold your bunny on their back

Dr. MacMillan says: "Rabbits should never be held on their back for nail trimming. This practice is known as ‘hypnotizing’ and makes the bunny go into a trance-like state. However, this is known to cause an immense amount of stress to rabbits and mimics the response they have when being attacked by a predator."

2. Never restrain them with force

Make sure you're gentle with your bunny to avoid any injuries. If you find it too difficult to keep them still, your vet will be able to do it for you instead.

3. Never cut their nails too short

To avoid pain, bleeding and discomfort, don't cut them too short or into the sensitive area of the nail.

For more rabbit content, read our features on bunny binkies and tips for keeping indoor rabbits .

If you're thinking about getting a bunny, you might be wondering, 'How long do rabbits live?' It's something that's important to keep in mind before you commit to the responsibility.

As pet parents, we dread the day that our pets pass away and would do anything to keep them around forever. While this isn't possible, there are some things that you can do to help them live a longer, healthier and happier life, like investing in the best pet insurance and giving them the right rabbit care.

Bunnies might look like easy pets, but they require more care and attention than you might think. Not only do they need to be fed the correct diet, but they also need grooming, mental stimulation, and exercise. Plus, you'll need to keep their environment clean and have regular vet check-ups.

If you want to learn more about a pet rabbit lifespan, and how to ensure they have a good life, keep on reading. Expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan has all the answers you're looking for.

How long do rabbits live?

This might come as a surprise, but pet rabbits can reach their teenage years if they're given the right care and attention. However, Dr. MacMillan says that they usually live for eight to 12 years on average.

She says: "This means rabbits are a big commitment and owners should consider this when purchasing their pet. I have encountered many owners who have bought a rabbit on a whim, not realizing how long their pet could be with them."

Domesticated rabbits live significantly longer than wild ones, who only live up to nine years old (if that!) Dr. MacMillan explains that they die a lot sooner due to environmental dangers, such as predators and disease, as well as the constant stress.

How can I help my rabbit live a long and happy life?

1. Get them vaccinated

Even if they live indoors, make sure you vaccinate your rabbit annually against myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic diseases 1 and 2.

Dr. MacMillan says: "These viruses are fatal and can be spread through insects like flies and fleas, so any rabbit could potentially be at risk. Unfortunately, once they contract the illness there is not much that can be done to save them, which is why vaccination is so important."

2. Healthy diet

To keep your bunny happy and healthy, you'll need to feed them the correct food. Wondering what to feed a rabbit? Dr. MacMillan advises a diet that's predominantly grass and hay. Choose high-quality timothy or meadow hay and make sure they have access to it at all times.

You can also feed them a handful of leafy greens every day, she says. Whether it's dandelions, parsley, kale, or spinach, these are all safe to feed your bunny and should make up 10% of their diet. You can also feed them a tablespoon of dry pellets once or twice a day (but avoid the muesli-style mixes).

Dr. MacMillan says: "Feeding your rabbit like this will help to ensure that their teeth are kept worn down, their digestive tract stays in good order and that they are less likely to become obese."

3. Check their bottom

Flystrike can be fatal if it's not caught early, which is why you should check your rabbit's bottom regularly. If you're not sure what flystrike is, it's when maggots burrow into the skin and feed on the flesh.

Dr. MacMillan says: "I always advise rabbit owners to frequently check their rabbits' bottoms, especially during the warm summer months. Even the cleanest rabbit can get a dirty bottom occasionally and this can quickly become attractive to flies. Flies lay their eggs in warm, smelly areas."

4. Get them neutered

There are lots of reasons why you should neuter your rabbit. Not only does it reduce the risk of uterine adenocarcinoma (cancer of the womb) in females, but it also stops unwanted pregnancies.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "Neutering in both male and female rabbits can reduce sexual behaviors and make them more amenable pets."

5. Get pet insurance

If your rabbit becomes unwell, the last thing you want to worry about is an expensive medical bill. That's why it's so important to have pet insurance to help cover the costs. If you're unsure of which one to buy, here's how to choose the best pet insurance.

Dr. MacMillan says: "I strongly advise pet insurance for rabbits to help cover the costs of vet treatment if they were to ever become unwell. Insurance may mean owners can afford to access higher levels of medical care, which could lead to better patient outcomes. More and more rabbits are being referred to specialists for advanced imaging and treatment these days, so pet insurance is well worth considering."

Which rabbit breeds live the longest?

Dr. MacMillan says that larger breeds usually have a shorter lifespan in comparison to smaller breeds. However, she stresses that this isn't guaranteed and things like genetics, medical issues, and bad care are all factored into their longevity.

She adds: "A Netherland dwarf rabbit may reach 12 or 13, whereas a giant French lop may only live five to seven years. So, if you want a rabbit that is more likely to live a long time, then choose a dwarf breed."

For more bunny advice, read: How to keep a rabbit cool in summer and what do rabbits need in their cage?

What do rabbits need in their cage? If you're bringing home a bunny for the first time, it's important that you have everything ready for their arrival to help them settle in.

Before you welcome your new fur friend home, you'll want to invest in one of the best indoor rabbit hutches. This should be big enough for your bunny to stand up on its hindlegs without touching the roof, allow them to lie down flat in every direction and take a few hops. You'll also want to provide them with a living area where they can run around and get some much-needed exercise.

When it comes to rabbit care, there are so many things to think about. To make your life easier, we've put together a complete checklist of everything your rabbit needs in their cage. We've also recommended some high-quality products to save you time:

What do rabbits need in their cage?

Toys

Bunnies are intelligent and need to be mentally stimulated - whether that's through solo play or interactive play with you. To ensure your rabbit doesn't get bored, make sure you provide them with the best rabbit toys in their cage.

Stuck for ideas? You could fill up a puzzle feeder (like this one on Amazon) with their favorite food to activate their natural foraging instincts or give them a chew toy to gnaw their teeth into. You could also provide them with a digging toy (like this one on Chewy) and a tossing toy (such as these baby stacking cups that you can hide food in too).

Hiding places

Since rabbits are prey animals, they need to have some hiding places to help them feel secure. Even if their hutch looks safe to you, they'll appreciate somewhere to go if they ever feel frightened, sick or anxious.

Position them in a safe, quiet place where your rabbit can't see or smell any predators. Like the rest of the cage, this place should be comfortable and out of any direct sunlight or draughts. If you have more than one bunny, give them their own hiding space each.

This could simply be a cardboard box or a tunnel, but if you want something that will last long-term, there are lots of affordable houses that you can buy.

Note: If your bunny is hiding on a regular basis, it's worth paying a visit to the vet.

Water bowl or bottle

Your bunny needs 24/7 access to clean, fresh water to ensure they stay hydrated. They should be drinking 50 to 150ml of water per kg of bodyweight.

Drinking water has lots of health benefits, such as helping with digestion, and keeping their heart and kidney healthy. It's also a way to prevent overheating in the summer (this feature has other ways on how to keep a rabbit cool in the summer).

You can choose from a water bowl or bottle (or both), depending on what your preferences are. While water bowls are more comfortable for your bunny to drink from, they do run the risk of contamination and can be messy. To avoid unwanted spills, choose one with a wide base.

Litter box

No one wants to toilet near their living area — and rabbits are no exception! Make sure you provide your rabbit with a separate place to do their business, like the best rabbit litter box. Bigger litter boxes are usually better, so it’s worth looking at kitten litter boxes (like this one on Amazon) if you’ve got a medium-large rabbit.

Fill this up with one of the best litters for rabbits and remember to change it regularly. Want to learn how to clean a rabbit cage? This guide can help you.

Bedding

To help absorb any moisture, line your rabbit's cage with one of the best beddings for rabbits, which might be wood pellets, pulped paper, paper pellets, shredded paper or newspaper. You then want to cover it with high-quality, dust-free straw to keep them warm and comfortable.

If you choose to line the cage with newspaper (or any inked paper), make sure you use a generous amount of straw to prevent them eating it.

Hay feeder

Wondering what to feed a rabbit? According to vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, their diet should be made up of fresh grass or the best hay for rabbits primarily. You can put this in a hay feeder to keep it separate from their bedding and to ensure it stays clean. These can be attached to the walls of your bunny's cage, and encourages them to eat slowly. Most bunnies prefer to eat while they use their litter box, so attaching it next to the box is a great choice.

You should also provide them with additional hay in a clean area (like a tunnel or a box) for foraging. You can sprinkle leafy greens and vegetables (which is 10% of their diet) and the best rabbit foods (5% of their diet) in this hay. This will keep them mentally stimulated and help to prevent boredom.

Living space

Rabbits need plenty of exercise, so ensure their cage has access to a living space where they can run around, jump and stretch their legs. This could be a secured area in your garden, a particular room or area in your home, or all of your home.

If you decide to let them roam free inside, be sure to bunny-proof your home and make sure electrical leads and wires are out of reach. You might prefer to put them in a place with hard flooring to make clean-ups easier.

For more rabbit care advice, read our guide on the best rabbit brushes.

If you want to learn how to keep a rabbit cool in summer, then you've come to the right place. As the weather gets warmer and your bunny ventures outdoors more, it's important that you know how to keep them safe in the sun.

Summer is a great time for our rabbits, giving them more time to play in the garden. However, if they get too hot then it can increase their chances of heat stroke which can be fatal. There are lots of ways that you can help prevent this, like putting one of the best indoor rabbit hutches in a cool area of your home or splashing cold water behind their ears.

Since our bunnies can't talk to us, sometimes it can be a little tricky to work out whether they're too hot or not. However, there are lots of signs to look out for which vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan has explained below. She's also given her expert advice on ways to keep a rabbit cool, what temperature is too warm, and whether they can have ice cubes.

Here's a complete summer survival guide:

How do I keep a rabbit cool in the summer?

Here are some ways that you can keep your rabbit cool in the summer, recommended by Dr. MacMillan.

1. Keep their hutch/run in the shade: If your rabbit goes outside, find a shady spot in the garden for their hutch or run and make sure you never leave it in direct sunlight.

2. Keep them somewhere cool: When your bunny is indoors, make sure you move them to a cool area of your home. You'll want to avoid areas like conservatories or sunrooms which heat up very quickly. You might also want to close the curtains or put a fan on to help them stay cool.

3. Give them something cool to lay against: Provide your rabbit with a large, cold bottle of water that they can lie on when they get too hot. A floor tile or ceramic/slate tile also works well and usually stays cold if it's left in the shade (top tip: put it in the fridge beforehand!) If you don't have any tiles lying about the house, a damp towel will do the same job.

4. Keep them well-groomed: It's always important to ensure your bunny is well-groomed as part of their regular rabbit care, but it's even more crucial in the summertime. By removing their loose fur, you'll help them to feel a lot cooler (and happier!)

Dr. MacMillan says: "You should also be checking your rabbit’s bottom at least once daily during the summer months. Ensuring that it is clean and dry will reduce the risk of flystrike. Flies are attracted to smelly, damp, or warm areas, where they will lay their eggs. If left unchecked these eggs can hatch within a matter of hours into maggots, which will start burying into your rabbit’s flesh. This is why checking on your rabbit regularly is so important."

5. Apply cool water to their ears: Did you know that rabbits don't sweat like we do? By applying cold water to their ears, you'll help them to cool down and lose heat through evaporation.

What temperature is too hot for rabbits?

You might be wondering what temperature is too hot for your rabbit. After all, it can be very subjective for us humans.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Temperatures above 25C (77 F) are too hot for rabbits. They will start to struggle at these sorts of high temperatures, and you should take steps to keep your rabbit safe and comfortable."

How do I tell if a rabbit is too hot?

If you think your bunny is too hot, Dr. MacMillan says they might...

