From African dwarf frogs and fire belly toads to tiger salamanders and pacman frogs – contrary to what you might have heard, there are many amphibians that are easy to keep. Due to their need for a carefully controlled environment that mimics their natural habitat, these fascinating animals often get branded as being complicated to look after.

Of course, all pets need lots of TLC and amphibians are no different. But once you know how to get their setup right (and avoid the simple setup mistakes), their care doesn’t have to be convoluted or complex. For starters, amphibians – which are defined as small vertebrates that require a moist environment and/or water to survive – span several different species, including frogs, toads, salamanders, and newts.

To thrive in a domestic setting, these soft-skinned creatures need a vivarium or tank that's safe and sturdy, and able to be kept at the right temperature (most often with a hot side and a cooler side) and the correct humidity levels. Due to all amphibians being ectothermic (so, cold-blooded), they’ll also need an external heat source, like one of the best reptile heating pads, to help regulate their body temperature.

To uncover the amphibians that are easy to keep (making them ideal for busy pet parents), we’ve rounded up a list of our favourite 20.

Easy amphibians for beginners

1. American Green Tree frog

It wouldn’t be a list of the top easy amphibians unless we included the American Green Tree frog. Fascinating to look at, coming in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors, the humble leaper is one of the most beginner-friendly amphibians you can come across.

In the amphibian arena, they have relatively simple needs. So, along with the usual care requirements, as long as you feed them crickets, wax worms and earthworms and they have lots of places to climb to their heart’s content, these nocturnal creatures should be happy.

2. Tiger salamander

Often hailed as one of the most unusual pets, a tiger salamander might be anything but ordinary, but with a little know-how, they are one of the simplest amphibians to look after.

Of course, just like other amphibians, this tiger-printed beauty relies on external heat sources to help regulate its body temperature. And when bred in captivity, they are sociable beings, so if you intend to adopt one, bear in mind that you'll need space for two. But with their protruding eyes and wide-set mouth, which look like they are always smiling, what’s not to love?

3. Xenopus clawed frog

Known (and loved) for their charming toothless and tongueless expression, these long-living amphibians, which have been known to live for up to 25 years, are completely aquatic. This means, if you intend to keep these beauties, you’ll need to have a fully aquatic or submerged habitat for them to roam in.

They’re also one of the most fascinating creatures to look at, with their slits in their webbed feet and hands, which look like giant claws.

4. Pacman Frogs

Considered to be terrestrial amphibians, most often found in Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil, Pacman frogs (also called horned frogs) prefer to spend most of their time underground and in humid environments rather than in the water.

But even though these larger-than-life frogs can grow to up to 6in long, they prefer to live life in the slow lane as they’re not very active at all. Therefore, they won’t need a large enclosure to satisfy their often sedentary needs. Instead, to keep these amphibians happy, your best bet is to keep their bellies fully stocked on crickets and mealworms and ensure they have enough substrate to burrow.

5. African Dwarf frogs

Small, perfectly peaceful and low-maintenance, African Dwarf frogs join this list of amphibians that are easy to keep and for multiple reasons.

Tiny, so not taking up much room at all, living for a moderately long time (around five to seven years on average) and thriving in water, these aqua-loving amphibians are a joy to keep – but that’s if you can find them.

Coming with a brown-green appearance, in the wild, these kind croakers much prefer to blend into their surroundings rather than being the star of the underwater world. But this makes them all the more alluring! So if you’re looking for aquarium pets that aren't fish — consider an African Dwarf frog!

6. Fire-bellied toads

Just look at these multicolored beauties with their bright orange and red undersides and gorgeous green front!

Fire-bellied toads are popular among amphibian hobbyists for several reasons. The first being that they are a joy to look at. The second is that they are relatively easy to look after. And the third is that they are super-small in size (around 2in), so they are one of the best small pets for compact homes.

Plus, these toads require zero handling at all, as these semi-aquatic amphibians excrete toxins to prevent predators from eating them. Pretty, clever right?

7. Poison dart frog

Ticking all the boxes for being one of the most low-maintenance and easy-to-care-for amphibians once their right habitat has been set up, the poison dart frog is a great choice for beginner amphibian lovers and makes for one of the best first pets for children.

But don’t let their name fool you. Domestic poison dart frogs are, in fact, non-poisonous. That’s because their poison comes from their diet (such as insects like ants, mites, and millipedes) they eat when they’re in the wild. Therefore, this striking frog, which comes in a variety of vibrant colors, including red, green, blue, yellow and black, could be the ideal amphibian to share your home with.

8. Amazon Milk frog

Another beauty to add to the list. As their name suggests, the Amazon Milk frog is native to the Amazon Rainforest and they are considered to be a large species, growing anywhere between 2-4in.

Sociable, lovers of warm temperatures and high humidity levels, in the wild, they are classed as arboreal frogs (which means they spend the majority of their life in trees). So if you intend to become the very proud pet parent of an Amazon Milk frog, you’ll need an enclosure with enough height for them to climb.

9. Firebelly newts

It’s not just frogs and toads that are amphibians. Newts – like the firebelly newt – fit the bill, too.

Sometimes referred to as the Chinese firebelly newts, or the oriental firebelly newt, these striking pets are often characterized by their vibrant red-orange marking.

Considered to be aquatic as they live in bodies of water or in areas around them, these newts are active and hardy. Of course, just like other amphibians, there will be some work upfront to get their tank set up just right – as they thrive in cooler temperatures and clean water (so do read up on how to keep a tank clean), along with having access to some dry land and at least 12 hours of light.

But once this is all ticked off, they can live life right by your side for up to 30 years if cared for well.

10. Crested newts

Sturdy, robust and fairly easy to maintain, the crested newt could be another contender for your tank.

This wart-ridden charmer has a unique pattern of black spots on its orange underbelly, and it has a varied palette when it comes to their diet. For example, some will favor live foods like earthworms, shrimp, and bloodworms, while others might prefer fish food pellets.

Either way, they’ll need a body of water in which they can stretch their legs, but they’ll also yearn for some substrate where they can dry off and burrow.

11. Axolotl

Did you know you can have an axolotl as a pet? Well, that’s in some states, as these salamanders are illegal in certain places, like California, Maine, New Jersey, Washington, and Virginia. While in New Mexico and Hawaii, you’ll need a permit to keep these unique beauties.

But that said, these fairly low-maintenance amphibians, which are known best for their sweet smiles and feathery gills, are one of the more unusual pets. Remaining underwater their entire lives, so you’ll need a sturdy tank setup, these creatures are not to be handled. Once you have their housing needs sorted, they can live for up to 10 to 15 years.

12. Eastern newt

Mainly aquatic, Eastern newts are relatively easy to care for and if shown the right TLC, they can thrive in human company for 15 years (or more).

Native to the USA, Eastern newts’ habitat needs will shift between water and land, depending on their life stage. For example, they start their life underwater before moving onto land. They finally return to water as adults to breed.

Another word of warning? Eastern newts shouldn’t be handled and they are sensitive to heat. So if you’re considering making these amphibians your latest tank addition, do read up on the right care requirements to help them thrive.

13. Eastern tiger salamander

Here’s an exotic amphibian if ever there was one! In the wild, this large, robust and personable salamander is often found lurking in grassy fields, woodland areas and near bodies of water. So if you can replicate all of the above in a domestic setting, you’re onto a good thing.

Able to be kept with another tank mate, the key to living together under one roof in perfect harmony is to get this type of amphibian's humidity, light, and heat right, while ensuring there is enough food to go around. If not, eastern tiger salamanders have been known to eat each other when food sources are sparse.

14. African bullfrog

If you’re sure you can control the right humidity levels and recreate temperatures fit for an African bullfrog, then this amphibian could be your newest family member.

Known for their seemingly endless appetite, growing at up to 10 inches, it's been said that African bullfrogs can eat birds, lizards and snakes. But in captivity, these large-bodied frogs will favor invertebrates and other small vertebrates that they can fit in their mouth. So they could make for a great pet that isn't a cat or dog.

15. Australian Green Tree frog

Australian Green Tree frogs are another type of easy-to-look-after amphibian that comes with a relatively long lifespan when in captivity.

Known for reaching the grand old age of 16, if well cared for, Australian Green Tree frogs are celebrated for their loud bell-like call (so it's a wise idea not to keep their glass tank near where you sleep), sociable nature and their changing color, which can look more brown than green depending on the light, humidity and temperature in their habitat. Either way you look at it, these croakers will be fascinating to share a home with.

16. Tomato frogs

Best identified by their yellow-orange or bright red and orange coloring with black spots on their back, tomato frogs are brilliant at evading predators due to their number of defense mechanisms. For starters, they can release a toxic secretion through their skin. They can also inflate to deter predators.

But in captivity, this nocturnal species is pretty easy to look after (and keep safe). They might not need any special lighting requirements to satisfy their needs, but their tank will need to be kept at a 65–80% humidity level and set to stay at a temperature of between 65–85°F.

These loveable amphibians are also terrestrial, meaning they'll prefer to have more horizontal space (so they can burrow) instead of vertical.

17. American toad

Another toad to add to the list, this common American species comes with short legs, stout bodies, and lots of warts. Despite the common misconception, touching an American toad won't give you warts. However, these additions do play a vital role in the wild. That's because they contain glands that produce a poisonous fluid, which provides protection against predators.

Keen to keep an American toad as a pet? These semi-aquatic creatures require some fresh water, along with vegetation for cover. They'll also live happily when fed with a diet of crickets, mealworms and earthworms.

18. Southern toad

Starting out as herbivores as tadpoles and turning into carnivores as adults, this cold-blooded and smooth-skinned toad will favor a variety of terrestrial habitats – but it must be close to water.

Along with being able to eat up to 1,000 insects each day (yes, really!), this hardy toad is nocturnal, meaning it will come alive at night.

19. Gray tree frog

As their name suggests, gray tree frogs are an arboreal species that have webbed hands and feet and a penchant for climbing trees.

These large creatures will love feasting on mites, spiders, snails and slugs. And keen amphibian hobbyists will be pleased to know that, as long as you get their set-up right, these tree frogs will require very little upkeep – so they can be suitable for frog lovers who don't have bundles of spare time but still want to share their home with these fascinating critters.

20. Red eye tree frog

With their red eyes and red-tipped feet, red-eyed tree frogs are perhaps one of the most intriguing amphibians to look at and one of the wonderful but weird and unusual animals you might not have heard of before.

Living on a diet of insects, favoring damp substrate and growing to around 3 inches, this arboreal frog will need space to live, eat and climb. They will also need UVB lighting, the right heating and a water bowl as a source of freshwater.

Read next: Low-maintenance reptiles

Low-maintenance reptiles can be a great choice if you're a novice pet owner or someone who has a hectic lifestyle with not a lot of time leftover to devote to a pet.

There are lots of different types of reptile you can keep as a pet and the ones on this list are typically very hardy and most don't require elaborate set ups in order to thrive. They still require basic care, but the majority are happy to do their own thing and won't be demanding frequent attention.

As an added bonus, many reptiles enjoy long lifespans, so they can be a great choice if you're looking for a display pet who will be around for years to come. It's worth bearing in mind that some of the reptiles on this list will live for 50 years or more, so while they're certainly low-maintenance they do require a long-term commitment.

Low-maintenance reptiles

1. Leopard gecko

An easy-to-care-for pet with a docile nature, the leopard gecko can live up to 20 years when looked after correctly. A breeze to handle and requiring minimal care, these nocturnal reptiles get their name because of their yellow and white coloring and black spots.

Measuring 8-10 inches in length, leopard geckos (or leos as they're affectionately called) are slow-moving, vocal and gentle as long as they're handled with care.

2. Bearded dragon

A great starter pet for reptile enthusiasts, the bearded dragon is native to Australia and grows to around 24 inches in length. Beardies will flare out the skin underneath their chin when feeling threatened, making them look like they have a beard, which is how they got their name.

Good bearded dragon care (such as ensuring they have a good tank setup with hiding areas and basking rocks) will help this calm, gentle and placid lizard live for up to 10 years.

3. Corn snake

Corn snakes make fantastic pets thanks to how docile and low-maintenance they are. Active at dawn and dusk, these snakes are typically low-key and will tolerate being handled. They can grow to around four feet long on average and have a lifespan of between 15 and 20 years.

Like all snakes, corn snakes are master escape artists, so you'll want to make sure you have a very tight fitting lid on their tank to prevent them from getting out.

4. Blue-tongued skink

One of the best pet reptiles, the blue-tongued skink is laid-back, intelligent and easily tamed. These docile, quiet and gentle lizards hail from Australia and are known for forming strong bonds with their owners.

Their elongated body can reach 24 inches and length and most will live for 15-20 years with the correct care. While blue-tongued skinks are not aggressive, they will bite if they feel threatened and they have very strong teeth so bites can be painful.

For that reason, it's always worth supervising children when they're interacting with this skink.

5. Ball python

Named because for the way they curl up in a tight ball when feeling threatened, the ball python can grow to around 4-5 feet in length and if cared for correctly, they can live for a whopping 30 years!

Ball pythons are solitary and nocturnal, and are typically very docile and gentle, which makes them easy to handle. Calm and non-aggressive, ball pythons are well-mannered and while they're generally friendly, most are also quite shy.

6. Russian Tortoise

Russian Tortoises are native to the desserts of Russia, Iran, Pakistan and Afghanistan and live in large, underground burrows which they hibernate in for many months of the year due to the extreme temperatures.

Reaching around 8-10 inches in length when fully grown, these hardy creatures can live for up to 60 years with the right care. Docile yet active, Russian Tortoises are very curious and responsive to their owners but most prefer not to be handled.

7. Kingsnake

Ground-dwelling kingsnakes are widespread in the US and are happy in a range of different habitats from forests to deserts. They typically hide out in rodent burrows and under logs, so you'll want to make sure that their tank environment mimics their natural habitat.

Kingsnakes are mainly active during the day and they're not venomous, although some will nip when stressed. On the whole, however, they are docile, adaptable, inquisitive and easy to tame and most will live between 10–30 years with the right care.

8. Red-eared slider

With the correct care (a large tank, special lighting and a diverse diet, for example) red eared sliders have been known to live for 20 years in captivity. A popular pet with a personable and friendly nature, they are happy to interact with their owners during feeding time, but for the most part, they prefer to be left alone.

Despite their friendliness and tendency to greet their humans at the side of their tank at mealtimes, they are note affectionate and don't enjoy being picked up. However, if you're happy with a pet you can enjoy watching, the enchanting red-eared slider could well be the creature for you.

9. Crested gecko

The crested gecko is a low-maintenance pet perfect for novice lizard owners. Considered extinct until 1994 when large populations were found on islands off the Australian coast, these powerful jumpers quickly became beloved pets.

Growing to eight inches in length and with a lifespan of 15–20 years, crested geckos are relatively calm and placid, and while they don't necessarily enjoy being handled for long periods, they will tolerate short stints.

10. Panther chameleon

With their beautifully colored bodies and fast tongues, the elegant panther chameleon is a spectacular creature to behold. Males can grow to 21 inches in length with females being much shorter at 14 inches, but both have a lifespan of around eight years when they receive the correct care.

Slow moving, docile and quiet, their mood is often reflected by their changing colors and they're known for being more relaxed than other chameleon species. However, it's worth noting that excessive handling can cause stress, so they're more of a display pet than a hands-on one.

11. Spiny-tailed lizard

While it's legal to own a spiny-tailed lizard in the United States, it's not a common choice of pet. That's largely due to the fact that very few countries allow this little creature to be exported, so they're rare and hard to come by.

Still, if you manage to get your hands on one, the spiny-tailed lizard will certainly prove to be the talking point of your home! These creatures are very low maintenance as they only require vegetation for food and their enclosure needs aren't complicated either – they just need a warm tank with plenty of rocks where they can bask and hide.

The spiny-tailed lizard can live for up to 30 years and while they're very gentle, they don't like to be handled.

12. Eastern box turtle

The eastern box turtle is found in woodlands across the Chesapeake watershed in the US. This small reptile measures just six inches in length and has a lifespan of around 40 years.

Eastern box turtles are brown with orange and yellow markings and their toes are only slightly webbed. Typically docile and shy, these turtles are active during the day and enjoy foraging for food.

They tend to be able to recognize the voice of their favorite human and while they don't like being handled, many will interact with their owners by playing with toys.

13. Green anole

A small lizard native to the southern United States, the striking green anole are known for their eye-catching green skin and the bright red fold of skin over their throat.

They're a great choice for beginners as they're very easy to care for and while they are known for being skittish and shy, over time they can learn to tolerate short and gentle handling.

However, it's worth noting that on the whole, they are best as display pets, so that's something to keep in mind if you have children in your family. Most green anoles will live for 5-8 years with the correct care.

14. Gargoyle gecko

Found only on the southern end of the island of New Caledonia in the south-west Pacific, the gargoyle gecko has an easygoing and relaxed nature. Their triangular-shaped head, large bulging eyes and their ability to take on a variety of colors has made them a very popular pet in recent years.

Measuring 6-10 inches in length, gargoyle geckos can live for 20 years and because they're so friendly, they adapt really well to being kept as a pet. While generally placid, they can be territorial with other geckos and for that reason, they're best kept alone unless in a bonded pair.

15. Chinese Water Dragon

Native to southern China and Southeast Asia, the Chinese Water Dragon is relatively small with females measuring two feet in length and males growing to reach three feet.

They tend to live for around 14-16 years and while they're popular pets, many people underestimate their advanced needs and specific care requirements. Chinese Water Dragons need large enclosures measuring at least six feet in length, three feet in depth and six feet in height. They need a good pool of water that they can submerge at least half their height in and the temperature and lighting in the tank need to be kept at the correct levels for bone health.

They are social creatures who like to live in pairs or groups and they're one of the friendliest lizards so they don't mind being handled.

16. Hermann's tortoise

The gentle and calm Hermann's tortoise hails from Mediterranean Europe where it lives in rocky hillsides and forests. Mild mannered and beautiful to look at, this little tortoise measures just 6-8 inches in length and can live for a mind-blowing 75 years with the right care.

While they prefer not to be handled, they're typically very social and will often approach their owners in search of food. They also enjoy being around other Hermann's tortoises and are very active with a love of running, digging and foraging. It's worth noting that these tortoises do not do well inside, so you'll want to house them in an outdoor enclosure.

17. Red-footed tortoise

A long-lived reptile who will easily reach the age of 50, the red-footed tortoise is native to Central and South America, and the Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Barbados.

They require specific temperatures and humidity levels to thrive and their diet should be made up of dark leafy greens, vegetables, fruit and animal protein. Docile and easy going, they are active during the day and spend a lot of time digging and foraging.

Curious and known to approach their owners at feeding time, the red-footed tortoise is friendly but is easily stressed by excessive handling.

18. Frilled-necked lizard

Hailing from Australia, the frilled-neck lizard is a rare but fascinating little creature with a spectacular frill around their neck that they use as a defence mechanism when feeling threatened.

Typically docile and non-aggressive, frilled-neck lizards are quick and agile and while they're not overly fond of being handled, they make excellent pets due to their calm nature and relatively straightforward care needs. Frilled-neck lizards grow to around three feet in length and most will live for around 10-15 years.

19. Red-eyed crocodile skink

Endemic to New Guinea where it lives in tropical rainforests, the red-eyed crocodile skink is a shy and secretive little critter who does best when kept as a display pet. They love to hide and can become very stressed when handled, so keeping this to a minimum will ensure they remain happy and healthy in their habitat.

The red-eyed crocodile skink has very specific care needs, so their enclosure must contain moisture-retaining substrate in the form of bark and moss, as well as high humidity levels but cooler temperatures.

As long as they are looked after correctly, most red-eyed crocodile skinks can live for 10 years, with some living longer.

20. Greek tortoise

Greek tortoises are native to Southern Europe, Southwest Asia and Northern Africa where they inhabit various terrains including grasslands, rocky hillsides and forests.

They have a friendly, calm, gentle and interactive nature, which is why they've become so popular as pets. They are social creatures who enjoy the company of their owners, but like all tortoises, they can become stressed when handled so this is best kept to a minimum.

Greek tortoises do require a long-term commitment as most will live for 50 to 100 years when kept in favorable conditions.

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

Reptile tanks look very impressive when set up correctly, but achieving the perfect environment for your scaly friend is harder than it looks. In fact, reptile tank setup mistakes occur more often than you might think; there are so many factors at play, and a great deal of expertise goes into cultivating an ideal home.

