From African dwarf frogs and fire belly toads to tiger salamanders and pacman frogs – contrary to what you might have heard, there are many amphibians that are easy to keep. Due to their need for a carefully controlled environment that mimics their natural habitat, these fascinating animals often get branded as being complicated to look after.

Of course, all pets need lots of TLC and amphibians are no different. But once you know how to get their setup right (and avoid the simple setup mistakes), their care doesn’t have to be convoluted or complex. For starters, amphibians – which are defined as small vertebrates that require a moist environment and/or water to survive – span several different species, including frogs, toads, salamanders, and newts.

To thrive in a domestic setting, these soft-skinned creatures need a vivarium or tank that's safe and sturdy, and able to be kept at the right temperature (most often with a hot side and a cooler side) and the correct humidity levels. Due to all amphibians being ectothermic (so, cold-blooded), they’ll also need an external heat source, like one of the best reptile heating pads, to help regulate their body temperature.

To uncover the amphibians that are easy to keep (making them ideal for busy pet parents), we’ve rounded up a list of our favourite 20.

Easy amphibians for beginners

1. American Green Tree frog

It wouldn’t be a list of the top easy amphibians unless we included the American Green Tree frog. Fascinating to look at, coming in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors, the humble leaper is one of the most beginner-friendly amphibians you can come across.

In the amphibian arena, they have relatively simple needs. So, along with the usual care requirements, as long as you feed them crickets, wax worms and earthworms and they have lots of places to climb to their heart’s content, these nocturnal creatures should be happy.

2. Tiger salamander

Often hailed as one of the most unusual pets, a tiger salamander might be anything but ordinary, but with a little know-how, they are one of the simplest amphibians to look after.

Of course, just like other amphibians, this tiger-printed beauty relies on external heat sources to help regulate its body temperature. And when bred in captivity, they are sociable beings, so if you intend to adopt one, bear in mind that you'll need space for two. But with their protruding eyes and wide-set mouth, which look like they are always smiling, what’s not to love?

3. Xenopus clawed frog

Known (and loved) for their charming toothless and tongueless expression, these long-living amphibians, which have been known to live for up to 25 years, are completely aquatic. This means, if you intend to keep these beauties, you’ll need to have a fully aquatic or submerged habitat for them to roam in.

They’re also one of the most fascinating creatures to look at, with their slits in their webbed feet and hands, which look like giant claws.

4. Pacman Frogs

Considered to be terrestrial amphibians, most often found in Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil, Pacman frogs (also called horned frogs) prefer to spend most of their time underground and in humid environments rather than in the water.

But even though these larger-than-life frogs can grow to up to 6in long, they prefer to live life in the slow lane as they’re not very active at all. Therefore, they won’t need a large enclosure to satisfy their often sedentary needs. Instead, to keep these amphibians happy, your best bet is to keep their bellies fully stocked on crickets and mealworms and ensure they have enough substrate to burrow.

5. African Dwarf frogs

Small, perfectly peaceful and low-maintenance, African Dwarf frogs join this list of amphibians that are easy to keep and for multiple reasons.

Tiny, so not taking up much room at all, living for a moderately long time (around five to seven years on average) and thriving in water, these aqua-loving amphibians are a joy to keep – but that’s if you can find them.

Coming with a brown-green appearance, in the wild, these kind croakers much prefer to blend into their surroundings rather than being the star of the underwater world. But this makes them all the more alluring! So if you’re looking for aquarium pets that aren't fish — consider an African Dwarf frog!

6. Fire-bellied toads

Just look at these multicolored beauties with their bright orange and red undersides and gorgeous green front!

Fire-bellied toads are popular among amphibian hobbyists for several reasons. The first being that they are a joy to look at. The second is that they are relatively easy to look after. And the third is that they are super-small in size (around 2in), so they are one of the best small pets for compact homes.

Plus, these toads require zero handling at all, as these semi-aquatic amphibians excrete toxins to prevent predators from eating them. Pretty, clever right?

7. Poison dart frog

Ticking all the boxes for being one of the most low-maintenance and easy-to-care-for amphibians once their right habitat has been set up, the poison dart frog is a great choice for beginner amphibian lovers and makes for one of the best first pets for children.

But don’t let their name fool you. Domestic poison dart frogs are, in fact, non-poisonous. That’s because their poison comes from their diet (such as insects like ants, mites, and millipedes) they eat when they’re in the wild. Therefore, this striking frog, which comes in a variety of vibrant colors, including red, green, blue, yellow and black, could be the ideal amphibian to share your home with.

8. Amazon Milk frog

Another beauty to add to the list. As their name suggests, the Amazon Milk frog is native to the Amazon Rainforest and they are considered to be a large species, growing anywhere between 2-4in.

Sociable, lovers of warm temperatures and high humidity levels, in the wild, they are classed as arboreal frogs (which means they spend the majority of their life in trees). So if you intend to become the very proud pet parent of an Amazon Milk frog, you’ll need an enclosure with enough height for them to climb.

9. Firebelly newts

It’s not just frogs and toads that are amphibians. Newts – like the firebelly newt – fit the bill, too.

Sometimes referred to as the Chinese firebelly newts, or the oriental firebelly newt, these striking pets are often characterized by their vibrant red-orange marking.

Considered to be aquatic as they live in bodies of water or in areas around them, these newts are active and hardy. Of course, just like other amphibians, there will be some work upfront to get their tank set up just right – as they thrive in cooler temperatures and clean water (so do read up on how to keep a tank clean), along with having access to some dry land and at least 12 hours of light.

But once this is all ticked off, they can live life right by your side for up to 30 years if cared for well.

10. Crested newts

Sturdy, robust and fairly easy to maintain, the crested newt could be another contender for your tank.

This wart-ridden charmer has a unique pattern of black spots on its orange underbelly, and it has a varied palette when it comes to their diet. For example, some will favor live foods like earthworms, shrimp, and bloodworms, while others might prefer fish food pellets.

Either way, they’ll need a body of water in which they can stretch their legs, but they’ll also yearn for some substrate where they can dry off and burrow.

11. Axolotl

Did you know you can have an axolotl as a pet? Well, that’s in some states, as these salamanders are illegal in certain places, like California, Maine, New Jersey, Washington, and Virginia. While in New Mexico and Hawaii, you’ll need a permit to keep these unique beauties.

But that said, these fairly low-maintenance amphibians, which are known best for their sweet smiles and feathery gills, are one of the more unusual pets. Remaining underwater their entire lives, so you’ll need a sturdy tank setup, these creatures are not to be handled. Once you have their housing needs sorted, they can live for up to 10 to 15 years.

12. Eastern newt

Mainly aquatic, Eastern newts are relatively easy to care for and if shown the right TLC, they can thrive in human company for 15 years (or more).

Native to the USA, Eastern newts’ habitat needs will shift between water and land, depending on their life stage. For example, they start their life underwater before moving onto land. They finally return to water as adults to breed.

Another word of warning? Eastern newts shouldn’t be handled and they are sensitive to heat. So if you’re considering making these amphibians your latest tank addition, do read up on the right care requirements to help them thrive.

13. Eastern tiger salamander

Here’s an exotic amphibian if ever there was one! In the wild, this large, robust and personable salamander is often found lurking in grassy fields, woodland areas and near bodies of water. So if you can replicate all of the above in a domestic setting, you’re onto a good thing.

Able to be kept with another tank mate, the key to living together under one roof in perfect harmony is to get this type of amphibian's humidity, light, and heat right, while ensuring there is enough food to go around. If not, eastern tiger salamanders have been known to eat each other when food sources are sparse.

14. African bullfrog

If you’re sure you can control the right humidity levels and recreate temperatures fit for an African bullfrog, then this amphibian could be your newest family member.

Known for their seemingly endless appetite, growing at up to 10 inches, it's been said that African bullfrogs can eat birds, lizards and snakes. But in captivity, these large-bodied frogs will favor invertebrates and other small vertebrates that they can fit in their mouth. So they could make for a great pet that isn't a cat or dog.

15. Australian Green Tree frog

Australian Green Tree frogs are another type of easy-to-look-after amphibian that comes with a relatively long lifespan when in captivity.

Known for reaching the grand old age of 16, if well cared for, Australian Green Tree frogs are celebrated for their loud bell-like call (so it's a wise idea not to keep their glass tank near where you sleep), sociable nature and their changing color, which can look more brown than green depending on the light, humidity and temperature in their habitat. Either way you look at it, these croakers will be fascinating to share a home with.

16. Tomato frogs

Best identified by their yellow-orange or bright red and orange coloring with black spots on their back, tomato frogs are brilliant at evading predators due to their number of defense mechanisms. For starters, they can release a toxic secretion through their skin. They can also inflate to deter predators.

But in captivity, this nocturnal species is pretty easy to look after (and keep safe). They might not need any special lighting requirements to satisfy their needs, but their tank will need to be kept at a 65–80% humidity level and set to stay at a temperature of between 65–85°F.

These loveable amphibians are also terrestrial, meaning they'll prefer to have more horizontal space (so they can burrow) instead of vertical.

17. American toad

Another toad to add to the list, this common American species comes with short legs, stout bodies, and lots of warts. Despite the common misconception, touching an American toad won't give you warts. However, these additions do play a vital role in the wild. That's because they contain glands that produce a poisonous fluid, which provides protection against predators.

Keen to keep an American toad as a pet? These semi-aquatic creatures require some fresh water, along with vegetation for cover. They'll also live happily when fed with a diet of crickets, mealworms and earthworms.

18. Southern toad

Starting out as herbivores as tadpoles and turning into carnivores as adults, this cold-blooded and smooth-skinned toad will favor a variety of terrestrial habitats – but it must be close to water.

Along with being able to eat up to 1,000 insects each day (yes, really!), this hardy toad is nocturnal, meaning it will come alive at night.

19. Gray tree frog

As their name suggests, gray tree frogs are an arboreal species that have webbed hands and feet and a penchant for climbing trees.

These large creatures will love feasting on mites, spiders, snails and slugs. And keen amphibian hobbyists will be pleased to know that, as long as you get their set-up right, these tree frogs will require very little upkeep – so they can be suitable for frog lovers who don't have bundles of spare time but still want to share their home with these fascinating critters.

20. Red eye tree frog

With their red eyes and red-tipped feet, red-eyed tree frogs are perhaps one of the most intriguing amphibians to look at and one of the wonderful but weird and unusual animals you might not have heard of before.

Living on a diet of insects, favoring damp substrate and growing to around 3 inches, this arboreal frog will need space to live, eat and climb. They will also need UVB lighting, the right heating and a water bowl as a source of freshwater.

Read next: Low-maintenance reptiles

Small, sociable and very (very) chatty, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to guinea pig facts. These cute little creatures might be a much-loved pet due to their relatively easy care needs (which makes them great low-maintenance pets). But there is so much more than meets the eye with these fur friends.

For starters, did you know that guinea pigs bear no relation to pigs? Or that they can ‘popcorn’? These herbivores also follow a strict veggie diet and you’ll most likely catch them eating non-stop due to their love for food and their forever-growing teeth.

To help you find out as much information about these captivating creatures as possible, we've rounded up all the guinea pig facts worth learning.

Facts about guinea pigs

1. They are called cavies

We might know (and love) guinea pigs by their so-called given name. But did you know these little sweet rodents are actually more formally referred to as 'cavies' or a 'domestic cavy'?

You might be wondering where they get this name from. But it’s actually a nickname for Cavia porcellus, which is a guinea pig’s proper scientific name.

2. Guinea pigs are social creatures

If you looked up guinea pig in the dictionary, you’d find it under the word ‘sociable’. That’s because these furry friends are known for being chatty little creatures who love nothing more than to chitter chatter all day (and night) long.

They’re so communicative that it really looks and sounds like they’re having a full-blown conversation with one another.

3. They aren’t actually related to pigs

This point is pretty surprising, given their name, right? While male guinea pigs are technically called ‘boars’ and females are called ‘sows’, cavies are classified as rodents, which means they aren’t part of the Suidae family, which pigs belong to.

Instead, legend has it that it’s their scientific name, Cavia porcellus, which has led to their pig-like moniker. That’s because in Latin the word ‘porcellus’ means ‘little pig’. You could also say their slight pig-like shape and sounds have also reinforced this, too.

4. They are known for popcorning

Now this has very little to do with the delectable snack often spotted in cinemas.

In the guinea pig world, popcorning refers to the act when these four-legged friends jump in the air very randomly to show how happy they are. Often likened to when a bunny binkies, this is a guinea pig's own way of showing you (and others) that they are on cloud nine. How sweet!

5. Guinea pigs aren’t from Guinea

It’s a wonder why guinea pigs go by this name at all, considering the little relevance they have to pigs and now the coastal country of Guinea.

Instead of hailing from West Africa’s Guinea, a guinea pig’s ancestors are believed to have originated from the Andes region of South America.

As to how they got this name, the jury is still out. One theory is that during the 16th century, these little creatures cost a guinea, and this name has stuck ever since.

6. They have unique toes

If you’ve ever been up close and personal with a guinea pig, you might have noticed that these rodents have three toes at the back and four toes in the front. But not all cavies are born equal.