• Seek out a shady spot
• Seek out a cooling breeze
• Stretch against cool surfaces
• Drink more water than usual (make sure this is topped up regularly)
• Breathe more rapidly than usual
• Notably pant
• Have ears that feel warm or hot when you touch them

Can rabbits have ice cubes?

There's nothing better than cooling ice cubes on a hot sunny day, so you might be curious whether our rabbits can have them too. We asked Dr. MacMillan and the answer is yes — and there a couple of ways that you can give them to your bunny.

Whether you add them to their water bowl/bottle or freeze pieces of vegetables, it's a great way to cool them down. If your rabbit isn't interested in normal ice cubes, the latter idea could encourage them more. Dr. MacMillan says to steer clear of artificially flavored or sweetened ice which isn't healthy for your bunny.

Can rabbits get heat stroke?

Unfortunately, rabbits can get heat stroke if they are exposed to hot temperatures. This can be really dangerous and even lead to death, so it's super important to know to signs so you can help immediately.

Dr. MacMillan says that if your bunny has heatstroke, they might:

• Feel weak
• Pant
• Drool
• Have hot or red ears
• Collapse
• Have a seizure

She says: "If you suspect that your rabbit is suffering from heatstroke, then this is an emergency situation. I always advise owners to lay their rabbits on a cool, damp towel and to gently apply water to their ears. You should also try and create a breeze for them (perhaps with a handheld fan) and get them to your vet as soon as possible."

Are rabbits herbivores? A vet reveals the answer in this helpful diet guide. Plus, here's how to get rid of fleas on rabbits if you suspect your bunny might be infested with pesky parasites.

If you're a first-time bunny owner, then you might be wondering what to feed a rabbit. Everyone knows that they love to munch on carrots, but really these should only be given sparingly as treats.

Rabbits are herbivores, which means that they only consume plants. They usually eat the most in the mornings and the evenings, but as grazers, they eat for many hours throughout the day.

Feeding your bunny a nutritional diet is an important part of rabbit care. If you want to find out what you should be feeding them (and the things to avoid), keep on reading. Expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan is here to help with a complete diet plan for you to follow.

What is the best thing to feed a bunny?

Dr. MacMillan says your rabbit's diet should mainly consist of grass, whether it's fresh from your garden or as hay. You can also give them some herbs and leafy green vegetables. You might be surprised to hear this, but they only need a small amount of pellets.

She says: "This may sound dull, but replicating the diet of a wild rabbit is the best way to keep your pet healthy. Rabbits have adapted to consume a high-fiber diet, which helps to keep their teeth worn down and their digestive system in good working order."

Dr. MacMillan also advises feeding your bunny high-quality hay, such as timothy or meadow hay, which is fresh and pleasant smelling. She warns that if the hay is dusty, cheap, or old, it won't have all the nutrients they need and may even contain mold spores if it hasn't been stored properly.

What should I not feed rabbits?

Now you've worked out what to feed them, you might be curious if there's anything they can't eat. Here's a breakdown of what to avoid:

Muesli-mix style food: You've probably seen these loads in the supermarket, but Dr. MacMillan doesn't recommend them. "This is because rabbits will pick out their favorite parts of this food, missing out on vital nutrients and leading to an unbalanced diet. It is far better to pick a good quality pelleted diet, where all pieces are a uniform shape and size.

Mown grass/grass clippings: If your bunny can't eat the grass directly, cut a small amount using scissors and give it to them quickly. "Lawnmowers damage the grass and warm it up, meaning bacteria can multiply on it, potentially making your pet sick."

Sugary treats: It always feels nice to give our pets a treat, but Dr. MacMillan says you should avoid doing it too often. That includes commercial rabbit treats too, like seed bars and yoghurt drops that look like they're healthy. You should avoid human snacks as well. "If these are fed too often, and your rabbit eats them in preference to their normal diet, they could lead to obesity and dental issues."

Certain plants: Bulbs (like daffodils, tulips, and bluebells) are toxic to your bunny. They should also steer clear of holly, ivy, yew, foxgloves, and primroses. "Keep your rabbit away from these plants or remove them from your garden. Make sure that all houseplants are well out of reach from inquisitive rabbits too."

What diet plan do you recommend for a bunny?

Make sure your bunny has access to unlimited hay or grass throughout the day and night. This should make up around 85% of their diet, says Dr. MacMillan.

You can also feed them leafy greens or vegetables to provide extra nutrients – this should be around 10% of their diet. She recommends kale, spinach, rocket, carrot tops, dandelions, watercress, celery, spring greens, basil, thyme and parsley.

The remaining 5% of their diet should be rabbit pellets or nuggets (about a tablespoon), soo. check out our guid to the best food for rabbits to ensure your rabbit is getting all the nutrients they need. If your bunny is very large or a giant rabbit breed, Dr. MacMillan says you can give them this twice a day.

She says: "I advise owners to scatter this in around the rabbit’s environment or in their hay, rather than placing it in a food dish. This provides good mental and physical stimulation, encouraging natural foraging behavior."

As for treats, these should only be given on occasion and very sparingly as they can cause weight gain and dental problems. They include carrots, squash, apple, pears, melon, and strawberries.

You'll also want to make sure your bunny has unlimited access to water (they prefer a bowl to a bottle or drinker). However, you'll want to be careful that it doesn't get tipped over and no bedding finds its way in.

How much does a rabbit need to eat daily?

The answer to this question all depends on their size and age. However, your bunny should have unlimited access to grass and hay, so there's no need to measure this out - just regularly replace it with fresh hay.

Dr. MacMillan says: "An average-sized rabbit may then have a handful of leafy greens to go with this each day, which you may decide to halve with some in the morning and some in the evening. Pellets should only make up a small proportion of their daily diet, a tablespoon once a day is sufficient (twice if your rabbit is a large or giant breed)."

In summary:

• Unlimited hay or grass
• A handful of leafy greens
• A tablespoon (or two for large rabbits) of pellets

To ensure you spot any issues with their diet and weight early on, Dr. MacMillan says to weigh your bunny frequently and attend regular checkups. This is a good opportunity to ask your vet any questions you may have.

She says: "It is also worth mentioning that if your rabbit goes off their food, then you must speak to your vet right away. Gut stasis can be a serious problem in rabbits, so keep an eye on whether your rabbit is eating normally or not."

You might also like: Can rabbits eat celery? Can rabbits eat broccoli?

If you're wanting to find out as many facts about rabbits as you can, you're far from alone. Super soft and affectionate, bunnies remain one of our all-time favorite pets, and yet they're also one of the most misunderstood animals — which is why getting to know them better is so important. 

Whether you're in the throes of figuring out how to care for a house rabbit or you're simply curious about these social and gentle little creatures, you'll find a ton of helpful information below.

For example, did you know that rabbits are unhappy living alone? We didn't! That's why investing in one of the best indoor rabbit hutches (or an outdoor equivalent) with plenty of space for at least two bunnies, is so important.

Keep reading for more fun facts about rabbits that may just surprise you....

32 facts about rabbits that might surprise you

1. Rabbits are not rodents

Many people believe that rabbits are rodents, and there are certainly some similarities between rabbits and some rodents, but in fact rabbits are not rodents. Rabbits are lagomorphs and belong in the same family as hares and a small mammal called a Pika, that are found mainly in the mountains and deserts of Asia.

2. Baby rabbits have a name

Have you ever wondered what baby rabbits are called? Well, baby rabbits are in fact called kittens or kits. Baby rabbits are born blind, deaf, and totally bald, and are totally defenseless. Male rabbits are called bucks and female rabbits are called does.

3. Rabbits are unhappy living alone

Rabbits are an incredibly social species, who thrive in the company of their own kind. In the wild, rabbits live in large family groups, with a defined hierarchy. However, it is not as simple as just putting two rabbits in together and hoping for the best, as they will almost certainly fight, often injuring each other seriously, and opposite sex rabbits will breed out of control.

Pet rabbits must be neutered, so they do not breed, but also so they can live happily with at least one other rabbit, without fighting. Introductions must be done carefully and slowly and if you are unsure how to do this, you will need to speak to a professional. Check out our guide to how to stop rabbits fighting for more on this.

4. Rabbits do talk... 

… but not how you may think. Rabbits use a wide variety of body language and behaviors, as well as some verbal sounds, to communicate with other rabbits, and people, letting them know how they feel, very much like dogs do. Whilst we are often familiar with how dogs communicate with us, many of us do not know what our rabbits are trying to tell us. Observing your rabbits (and their rabbit noises) closely will enable you to watch how they behave and what they are saying. 

5. Rabbits need lots of space 

Rabbits are active and inquisitive animals. They need lots of space to enable them to exhibit normal behaviors. The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund, based in the UK, specifies that a pair of rabbits need a minimum space of 3m x 2m with a height of 1m at all times, although the bigger the better. Rabbits must never be locked up in hutches, but these can form part of a much larger environment, with access to come and go 24/7 as they please.

6. Rabbits can live in the house 

House rabbits are rabbits who live in the house, as you may expect a cat or dog to. However, rabbits can be destructive and you will need to know how to bunny-proof a room and keep your indoor rabbit safe, as well as protect your belongings. Even if you do have house rabbits, they still must have the company of another rabbit; human company is no substitute for that of another rabbit.

7. Their teeth never stop growing

With many species, including humans, dogs and cats, two sets of teeth occur during life. The deciduous teeth (baby teeth) which then fall out and are replaced by the adult teeth. If these are damaged or diseased and fall out, they will not regrow. Rabbits’ teeth are termed as ‘open rooted’, so continue to grow all their life and in fact, their front teeth (incisors) grow 2-3mm per week, with the back teeth (molars) growing 2-3mm per month. They have 28 permanent teeth. The correct diet, consisting of lots of hay and grass to graze on, is imperative to make sure their teeth wear down correctly.

8. A rabbit’s diet should be 85-90% grass and hay

The vast majority (85-90%) of a rabbit’s diet must be made up of grass and hay. As rabbits’ teeth grow all the time, the chewing action that hay and grass requires helps to wear them down as well as keeping their digestive system moving. Their digestive system is similar to a horse. They require a high fiber diet, which is constantly moving through the digestive system, and eating lots if hay and grass will provide this.

9. Rescue centers are full of rabbits

There are tens of thousands of rabbits in rescue centers; far more than there are currently good homes for. Many are handed into rescue because their owners do not understand their needs, or the owners’ personal circumstances change. If you are considering getting rabbits as part of your family, or have a single rabbit who is neutered, and you are looking for a companion for them, then contact your local rabbit rescue, who will be able to help and advise you on how to adopt a bunny.

10. Rabbits can live into their teens

There have been massive advances in rabbit knowledge and care over the last few decades. The UK-based Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund, and US-based House Rabbit Society have been instrumental in educating owners and improving welfare for pet rabbits. Advances in diet, housing, and vet care have all meant that nowadays we often see rabbits reaching their teenage years, so when you decide to adopt rabbits as pets, you need to make sure you take this into account and prepare to take care of them for many years to come.

11. Rabbits are not cheap to keep

Rabbits have a reputation for being cheap to keep but this could not be further from the truth. Rabbits need a large outdoor enclosure, which is warm, dry, and predator proof. If you keep rabbits as house rabbits, they need to have a large, safe area. The weekly feeding costs of pellets, hay, and fresh food, preventative health care, unexpected vet bills, which are similar, if not more than dogs and cats, and other items, such as litter trays, pet carrier, insurance, and toys really mount up.

12. They binky to show happiness 

Have you ever heard of a binky? These are leaps in the air when rabbits will run around, leap high in the air, often flicking their back legs out, turning 180 degrees at full speed. Bunny binkies is how rabbits show they are happy and want to ‘let off steam’. Seeing your rabbit’s binky shows they feel safe and happy, and it is a joy to see.