What's more, there are no blanket conditions that can apply to all reptile species; from tortoises to lizards and turtles to snakes, each species needs a different setup to match their native environment.

Light, temperature, humidity, enrichment – these are just some of the details a potential reptile owner must know inside out to avoid common reptile tank setup mistakes. So, without further ado, let's dive into what can go wrong – and how to ensure it doesn't.

Reptile tank setup mistakes

1. Size

When it comes to housing reptiles, enclosure size has a huge effect on quality of life. Every reptile species is different, with its own set of territory and exercise requirements, and climate conditions to maintain.

While there may be a sale on a certain type of tank at your local pet store, starting with a tank of the incorrect size can cause stress and make it difficult to maintain appropriate humidity or temperature. While it might seem like bigger is always better, this isn't necessarily the case.

2. Substrate

What's under your reptile's feet is more influential than you might think, and using the wrong substrate on the floor of your tank could lead to a trip to the vet.

There are a variety of substrate options out there, but, as with many aspects of reptile care, there isn't really a one-size-fits-all option to act as an all-rounder for all reptile species. For example, while desert-dwelling species such as bearded dragons and sand boas love to burrow in a sand substrate, this material could cause impaction or injury in other species.

Similarly, some substrates can have an overwhelming effect on conditions inside the tank. For example, bark-based substrates help maintain high humidity, which is perfect for rainforest species, but not for reptiles that thrive in a dry environment. Always research safe, species-specific options.

3. Humidity

Speaking of humidity, each reptile has specific humidity needs that owners need to cater to, and using the wrong level can lead to dehydration or respiratory problems.

So, what factors affect humidity? As discussed above, substrate plays a role as well as heat lamp bulb type and misting technique, timing, and frequency. Be mindful, too, of where your tank is placed in your home; next the the bathroom might not be ideal for a dry air-loving pet!

4. Zones

Reptiles, of course, are cold-blooded and rely on their external environment to regulate their temperature. This means their tank shouldn't be one consistent temperature; rather, they require a warm and cool side to their enclosure, as well as a basking zone where the heat is most concentrated. This means they can use the different zones to thermoregulate appropriately.

So, how do you achieve this? One or more lamps will help you get the balance right, but make sure you research appropriate temperature ranges for your chosen reptile and maintain them at all times.

5. Temperature

Take out the guesswork by making sure your reptile tank's heat sources have a proper thermostat. Overheating is dangerous, so it's vital to keep control of each heat-emitting device, be it a heat mat, lamp, or ceramic heater, with a thermostat.

You can back up the heat reading on these devices with a thermometer to check they are performing as they should be.

6. Thermometers

Another of the top reptile tank setup mistakes to avoid is using only one thermometer. Use multiple thermometers to monitor basking, ambient, and cool areas accurately.

7. Airflow

Ventilation in a terrarium prevents stagnant air from accumulating. You can buy tanks with vents included, fit vent grids yourself, or even buy open-top enclosures that are fully meshed in place of an upper pane.

Of course, while an open-top tank offers great ventilation, this setup won't foster the highly humid environment some reptile species need. That said, a lack of airflow can cause a rise in temperature, mold growth, or even respiratory illness, so no matter the tank type, you need to ensure the tank has proper ventilation. If your tank's ventilation is less than ideal, you might find that using a fan helps to push hot air out, boost airflow, and help restore ideal conditions for your scaly friend.

8. Introducing new pets

Got an established tank and want to add a second reptile? Before introducing your new pet to his ready-made enclosure – and an existing friend – it’s really important to keep him separate from your other reptiles. Placing him in quarantine allows you to check for signs of disease or parasites. Keep him in a separate tank in a different room and ensure you practise biosecurity by washing your hands in between tending to your two tanks. This way, you keep your existing pets free from the risk of illness.

So, how long to quarantine a reptile? There are various opinions, with some keepers recommending up to six months. However, the consensus is a minimum of 90 days, with a vet exam before you introduce your new reptile to the communal tank.

9. Lighting

Appropriate lighting isn't just about heat and, well, light. It's the type of lighting that matters, too.

Reptiles need exposure to both UVA and UVB rays. UVB is essential for calcium absorption and bone health in many reptiles, so check your bulbs before you invest.

10. Day/night cycle

One of the biggest reptile tank setup mistakes concerns providing a proper day/night cycle. Whether your reptile is diurnal (awake during the day), nocturnal (awake during the night), or crepuscular (awake at dawn and dusk), it requires a proper simulation of day and night to maintain its circadian rhythm and support its natural behaviours.

So, don't leave your tank's lights on 24/7. Rather, adopt a 12 hours on, 12 hours off system, or whatever is recommended for your specific species.

11. Water

Choosing a water dish might not seem like a big deal, but there are a few things to consider. Firstly, material; a plastic dish might be upturned by a larger reptile, while a glass one, though stable and easy to clean, could potentially break. Furthermore, smaller lizards and snakes will want a shallow bowl, whereas a water turtle would want a deeper, larger dish.

A dish that is too deep risks drowning, while one that is too small or hard to access could lead to dehydration.

12. Overcrowding

Make sure your tank is the right size for the number of reptiles you want to keep there. Overcrowding can lead to stress, aggression, or illness, especially if your chosen reptile is a solitary species. Speak to a specialist at a reputable reptile store or a vet for advice, as this will inform the tank size, or indeed the reptile species, you buy.

If one of your reptiles becomes aggressive to its tankmates and the tank size is confirmed appropriate, you can try rearranging rocks and other features to mix up established territories, or even remove the aggressor.

13. Hiding places

Your reptile tank needs to be an appropriate playground for its scaly inhabitants. That means its features should satisfy your reptile's need to climb, bask, burrow, and hide as appropriate. After all, reptiles need both stimulation and security.

Substrate will come into this, but ensuring you have an appropriate offering of climbing structures, hides, and even reptile-safe live plants will help avoid stress and boredom.

14. Food

Before you bring your reptilian pal home, make sure you've adequately researched and prepared their menu. While it might seem most stimulating to offer live prey to tap into hunting instincts, you should proceed with caution: some reptiles need live prey, others don’t.

What's more, reptile species have a diverse range of dietary needs. There are so many surprising things that turtles can eat, like blackberries and crickets. Then you have insect-eating geckos or the meat-only diet of corn snakes. It's important to research thoroughly, as an improper diet can lead to malnutrition or obesity.

15. Cleaning

Infrequent tank cleaning is a big no-no. As a rule, reptile tanks should be deep cleaned weekly, which involves the removal of all enclosure contents to clean and replace or throw away, plus disinfecting the tank itself. Tanks should also be spot-cleaned daily, which involves removing dung and urine, wiping up spills, and clearing shed skin and uneaten food. Water should also be changed daily.

Neglecting spot cleans and deep cleans leads to odor, bacterial buildup, and potential health issues.

16. Handling

New reptiles need time to adjust, and frequent handling causes stress. You might be keen to bond with your new reptile, but handling them too much, too soon can harm the process. Be patient, give him time, and then gently encourage more interaction.

17. Knowlegde

As we've covered extensively in this list, each reptile species has specific needs. Whether you're a total reptile-owning newbie or have vast experience with one or two other species, don't rely on guesswork or aesthetics when you buy a new reptile. Consult reputable experts, like specialist reptile stores, vets, and the sources they recommend, and you can't go far wrong.

18. Safety

Tank décor needs to be appropriate, so don't be fooled by a deal you see online somewhere. Sharp objects, loose rocks, or unstable logs can injure your reptile, so while a viral reptile toy might be half off, your pet's safety is priceless. If possible, go to a store to 'try before you buy', and ask for expert advice while you're there.

19. Room to grow

Do you know the adult size of your new reptile? Misjudging growth size happens more often than you think, and some reptiles grow much larger than expected. Don't rush into buying a tank, and make sure you plan for adult size when choosing one. It may dwarf your new pet when they first arrive, but you don't want to cultivate the best reptile environment only to have to buy a new tank and start from scratch again!

20. Getting help

In this day and age, misinformation can spread like wildfire online. Not everything you see on Google is accurate, and as a general rule, you should look for further evidence if you come across a source that seems to scaremonger or be too good to be true. Use reputable reptile care guides or vet-approved sources where credentials are clear and verifiable.

Read next: Best toys for pet lizards

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

From their ability to change color to the fact that they can pretty much sleep in any position, there is no shortage of interesting facts about bearded dragons.

These reptiles, more informally known as beardies, are one of the most fascinating creatures to be kept as pets – and we don't say this lightly. For starters, they are known (and loved) for having anthropomorphic body language, which helps them communicate to you and other reptiles how they are feeling. They're also known for puffing up their beard as a means of communication, too.

One fact you might not know is that with the best bearded dragon care, these reptiles tend to live longer in domestic settings than they do in the wild. But that's only if you tick off their very specific care requirements, like feeding them a varied diet and keeping their vivarium at the right temperature.

To discover some more interesting facts about these captivating reptiles, keep reading.

32 facts about bearded dragons

1. Bearded dragons hail from Australia

Bearded dragons originate from Australia, so if you are thinking of adopting one then you’ll need to ensure you have everything (and more) your beardie will require to thrive in a different climate.

For example, you’ll need to give them the right habitat to survive, so everything from the right humidity levels to the temperature and lighting to enough water – these are all necessary factors to take into consideration before welcoming one into your home.

2. There are eight types of bearded dragons

They include the Central Bearded Dragon, Eastern Bearded Dragon, Western Bearded Dragon, Nullarbor Bearded Dragon, Rankin’s Dragon or Lawson’s Dragon, Small-scaled Bearded Dragon, Abrolhos Dwarf Bearded Dragon, and Mitchell’s Bearded Dragon. Experts say all domesticated dragons have been bred from these eight types of bearded dragons.

3. There is one type that makes the best pet

While there might be eight different types of beardies, there is one type of dragon that makes for the best pet: and that's those bred from the Central and the Western (Pogona minor), and the Eastern bearded dragon (Pogona barbata). That’s because these types of dragons have similar needs.

4. Other types are best suited to more experienced owners

While other breeds of bearded dragons can make great pets, they are best suited to those who have had a reptile before.

It's also best to avoid bearded dragons that are advertised as ‘pygmy’ as these are not a recognized morph type.

5. Beardies are friendly

With their scaly skin and their rough beards, bearded dragons might not look like the friendliest of reptiles. But this couldn’t be further from the truth. Beardies are actually quite friendly, which is why they’ve been kept as pets in the US for more than 30 years.

They can also form strong attachments to their humans – so it’s no wonder they have grown in popularity.

6. Bearded dragons can eat dandelions

Wondering what do bearded dragons eat? Well, they might hail from Australia, but they are partial to something simple like dandelion greens. Just remember if you are foraging for your beardie, you’ll need to wash plants thoroughly.

7. Bearded dragons can live for up to 12 years

Unsure of how long bearded dragons live? If well looked after and properly cared for, bearded dragons tend to have an average lifespan of eight to 12 years. Though some breeds may live less while others may live longer.

8. They can communicate with their head

If you’ve studied a bearded dragon before you might have spotted their rather interesting anthropomorphic body language that involves them arm waving and head bobbing.

It’s believed these human-like behaviors help beardies to communicate. For example, these characteristics can help them signal interest in mating, display dominance, or show another beardie who is boss. Told you they are fascinating!

9. They can run pretty fast

Legend has it that bearded dragons can run up to 9mph, however, domesticated beardies will barely trot this fast. Instead, you’re much more likely to spot your bearded dragon living a very relaxed and sedentary lifestyle.

10. They can change color

Another character trait they are well known for? Similar to chameleons, which are another type of reptile you can keep as a pet, bearded dragons can change colors.

However, what makes the bearded dragon stand out is that it can isolate what areas it decides to change color. A beardie might change color in the neck region due to social interactions where changes to the back area could be linked to temperature regulation.

11. They need lots of enrichment

Along with having the right temperature requirements and proper habitat, bearded dragons need lots of enrichment to ensure their health is kept in tip-top condition.

But you won’t have to spend a fortune to ensure they are kept amused. For example, you could take your beardie for a walk, a swim, or let your bearded dragon watch TV with you.

It’s also a wise idea to buy some of the best bearded dragon toys to keep them entertained when you can’t be there.

12. Bearded dragons can climb trees

Bearded dragons might spend a huge proportion of their time on the ground, but they are expert tree climbers and will tend to do so when they spot food or if they’re hiding from a predator.

Beardies might also seek out higher heights when they are in search of some sun, to get their all-important hit of vitamin D.

13. You can tell how they are feeling by their chin

A bearded dragon’s all-important beard is another way that these fascinating creatures communicate.

The reptiles can puff out their beard or change the color of it and this could indicate various things, like feeling threatened, stressed, or aroused.

14. Bearded dragons are illegal in Hawaii

It's true! If you’re thinking of getting a beardie but you live in Hawaii – think again!

Bearded dragons are prohibited in Hawaii as they are considered to be an ‘invasive species’ that could disrupt the state's ecosystem.

15. They’re tiny when born

When first born these little hatchlings are around three inches long and weigh only a few grams. However, according to the RSPCA when fully grown, bearded dragons can grow to around 45cm, so they’ll need enough space to roam around.

Therefore a vivarium that’s 120cm long x 60cm high x 60 cm wide is the minimum size required.

16. They can sleep in all types of positions

This includes standing up! Whether it’s propped up against a tree trunk, or leaning against the glass wall of their vivarium, these fascinating creatures aren’t precious about where they catch some ZZZs.

17. They like to be left alone

Bearded dragons tend to exist in solitude in the wild and when they are adopted into captivity, this is no different.

So as long as you are on top of their care, you've invested in the right food, and are providing light and heat, they’ll love spending time in their vivarium – alone!

18. Their waste is different

Another bizarre fact about bearded dragons? While humans and most other animals might urinate, a bearded dragon passes ‘powder’ called ‘urate’, which is white in color and has a chalky paste texture.

These clever creatures do this as a way to retain water, which was needed if they were living in the very hot Australian outback.

19. They can brumate

You might not have heard of this before. But according to the RSPCA, bearded dragons will tend to eat less, and generally slow down during the cooler months of the year. Some people describe this as a type of hibernation, but for lizards, this behavior is called brumation.

20. They love the warmth

Keeping your reptile warm is a key part of bearded dragon care. Seeing as bearded dragons typically hail from sunny Australia, your beardie, which is cold-blooded, will need warm temperatures to thrive.

To help them raise their body temperatures they rely on external heat sources like the best reptile heating pads.

21. They aren’t picky eaters

Beardies are partial to a varied diet. Seeing as they are technically omnivores, these reptiles can eat a range of fruits, vegetables, greens, and insects.

They are particularly partial to brown crickets as bearded dragons find them easy to catch and digest. While mealworms, cockroaches or wax worms can be given as a treat every now and then.

22. They are territorial

One common trait of a bearded dragon is that they are known for being territorial. Whether they are competing for food, defending their ground against another male, or throwing their hat into the ring for a female, beardies can show aggression when they feel like another bearded dragon is encroaching on their space.

23. Males like to impress females

To get the attention of a female bearded dragon and impress her as a potential mate, a male will start to put on a 'show'. They do this by waving their arms, bobbing their head, ruffling their beard, and pounding their feet on the ground.

24. They can change sex

Another beguiling fact about bearded dragons? If there are high incubation temperatures when the embryo is being developed, a genetically male bearded dragon can be developed into a female beardie.

25. They have no discs

Bearded dragons have a spine, but unlike humans, they don’t have any vertebral discs. These all-important discs provide support, shock absorption, and mobility so without them, this lack of protection means beardies can damage their spines more easily.

26. They have three eyes

We're sure you would have spotted a bearded dragon’s two eyes on the side of its head. But you probably would have missed your beardies' third eye, which is hidden on the back of their head.

This third eye helps a bearded dragon detect changes in light, which can help keep them safe if a predator is approaching.

27. They are venomous

Did you know that bearded dragons are venomous? These types of reptiles produce the toxin crotamine in their mouth glands, which is the same substance that was previously known only from rattlesnake venom. But before you panic, you'll be pleased to know that this poison isn't potent enough to harm humans.

28. They shouldn’t be housed together

As we mentioned, bearded dragons are solitary scale friends. Housing more than two together results in one dragon taking the dominant role, eating the food, water and other necessary vivarium features like the heating pads, which bearded dragons need to survive.

In some cases, males may even fight. Therefore, if you intend to keep more than one beardie, keeping them in separate enclosures is best.

29. They live longer in captivity than in the wild

In the US, bearded dragons are bred in captivity because vets have found that with the right TLC, these domesticated creatures can live longer than their counterparts in the wild.

Domestic beardies can live around eight to 10 years, or longer, while the typical lifespan for a wild reptile of this kind is anywhere between four to eight years because of lack of consistent food, water, and veterinary care.

30. They smell with their tongue

It comes as no surprise to hear that humans capture small tiny particles through their nose that their brain interprets as odor.

But bearded dragons do this via their tongue. If you’ve adopted a beardie you probably would have spotted them poking out their tongue to capture scent particles in the air. That’s because they have a 'Jacobson's organ' on the roof of their mouth allowing them to detect chemical signals.

31. They have a three-chambered heart

Unlike our friends in the fish world who have a two-chambered heart, or mammals, like dogs, cats, or humans who have a four-chambered heart – bearded dragons are reptiles and therefore have a three-chambered heart.

32. They have interesting behavior

If there’s one reptile that’s simply fascinating, it’s the beloved bearded dragon. From its anthropomorphic body language, like head bobbing or waving to beardies ‘glass surfing’ i.e. standing up on their hind legs with their paws on the side of the vivarium – bearded dragons really are a one-of-a-kind animal and, if you adopt one, the fascination with your scaly friend will never end.

Wondering how long can bearded dragons go without heat? We asked a vet and here is what they had to say.

Caring for tortoises, aquatic turtles, and terrapins means getting their meals just right – and that’s not as straightforward as tossing them a few leaves! These cool reptiles have some seriously varied appetites. Some are all about munching on veggies, plants, and the occasional fruit, while others are happy to feast on a combo of greens, insects, and even fish. Whether you’re a proud tortoise owner or taking care of a playful aquatic turtle, understanding what your reptile buddy can safely eat is the key to good pet turtle care.

Let’s take a look at a snapshot of the huge variety of potential foods for your shelly friends, covering everything from crunchy greens, pretty flowers, and garden weeds for herbivores, to protein-packed creepy crawlies for omnivores.

One of our top tips for taking care of pet turtles is understanding the unique diets of aquatic turtles and terrapins, whose nutritional needs and desires are slightly different from those of land-dwelling tortoises. Always consult an expert in Chelonians (the official term for this group of shelled reptiles) if you’re unsure, but with a little knowledge, you can make sure your reptile is getting the right balance of nutrients to grow strong shells, stay active, and enjoy a long life.

32 things pet turtles can eat

1. Turtle pellets

Commercial turtle pellets are the obvious choice of feed. These diets are designed to be nutritionally complete, to meet the turtle’s needs in terms of vitamins, minerals, and micronutrients. The range of this dry food varies so that you can select according to your pet’s need, whether it’s an aquatic turtle or a tortoise, or for hatchlings, juniors, and so on.

2. Scotch thistle

Hardly the most palatable of textures, but Scotch thistle is an excellent source of calcium, potassium, vitamin B, and omega-6. It’s not the best choice for very young tortoises, as the spines may be troublesome so stick to the softer young leaves for them. The older folk will enjoy the whole plant, root, flowers and all.

3. Earthworms

If you have an omnivorous turtle, they will love the blend of fat, protein, and succulence that an earthworm provides. On the other hand, tortoises – or land turtles – tend to be vegetarian, so they are less appropriate, even if they might pick one up when trundling across the yard.

4. Crickets

Many turtles enjoy the crunch of a high-fiber, high-protein cricket, which has good nutritional content for the omnivorous brigade. Insects in general are an excellent choice for amphibious turtles, as enrichment as much as for their dietary benefits, such as boosting their digestion.

5. Blackberries

Blackberries are a popular treat for many of fruit-eaters, although the berries themselves should be fed sparingly as they are high in sugar, and they are not suitable for all turtles and tortoises. They do contain useful vitamins. Bramble leaves are fine to feed in moderation, though not every turtle loves the taste.

6. Kale

Dark leafy greens such as kale are often feted as excellent turtle food, as they are highly nutritious veggie sources, packed with vitamins and minerals. However, it should be fed in moderation as it can cause digestive upset.