Some Guinea pigs are polydactyly, which is a birth defect that means they could have more toes than normal. While this shouldn’t have an impact on the quality of their life, one tip for taking care of your guinea pig is to notify your vet. That's so they can check over your pet and make sure their extra pinkie isn’t causing them any pain or discomfort.

7. Their teeth never stop growing

These furry friends’ gnashers are one of the most intriguing things about guinea pigs as they have 20 open-rooted teeth, which means they’ll never stop growing.

Of course, good dental care is important for all pets – and guinea pigs are no different. Thankfully, these fur babies pretty much spend most of their lives constantly chewing so this can help them wear their teeth down and keep them at a comfortable length.

8. They make a range of noises

Whether it’s through their ‘wheeking’, purring or ‘chutting’ sounds, these social butterflies might appear standoffish or shy on the surface. But once they get to know you and feel comfortable in your presence, they’ll love conversing with you and their hutch friends.

So, if you’re lucky enough to be the very proud pet parent of a cavy, it’s well worth reading up on a guinea pig’s noises and body language so you can fully understand them.

9. They’re veggies

Another fascinating fact about guinea pigs? These pets are herbivores, which means they’ll only feed on plant-based foods.

This might sound limiting, but there are many things guinea pigs can eat to help keep their diet and nutrition on point. For example, if you’re wondering what guinea pigs eat, along with hay and grass, they’ll love digging their teeth into cucumber, kiwis and raspberries – and the same goes for carrots, parsley and baby corn. The veggie world is their oyster!

10. They like the cool

With all that fur, it’s no wonder these little piggies much prefer a cooler space to eat, sleep and play rather than a warm spot.

But the more scientific reason is that guinea pigs lack sweat glands, which means they’re unable to perspire to help cool themselves down.

Instead, it’s best to find these fur friends a cool spot inside or outside in one of the best hutches with the best bedding for guinea pigs to keep them comfortable and clean.

11. They can’t produce their own Vitamin C

Most animals can produce their own vitamin C. But, just like monkeys, guinea pigs are the only other animal that can’t do so. This means that they have to get it through their diet in order to prevent scurvy.

So, if you have a guinea pig, you should be feeding your pet vegetables that are high in this micronutrient, such as lots of spinach leaves, broccoli, kale, green peppers, and red peppers. You can also add vitamin C drops to your guinea pig’s water on a daily basis.

12. They’re active for up to 20 hours of the day

Yes, really! If you’re a dog or cat parent, you might be used to these fur babies dozing for most of the day. But guinea pigs, on the other hand, tend to sleep a whole lot less than other common household pets.

Some guinea pig parents say that their fur friend sleeps for just four to six hours a day. So instead of napping, you’ll most likely see these cute little critters eating, chewing or playing.

13. They are crepuscular

Along with needing a lot less sleep than other conventional fur friends, guinea pigs are crepuscular. This means that they are most active at dawn and dusk.

That's because guinea pigs are prey animals, which means if they’re awake during the twilight hours, they are more likely to evade predators. While domesticated guinea pigs (hopefully) need not worry about predators in your home, it's a natural habit that they still exhibit.

14. They eat their own excrement

But only if it’s the right kind! It might sound (very!) strange, but it’s common for herbivores, like guinea pigs, to be cophrophages (which means they gobble up poop). Rabbits eat their own poop, too.

To put it simply, the first round of a guinea pig’s poops are soft and called caecotrophs. This is the type of excrement they eat, as they are rich in vitamins and nutrients. While the drier poops, which they excrete after, is what guinea pig pet parents will clean up from the cage.

15. They can live for a long time

With the right care, love, diet and housing – generally speaking, guinea pigs tend to live for around seven years. But in some instances, this can be longer.

According to Guinness World Records, UK-based Snowball holds the record as the oldest guinea pig to have graced this earth, as he lived until he was ten and a half months old, before passing away in 1979.

16. Guinea pigs mark their scent

On the surface, it doesn’t seem like guinea pigs have a lot in common with cats and dogs. But what trait all three of these common pets do share is the act of marking their scent.

According to the RSPCA, guinea pigs use urine and secretions to mark out their territory, which can cover 1,500m².

17. They date back to 5,000 BCE

If, like us, you’re wondering how long these adorable balls of fluff have been roaming Earth with their presence, wonder no more.

Word has it that these precious little piggies are one of the oldest domesticated breeds on the planet, with records showing that they have lived alongside humans since 5,000 BCE!

18. They can run even when only a few hours old

Now here’s a fun fact for you! Did you know, guinea pigs can pretty much run and scamper around their cage when they are first born?

They are also born with their eyes open and a full coat of fur!

19. They can learn tricks

Guinea pigs are intelligent creatures, and without enough mental and physical stimulation, they will get bored.

This means it’s well worth investing in a large hutch, to help keep them entertained and filling it with a selection of the best guinea pig accessories, like tunnels, hammocks and balls. Or invest in one of the best rabbit runs. You could also try and teach these clever fur balls tricks, like spinning in a circle or coming when their name is called.

20. Guinea pigs create their own ‘cleaning product’

If you’ve got a guinea pig, you might have noticed that they secrete a white fluid around their eyes. While it’s tempting to wipe this liquid away, these clever creations actually use this to wash themselves with.

Read next: Interesting rabbit facts

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

Adorable, short-tailed little rodents, hamsters make delightful pets. Their diminutive size, radar ears, paintbrush paws and habit of stuffing their cheeks full of morsels to save for later makes them particularly endearing.

But did you know that the pet hamsters we know and love only scratch the surface of the many different types of hamster in the world? These rodents belong to the sub-family “cricetinae”, and there are around 19 different species under that umbrella. Of these, only five are commonly kept as pets.

The others typically roam free in their natural habitat, foraging at night-time – which is a habit pet hamsters perpetuate even when there is no predatory threat in the home.

Let’s take a look at some of the different types of hamster, their native habitats – and their scientific names that denote which species they belong to.

Types of hamsters

1. Syrian (teddy bear)

Commonly kept as pets, Syrian hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus) – also known as golden hamsters – are all one species, but there are dozens of different colors. In terms of coat types, there are three main types.

The long-hair version is nicknamed “teddy bear”, and their silky locks can grow up to 10cm, with males growing longer hair than females.

2. Syrian (satin)

The satin Syrian hamster has shiny, glossy fur, which can be either short or long. The fur can appear to shimmer as the individual hairs are more translucent than other coat types.

However, you can get too much of a good thing, as two satins bred together tend to produce offspring with dull coats.

3. Syrian (Rex)

Rex Syrians can be either short or long-haired, but their coats and whiskers are curly, crimped or wavy. The Rex gene is recessive and therefore these hamsters are fairly rare.

The hamster pictured, while it has a slightly frizzy coat is unlikely to be a true Rex as the whiskers are not curled.

4. Syrian (short-haired)

A Syrian or golden hamster with short, smooth fur. They can be considered the classic Syrian, as the first hamsters discovered had short hair.

They come with benefits – they need minimal grooming as their fur doesn’t tangle or collect bedding and debris.

5. Syrian (hairless)

The hairless Syrian hamster has a gene that affects the outer layer of the skin with the hair follicles. This is a genetic mutation which is most commonly seen in Syrians, and unfortunately the life expectancy of such hamsters is considerably shorter than the hairy ones.

They have very sensitive and fragile skin, without a protective furry layer, and minimal whiskers. They also struggle to keep warm without that insulation and so have a rocketing metabolism.

6. Chinese (normal/wild)

There are three main variations of the Chinese hamster (Cricetulus griseus) while the Chinese striped hamster (Cricetulus barabensis) is closely related and looks very similar. This species has a mouse-like appearance.

The “normal” or “wild” Chinese hamster has a dark brownish-gray coat, white tummy and a dark dorsal stripe. This type is commonly domesticated – the wild being a reference to the coloring – and is a popular pet.

7. Chinese (dominant spot)

The dominant spot Chinese – also called the “spotted white” – is a variation that is common in pet hamsters. This version is white with coloured spots, speckles or patches.

8. Chinese (black-eyed white)

The black-eyed white Chinese hamster is a relatively new mutation, and is much the rarest of the three color variations of this species. There are very few in existence and confined to breeders in the UK.

9. Campbell’s dwarf

The Campbell’s dwarf hamster (Phodopus campbelli) was named in honour of Charles William Campbell, the first collector of this breed. They are kept as pets. In common with other “phodopus” hamsters, they live in groups in the wild.

Similar in looks to the Djungarian hamster (winter white), with a few differences, notably that they aren’t as well adapted to withstand very low temperatures.

They typically have brown or grey fur with a narrow dorsal stripe, a grey belly and small ears.

10. Winter white (Russian) dwarf

The winter white (Phodopus sungorus) goes by many names: Russian dwarf, Djungarian, striped dwarf, Siberian dwarf and more, and are around half the size of Syrians.

In the wild, they usually have grey fur with a thick dark dorsal stripe, however when winter comes this dark fur is replaced with white. This acts as a camouflage to protect them from predators in the snow. This is the main way to tell them apart from the very similar Campbell’s dwarf.

This amazing coat change is less likely to happen when they are kept as domestic pets, due to artificial light.

11. Robo (Roborovski) dwarf

One of the three Phodopus species, the Roborovski hamster (Phodopus roborovski) is also known as “desert hamster” and is the smallest of this tiny species.

Distinguishing features include pale patches above the eyes, sandy coat (to match its original desert habitat) and no dorsal stripe.

The diminutive Robo is known for its extraordinary speed and stamina. They are popular – if slightly skittish – pets.

12. Black-bellied (European)

The black-bellied (Cricetus cricetus) is a gorgeous wild hamster, with brown fur, white patches and its signature black belly. It is the largest known hamster species, and also goes by the name European or Eurasian hamster.

While they have been viewed as a pest, they are now critically endangered.

13. Brandt’s

The same species as the Syrian hamster to which it is closely related, the Brandt’s hamster (Mesocricetus brandti) is also known as the Turkish or Azerbaijani hamster, or the Avurtlak.

Their eye-catching coats are sandy, tan and dark brown. They are known to be aggressive and therefore not kept as pets. They are native to Turkey, Armenia and countries close by, and tend to live in dry, rocky steppe habitats high above sea level.

14. Gansu

The Gansu hamster (Cansumys canus) is native to China, specifically the Gansu province. It is not closely related to any of our common pet hamsters.

A study on the the Cansumys canus suggests that this species has certain morphological features that imply its natural habitat is mountain forests, and that it may even live in trees.

15. Mongolian

Found in Mongolia, but also in China and Russia, the Mongolian hamster (Allocricetulus curtatus) is wild and not kept as a pet. However, they do have similarities in appearance with Chinese hamster. The Mongolian gerbil, on the other hand, is commonly domesticated!

Unlike many wild hamsters, the Mongolian is not considered endangered.

16. Eversmann’s

The Eversmann’s or Kazakh hamster (Allocricetulus eversmanni) is very similar to the Mongolian hamster, and is found in the deserts and semi-deserts of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan China and Russia.

They are wild, and have soft gray-brown or sandy fur with a white belly with a characteristic dark spot on their chest. They are short and stocky.

17. Sokolov's dwarf

This adorable dwarf hamster (Cricetulus sokolovi) is very similar to the Chinese, and has in its history been marked as the Chinese striped though is officially a distinct species.

Grey with a yellow hue and a distinctive dorsal stripe, these beautiful hamsters live in burrows in the deserts of Mongolia and China. They are not kept as pets.

18. Dobrudja

The Dobrudja – or Romanian – hamster (Mesocricetus newtoni) is closely related to the much more familiar Syrian type that is much loved in our homes.

However, the Dobrudja is not kept as a pet, instead its natural habitat is the arid, shrubby plains of Romania and Bulgaria.

19. Armenian

The Armenian hamster (Nothocricetulus migratorius) also goes by the name gray dwarf – which describes its appearance perfectly. This hamster, unlike many other wild species, is not endangered and is said to be even more common than mice in Armenia!

It has a wide population spread, from Eastern Europe to Asia, and typically lives at least 1,000m above sea level, preferring dry landscapes and semi-deserts.

20. Greater long-tailed

Hamsters are known for having very short tails, however the greater long-tailed (Tscherskia triton) is the exception. Resembling rats more than hamsters, they have long tails, gray coloring and are much larger than most hamster species. They are typically aggressive, whether in the breeding or non-breeding season.

They are not kept as pets, and are native to Siberia, China and the Korean Peninsula – they are also named the Korean hamster.

Low-maintenance reptiles can be a great choice if you're a novice pet owner or someone who has a hectic lifestyle with not a lot of time leftover to devote to a pet.

There are lots of different types of reptile you can keep as a pet and the ones on this list are typically very hardy and most don't require elaborate set ups in order to thrive. They still require basic care, but the majority are happy to do their own thing and won't be demanding frequent attention.

As an added bonus, many reptiles enjoy long lifespans, so they can be a great choice if you're looking for a display pet who will be around for years to come. It's worth bearing in mind that some of the reptiles on this list will live for 50 years or more, so while they're certainly low-maintenance they do require a long-term commitment.