13. Rabbits have an excellent field of vision

Rabbits are a prey species and their senses are highly tuned to be able to spot danger at the earliest opportunity. Rabbits’ eyes are on the side of their head, giving then a near 360-degree field of vision. However, they do have two blind spots: one right in front of their nose and the other right behind their head.

If you place a treat right in front of your rabbit’s nose, they will not be able to see it; it is far better to place it to the side of them slightly, so they can see it and take it from you.

14. Routine vaccination is essential 

Just like dogs and cats, rabbits need regular veterinary checks and vaccinations in order to stay healthy. There are some serious and fatal viral diseases which pose a serious threat to your rabbits, even if they are house rabbits. Discuss with your vet what vaccinations your rabbit requires and make sure you keep up-to-date with their booster vaccines – immunity will not last forever. 

15. Rabbits spend most of their time eating 

Rabbits spend between 6-8 hours each day eating, and have a chewing action of around 120 times per minute. That is a lot of eating and chewing! We have already seen that rabbits need lots of hay and grass to eat to help ensure their teeth wear down and their digestive system stays healthy, but all the eating and chewing that rabbits undertake, when eating hay and grass, also helps prevent boredom, and chewing on inappropriate items, such as those within their enclosure or your house.

16. Rabbits can move their ears independently 

Their ears can move independently of each other, which enables them to pick up sounds from different directions at the same time. This is very useful for a prey animal, as they need to be aware of potential dangers at the earliest opportunity, to give them the best chance of escape.

Rabbits with lop ears can still move their ears, but not as much as rabbits whose ears point upwards. Lop eared rabbits also have some hearing impairment, and as they do not hear sounds so well, they can be startled more easily.

17. You can litter train rabbits 

Rabbits are clean animals and will readily use a litter tray for urination and to deposit their droppings. However, baby rabbits and those not neutered may not fully understand what a litter tray is and even rabbits who reliably use one may still leave the odd dropping outside of the litter tray. Rabbits who use litter trays and then suddenly start to pass urine or leave more droppings outside of the tray, may be suffering from a medical problem, so it is important to take your rabbit to see your vet as soon as possible. For advice on how to select litters trays for your rabbits, take a look at our guide to how to litter box train a rabbit.

18. They eat their droppings 

Although not all of them! Rabbits produce two types of droppings; their hard fecal pellets are the waste products, and healthy rabbits will produce 200-300+ of these spherical droppings each day. They do not eat these droppings but do eat the smaller, softer ones, which look like little blackberries. These caecotrophs are full of nutrients and enable the rabbit to digest some of their food twice, getting maximum nutrients. The caecotrophs droppings are eaten directly from the rabbit’s bottom, as they are produced, so you should rarely see these and if you are seeing them often or seeing lots of them this can mean there is a problem with your rabbit’s diet or their health. In this case you should speak to your vet. 

19. Rabbits enjoy clicker training 

Rabbits are very intelligent and it is possible to clicker train them and train them to understand commands, such as ‘come’, ‘stay’, ‘touch’ etc. Clicker training is a fantastic, reward-based way to train your rabbits. You must never punish your rabbit as that will scare them. Be patient, be kind, and your rabbit will quickly understand what you are trying to get them to do. 

20. Many hate to be picked up 

Rabbits like to have all four feet firmly on the ground at all times. The vast majority of rabbits do not like being picked up, and if you think about it, you can understand why. In the wild, rabbits only get ‘picked up’ when they have been captured by one of the many predators that prey upon rabbits. Although pet rabbits are not wild, they do retain many of their wild instincts and being picked up by a person is the same to a pet rabbit as being picked up by a predator is for a wild rabbit. Only handle your rabbit when necessary for health checking, medicating, or when grooming with one of the best rabbit brushes.

21. Hold off the carrots 

Everyone is aware of the association of feeding rabbits carrots, but carrots are not healthy for rabbits. Carrots are high in sugar, something rabbits cannot easily digest and too much sugar in the diet can not only lead to weight gain, but can seriously upset their sensitive digestive system. A small piece of carrot (no bigger than an inch in size), can be fed as a very occasional treat, but should not be fed regularly, in larger quantities, or as a staple part of their diet. Instead, look to feed healthy fresh foods: herbs (parsley, coriander, mint, basil), greens, broccoli and check out these five dos and don’ts of feeding rabbits correctly. 

22. Pet rabbits will die in the wild 

Although pet rabbits do share many of their wild counterparts’ behaviors, as we have already seen that they do not like being picked up, pet rabbits will not survive in the wild, so must never be released or let loose. Pet rabbits are not able to dig out sufficient warrens to live in, do not have access to family groups for protection and company, are not able to source enough food to live off, and many, particularly those breeds who do not resemble wild rabbits, are easily picked off by predators, as they are so visible. Never release pet rabbits into the wild. If you really cannot look after your rabbits any longer, contact a rescue center to see if they are able to assist you.

23. They cannot vomit

Rabbits are unable to vomit. They have a strong cardiac sphincter (muscle) that sits at the top of the stomach, preventing them from vomiting. This means when your rabbit has an anesthetic for any reason, they should not be starved, as there is no risk that they will vomit when anaesthetized (unlike cats, dogs and humans). It also means that if your rabbit eats something dangerous, such as a foreign object, or something poisonous then they cannot be made to vomit. In these situations, you must always contact your vet for advice straight away.

24. Rabbits are strict herbivores 

Rabbits do not eat meat of any kind; they are strict herbivores but do eat a variety of different plants. Never offer your rabbit meat of any variety. Their digestive system is not adapted to digest meat and offering this to them, which they may eat, can make them very ill. 

25. Rabbits prefer to forage for their food, rather than eat from a bowl 

We often think that we should offer food to rabbits in a bowl as this is a lot cleaner, but rabbits are natural grazers and foragers, and as such like to eat off the floor, sniffing for food as they go. If we offer food in a bowl, this takes away the opportunity to forage, and means rabbits will eat their food a lot quicker and may choke on in. Instead of offering food in a bowl, scatter it around their area or in a pile of hay and let them sniff and dig out the food. This will provide them with enrichment and also means they are getting some exercise at the same time.

26. They like hiding places which have more than one entrance

In the wild, rabbit warrens are vast, with many different chambers, entrances, and exists. Having more than one way to escape is a safety measure. If a predator comes into the warren, there is another way out for the rabbits, and pet rabbits feel the same way. Therefore, try to use boxes with more than one entrance/exit cut out, so your rabbits feel safe and can rest inside them.

27. Rabbits can cause serious injury to another rabbit if they haven’t been bonded properly

As a social species, rabbits need the company of at least one other rabbit, with both rabbits being neutered, but you cannot just put two rabbits in together and expect them to live happily. Rabbits are territorial animals and will defend their territory from another rabbit, often with serious and potentially fatal fighting. Bonding rabbits takes time and patience. If you are unsure how to undertake bonding, The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (UK) or House Rabbit Society (US) have advice. 

28. They use scent glands under their chin to claim objects as theirs 

There is a scent gland under the chin of both male and female rabbits, both neutered and those who are not, which they rub along items they wish to claim as their own. This leaves a scent that other rabbits can smell, but is odorless to humans and won’t damage your belongings. Often one rabbit will scent an item, and another rabbit will come along and scent over the top of it to mark as theirs! Rabbits will scent mark many different items, including chairs, bowls, beds, litter trays, table legs… pretty much anything! So, if you see your rabbits rubbing their chin on an item, it isn’t to stop an itch, but to scent the item.

29. Rabbits enjoy throwing around toys 

You may have noticed when you clean your rabbits out, they like to toss the dustpan and brush around or try to move their litter trays. Rabbits like to throw toys around and so providing your rabbits with safe toys, which they cannot chew through and digestive small parts of, gives them lots of enrichment.

30. You can microchip rabbits 

It is a wise idea to microchip your rabbits. Since many will live outside and it is possible for them to escape their enclosure and your garden, having your rabbits microchipped will help reunite them, if the worst should happen. A microchip is implanted into the loose skin at the back of the neck and can be done with the rabbit awake or may be undertaken when your rabbit is being neutered or under anesthetic for another reason. Your vet is the best person to discuss this with. 

31. They're crepuscular

Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning that they are active during dawn and dusk and are less active during daylight and nighttime hours. This is another reason why it is so important for your rabbits to have access to a large enclosure 24 hours a day, rather than just when it is convenient for their owner to let them out. If they have a separate run and hutch, they will invariably spend their most active hours closed into a hutch, where they are unable to express normal behavior patterns, such as digging, foraging, binkying, chewing, and grazing. 

32. Rabbits are prolific breeders 

Rabbits are only pregnant for 28-31 days and often have litters of over five babies each time. They can become pregnant straight after giving birth, if there is an entire male rabbit in the enclosure, so it is easy to see how numbers can get out of hand quickly. Always neuter your rabbits, so they can not breed and if you are unsure what sex your rabbits are, take them to your vet to be sexed correctly.

If you're a bunny lover, why not celebrate International Rabbit Day.

Are rabbits herbivores? If you’re about to welcome a floppy-eared friend into your family and have already invested in one of the best rabbit hutches  and a few toys, the next thing you’re going to want to learn is what to feed your bunny for optimal health and wellbeing.

Rabbits are indeed herbivores, which means their bodies have been designed to eat vegetables and herbs. That’s not to say that they’ll become terribly ill from accidentally ingesting the odd small piece of meat from time to time, but for your bunny to thrive, a plant-based diet is essential.

When it comes to the do's and don'ts of feeding rabbits correctly, sticking to plant and herb materials is vital for several reasons. Not only does all that crunching on fibrous vegetables help them to shed their teeth, but their gastrointestinal tract has not been designed to process large amounts of protein, meaning a plant-based diet is essential for their digestive health.

Below, we reveal everything you need to know about your herbivorous fur friend, including the health issues that can occur from improper feeding and exactly what their diet needs to entail to keep them functioning at their physical best. Let's take a look....

Are rabbits herbivores?

Rabbits are obligate herbivores which means they must consume a strict plant-based diet. The reason for this is that rabbits require a lot of fiber in their diet to help them wear down their four front teeth which are continually growing. Fibrous foods provide the roughage they need to achieve this.

From an evolutionary perspective, there’s also another reason that rabbits have always been herbivores and that’s to do with the role it plays in their survival. For rabbits living in the wild, consuming plant-based foods allows them to eat out in the open where they can keep an eye out for predators. 

Hay, plants and herbs are also much lighter in their stomach than protein-rich foods, allowing them to move quickly if they detect a threat. So, as you can see, being a herbivore is an adaptive strategy that ensures our floppy-eared friends have the best change of staying alive. 

Can rabbits eat meat?

If your rabbit consumes a tiny sliver of bacon or other kind of meat, rest assured that while it may cause stomach issues, it’s unlikely to do them any serious harm. It’s not that these foods are immediately toxic to rabbits, but that their digestive systems aren’t designed to break down the higher protein content found in meat. 

Rabbits in the wild will eat meat when they’re starving and need to stay alive, however it’s important you don’t deliberately feed your own bunny meat as their inability to digest it can make them ill and cause health issues. 

Small amounts of meat consumed accidentally can cause minor problems, such as loose stools, but excess amounts of animal products on a regular basis can be fatal. Always stick to plants for your bunny and you’ll ensure they get the nutrients they need to thrive.