7. Pansies

The colorful pansy – leaves and flowers – is suitable for all tortoise species. However, don’t feed them plants recently bought from a garden center as they may be sprayed with harmful insecticides. Instead, wait for new growth – these are a serious turtle delicacy.

8. Dandelions

Dandelions – flowers and leaves – are often listed as safe for turtles to eat, and they provide plenty of vitamins and fatty acids. However, they are high in oxalates, so don’t let your tortoise binge on them. More suitable are the similar-looking yellow flowers hawkbit (or “false dandelion”) and oxtongue.

9. Mealworms

For omnivorous turtles, mealworms provide protein, fiber and fat, as well as being rich in amino acids. Don’t pick them out of the garden though; dried mealworms are inexpensive from the pet shop, and a safer bet as they are much less likely to harbor disease.

10. Melon

Melons – canteloupe, watermelon, honeydew, among others – are a huge treat for many types of turtle, although not all species can handle the high-sugar content. Like us, they often have a sweet tooth (or, being toothless, more accurately “sweet beak”), and these juicy morsels should be reserved as special titbits, not a main part of their diet.

11. Guava

Fruit-eating tortoises, such as box turtles, tend to love the sweet taste of guava and can eat it in small amounts.

12. Lambs’ lettuce

Often found in salad bags, but also a common weed growing in the wild, lambs’ lettuce is fine to feed tortoises as part of a mixed diet. While iceberg lettuce has little nutritional value, these darker leaves are more beneficial. It also floats well in a tank for our aquatic friends.

13. Banana

Yes, fruit-eating turtles can eat bananas and even with the skin on – it has added nutritional benefits. However, while the potassium boost is good, bananas should be offered in strict moderation as it’s addictively sweet. One fun fact about pet turtles is that they can have a sweet tooth.

14. Reptile stick food

Floating food sticks are a staple for aquatic turtles, who benefit from the precise nutritional content they provide. They’re specially formulated to meet reptilian needs, with high-quality protein, amino acids, calcium, and vitamins – and they’re designed to be tasty.

15. Bloodworms

Bloodworms are a great protein source for many types of reptiles and fish, including aquatic turtles. You can feed it live – just watch them wriggle – or in tiny frozen blocks which you defrost before dropping in the tank.

16. Daphnia

Also known as water fleas, these small planktonic crustaceans are a staple food for growing aquatic turtles. You can feed them live, freeze-dried, or frozen (defrosted). And don’t worry about the flea bit – they don’t have any mechanisms to sting or bite.

17. Roses

Many varieties of roses are safe for tortoises to eat, such as wild roses, hibiscus (Chinese rose), rock roses, and normal garden roses. This includes petals and leaves. As with all flowers, don’t feed roses directly from florists or garden centers in case they are sprayed with harmful insecticides.

18. Radish

Most kinds of radish – wild, pink, and white – can be fed in moderation to many tortoises. However, this family does contain glucosinolates, which can cause damage if it is a major part of their diet, so stick to small portions.

19. Zucchini

Fruit-eating tortoises can enjoy the main zucchini, while the short-lived flowers are also edible. Many of our shelly friends love the crunch factor.

20. Romaine lettuce

Romaine lettuce has a high water content, and therefore doesn’t offer great nutritional value, but is fine to feed in moderation. In comparison to iceberg lettuce, it contains more vitamins A, C, E, calcium, and fiber, and tortoises tend to enjoy the texture.

21. Feeder fish

Live fish offer environmental enrichment for an aquatic turtle’s dinner, mirroring what it might find in the wild. Feeder fish such as guppies, platies, and swordtails are ideal, while oily fish should be avoided due to their high levels of unsaturated fatty acids.

22. Eggshells

Did you think eggshells were just good for making compost? Turns out the high calcium carbonate content of a boiled eggshell helps tortoises build strong shells. Shells for shells.

23. Prickly pear

The pads of prickly pear cacti are good for turtles to eat, being high in calcium, and they tend to relish the taste and texture. This variety of cactus tends to be less spiky than others, so more palatable.

24. Grass

Many types of grass are safe to feed turtles, from pampas, barley, and wheat to oats, cats, timothy, and fescue. In fact, for land turtles grass is a staple. Although it isn’t massively nutritious it’s good for grazing. Just make sure it has no fertilizer or insecticide lingering.

25. Clover

Red and white clover contains a lot of protein, but it’s safe to feed in moderation (except for Mediterranean tortoises which require a low-protein diet for healthy shell growth). Clover also contains nutritious vitamins, including A and B.

26. Snails

Aquatic turtles in particular benefit from eating snails, which provide nutritious calcium for their shell growth. The caveat is that they do not carry parasites, which is fairly common. Snails are a tasty delicacy for a turtle – anyone for escargots?

27. Grasshoppers

Grasshoppers can be bought in a tub as a supplementary treat for your turtle, providing a naturally high-protein food, which they tend to adore.

28. Cucumber

Crunchy but watery, cucumbers offer little in the way of nutrition – but they do contain some fiber, minerals, and vitamins. Where they are really valuable is in helping hydration or hiding meds as they make a popular treat.

29. Mango

It’s no surprise that fruit-eating turtles love mangoes – who doesn’t enjoy their exotic, sweet, and juicy taste? It’s sticky and contains a lot of sugar, so reserve it for special occasions.

30. Apple

Apples should be fed sparingly, but they go down extremely well as a sweet morsel for fruit-eating turtles. Remove the pips, which contain the toxin cyanide, before offering this delicacy.

31. Slugs

Many box turtle owners report that slugs are their shelly friends’ favorite food. At one time, these turtles were even kept in gardens to control the slug population. These juicy creatures actually make a nutritious addition to the diet, thanks to their protein, vitamin, and mineral content – and they even pack a quick hydration boost. However, they can carry parasites and might have had exposure to pesticides.

32. Deadnettle

Deadnettle – purple, yellow, spotted, or white – is a safe food for tortoises, but don’t confuse it for the very similar henbit, which is not good to feed. Not all turtles love deadnettle, but it provides iron, and vitamins such as A, C, and K.

Feeding a pet turtle or tortoise may seem simple – just offer a mix of vegetables, the odd fruity treat, a bit of meat here and there or scraps from the table. But there’s more to it than meets the eye. When it comes to what do pet turtles eat, these reptiles have specific dietary needs shaped by what they’d naturally eat in the wild, and not all foods – nor all turtles – are created equal. One of the amazing turtle facts is that some turtle species are meat eaters, others omnivores, happily munching on a variety of meat, fish, and plants, while many types stick strictly to vegetation.

And what’s safe for us to eat can be harmful to them; even common plants can be toxic to turtles and tortoises due to compounds they can’t break down. To keep them healthy, it’s crucial to understand what’s safe and what isn’t. In the wild, turtles and tortoises know what to avoid, but in captivity, they depend on us to make those decisions. The wrong foods – even seemingly harmless fruits or veggies, or processed snacks we enjoy – can lead to digestive issues or even life-threatening conditions.

Let us guide you through some of the foods that are off-limits for your shelled friend, helping you to replicate their natural diet as closely as possible, for a long and healthy life.

32 foods pet turtles should not eat

1. Processed meat

Even if you have a carnivorous or omnivorous turtle, processed meat such as salami, sausage, and bacon, could be harmful. These meats tend to contain preservatives such as nitrates, salt, and other chemicals which are unhealthy for a turtle’s digestive system. You wouldn’t find anything resembling processed meat in the wild – which is a good all-round tip.

2. Bread

Most starchy carbs have no nutritional benefit to turtles, and the denseness of bread makes it difficult for turtles to digest – plus if it’s a commercial loaf, it’s likely to contain preservatives.

3. Oranges

While the effects of citrus fruits on turtles are not precisely known, it is likely that the sugar and acid will upset their natural gut flora. They are high in oxalates which can lead to health issues.

4. Avocado

All parts of the avocado – flesh, roots, leaves, bark, flower, stone, and peel – are toxic to tortoises, producing moderate to severe gastric upset thanks to the presence of persin. This is dangerous for other reptiles and amphibians so don’t risk it on your turtle.

5. Lemon

As with other citrus fruits such as grapefruit, orange and satsuma, the active ingredients in lemons can cause gastric problems in many animals, and most probably turtles, too. High in sugar and acid, they are likely to upset the natural gut flora.

6. Corn

While the leaves of maize are turtle-edible, the corn itself (either the ears or cobs) can produce a serious, sometimes fatal, reaction. Sweetcorn is very high in phosphorus, protein, and sugars, which can ferment in the gut.

7. Daffodils

Daffodils and their cousin the narcissus adorn our gardens and wild areas in springtime, but keep your tortoise away from these appealing flowers, which can have violent effects on our shelly friends. All parts of daffodils are poisonous, causing vomiting, diarrhea and even seizures, which can cause damage to the nervous system and heart.

8. Mackerel

Aquatic turtles enjoy a bit of fish in their diet, but oily types such as mackerel are very high in fat, which can upset their nutritional balance, and lead to vitamin E deficiency. Watch out, because they love the smell and taste of it.

9. Iceberg lettuce

It’s an iconic picture, a happy tortoise chomping on a pile of lettuce, but iceberg letttuce is not an ideal meal. While it’s not poisonous, it has very low nutritional value and they’d benefit more from some more colorful leaves, such as radicchio or red leaf lettuce. However, if they need hydrating, the iceberg could do the job.

10. Cheese

In the wild, turtles would never eat dairy products and cheese is no exception. It is too high in protein, fat, and energy, and turtles are actually lactose-intolerant, meaning they cannot digest it properly.

11. Chocolate

We hear you – why would anyone deny their friend a square of chocolate? Alas, chocolate is toxic to most animals. It contains theobromine, caffeine, sugar, and dairy – all of which are off-limits for turtles. All the more for you then...

12. Nuts

Nuts are a natural food that you should never feed your turtle. They contain phytic acid, which inhibits calcium absorption – which is absolutely essential for turtles to thrive, as a lack of calcium can lead to metabolic bone disease.

13. Garlic

Garlic, whether the cloves or the leaves and flowers of wild garlic, is not advisable fodder for turtles. The odd nibble might not do them severe harm, but as a general rule plants from bulbs are not appropriate.

14. Candy

Candy has no nutritional benefits for any living creatures, and certainly not for turtles, who would never find a sherbet lemon in the wild! And while turtles don’t have teeth to rot, the high sugar content and minimal nutritional value of candy means it has no benefits.

15. Chillis

These hot and spicy peppers are from the same family as deadly nightshade and contains capsaicin, which is an irritant. Tortoises tend to gravitate towards red food, so don’t let them anywhere near chilies or you’ll have a fire-breathing reptile on your hands.

16. Broccoli

What could be wrong with the superfood broccoli? Plenty, if you’re a turtle. This vegetable contains goitrogens, which mess up turtles’ thyroid activity and can result in liver or kidney stones.

17. Cabbage

Like broccoli, cabbage comes from the Brassica family, and so while not fatally toxic, it can cause liver and kidney damage. Avoid all forms of cabbage – red, savoy, white and sweetheart.

18. Buttercups

Some owners report their turtles eating buttercups with no ill health, but there is also a buttercup fatality on record after eating large quantities, so tread carefully around this golden little flower. Mildly toxic but not worth the risk.

19. Rhubarb

Rhubarb is a chancy vegetable even for humans – we can eat the stalks but not the leaves. However, for tortoises, even the pretty pink stalks are a no-go area. This plant is high in oxalic acid, preventing calcium absorption and causing damage to various vital organs.

20. Currants

The leaves of red, white, and blackcurrants contain hydrogen cyanide which – as the name suggests – is highly poisonous. A nibble of a leaf is unlikely to cause damage, but it’s best to steer clear. However, for fruit-eating tortoises, the berries are tolerated in small quantities but due their bitterness they don’t tend to be particularly popular.

21. Eggplant

Eggplants are highly toxic, and especially the leaves. In common with other nightshade plants, they contain solanine, which is potentially fatal, causing gastrointestinal and neurological disorders.

22. Onion

Onions are toxic to a range of animals, including birds, horses, and dogs. In common with other plants grown from bulbs, it is likely they could cause serious illness in tortoises as well.

23. Pomegranate

This jewel-like gourd isn’t actually toxic, and some fruit-eaters can tolerate it. However, it contains a lot of tannins, which can interfere with iron, zinc, and calcium absorption.

24. Tomato

Tomatoes come from the nightshade family, and contain toxic alkaloids. Unripe fruit, leaves and stems are especially poisonous, while even ripe fruit has little nutritional benefit, so it is not recommended. While fruit-eating tortoises tend to enjoy the taste, tomatoes are high in sugar and phosphorous, low in calcium and fiber – the polar opposite to what a turtle needs.

25. Parsnip

This root vegetable contains a chemical that can cause photosensitivity in some livestock and despite the different nature of a turtle’s skin it is not recommended in their diet. Parsnips are high-carb and have an unfavorable ratio of calcium to phosphorus.

26. Gooseberries

Like currants, gooseberry leaves contain hydrogen cyanide which may cause serious problems. Fruit-eaters may be able to tolerate small amounts of the prickly green fruit, although they will probably only find them palatable when they’re super ripe and turning pink, and they’re hard to separate from their leaves.

27. Mushrooms

It should go without saying that the terrifying red toadstool is highly poisonous, and many mushrooms are toxic to varying degrees. Edible mushrooms are high in protein and should only be fed sparingly if at all, and only to certain species that can tolerate the protein levels.

28. Bean sprouts

This human health-food has the opposite effect on our shelly friends, being far too high in protein for their good. Excessive levels of protein can cause too much growth, which can lead to shell deformities and metabolic bone disease as well as overtaxing the kidneys. Many sprouting beans also contain phytic acid which inhibits calcium absorption, so they have no place in a turtle diet.

29. Cookies

Your turtle will probably gobble up a chunk of cookie with alacrity, but it won’t do him in any good. Turtles are high in fat and sugar, potentially contain toxic chocolate and dairy, which is not well tolerated. Keep the cookie to yourself.

30. Spinach

While dark leafy greens generally get the thumbs-up on the turtle dinner plate, spinach is an anomaly. It does contain plenty of calcium, like other leafy greens, but this is nullified by its oxalic acid, which prevents the calcium from being absorbed. Back to square one.

It also contains calcium oxalate crystals which can cause irritation to the skin, mouth, and throat.

31. Crab sticks

Don’t confuse reptile sticks with crab sticks. Reptile sticks are specially made for aquatic reptiles, providing all the nutrients they need. Crab sticks, on the other hand, are a processed snack for humans. Although turtles may enjoy real crab meat, the high levels of processing and preservatives in crab sticks make them unsuitable for turtles.

32. Yogurt

Turtles do not digest dairy products – even plain yogurt. They never encounter dairy in the wild, so their digestive systems are not set up to cope with it.

Bearded dragons can make great pets, but they have quite specific dietary needs that you should be aware of before you take one on. They are omnivores, meaning they can eat a variety of fruits, vegetables, greens, and insects.

When it comes to bearded dragon care, offering them foods that are suitable for them is key. If you feel uncomfortable feeding your pets live prey, you might want to skip owning a bearded dragon, as they enjoy hunting for their food. Storing or breeding live prey requires some skill in itself, so bear this in mind if considering a bearded dragon or other pet that consumes live prey.

When it comes to how long do bearded dragons live, the answer is eight to 12 years with the right diet and living conditions. So keep this list handy when you're thinking of what to feed your scaly friend.

32 things to feed your bearded dragon

1. Dandelion

A staple for bearded dragons and it's something you can find in your garden for free are dandelion greens. Be careful if foraging for your pet and ensure you wash any plants from hedgerows or near roads thoroughly. Don't pick if you know herbicides are used in an area.

2. Clover

Another fantastic and free food that your bearded dragon will enjoy is clover. The leaves are nutritious, but the high-fiber flowers are likely to be a favorite for your pet. Again, be careful with herbicides, dog urine, and agricultural runoff when foraging for your dragon's dinner.

3. Plantain

There are different varieties of plantain, including ribwort plantain and broad-leaf plantain. These are considered weeds and can be found growing abundantly in meadows and on verges. Be sure of your identification when picking wild plants.

4. Watercress

Watercress is something you can grow for your pet that you might enjoy in your own salads. This peppery green plant is delicious for humans and bearded dragons alike. Be sure to chop finely when serving for your pet.

5. Arugula

Arugula is another peppery plant beloved by humans and bearded dragons alike. However, be sure to feed this one in moderation, as it contains goiterogens, which can impact thyroid funtion in dragons.

6. Crickets

You can purchase crickets live, frozen, dried, or freeze-dried. For the enrichment live prey provides for your bearded dragon, we recommend feeding live crickets, but in a pinch dried or frozen will do. Ensure you thaw anything you feed your reptile as they are cold-blooded.

7. Butternut squash

Bearded dragons love squash, and the most common variety you will find in the supermarket is butternut squash. Serve this cooked or raw, but make sure to chop it into dragon-bite-sized pieces.

8. Calciworms

"Calciworms" offer a good source of calcium for your bearded dragon, making them a nutritionally rich feeding choice. These are black soldier fly larvae that can be fed live and stored in the fridge.

9. Mealworms

Mealworms are cheap, abundant, and easy to find in the pet store. You won't need to find a reptile specialist, as mealworms are a favorite of birds and fish as well as reptiles.

10. Kingworms

Kingworms are another live feed you can purchase for your bearded dragon. Retailers like Amazon sell these beetle larvae in bulk and they do not need refrigeration (this will kill them) to stay fresh. They will not pupate when in the company of other larvae, so store them together in a plastic container.

11. Butterworms

Butterworms are the larvae of the Chilean moth, also known as Tebo worms. They make a great treat for your bearded dragon and will go to sleep when stored in the fridge, reactivating when brought back to room temperature so your pet can have them.

12. Silkworms

You can buy silkworms dried or fresh. They are soft-bodied making them easy for your bearded dragon to chew and are a great source of protein and polyunsaturated fats.

13. Cockroaches

As a seasoned reptile keeper, you may decide to breed cockroaches yourself. Dubia roaches are good for this, as they require high temperatures and humidity in order to breed so they won't infest your home if they escape. Females give birth to about 25 nymphs every 65 days, which will take three to four months to reach maturity. They are fast-moving, so enriching for your bearded dragon to hunt.

14. Hornworms

The bane of every gardener's life, tomato hornworms are destructive, but delicious if you're a bearded dragon. If you grow plants from the nightshade family such as tomatoes, peppers, or potatoes, you are likely to encounter a hornworm at some point. Thankfully, you can pluck them off your plants and feed them to your bearded dragon (so long as you don't use pesticides).

15. Asparagus

Raw asparagus is great for bearded dragons and something they can eat daily. You can also cook the asparagus, as this reduces the amount of oxalates, although it is generally thought to be better to raw feed them.

16. Peeled cucumber

Cucumber skin is difficult for bearded dragons to digest, but if you peel them before serving, they can make a nice snack for your pet. The high water content means they can fill up your bearded dragon's stomach without giving them much nutritional benefit.

17. Celery

Bearded dragons enjoy celery, but must only have this in moderation, as the oxalate content is high, which can lead to kidney problems. Similar to cucumber, the high water content means celery can fill your pet up without serving them much by way of nutritional content.

18. Zucchini

As with cucumber and celery, zucchini can be fed to your bearded dragon raw, and in moderation. Serve in a salad with other nutritious fruits and vegetables.

19. Okra

Okra is a chewy vegetable, but bearded dragons have strong jaws and usually will have no issue chewing it. Chop it up small to make it easier for your pet to consume.

20. Bell peppers

Bell peppers can be served to your bearded dragon a few times a month, but the high oxalate content means they are unsuitable for daily feeding. Green and yellow are better than red peppers.

21. Cabbage

Your bearded dragon can have a small amount of cabbage once a week. Go for the outer leaves over the harder inner core of the cabbage when preparing a meal for your pet, as this will be easier for them to digest.

22. Chicory

Chicory is a beautiful plant that grows vigorously without much tending. This makes it a great option to grow in a pot and add to your bearded dragon's salads. You can also wild forage it if you are confident in your skills of identification.

23. Apples

Small slices of peeled apple are likely to go down a treat with your bearded dragon. They shouldn't have fruit every day, as it has a high sugar content that can be unhealthy for them, but in moderation can add variety to your pet's diet.

24. Berries

In moderation, your bearded dragon will enjoy berries such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries. Too much can cause obesity and digestive issues, so be sure to keep an eye on your pet's stools when they've had fruit and adjust accordingly.