Low-maintenance reptiles

1. Leopard gecko

An easy-to-care-for pet with a docile nature, the leopard gecko can live up to 20 years when looked after correctly. A breeze to handle and requiring minimal care, these nocturnal reptiles get their name because of their yellow and white coloring and black spots.

Measuring 8-10 inches in length, leopard geckos (or leos as they're affectionately called) are slow-moving, vocal and gentle as long as they're handled with care.

2. Bearded dragon

A great starter pet for reptile enthusiasts, the bearded dragon is native to Australia and grows to around 24 inches in length. Beardies will flare out the skin underneath their chin when feeling threatened, making them look like they have a beard, which is how they got their name.

Good bearded dragon care (such as ensuring they have a good tank setup with hiding areas and basking rocks) will help this calm, gentle and placid lizard live for up to 10 years.

3. Corn snake

Corn snakes make fantastic pets thanks to how docile and low-maintenance they are. Active at dawn and dusk, these snakes are typically low-key and will tolerate being handled. They can grow to around four feet long on average and have a lifespan of between 15 and 20 years.

Like all snakes, corn snakes are master escape artists, so you'll want to make sure you have a very tight fitting lid on their tank to prevent them from getting out.

4. Blue-tongued skink

One of the best pet reptiles, the blue-tongued skink is laid-back, intelligent and easily tamed. These docile, quiet and gentle lizards hail from Australia and are known for forming strong bonds with their owners.

Their elongated body can reach 24 inches and length and most will live for 15-20 years with the correct care. While blue-tongued skinks are not aggressive, they will bite if they feel threatened and they have very strong teeth so bites can be painful.

For that reason, it's always worth supervising children when they're interacting with this skink.

5. Ball python

Named because for the way they curl up in a tight ball when feeling threatened, the ball python can grow to around 4-5 feet in length and if cared for correctly, they can live for a whopping 30 years!

Ball pythons are solitary and nocturnal, and are typically very docile and gentle, which makes them easy to handle. Calm and non-aggressive, ball pythons are well-mannered and while they're generally friendly, most are also quite shy.

6. Russian Tortoise

Russian Tortoises are native to the desserts of Russia, Iran, Pakistan and Afghanistan and live in large, underground burrows which they hibernate in for many months of the year due to the extreme temperatures.

Reaching around 8-10 inches in length when fully grown, these hardy creatures can live for up to 60 years with the right care. Docile yet active, Russian Tortoises are very curious and responsive to their owners but most prefer not to be handled.

7. Kingsnake

Ground-dwelling kingsnakes are widespread in the US and are happy in a range of different habitats from forests to deserts. They typically hide out in rodent burrows and under logs, so you'll want to make sure that their tank environment mimics their natural habitat.

Kingsnakes are mainly active during the day and they're not venomous, although some will nip when stressed. On the whole, however, they are docile, adaptable, inquisitive and easy to tame and most will live between 10–30 years with the right care.

8. Red-eared slider

With the correct care (a large tank, special lighting and a diverse diet, for example) red eared sliders have been known to live for 20 years in captivity. A popular pet with a personable and friendly nature, they are happy to interact with their owners during feeding time, but for the most part, they prefer to be left alone.

Despite their friendliness and tendency to greet their humans at the side of their tank at mealtimes, they are note affectionate and don't enjoy being picked up. However, if you're happy with a pet you can enjoy watching, the enchanting red-eared slider could well be the creature for you.

9. Crested gecko

The crested gecko is a low-maintenance pet perfect for novice lizard owners. Considered extinct until 1994 when large populations were found on islands off the Australian coast, these powerful jumpers quickly became beloved pets.

Growing to eight inches in length and with a lifespan of 15–20 years, crested geckos are relatively calm and placid, and while they don't necessarily enjoy being handled for long periods, they will tolerate short stints.

10. Panther chameleon

With their beautifully colored bodies and fast tongues, the elegant panther chameleon is a spectacular creature to behold. Males can grow to 21 inches in length with females being much shorter at 14 inches, but both have a lifespan of around eight years when they receive the correct care.

Slow moving, docile and quiet, their mood is often reflected by their changing colors and they're known for being more relaxed than other chameleon species. However, it's worth noting that excessive handling can cause stress, so they're more of a display pet than a hands-on one.

11. Spiny-tailed lizard

While it's legal to own a spiny-tailed lizard in the United States, it's not a common choice of pet. That's largely due to the fact that very few countries allow this little creature to be exported, so they're rare and hard to come by.

Still, if you manage to get your hands on one, the spiny-tailed lizard will certainly prove to be the talking point of your home! These creatures are very low maintenance as they only require vegetation for food and their enclosure needs aren't complicated either – they just need a warm tank with plenty of rocks where they can bask and hide.

The spiny-tailed lizard can live for up to 30 years and while they're very gentle, they don't like to be handled.

12. Eastern box turtle

The eastern box turtle is found in woodlands across the Chesapeake watershed in the US. This small reptile measures just six inches in length and has a lifespan of around 40 years.

Eastern box turtles are brown with orange and yellow markings and their toes are only slightly webbed. Typically docile and shy, these turtles are active during the day and enjoy foraging for food.

They tend to be able to recognize the voice of their favorite human and while they don't like being handled, many will interact with their owners by playing with toys.

13. Green anole

A small lizard native to the southern United States, the striking green anole are known for their eye-catching green skin and the bright red fold of skin over their throat.

They're a great choice for beginners as they're very easy to care for and while they are known for being skittish and shy, over time they can learn to tolerate short and gentle handling.

However, it's worth noting that on the whole, they are best as display pets, so that's something to keep in mind if you have children in your family. Most green anoles will live for 5-8 years with the correct care.

14. Gargoyle gecko

Found only on the southern end of the island of New Caledonia in the south-west Pacific, the gargoyle gecko has an easygoing and relaxed nature. Their triangular-shaped head, large bulging eyes and their ability to take on a variety of colors has made them a very popular pet in recent years.

Measuring 6-10 inches in length, gargoyle geckos can live for 20 years and because they're so friendly, they adapt really well to being kept as a pet. While generally placid, they can be territorial with other geckos and for that reason, they're best kept alone unless in a bonded pair.

15. Chinese Water Dragon

Native to southern China and Southeast Asia, the Chinese Water Dragon is relatively small with females measuring two feet in length and males growing to reach three feet.

They tend to live for around 14-16 years and while they're popular pets, many people underestimate their advanced needs and specific care requirements. Chinese Water Dragons need large enclosures measuring at least six feet in length, three feet in depth and six feet in height. They need a good pool of water that they can submerge at least half their height in and the temperature and lighting in the tank need to be kept at the correct levels for bone health.

They are social creatures who like to live in pairs or groups and they're one of the friendliest lizards so they don't mind being handled.

16. Hermann's tortoise

The gentle and calm Hermann's tortoise hails from Mediterranean Europe where it lives in rocky hillsides and forests. Mild mannered and beautiful to look at, this little tortoise measures just 6-8 inches in length and can live for a mind-blowing 75 years with the right care.

While they prefer not to be handled, they're typically very social and will often approach their owners in search of food. They also enjoy being around other Hermann's tortoises and are very active with a love of running, digging and foraging. It's worth noting that these tortoises do not do well inside, so you'll want to house them in an outdoor enclosure.

17. Red-footed tortoise

A long-lived reptile who will easily reach the age of 50, the red-footed tortoise is native to Central and South America, and the Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Barbados.

They require specific temperatures and humidity levels to thrive and their diet should be made up of dark leafy greens, vegetables, fruit and animal protein. Docile and easy going, they are active during the day and spend a lot of time digging and foraging.

Curious and known to approach their owners at feeding time, the red-footed tortoise is friendly but is easily stressed by excessive handling.

18. Frilled-necked lizard

Hailing from Australia, the frilled-neck lizard is a rare but fascinating little creature with a spectacular frill around their neck that they use as a defence mechanism when feeling threatened.

Typically docile and non-aggressive, frilled-neck lizards are quick and agile and while they're not overly fond of being handled, they make excellent pets due to their calm nature and relatively straightforward care needs. Frilled-neck lizards grow to around three feet in length and most will live for around 10-15 years.

19. Red-eyed crocodile skink

Endemic to New Guinea where it lives in tropical rainforests, the red-eyed crocodile skink is a shy and secretive little critter who does best when kept as a display pet. They love to hide and can become very stressed when handled, so keeping this to a minimum will ensure they remain happy and healthy in their habitat.

The red-eyed crocodile skink has very specific care needs, so their enclosure must contain moisture-retaining substrate in the form of bark and moss, as well as high humidity levels but cooler temperatures.

As long as they are looked after correctly, most red-eyed crocodile skinks can live for 10 years, with some living longer.

20. Greek tortoise

Greek tortoises are native to Southern Europe, Southwest Asia and Northern Africa where they inhabit various terrains including grasslands, rocky hillsides and forests.

They have a friendly, calm, gentle and interactive nature, which is why they've become so popular as pets. They are social creatures who enjoy the company of their owners, but like all tortoises, they can become stressed when handled so this is best kept to a minimum.

Greek tortoises do require a long-term commitment as most will live for 50 to 100 years when kept in favorable conditions.

Edited by Georgia Guerin.

Reptile tanks look very impressive when set up correctly, but achieving the perfect environment for your scaly friend is harder than it looks. In fact, reptile tank setup mistakes occur more often than you might think; there are so many factors at play, and a great deal of expertise goes into cultivating an ideal home.

What's more, there are no blanket conditions that can apply to all reptile species; from tortoises to lizards and turtles to snakes, each species needs a different setup to match their native environment.

Light, temperature, humidity, enrichment – these are just some of the details a potential reptile owner must know inside out to avoid common reptile tank setup mistakes. So, without further ado, let's dive into what can go wrong – and how to ensure it doesn't.

Reptile tank setup mistakes

1. Size

When it comes to housing reptiles, enclosure size has a huge effect on quality of life. Every reptile species is different, with its own set of territory and exercise requirements, and climate conditions to maintain.

While there may be a sale on a certain type of tank at your local pet store, starting with a tank of the incorrect size can cause stress and make it difficult to maintain appropriate humidity or temperature. While it might seem like bigger is always better, this isn't necessarily the case.

2. Substrate

What's under your reptile's feet is more influential than you might think, and using the wrong substrate on the floor of your tank could lead to a trip to the vet.

There are a variety of substrate options out there, but, as with many aspects of reptile care, there isn't really a one-size-fits-all option to act as an all-rounder for all reptile species. For example, while desert-dwelling species such as bearded dragons and sand boas love to burrow in a sand substrate, this material could cause impaction or injury in other species.

Similarly, some substrates can have an overwhelming effect on conditions inside the tank. For example, bark-based substrates help maintain high humidity, which is perfect for rainforest species, but not for reptiles that thrive in a dry environment. Always research safe, species-specific options.

3. Humidity

Speaking of humidity, each reptile has specific humidity needs that owners need to cater to, and using the wrong level can lead to dehydration or respiratory problems.

So, what factors affect humidity? As discussed above, substrate plays a role as well as heat lamp bulb type and misting technique, timing, and frequency. Be mindful, too, of where your tank is placed in your home; next the the bathroom might not be ideal for a dry air-loving pet!

4. Zones

Reptiles, of course, are cold-blooded and rely on their external environment to regulate their temperature. This means their tank shouldn't be one consistent temperature; rather, they require a warm and cool side to their enclosure, as well as a basking zone where the heat is most concentrated. This means they can use the different zones to thermoregulate appropriately.

So, how do you achieve this? One or more lamps will help you get the balance right, but make sure you research appropriate temperature ranges for your chosen reptile and maintain them at all times.

5. Temperature

Take out the guesswork by making sure your reptile tank's heat sources have a proper thermostat. Overheating is dangerous, so it's vital to keep control of each heat-emitting device, be it a heat mat, lamp, or ceramic heater, with a thermostat.

You can back up the heat reading on these devices with a thermometer to check they are performing as they should be.

6. Thermometers

Another of the top reptile tank setup mistakes to avoid is using only one thermometer. Use multiple thermometers to monitor basking, ambient, and cool areas accurately.

7. Airflow

Ventilation in a terrarium prevents stagnant air from accumulating. You can buy tanks with vents included, fit vent grids yourself, or even buy open-top enclosures that are fully meshed in place of an upper pane.

Of course, while an open-top tank offers great ventilation, this setup won't foster the highly humid environment some reptile species need. That said, a lack of airflow can cause a rise in temperature, mold growth, or even respiratory illness, so no matter the tank type, you need to ensure the tank has proper ventilation. If your tank's ventilation is less than ideal, you might find that using a fan helps to push hot air out, boost airflow, and help restore ideal conditions for your scaly friend.

8. Introducing new pets

Got an established tank and want to add a second reptile? Before introducing your new pet to his ready-made enclosure – and an existing friend – it’s really important to keep him separate from your other reptiles. Placing him in quarantine allows you to check for signs of disease or parasites. Keep him in a separate tank in a different room and ensure you practise biosecurity by washing your hands in between tending to your two tanks. This way, you keep your existing pets free from the risk of illness.