Potential health problems from improper feeding

Good nutrition is crucial when it comes to maintaining your bunny’s health with improper feeding being one of the most common causes of disease in pet rabbits. Here are some health issues that can arise if your floppy-eared friend is not fed the correct diet:

1. Enteritis - A result of eating too many carbohydrates, enteritis causes the intestines to become inflamed and if left untreated, it can develop into enterotoxemia, a disease of the kidneys that’s triggered by high levels of pathogenic bacteria.
2. Gastrointestinal ileus - If your rabbit gets too little fiber or too many carbohydrates another potential problem is gastrointestinal ileus, a potentially deadly condition where the digestive system slows down or stops working completely.
3. Dental disease - Your rabbit’s teeth are continuously growing and the only way for them to keep their chompers at the proper height and shape is to do a lot of chewing. Plenty of hay is vital to ensure their teeth stay in tip-top condition.
4. Hairballs - For rabbits that aren’t getting enough hay and other plant-based materials, hairballs are common. Rabbits groom themselves frequently and consuming adequate hay and other plant foods high in fiber helps to move the hair through the digestive tract so that it can be eliminated.
5. Pregnancy toxemia - Pregnant or lactating rabbits who do not get the nutrients they need from plant-based foods can go into a state of ketosis, which can result in seizures and death.
6. Urinary stones - A diet that’s high in calcium (from animal-based products) can cause what’s known as sludge in the urinary bladder which can lead to stones and calcification of the kidneys.

As you can see, poor nutrition is responsible for a wide range of health conditions in rabbits that are far less likely to occur when they’re fed a proper diet that contains the correct ratio of vitamins and minerals that their bodies need. You can do that by offering the best food for rabbits.

What to feed a rabbit

Being obligate herbivores, your bunny’s daily diet should consist mainly of hay, greens, a small amount of fruit and plenty of water. Even with plant-based foods, which are what your rabbit is designed to eat, it’s always a good idea to monitor the introduction of any new fruit or vegetable to ensure your bunny is able to tolerate it.

To help ensure you’re feeding your rabbit the right diet, here’s a list of plant-based foods that are suitable for your bunny to consume: 

• Hay - The healthiest choice when it comes to a staple food to have in your bunny’s diet is hay. Timothy, orchard grass, oat hay, or a mixture are all suitable options. Unless your rabbit is pregnant, lactating or a growing youngster, steer clear of alfalfa hay, which is high in calcium and can cause health issues.
• Greens - The rule of thumb with greens is to offer your rabbit one cup per two to three pounds of body weight. Include a good mix to supply a wide range of nutrients - think spinach, romaine lettuce, kale, mustard greens, peppermint leaves, radish and carrot tops, collard greens, dandelion greens and cilantro. Make sure all greens are pesticide-free and because the darker the green the higher in calcium it is, feed these less often than lighter greens.
• Fruits and vegetables - You can offer around one tablespoon daily of fruits or vegetables per two to three pounds of body weight to add variety into your bunny’s diet. Strawberries, blueberries and raspberries are all suitable, as are things like kiwifruit, pineapple, peaches and pears.

For more information on particular foods and whether they are suitable for your rabbit to consume, you may find the following articles helpful:

• Can rabbits eat tomatoes?
• Can rabbits eat celery?
• Can rabbits eat pumpkin?
• Can rabbits eat broccoli?

Keeping a bunny inside your home with one of the best indoor rabbit hutches, cages or enclosures, rather than outside, has grown in popularity in recent times.

Keeping your rabbit inside makes it easier to spend time with them, keep them warm in the winter and cool in the summer, and protect them from predators and parasites. Plus, if you follow our tips on how to litter box train a rabbit and use one of the best rabbit litter boxes, it will make cleaning quicker and easier, too.

When choosing which setup is best for your rabbit, your priority should be to make sure that it’s big enough. Many hutches on the market are far too small and rabbits need lots of space. A hutch should be at least three times the length of your rabbit (when he’s laid out), twice the width and tall enough for him to stand up. For the average rabbit, this is around 4ft x 2ft x 2ft – but you can always go bigger! And don’t forget, they should have more space available to them throughout the day.

One of the best kinds of indoor rabbit setup is actually similar to some of the best puppy playpens. This type of enclosure (sometimes referred to as an X-pen) gives your rabbit more space, is cheaper, and keeps your rabbit out of trouble. While they might need some adjustments or additional flooring, you can almost always make these changes.

The quick list

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The best indoor rabbit hutches 2026

Best X-pen

This X-pen is really versatile in the sense that you can make it any shape you like – and if you’ve got a rabbit who likes to escape, you can easily increase the height. The door is an excellent addition (not all X-pens come with a door panel) as it means you don’t have to lift your bunnies in and out for free roaming.

The wire panels prevent chewing, while the translucent panels give your rabbits the feeling of protection.

Built as the image shows gives you 4ft x 2ft floor space, with a covered area that you could put the litter tray and hay in for a feeling of security, so in order to give your bunnies enough space (if this is their only space) you’ll need to order two packs. It’s easy to build – you just join the panels together using connectors and then secure with cable ties.

This is one of my favourite setups – it doesn’t include a base, but there’s really no need for one. I have mine set up on an old rug.

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Best indoor cage

Cages do not allow your bunny as much freedom as a playpen, but in some cases they are still the best option – especially if you’ve got a chewer.

I wouldn’t suggest selecting any smaller than the XL or XXL as your bunny simply won’t have enough room. This particular cage also includes a hay feeder, water bottle, feeding bowl and elevated feeding area, which your rabbit can hide under, so it’s got everything you need to get started straightaway.

While I no longer use this cage regularly, I’ve found it’s really handy to have when my rabbit stays with friends while I’m on vacation. It’s easier to transport than some playpen setups, and it makes it easy for them to shut my rabbits away at night. I also used to use it with a rabbit I had called Miffy, who was a real nightmare for getting into places that she shouldn’t and chewing everything.

It’s easy to set up and the raised sides of the base mean very little mess escapes – and it’s really easy to keep clean.

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Best wooden indoor rabbit hutch

If you’re going to get a wooden hutch then it needs to be large – and bear in mind that additional storeys do not count towards the minimum space requirements. Wooden-style hutches look smart and are often used outdoors. This particular one is designed for indoor use, but could be wheeled outside in good weather.

This hutch is great as it gives your rabbit somewhere to hide in the upstairs section, allowing more space for stretching downstairs. The wheels make it easy to move around for cleaning around it and relocation, while the plastic base trays can be pulled out for easy cleaning of the hutch itself, too.

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Best X-pen with floor

This X-pen comes with 24 panels that can be set up in a wide range of different ways to fit your space. It comes with a PVC-lined waterproof mat as standard, too, but bear in mind that this will only cover this whole base if you set it up as displayed.

This pack includes a selection of wire and plastic panels so that you can make a second level – if you don’t want to do this or your rabbit isn’t keen, you can use the plastic panels to extend the size of your pen instead.

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Best metal playpen

This Amazon Basics playpen is very quick and easy to set up and can be adjusted in shape to fit nicely in your area.

There are a selection of sizes and some include a doorway, which allows your bunny to easily roam a larger space when you’re supervising. It’s not the most pleasing to look at, but it’s a great chew-proof option. Plus, if you want to take your rabbits outside in the good weather, you can use this in the garden with a board on top to keep out the sun and predators.

I’ve used this playpen when bonding new rabbits together – it is a great barrier to keep them separate at first, but can also be used as a small "dating pen" when getting to know each other.

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Best plastic playpen

This plastic puppy playpen is great for smaller animals, too. It has a door for easy daytime roaming access, plus you can add more panels if you want to expand and give your bunny more space.

The pen is available in black or white, so you can match your decor to a point, and it has rubber feet that protect flooring.

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Best hideaway for indoor rabbit hutch

This hideaway is a great place to hide a litter tray and contain the hay as well as giving your bunnies somewhere to hide in peace.

The roof opens for easy cleaning access, while the waterproof rubber feet keep it protected and level if you need to take it outside. The elevated design promotes air circulation and protects your pet from ground chills, which is ideal if they live in your garage or on tiled flooring.

I use one of these if my bunnies are roaming in the garden during the day – it gives them somewhere to hide away if they get scared and it blends in nicely without the need for an enormous outdoor hutch.

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Best plastic X-pen

This X-pen is available in three slightly different panel sizes. You can make it into all sorts of configurations to suit your bunny’s needs – the only downside is that it doesn’t have a door for easy roaming access, but if you make it large enough your bunny won’t need to roam elsewhere.

Most users won’t need to use the square panels as a base, although it can give your floor added protection under a rug or carpet cut off. The square panels can, instead, be used to give more height if you need it.

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Best wire X-pen

This basic wire X-pen allows your bunny a better view than the fully plastic ones. With the varying panel and pack sizes available for this X-pen, the world is your oyster when it comes to designing your rabbit setup – you can easily make it as large as you like!

It’s designed with narrow rectangular holes to ensure your pet doesn’t get stuck and is super-easy to put together – simply slot the panels into the connectors and secure with cable ties for increased stability.

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How we chose the best indoor rabbit hutches

To compile our list of the best indoor rabbit hutches, I primarily considered space and safety. I’ve been keeping rabbits indoors for almost a decade and have tried every kind of setup, including most in the list above.

I understand that everyone will have different setup and space available, so have included a range from cages, and hutches to X-pens and playpens. Over the years, I’ve also found that some rabbits do better in different setups – and some can be trusted to free roam a lot more than others.

All of the setups in this guide either meet the minimum space requirements as they are or have the ability to be expanded and adapted so that they do.

How to choose an indoor rabbit hutch

Bunnies have made a comeback as a pet over the last few years, and more people than ever are opting to keep them indoors instead of in an outdoor hutch. Before grabbing that indoor hutch you have saved in your cart, there are a few things to consider.

Size

It’s really important for your rabbit’s quality of life that they have enough space to be comfortable. You’ll find that most indoor rabbit hutches available are generally smaller than the best outdoor rabbit hutches, but unless they meet the size requirements they’re not suitable. Some do allow you to purchase extensions, while others need to be used in conjunction with one of the best rabbit runs if your rabbit will not be able to roam indoors.

Vet Joanna Woodnutt says that as a bare minimum, an indoor rabbit hutch should be large enough to allow your rabbit to stand and stretch, and your rabbit should be able to hop three paces without having to turn.

"But this is assuming that your rabbit will spend most of the day out of their hutch roaming around, only returning for night hours. If your bunny doesn’t have access to roam, the RWAF recommends 10ft x 6ft of ground space, with 3ft of height, if your rabbit will be confined for any daylight hours."

Even if you have a small rabbit, they grow fast, so it’s better to invest in a larger hutch that will still be able to accommodate them even when they grow older.

Materials

Common materials are plastic, wood and metal. Keep in mind the practicality – although a wooden design may be more attractive, it can attract chewing from your bunny and can absorb toilet smells if they’re not trained to use a litter tray. Plastic or metal cages are often more affordable and are easier to clean.

Flooring material is also key. Avoid wire flooring or cover it with a better supportive material to make it more comfortable. Hutches that feature trays or have a fully enclosed base help to keep it clean, while if you have a baseless pen, your rabbit will appreciate something soft (like carpet) to help them get around.

Extras

Dr Woodnutt says the features of your indoor rabbit hutch will depend on how often you intend to let your bunnies out. She also points out that rabbits should live in pairs, so whichever hutch you decide on should ideally be large enough for two.

Of course, you'll also want to make sure you have space for any enriching upgrades to your bunnies space, such as matting, bedding, litter trays, toys and hiding areas, too.

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How often should you clean an indoor hutch?

According to Dr Woodnutt, "Traditional indoor rabbit hutches will need cleaning at least weekly, and more often if your rabbits are not neutered or toilet trained. They’ll also need cleaning more often if your rabbit is confined to a smaller area – a dedicated room is often easier to keep clean than a small cage!".