25. Mango

Mango should be a rare treat, but your dragon is likely to enjoy the soft, sweet fruit. It is a good source of vitamins, but high in calories, so exercise moderation when feeding to your pet.

26. Papaya

Papaya is safe for bearded dragons, but again, the high sugar content means it should not be a daily food. Fruit should make up no more than 5% of a bearded dragon's diet.

27. Raisins

Bearded dragons can eat raisins — but that doesn't mean they should. Unlike with other pets, you don't need to panic if your bearded dragon accidentally consumes a raisin, as it isn't toxic for them, but avoid deliberately feeding high-sugar dried fruit.

28. Prunes

Prunes can be a great natural remedy for constipation. If your beardy is struggling to pass stool, adding small amounts of prune to their food may help move things along.

29. Pears

Pears can make a good occasional treat for your bearded dragon, but they are high in sugar and oxalates, making them unsuitable as a daily treat.

30. Watermelon

Your dragon is likely to enjoy a small piece of watermelon, but ensure you feed in moderation and only the pink fleshy parts, as the rind is difficult for them to chew and can cause digestive problems. Remove seeds before serving.

31. Plums

Plums are another fruit that bearded dragons can have as a treat. Ensure that the fruit is ripe and the flesh soft to make it easier for your dragon to chew, but don't give it to them too often as it is high in sugar.

32. Figs

Figs can make a nice treat for bearded dragons and they have a good ratio of calcium to phosphorus but are also relatively high in oxalates, so shouldn't be given too often.

Want to hear some fun facts about pet turtles? How about this? Did you know there are more than 350 species of turtle living in the world – on land, in the sea, and in freshwater? Turtles are fascinating creatures, from their prehistoric origins to their fantabulous bony shell, as unique to each turtle as a fingerprint.

A pet turtle might be an appealing addition to a household, but they require specialist care which is not to be undertaken lightly. Whether the “turtle” is indeed a turtle, terrapin, or tortoise, they have common physical traits and major differences – as well as having different classifications depending on where in the world you’re based. Although, one thing they will have in common is that they will certainly enjoy one of the best fish tanks to make a home in.

Let’s take a closer look at more fun turtle facts.

32 fun facts about pet turtles

1. Turtle, tortoise or terrapin?

Regardless of whether you’re talking about turtles, terrapins, or tortoises, all three are chelonians – reptiles with shells. The nitty-gritty of which is which largely comes down to where you are having this discussion. In the UK, tortoises are land-dwellers, while turtles and terrapins are aquatic (terrapins are slightly fonder of the land than turtles).

But in the US, turtle covers all three. The American Society of Ichthyologists and Herpetologists (devoted to the scientific study of fishes, amphibians, and reptiles) uses “turtle” to describe all species of chelonians, regardless of whether land-based, marine, or freshwater, but “tortoise” is their more specific term for slow-moving terrestrial species.

2. How many bones in a shell?

The turtle’s shell is made of bone – or more accurately bones. At least 50 bones make up the shell, which consists of the domed carapace at the top, and a flatter plastron covering the belly.

3. Toothless turtles

You’ve heard the saying “As rare as hen’s teeth” – well, turtles have no teeth at all. They are the only toothless reptile. Their mouths have a hard edge like a beak that they use for biting, which is made of keratin (the same hard substance as horses’ hooves). Some turtles have more serrated beaks.

4. Feet designed for purpose

Aquatic turtles have webbed feet or flippers – to help propel them through the water. The semi-aquatic turtles that spend some time in the water, some on land, tend to have webbed feet with claws, while the fully aquatic marine turtles have flippers – and they can swim fast.

Tortoises, on the other hand, have club-like forelegs and hindlegs rather than elephants. As land-dwellers, they don’t need to propel themselves through water, rather they need strong, powerful legs to carry their heavy weight and shell around on terra firma.

5. Salmonella carriers

Turtles commonly carry the salmonella bacteria on their shell. Although this doesn’t make the turtle sick, it can cause serious, possibly fatal, infection in humans. It is the most likely germ you will catch from your pet turtle, so always wash after handling them.

6. Long life

The lifespan of a turtle is largely dependent on the species. As a general rule, tortoises live the longest, but turtles are also fairly long-lived compared to most domestic pets, assuming all their needs are met. Expect an aquatic turtle to live around 20–30 years in captivity, with some of the marine turtles living for 50 years or more. Tortoises meanwhile can live for an average of a staggering 100 years or more! Even in the wild, their shell means they are less vulnerable to predators than many other animals, so their survival rate is good.

7. How to tell the boys from the girls

When you acquire a pet turtle, you may not know what its gender is. The gender is determined by the temperature during the incubation of the egg – cooler produces males; warmer produces females. Once out in the big wide world, some types of turtles are easily distinguished by appearance – for example, by size, color, and claw length.

However, the most common way to determine turtle gender is by the tail length. Females have short, thin tails, while the males’ are longer and thicker. It’s easier to work out when you have a few of the same types to compare.

8. Egg-layers

Turtles lay and hatch from eggs – though, like hens, the females can lay eggs without mating. These eggs will not produce baby turtles. For pet turtles, unfertilized eggs should be removed and not left to rot.

9. Vitamin A demands

We all need our vitamins and turtles are no different. They cannot store vitamin A in their bodies, but it is essential for their eyes, skin, mouth, lungs, muscles, bones and reproductive system – everything! Pet turtles are particularly susceptible to vitamin A deficiency which means you need to supply vitamin A sources in its food, from veggies such as leafy greens, and colorful vegetables such as bell peppers, carrots and squash.

A lack of vitamin A can cause swollen eyelids, kidney failure, lethargy and other symptoms.

10. Owner recognition

Turtles make for rewarding pets because they can recognize the sights and sounds of their owners. Many owners notice how their turtles will gravitate toward them when they enter the room. They have good eyesight and may associate humans with feeding time – or a bit of attention and affection! No wonder they are one of the best aquarium pets that aren't fish.

11. An ancient species

Turtles have been around for over 250 million years, originating in the Triassic Period, according to the Natural History Museum, and have survived several extinction events. Fossil turtles provide evidence, as well as cave paintings and rock art.

12. Shell armor

A turtle’s shell is a very effective form of protection from predators, as they can pull their head, legs, and tail inside the shell, which makes it very difficult for the predator to attack them successfully. This almost impenetrable bony structure is fantastic at protecting them not only from predators but also from abrasion, threats in the environment, and even fire.

However, if this super strong shell is penetrated, this serious injury could be fatal, as it leaves the turtle vulnerable to infection, bacteria, and predatory attack.

13. The real meaning of “come out of your shell”

Unlike the hermit crab, the turtle cannot come out of its shell. The bony structure is part of the turtle’s skeleton and spine, fused with its bones, and therefore the turtle cannot be separated from its shell. But when the turtle is not feeling vulnerable to attack, and to move around, they will have their neck, head, legs, and tail out of their shells.

14. Easy eaters

What do pet turtles eat anyway? Turtles can be herbivores, carnivores, or omnivores depending on their species, and even their age. Some – especially the land-dwelling tortoises – are strictly vegetarian, eating plants, while others focus on animal protein. However, most eat a bit of both.

15. At risk of extinction

According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, more than half of the world’s 360 chelonian species are threatened with extinction, with many endangered, some critically. This is due to several factors, including habitat loss (due to rising sea levels and other human activities), pollution, climate change, and global trade.

16. Cold-blooded creatures

Turtles are ectothermic – cold-blooded – meaning they cannot regulate their own body temperature. Water that drops below the temperature of 50ºF will have an effect on the turtle, making them lethargic and unable to swim. For your pet turtle, make sure they have infrared lamps so they can keep appropriately warm, and also UVB light to help them produce vitamin D.

17. Earless – but can they hear?

Turtles have no ear openings – however, this doesn’t mean they can’t hear. In fact, their internal ears can hear sounds and vibrations and are particularly sensitive underwater. Turtle fans say they can even recognize their owner’s voice.

18. Where a turtle’s rib cage is

A turtle’s magnificent shell is made up of modified ribs – meaning that the carapace (or the top of the shell) is actually its ribcage. The individual ribs are fused together from the spine to form this protective armor.

19. Touchy-feely shells

Those hard armored shells aren’t as tough as they look! The shell is made of living protein – keratin – the same as our fingernails or horses’ hooves. It is sensitive to pressure and there are nerve endings in the shell, meaning turtles can feel if you scratch them, touch them, stroke them – and they feel pain. Many owners report their turtles love a good scratch!

20. From little to large

Turtles vary enormously in size according to their type. Some tiny turtles may never grow more than 1.5in long, while the humungous leatherback turtle can reach lengths of up to 8ft 10 long and weigh 1,100lb. Most pet turtles are around 5–12in long.

21. Super swimmers

Thanks to their excellent swimming skills, turtles are the fastest-moving reptiles apart from birds. The huge leatherback turtle swims at around 20mph, racking up an impressive mileage per year, though most are not as speedy. As turtles can cover large distances with their paddle-like flippers, do not skimp on tank size, so that your pet turtle can enjoy propelling themselves through the water.

22. Dealings with dinosaurs

While turtles rubbed shoulders with the dinosaurs in the Triassic Age, they managed to survive while the dinos died out. Turtles seem to have survived the mass extinctions of the prehistoric eras, likely due to their slow metabolisms (they can go some time without food), aquatic lifestyles and protective shells.

23. Spongy shells

While a soft shell is normally a cause for concern in turtles, the bone that makes up the shell is light and spongy, which enables them to float.

24. Color vision

Most turtle species have great color vision, perceiving different wavelengths of light. Researchers have found that turtles have photoreceptor cells that enable them to see in color, but it seems that different species of turtles see the full range of colors to varying degrees. This is likely to depend on their habitat and what they need to be able to see for foraging and survival.

25. Slow walkers

The fable of the hare and the tortoise gives a good impression of the pace at which the latter moves. Tortoises are one of the slowest animals on earth, moving at less than 1mph. Contrast this with the turtle’s speed in the water – up to 20mph, making it a pretty competitive swimmer.

26. Active in the daytime

Some turtles are more active at night time, but the majority are diurnal – only laying eggs under the cover of darkness. This makes for a rewarding pet, as they tend to be out and about when we humans are. Aquatic turtles can even sleep underwater for short periods!

27. The exceptional box turtle

The beautiful box turtle is in appearance more like a tortoise, in that it is terrestrial and superficially similar. However, despite its “torty” looks, it is really a type of pond turtle, and they do enjoy swimming though they do not flourish in a watery habitat.

28. Late maturers

In the wild, turtles take decades to mature, though the range in age of sexual maturity varies widely from one species to another. The smaller species tend to reach maturity as early as two or three years, while the larger ones may reach 50 years old before being reproductive.

29. How turtles breathe

Turtles, like other reptiles, breathe air, not water. They have lungs, not gills like fish, and so even if they live mostly in the water, they need to come up to the surface to breathe now and again. However, they can hold their breath for hours at a time and have special skills to save oxygen, including slowing their metabolism.

30. A global phenomenon

Turtles can be found on every continent except Antarctica. However, they are most commonly found in south-eastern North America and South Asia, with the highest concentration in the US.

31. Special care required

Although turtles have survived mass extinction events throughout history, they do require special care to look after as pets. They are high-maintenance pets, needing the right lighting, temperature, and water filtration. They live for a long time – much longer than most domestic pets – which means that good pet turtle care is a commitment for life.

32. Illegal to release them

While there are hundreds of turtle species living in nature, in most countries it is illegal to release a pet turtle into the wild. As well as being cruel to the individual turtle in your care, they may pose threats as a non-native, potentially invasive species into a new habitat, or they may introduce unfamiliar diseases. If you cannot keep your pet turtle, seek adoption programs or reptile rescue organizations.

Looking for the best pet reptiles? We've got you covered! With the help of expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, we've rounded up our top five picks for beginners and explained why they make such great pets.

Whilst these species are good for novices, getting a reptile is still a huge responsibility and a decision that you shouldn't take lightly. These creatures require special care and some of them need to be kept in very particular climates using the best reptile heating pads.

Dr. MacMillan says: "When choosing any pet, I urge any would-be pet owners to consider not only their set-up budget carefully but also to factor in any ongoing costs, such as electricity, food, and veterinary bills. Don’t rush into purchasing a pet unless you are sure that you can meet all their needs and care for them properly. And remember that reptiles can live for 10 years or more, so it is a long-term commitment."

What is the best reptile to get as a pet?

Corn snake

Corn snakes are one of the best pet reptiles, thanks to their docile personality and ease of handling. They're a lot smaller than other snake species, which you might find more favorable, growing to five feet in length. You'll get to spend lots of time with your new scaly friend as they're most active during the day.

When it comes to dinnertime, you'll need to feed them one mouse per week, according to Dr. MacMillan, which you can buy frozen. This diet is a lot simpler than other lizards who need to be fed more regularly.

You don't have to keep them under a UVB light, but Dr. MacMillan says it would be beneficial. However, you will need to make a temperature gradient in their tank via a heat source.

Leopard gecko

Not only is the leopard gecko beautiful to look at, but they have a gentle and calm personality that's great for children and beginners. Since they only grow to about eight inches, they're a good choice for handlers with limited space.

If you supplement their diet with vitamin D3, you won't need to install a UVB light for them - you'll just need a heating mat. They'll also appreciate the best toys for pet lizards to keep them mentally and physically stimulated. These crepuscular creatures are active at dawn and dusk, making them suitable for owners who are out during the day.

Bearded dragon

Since bearded dragons love spending time with people and don't have an aggressive nature, they make brilliant pets, according to Dr. MacMillan. They can grow up to two feet in length, so you'll want to ensure their new home is big enough.

Giving the correct bearded dragon care is super important - they need a large enclosure, a UVB light, a heat lamp and a varied diet of insects and vegetables. You'll be pleased to hear that they're not picky eaters, so you shouldn't have too much trouble with feeding them.

Before you bring one home, it's worth learning how long bearded dragons can go without heat.

Russian tortoise

Russian tortoises are friendly and curious, making them an excellent choice for families and children. They can grow up to 10 inches long and will need a large enclosure with plenty of space to explore. It's worth keeping in mind that they can live up to 50 years, so ensure you're ready for the long-term commitment before you adopt one.

Tortoises are herbivores and can eat leafy greens, hay, certain vegetables, and the occasional piece of fruit as a treat.

Blue tongue skinks 

There are lots of reasons to love blue tongue skinks — their striking cobalt tongue being one of them! As well as having some pretty cool features, they make wonderful pets and have an intelligent, laid-back personality. Their diet is a mix of animal protein, fruits, and vegetables, plus calcium and vitamin D3 supplements.

This might come as a surprise, but skinks can live for up to 20 years, so make sure you're invested for the long run. Similar to bearded dragons, these reptiles require a temperature gradient, so you'll need to invest in UVA and UVB lighting and use a thermometer to monitor their enclosure.

Do any reptiles bond with humans?

If you're wondering, 'Do any reptiles bond with humans?' the answer is no. Well, not in the same way that cats and dogs do anyway. Dr. MacMillan explains that since they've not been domesticated to the same level as our furry friends, the type of bond is very different and they're "quite basic in how they interact with us".

Their needs are focused on food, water, breeding, and survival, so you might receive some interest and enthusiasm if you're bringing them some food.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Otherwise, they are not very good at showing what they are feeling unless they are fearful or aggressive. That’s not to say a reptile won’t bond with you in their own way, and there are definitely some individuals that show more expression than others, but don’t expect any big displays of affection from them."

Do reptiles like to be touched?

Yes, some reptiles like to be touched and handled.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Pet iguanas seem to enjoy this type of human contact, and many turtles will push into your hand for more if you are petting them. Snakes also seem to appreciate being held and will wrap themselves around your arms or legs. This could also be because they are enjoying your body heat or a change of scenery from their enclosure, however. Bearded dragons are usually quite docile and like nothing better than to sit on your lap or even your shoulder.

"The more gentle handling you do, the more you and your pet will become accustomed to each other. This will all allow you to work out how your reptile likes being touched as well as providing them with some mental and physical stimulation."

Want more reptile advice? Read 32 types of reptiles you can keep as a pet.

Turtles are wonderful pets and can be great fun to observe and interact with, but they have some very specific needs that's why we've rounded these tips for taking care of pet turtles.

One amazing turtle fact is that they do require specialist care, which can mean that they are not suitable pets for everyone, and you should do your research before taking one on. Some types can live for more than half a century, meaning they are a lifetime commitment to take on.

Here are 32 tips for caring for pet turtles that you should consider before you bring one home.

32 tips for taking care of pet turtles

1. Choose the right breed

There are multiple breeds of domesticated turtle that you can buy, but you need to make sure you are choosing the right breed for your particular setup. Consider the size and age your chosen breed might reach.

2. Choose the correct tank size

When taking care of a turtle you need to ensure that their tank is the appropriate size. For every inch of the length of their shell they will need 10 gallons of water. To make sure they have the best fish tank, measure your turtle as they grow to ensure their tank remains a good size for them.

3. Maintain tank temperature

Turtles tend to need a dry area, with space and warmth for basking, as well as an aquatic area of their tank. You should have two themometers, one in the water and one in the dry area to ensure that their tank stays the correct temperature.

4. Bear in mind lifespan

Another tip for pet turtle care is to consider how long reptiles live. A turtle in captivity is likely to live 20-30 years, depending on their breed. While none of us can see the future, ensure that you have a plan in case you find yourself unable to care for your turtle in future.

5. Turtles hibernate

Many turtles hibernate from March to November, entering a period of dormancy called brumation. Less daylight hours and colder nighttime temperatures trigger this cycle, but it is a little more complex in captivity. Brumation is often important for health and reproduction but should be managed by an experienced reptile keeper or veterinarian.

6. Provide an amphibious environment

Turtles, unlike tortoises, require an amphibious environment with access to water and a dry, warm place to bask. People often mistake tortoises for turtles, but they have very different requirements so make sure you know what you're doing.

7. Buy a heating lamp for basking

Turtles need a lamp to provide them warmth and all important UVA/UVB rays. They need the UV rays for their bodies to be able to make vitamin D and utilize calcium from their diets. Ensure the heat lamp you buy is also a UV lamp so your turtle remains healthy.

8. Choose the right food

What do pet turtles eat anyway? Turtles require the correct diet, which is usually a mixture of live prey (insects, fish, bloodworms) protein-rich pet food like trout chow and vegetables. The specific diet will depend on the type of turtle you have, so make sure you do your reasearch beforehand.

9. Do not handle your turtle too often

You should avoid handling your turtle unless absolutely necessary. They sometimes carry salmonella, which is dangerous for humans, and the temperature of your hands can impact their energy levels. It can also be stressful for the turtle.

10. Wash your hands when handling your turtle

If you need to handle your turtle for any reason, make sure that you wash your hands before and afterwards. This will limit your risk of developing salmonella.

11. Avoid obesity

Turtles can develop obesity from overfeeding and a poor environment. If they get too fat, they will not be able to retract their heads into their shells and their legs may not bear their weight, meaning that they will get stuck out of water.

12. Be careful of salmonella

As mentioned above, turtles can carry salmonella. With this in mind, be extra careful with hand hygiene when handling your turtle and cleaning their environment. It is also best to keep children clear of the turtle and its tank.

13. Regularly change water

Turtles need a full water change every four weeks, with a 25% change weekly or 50% change every fortnight.

14. Turtles need Ultraviolet

Rather than simply a heat lamp, ensure you purchase a basking lamp that provides your turtle with UVA/B to ensure that they do not get a vitamin D deficiency.

15. Consider your water filters

Your water filter will need to be the right size for the tank you have chosen. Turtles poop a lot, so the filter needs to be able to manage 2-3x more than the capacity of the tank.

16. Add plants to their enclosure

Plants, fake or real, provide enrichment and interest to your turtle's enclosure. Their enclosure should be as close to the turtle's natural environment as possible. If you choose fake plants, ensure that you clean them regularly.

17. Be aware that some turtles climb

It may seem odd for an aquatic animal to be able to climb, but some species of turtle can and do. Be aware of this when setting up their enclosure.

18. Turtles and tortoises are different animals

While this may seem obvious, people often confuse turtles and tortoises are different animals with different needs.

19. Consider the depth of the water

Turtles need the water in their tank to be of an appropriate depth for the turtle to fully submerge and swim without getting stuck. This is generally two times the length of their shell.