So, how long to quarantine a reptile? There are various opinions, with some keepers recommending up to six months. However, the consensus is a minimum of 90 days, with a vet exam before you introduce your new reptile to the communal tank.

9. Lighting

Appropriate lighting isn't just about heat and, well, light. It's the type of lighting that matters, too.

Reptiles need exposure to both UVA and UVB rays. UVB is essential for calcium absorption and bone health in many reptiles, so check your bulbs before you invest.

10. Day/night cycle

One of the biggest reptile tank setup mistakes concerns providing a proper day/night cycle. Whether your reptile is diurnal (awake during the day), nocturnal (awake during the night), or crepuscular (awake at dawn and dusk), it requires a proper simulation of day and night to maintain its circadian rhythm and support its natural behaviours.

So, don't leave your tank's lights on 24/7. Rather, adopt a 12 hours on, 12 hours off system, or whatever is recommended for your specific species.

11. Water

Choosing a water dish might not seem like a big deal, but there are a few things to consider. Firstly, material; a plastic dish might be upturned by a larger reptile, while a glass one, though stable and easy to clean, could potentially break. Furthermore, smaller lizards and snakes will want a shallow bowl, whereas a water turtle would want a deeper, larger dish.

A dish that is too deep risks drowning, while one that is too small or hard to access could lead to dehydration.

12. Overcrowding

Make sure your tank is the right size for the number of reptiles you want to keep there. Overcrowding can lead to stress, aggression, or illness, especially if your chosen reptile is a solitary species. Speak to a specialist at a reputable reptile store or a vet for advice, as this will inform the tank size, or indeed the reptile species, you buy.

If one of your reptiles becomes aggressive to its tankmates and the tank size is confirmed appropriate, you can try rearranging rocks and other features to mix up established territories, or even remove the aggressor.

13. Hiding places

Your reptile tank needs to be an appropriate playground for its scaly inhabitants. That means its features should satisfy your reptile's need to climb, bask, burrow, and hide as appropriate. After all, reptiles need both stimulation and security.

Substrate will come into this, but ensuring you have an appropriate offering of climbing structures, hides, and even reptile-safe live plants will help avoid stress and boredom.

14. Food

Before you bring your reptilian pal home, make sure you've adequately researched and prepared their menu. While it might seem most stimulating to offer live prey to tap into hunting instincts, you should proceed with caution: some reptiles need live prey, others don’t.

What's more, reptile species have a diverse range of dietary needs. There are so many surprising things that turtles can eat, like blackberries and crickets. Then you have insect-eating geckos or the meat-only diet of corn snakes. It's important to research thoroughly, as an improper diet can lead to malnutrition or obesity.

15. Cleaning

Infrequent tank cleaning is a big no-no. As a rule, reptile tanks should be deep cleaned weekly, which involves the removal of all enclosure contents to clean and replace or throw away, plus disinfecting the tank itself. Tanks should also be spot-cleaned daily, which involves removing dung and urine, wiping up spills, and clearing shed skin and uneaten food. Water should also be changed daily.

Neglecting spot cleans and deep cleans leads to odor, bacterial buildup, and potential health issues.

16. Handling

New reptiles need time to adjust, and frequent handling causes stress. You might be keen to bond with your new reptile, but handling them too much, too soon can harm the process. Be patient, give him time, and then gently encourage more interaction.

17. Knowlegde

As we've covered extensively in this list, each reptile species has specific needs. Whether you're a total reptile-owning newbie or have vast experience with one or two other species, don't rely on guesswork or aesthetics when you buy a new reptile. Consult reputable experts, like specialist reptile stores, vets, and the sources they recommend, and you can't go far wrong.

18. Safety

Tank décor needs to be appropriate, so don't be fooled by a deal you see online somewhere. Sharp objects, loose rocks, or unstable logs can injure your reptile, so while a viral reptile toy might be half off, your pet's safety is priceless. If possible, go to a store to 'try before you buy', and ask for expert advice while you're there.

19. Room to grow

Do you know the adult size of your new reptile? Misjudging growth size happens more often than you think, and some reptiles grow much larger than expected. Don't rush into buying a tank, and make sure you plan for adult size when choosing one. It may dwarf your new pet when they first arrive, but you don't want to cultivate the best reptile environment only to have to buy a new tank and start from scratch again!

20. Getting help

In this day and age, misinformation can spread like wildfire online. Not everything you see on Google is accurate, and as a general rule, you should look for further evidence if you come across a source that seems to scaremonger or be too good to be true. Use reputable reptile care guides or vet-approved sources where credentials are clear and verifiable.

Read next: Best toys for pet lizards

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Rabbits can die from heatstroke, so it’s crucial that you know how to keep your bunny cool when the weather gets warmer. Since they are unable to sweat to regulate their body temperature, it’s particularly important to give them a helping hand.

Your rabbit’s environment shouldn’t exceed 77°F (25°C), and if it’s too hot, you might notice them breathe more rapidly, drink more than usual, pant, or have warmer ears. As well as keeping them cool, you’ll need to check their bottom multiple times throughout the day during the summer to ensure they don’t have flystrike, a parasitic condition where flies lay their eggs on another animal.

Keeping them well hydrated and out of direct sunlight is top of the list, but there are a few other ways you can help, which vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan has explained below. She’s a qualified vet with 16 years of experience working with small animals, and she’s here to help you keep your rabbit safe this summer.

How to keep a rabbit cool in summer

1. Hydration

Provide your rabbit with plenty of cool water to keep them hydrated. While it’s easier for them to drink from a bowl, Dr MacMillan recommends using an additional drinking bottle if they’re prone to knocking it over! To ensure their drinking bottle stays cold, you can buy an insulating cover that slips over the top.

2. A ceramic or slate tile

One of the easiest ways to keep your rabbit cool is by giving them a ceramic or slate tile to lie on. If you don’t have any around the house, you can buy tiles specifically made for rabbits to put in their living area – or invest in one of the best pet cooling mats (which needs to be checked regularly for chewing damage).

Alternatively, if you’re on a budget, Dr MacMillan also recommends a damp towel to sit on or a partially frozen bottle of water wrapped in a towel.

Note: Never cover your rabbit in a damp towel or cloth.

3. Electric fan

Just like us, rabbits will also appreciate a refreshing breeze from an electric fan – and you can even buy ones that attach to their cage or hutch! If you do opt for these, make sure you check them regularly for damage, advises Dr MacMillan.

If you don't have time to keep an eye on it, you can always place a tower fan next to their enclosure, which they won't be able to nibble on.

4. Regular grooming

Did you know that regular grooming can help your rabbit feel cooler and more comfortable in the summer? While you should brush your rabbit year-round, it becomes even more important in hot weather, as it helps remove excess dead fur.

Dr MacMillan adds: "You should be checking your rabbit twice a day for flystrike during warm weather anyway so you can add a little extra brushing in while you are at it."

Signs of heatstroke in rabbits

Heatstroke can occur when your rabbit is exposed to high temperatures and can lead to seizures, organ damage, and even death. If they show any of the following signs, take them to a vet immediately:

• Weakness
• Panting
• Drooling
• Hot or red ears
• Collapsing
• Seizure

For more advice, read our tips for taking care of rabbits

Edited by Georgia Guerin and Alexis De Leaver.

Having been a hamster parent myself for many years, here are my top hamster care tips to keep your hamster happy and healthy. Hamsters are a super first-time pet –they’re tiny, adorable, and always up to something fun!

Whether they’re zooming around in their wheel or stuffing their cheeks with food, hamsters have a way of making us smile on a daily basis. While they may seem low-maintenance at first glance, these energetic little creatures do need a bit of TLC to stay healthy and happy. If you’re a hamster newbie, knowing the right ways to keep your hamster happy is crucial to help these pocket-sized pets thrive.

Here are 32 simple tips to help you keep your hamster in great shape. From selecting the right diet to filling their cage with exciting (and safe) activities, we have the inside scoop on all you need to know.

32 hamster care tips

1. Choose the right cage

Hamsters may be diminutive but they enjoy having plenty of space. One of the best hamster cages will provide that. Cages are usually made of metal wire, or are tank-style, which is like a plastic aquarium with a lid. The wire cages allow better ventilation, although bear in mind the hamster may try chewing the bars.

The crucial thing is that the hamster has ample space – the bigger the better. A recommendation is a minimum of half a square meter (20 square inches) for the smallest breeds, and 24 square inches for a Syrian (this can include multiple platforms). The PDSA stipulates at least 100 x 50 x 50cm (40 x 20 x 20in), but – put simply – get the largest you can, for a happy hamster. In the wild they can run up to five miles a day (or, more likely, at night)!

2. Type of bedding

There are plenty of rodent beddings on the market that aren’t actually at all suitable for hamsters. The basic rules are that the bedding should allow the hamster to burrow and nest while being water-soluble and free of toxins in case the hamster decides to eat it. Scented bedding may smell appealing, but it’s full of chemicals and therefore unsuitable.

Wood shavings are complicated because there are good and bad woods. Avoid pine and cedar. Cat litter is suitable as a substrate, but needs to be covered with something less dense and softer to allow the hamster to burrow. However, avoid the super-fluffy kapok as it can cause blockages if ingested and the fibers can wrap around delicate feet.

A soft, undyed, paper-based bedding is ideal.

3. Cleaning schedule

As pets go, hamsters are fairly clean animals, with minimal smell – especially the females. However, you should still clean the cage out every couple of weeks or so, as well as spot-cleaning on a more regular basis.

4. Happy hideouts

As hamsters are prey animals, wide open spaces can be scary. Make sure your hamster has plenty of nooks and crannies where he can dive for “safety” as he will feel vulnerable resting without cover.

5. Exercise wheel

Hamsters in the wild run over five miles a night, and your pet hammy will be similarly energetic. Naturally, you cannot provide a cage large enough to allow him to rack up quite such mileage, but a hamster wheel is the ideal solution. Hamsters are incredible in the way they pound on their little treadmill for hours on end – they’d put any human gym bunnies to shame!

Choose your hamster wheel wisely – a solid one is better as their little feet can get caught in the gaps of a wire one. You’ll also need to ensure the diameter is sufficiently long so as not to cause them to arch their back as they sprint.

6. Chew toys

Hamsters’ teeth never stop growing, so they need chews to gnaw on to wear their teeth down. You can get some of the best hamster toys at pet shops, avoiding the sugary treats. A good option is untreated wood, but it’s wise to have a few different toys dotted around the cage to encourage foraging and prevent boredom.

7. Fresh water

Many hamster breeds come from desert areas but that doesn’t mean you can withhold water. Always provide 24-hour access to clean, fresh water, ideally in a sipper water bottle with a metal spout and ball bearing that prevents dripping.

8. The right diet

Wild hamsters eat seeds, cereals, insects, and larvae. The diet we feed these omnivorous creatures should provide all the essential nutrients.

A specifically formulated hamster pellet is ideal, as well as tiny amounts of vegetables or fruit. They can also have some nuts and seeds, millet, mealworm – and even boiled egg for additional protein. Be sure to read up on what hamsters can eat if you are offering any additional food.

Feed from the floor of the cage, either in a flat bowl or directly on the floor. The hamster is likely to squirrel some away in their pouches and take it back to their den for safekeeping.

Do not feed wet food unless specifically advised by your vet as it can cause problems with their pouches.

9. Treats in moderation

If you compare your size and the treats you eat with the respective size of a hamster and his appropriate treat size, you’ll appreciate just how small any additional snacks should be. One tip is that their treats should be no bigger than their ears!

Sugary treats are not appropriate; instead, a teaspoon of hamster-safe fruits or veg, a millet spray, or half a walnut or cashew (always unsalted) are more suitable. They tend to love sunflower seeds and enjoy cracking open the shells. Dried insects such as crickets and mealworms go down well too.

10. Toxic foods

Although hamsters are omnivorous – literally meaning “all-devouring” – there are plenty of foods that hamsters shouldn’t eat. If in doubt, do not feed it, as hamsters have adventurous palettes and might well gobble up something entirely unsuitable with potentially catastrophic consequences.

11. Ambient temperature

Hamsters are great companions for humans because they tend to thrive in similar temperatures to ourselves – around 20–22ºC (68–72ºF), with decent tolerance for a bit above or below.

12. Handle with care

Although hamsters are often touted as a great first pet, they do need careful handling as they are delicate, fragile creatures and can be a little skittish when young and unaccustomed to being picked up.

For this reason, it’s best left to older children and adults. Some hammies enjoy being handled more than others, and they can bite if they feel threatened. Make sure they are fully awake before trying to pick them up – and definitely don’t grab them while they are sleeping so they are not taken by surprise.

13. Social preferences

Do hamsters get lonely? Different hamster breeds and genders have contrasting social preferences. Most hamsters are solitary creatures who only congregate to mate, fight, or raise pups. Some dwarf hamsters may live together – providing there is enough room – but males will nearly always fight due to their territorial instinct. This is a pet so sure of itself that it doesn’t need like-minded company.