If you litter train your rabbit, emptying the litter tray regularly in addition to a quick weekly area clean will go a long way to reducing smell – and it will reduce the cleaning time, too. Opting for one of the best rabbit litters will also make more difference than you might think – especially when it comes to odor – and there’s a lot of variation when it comes to how absorbent they are. For more tips, here’s some advice on how to clean a rabbit cage.

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Where is best to put an indoor rabbit hutch?

Dr Woodnutt says your hutch will need to be put somewhere with an even temperature – not too warm or cold. Avoid areas that heat up in summer and get very cold in winter, as these extremes of temperature can be dangerous for rabbits. Consider the flooring and how easy it will be to let your rabbits out for exercise. You should also make sure it’s out of reach of hazards, such as electric cables.

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Rabbit noises can be difficult to interpret, but did you know that your rabbits ‘speak’ both verbally (with sounds) and by using body language? Some rabbit noises can be subtle and easy to miss, especially if we are not aware of them, but others are more obvious.

It is important to understand what your rabbits are communicating to you, and what their noises mean, so you know when they are happy, fearful, in pain, or unhappy about something. 

Unsuitable housing can cause rabbits to be unhappy and rabbits will be miserable if they are confined to a cage or hutch. The best indoor rabbit hutches allow access for the rabbits to go in and out of the cage at all times and they should never be shut inside.

• Do rabbits bite? Understanding why your bunny bites
• Housing rabbits: choosing the perfect accommodation
• How to stop rabbits fighting

Purring

Rabbit purring is different from the purring sound that cats make. When cats purr, we hear an obvious rattling sound, whereas rabbits purr by softly grinding their teeth – almost a cross between a chewing action and teeth chattering. This means the rabbit is content and happy. 

Rabbits might purr like this when they are being stroked in a favorite place or being groomed by a companion rabbit. It is important not to confuse tooth purring with tooth grinding, as the two mean very different things.

Grinding teeth

Rabbits grind their teeth (bruxism) when they are in pain. Teeth grinding is often accompanied by other ways of communicating pain, such as sitting hunched up, not eating, or eating less, passing fewer or no droppings, having a bloated abdomen, and being uninterested in their surroundings and companion. When rabbits grind their teeth, they grate them together. 

A common reason for tooth grinding is abdominal pain, caused by gastrointestinal stasis, whereby the digestive system slows down or stops. Always make sure you are feeding rabbits correctly – 85 percent of their diet should consist of grass and hay, while 10 percent should come from fresh herbs and greens, and the remaining five percent from good quality pellets. This is one of the best ways to help avoid gastrointestinal stasis.

If you hear your rabbit make a tooth grinding sound, you must take them to your vet straight away, even if there are no other obvious signs.

Growling

Rabbits growl and grunt in an attempt to defend themselves or their territory and as a way of expressing they are not happy about something. If you have ever thought, do rabbits bite? then the answer is yes, they do, and often this will be accompanied by growling when they are protecting themselves or something else. 

They may growl and bite another rabbit, especially during failed bonding attempts or if the two rabbits are not familiar with each other. They will also growl, lunge, and bite their owners. This behavior is more common in female rabbits that have not been spayed but can be exhibited by either males or females and those who are neutered or entire.

Thumping

Rabbits have large, powerful back legs and feet, and thump their back feet on the ground to warn other rabbits of potential danger, or when they are annoyed at something. The thumping of a foot is often followed by all the rabbits in the area running for cover. 

Follow our guidance on housing rabbits to ensure you offer your rabbits safe and secure housing that meets their physical and behavioral needs and protects them from potential predators.

Screaming

Rabbits scream when they are in extreme fear or pain and it is a truly awful sound to hear. It is often heard when rabbits are caught by a predator or when handled roughly or incorrectly, especially if they are not used to being handled. 

If a rabbit screams, they are at serious risk of suffering from a heart attack, so it is important never to startle your rabbits, always handle them carefully and only when necessary. If they do scream, stop what is being done to them immediately.

Humming and honking

If your rabbit runs around humming and sounding like a bee, this means they are in love with whatever it is they are running around. This is more often seen in male rabbits that have not been castrated. Providing games for rabbits, with lots of enrichment and things to do, may also evoke this behavior.

Whimpering

A whimpering sound may be heard when your rabbit is displeased or worried about something. Many rabbits also make a squeaking or whimpering sound when they are eating their caecotroph dropping. 

Summary

Rabbits make many noises, and some can sound similar to others, but mean very different things. If we understand what our rabbits are telling us, it helps us to resolve problems and know what makes our rabbits happy.

Rabbit binkying, also affectionately known as "bunny binkies," are one of many different behaviors rabbits exhibit to demonstrate how they feel. They can communicate with us by, for example, showing signs that they feel scared, happy, relaxed, or interested in something, and understanding what your rabbits are saying is important to ensure you give them the best quality of life possible.

Many of these behaviors are only possible if rabbits are given adequate environmental space. The best indoor rabbit hutches allow rabbits to take at least 3 consecutive hops, stand on their hind legs and lie at full stretch. They must be open 24 hours a day, allowing the rabbits access to a larger area. 

When housing rabbits outside, remember their enclosure needs to be at least 3m x 2m x 1m high. Hutches can be used, but must be viewed as a ‘resting’ area, with access to a large enclosure at all times.

• Do rabbits bite? Understanding rabbit biting and how to avoid it

What is a binky? 

Binkying is when rabbits leap into the air, sometimes from a standstill and sometimes whilst running. They flick their back legs and head, in order to kick their back legs out. They may run around at full speed in-between binkying, and can perform a 180 degree turn mid-binky!  

What does it mean when a rabbit is binkying? 

Rabbits binky when they are happy, relaxed, feel safe and want to let off some steam. It is also thought to be a ‘practice run’, for if they needed to escape from a predator.

Some rabbits may perform the behavior if they know their favorite treat is on the way, or if they have access to a new grazing area in their enclosure, others may do it for no apparent reason, but it is nothing to worry about and a sign your rabbits are feeling fantastic.

Do rabbits binky in the wild? 

Yes, rabbits do binky in the wild; it is a natural behaviour for them, and as wild rabbits face far greater risk of predation than our pet rabbits do, the behavior of binkying, in order to perfect the art of escape, makes sense. 

Rabbits are crepuscular (most active in dim light, at dawn and dusk), so this would be the time you would most likely observe binkying in wild rabbits. 

Why has my rabbit stopped binkying? 

As rabbits binky when they are happy and relaxed, a rabbit who has stopped binkying may feel scared, threatened, lonely, in pain or ill:

1. Physical impairment

The first thing to do is to get your rabbit checked out by a veterinary surgeon, to make sure they is no physical reason, such as pain in the hips or spine, or pododermatitis (sore hocks), which would make it difficult and painful for a rabbit to binky.

2. Loneliness

If your vet gives your rabbit the all clear, then consider other reasons. Have they recently lost a companion rabbit? If this is the case, then a new companion should be considered as soon as possible. 

Contact your local rescue center to see what suitable rabbits are available, and they may also be able to help with bonding the rabbits together, since this should only be undertaken by experienced individuals.

3. Change in environment

Have you changed your rabbits’ environment? It may be that they are taking their time getting used to the changes and once they feel happier and secure, the binkies should start again. If any predators, such as foxes or cats, have visited your garden, your rabbits will feel threatened and may stop binkying.

4. Incorrect diet

In order to feel happy and healthy, you must make sure you are correctly feeding rabbits, since a rabbit that is fed an incorrect diet is likely to suffer with digestive problems, obesity and other health concerns. 

One sign of an incorrect diet is when rabbits don't eat their caecotroph droppings. You can find out more about this in our do rabbits eat their poop? guide. 

How to encourage binkying 

Make sure your rabbits have ample space and enrichment in their environment. There are lots of games for rabbits you might not have considered which can help to keep them both mentally and physically stimulated. Always ensure they have a companion rabbit, as rabbits rely upon another rabbit for company and to help them feel safe. 

Know what makes your rabbits happy – it may be certain toys, herbs to eat, freshly picked dandelions, a certain type of hay or something else, but knowing these little things will mean your rabbits are more likely to demonstrate behaviours of happiness, including binkying.

Summary

It is a delight to see rabbits binky. It shows us that our rabbits are happy, not only in themselves, but also within their environment. If you haven’t seen your rabbits binky, then think about what improvements you may be able to make to encourage them to do so. 

If you're considering welcoming a new pet bunny into your life, you may wonder do rabbit bite, especially if you have young children in your family who may want to play with their new pet 24/7. 

When considering rabbit biting, we first need to think about their teeth. Rabbits have 28 teeth and, like human babies, kittens and puppies, they have deciduous (baby) teeth that fall out to make way for their adult teeth. However, this usually happens before they are born, or shortly after, so normally we are not aware these deciduous teeth exist.

All their teeth are ‘open rooted’, so continue to grow throughout their life. The large, sharp incisor teeth at the front of their mouth grow 2-3mm per week, while their molars (chewing teeth) grow 2-3mm per month. This is one reason why a diet high in grass and hay, which require lots of chewing, is essential as it helps to wear the teeth down.

Why would a rabbit bite you?

Rabbits may bite to defend themselves if they feel scared or threatened. They often bite other rabbits during a fight and are capable of inflicting deep wounds on each other. They can also injure humans and other animals, such as guinea pigs, which is one reason they must never live or even socialise with them.

Rabbits are more likely to bite if they are kept in an inappropriate environment that is too small, with no place to hide, and lacking mental and physical stimulation opportunities.

If you keep rabbits in the house, remember that indoor rabbit hutches are not big enough for them to be shut into and they must have 24/7 access to a larger area. The best indoor rabbit hutches have access that allows rabbits to come and go freely, retreating into them when they choose.

Why do rabbits bite your clothes?

Most rabbits do not like being handled and may bite to indicate they want to be put back down on the floor. In this case, they will bite the clothing of the handler, or any exposed skin. 

Wild rabbits are only ever picked up by a predator – usually a fatal event – so, no matter how friendly our pet rabbits are, they may perceive the sensation of being picked up in the same way and respond by biting.

Rabbits may also tug at our clothes with their teeth simply for food or attention.

Why do rabbits bite their cage?

Rabbits may bite at the bars and wire of their cage due to frustration and boredom. They might perform this behavior, as well as chewing their cage, in an attempt to escape, pass the time, or reach something beyond the cage.

When housing rabbits, it is important to ensure that their enclosure has a footprint of at least 3m x 2m, and to provide lots of games for rabbits, enrichment and opportunities to dig, graze, hide, play, run, rest, and chew. These are natural behaviors for rabbits and having both mental and physical stimulation prevents boredom.

Do rabbits bite hard?

Most of the time, rabbits nip rather than inflict full bites, but this depends on why they are biting. If they feel scared, threatened, or are fighting with another rabbit, then they can bite hard, drawing blood and inflicting some nasty, deep wounds. If you do get bitten, it is best to speak to your doctor.

Tips to prevent bites

• Avoid picking rabbits up unless it is absolutely necessary, such as for checking their health or medication, and when you do handle them, make sure this is done carefully, gently, and with plenty of support for their hindquarters. You can sit on the floor to interact with your rabbits and allow them to come to you and sit on your lap for attention, if they choose to.
• Neutering of both sexes helps to prevent hormonally-driven frustration, especially in female rabbits, so neutering should be performed on all rabbits. This also means rabbits can live together (once bonded properly), with less chance of fighting. Neutering should be performed from three months of age for males and four months for females, before hormones begin to heighten.
• Never corner or chase your rabbits, as this will make them scared and likely to bite you.

How rabbits use their teeth to chew

As rabbits’ teeth grow throughout their life, it is important they wear them down with the correct diet. When rabbits chew hay and grass, they move their jaw in both a horizontal and vertical pattern, wearing down all parts of the teeth. 