20. You can encourage wild turtle habitat in suitable areas

If you live in an area where turtles are native, you can build a suitable habitat and encourage wild turtles to live in it. Many people will build ponds to attract turtles, which can help with insect control and provide valuable habitat for wild animals.

21. Male turtles fight

If you have multiple male turtles in a single tank they will likely fight when they reach sexual maturity. They compete for females and territory, making them unsuitable tank mates.

22. Females may or may not fight

Female turtles are less likely than males to fight when sharing a tank, but sometimes will if they feel their resources are threatened.

23. Check the temperature of the tank regularly

We mentioned before that you will need two thermometers: one for the dry area, and one for the water. Monitor these thermometers at the same time every day to make sure you spot any changes in temperature that might harm your turtle.

24. Condition water before adding it to the tank

Turtles will not do well living in water straight from a tap: you need to condition it beforehand to remove chlorine and chloramine. You will also need to ensure the water you are adding to the tank is the same temperature as the water already in there.

25. Cuttlebones provide calcium

Turtles need a suitable amount of calcium in their diet to maintain their shells and skeletons. Cuttlebones offer a great way to supplement your turtle's diet with extra calcium, but you should also feed them vertebrate insects and fish to meet this need.

26. Test the water quality regularly

For the health of your turtle, you will need to test the water quality regularly. Testing kits can be purchased that check pH and levels of ammonia and nitrites. You will also want to monitor water hardness.

27. Rocks should be larger than your turtles head

Turtles aren't always the smartest, so ensure any rocks in their enclosure are larger than the size of their head so they are not mistaken for food.

28. Choose appropriate water plants

Ensure that the plants you put in your turtle's enclosure are suitable: that they don't poison the water and are suitable for the turtle to eat. They can improve water quality and provide forage for your turtle to graze on. They can also be fun places for your shell-ed friend to hide.

29. Clean the tank at least monthly

While water changes are important, they don't clean the physical structures in the tank. You should go in and clean everything, including filters, at least monthly to prevent sickness in your turtles.

30. Some turtles enjoy a scrub

Some turtles may get algae build-up on their shell and require cleaning or scrubbing with a toothbrush or similar. They don't strictly need this level of maintenance, as their shells dry out and the algae will shed when they bask, but many enjoy the sensation.

31. Young turtles have different dietary requirements to mature turtles

Growing turtles need a lot more protein than adults and often also require more vitamins and minerals. Bear in mind the age of your turtle when feeding.

32. Be aware of the possibility of an overgrown beak

Turtle beaks should be checked by a vet periodically to ensure they are the right length to allow the turtle to eat and move normally. They should wear down naturally but sometimes need manual trimming.

These quick tips for taking care of bearded dragons will help you keep your loveable reptile happy and healthy.

And better yet, they can be actioned in minutes. From providing the best toys for lizards, like a lounger or step ledge, to filling their diet with top-quality food.

That said, it’s worth noting that bearded dragon care can be quite specific, so you'll need to get the basics right. For example, they will need a varied diet and enough vitamins to help them thrive. Being cold-blooded and native to Australia, their environment needs to be kept at the right temperature. Care for your beautiful scale-skinned friend will also vary depending on the type of bearded dragon you have and their age.

To help you take even better care of your beardie, we’ve compiled a list of quick tips for taking care of bearded dragons.

32 quick tips for taking care of a bearded dragon

1. Invest in a decent vivarium

Simple, yet oh-so effective, investing in a decent, hardwearing, and made-to-last vivarium is a quickfire way to keep your beardie happy. In today’s market, you can choose between a plastic one or a wooden option.

2. Give them enough darkness

One interesting fact about bearded dragons is that they are diurnal, which means they are most active during the day and they sleep at night. To make sure they get a good night's kip, they will need to be in complete darkness for at least 8-12 hours.

3. A varied diet

It makes sense: humans need a varied diet to thrive — and so does your lizard. For the most part, brown crickets are a favorite for beardies as they are easy to catch and digest. For a treat, they’re also partial to mealworms or cockroaches. Serve these up alongside lots of leafy greens, like kale and watercress, and colorful veg, like peppers, and your bearded dragon’s stomach (and heart) will be full!

4. Vitamins

Wondering how long bearded dragons live? If carefully looked after, they can live life by your side anywhere between eight to 12 years. And ensuring they have a well-balanced diet full of nutrients is key to helping them thrive.

In an ideal world, your bearded dragon would get most of its vitamins and minerals from the food they eat. However, to ensure they are getting all the nutrients they need, you can add some vitamin powders to their meals to help supplement their diet.

5. Enough space

According to the RSPCA, the minimum size vivarium for one adult dragon is 120cm long by 60cm high and 60 cm wide. But if space allows, you may wish to invest in a bigger one. That’s because bearded dragons might start small, but they grow quickly.

6. Give them their own space

Talking of space — bearded dragons are solitary creatures and they like to have a lot of space to move around. It is therefore not generally recommended to keep more than one bearded dragon in a vivarium.

7. A clean cage

We all love a clean space to eat, sleep and repeat. And beardies are no different. Therefore, you should be removing uneaten food, refreshing drinking water, and scooping up any droppings from their vivarium daily.

8. Heat

If you're wondering, 'How long can bearded dragons go without heat?' allow us to enlighten you. Bearded dragons can only go 24 hours without heat. But this is only possible if the temperature stays at around 65F.

9. Let them lick you

Has your bearded dragon ever licked you? Well, firstly don’t panic! And secondly, know this: it’s your pet pal’s own way of getting to know you, by collecting information about your scent, taste, and temperature. Essentially, it can help them recognize you.

10. Bathe them

Have you noticed your bearded dragon is looking a bit scruffy? Then it might be time to give them a soak. While beardies won’t need bathing every day, depending on your pet pal, you may need to bathe them once or twice a week. Not only will this help them stay clean, but it can help with hydration too.

11. Don’t overstimulate them

While beardies need a bit of upkeep to keep their environment stable, they won’t need lots (and lots) of handling. Instead, create a calm and quiet environment and try to avoid getting them out of their safe space too often.

12. Provide them with UVB light

This point is essential. To ensure your bearded dragon remains healthy, you should provide a UVB tube light at 10-12% on the hotter side of the vivarium. Failure to do so, your much-loved reptile could develop metabolic bone disease which could significantly shorten their lifespan.

13. Humidity levels

As you might have been able to tell by now, beardies need quite specific conditions to thrive in. According to the RSPCA, bearded dragons need low humidity levels to prevent breathing problems or skin troubles. To help stay on top of this, you should use a hygrometer which will help measure the humidity at the cool end. Therefore, humidity levels should be around 30 to 40%.

14. Substrate

A substrate is what you choose to put on the floor of your vivarium. In the wild, bearded lizards can be found basking in deserts and subtropical woodlands. Therefore, in captivity, you’ll need to replicate their natural environment to help encourage natural behaviors, like digging. A reptile-safe sand substrate or sand/soil mix is your best bet.

15. Treat them (very rarely) with fruit

So we know bearded dragons are omnivorous, but did you know these reptiles will devour fruit? Certain fruits, for bearded dragons, can be safe to eat but moderation is key. Naturally high in sugar, fruit should only be given as a real treat sparingly.

16. Good ventilation

If you do find that the humidity in your beardies’ vivarium is too high, their home will need more ventilation. To do this, you could add additional vents. Or use fans to reduce high humidity levels. You could also place the water bowl at the cool end of the tank.

17. Enrichment

Enrichment for bearded dragons is a must when it comes to keeping these scaly friends happy and healthy. Whether it’s investing in some crinkle balls, branches for climbing, or a tunnel. But just remember — don’t go overboard. Bearded dragons like to have space. And if you fill their vivarium with too much enrichment, it may have the opposite effect.

18. Time with you

As we touched on, these pet pals are quite solitary creatures. However, that’s not to say they don’t enjoy spending time in your company. Around 10 to 15 minutes is enough time for your beardie to spend outside its vivarium. Too much longer and your reptile could see its core temperature drop.

19. Handle with care

All pets should be handled with the utmost care — and your bearded dragon is no different. To do so, gently scoop your pet pal up with two hands, making sure their body and all four legs are supported. If your lizard starts to back away, take this as a sign that they don’t wish to be touched right now.

20. Make sure they are shedding

Shedding is a completely normal part of a reptile’s life, as it’s part of their growth. More formally known as ecdysis, an adult bearded dragon might typically shed every few months. If you’re the proud owner of a baby beardie, you can expect them to shed every 20 to 30 days. Once you spot them shedding, misting them can help. So can giving them a warm bath. Just never pull the dead skin off yourself!

21. Keep an eye on them

After getting to know your beardie, you’ll be more aware of what’s ‘normal’ for them and what’s not. So do keep an eye on them. For example, you might notice abnormal droppings. Or perhaps you’ve noticed their eyes are sunken. Or that there is rapid weight loss. If you have any concerns, contact your vet straight away.

22. Let brumation take place

According to the RSPCA, during the cooler seasons, bearded dragons have a tendency to sleep more, eat less, and generally slow down. Some people like to think of this like a type of hibernation, which you might expect from the likes of butterflies and bats. But for lizards, this behavior is called brumation.

23. Book them in with the vets annually

Ideally, your beardie should be taking trips to the vet a minimum of once a year and this should take place before brumation occurs. This way, your vet can check up on your scaly friend’s weight, feces, eyes, and overall well-being.

24. Transport them safely

Along with picking your bearded dragon up with two hands, while giving all four of their feet enough support, when taking your beardie to the vets you’ll need to ensure they’re kept warm and protected.

25. Hiding area

All types of reptiles you can keep as pets will need some sort of hiding area. Providing them with a sense of protection and safety, a hiding spot can also help bearded dragons cool down if they get too hot.

26. Places to climb

Another way to help your bearded dragon feel right at home? By adding some sturdy branches to their space so they can climb to their heart’s content. Another type of enrichment idea for bearded dragons, beardies are natural climbers so they will want to mimic the mannerisms they’d do in the wild.

27. Moss

Another form of enrichment, adding moss to your pet pal’s vivarium can help to maintain the right levels of humidity and replicate their natural climate.

28. Add plants

We bring you another source of enrichment for your beloved beardie — live plants. Not only will this help add some greenery to their space but bearded dragons are partial to snacking on them too. They love the popular indoor succulent echeveria, Haworthia, and even Jade plant.

29. Nail care

Bearded dragons like to have their nails looked after as much as the next person. In some cases, your bearded dragon might have enough abrasive materials in its vivarium, like climbing branches, rocks, and natural sand substrate, to keep their nails at a manageable length. But if that’s not the case, you should trim the tips of their nails very carefully.

30. Provide a hot and cool spaces

Bearded dragons are cold-blooded. This means they’re unable to control their own body temperature. To help them do so, they’ll require external heat sources. Therefore, a UV tube light will be required at 10-12% on the hotter side of the vivarium. While the cooler part of their enclosure is 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit.

31. Provide enough fresh water

You’ll know if your bearded dragon is suffering from dehydration. Along with having loose, saggy, and wrinkly skin, they may lose their appetite, feel weak, and have sunken eyes. To avoid this from happening, the general consensus is that bearded dragons should drink roughly 10mL/pound of body weight.

32. Choose a good location where to put them

While most beardies won’t mind spending time on your lap or being petted, they will spend the majority of their time in their vivarium. Which is why it’s important to get the location of their home right. Your best bet is somewhere safe and quiet like a corner.

For more advice on looking after your reptile read a guide on bearded dragon care.

How long can bearded dragons go without heat? Since reptiles are cold-blooded animals, they rely on external sources to regulate their body temperature, like the sun or a heat lamp.

If you live with one of these beautiful creatures, you'll need to provide them with the correct bearded dragon care to ensure they live a happy and healthy life. Keeping their vivarium at the correct temperature is one of the most important things you can do — and there can be fatal consequences if you don't.

However, if you find yourself in the middle of a power cut, you might not have access to their lamps and be wondering what to do. Below, expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan has answered all of your questions, like how long bearded dragons can survive without heat and how to keep them warm without a lamp. She's also revealed the best temperature to keep them at and why they need heat.

How long can a bearded dragon live without heat?

Bearded dragons can live up to 24 hours without heat, explains Dr. MacMillan. However, this is only possible if the temperature stays at around 65F.

She says: "If your bearded dragon becomes too cold, they will become inactive. Their digestion will slow down leading to dangerous bacterial overgrowth and they may become unresponsive."

How can I keep my bearded dragon warm without a heat lamp?

If you find yourself in a power cut and your bearded dragon's enclosure drops below 75F, you need to find other ways to keep them warm. Dr. MacMillan recommends the following ideas:

• Using heat packs
• Using hand warmers
• Putting hot water bottles near your lizard (cover the bottles and don't let them have direct contact)
• Wrapping them in a blanket and holding them close to you
• Putting them in the car with the heat turned on

To avoid problems with your heat lamp, make sure you always have a spare bulb on hand. However, if you do find yourself in trouble, Dr. MacMillan says: "Heat pads, radiant heat panels, and heat cables are all alternatives to heat lamps and it may be worth using one of these as a supplemental heat source in your enclosure, or as a backup if an issue with your heat lamp occurs."

Why do bearded dragons need heat?

Cold-blooded animals require external heat sources to warm up their bodies, explains Dr. MacMillan. Bearded dragons need to be basked (A.K.A exposed to heat and light) to help with digestion, metabolism, and blood circulation.

She says: "Blood delivers oxygen and nutrients to cells and takes away waste products. Heat and light are also needed to simulate a bearded dragon's natural environment. In the wild, they spend significant amounts of time basking in the sun, and they must be able to replicate this in captivity."

What temperature is best for bearded dragons?

If you've got an adult bearded dragon (18 months+), their basking area should be 90-93F, and the cooler area should be 80-90F. Younger dragons (3-17 months) burn more energy as they're still growing, so they'll need a slightly warmer climate of 95-105F for the basking area and 80-90F for the cooler area.

Dr. MacMillan warns that if the temperature gets too high or low, this can be fatal for your pet, so you should continuously monitor it with a thermostat.

She says: "In addition to this, a thermometer in the basking area and another in the cooler part of the enclosure is recommended to ensure the temperature gradient is correct. Check these regularly.

"You should factor in a heat drop overnight, to replicate what would happen in the bearded dragons' natural environment. As long as the temperature does not go below 59F, your lizard will be fine, as long as they can heat up again in the morning. If the temperature in your home is likely to drop below this then you will need to provide supplemental heating overnight, as long as it doesn’t emit any light."

For more bearded dragon advice, read: Enrichment for bearded dragons and best pet reptiles.

How long do bearded dragons live is something, we must admit we didn't know the answer to. So we spoke to vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out!

If you are an experienced dragon owner then you probably already know that larger dragons tend to have a longer lifespan than smaller ones. If you have a smaller dragon or are considering welcoming one into your home, then don't worry. There are plenty of things you can do to help your bearded dragon live a long and happy life.

Things like creating a consistent routine, feeding a varied diet, and providing lots of love and attention are some of the most important things you can do when it comes to bearded dragon care. But how long do they actually live? Let's find out.

How long do bearded dragons live?

So how long do bearded dragons live? Dr. Rebecca MacMillan weighs in, "The average lifespan of bearded dragons is eight to 12 years, though some may live less than this and others may live a bit longer!"

So if you're looking for a companion that will be around for a while, bearded dragons are a good choice. Regular vet visits, dietary supplements, and purchasing your pet from a reputable reptile breeder in the first place will all help your pet to stay as healthy as possible, which will enhance their overall quality of life.

Are bearded dragons easy to keep alive?

Bearded dragons originate from Australia, so it's important to try and replicate these living conditions as best as possible in terms of lighting, temperature, and even humidity settings.

Dr. MacMillan says, "Using the correct substrate in their enclosure is also crucial in keeping your bearded dragon healthy. Reptile carpets, astroturf, ceramic tiles, rubber shelf liners, and alfalfa pellets are all safe options. I never recommend using sand as it could cause intestinal blockages if ingested.."

What are the easiest types of bearded dragons to care for?

"The Central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps), Western bearded dragon (Pogona minor), and Eastern bearded dragon (Pogona barbata) can all make good pets with the right care. Other types of bearded dragons tend to be rarer and can have more demanding needs. They may not be suitable unless you are an experienced reptile keeper," says MacMillan.

Top tips for caring for your bearded dragon

When it comes to enrichment for bearded dragons, there are a few things you can do to help your reptile friend thrive. Consider their living environment and make it equipped with things to help support their development.

Dr. MacMillan says, "Hides, platforms, rocks, and branches in your pet’s enclosure will help your lizard to replicate natural behaviors which are good for their health and mental wellbeing. You could also consider a hammock for them and some safe plants, to add interest to their home."

Dr. MacMillan also offered some advice is you have a female bearded dragon and that was if you'd like her to live longer than not to breed her. "Breeding can negatively impact her lifespan," she says.

If you liked this feature, check out 32 best exotic pets anyone can own.

If you’re thinking about welcoming a new scaly-skinned addition to your home, allow us to introduce you to the best types of reptiles you can keep as a pet.

These air-breathing vertebrates include a wide range of species. From the much-loved lizards and snakes to the hard-shelled turtles and tortoises who can live for decades (and some, centuries).

Unlike cats or dogs, reptiles don’t carry dander. This means they’re typically hypoallergenic, making them ideal for allergy sufferers. Most reptiles are also cold-blooded, so they’re unable to regulate their own body temperature. Instead, they rely on external heat sources like the sun or the best reptile heating pads to do so. So when you’re introducing a new scaly member into your family, artificial heat sources will be absolutely crucial to the health, and well-being of your reptile.

Reptiles will also need the perfect-sized terrarium and toys for enrichment, along with the right handling and the correct substrate.

To find out the options for different reptiles as pets, stick right here. We’ve compiled a list of different reptiles you’ll want to welcome into your four walls.

32 options for different reptiles as pets

1. Leopard gecko

Not many reptiles can break off their tail if a predator grabs them. But the adaptable Leopard Gecko is one of them.

These clever leopard-printed lizards are nocturnal and can further evade capture by shedding their skin to remove markers predators can use to track them. Generally considered easy to care for, leopard geckos are recommended as a good pet for beginners.

2. Red-footed tortoise

Tortoise facts aren’t hard to come by. These slow-moving reptiles can’t swim (you’re probably thinking of turtles or terrapins who are water dwellers), but they can dig burrows and holes in the earth to help regulate their body temperature.

Plus, these gracious characters are one of the oldest reptiles in the world, having been around for more than 230 million years.

3. Blue-tongued skinks

Generally considered as easy to care for, feed Blue-tongued Skinks a diet high in protein, vegetables and fruit and make sure they’ve got a large enough habitat so they can thrive, and these reptiles will feel right at home.

This type of lizard loves to spend its days foraging for insects, plants and small animals. With a lifespan of 20 years or more, you’ll have a friend for decades.

4. Bearded Dragons

When provided with the right Bearded Dragon care, these reptiles can live a long and happy life, right by your side.

But just like any pet, beardies can get bored. So it’s a good idea to provide them with a range of enrichment ideas for Bearded Dragons to help keep their mind (and body) busy.

5. Corn snakes

Known for being one of the best exotic pets anyone can own and the preferred species of snake when it comes to the best first pets for children — the non-venomous Corn Snake is small, lightweight, and presents minimal risk to humans.

They’re also relatively low maintenance, needing feeding just once or twice a week depending on age.

6. Ball Python

No matter whether you’re an experienced reptile owner or just getting started, Ball Pythons (which get their name because they curl themselves into a ball when they feel threatened) are low maintenance, small in size, and easy to handle. Growing anywhere between 3-5 feet long, these slithering beauties can live for up to 40 years.

7. Crested Gecko

If you’re a novice lizard owner or are tight on space, Crested Geckos are well worth a look.

They’re a good choice for beginners thanks to their small size, docile and friendly nature, and laid-back diet of crickets, worms, and fruit. Introduce your gecko to a selection of the best toys for pet lizards and they’ll be happy.

8. Chinese Water Dragon

Gorgeously green, Chinese Water Dragons can make for a beautiful reptile pet. These happy-go-lucky four-legged friends are up there with being one of the friendliest lizards out there.

They enjoy being handled and handling them daily helps to keep them socialized. Living for anywhere between 15 to 20 years, these loveable lizards can be housed in pairs.

9. Chameleon 

Known and loved for their ability to change color, which helps them communicate with other Chameleons and regulate their own body temperature, these technicolored lizards have been around for more than 65 million years.

Chameleons will spend their days basking, exploring their enclosure, or looking for food, using their tongues and sticky saliva to catch prey.