14. Noise levels

Hamsters have poor eyesight but excellent hearing – they can even detect ultrasonic sounds. This also means that loud noises can stress them. It’s best to keep them in the quietest area of the house and consider moving their cage when you’re vacuuming or like.

15. Tunnel lovers

Due to a hamster’s burrowing and nesting instincts, they love a tunnel. In the wild, a hamster might dig as far as 2ft down and will make themselves separate little chambers for various activities, such as sleeping, eating, and going to the toilet.

They may prefer digging their own tunnel but are just as likely to pull bedding into the man-made version and make themselves a new hideout.

16. Pouch care

A hamster’s pouches are one of their defining cute features, looking like chubby little cheeks. They stretch all the way back to their shoulders and they use them much like shopping bags to carry food from its source back to its burrow. Keep an eye on the pouches as they can get impacted (wet food can prove problematic), grow abscesses or tumors, or be punctured by an overgrown tooth.

17. Scent marking

Hamsters have an intriguing mode of communication which is via their scent. More prominent in males, they have glands in various places on their bodies (cheeks, flanks, and genitals) which fulfill many roles, such as marking territory, showing they’re ready for matin,g and asserting their place in the social hierarchy.

As a hamster trots around, it releases pheromones which alert other hamsters to its presence as well as help it navigate its own trail. Obviously, this is more useful in the wild, but pet hamsters will still scent mark their territory in their cages – or even on their beloved owners to claim what is theirs!

18. Creatures of the night

Hamsters are nocturnal creatures, which means they are more active at nighttime – and they may be very noisy as they scurry around on their wheels, generally expending plenty of energy. In common with many other prey animals, darkness gives them cover so that they can gather food and make nests without such a risk of being spotted by predators.

Some sources point to hamsters being crepuscular, as they can show some activity at dawn and dusk, but their main busy period is during the night. For this reason, they can be a little disappointing for very small children, as their waking hours do not coincide!

19. Monitor behavior

Hamsters can appear quite self-sufficient: exercising vigorously, gnawing on wood to keep their teeth in good shape, and even collecting food to take back to their lair. However, they benefit from interaction – not least because you’ll learn what is normal for them. You should check them on a daily basis, and at least once a week make a closer inspection of their health. Carefully examine their eyes, fur, skin, tail, nails, and teeth to see that all is healthy.

By picking them up regularly, they will be accustomed to the inspection and will tolerate it well, enabling you to pick up any concerns before they become serious.

20. Provide variety

Hamsters are naturally busy animals when they are awake, so it’s good to provide them with plenty of toys, things to chew on places to hide and burrow. Move the toys and food around regularly so that you mimic the idea of foraging and provide variety in their daily lives.

21. Sand bath

Hamsters do not need bathing in water – in fact you shouldn’t wash them unless specifically instructed by your vet for a particular purpose. However, they do like to bathe – in sand! If you put a tray of hamster-friendly sand (avoid chinchilla dust) in the cage, most hamsters will use it to roll around in. This exfoliates the skin and blots the excess oils, and is a normal daily habit. Be aware that some hamsters (especially the Syrians) might use the sand bath as both a washing and a lavatory facility, so make sure you keep it clean.

22. Pellets or mix

Pellet food is generally recommended as being a better overall diet for hamsters as everything they need is packaged up together. With a mix, they have a tendency to pick out the bits they love (don’t we all?) and therefore might end up being deficient in some nutrients. If you have a hamster that finds pellets boring, one way to get around this is to supplement the pellets with titbits of food they find more interesting, such as nuts, seeds, and insects.

23. Avoid high platforms

Platforms are a great addition to a hamster cage as they increase the surface area for them to take exercise, and boost their sense of exploration. However, be aware that a hamster’s eyesight is poor, so high platforms can be dangerous if they inadvertently fall off. About 5in (15cm) should be the maximum.

And remember hamsters prefer being below ground to above it, so make sure there are always plenty of burrowing opportunities too.

24. Respect their space

Hamsters are solitary animals by nature, but that’s not to say they do not love interacting with humans as many do. However, always be mindful of how they are handled – they may bite if they feel threatened especially if they are not accustomed to it. Remember that they are naturally nocturnal creatures and you cannot force them to be lively and fun just because you’re up and about. If they are burrowing or seeking a safe haven, leave them to their own personal space.

Try feeding them from your hand initially so they get used to your smell and that good things come from you, and go at the hamster’s pace.

25. Check teeth

Hamsters’ teeth never stop growing, so check them regularly. If their teeth become overgrown they can cause pain, or cut into parts of their mouth or pouches. If this happens, they may stop eating. At any sign of dental problems take them to a vet, who can file them down.

And always provide gnawing toys for your hamster to wear down his own teeth, preventing the problem from happening in the first place.

26. Wet tail

“Wet tail” is a common illness in hamsters, particularly young ones. It is highly contagious and causes diarrhea, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

Hamsters have very short, stubby tails, and the name of this illness more accurately refers to the whole area under the tail and around the anus, which will show evidence of watery stools.

It can be fatal so if you suspect your hamster is suffering, head straight to the vet as they need urgent antibiotic treatment.

27. Furry stressballs

Hamsters are highly susceptible to stress, which can manifest itself in several ways. They may lose patches of fur, bite the cage rails, squeak uncharacteristically, or even show unexpected aggression. Make sure their environment is calm, clean, and quiet. Move their cage only when necessary, don’t wear unfamiliar scents around them, limit loud activities to a minimum, and make sure they have plenty of toys and activities to keep them busy in their home.

Familiarize yourself with what is normal for your hamster and be aware of the signs of a stressed hamster to help your tiny friend.

28. Quiet retreat

Hamsters need a cozy den to sleep in. They are likely to pull bedding in to make it soft and warm, so make sure it’s sufficiently big that they can move around and add some bedding.

It doesn’t have to be a state-of-the-art home – most hamsters are happy with a cardboard box, as long as it provides shelter (with a roof) and security. Bear in mind with homemade shelters such as cardboard, they may well chew the walls. But isn’t that part of the fun?

29. Time to tame

Take your time taming your hamster. They don’t arrive fully tamed! They need to get used to you, how you smell, and being handled. Start off by feeding them little titbits and seeing if they will take them from your hand – this is a great sign. When you first pick them up, it’s often a good idea to do so out of the cage, because they are likely to view that as their territory.

You can have a box in the cage which you can remove when the hamster is in it and then he is more likely to be receptive to being handled from there rather than in his den.

30. Hamster houdinis

There are dozens of stories of pet hamsters escaping their enclosure, living wild in the bedroom or utility room only to be found, safe and well, weeks or even months later. Hamsters are brilliant escape artists. If they can find a little nook or cranny through which to escape, they will do so and set off on an adventure. Make sure you handle them in an enclosed area, and don’t let them run off loose as they can get into the tiniest cracks in skirting boards and you’ll struggle to retrieve them.

31. Prey animals

The snag with being a prey animal is two-fold. First of all, they are fair game for the resident dogs and cats, so always keep the hamster separate and not in any place where a predator might be able to stress them out – or worse still, chase him.

Secondly, as a prey animal, they are adept at hiding illnesses and weakness often until it’s too late. So, be vigilant at monitoring their behavior, condition, and appetite, and consult your vet if you have any concerns.

32. Hibernation confusion

You may well ask “Do hamsters hibernate?” – especially if they seem to be spending more time asleep than usual. While hamsters do not hibernate as squirrels and hedgehogs do, they may enter a sleepy, inactive state – particularly if they get too cold or food is limited – as a way of saving energy. So while it is similar to the concept of hibernation, it typically lasts only a few hours or days at most and is known as a torpor. If this happens, increase the ambient temperature and offer food. If you have any concerns, consult a vet.

From keeping a watchful eye over their ever-growing teeth to topping up their hutches with hay, hay, and more hay — there are some things only rabbit owners can relate to.

Whether you’ve got an indoor rabbit or an outdoor bunny, rabbits are known for being brilliant pets for small homes. That said, they might be smaller than a dog or cat in size, but these energetic creatures still need lots of love, care, and attention.

Like all pets, good rabbit care is important to their health and happiness. But if you're a proud pet parent of a rabbit, you'll know this already. For more things, only rabbit owners can relate to, keep scrolling.

32 things only rabbit owners can relate to

1. They eat their droppings

You might be shocked by this and left wondering do rabbits eat their poop, but most rabbit owners won’t be! Rabbits produce two types of feces: hard fecal pellets which are the waste products and softer ones, which are called caecotrophs.

The latter are jam-packed with nutrients. Most rabbits tend to eat these directly from their rectum so you'll never normally spot them on the ground.

2. Rabbits like having a LOT of space

Whether you have an indoor rabbit or an outdoor rabbit, every rabbit owner will know how much space these friendly balls of fur like to take up. That’s because rabbits need enough space so they can go about their everyday behavior, like binkying, digging, chewing, and thumping — and the best rabbit runs can ensure that this is the case.

But how much room is enough? Well, according to The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund, a pair of rabbits need at least 3m x 2m with a height of 1m at all times.

3. Their teeth always look great (if well looked after)

If you’ve ever wondered why a rabbit’s teeth always look brand new, it’s probably because they are (sort of!). A rabbit’s teeth never stop growing as, unlike humans and cats and dogs, a bunny’s teeth are ‘open rooted’ which means they will continue to grow their whole life.

It’s believed their incisors (front teeth) grow at around 2-3 mm per week, while their molars (back teeth) grow around 2-3mm every four weeks.

4. Carrots aren’t great for rabbits

Despite what most cartoon characters will have you believe, the best food for rabbits isn’t carrots! High in sugar, a very (very) small piece of this orange veg can be fed to rabbits as a super occasional treat, but carrots shouldn’t be a staple of their diet.

Along with leading to weight gain, carrots can upset a rabbit's digestive system. Instead, all rabbit owners know it’s worth investing in the best hay for rabbits as it forms the foundation of a healthy diet.

5. They eat tons of hay

Talking of hay, this roughage, along with grass, makes up around 85-90% of a rabbit's diet. Along with being rich in fiber, hay and grass help rabbits grind down their teeth which, as we’ve just highlighted, are continuously growing.

6. They are strict herbivores

Of course with all this hay and grass making up most of their diet, it will come as no surprise to owners to hear that rabbits are strict herbivores.

This means they won’t eat any kind of meat at all, just plants. But they can eat a wide variety of greenery. For example, one surprising thing rabbits eat includes mint, dandelions, apples, cucumber, and even parsley!

7. Rabbits are always eating

Of course, all this constant chewing action means rabbits spend anywhere between 6-8 hours a day eating. But as we mentioned, not only does this help keep your rabbit happy and healthy, but it will also prevent boredom and stop rabbits from chewing things they should be.

8. Rabbits like to hide

Most owners might spend a huge chunk of their time wondering where their rabbit is. In the wild, rabbits live in groups in underground burrows known as warrens which have multiple entrances and exits. Therefore, domestic rabbits will tend to reflect this natural instinct to hide, as they are prey animals.

9. Their eyesight is impeccable

Due to the fact they are prey species, rabbits have their eyes on the side of their head. This location of their eyes gives them nearly 360-degree field of vision – meaning they can spot signs of danger from nearly every angle.

10. They like leaving their mark by rubbing their chin

A rabbit’s scent gland is located under the chin of both male and female rabbits, and they will tend to rub along items they wish to claim as their own.

This leaves a scent that only other rabbits can smell. Most owners would have spotted their fur friend doing this on chairs, bowls, beds, and litter trays. But don't panic! It won't mark or damage your furniture. It just lets another rabbit know that another bunny has been here.

11. Rabbits will throw their toys

Most rabbit owners will have spotted their fur friend literally throwing their toys out of their hutch, which can be funny and fascinating to watch in equal measure.

The good news is that this is just part of what they do. So keeping a stash of the best rabbit toys in their living area will come in handy.

12. Rabbits are crepuscular

While most rabbit owners are catching up on some sleep, their fur family is alive and thumping! Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they are active during dawn and dusk and are less active during daylight and nighttime hours.

Therefore, having a rabbit hutch isn’t just key to making sure they are safe, but the top-rated options are big enough so they can exhibit normal behavior patterns – like chewing, grazing, and foraging – no matter whether it’s morning, noon, or night.

13. Rabbits are prolific breeders

If you have a non-neutered male and female rabbit in a hutch together, two won’t stay two for long. Unlike humans, rabbits are only pregnant for around a month and they can often have litters of more than five babies each time.

They can also become pregnant straight after giving birth to a litter so things can get crowded quickly. But, as we said, most bunny parents would have already figured that out!

14. Rabbits binky

That’s if they are happy! Referred to as ‘binkying’ or ‘bunny binkies’, most owners will have spotted their fur friend running and doing a 180-degree turn in the air.

This totally natural behavior is playful and is believed to show that the bunny feels happy and safe. Some say it can also be a ‘practice run’, in case they need to escape from a predator.

15. They move their ears a lot

A rabbit’s ears are a thing of wonder. Not only are they super cute and soft, but they are constantly on the move because, as prey animals, they are able to pick up sounds from far, far away, and from different directions all at the same time.