Hay and grass require a lot of chewing, so this increases the time spent keeping teeth trimmed. No other food, including pellets or greens, mimics this chewing action, which is one reason why when feeding rabbits, hay and grass should form 85 percent of their diet.  

Rabbits whose teeth don’t grow properly could suffer from an increased risk of dental disease. This can be a lifelong problem that may also shorten their lifespan.

Summary

Rabbits bite to defend themselves when they are scared. Often, owners see this as aggressive behavior, but it is their way of communicating they are not happy about something. To avoid being bitten, make sure your rabbits have a suitable enclosure and only handle them when absolutely necessary.

Do rabbits eat their poop? If you’ve got a bunny, you might have noticed them doing this strange behavior and wondered if it’s normal. After all, it’s the last thing we humans would want to do.

Every day, a healthy rabbit will produce more than 300 round fecal poops, which is why it’s important to have the best rabbit litter box and know how to clean a rabbit cage – and even better, how to litter box train your rabbit.

There are two different types of bunny poop that you should know about; caecotrophs (which you don’t want) and fecal poop (which you do). Fecal poops are spherical and you should be able to crush one between your fingers. The color depends on what they’re eating and will be paler if they eat more hay and darker if they eat more grass.

If you want to learn why rabbits eat their poop, how often they do it, and the difference between these two types, keep on reading. Expert vet nurse Claire Speight has answered all your questions below:

Why do rabbits eat their poop?

The copious amounts of spherical fecal poops that are produced each day are the waste products and are not supposed to be eaten by the rabbits.

However, the caecotroph droppings, which look very different from the fecal poops, are rich in nutrients and essential vitamins and minerals. Caecotrophs look like brown raspberries and have a very pungent smell. They are sticky and soft, unlike the faecal poops that are produced.

All rabbits should eat their caecotroph droppings, so in fact you should never actually see them. If they aren’t being eaten, it could be due to one of several reasons, which we’ll explore below. To ensure they do eat their caecotroph droppings, making sure they have the right environment can really help.

When you think about housing rabbits, consider where to place their litter trays. Rabbits are clean animals and like to have designated areas with litter trays in which to pass urine and fecal poops. This helps to keep their environment clean and makes it easier to clean their enclosure.

Remember their enclosure needs to be at least 3m x 2m x 1m high and have lots of games for rabbits, including hides, tunnels, foraging and grazing opportunities, places to sleep, dig and run around; they should always have another rabbit as a companion. All these factors help to keep rabbits happy and healthy, and therefore more likely to continue eating their caecotrophs!

Here's what fecal poop looks like:

How often do rabbits eat their poop?

Rabbits eat their caecotrophs whenever they are passed. They eat them directly from their rectum so they never actually touch the ground. If you see your rabbits reaching round to their bottom area, and then chewing on something, chances are they are eating their caecotrophs!

Maybe you are thinking are rabbits nocturnal? And therefore do they eat them at night? Well, no, rabbits are crepuscular, so are most active at dawn and dusk, but will eat their caecotrophs throughout the day and night, particularly when they feel relaxed or when it’s quiet, which is often during the night.

Why might rabbits not eat their poop?

If you see caecotrophs squashed on the floor of your rabbits’ enclosure, stuck to their feet or stuck around their tail and back end, you need to investigate why they are not being eaten. There are several possible reasons for this:

1. Incorrect diet

Rabbits who are overfed on pellets or muesli (muesli should not be fed to rabbits), and those who don’t eat enough hay/grass, often don’t eat their caecotrophs, as they are full or may produce too many of them.

When feeding rabbits it is important to make sure they are fed correctly and not overfed on even the best rabbit food, which should only make up 5% of their overall daily food allowance (1 level tablespoon per kilogram of ideal bodyweight, per day). Make sure they have a constant supply of fresh, good quality hay to eat, which should make up 85% of their diet, and a selection of fresh greens and herbs.

An incorrect diet often goes hand-in-hand with rabbits becoming overweight, which is another reason why rabbits don’t eat their caecotrophs, as they are unable to reach around to their bottom area to eat them.

2. Medical causes

If the rabbit has any spinal, hip, hind leg, neck or dental pain then it may be too painful for them to reach around to collect and eat the caecotrophs. Stress can also stop rabbits from consuming their caecotrophs, particularly if there are predators in their environment (more likely if rabbits are kept outdoors) or a lack of places to hide.

Rabbits that have caecotrophs stuck around their tail and back end are at risk of flystrike, so it is important to speak to your vet and ascertain the cause and address it, which may mean a change of diet, weight loss plan, diagnostics, such as x-rays, dental exam, or other vet treatment.

It is important that rabbits eat their caecotrophs, as without them their digestive system does not function properly, and other health problems may result. Make sure your rabbits’ environment allows them to safely eat them, and their diet is correct.

You might also enjoy reading: What do rabbits need in their cage? In this feature, we’ve created a complete checklist for you to follow. Or, to shop for the best rabbit toys, check out this buying guide.

Getting your hands on one of the best rabbit brushes will help keep your bunny tangle and mat-free. Like most pets, rabbits tend to shed hair, which makes grooming a rabbit an important part of rabbit care. Rabbits are naturally very clean little creatures who will spend a good portion of their day tending to their appearance, but their fur can become matted (especially if you’ve got a long-haired rabbit breed) and they sometimes need human help when it comes to keeping their coat looking its best. 

Shedding can be light or heavy depending on the time of year, but brushing will greatly help to lessen the amount of fur you find on your floors. If your bunny is grooming themselves excessively, this can cause digestive issues, so regular brushing can help minimize tummy troubles. Regular brushing also helps to stimulate the natural oils in your rabbit's skin, which keeps their coat looking shiny.

To help you decide on the right grooming tool for your bunny, here's our roundup of the best rabbit brushes.

The best rabbit brushes 2026

Types of rabbit brushes

When it comes to brushes, there are several options available and Dr MacMillan explains the differences.

Combs and rakes: “These are best for gently teasing tangles and dead fur from long coats. They can go deeper into the coat than some other types of brush."

Soft-bristled brushes: "These are best for rabbits with smooth, short coats. The bristles gently remove dust or hay and spread the rabbit’s natural oils through its coat. You may find it doesn’t shift much of their dead hair, however.

Rubber curry brushes: “These work best for rabbits with short to medium-length fur. The rubber brush lifts loose fur while giving your rabbit a gentle massage."

Slicker brushes: “These help to remove dead fur and are great for rabbits with medium or long coats. Slicker brushes have multiple, stiff bristles on a wide, flat brush head. These are at an angle to help catch loose fur. The bristles on slicker brushes are usually made of metal so these must be used gently and with care on rabbits."

Grooming gloves: “These are a useful tool to help remove loose fur from short-haired rabbits. They can work well for rabbits who are nervous about being approached with a brush but tolerate being stroked and handled."

How to choose the best rabbit brush

The rabbit brush you choose will depend to a great extent on your overall aim. In general, you can leave a rabbit to their own devices and only intervene when you feel it's appropriate, but there's no harm in using a brush with stiff bristles to remove dead hair on a semi-regular basis. You can then step up to a slicker brush if the hair is becoming tangled. 

"When choosing your brush, look at your rabbit’s coat type," says Dr MacMillan. "A rabbit with a very sleek and short coat like a Rex or Dutch rabbit will be fine with a grooming glove or soft-bristled brush.

“However, a long-haired Angora or lion head will require a comb or a rake, and perhaps a slicker brush. If you are not sure about your rabbit’s coat type then speak to a professional groomer, staff at the pet store or your vet."

Can rabbits eat broccoli is something you may want to know if you’re looking for other things to feed your rabbit.

While their diet should mainly consist of grass, either fresh or in the form of hay, there’s no reason your fluffy friend can’t enjoy a nice treat alongside some of the best food for rabbits. There are many surprising things that rabbits can eat, and you’ll be happy to know that broccoli is one of them!

Our vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, does want pet owners to keep a few things in mind when it comes to serving this food in order for it to be safe. Keep on reading to find out how to serve broccoli and what to beware of.

Is broccoli good for rabbits?

Dr. Rebecca MacMillan says, “The tough stalks contain much more fiber which can lead to an increase in digestive gases. So, to avoid any groaning tummies, it is best to feed mainly broccoli leaves, with small amounts of florets and fine stems.”

Certain parts of broccoli can be fed to rabbits but only in moderation and in small amounts. This vegetable also needs to be fed raw and not cooked. However, in some rabbits, even a small amount of broccoli can cause gas to build up in the digestive system, so although it is suitable to feed, and can be fed in small amounts in rotation with other fruits and vegetables, you should avoid feeding large amounts to your rabbits, and if they have a sensitive digestive system, then avoid it altogether.

Your rabbits will have distinctive tastes and preferences and whilst some rabbits enjoy eating broccoli, others may not find it appealing and won’t eat it.

Can broccoli be dangerous to rabbits?

Any sudden dietary changes, such as changing your rabbit’s food or introducing a new food too quickly, can cause serious and potentially fatal digestive upsets to rabbits. It is important to take a minimum of two weeks to introduce a new food into your rabbit’s diet.

If there are any digestive problems, stop feeding it and exclude it from the diet. Signs may include:

• not eating as much
• stopping eating altogether
• fewer or no droppings being passed
• not eating caecotroph droppings
• liquid diarrhea
• a bloated, gas-filled abdomen
• lethargy
• painful tooth grinding
• collapse

All of these are very serious signs and you must contact your vet straight away, whether it’s day or night. Rabbits can deteriorate rapidly without correct veterinary treatment.

How much broccoli should I feed?

Too much of anything is never a good thing and broccoli is no different. Avoid feeding it to rabbits with any allergies, or intolerances, if it is cooked or picked from the wild. Picking it from the wild might feel au-natural but it carries a contamination and pesticide risk. Otherwise, the leaves and thin stems of broccoli are a great addition to the greens section of your rabbit's diet but it does need to be evenly rotated alongside other rabbit-safe fruit and veggies.

The portion control also requires some attention however this is best checked with your vet as to what the correct amount is for your particular bunny. If your rabbit is new to broccoli, however, always start with a tiny amount and watch for any adverse digestive reactions and increase (or not) from there. Remember to wash the broccoli first and store any excess in a refrigerator.

Other examples of rabbit-safe vegetables to include in their daily greens include parsley, coriander, mint, basil, kale, spinach, and celery. Recommended Vegetables and Herbs is a comprehensive list, from the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF), of which fresh foods you can feed to your rabbits.

How should I serve broccoli?

When serving broccoli to your rabbit you’ll want to be sure to serve it raw. Cooking broccoli can remove some of the nutrients that are good for your bunny to have. Dr. MacMillan also says, “If your rabbit has never had broccoli before then try offering very small amounts to begin with to allow them to get used to it gradually.”

Many rabbits enjoy eating broccoli as part of a balanced and healthy diet but it is always wise to check with your vet if they can consume said food or research questions like can rabbits eat celery? Broccoli, however, if introduced slowly, fed appropriately, and in moderation is a safe and healthy choice to give to your rabbit.

Enjoyed this feature? Check out 32 things rabbits shouldn’t eat.

There's more to good rabbit care than first meets the eye. Despite this, to many families, a rabbit looks like a relatively low-maintenance pet. Simply buy one of the best rabbit hutches, grab some of the best rabbit food, and you’re all set, right?

Wrong! In order to provide a healthy environment for your rabbit, it’s important to do your research and learn about properly caring for your floppy-eared friend. Providing a quality hutch along with an appropriate enclosure, that's made secure with one of the best rabbit runs, is vital.

Regular exercise, a well-balanced diet, mental stimulation, socialization, and appropriate veterinary care are also important components in properly caring for your pet rabbit. Taking good care of your rabbit is essential if you want it to reach a typical 8-12 year rabbit lifespan.