10. Turtles

With some species living for up to 200 years, the best turtle tanks can help you create the perfect conditions for your loveable reptile – and for decades to come!

When it comes to pet turtle care, these cold-blooded swimmers need sufficient room and an environment set for their needs. From enough light and warmth to clean water and enrichment, all this should help to keep these hard-shelled creatures happy and healthy.

11. Iguanas

It’s worth noting: Iguanas can be expensive. But that’s not to say that they aren’t worth it! These reptile pals are known as the world’s fastest lizards so they need a big enough terrarium to live, eat and sleep in.

They’ll also need the right humidity levels and temperature to thrive and just know, they can take years to train. But that said, once you’ve taken care of the basics, Iguanas can bond with their pet parents for life, living for more than 20 years when properly cared for.

12. Kingsnakes

Coming in a variety of colors, Kingsnakes are bound to help brighten up your reptile collection.

Originating from Northern America and parts of Central America, they are given their name due to their habit of feeding upon other snakes. Therefore, you should only keep one Kingsnake in each enclosure.

13. African Fat-tailed Gecko

The African Fat-tailed Gecko is completely carnivorous. Whether it’s wax worms, mealworms or crickets, in the wild they’ll seek out beetles and roaches.

These geckos are known for being docile and easy to care for. Thriving in a low-humidity environment, they’ll need around 10-12 hours of light per day.

14. Argentine Black and White Tegu

Having a lifespan of between 15 to 20 years, an Argentine Black and White Tegu differs from most other reptiles on this list because it’s one of the first known warm-blooded lizards. This comes after a 2016 study by Science found that it can raise its body temperature by 10 degrees. Pretty cool, huh?

15. Tokay Gecko

One of the largest living gecko species, these bright and beautiful reptiles are known for their vibrant grey coloring with orange and blue spots.

However, they do have a reputation for having some aggression and being territorial. So they aren’t recommended for beginners. That said, once you’ve nailed their environment and gained their trust, Tokay Geckos are relatively straightforward to care for.

16. Royal Python

Known as one of the best exotic pets anyone can own, Royal Pythons live for anywhere between 20-30 years.

They aren’t the most active of snakes, but they are around 3-6 ft in length, so will need an enclosure big enough for them to slither. Being a naturally solitary species, Royal Pythons can be great starter snakes due to their mild temperament.

17. Spiny-tailed Lizard 

These lizards like it hot, thriving in temperatures over 115 degrees Fahrenheit. Highly active, as their nickname suggests, this type of Uromastyx, comes with spiny tails. Lovers of burrowing, in the wild can live in tunnels of up to 10 feet long.

Therefore, in captivity, they’ll need at least 4 to 5” of soft, sandy substrate to burrow to their heart’s content.

18. Anoles

If you’re after a small pet for compact homes, look no further than an Anoles. Pronounced ‘ah-no-lees’, these brightly colored lizards have large throat fans, or a dewlap, which allow them to communicate.

Like their fellow Chameleon counterparts, they can change hues from their naturally bright green coloring to green, brown, tan, or gray.

19. Savannah Monitor

These intelligent reptiles are considered to be medium-sized monitors, native to rocky deserts and open woodlands in west and central Africa.

Despite being legal to keep as a pet, a Savannah Monitor might not be the best option for every scaly-friend lover. We say this because they need large space requirements so they can do all the things they adore, like basking, burrowing, and climbing.

20. Frilled Dragon

Calm, docile, and unique to look at, there’s a lot to love about a Frilled Dragon. These medium-to-large reptiles come with a frill around their neck that they can puff up to scare predators away. It’s why they’re nicknamed ‘frillnecks’.

Another fun fact? These captivating exotic creatures can also run up to 30 miles per hour! So if you intend on inviting one into your home, make sure you’ve got a big enough enclosure to keep them happy and healthy.

21. Russian Tortoises

Fancy a Russian Tortoise as a pet? These highly inactive reptiles prefer to spend their days not doing very much. In fact, they have a short activity period, sometimes just three months per year.

Russian Tortoises need daily exposure to UVB lighting, a substrate that allows for digging, and a good quality diet, with fibrous vegetables, dark leafy greens, and grasses in abundance.

22. Panther Chameleons

Just look at this rainbow-colored creature! One of the most recognizable reptiles, a Panther Chameleon is a beautiful and fascinating scaly pal to keep.

These reptiles require a clean environment and specialized equipment to flourish — this includes the right lighting and temperature. Solitary and very territorial, these diurnal reptiles spend most of their time in isolation.

23. Ornate Uromastyx 

It’s official: the Ornate Uromastyx is one of the most common Uromastyx species kept as a pet in the US.

Differing from spiny-tailed lizards in a few different ways, a Male Ornate Uromastyx is usually bright green, blue or red, while females are more muted in their coloring with a lighter shade of dark brown, yellow or red spots.

24. Brazilian Rainbow Boa

Living for up to 30 years with the proper care, these intricately patterned snakes have an iridescent sheen to them, which means their skins have a rainbow-like effect in the sun.

Non-venomous, these reptiles can grow up to 6 feet in length, so an appropriately sized habitat is essential.

25. Hermann’s Tortoise

Like most other cold-blooded reptiles, Hermann’s Tortoises rely on heat from their surroundings to regulate their body temperature.

Another thing to note? These tortoises prefer to keep their four feet safely on the ground. How else would they sunbathe, forage, or spend a small portion of their days digging?

26. Red-eared slider

In the wild, you’ll often spot Red-eared Sliders basking in the sun in groups. These semi-aquatic turtles start as carnivores and become omnivorous, as they age.

So an adult reptile will eat a range of foods, from aquatic plants and insects to fish and snails.

27. Phelsuma grandis

Another green sensation, the Phelsuma grandis, otherwise known as the Giant Day Gecko, is an active and colorful species hailing from the tropical regions of Madagascar.

Often kept as pets in the US, they prosper in environments that have plenty of vertical space and they need UVB lighting along with misting to keep their home a humid one.

28. Veiled Chameleon

Whether you refer to these as cone-headed chameleons or as their more formal scientific name of Chamaeleo calyptratus, these solitary tree dwellers can change color within seconds to help communicate with other peers.

What really makes them stand out though, aside from their intricate coloring, is the casque on the top of their head. In dry habitats, this helps them channel water to their mouths.

29. Rosy Boa

One of the smallest members of the boa family, this snake can make for a great reptile pet to add to your collection.

Generally tolerating handling well and low maintenance, these cold-blooded animals won’t be able to regulate their own body temperature so will need their enclosure to do so for them.

30. Red-eyed crocodile skink 

If you’re after a one-of-a-kind pet who scores top marks for elusiveness, look no further than a Crocodile Skink. These fast runners like to hide, burrow, and be left to their own devices and they will freeze or ‘play dead’ if they’re startled.

31. Greek Tortoise

So we’ve heard about a Hermann’s Tortoise and a Russian Tortoise. But a Greek Tortoise now joins our list of the types of reptiles you can keep as a pet.

These outgoing, active, and friendly sun-loving pets measure around 5-8 inches in size, but some can reach up to 12 inches. If properly cared for, Greek Tortoises can celebrate 50 birthdays or more.

32. Gargoyle gecko

These loveable reptiles get their name because of the bumps on their head that look like horns. But despite their rather fearsome title, they are very docile pets.

Gargoyle Geckos love to climb. In fact, they’ll spend most of their nights doing just that. Along with being active during night times, they’re also pretty vocal — especially if there are other gargs around.

Interested in reading or hearing some more information about reptiles? Check out the best pet reptiles or a vet's guide to pet turtle care.

There are several different types of bearded dragons that come in a variety of shapes and colors. The different patterns, colors, and even spikes or scales are often referred to as morphs.

When it comes to bearded dragon care, you'll want to be sure that you know everything there is to know about the type of bearded dragon you are bringing home. Depending on the type of bearded dragon you have you will need to consider things like the size of its tank or the amount of exercise they need.

So what are the types of bearded dragons? We asked vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out.

What types of bearded dragons are there?

All species hail from Australia so if you are thinking of getting a bearded dragon as a pet it is super important to make their new home as close to their natural living conditions as possible. Things like lighting, temperature, and humidity are all super important to help your bearded dragon thrive.

There are eight types of bearded dragons and the morphs of domesticated dragons have been bred from these eight types. They are...

• Central Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)
• Eastern Bearded Dragon (Pogona barbata)
• Western Bearded Dragon (Pogona minor minor)
• Nullarbor Bearded Dragon (Pogona nullarbor)
• Rankin’s Dragon or Lawson’s Dragon (Pogona henrylawsoni)
• Small-scaled Bearded Dragon (Pogona microlepidota)
• Abrolhos Dwarf Bearded Dragon (Pogona minor minima)
• Mitchell’s Bearded Dragon (Pogona minor mitchelli)

Dr. MacMillan says, "Morphs are bearded dragons bred for a desirable appearance, color, or pattern. Classic morphs resemble their ‘wild-type’ counterparts, but many other variations exist... There are thought to be over 20 bearded dragon morphs with different colors and patterns. "

What types of bearded dragons are the best pets?

Most commonly, domesticated bearded dragons are bred from the Central bearded dragon and the inland bearded dragon. "The Central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps), Western bearded dragon (Pogona minor), and Eastern bearded dragon (Pogona barbata) can all make good pets with the right care," says Dr. MacMillan. These types of dragons will have similar needs, and personality traits and will all appreciate having fun climbing and lounging equipment in their tanks.

She also notes that while other breeds of bearded dragons can be kept as pets, they have more advanced needs and are better suited to more experienced reptile owners.

When it comes to purchasing a bearded dragon we want to stress the importance of working with a reputable breeder. Dr. MacMillan adds, "Irresponsible ones (breeders) may make false claims about the lizard's breeding or morph type. Where possible try and see the parents, especially if you are hoping to purchase a Giant German morph. Avoid purchasing any bearded dragons that are advertised as ‘pygmy’. Pygmies are not a recognized morph type and a small bearded dragon could have underlying health issues that are stunting its growth. "

If you found this feature helpful, check out How long do bearded dragons live and 32 fun, interesting and bizarre facts about bearded dragons.

The best reptile heating pads are the ideal way to ensure your scaly pal has a natural environment where they can stay toasty all year round. Reptiles are cold-blooded animals, which means they don't make their own internal heat. Instead, they are entirely reliant on their environment to main the proper body temperature.

Along with a properly sized terrarium, and toys for enrichment, you'll need to invest in proper heating to keep your pet happy and healthy. Different reptiles like Bearded Lizards have different requirements to keep them in ideal health. However, some things are true for all reptiles, like keeping them nice and toasty.

In the wild, many reptiles like to bask on sunny branches or flat rocks, but when you've got a pet reptile, some additional equipment is required to ensure they stay comfy and cozy. Artificial heat sources are absolutely crucial to the health, and well being of your pet. 

Heating pads offer an excellent way to add additional heat options to your terrarium, on top of heating lamps. However, you'll want to consider both the size of your tank, and the size of your reptile to ensure its a good fit. If you're just getting started, you'll want to ensure you've chosen the right items for your new reptile friend like tanks, toys, and enrichment ideas, but if you're already set up, then choosing a heating pad can raise their quality of life. 

To help you find the right pad for your pal, we've rounded up a selection of our favorite reptile heating pads, as well as speaking to Dr. Lily Richards for tips on selecting the right heat mat for your scaly pal. 

Dr. Richards has some tips when looking for the right heating pad for your reptiles.

"Heat mats are a good option for many smaller snakes and nocturnal
lizards who like underbelly heat. Heat pads are designed to be used
primarily to create a hot spot or basking area within a vivarium, as part of
the temperature control equipment required for cold-blooded animals to
maintain an optimal body temperature for good health. Heat pads are
used alongside ambient temperature heating solutions (halogen lamps /
ceramic heaters). When choosing an appropriate heat pad, consider the
appropriate size heat pad, vivarium size and layout, and other heat
sources required to maintain the ambient temperature of the terrarium,
alongside the heat pad itself."

PetsRadar's pick of the best reptile heating pads

Want an all-round reptile heat pad that gives you plenty of choices and options? That’s exactly what you get with this under tank heater from iPower. You have the choice of buying just the heat pad, or if you want more control over tank temperature you can add a thermostat. 

Available in four different sizes - each with a different wattage - there is something for every type of terrarium and budget. To save yourself a few dollars you could start off with the heat pad and see how that works for you. But be warned you can’t buy the thermostat separately, so it might be a good choice to go all out from the start. 

The 4 x 7 inch 4W pad is a good choice for 1-5 gallons tanks, while the 6 x 8 inch is good for 10-20 gallon tanks. The 8 x 12 inch pad has an output of 16W and is the ideal companion for a 30-40 gallon tank. The largest in the range - 8 x18 inch - pumps out 24W and is a great hat source for large 50 gallon plus tanks.

Whatever heat pad you choose it will stay safe and secure thanks to its super strong 3M glue panel. However, the pad is going to be stuck wherever you place it because of that glue, so be sure its precisely where you intend before setting it in place. Covered with thick insulation, it delivers a quick heat transfer, and can reach up to 108 degrees Farenheit in an hour. However, it can be prone to overheating and doesn't have an automatic cut-off if you don't have a thermostat attached. 

If you want a simple, no-nonsense heating pad that is built to last at a budget-friendly price then this reptile heating pad from BN-LINK is a great choice for your terrarium. Made from a strong and durable PVC material its five layer design means that it is impervious to water when cleaning, but is not 100% waterproof. However, its construction does mean that it heats up in less than an hour and offers uniform heat distribution. 

This heating pad is available in six different sizes, but only two of them include thermostats for adjusting the temperature. The 6 x 8 inch model pumps out 8W and is perfect for a 10 -20 gallon terrarium. The 8" x 12" model is bumped up to 16W and gives a steady heat flow to help keep your 20-30 gallon tank at the temperature you want. 

It also features an energy efficient design, so it shouldn't make a large impact on your electricity bill.

Like most reptile heat pads it is only suitable for a glass terrarium and to make sure that it stays in place it has a super strong 3M glue based panel. All you need to do is peel off the sticker and place it on clean dry glass. You won’t be able to reposition once it's in place so make sure you choose the right spot and you are within six feet of a power outlet. Otherwise you’ll need to move your terrarium to power the heat pad. 

Want a reptile heat pad, that can be adjusted? This heat pad from Tikaton comes in three sizes and is available with either an adjustment knob, or a thermostat. The adjustment knob or thermostat control are integrated into the 1.8m power cord which thankfully has a reinforced connector to help prolong the life of the heat pad and the temperature control at the same time. 

Depending on the model you choose, you have access to different options. The adjustment knob delivers three options: low, medium, and high heat settings. Meanwhile, the thermostat allows you to finetune the temperature of the heating pad by degree, and includes options for Fahrenheit or Celsius readouts. 

Made from a durable water resistant  PVC material - ideal when it needs cleaning - there is a choice of three sizes. The smallest of the range is the 6 x 8 inch pad which has a relatively low output of 8W and is an ideal choice for 10-20 gallon tanks. The larger 12 x 8 and 18.5 x 8.5 inch pads both have an output of 16W and are fully usable with tanks up to 40 gallons. 

Combined with the solid state nichrome heating element you're getting an energy efficient mat that will help keep costs down. But the installation of the pad is not quite as simple as some. There is no full glue pad, but you do get double sided tape included. You will need to heat the pad before you apply the tape. If you don’t follow the instructions you won’t get a really good fix on your glass terrarium. 

Don’t be put off by the fact that this heat pad calls itself an under tank heater. It is just as capable of being placed on the side of a tank thanks to its large adhesive base, which means once this pad is stuck in position it is going nowhere. Another plus is that its strong bond to your tank means that you get maximum heat exchange giving lower running costs and higher efficiency. 

But it is worth noting that it is for glass terrariums only and has to be stuck on the outside of the tank. But this isn’t a criteria that is exclusive to the Zoo Med, a lot of similar reptile heat pads operate in exactly the same way.

If you do want to use the heat pad on the bottom of your tank you will need to lift the tank up a few centimetres to allow for air circulation and stop overheating. But, don’t worry, a set of four perfectly-sized, easy to fit rubber feet are included with the pad to make sure all works well. 

The 8 x 12 inch model featured here is the perfect choice as a primary or secondary heat source - depending on your reptile - for a 30-40 gallon tank, But if you have a smaller - or larger - tank, other models from the same range are available to suit your needs.

Unfortunately, there is no thermostat included, but the purpose of the pad is that it has a set temperature that brings the ambient temperature in the cage 2-8 degrees higher than outside the cage. If you need to really pump up the heat and need basking temperatures above 90 degrees in your terrarium you might need to look at a different option. 

If you want complete control over the temperature range of your terrarium you will be hard pushed to find a better reptile heat pad and thermostat combo than this. The VIVOSUN comes with a sturdy heat mat, an easy to control thermostat and a temperature probe to get a wide range of output options. 

The reptile mat comes in three sizes - 6 x 8, 8x12 and 8 x 18 inches - which makes them ideal for 20-40 gallon tanks. The smaller of the range boasts an 8W output and is the better choice for a 20 gallon tank while the larger pad measures 8 x 12 inches and has an 16W output making it ideal for 30 gallon tanks, the 8 x 18 rocks a 24W output perfect for 40 gallon terrariums.

Where the VIVOSUN reptile heat pad really stands out is the control that the thermostat gives you over the heat output. You can go as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit and as high as 108, or switch to Celsius if that is your preferred measurement. But to get up to maximum temperature you are going to have to wait a good few hours or longer. 

The thermostat itself is an easy-to-grip hexagon design made from strong and sturdy plastic, so it will last. It has a simple LED display and a trio of tactile easy to use buttons that allow you to choose the temperature and set. A couple of small red indicator lights let you know the thermostat is working and the pad is heating up. 

Only suitable for glass terrariums the heat pad is easy to fit thanks to its adhesive backing, but choose wisely where you position it as you won’t be able to preposition with any great ease. And note that it claims to be waterproof, which it is but only for cleaning purposes, it cannot be fully submerged. 

From turtles and lizards to frogs and snakes, this super affordable twin pack of reptile heating pads will ensure your little friend stays cozy and warm. Made with high quality heating wire material, these durable pads are easy to clean and convenient to use.

Waterproof and damp-proof, they can be used under a tank or vivarium and the temperature control switch will let you head the pads to a balmy maximum of 95 Fahrenheit. The pads are also low-energy, so you won't need to worry about 24-hour use of these beauties hiking up your electricity bill too much. 

Measuring 16.5 x11, they're ideal for a range of reptiles and work beautifully with a 30-40 gallon tank. The only issue is the thermostat, which can be tricky to set to a precise temperature at times, but, other than that, customers seem pleased with the value that these heating pads offer.

How to choose the best reptile heating pad 

How to choose the right heating pad

Choosing a heating pad for your reptile can be overwhelming, especially if you're on a budget, or trying to find one with specific features. The most important aspect is finding an option that works for you, and your scaly pal.

That's why we've got a few more tips on choosing the heating pad that will deliver hours of basking for your reptile, no matter the species. 

WallyGator, an alligator from Pennsylvania, is currently in the lead to win a new competition, America’s Favorite Pet Animal Kingdom.

Would hugging an alligator help you feel less stressed? A hug from WallyGator might – the seven-year-old alligator is a federally licensed emotional support animal, and he’s up for public vote in the new contest. 

Developed from the world’s biggest online pet competition, America’s Favorite Pet, which began in 2020, the new Animal Kingdom contest will see contestants of all shapes, species and sizes battle it out. 

The winner will receive $10,000 and a write up in celebrity gossip magazine In Touch. The contest benefits the Progressive Animal Welfare Society (PAWS.org), a nonprofit shelter and rehabilitation organization.

While WallyGator is certainly one of the more unusual contestants, he isn’t the only reptile. Other competitors include bearded dragons, a spider python and even a tarantula (OK, not a reptile!)

Joie Henney, Wally’s owner, runs Wally and Friends Reptile Rescue and posts Wally’s exploits on his TikTok account, @WallyTheAlligator. 

• Serval cats: Can you keep as a pet? History, care and breed information

The rakish reptile has over 68,000 followers and videos show him walking on a leash, lying with his owner on a couch for chin rubs and swimming. Wally was originally a rescue, and Joie got him after suffering a bout of depression.

He said, “He puts so much joy in my life, he just makes everything his friend. I take him everywhere, he’s my best buddy.” Joie and Wally attend events together and Joie says his unusual pet has helped thousands of people.