16. Rabbits are intelligent creatures

Just like dogs, these little furry Einsteins can be clicker trained and they can also understand commands like ‘come’, ‘stay’, and ‘touch.

Just remember that training takes lots of patience and time – but it's worth it. In fact, bunnies see training as a type of game for rabbits and it can help you both bond along with boosting their welfare and health.

17. Rabbits like company

Any bunny parent will know how rabbits thrive when they’re in the company of their own. In the wild, rabbits live in large groups. So it’s no wonder why they are an incredibly social species. Just remember: opposite-sex rabbits will multiply (and quickly). So the best pairing tends to be a neutered female and a neutered male.

18. Rabbits like to make lots of noises

If you share your home with a rabbit, you'll know these furry friends don’t ‘chat’ in the usual way. For example, rabbits can purr, by softly grinding their teeth, they can growl and grunt in an attempt to defend themselves or their territory and they’ll thump to warn other rabbits of potential danger.

When they're annoyed at something they can even hum, which sounds like a bee.

19. Rabbits aren’t rodents

Most people will refer to rabbits as rodents. But we bun parents know this isn’t the case! Instead, rabbits are technically lagomorphs, as the defining feature is the presence of two pairs of incisor teeth in the upper jaw.

20. Not all rabbits like to be held

Rabbits are often depicted as being cute and cuddly creatures – and while they can be, not all bunnies love to be pictured up and cuddled. This stems from their wild roots, where rabbits are only really 'held' when they have been preyed on by a predator.

Therefore, you’ll have to earn your rabbit’s trust and respect and owners will know to only pick up their rabbit if it’s grooming time or when completing a health check.

21. Rabbits live for a long time

Wondering how long rabbits live? As long as you look after your fur friend, rabbits can live happily in your company for anywhere between eight to 12 years.

But things like investing in the best pet insurance and giving them the right care can help too.

22. Rabbits can be destructive

They might be cute and look cuddly, but don’t be fooled! Rabbits are also very fond of chewing and digging. And they will tend to exhibit this behavior if they’re not physically or mentally stimulated.

Therefore, it’s worth taking note of all the things to consider before getting a rabbit, like the best rabbit toys. But you could always engage in some activities for rabbits too to keep their mind and body active.

23. Rabbits are bigger than you think

Often depicted as small, cuddly creatures, most owners will know rabbits don’t always stay that size.

With the many breeds of rabbits available, from the silky angora ball of fur to the wild-looking Belgian hare, rabbits can grow up to 4ft long!

24. Rabbits need lots of exercise

When it comes to keeping your rabbits healthy, any rabbit pet parent understands that the key is to ensure they are well-exercised. Of course, the rabbit runs can help with this. So can setting time aside to complete activities with your rabbit, like exploring, playing, and foraging.

25. They have delicate digestive systems

As we touched on, rabbits can’t just eat anything. So there are some dos and don’ts of feeding rabbits correctly, like not offering up lots of carrots or fruit, avoiding muesli mixes and never feeding your precious pet dairy or meat products.

Instead, bunny parents only feed their pet pal the best rabbit foods that will ensure they get all their vitamins and more.

26. Rabbits are clean pets

Most bunny owners are already clued up on house-training a rabbit. But if you're considering adopting a rabbit you might not know that these clever creatures can be litter box trained.

With a little bit of time, consistency, and patience, it’s entirely possible to teach your rabbit the basics of litter box training. As long as you have the right equipment, like the best rabbit litter boxes and some of the best rabbit litter, it's actually pretty easy to get started.

27. Their hearing is incredible

It's not just their eyes that are second to none. Rabbits also have incredible hearing.

Along with being able to move their ears up to 270 degrees, the International Fund for Animal Welfare, says wild rabbits have a very wide hearing range that spans from 360 Hz to around 42,000 Hz. This means they can hear higher frequencies than humans.

28. Rabbits have something in common with kittens

And by that we mean baby rabbits are also called kittens or kits, like their furry cat counterparts. Plus, rabbits also purr when they are happy (which is hopefully often) and they do so by chattering their teeth together.

29. Rabbits and guinea pigs aren’t the best of friends

Despite what you might have heard, most bunny owners will know guinea pigs and rabbits aren’t always the best of pals. In times gone by, these furry friends used to be sold together, but it’s now thought that they do better when living apart. Not only do they have different diets, they also communicate differently.

30. Rabbits can’t vomit

Bunny owners wouldn’t have seen their fur friend vomit because it’s physically impossible for them to do so. Therefore, it’s of high importance to make sure your rabbit eats the correct diet and doesn’t ingest something they are allergic to.

31. Rabbits jump high

Higher than you might think – and you’ll know this if you’ve got one who likes to explore! According to The Guinness World Records, the highest bunny jump currently stands at 3ft.

But there are some reports that a rabbit has been seen to jump over 4ft high – which is no mean feat considering the average height of an adult rabbit stands at just 6 inches.

32. Rabbits are very, very fast

If you’ve got a rabbit run you’ve probably spotted your pet zooming around it at a very fast pace. That’s because the average domestic rabbit can run up to 25mph.

And when it comes to jumping, they're pretty quick too. Another rabbit has made it into the Guinness Book of Records with Penelope taking just 7.16 seconds to jump over 10 obstacles.

Love learning about rabbits? Here are some more interesting rabbit facts

From their ability to change color to the fact that they can pretty much sleep in any position, there is no shortage of interesting facts about bearded dragons.

These reptiles, more informally known as beardies, are one of the most fascinating creatures to be kept as pets – and we don't say this lightly. For starters, they are known (and loved) for having anthropomorphic body language, which helps them communicate to you and other reptiles how they are feeling. They're also known for puffing up their beard as a means of communication, too.

One fact you might not know is that with the best bearded dragon care, these reptiles tend to live longer in domestic settings than they do in the wild. But that's only if you tick off their very specific care requirements, like feeding them a varied diet and keeping their vivarium at the right temperature.

To discover some more interesting facts about these captivating reptiles, keep reading.

32 facts about bearded dragons

1. Bearded dragons hail from Australia

Bearded dragons originate from Australia, so if you are thinking of adopting one then you’ll need to ensure you have everything (and more) your beardie will require to thrive in a different climate.

For example, you’ll need to give them the right habitat to survive, so everything from the right humidity levels to the temperature and lighting to enough water – these are all necessary factors to take into consideration before welcoming one into your home.

2. There are eight types of bearded dragons

They include the Central Bearded Dragon, Eastern Bearded Dragon, Western Bearded Dragon, Nullarbor Bearded Dragon, Rankin’s Dragon or Lawson’s Dragon, Small-scaled Bearded Dragon, Abrolhos Dwarf Bearded Dragon, and Mitchell’s Bearded Dragon. Experts say all domesticated dragons have been bred from these eight types of bearded dragons.

3. There is one type that makes the best pet

While there might be eight different types of beardies, there is one type of dragon that makes for the best pet: and that's those bred from the Central and the Western (Pogona minor), and the Eastern bearded dragon (Pogona barbata). That’s because these types of dragons have similar needs.

4. Other types are best suited to more experienced owners

While other breeds of bearded dragons can make great pets, they are best suited to those who have had a reptile before.

It's also best to avoid bearded dragons that are advertised as ‘pygmy’ as these are not a recognized morph type.

5. Beardies are friendly

With their scaly skin and their rough beards, bearded dragons might not look like the friendliest of reptiles. But this couldn’t be further from the truth. Beardies are actually quite friendly, which is why they’ve been kept as pets in the US for more than 30 years.

They can also form strong attachments to their humans – so it’s no wonder they have grown in popularity.

6. Bearded dragons can eat dandelions

Wondering what do bearded dragons eat? Well, they might hail from Australia, but they are partial to something simple like dandelion greens. Just remember if you are foraging for your beardie, you’ll need to wash plants thoroughly.

7. Bearded dragons can live for up to 12 years

Unsure of how long bearded dragons live? If well looked after and properly cared for, bearded dragons tend to have an average lifespan of eight to 12 years. Though some breeds may live less while others may live longer.

8. They can communicate with their head

If you’ve studied a bearded dragon before you might have spotted their rather interesting anthropomorphic body language that involves them arm waving and head bobbing.

It’s believed these human-like behaviors help beardies to communicate. For example, these characteristics can help them signal interest in mating, display dominance, or show another beardie who is boss. Told you they are fascinating!

9. They can run pretty fast

Legend has it that bearded dragons can run up to 9mph, however, domesticated beardies will barely trot this fast. Instead, you’re much more likely to spot your bearded dragon living a very relaxed and sedentary lifestyle.

10. They can change color

Another character trait they are well known for? Similar to chameleons, which are another type of reptile you can keep as a pet, bearded dragons can change colors.

However, what makes the bearded dragon stand out is that it can isolate what areas it decides to change color. A beardie might change color in the neck region due to social interactions where changes to the back area could be linked to temperature regulation.

11. They need lots of enrichment

Along with having the right temperature requirements and proper habitat, bearded dragons need lots of enrichment to ensure their health is kept in tip-top condition.

But you won’t have to spend a fortune to ensure they are kept amused. For example, you could take your beardie for a walk, a swim, or let your bearded dragon watch TV with you.

It’s also a wise idea to buy some of the best bearded dragon toys to keep them entertained when you can’t be there.

12. Bearded dragons can climb trees

Bearded dragons might spend a huge proportion of their time on the ground, but they are expert tree climbers and will tend to do so when they spot food or if they’re hiding from a predator.

Beardies might also seek out higher heights when they are in search of some sun, to get their all-important hit of vitamin D.

13. You can tell how they are feeling by their chin

A bearded dragon’s all-important beard is another way that these fascinating creatures communicate.

The reptiles can puff out their beard or change the color of it and this could indicate various things, like feeling threatened, stressed, or aroused.

14. Bearded dragons are illegal in Hawaii

It's true! If you’re thinking of getting a beardie but you live in Hawaii – think again!

Bearded dragons are prohibited in Hawaii as they are considered to be an ‘invasive species’ that could disrupt the state's ecosystem.

15. They’re tiny when born

When first born these little hatchlings are around three inches long and weigh only a few grams. However, according to the RSPCA when fully grown, bearded dragons can grow to around 45cm, so they’ll need enough space to roam around.

Therefore a vivarium that’s 120cm long x 60cm high x 60 cm wide is the minimum size required.

16. They can sleep in all types of positions

This includes standing up! Whether it’s propped up against a tree trunk, or leaning against the glass wall of their vivarium, these fascinating creatures aren’t precious about where they catch some ZZZs.

17. They like to be left alone

Bearded dragons tend to exist in solitude in the wild and when they are adopted into captivity, this is no different.

So as long as you are on top of their care, you've invested in the right food, and are providing light and heat, they’ll love spending time in their vivarium – alone!

18. Their waste is different

Another bizarre fact about bearded dragons? While humans and most other animals might urinate, a bearded dragon passes ‘powder’ called ‘urate’, which is white in color and has a chalky paste texture.

These clever creatures do this as a way to retain water, which was needed if they were living in the very hot Australian outback.

19. They can brumate

You might not have heard of this before. But according to the RSPCA, bearded dragons will tend to eat less, and generally slow down during the cooler months of the year. Some people describe this as a type of hibernation, but for lizards, this behavior is called brumation.

20. They love the warmth

Keeping your reptile warm is a key part of bearded dragon care. Seeing as bearded dragons typically hail from sunny Australia, your beardie, which is cold-blooded, will need warm temperatures to thrive.

To help them raise their body temperatures they rely on external heat sources like the best reptile heating pads.

21. They aren’t picky eaters

Beardies are partial to a varied diet. Seeing as they are technically omnivores, these reptiles can eat a range of fruits, vegetables, greens, and insects.

They are particularly partial to brown crickets as bearded dragons find them easy to catch and digest. While mealworms, cockroaches or wax worms can be given as a treat every now and then.

22. They are territorial

One common trait of a bearded dragon is that they are known for being territorial. Whether they are competing for food, defending their ground against another male, or throwing their hat into the ring for a female, beardies can show aggression when they feel like another bearded dragon is encroaching on their space.

23. Males like to impress females

To get the attention of a female bearded dragon and impress her as a potential mate, a male will start to put on a 'show'. They do this by waving their arms, bobbing their head, ruffling their beard, and pounding their feet on the ground.

24. They can change sex

Another beguiling fact about bearded dragons? If there are high incubation temperatures when the embryo is being developed, a genetically male bearded dragon can be developed into a female beardie.

25. They have no discs

Bearded dragons have a spine, but unlike humans, they don’t have any vertebral discs. These all-important discs provide support, shock absorption, and mobility so without them, this lack of protection means beardies can damage their spines more easily.

26. They have three eyes

We're sure you would have spotted a bearded dragon’s two eyes on the side of its head. But you probably would have missed your beardies' third eye, which is hidden on the back of their head.

This third eye helps a bearded dragon detect changes in light, which can help keep them safe if a predator is approaching.