1. Create a suitable and safe enclosure for your rabbit

The first decision is whether you plan to house your rabbit indoors or outdoors. Rabbits need a lot of space and there are pros and cons to both.

Many owners find that housing their rabbit indoors allows them to form a greater bond with their pet, due to the increased interaction they have with them. This can lead to a more affectionate pet. Housing your rabbit indoors can also keep them better protected against other animals like foxes and cats, as well as stop them from being exposed to extremes of temperature. You can keep a closer eye on your rabbit indoors too, spotting health problems earlier.

Housing a rabbit outdoors can, however, allows for larger accommodation, easier access to an outdoor run and better ventilation.

Once you’ve decided where to house your rabbit, the next thing to decide is what type of housing! Some indoor rabbit owners dedicate an entire room to their rabbit, removing anything that isn’t “rabbit proof” and creating separate areas for food, rest, and elimination within the room. Most owners, however, purchase a rabbit condo or rabbit cage. When choosing a condo or cage for your rabbit, more space is better. The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund recommend accommodation that is at least 3m x 2m x 1m to allow your rabbit to stretch, stand up and hop comfortably in.

Also, ensure that your rabbit has a smooth area within the cage to rest on because the wire grates that are found on the bottom of many cages can lead to skin and foot issues.

2. Rabbit-proof your home and garden 

Rabbits need daily exercise. Lack of exercise can contribute to several health issues, including obesity, poor muscle tone, low bone density, gastrointestinal disorders, urinary disorders, and behavioural issues. Therefore, you will need to let your rabbit out of its cage regularly.

If you allow your rabbit to roam indoors then make sure you know how to bunny proof a room. Rabbits love to chew, so electric cords can be especially dangerous. Any accessible wires or cords should be covered with tubing or protective plastic. You should also protect anything that you don’t want to have damaged, especially items like plants and books. Finally, you will want to create a barrier that will keep your rabbit from going under your bed, couches, etc, because rabbits can cause significant damage whilst out of sight in these areas.

If you can let your rabbit out in the garden, then they will benefit hugely from the opportunity to dig and nibble on fresh grass. Vitamin D production is also stimulated by sunlight, which rabbits are unable to get indoors. This vitamin is important in maintaining healthy bones, muscles and immunity.

Just make sure your rabbit is kept safe whilst exploring outdoors. Ensure that your garden is well secured and free from poisonous plants. If you are unable to give your rabbit full access to the garden then consider fencing off a portion or providing a large run.

You'll also need to learn how to keep a rabbit warm in the winter.

3. Provide an appropriate diet, consisting of hay, vegetables, and rabbit pellets

When considering what to feed your rabbit, you must remember that the most important component of a rabbit’s diet is hay. Your rabbit should have unlimited access to the best hay for rabbits at all times. While legume hays, such as clover and alfalfa, can be used as a special treat, grass hay should constitute the majority of your rabbit’s diet. Appropriate grass hays include timothy, oat, rye, barley, or meadow grass. If possible, you should aim to offer your rabbit a variety of grass hays, as each hay has a slightly different nutrient profile, always making sure it is good quality, fresh and fragrant smelling.

Green vegetables are the second most important component of your rabbit’s diet. Rabbits enjoy a variety of green vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, leaf lettuce, romaine lettuce, bok choy, brussels sprouts, collard greens, kale, parsley, and others. To limit exposure to pesticides, you should always wash vegetables before feeding them to your rabbit. Fruits and sweet vegetables like carrots can also be given occasionally, but they should be regarded as a special treat and should not be a part of your rabbit’s daily diet.

Rabbit pellets should comprise a small portion of your rabbit’s daily diet. Overfeeding pellets can lead to obesity, while also decreasing the quantity of nutritious hay and vegetables that your rabbit eats. Additionally, eating large amounts of pelleted food can slow your rabbit’s gastrointestinal movements. Aim to provide approximately 10-15% of your rabbit’s diet in the form of pelleted rabbit food, or approximately ¼ cup of pellets per 4 pounds of body weight per day. For more info read our five do's and don't of feeding rabbits correctly.

4. Provide appropriate grooming, socializing, and enrichment 

Rabbits are social animals and as such should be kept with others of their species in pairs or groups so that they can display natural behaviours. It is a breach of the five freedoms of animal welfare to keep a rabbit on its own unless advised by a vet or behaviourist to do so.

Rabbits also require plenty of human attention. It’s important to interact with your rabbits daily, to provide them with both mental stimulation and additional socialization. Rabbits also require regular grooming, such as brushing and nail trims. To be able to safely groom your rabbit, your rabbit needs to be accustomed to being handled regularly.

They are also prone to boredom. Therefore, they need to be provided with novel toys on a regular basis. These toys don’t necessarily need to be store-bought; even a cardboard box with a hole cut in it as a door can provide enrichment. Take a look at our guide to the best rabbit toys for some great ideas on accessories.

5. Work with a veterinarian to ensure that your rabbit receives regular wellness care 

Like many other pets, rabbits require regular veterinary care in order to remain at their healthiest. Talk to your veterinarian about your rabbit’s health needs and learn the veterinarian’s preventive care recommendations.

Many veterinarians may recommend spaying or neutering rabbits, to prevent cancer and behavioural issues. Additionally, your rabbit should see the veterinarian for a wellness visit every 6-12 months, to have a thorough physical examination, vaccinations and dental evaluation. Rabbits are prone to overgrown teeth and other dental issues, so it is not uncommon for rabbits to require dental care during the course of their lives.

Additionally, you should always contact your veterinarian if you notice that your rabbit is demonstrating any signs of illness. Any respiratory signs or loss of appetite indicates the need for a veterinary visit as soon as possible.

And while parasites aren't commonly found on rabbits, it can still happen — especially in multi-pet households. Our guide to how to get rid of fleas on rabbits will help you clear an infestation quickly.

Rabbits are a commitment 

It’s important to understand that a pet rabbit represents a significant commitment, much like adding a dog or cat to your home. Although rabbits may be smaller in size, they still require a significant amount of care and attention. However, the reward for this effort can be tremendous!

You might also want to read about rabbit winter care.

Can rabbits eat pumpkin? It’s a question you may have found yourself pondering if you’re the proud pet parent of a bunny and while there aren't any nutritional benefits to be had, when consumed in small amounts, pumpkin won’t do your floppy-eared friend any harm. But, just like when it comes to selecting from amongst the best rabbit harnesses, there are some things you need to be aware of before serving pumpkin up to your bunny.

Before we explore that further, did you know that pumpkins aren’t actually a vegetable? It’s true! By and large, the difference between a fruit and a vegetable is whether they are the product of the seed-bearing structure of a plant that flowers. Vegetables are the edible parts of plants, which can include the stems, leaves, roots, bulbs, flowers, and tubers. We may think that pumpkins are a vegetable, but they are classed as a fruit.

The good news is that whether a pumpkin is a fruit or a vegetable doesn’t really matter when it comes to whether or not it’s suitable for your rabbit. The most important thing to bear in mind when choosing healthy rabbit treats is to consider what benefit it has for your bunny. The best rabbit food to feed is what is natural for them to eat and what wild rabbits would naturally consume.

• Can rabbits eat tomatoes?
• Can rabbits eat celery?

Is pumpkin good for rabbits?

There is a difference between something that is good for rabbits to eat, and something that can be eaten by rabbits. Pumpkins contain calcium, zinc, iron, vitamins A and B, fiber and water, all of which rabbits require in their diet. However, they are also high in sugar and carbohydrates, both of which, if consumed in large quantities, can cause digestive problems for rabbits, which can be serious. 

Pumpkins are not something that wild rabbits would naturally choose to eat, but small amounts, given infrequently as a treat, will not do any harm.

• Best rabbit litter box: Keep your bunny clean and healthy
• Best rabbit brushes: Keep their fur in fabulous condition

Can pumpkin be harmful to rabbits?

An incorrect diet is harmful for rabbits in many ways, causing dental disease, digestive problems and obesity, which can lead to other health problems, such as osteoarthritis, flystrike and sore hocks. All of these impact the rabbit’s welfare and shorten your rabbit’s lifespan, so feeding what is healthy and beneficial to your rabbits is imperative.

A small amount of raw pumpkin flesh, every now and then, is unlikely to do any harm, but be mindful that it can cause gas in the digestive system or may cause a digestive upset, so it may be best avoided, and some rabbits may refuse to eat it. The seeds from pumpkins are a potential choking hazard for rabbits, or may cause a blockage in the digestive system, so must never be fed.

• How to stop rabbits fighting
• Guide to rabbit grooming

What should my rabbit eat?

Grass, hay, herbs (such as parsley, coriander, mint, basil and dill), as well as a selection of other safe vegetables (for example, celery, spinach, kale and broccoli) should make up the bulk of your rabbit's diet. Always introduce new foods slowly over at least two weeks and don’t make sudden dietary changes. Hay and grass must make up at least 85% of their diet, fresh foods around 10% and the best rabbit food around 5% of the diet (1 level tablespoon per kg of ideal body weight). Treats should be just that, treats, which are fed every so often.

• How to litter box train a rabbit
• Why rabbits pull fur out and how to stop them doing it

Conclusion

Pumpkin isn’t poisonous to rabbits, so if your rabbit eats a small amount of the peel or flesh it is highly unlikely to do any serious harm. However, there are no benefits in feeding it to them, and many healthier food items your rabbit can consume instead. Sticking to a healthy diet is in your rabbits’ health and welfare interests.

The idea of indoor rabbits is not a new one – rabbits have been kept inside houses for decades. In fact, any rabbit can become a house rabbit; they are not a specific breed. There are some potential benefits to keeping indoor rabbits and if you invest in the best indoor rabbit hutch, you'll be able to create a nice homey habitat for your floppy-eared friend. 

Many people feel that keeping an indoor rabbit allows them to build a better relationship with them. The close proximity of their fluffy friend also means that they can spot any signs of illness sooner. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk, so even if you work all day, you'll get plenty of social interaction from them before and after work.

Having rabbits outdoors may not be an option for some people, even with the best rabbit hutch and best rabbit run they can find. They may live in an area with lots of foxes, or may not have a garden, or it might not be safe and secure. Equally, the temperature where they live may be too hot or cold. Whatever the reason why an outdoor rabbit isn't for you, indoor rabbits can make great house pets.

1. Consider safety

Rabbits love to chew and dig, and this behavior is totally natural for them. However, they don't always make safe choices when deciding what to chew. They can easily chew through electrical cables, which may, sadly, have fatal consequences.

It is imperative that you bunny-proof your home. Move all electric cables and aerials out of the reach of your rabbits, and bear in mind how tall they are when standing on their hind legs and stretching. They might be able to reach higher than you think! Any belongings or decorative items you don't want chewing need to be placed out of their way, like plants, books, TV remotes, and shoes.

It's easy to injure your rabbit accidentally, so care needs to be taken when walking around, as rabbits will run near your feet without you noticing them. You should also take care when opening and closing doors.

2. Make the environment suitable

Rabbits need to feel safe in their environment. While they should be allowed access to a large area inside the home, they should also be allowed to retreat away for peace and quiet when they choose. 

Rabbit cages can be used, but they must be open at all times and used as a resting area or litter tray, and not to shut the rabbits away in. The rabbits can be placed in a single, safe room if this need should arise. No indoor cages are large enough for any size of rabbit to live in and be able to express their normal behaviors.

Rabbits do not like strong smells or loud noises, so make sure you minimize these. Closing the door to the kitchen will minimize cooking smells, and keeping the volume low on televisions, computers, and radios will help too.