“Wally has never showed any aggression or tried to bite anyone,” says Joie. “He’s the only one in the world for me.”

You can vote daily for free on Wally’s competition page and you can also pay to cast additional votes, which will benefit PAWS.org. Voting is open now and will close on September 1 at 7pm PDT, according to the live countdown on the America’s Favorite Pet website.

On the official competition page, which shows a photo of Wally in sunglasses, Joie says that his pet’s favorite treats are Cheese Puff Corn and raw chicken. 

“He’s an amazing creature who senses people’s emotions and gives hugs to try to cheer people up. He has been a huge support for me during my battle with cancer and has brought cheer to other patients and the doctors and nurses.”

Good luck, Wally – we hope it will be a case of ‘see you later, alligator!’

The best toys for pet lizards can make all the difference when it comes to the health of your reptile. While you may not think of lizards as being super playful, having toys in their home that support their natural instincts is very important.

You’ll want to include toys that mirror what they would come across in everyday life. Vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan says, “The best toys for lizards tend to replicate what they would come across in the wild. This can provide them with mental stimulation and help to mimic their natural environment.”

When you add the right equipment to their tank, you’ll see that lizards are anything but boring. Some lizards can figure out puzzles, and some love climbing while others enjoy hiding and burrowing. By adding these elements to their home you’re taking the right steps to make sure your lizard thrives.

Now let’s check out which toys made the cut for the best toys for pet lizards.

The best toys for pet lizards 2026

How to choose the best lizard toy

Choosing toys for pet lizards is not an easy task, not least because most of them have quite an impressive poker face. Your ultimate goal is to get something that enriches your animal’s life.

"For example, items that they can hide under will help them to display natural behaviors and may make them feel more secure. Extra climbing materials such as artificial vines, hammocks, or platforms can help them to exercise and work different muscles, as well as give them somewhere new to perch," says Dr. MacMillan.

Many lizards prefer to chill out and hide away, and that’s fine, but you can get them some great toys that provide the best environment for that. Hides and hammocks, branches, and vines provide the perfect environment for keeping a healthy lizard while giving them enough space to climb and move around.

More social lizards, like the bearded dragon, might like to be led on a leash or bat a ball around with you (we’ve even seen some riding skateboards!), but it’s all about your animal’s personality, if they’re happy and seem normal they’re probably getting what they need. If they’re overly lethargic then you need to think about introducing some new stimulus.

The best advice we think we can give though, is to use the internet’s community of lizard lovers to find what’s recommended, check the reviews, and make sure the products are safe, or how to safely use them.

What to avoid in lizard toys

Dr. MacMillan to avoid toys that contain feathers or loose pieces as these can get stuck in your lizards mouth. You'll also want to be sure that any climbing pieces you place in the tank are free of sharp edges and corners.

If you found this helpful check out our roundup of the best reptile heating pads.

Enrichment for bearded dragons is an absolute must when it comes to ensuring that these highly social and curious reptiles stay healthy. Thankfully beardies are super easy to please, so providing them with simple enrichment accessories will be enough to keep them happy.

When it comes to bearded dragon care, a lot of us go straight to thinking about a proper habitat and diet, but just like cats, dogs and other creatures, having stimulating objects to engage with on a daily basis is vital for making sure your bearded dragon stays mentally and physically well.

Thankfully, you don’t have to spend a fortune when it comes to playthings for your beardie. They’re usually incredibly content with budget-friendly options such as crinkle balls and wands, and because they tend to form strong bonds with their owners, they’ll also love being popped in a harness and taken on a little walk.

To help you find the perfect enrichment options for your bearded dragon, we’ve rounded up our favorite picks below, including toys, activities and other accessories that you can pop in their habitat to help keep them healthy. Let’s take a look…

Do bearded dragons need entertainment and what are the signs of stress?

Like any pet, bearded dragons can get bored and need to live a full and enriching life. Spending time with your bearded dragon is a great way to bond with your lizard, however they can be quite territorial and it can take them a while to settle down and get to know you.

Allow your pet plenty of time and space to get used to new playthings and don’t continue with activities if you feel they’re becoming stressed. Signs of stress include lethargy, loss of appetite, frantic clawing at the sides of the enclosure or even ‘stress marks’, temporary dark discoloration on your pet’s underbelly.

Enrichment activities for bearded dragons

Enjoy a view Like most pets, bearded dragons will appreciate a little variety in their environment. You can try moving the tank next to the window for 20 minutes daily so they can see the view.

Take your beardie for a walk Use a harness that’s been specially made for the purpose so that it fits snugly and don’t let your pet walk on any grass that’s been treated with fertilizer or pesticide. It’s also not a good idea to let him eat wild insects as these can carry parasites.

Go for a swim For animals indigenous to deserts, beardies are surprisingly good swimmers! If you’d like to give it a try, put a few inches of warm water in a bathtub or kids’ paddling pool. Most bearded dragons like to swim in short bursts so you’ll also need to add a couple of large stones so they can get out for a rest. The first time you try, just use an inch of water for your pet to paddle in until they get confident enough to swim.

Watch TV Finally, here’s an easy one – let your bearded dragon watch TV with you! Most find the brightly colored pictures and variable sound of TV stimulating. Your pet may even like to get out of his tank for a while and onto the sofa with you. You might like to set some rules around who gets charge of the TV remote though!

Best toys for bearded dragons

Most of the best toys for bearded dragons tap into their need to hunt and climb. Here are a few ideas:

Bearded dragon balls Some bearded dragons love to play with a ball, and it can be a great way to both provide a spot of both exercise and mental stimulation. You can buy specifically designed balls for bearded dragons that you can fill with their favorite food or opt for a bright color to keep them interested.

Crinkle balls Opting for a bright color is not your only option when it comes to choosing ball toys for your lizard: sound can also provide stimulation for your bearded dragon. Crinkly balls that are often designed for cats can actually tap into your beardie’s hunting instinct by making a crackly sound when touched.

Wands Believe it or not, but cat wands are a great way of interacting with your beardie. Much like our feline friends, bearded dragons can also become easily attracted to dangling objects. Just be sure to avoid the kind with feathers which can be harmful if ingested.

Floaties Not every bearded dragon enjoys water, but for those that do, you could consider using floatie toys they can swim or climb on for a little extra assurance. You could even consider a traditional rubber duck, as some beardies like to push or nudge it.

For more ideas, head over to our guide on the best toys for pet lizards.

Environmental enrichment ideas for bearded dragons

Your beardie will probably be spending the majority of his time in his tank, so it’s well worth making sure he has plenty of stimulation in there with him. You can keep a few old favorites in there all the time and swap the others around so there’s always something new to discover. Here are a few suggestions for pimping that tank:

Hammock Like most other lizards, bearded dragons love to bask and lounge (is this where the expression ‘lounge lizard’ comes from?!) A hammock is a safe and comfortable place for them to relax. Choose one that’s specifically designed for the job and has a close-knit mesh so that claws and legs don’t go through.

Tunnel In the wild, beardies spend a lot of time hiding in rocky crevices. Make yours his own tunnel by piling rocks up or install a purpose-made option. If your pet is shy, he’ll be glad to have a safe place to retreat to while he gains his confidence.

Bridge Create a climbing frame by installing a bridge. Your pet can climb over it to help increase exercise or hide under it for a little privacy. You can use anything from a custom-made item to a plank of wood as long as it’s secure and stable.

Stuffed animal Believe it or not, some bearded dragons like their own teddy bears! Stuffed animals can help provide additional warmth and comfort. Not all beardies will appreciate them though so introduce them on a trial basis.

Logs and branches Your pet should have a choice of sizes of rocks, logs and branches to climb and bask on. You can change some of these round regularly to introduce a more stimulating environment.

Keeping your bearded dragon stimulated with a rich, interesting environment and a variety of toys and activities will help keep him mentally and physically healthy. Always introduce new toys for short periods of time and never leave them unattended until you’re sure how your pet will react. Every bearded dragon is an individual and will soon tell you whether his new activities are a hit or not!

If you liked this feature, check out: Types of bearded dragons that you need to know about and best pet reptiles.

We’ve come out of our shell to help you find the best turtle tanks. And by tanks, we mean aquarium tanks, not armored war machines… your turtle does not need a battle tank, they already have their own armor.

Despite being quite exotic, turtles are like any other pet. They need sufficient space to live in and explore, suitable environmental conditions within that space, and that space to be kept clean and hygienic. That means providing them with a large enough tank relative to their size.

They also need sufficient light, warmth, and clean water. The first two will be provided by a UV lamp that acts as a substitute for the sun, while the latter is achieved using an aquarium filter.

Beyond that, you’ll also want to decorate your turtle's tank to help them feel at home. The ideal environment within a tank will depend on whether you have an aquatic, semi-aquatic, or land-based turtle, but all of them need a mixture of land and water so they have areas to swim, along with exposed land where they can bask. They also like hidey holes – both above and below the waterline – where they can conceal themselves. Check out our guide to pet turtle care for more info.

Some of the best turtle tanks that we’ve looked at below are complete starter sets that come with the lamp, filter, and even some decorations included. Others are just tanks, so you’ll need to account for the cost of the other necessities when purchasing one of them.

The Quick List

PetsRadar's pick of the best turtle tanks 2026

Best turtle tank overall

Turtle aquariums are not simple. To make sure they are kept healthy and happy, you need all the right components. Rather than spend time trawling the web or stores looking for all the parts, it is well worth considering a starter kit, especially if this is your first time with a turtle.

The Tetra Aquatic Turtle Deluxe Kit provides everything you need to give your turtle a happy home. The kit includes a 20-gallon tank, which is ideal for small aquatic turtles. If you have a larger turtle or more than one, you should think about getting a bigger tank. A decorative filter (with three cartridges) is included to make sure that the water is kept clean via its three-stage filtration process. The beauty of the filter is that it blends in with the habitat. It is hidden inside the basking platform, and creates a beautiful waterfall.

Keeping the water and environment at a constant temperature is crucial for a cold-blooded reptile. To ensure that your shelled buddy is a happy one, the starter kit includes a couple of dome lamps. These are incorporated into the screen top to help maintain a constant temperature. Make sure you place the basking platform under the UV light to create a prime spot for your turtle. The kit also includes a boxwood plant mat. This is ideal when starting out, but you may want to consider more decorations once your turtle has settled in.

All living creatures need food, and the kit includes the essentials, so you don't need to worry what to feed your turtle. Finally, your aquarium will need a place to call its own. This should be away from a source of heat or direct sunlight, and will need to measure at least 30in wide x 12in deep x 12in tall to accommodate the Tetra tank.

Best baby turtle tank

If you're looking for a temporary home that won't be too intimidating for a baby turtle, this Hamiledyi Small Turtle Tank is an ideal nursery tank.

It doesn’t come with any filters, heat lamps, or food – It is just a tank, but it's a great budget option. You don't want to spend a fortune on a tank that your baby turtle will quickly outgrow after all. It is ideal for those who have a small baby turtle – ideally up to 2.5in in length – and already own a heat lamp and water filter. Just make sure that your lamp and filter are compatible with the tank.

The tank is lightweight, weighing in at just 1.7 pounds, and made from strong, durable plastic. The bottom of the tank provides a small swimming area and a non-slip ramp that leads to the other areas. This helps ensure that your buddy doesn’t keep slipping back into the swimming area.

At the top of the ramp, there is a small feeding area and a basking platform. There is also a "planting area" which comes supplied with a few small plastic plant decorations, but you can also use that area to put some real greenery into their enclosure. Just make sure you prepare to move your turtle into a bigger and more bodacious pad when they hit those teenage years.

Best large turtle tank

The larger an aquarium, the more space your pet turtle will have, and the happier they will be. Plus, a large aquarium allows for growing room, and even the addition of more turtles in the future.

This kit has a large-capacity tank that can hold up to 55 gallons of water. As you might expect, a bigger aquarium takes up more space than a smaller aquarium. So you will need to make sure you have enough space for the tank. It measures 4ft3in in length, and is 2ft wide and 1ft5in in height. It weighs in at a heavy 521 pounds when filled with water, and that’s without any additional gravel or decor. So you will need a sturdy platform to hold the tank.

So what else is included in the kit? There is a powerful 200W heater that will heat up the water and keep it at a steady temperature. To ensure that the water temperature is at the right level, there is a stick-on digital thermometer. Another addition to help keep the temperature constant, and stop anything falling into the aquarium, is a Tetra hinged hood. This comprises two hoods, giving easy access to both ends of the tank. These also help keep the heat in. To keep the water clean – and your turtle healthy – there is the quiet and economical WPF 60 Filter.

The decor is a little sparse, consisting of two plant multipacks and a boxwood plant. Notable by their absences are an environment to occupy your pet turtle, or a platform to warm itself. This is something you will need to purchase to complete the setup. Once you are up and running, the included lighting adds a natural daylight effect. This means you get an illuminated view of the entire aquarium.

Finally, for peace of mind, the aquarium comes with an easy-to-understand set-up guide, which has plenty of tips and pointers on how to get started.

Best LED turtle tank

The GloFish aquarium kit is primarily aimed at those who want to keep tropical fish, but it contains almost everything you need for a turtle.

So what’s in the kit? First, there is a 20-gallon glass aquarium, which is ideal for small turtles; then there is a Tetra mini UL heater to keep the water temperature at the right level, and to ensure that the tank stays clean, there is a Tetra Whisper 20 filter.

In addition to the essentials, the kit comes with a GloFish 13in LED light stick, one GloFish yellow anemone, and two plant multipacks. This gives the tank a little decoration, but it’s not just your standard decor. The fluorescent decor and LED lighting creates a colorful neon display. It's ideal in darker rooms, and if you don’t want the neon display on, you can simply switch it off. There is also fish food included. While you can feed turtles fish food, it doesn’t give them all the nutrition they need. It will need to be supplemented with the right food.

As we mentioned before, the GloFish contains 'almost' everything you need. The kit is missing a UV lamp and a basking platform, which are essential for any turtle aquarium. What this does mean is that you can customize the habitat's decor, and get the exact basking platform that you want for your turtle. One good example is the TetraFauna Viqaquarium all-in-one land and water environment. Want to know more about the Viqaquarium? Read more about it in this buying guide.

There are smaller sizes too, including 10, 5 and 3-gallon options, and an upright portrait option if you have a small turtle. Even so, we recommend the large option if you need growing room.

Best terrestrial turtle tank

If you’ve got a terrestrial (land-based) turtle — such as a box turtle — and you need an indoor housing solution for them then we’d highly recommend the REPTI ZOO Reptile Terrarium.

The tank is built from tempered glass with a metal frame, offering premium build quality at a relatively affordable price. It has both sliding doors and am openable top with an anti-escape design to make it easy for you to get in, while stopping your inquisitive turtle from getting out. There are plenty of cable pass-through slots so you can hook up lamps, misters, and other devices easily. The tank needs to be assembled, but there are simple instructions to follow, and even a tutorial video that you can watch on their website.

It’s not designed to be filled to the brim with water, but there bottom level of the tank is watertight so you can create smaller swimming areas and water features inside, which makes it ideal for primarily terrestrial turtles who still want to swim around every now and then.

Best turtle tank insert

Aquarium kits are great for those who are new to keeping turtles. They contain all the necessary gear that you need to give your buddy a happy home. However, with a ready-made one, you get little choice of the environment or how the turtle's habitat will look and work.

The alternative is to purchase all the gear you need separately to get a more customized aquarium. As we have already mentioned, turtles are cold-blooded and need an environment where they can come out of the water, breathe, and bask in the warmth of a heat lamp.

The TetraFauna Viquarium is an all-in-one land and water environment that is ideal for aquatic turtles. It converts an ordinary aquarium into an aqua-terrarium. This is a combination of an aquarium and terrarium, which effectively means that it has a dry land part and a water section for swimming, making it perfect for transforming any aquarium into a habitat that is perfect for turtles.

The Viquarium boasts three realistic land areas that will allow your turtle to warm up. There is one high area and two lower areas allowing your hard-shelled buddy to choose where they want to hang out. The high area has a cascading waterfall feature hidden inside. This is powered by the Tetra Whisper filtration system, which ensures that the water is kept clean. The waterfall flows into a riverbed that links to the other basking areas to create a more natural environment.

The Viquarium will fit into most 20-55 gallon tanks, and can be placed to the left or right. This brings a bit of flexibility to a turtles habitat, which will help keep them happy and, of course, healthy.

How to choose the best turtle aquarium

When choosing an aquarium for your pet turtle, there are a number factors to consider, but perhaps the most important is the tank size. Turtles come in many different sizes, so here’s a quick guide to help you choose the right size tank. Multiply the length of your turtle by ten, and this equals the capacity you need. For example, if your turtle is two inches long, multiply that by 10, and you get 20. So a 20-gallon tank is your ideal choice. If you are thinking of having multiple turtles in a tank, you will want to go larger. Alternatively, get more than one aquarium.

When a tank size has been decided, you need to think of all the necessary equipment to go with it. You will need water heaters, heat lamps, water filters, thermometers, lighting, and tank decoration. If you are a beginner at keeping turtles then a starter kit such as the Tetra Aquatic Turtle Deluxe Kit is a no-nonsense option. It has a decent size tank and all the extras you need to get started straight away.

If you want a bigger aquarium then the Tetra 55 Gallon Aquarium Kit is a great choice. But be aware that this is not a small tank – it’s over four feet in length, so you will need plenty of space for it. It doesn’t come with much in the way of a basking platform or decor, so you might want to add the TetraFauna Viquarium. This offers a realistic land and water environment, comes with a water filter, and fits most 20-55 gallon tanks.

If you want something a little more fancy then try the GloFish Aquarium Kit Fish Tank, which has a fluorescent decor.

Whatever you choose, make sure that your turtle has enough room, an area to bask in, a constant water temperature, and a water filter to keep the aquarium clean, and your turtle happy.

How big should a tank be for a turtle?

It's important to make sure that any pet has a big enough enclosure, as small homes can stifle their natural behaviors, leading to stress, unhappiness, and even health issues. We spoke to one of our expert vets, Dr Lisa Coder, to get the lowdown on all things turtle tank.

"The size enclosure you choose for your turtle greatly depends on the size of your pet. As a general minimum, 10 gallons per inch of turtle is appropriate, although I usually recommend a 40-50 gallon horizontal tank to start, regardless of turtle size." explains Dr Coder. "You can get a small tank for a small turtle, but as they grow you will have to purchase a larger tank."

Dr Coder also made it clear that while you don't want to overface a baby turtle with a huge tank at first, there are ways around that if you want to avoid buying twice. "If you have a juvenile turtle, you can provide a tank large enough for the anticipated adult size and add additional decorations, hides, a pond, or other enrichment to use the extra space. Otherwise, you can get tank dividers and keep your turtle in a smaller section and enlarge it as she grows."

With good pet turtle care, some can live for up to 80 years! Obviously, these pets require quite a high level of commitment. However, in addition to their longevity, turtles also require a considerable commitment in terms of daily care. There is more involved in optimal turtle care than you might think at first glance. Providing this level of care, including the best turtle tanks and ideal nutrition, are essential if you want your turtle to have a long and healthy life.

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What type of turtle do you have?

In order to determine the best way to care for your turtle, you first need to understand what type of  you have. There are over 300 different species of turtles and tortoises, but only a few turtle species are commonly kept as pets. Pet species include both land-based (or semi-aquatic) and aquatic turtles. 

Common aquatic pet turtles include: 

• Red-eared Slider 
• African Sideneck Turtle
• Western Painted Turtle
• Common Musk Turtle
• Spotted Turtle
• Yellow-Bellied Slider

Common land-based pet turtles include:

• Eastern Box Turtle
• Painted Wood Turtle

Knowing whether your pet turtle is an aquatic turtle or a land turtle is essential in order to determine the best housing and diet for your turtle. As you might expect, an aquatic turtle has very different needs to a land-based turtle.

Never underestimate the importance of good husbandry

When it comes to turtles and other pet reptiles, husbandry is everything. Animal husbandry refers to the basic fundamentals of animal care, including the food and shelter that you provide for your pet turtle. A large percentage of the diseases seen in turtles and other reptiles are caused by poor husbandry. Caring for your turtle properly is not only the ethical thing to do, increasing your turtle’s quality of life; it will also maximize the likelihood of your turtle living a long and healthy life. 