27. They are venomous

Did you know that bearded dragons are venomous? These types of reptiles produce the toxin crotamine in their mouth glands, which is the same substance that was previously known only from rattlesnake venom. But before you panic, you'll be pleased to know that this poison isn't potent enough to harm humans.

28. They shouldn’t be housed together

As we mentioned, bearded dragons are solitary scale friends. Housing more than two together results in one dragon taking the dominant role, eating the food, water and other necessary vivarium features like the heating pads, which bearded dragons need to survive.

In some cases, males may even fight. Therefore, if you intend to keep more than one beardie, keeping them in separate enclosures is best.

29. They live longer in captivity than in the wild

In the US, bearded dragons are bred in captivity because vets have found that with the right TLC, these domesticated creatures can live longer than their counterparts in the wild.

Domestic beardies can live around eight to 10 years, or longer, while the typical lifespan for a wild reptile of this kind is anywhere between four to eight years because of lack of consistent food, water, and veterinary care.

30. They smell with their tongue

It comes as no surprise to hear that humans capture small tiny particles through their nose that their brain interprets as odor.

But bearded dragons do this via their tongue. If you’ve adopted a beardie you probably would have spotted them poking out their tongue to capture scent particles in the air. That’s because they have a 'Jacobson's organ' on the roof of their mouth allowing them to detect chemical signals.

31. They have a three-chambered heart

Unlike our friends in the fish world who have a two-chambered heart, or mammals, like dogs, cats, or humans who have a four-chambered heart – bearded dragons are reptiles and therefore have a three-chambered heart.

32. They have interesting behavior

If there’s one reptile that’s simply fascinating, it’s the beloved bearded dragon. From its anthropomorphic body language, like head bobbing or waving to beardies ‘glass surfing’ i.e. standing up on their hind legs with their paws on the side of the vivarium – bearded dragons really are a one-of-a-kind animal and, if you adopt one, the fascination with your scaly friend will never end.

Wondering how long can bearded dragons go without heat? We asked a vet and here is what they had to say.

From how much hay they need (spoiler alert: it’s a lot) to the fact they can be litter-trained, we’ve compiled a list of all the things your rabbit would tell you if they could talk.

Rabbits are pretty magical creatures. So much so, while they can’t actually ‘talk’ in human language, they can tell you most of their needs, wants, and desires through their own rabbit body language. For example, have you ever witnessed a bunny purr? Or spotted a rabbit perform a binky? These are all means of communication for rabbits. And when it comes to good bunny care, it’s understanding communication like this that can help you keep them healthy and happy.

To help make sense of what your bunny would say if your fur friend could talk, we’ve pulled together a list. So hop to it!

32 things your rabbit would tell you if they could talk

1. Feed me!

Wondering how long can rabbits go without food? Well, if you’ve studied rabbits or share your home with one, you’ll know that they are pretty much always grazing.

These fur friends need unlimited access to good-quality grass and the best hay for rabbits, so they should never be left without food.

2. I actually can’t eat loads of carrots

Despite what a certain cartoon character will have you believe, rabbits can’t actually eat bundles of carrots. Though they are a type of veg (and vegetables are good for us, right?) carrots contain a lot of natural sugar.

All this sugar can upset a rabbit's sensitive stomach unlike hay or leafy greens, which can be fed in addition to the best foods for rabbits.

3. I’m civilized and can be trained to use a litter box

Rabbits have something in common with cats: these clever creatures can be trained to use a litter box. When it comes to learning how to litter box train a rabbit, you’ll have to wait until your bunny has been neutered as they are unlikely to accept litter training before this.

But to try and get ahead, you could start placing one of the best rabbit litter boxes in their hutch so they become accustomed to them.

4. I’ll keep myself clean, thank you very much

Talking of cleanliness, rabbits are pretty clean creatures. Not only will these furballs place their litter in the tray once they've mastered the art of doing so, but they will also spend a lot of time cleaning up after themselves by grooming their fur.

That said, a large part of keeping your rabbit healthy will also involve you grooming them daily with one of the best rabbit brushes.

5. Pleaseeee get me a friend

Questioning whether or not rabbits can live alone? Well, we have the answer! Rabbits don’t do well alone. Instead, they thrive in the company of other rabbits so it’s important to consider this if you are planning on adopting one, as you’ll need to make sure you have space for two.

6. I can hear what you’re saying

While lop-eared rabbits might not necessarily have the best hearing, most other rabbit breeds will be able to hear far and wide. In fact, according to the International Fund for Animal Welfare, wild rabbits' hearing spans from 360 Hz to around 42,000 Hz, so they can hear higher frequencies than humans.

7. And I can see what you’re doing

Not only is their hearing pretty incredible, but their eyesight is just as good. Due to the fact they are prey animals, they have a 360-degree field of vision meaning they can spot signs of danger from nearly every angle.

The only ‘blind’ spot they have is directly in front of their nose. But they’ll use their whiskers and noses to help compensate for this.

8. This is my house and I WILL leave scent markers

Rabbits don't just have similar characteristics to cats – they are also like dogs too! That’s because rabbits mark their territory – just in a slightly different way to pooches.

Rabbits have a scent gland under their chin which they rub along items they wish to claim as their own. This leaves a scent that other rabbits can smell but is odorless to humans and won’t damage your belongings.

9. Can talk, will talk

Rabbits are brilliant communicators. Not only do they use verbal sounds (like purring) which make up a small part of their rabbit noises, but they’ll also nudge, dig ,and use their facial expressions to help communicate with their other hutch companions too.

10. I need lots of exercise – so let me stretch my legs!

There’s no such thing as too much exercise when it comes to rabbits. These energetic creatures will love nothing more than running young, wild, and free. So it’s worth having one of the best outdoor rabbit hutches and one of the best rabbit runs that is big enough so they can run to their heart’s content.

11. I’m in it for the long haul

How long do rabbits live? Good question. If well cared for and shown lots of TLC, a healthy rabbit can live anywhere between eight to 12 years. So, whether you’ve just welcomed a new floppy-eared friend into your family or you’re considering adopting, it’s important to discover the top tips for caring for rabbits before you jump right in.

12. I’m not angry, I just like throwing my toys

This is quite comical to watch, but it’s all part of a rabbit’s natural ‘play’ behavior. This mannerism of them throwing their toys can often signify they are having fun and want to engage in more playtime.

But it can also be a way to get your attention. Therefore, it's worth keeping a watchful eye over your fur friend and making sure they have enough of the best rabbit toys to keep them entertained.

13. I binky when I’m happy

Another brilliant and totally normal behavior rabbits exhibit? Rabbits tend to ‘binky’ when they are happy. Bunny binkies are when rabbits leap into the air, flick their back legs and head and they perform a 180-degree turn mid-air.

This charming mannerism is believed to take place when a rabbit is relaxed, feels safe, or just wants to let off some steam. It’s also thought to be practiced in case they should ever need to escape from a predator.

14. Unlike you, I’m most active at dawn and dusk

Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they are most active during dawn and dusk and less active during the day. So, while humans tend to be most active during the day, your fur friend will tend to come alive at night.

15. I eat my droppings – don’t judge me, it’s healthy

After reading this, you’re probably thinking: do rabbits really eat their poop? Rabbits produce around 300 round fecal poops, which is why it’s important to have a rabbit litter box and know how to clean a rabbit cage.

But while they won’t digest this type of excrement, they are partial to the soft and sticky pellets known as caecotrophs, which are rich in nutrients and essential vitamins and minerals.

16. I'll flop when I feel relaxed

Ever spotted your fur friend turn its head a few times and 'fall' onto its side? This is known as a 'bunny flop' and, in our opinion, it's one of the cutest things your rabbit will do.

It's believed rabbits 'flop' when they are happy, relaxed, and feel safe. So essentially, it's just another way of communicating with you—so if you spot them flop each week, you're doing a great job at being their pet parent!

17. I am NOT a rodent

These balls of fur are often mistaken for rodents. But this is incorrect. Instead, rabbits are lagomorphs because they have the presence of two pairs of incisor teeth in the upper jaw. This is the defining feature.

18. I can get sick, but I can’t vomit

It’s true. They have a strong cardiac sphincter (muscle) that sits at the top of the stomach, preventing them from doing so. This means if your rabbit eats something dangerous, or a foreign object, they are unable to bring it back up. So it's well worth learning what to feed a rabbit and what not to!

19. This hay isn’t fresh enough

Rabbits love hay. But not just any hay. They like hay that is dry, clean, and packed full of fiber and protein, such as timothy or meadow hay, which is known for being fresh and pleasant smelling.

Munching on this hay will help to keep their digestive system in good order and their forever-growing teeth working, too.

20. Let me explore!

'Exploring' is a rabbit’s middle name. So give them lots of enticing rabbit-friendly features in their enclosure to investigate.

This can be tunnels, places to hide, toys, or different plants to try chewing on. Some rabbits might even like walking while using the best rabbit harnesses which allows them to safely explore their surroundings under your supervision.

21. I love to play

Another pastime your little ball of fur will spend hours doing? Playing. To help keep them busy and entertained you could try pairing two of their favorite things together – chewing and toys – by introducing a chew toy. These toys can also help rabbits wear their teeth down, as they grow continuously.

22. I don't mean to chew all your furniture, I'm just bored

Talking of chewing, if your rabbit has ever nibbled a corner of your sofa, taken a bite out of cables or tried to pull down your wallpaper (yes, really!), then it's because your rabbit is bored or, in some cases, stressed.

While rabbits are naturally curious furballs, as they are natural diggers and chewers, they only tend to start chewing things they shouldn't be when boredom strikes. To stop them from doing so, make sure they have enough foraging opportunities and provide them with plenty of puzzles and toys.

23. You gave me a fright!

Being prey animals, rabbits have strong senses. As we mentioned their hearing is first class and while this helps to keep them safe from predators, it can mean they will startle easily.

Therefore, if you’re housing your rabbits indoors, place their hutch somewhere quiet where they will feel safe. If you’re placing your rabbits outside, find a quiet spot where they will feel comfortable.

24. Being a bunny is thirsty work!

Wondering what rabbits need in their cage? Along with bundles (and bundles) of hay, rabbits also need access to lots of fresh water. The general train of thought is that rabbits should be drinking 50–150 ml of water per kg of body weight. So be sure to fill and refill their bowls daily.

25. I’m intelligent, you know

Dogs are often hailed as being the most intelligent pets humans share their home with. However, we’re making a case for rabbits. That's because these hoppy-go-lucky pets can groom themselves, they can be litter trained and they can stick to routines. They can also communicate well and their memory is impeccable. Need we say more?

26. I love it when you spend time with me

Rabbits don’t do well alone. So much so, that they’ll need another hutch companion. They also love spending time with their humans and can thrive once a bond is well established.

Without daily human interaction, domesticated rabbits can become lonely and depressed. So if you are thinking about adopting, make sure you set some time aside each day to show your fur friend some TLC.

27. My ears don’t just look cute

A rabbit's ears can also be used for thermoregulation. Due to their larger-than-average size, a rabbit’s ears contain a lot of blood vessels that help them retain and release heat. These blood vessels swell when your fur friend is hot and contract when they are cool. Pretty great, huh?

28. Catch me if you can!

Did you know, most rabbits can reach speeds of around 25–35 miles per hour? Of course, the top speed will depend on the size, type, and individual fitness level of the rabbit. But this is still pretty fast, considering the average running speed of humans is around six miles per hour.

29. I don’t always want loads of cuddles

They’re often depicted as being cute and cuddly – and while they might look it, this isn’t always the case. While some rabbits will love nothing more than cuddling up to their owners, one fact about rabbits that might surprise you is that most prefer to have four feet placed firmly on the ground.

30. My teeth will never stop growing – fact!

Another fun fact about rabbits? Their ‘open-rooted’ teeth will never stop growing. But thanks to their high-fiber diet, which is packed with staples like hay, which requires a lot of chewing, this will help to keep their teeth worn down naturally and prevent them from overgrowing.

31. Even if I make a fuss, I do appreciate you taking me to my check ups

When it comes to caring for a house rabbit or outdoor rabbit, they will need annual veterinary trips to ensure they are in good health.

For example, vaccinations are advised for even indoor bunnies so routine annual wellness visits can help to monitor your rabbit’s overall health, assess the need for dental care, and monitor your rabbit’s diet and general care.

32. I’m a strict vegetarian

If you’re wondering if rabbits are herbivores or omnivores, wonder no more. They are herbivores, therefore when it comes to the do's and don'ts of feeding rabbits correctly, they can only digest plants, like hay, grass, vegetables, and the best rabbit food, like pellets.

Do you have a longhaired rabbit? Here's everything you need to know about longhaired rabbit breeds and how to care for them.

From their forever-growing front teeth to their inflatable cheeks, there are many funny hamster facts that you (or the kids) may not have come across before.

But if you’ve got some animal lovers who are keen to find out more about what makes these wonderful hamster breeds tick, we’ve done all the digging.

Of course, from the color of their fur to their personalities, all hamsters are different – but that’s what makes them so intriguing. To help you and the kids discover more fun facts about these cute pet pals, stick right here.