Ideally, all indoor rabbits should also have access to a large and safe enclosure outside, especially in the warmer months of the year. This will allow them to graze and have access to fresh air. To avoid picking up your rabbit, which they often find stressful, a tunnel/cat flap set-up is preferable for access to the outdoors. Of course, depending on your home, this may not be possible.

3. Rabbits will make a mess 

Rabbits will happily chew on the carpet, wallpaper, and plaster, especially if there is a lack of other stimulation in the environment. These can be dangerous and cause blockages in the rabbit's gastrointestinal tract. If you notice your rabbit chewing any items they shouldn't be, access must be blocked off to these areas. You will also need to increase the chewing, and digging opportunities your rabbit does have. Some good ways to do this are providing more willow, apple, or seagrass balls or mats to chew on and boxes to dig in. You should also ensure they have plenty of the best rabbit toys to play with.

Hay is imperative to rabbits' digestion and health, and house rabbits are no different. Hay must be provided 24/7 and should always be fresh, sweet-smelling, and free from dust. Feeding hay off the floor is preferable and mimics a natural feeding and foraging pattern rather than feeding from hay racks, but this can be messy. Place hay in several areas of your rabbits' living space to encourage them to eat more. This should be changed at least daily, if not more often.

Providing several litter trays will mean your rabbits are more likely to use them. Place them in corners in different areas, and make sure they are cleaned regularly.

4. Mixing with other animals

It may be that you also have dogs, cats, or other animals in the household. If this is the case, you need to ensure they cannot gain unsupervised access to your rabbits. Cats and dogs are natural predators to rabbits, and even the sight of one may invoke fear and stress in your rabbits. Even the most gentle cats and dogs are still capable of inflicting severe or fatal injuries on rabbits. 

With careful introduction and training, rabbits can enjoy the company of household dogs and cats. Nevertheless, don't ever assume they will be safe or leave them together unsupervised. Rabbits should not be housed with or mix with guinea pigs for health, behavior, and welfare reasons.

5. Still need a rabbit friend

While living inside with you will mean your rabbit has more human company, this cannot replace the company of another rabbit. Rabbits exhibit different behaviors to companion rabbits, from those they demonstrate to their human owners, so house rabbits must be kept in pairs. 

The best combination is a male and female, with BOTH rabbits being neutered. Many rescue centers will have suitable rabbits available for adoption and be able to help with bonding. It is important to remember that house rabbits also need vaccinating and to have regular boosters. Your vet will be able to advise you on this.

Be prepared

With careful thought and consideration of what rabbits need to live a fulfilled life indoors, it is possible to have them share our homes. They will make entertaining and endearing house companions. Still, you should be prepared for the potential pitfalls and what you will need to do to overcome these.

By Claire Speight, Registered Veterinary Nurse, on behalf of the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF).

Your bunny is sure to love our top picks of the best rabbit toys. These toys have been tried and tested, so we are confident that you will find the right one for your flop-eared friend.

The right toy will not only provide your rabbit with endless play opportunities but also help support their development. Things like chewing, burrowing, and hopping are some of a rabbit’s favorite things to do, so choosing toys that support these natural behaviors will also help to keep your bunny happy and healthy. Plus playing games with rabbits is fun for owners, too.

While some of the best indoor rabbit hutches will offer plenty of room for eating and sleeping, you want to be sure that there is enough space for your bunny to run around and get a few bunny binkies in while they’re playing with their new toys. This is especially true if you have more than one rabbit.

Dr Rebecca MacMillan is also here to detail the different types of rabbit toys and share her advice on which ones may be best suited to your bunny. Now, let’s check out our favorite rabbit toys.

Best rabbit toys 2026

How to choose the best rabbit toys

Remember, every rabbit is unique and has different wants and needs. You know your pet better than anyone, so consider their behavior before choosing the best rabbit toys for them.

Chew toys are good for all rabbits as one of their most natural behaviors is gnawing. Dr. Rebecca MacMillan says, "Some rabbits may prefer more natural-looking toys. Willow balls are a relatively inexpensive option and lots of rabbits enjoy throwing these around, chasing around after them, and chewing them apart."

Make sure you always check that the rabbit toy you want does not contain any toxic materials that could be harmful if your rabbit were to chew on them. There are lots of different chew treats and toys available, and it’s not guaranteed that your rabbit will like everything, so it’s a case of trial and error.

And finally, you may wish to consider comfort. If your rabbit is more of a sedentary pet and enjoys lounging around, hiding, and burrowing, then something like the pop-up tents and pens are a great comfort for them.

How much playtime does a rabbit need?

How much time should a rabbit spend playing? The amount will vary between individual bunnies. On average, most rabbits will spend between two to three hours a day playing and exercising.

It is best to try and sneak a play session in at a time when your bunny is most active, generally early in the morning or in the evening. Of course, if your rabbit is eating, sleeping, or using the bathroom it is best to let them finish and start your play session when they are ready to engage with you.

How do you play with a rabbit?

Dr. MacMillan gave us some tips and tricks on how to play with a rabbit. She says, "To engage with your rabbit, you should come down to their level and sit or lie on the floor with them. As a prey animal, this is less intimidating than having someone loom over the top of them. Try not to make too many sudden movements or loud sounds, especially if your rabbit is nervous."

She also notes speaking to your bunny in a positive manner can go a long way. It also won't hurt to reward any interaction and tons of praise and of course, a treat. This is also a good way to incorporate their regular feedings using an interactive puzzle or toy.

Finally, we want to ensure we aren't forcing our bunnies to play for too long. "If your rabbit tires from playing, let him retreat. Never force rabbits to continue playing if they are not interested." Don't worry if your bunny doesn't want to play for too long. A normal play session can last between 10 minutes or an hour, just depending on your rabbit's mood. You might also find they start playing again later on their own.

Considering getting a house rabbit? Or maybe you’ve already welcomed one into your family? Either way, you likely have lots of questions on how to care for a house rabbit, including everything from housing and diet, to litter box training and vet care.

While bunnies certainly look adorable, they’re actually not as straightforward to care for as you might think – and rabbits need a lot of space. Rabbits are quite complicated animals and require more than just the best indoor rabbit hutch to keep them happy and healthy.

That’s why we turned to expert vet Dr. Catherine Barnette. Below, she shares everything you need to know about caring for your indoor house rabbit, including what to feed a rabbit, what sort of enclosure to buy, and why you should consider adopting rabbits in pairs. So, without further ado, let’s hop to it!

1. Set up an enclosure

While some house rabbit owners allow their bunnies free range of a rabbit-proofed room or other portion of their home, most people house their rabbits in a hutch or rabbit pen, particularly when they are unsupervised. It’s important to purchase a large enough cage that your rabbit has room to move around freely. Your rabbit should be able to stand up on his hind legs, stretch out and hop about in it. The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF) recommend a hutch that is at least 3m x 2m x 1m high for rabbits that live indoors or outdoors.

Your rabbit’s cage should be located in a central area of the home because rabbits are social animals and thrive with at least some degree of human contact. At the same time, it’s best to place the cage in an area that isn’t subjected to frequent loud noises or drafts. The goal is to provide socialization, not to increase your rabbit’s stress level!

2. Provide a high-quality diet

Your rabbit’s diet is mainly hay, but should best supplemented by the best rabbit food. Although young, growing rabbits may require larger quantities of rabbit pellets, adult rabbits are often prone to obesity and do best when fed just one to two tablespoons of pellets per day. For more advice read our do’s and don'ts’ of feeding rabbits correctly.

Green leafy vegetables, such as washed dandelion leaves, mustard greens, and bok choy, are good vegetable options for rabbits. These vegetables provide vitamins, minerals, and fibre. In general, vegetables with high sugar or starch levels (such as carrots) should be avoided or only given as a very occasional treat.

When introducing any new vegetable, it’s best to introduce small quantities gradually, while monitoring for signs of diarrhoea. It can take some time for rabbits to adjust to new foods, so feeding new vegetables in large quantities can lead to gastrointestinal upset.

3. Give your rabbit access to fresh hay

In addition to high-quality rabbit pellets and fresh vegetables, your rabbit requires constant access to hay. Hay is probably the most important component of your rabbit’s diet and should make up 80-90% of their daily diet. It not only provides fiber that is necessary for digestion but also helps to keep your rabbit’s teeth worn down to a healthy length, reducing the risk of painful dental conditions. Young, growing rabbits can have alfalfa hay, while adult rabbits do best with good-quality timothy or grass hay.

4. Rabbit-proof your house

Your rabbit should be let out of his or her cage for at least a few hours every day, in order to exercise and enjoy a change of scenery. This means that you'll need to know how to bunny-proof a room. Crawl around your home, or the area in which you wish to confine your rabbit when he or she is out of the cage, and take a rabbit’s-eye view of any potential hazards.

Electrical cords are one of the biggest risks and could electrocute your rabbit if chewed (and rabbits love to chew!). Try and cover them in plastic sleeves or tubing, or pin them up well out of reach. Rabbits also tend to chew on baseboards, furniture, books, plants, and anything else they can find, so you may want to move objects to higher ground and/or cover anything that you don’t want to be chewed.

5. Train your rabbit to use a litter box

Once you know how to litter box train a rabbit, using a litter box inside the cage will significantly cut down on the amount of time you spend cleaning your rabbit’s cage every day. Using a litter box when your rabbit is outside his or her cage can help preserve your carpets and other flooring!

Be sure to use one of the best rabbit litter boxes and one of the best litters for rabbits – avoid clay-based or clumping litters that are designed for cats. Instead, use paper pellet litter or even shredded newspaper. Most rabbits will take to using a litter box rather readily. If not, you can place a few of your rabbit’s stool pellets in the litter box to help them get the message.

6. Provide plenty of physical and mental enrichment

Part of responsible rabbit ownership is preventing boredom in your pet rabbits. It’s easy for house rabbits to become sedentary and under-stimulated, leading to weight gain or behavioral issues. There are many things you can do to help keep your rabbits engaged and entertained.

Rabbits love to dig, so a tray filled with dirt or nontoxic sand can help your rabbit express that natural tendency. Rabbits also love to chew, so clipping some nontoxic branches from your backyard can provide a safe and low-maintenance chew toy for your pet rabbit.

Rabbits naturally enjoy hiding in burrows, so boxes with rabbit-sized openings can provide a place for your rabbit to rest or play. Placing shelves around your home that your rabbit can use as perches can help increase your rabbit’s exercise and activity levels. Take a look at our list of the best rabbit toys for some more ideas.

7. Consider getting two rabbits

According to the Animal Humane Society, one of the five freedoms of animal welfare is that species who live naturally in pairs or groups should be provided with the company. Rabbits in the wild live in extended family groups, and as such spend a lot of the day socialising, grooming and interacting with each other. Your house rabbit will be much happier housed with at least one other rabbit – keeping rabbits on their own, or with another species (like a guinea pig), is not recommended.

8. Find a knowledgeable rabbit vet

Like any other pet, rabbits require regular veterinary care, with vaccinations advised for even indoor bunnies. Your veterinarian is not only a resource to be used if your rabbit develops an illness. Instead, your veterinarian should see your rabbit for routine wellness visits, to monitor your rabbit’s overall health, assess the need for dental care, and monitor your rabbit’s diet and general care.

While rabbits aren't prone to parasites in the same way dogs and cats are, they can pick them up if they're living in multi-pet households. Speak to your vet if you suspect your bunny might have an infestation or check out our guide to how to get rid of fleas on rabbits.

Much can be done for rabbits medically and surgically these days. However, advanced veterinary care comes at a cost so it may be worth considering pet insurance for your bunny.

While providing proper care for a house rabbit may sound a bit overwhelming, it’s important to think about everything that these pets can provide you in return for your efforts. Little rabbits have big personalities, bonding closely with their owners and providing steady companionship.