Housing your pet turtle

Aquatic turtles live, as their name implies, almost entirely in water. Depending on where you live, you may choose to house your aquatic turtle in a large indoor aquarium or an outdoor pond. An aquatic turtle enclosure needs areas for swimming and diving, as well as a dry area for basking (sitting out of the water). The water should be maintained at a temperature of 75-82°F (24-28°C), although a heat lamp should be used over the basking area to provide a temperature of 90-95°F (32-35°C). Aquatic turtles also require good water filtration, as well as a UV light (if housed indoors). 

Land-base or semi-aquatic turtles also require water, but they spend much of their time on land. The ideal enclosure for a land-based turtle is a large outdoor enclosure, although some people create an indoor enclosure (such as a large plastic kiddie pool) for their pet turtle. The ideal temperature for turtles is 70-90°F (21-32°C) with a basking area heated to 85-90°F (29-32°C). Like aquatic turtles, indoor land-based turtles also require UV light. 

Feeding your pet turtle 

Different turtle species have different nutritional requirements. Some species are herbivores. These  turtles require a diet consisting solely of plants and vegetables. However, this vegetable-based diet can make it challenging to meet the vitamin and mineral requirements of these herbivorous turtles. While the specific plants and vegetables a herbivorous turtle eats depends on its species, it’s best to feed a variety of plants or vegetables. Even with this, variety in food, vitamin, and mineral supplementation is almost always required.

Other turtle species are carnivores, including many aquatic turtles. These carnivorous turtles can be fed small fresh or frozen fish. Many turtle owners feed them goldfish, because they are easily available. However, it’s important to note that goldfish are relatively high in fat, and can cause obesity and fatty liver disease in turtles. Frozen fish are a good alternative, but carnivorous turtles eating frozen fish will require Vitamin B supplementation.

Finally, some turtle species are omnivorous, eating a combination of plants and animals. Many omnivorous turtles tend to eat mostly plants and vegetables when they are young, then shift to eating more insects and animals with age. It can be challenging to achieve the correct calcium/phosphorus balance in omnivorous turtles. Therefore, a commercial diet is often recommended for omnivorous semi-aquatic turtles.

Common infectious diseases in turtles 

Turtles are susceptible to a number of infections, including bacterial infections, fungal infections, protozoal infections, and intestinal worms. There are a number of steps you can take to reduce the likelihood of infections on your turtles: 

Common non-infectious diseases in turtles

Many common non-infectious diseases in turtles are nutritional in nature. Hypovitaminosis A (vitamin A deficiency) causes swelling of the eyes, nasal discharge, and abscesses within the ears. Hypervitaminosis A (vitamin A excess) causes sloughing of the skin and secondary skin infections. Metabolic bone disease (caused by calcium deficiency) can lead to unexplained fractures and other bony abnormalities. Feeding a diet that is well-balanced for your specific turtle species is essential to preventing metabolic disease. 

Your turtle’s housing can also play a role in disease prevention. Poor water quality and/or a lack of basking areas on which to 'dry out' can both contribute to the development of a condition known as shell rot. Additionally, a dirty environment can increase the risk of other infectious illnesses. 

It’s important to educate yourself  

While a turtle may seem like a simple and straightforward pet, pet turtle care requires educating yourself on the requirements and preferences of your particular turtle species. This article is designed to act as a helpful overview, but it’s also important to work with your veterinarian to learn the specific requirements of your pet turtle species in order to ensure that you are meeting your turtle’s requirements as effectively as possible. 

“What do pet turtles eat, anyway?" If you’re considering the purchase of a pet turtle, you may have already found yourself asking this question. While that’s one important thing to learn before bringing home a new pet turtle, there are many other aspects of turtle care that also need to be taken into consideration. There’s far more to turtle care than simply buying one of the best turtle tanks and some turtle food! Here are five turtle questions that you should ask yourself, and answer, before you consider bringing home a pet turtle. 

1. What do pet turtles eat?

While the majority of turtles are omnivores, eating both plants and animals, some turtle species are fully herbivores (plant-eaters) or fully carnivores (meat-eaters). Box turtles are omnivores, but tend to be more carnivorous than many pet owners expect. In the wild, they typically eat beetles, insect larvae, cockroaches, flies, grasshoppers, fish, frogs, and other animals, in addition to mushrooms, berries, flowers, and grasses. Aquatic turtles, such as red-eared sliders, are also typically omnivorous, with a diet consisting of fish, frogs, and aquatic plants. 

A commercial turtle diet can be a good starting point for meeting your turtle’s nutritional requirements. When you purchase turtle food, be sure to purchase a food that is intended for your specific turtle. Different turtle species have different nutritional requirements, so it’s important to feed aquatic turtles an aquatic turtle diet and to feed box turtles a box turtle diet. 

In addition to a commercial diet, your turtle should also eat fresh food. Box turtles should be fed fresh vegetables, such as carrots, bell peppers, kale, and broccoli. Box turtles also benefit from animal proteins, such as mealworms, crickets, and earthworms. Aquatic turtles should also be fed fresh foods, such as leafy green vegetables, insects, krill, and minnows. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided in both box turtles and aquatic turtles, because it lacks many of the nutrients that can be found in other vegetables. 

2. Where should my pet turtle live?

Just like food, a turtle’s optimal living arrangements depend upon the type of turtle.  

The ideal housing for a box turtle is a large, outdoor enclosure, which mimics your turtle’s natural environment. The walls of this enclosure should be at least 18 inches high, in order to keep your turtle from climbing out. This enclosure should include both sunny and shaded areas, so that your turtle can regulate its body temperature by seeking sun or shade. If an outdoor enclosure isn’t an option, an indoor enclosure can be used. An aquarium isn’t large enough for a box turtle; instead, you should use a kids’ swimming pool or other large, open tank. The bottom of indoor enclosures should be filled with soil or mulch, which must be cleaned regularly. 

Aquatic turtles can be housed in an outdoor pond or a large indoor aquarium. Regardless of whether they are housed indoors or outdoors, aquatic turtles need an enclosure that is large enough to allow room for both swimming and diving. They need a dry area within their enclosure, so that they can climb out of the water when desired. When aquatic turtles are housed in an outdoor pond, it’s important to ensure that there are both shaded and sunny areas available. 

3. What are the lighting and temperature requirements for indoor pet turtles?

If your box turtle is housed indoors, you need to maintain the temperature of its enclosure at 70-90°F (21-32°C). Additionally, your turtle needs access to a warm basking area, that is heated by a heat lamp to a temperature of 85-90°F (29-32°C). In addition to a heat lamp, your turtle needs a UV lamp that provides at least 5% UVA/UVB lighting. These UV bulbs must be changed every six months; they will stop emitting UV light long before the light bulb visibly “burns out.”

The water temperature for aquatic turtles should be maintained at 75-82°F (24-28°C). Like box turtles, aquatic turtles also require a warm basking area. However, the temperature requirement for an aquatic turtle basking environment is even higher than that for a box turtle; an aquatic turtle basking area should be maintained at a temperature of 90-95°F (32-35°C). In addition to a heat lamp, aquatic turtles also must have a UV light located over their basking area.

4. How long will my pet turtle live?

While aquatic turtles typically live 20-30 years, it’s not uncommon for box turtles to live 30-60 years! A pet turtle represents a life-long commitment. Many people purchase turtles as gifts for children, thinking they will be an easy and low-maintenance pet for their kids to gain a sense of responsibility and learn about pet care. Unfortunately, this couldn’t be further from the truth! When cared for correctly, turtles require work, effort, and a significant long-term commitment. 

5. Does my pet turtle need veterinary care?

Absolutely! Like any other pet, turtles require regular veterinary care. You will need to find a veterinarian that is comfortable with turtles and other exotic pets, in order to provide high-quality preventative care for your turtle. This preventative care should include a physical exam every 6-12 months, fecal parasite testing at least once yearly, and additional lab tests (such as bloodwork) if your turtle is ill. 

Common medical conditions in pet turtles include pneumonia, ear abscesses, parasites, skin infections, Vitamin A deficiency, and metabolic bone disease. Your veterinarian can help you prevent these conditions, in addition to helping you treat any medical issues that may arise. 

Turtles are not as low-maintenance as they appear!

While caring for a turtle certainly isn’t impossible, caring for these pets can be more complex than you might think at first glance. Turtles were once viewed as an easy and appropriate pet for young kids, but we are increasingly beginning to realize that is not always the case. In addition to the Salmonella risks that small turtles can pose for young children, the proper care of a pet turtle requires far more than a tiny little countertop turtle pond. In order to provide the best possible care for turtles, it’s best to look beyond the obvious questions, going from “what do pet turtles eat?” to “how can I create the optimal environment to support my pet turtle’s health?”  

For your consideration, we've provided a bunch of tortoise, terrapin and turtle facts, in case you're considering getting a pet that isn't furry. If you're more interested in a shell-clad sensation, you should probably know more about the incredible creatures that can live for decades before you get one for your home!

You may think you know turtles, but there's no way you know these amazing turtle facts.

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1. They are one big family of Chelonians

Turtles, tortoises, and terrapins all belong to the group of reptiles known as Chelonians (also known as Testudines). That means they’re technically all ‘turtles’, but we have different names for different groups. From the giant Galápagos tortoise to sea turtles like loggerheads and leatherbacks as well as freshwater turtles, there are around 300 species of Chelonians worldwide. A few of these species, with the right dedication and knowledge, make excellent pets (you probably wouldn't want to get a giant turtle, unless you've got a giant tank). 

2. Only certain countries define terrapins and turtles as different creatures

In the UK, we define terrapins as freshwater critters, and turtles as the large, graceful species that live in the oceans - you'd keep a terrapin as a pet, but not a turtle. But in the US, the words 'terrapin' and 'turtle' are used interchangeably when referring to the species.

3. Turtle shells are complicated

The shells of tortoises, terrapins, and turtles are fused to their spines and supported by their ribs - isn't that wild? The upper, domed part is called the ‘carapace’ and beneath that is the ‘plastron’. The outer layer is covered in ‘scutes’ – strong, bony tiles that fit together and display the species markings of the tortoise. Very old tortoises will have extremely worn scutes, which give their shells the appearance of being almost completely smooth.

4. Tortoises are land lubbers

The tortoise group of Chelonians are land-based, which is why they've adapted with strong, short legs equipped with claws and higher, more domed shells. These slow-moving critters actually can't swim, so many species of tortoise will dig burrows and holes in the earth in order to cool down. 

5 . Turtles and terrapins are water dwellers 

Water dwellers Turtles and terrapins are aquatic. They live in a variety of habitats throughout the world in both freshwater and saltwater. But despite needing water, most species can also live on land too (although they’re not amphibians). They’re adapted with flatter shells and webbed feet (or, in some cases, flippers) to aid swimming.

6. They all lay eggs

All tortoises, terrapins and turtles lay eggs. They dig, nest and lay on land, and don’t spend time nurturing their young, who are left to fend for themselves after they've hatched.

7. Turtles and tortoises are cold-blooded

Like all reptiles, tortoises, turtles and terrapins are ectotherms, which means that they rely on external heat to keep warm. Depending on the species and the habitat they’re used to, it may be necessary to bring your pet tortoise indoors at night, and it may also be necessary to invest in a vivarium with a lamp. Terrapins will almost always need a heat lamp to bask under, and heated water to swim in.

8. They don't have teeth

All Chelonians have a beak – a bit like bird’s – made of keratin, the same stuff that makes our fingernails. Some species have an exposed beak, and in others it’s covered with skin.

9. You can tell a tortoise's gender by its tail

Tortoises don’t show any sexual dimorphism, but one way to tell if your tortoise is a girl or a boy is to look at the tail. Males generally have a longer tail than females.

10. Tortoises can be kept indoors or outdoors

With so many varying species, tortoises can be kept indoors or outdoors depending on their needs. While it’s amazing to have a free-range tortoise in the garden during summer, they will also need a secure pen. Some tortoises burrow, so fences need to be dug down, and some are surprisingly good climbers so it’s recommended to have a secure roof too. A vivarium for indoor tortoises is a good idea, as it helps to regulate temperature easily.

11. Terrapins/turtles need specialised habitats

Terrapins need specialised habitats with warm water, a place to bask on land, a heat lamp and a UV lamp to help them synthesise vitamin D3 for healthy bones and shells. They are grubby critters and require a very regular cleaning regime to prevent bacterial growth and disease. Research how large your terrapins will grow in adulthood, and make sure you can accommodate this, and ensure that you know whether your terrapins are social or not before purchasing more than one!

12. Not all species of turtle hibernate

Not all species hibernate (or take 'the big snooze'), but the ones that do need special care. Ensure the tortoise has fasted first to fully empty its stomach, and then put it in a secure, vented box. Line this with dry garden compost or fine soil to prevent dehydration, and store between 3-7°C (37-45°F) over winter

13. Tortoises are pets for life

It’s important to remember that tortoises are exceptionally long-lived, sometimes reaching over 100 years old. Perhaps consider re-homing a tortoise from a shelter that may have outlived its last owner.

14. Don't cuddle your turtle

Tortoises and terrapins are great pets, but they’re not cuddly! Some tortoises may enjoy some owner interaction, especially at feeding time, but terrapins can sometimes be aggressive and should not be handled.

15. There are specific names for groups of turtles

Although they’re not particularly social animals, a group of turtles is known as a ‘bale’, and a group of tortoises is known as a ‘creep’.

16. You'll need different food for different species

Most adult terrapins are omnivorous and enjoy a variety of meat, insects and veggies. Adult tortoises are herbivores and will graze on delicious leafy greens.

17. They aren't entirely quiet pets

Tortoises and terrapins aren’t quiet pets! Some may bark and other species are known to make sounds like growls and hisses. Mating tortoises can be very noisy – amazingly, these sounds were used as the vocalisations of the velociraptors in the original Jurassic Park!

18. Picking the right turtle or tortoise species for you is important

It’s best to get captive-bred species where possible, and consider the size, care and individual needs. Bear in mind that as exotic pets, some species will require a permit to be kept in the UK. 

19. They may outgrow their enclosures

Depending on the species, tortoises and terrapins may out-grow their enclosures. For example, the African spurred tortoise is a popular choice of pet, and can reach a metre (3.3 feet) in length! You're gonna need a bigger tank...

20. They can get really old

The world’s oldest tortoise is Jonathan – a Seychelles giant tortoise who lives on the island of Saint Helena. It’s thought that he hatched in 1832, making him 187 years old! If he were a pet, he'd be passed down generation to generation!

It isn’t usually a five-foot emotional support alligator that springs to mind when you think of supportive animals – but Joie Henney from Pennsylvania would disagree. As Joie explains, "He's far from a typical alligator, he loves cuddling and he loves giving kisses."

That’s not to say Wally doesn’t turn heads when he’s taken for walks by Joie to parks, malls and even restaurants, but 65-year-old Joie can think of no better companion after the 60-pound pet helped him through his dark days of depression. Refusing medication, and with his doctor’s approval, Joie turned to his alligator for comfort, and Wally quickly gained a special place in his owner’s heart through their friendly interactions.

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Joie’s house is a proper reptile zoo, featuring a variety of reptiles, ranging from bearded dragons to ball pythons, but Wally, who shares an indoor plastic pond with a smaller rescue alligator named Scrappy, is Joie's favorite. Describing him as a big teddy bear, he points out that Wally, who is a rescue animal himself, has never tried to bite anyone and is afraid of cats. He even tries to befriend the goldfish and bullfrogs he’s meant to eat!

Wally is now a fully licensed emotional support animal, and his loving ways have earned him many fans. He has a team of volunteers who help out Joie on Wally’s regular visits to schools, birthday parties, minor-league baseball games and other events.

Wally also has his own Instagram page and even his own merchandise, such as mugs and T-shirts, to celebrate the impact he’s had on Joie’s life.

It’s a good job Wally is so placid, as this four-year old alligator is likely to reach 16 feet long when he is fully grown. Still, all the more to love!

Bearded dragon care involves feeding them a varied diet, keeping their vivarium at the right temperature, and giving them enough vitamins to stay healthy. These beautiful creatures have very specific requirements, so if you’re thinking about adopting one, it’s important to know what their needs are.

It’s worth bearing in mind that the amount of exercise and the size of their enclosure is dependent on the type of bearded dragon you have. Younger lizards also need to be kept in warmer temperatures as they’re still growing and therefore, burn more energy.

Below, we’ve shared our top five tips for bearded dragon care and recommended some must-have products to buy:

Tips for bearded dragon care

1. Invest in a decent vivarium for your bearded dragon

Bearded dragons need a highly specific environment to be comfortable, so it’s important you don’t skimp when buying a vivarium. According to the RSPCA, the minimum size for one adult dragon is 120cm long by 60cm high and 60 cm wide.

You can choose either a wooden vivarium or a plastic one. Plastic tends to be easier to clean and it reflects the light well inside the tank. Don’t worry about starting out with a large vivarium if you have a baby dragon, as they grow quickly. Fill it with lots of accessories, such as wood.

When it comes to temperature, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan says: "Adult bearded dragons (18 months upwards) should have a basking area that is 90-93 degrees Fahrenheit (32-33 Celsius) and a cooler part of their enclosure which is 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit (26 – 32 Celsius). They require this temperature gradient so that they can effectively regulate their body temperature."

If you're wondering, 'How long can bearded dragons go without heat?' this feature has the answer.

A UV tube light is also required at 10-12% in the hotter side of the vivarium, this is to ensure your bearded dragon remains healthy. Without it, they could develop metabolic bone disease that could significantly shorten their lifespan.

2. Switch the lights off at night

An important part of bearded dragon care is a clear routine for your reptile. 

Switching off the lamps at night will help your beardie understand the cycle of day and night. However, in their natural habitat, they would normally remain warm at night. 

While it’s not absolutely necessary for your bearded dragon to remain hot at night, if your home gets quite chilly, it’s worth investing in a ceramic heat emitter, which emits only heat and no light. Use a thermometer to measure the temperature in the vivarium and adjust accordingly.

3. Feed your bearded dragon a varied diet

To provide the best bearded dragon care, ensuring they get a varied diet of the right foods and water is imperative to their health and happiness. These reptiles are omnivores, meaning they’re content with a diet of insects and vegetables. Brown crickets are a standard on the menu and dragons find them easy to catch and digest. If you fancy treating your lizard every now and then, then try mealworms, cockroaches or waxworms for something a bit meatier.

Bearded dragons like leafy greens such as kale, and colorful vegetables such as peppers and carrots can make a salad more appealing to your beardie. Grating vegetables can provide different textures for them too. Avoid acidic foods such as onions, as these can cause stomach upset, and always include a big bowl of water in their vivarium. Both food and water should be kept on the cool side of the tank.

4. Make sure your bearded dragon gets enough vitamins

While your bearded dragon should get most of the vitamins and minerals they need from their food, you can also sprinkle vitamin powders on their food to supplement their diet.

Your bearded dragon needs vitamin D3 to use the calcium they receive efficiently. They can get a lot of their Vitamin D through a UVB light, which is a requirement in your bearded dragon’s vivarium.

Your UVB light should be around 10-12%. A T5 Lamp is one of the best options here, as these have a range of 45-63cm and last up to 12 months. Be aware that the UVB rays will decline over time, so be sure to keep a note of when you bought it so you know when it’s time for a replacement.

If you are unsure of the UVB levels in your bearded dragon’s vivarium or you only have a low percentage UVB lamp, then you can always supplement your lizard's diet with some D3 powder and calcium powder.

5. Don’t overcrowd your bearded dragon

Bearded dragons are solitary creatures and they like a lot of space. This is why it’s important to provide them with a large tank from a young age, and be sure to remove accessories as and when they grow so they have enough room to move around. It is not generally recommended to keep more than one bearded dragon in a vivarium.

Always make sure you handle your bearded dragon with care, too. They like some attention, but make sure you hold their weight securely and never pick them up by the tail (that should go without saying). 

When preparing to pick up your reptile, don’t stare them in the eyes or make any sudden movements as this can make them feel threatened. It’s also best to only take them out of the vivarium when it’s quiet and there are no other pets around as this may stress them out.

Final tips for the best bearded dragon care

Bearded dragons are a great pet to have, and while the set-up costs can seem expensive, if given the right care, they are generally low-maintenance pets. 

If you’re thinking of getting a bearded dragon, just remember that they still need love and attention, so you will still need to invest a lot of time in your pet to ensure they get the right amount of engagement and mental stimulation from you. Remember these five tips and your bearded dragon will live a long and happy life!

You might also want to read: How long do bearded dragons live? and 32 types of reptiles you can keep as a pet.