Funny hamster facts

1. A hamster's whiskers help them navigate

Just like how humans use a sat nav to help them navigate, a hamster uses its whiskers to do the same.

More scientifically known as vibrissae, these clever facial additions are there to aid the detection of objects. That’s because hamsters are colorblind and unlike a beady-eyed eagle, they haven’t got picture-perfect eyesight.

Instead, a hamster has to use other means to help them explore their environment with ease, without bumping into things or relying on their poor eyesight to keep them safe.

So, according to the RSPCA, hamsters use their whiskers to do so. It's believed these clever additions can vibrate backward and forward at up to 30 ‘whisks’ per second. Known as ‘whisking’, this can help these fur friends gather information about objects in their vicinity.

2. Hamsters hoard food in their cheeks

If you’re the proud pet parent of a hamster, you’ve probably noticed that your hamster’s cheeks change in size throughout the day.

Well, not only do most hamsters have a healthy appetite, but these terrestrial and burrow-digging rodents have cheek ‘pouches’ enabling them to temporarily store food so they carry their goods back to their nesting spot.

When empty, these cheek pouches, formally called displostomes, are composed of four layers around 35–40 mm long and 4–8 mm wide. When full, they can expand up to 20mm wide.

Plus, according to The Laboratory Rabbit, Guinea Pig, Hamster, and Other Rodents journal, female hamsters can put their pouches to even better use — as they tend to place their newborns in it, if stressed.

3. Their teeth never stop growing

When it comes to humans, our noses and ears never stop getting bigger. But for rodents like hamsters, it’s their incisors (so, their upper and lower front teeth) that just keep on growing.

As we touched on, the good news is that hamsters love to eat. In fact, eating is one of the brilliant ways in which they can help keep their teeth in good working order.

Wondering what can hamster eat? Chewing on foods like hard pellets and fresh veg can help the omnivores naturally grind their teeth down. But the same goes for, whole wheat cereal or cucumbers, which are included in our guide to some of the surprising things hamster can eat.

They’ll also love getting their teeth stuck into other objects like gnawing blocks, or some of the best hamster toys, which are specifically made to help keep their nashers at a happy length and lessen the chance of developing overgrown incisors.

4. Hamsters are crepuscular

While most humans might be catching up on some ZZZs during the night and early morning, hamsters are doing the opposite.

According to the National Animal Welfare Trust, hamsters are crepuscular, which means they are most active during dawn and dusk.

Whether it’s running on their hamster wheel, burrowing in their bedding or exploring every inch of one of the best hamster cages, these fur friends come alive during the twilight hours.

To help keep them entertained, the key is to make sure there is plenty for them to do and their cage is comfortable, with a deep layer of bedding.

5. Hamsters can sleep for more than half of the day

Talking of sleep, did you know, hamsters can sleep for up to 14 hours a day? They might be small, but to help restore their batteries, some types of hamsters will spend most of the day asleep.

To make sure they can get enough sleep, it’s wise to place their cage somewhere quiet and out of the way so that these pet pals can rest undisturbed.

All this sleep can lead some hamster pet parents to wonder if hamsters hibernate?’

While these types of fur friends don’t ‘hibernate’, they can experience ‘torpor’ if they face a scarce food supply or get too cold. Torpor can last for a few hours to several days and vets say they might enter this stage to conserve energy and survive.

Now you've learned all about hamsters, why not take a look at some interesting dog facts? Or read up on all the interesting rabbit facts you'll wish you learned sooner?

Do hamsters get lonely? That's a great question. We often see hamsters living quite happily with other hamsters, but are they just as happy on their own? We spoke to vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out.

When thinking about how to bond with your hamster, you probably already know that spending quality time with them is key. We're sure that your mini furry friend loves spending time with you, but it does make you wonder how they are faring when you're away from them.

Are they sad or lonely, or are they happier having their own space in one of the best hamster cages? This feature will lay out if hamsters do, in fact, get lonely and which hamster breeds do better alone.

Do hamsters get lonely?

So, do hamsters get lonely? The ultimate answer is that there is no proof or research to show that hamsters get lonely. Dr. MacMillan says, "Hamsters don’t appear to suffer from loneliness and seem quite happy in their own company."

Hamsters are generally solitary animals. In the wild, they would get together to mate but would not necessarily stay together after that. In fact, hamsters can become quite territorial and even fight if they feel their space has been encroached on.

What kinds of hamster should be kept seperate?

Which hamster breeds should live alone? Syrian hamsters should be housed by themselves.

"Syrian hamsters need to be kept alone, regardless of their gender. In the wild, this species of hamster only usually come together to mate, so housing them together will result in aggression, fighting, and injuries," she goes on to say, "They can be extremely territorial, so from eight to 10 weeks of age, Syrian hamsters need to be separated from their littermates and housed in separate cages."

Can hamster live together?

Chinese hamsters, dwarf hamsters, winter white hamsters, Roborovski hamsters, and Cambell's dwarf hamsters are all species that can safely be kept together. If you are going to have these hamsters living together you'll want to ensure that they are of the same gender and littermates, Dr. MacMillan advises.

How big should a hamster cage be? While a cage for a hamster living alone should be no smaller than 40in x 20in x 20in, you'll want to ensure that there is much more space than that for two hamsters. They will also need plenty of resources to prevent stress and boredom. You'll want to make sure that their home is stocked with plenty of the best hamster toys to keep them busy.

Dr. MacMillan adds, "You will also need to keep a close eye on them, checking regularly for any signs of injuries. If your hamsters start fighting, then you will need to permanently separate them."

Found this helpful? Check out 32 hamster care tips and read our selection of funny hamster facts

Those who have rabbits as pets can attest to how intelligent and characterful they are. This does mean that they need a suitable amount of entertainment to avoid becoming bored or depressed – cue our activities for rabbits.

There are some things that you can do with your rabbit, such taking them for a walk, and others that you can set up for them to do themselves, such as foraging or some of the best rabbit toys. If you're not sure how to play with your rabbit, here are 32 activities for rabbits you can try to keep them happy.

32 activities to do with your rabbit

1. Harness walking

Some rabbits don't cooperate, but most can be trained to walk on one of the best rabbit harnesses. This allows them to safely explore their surroundings under your supervision and means that they can roam much further and investigate places where they might otherwise get lost.

2. Watch TV

While your rabbit probably isn't actually watching the TV, they will probably appreciate some quiet hang-out time with you. If you bring them out and put them on your lap or beside you while you watch the television, it can become a sweet activity you share.

3. Explore

One thing that rabbit owners can relate to is how much rabbits like to explore, so give them lots of enriching features in their enclosure to investigate. This can be tunnels, places to hide, toys, or different plants to try.

4. Play

Once your bunny is comfortable with you, they will probably enjoy playing. If you are careful, and gentle and read their body language, you can initiate play with your rabbit or allow them to initiate with you. You can play with toys or play hide and seek.

5. Chewing

While you might not enjoy this one as much as your pet, make sure they have lots of material (such as the best hay for rabbits) to chew. Rabbit teeth grow throughout their lives, so they need to keep chewing hard objects to keep them at a comfortable length. If they are not provided items to chew, it's likely that they will chew on things you don't want them to, such as power cables and furniture.

6. Nesting

Make sure your rabbit has lots of materials to create a nest and a suitable space for nesting in. Lots of the best bedding for rabbits, such as straw, sawdust, hay, or shredded paper will allow your bunny to express their natural instinct to build nests. Just make sure you clean them out regularly and replace them with clean, fresh bedding.

7. Foraging

Rabbits are natural foragers, and you can satisfy this instinct by giving them things to forage. Hiding edible flowers or small pieces of apple or berries in some hay will encourage your rabbit to forage for the high-value items.

8. Digging

Female rabbits are more likely to dig than males, building huge warren structures when left unchecked. Boys dig too, but for different reasons. These warrens serve as a safe and cozy place to raise their families.

While you don't want your rabbit digging their way out of a secure area, setting aside some space for them to construct their burrows will keep them satisfied.

9. Handling

Rabbits that enjoy handling are likely to find it a fulfilling experience and a pleasant way to bond with their human. Respect their boundaries and make sure you give them space when they want it, and they should be happy to be handled regularly, perhaps even seeking you out for cuddles.

10. Grooming

Rabbits are very clean creatures and have a strict self-grooming routine. You can help them with this by grooming hard-to-reach areas with a soft brush (check out our guide to the best rabbit brushes) and checking their teeth and nails regularly to ensure they aren't overgrown. A bath will stress your rabbit out so this is best avoided – so here’s a guide to rabbit grooming to help you get started.

11. Socializing

Rabbits are social creatures and enjoy having a friend to live with. While some struggle with socialization, most rabbits will enjoy having a pal around to keep them company.

12. Grazing

If you have an indoor bun, make sure they have plenty of things to graze on. Unlimited access to hay is important, but if you can give them time outdoors to graze on fresh grass, this will keep them content.

13. Exercise

Exercise for rabbits may not look quite the same as it does for a dog but is still important for their well-being. Time out of their enclosure to roam, explore, and graze is important for their physical and mental wellbeing.

14. Let them roam

Rabbits are natural explorers, so letting them roam (with supervision) is good for their mental health and can help them to feel safer in their environment.

Rabbits need plenty of space – more than you might think – this guide explains how much space rabbits really need.

15. Homemade toys

You can make your rabbit toys out of edible materials to add some enrichment to their enclosure. String some low-calorie vegetables together and hand them in your bunny's enclosure, and they will be kept happy for hours.

16. Give them a tunnel

Bunnies like tunnels, which is why they tend to dig them. If you have a rabbit that lives fully indoors, this can be difficult as they might not have the space or materials to dig. In this case, you can give them cardboard tubes or hollow logs to hide in.

17. Train them to do tricks

Rabbits are very easy to train, and you can show them how to do tricks. With a suitable, high-value reward, your bunny can learn to give kisses, come when called, or give a high five. Try to do training when your rabbit is most alert.

18. Rotate their toys

Rabbits can get bored, so rotate their toys to keep things interesting for them. You don't need to buy them new toys every time, but swapping some of them around a few times a month can keep things interesting for your bunny.

19. Give them a platform

Rabbits like investigating platforms and high places, which is why you will often find them hopping up onto a sofa. Their natural instinct to scan for predators means that high places are appealing to them, and you can encourage this instinct by building them a small platform.

20. Keep their routine consistent

Rabbits feel secure within a routine, so if you feed, exercise, and handle them at the same time each day, they will feel safest. If you mix up their routine, this is likely to stress them out, so try to keep things consistent and predictable for them.

21. Don't overcrowd their space

While this isn't an activity per se, be aware that you can overcrowd rabbits with toys, tunnels, and things to chew, which can be stressful for them. Make sure they have lots of space, swap toys instead of just adding more and give them a safe place to hide if they feel overwhelmed.

22. Spend one-on-one time with each rabbit

If you have multiple rabbits, handling them individually can help reinforce your bond with them. Try to avoid separating them completely or taking one rabbit out of sight of the other, as rabbits can experience separation anxiety, particularly with their friends. Focus on petting one rabbit while you give the others an activity to do.

23. Introduce new items slowly

Rabbits are prey animals, and new things can be scary for them. With this in mind, introduce new things slowly. Don't bombard your rabbit with lots of new toys and enrichment items at once, but introduce each one gradually to allow them to adjust.

24. Give them an untreated log

Rabbits should be encouraged to chew and an untreated log is the perfect gift for them to work their teeth on. Make sure there are no chemicals, paint, varnish, or pesticides present before giving to your bunny, as these may make them sick.

25. Find edible weeds for them to eat

While this isn't an activity you'd do with your bunny, you can go for a walk on your own to find them edible plants. Dandelion greens harvested from a clean place are likely to go down very well with your rabbit.

To help you out, here’s a list of things rabbits can eat, and here’s a list of plants poisonous to rabbits.

26. Make a trail of greens

Make your rabbit a trail to follow and engage its foraging instinct. Placing some greens a few inches apart will encourage your rabbit to use its senses to find the next one on the trail, which can be fun and fulfilling for both of you.

27. Play on their level

You're probably a lot taller than your bunny and this can feel intimidating to them. If you get on the ground with them, they are more likely to feel safe and enjoy interacting with you.

28. Assault course

Rabbits in their natural environment cover all sorts of terrain, so adding a bit of variety to their environment can be enriching. Give them things to climb, hop over, or scooch under in a mini rabbit-friendly assault cause.

29. Ball games

Rabbits can be trained to play with balls and some really enjoy it. If you show your bunny how to push the ball along the ground, you may find them using their nose to nudge it along. If the ball has a bell inside, your rabbit may enjoy the noise this makes as well as the action of pushing the ball.

30. Puzzle games

You can make rabbit-friendly puzzle games that encourage their foraging instinct. Using untreated wood or cardboard, make a simple puzzle for your rabbit to solve in order to get to the food. This will provide them with mental stimulation and a tasty treat at the end of it. If you're really bored, you can build a whole maze with carboard boxes.

31. Litter training

If you have a rabbit you'll want to read up on how to litter box train a rabbit. You'll be happy to know that they are quite easy to litter train and once it's done, are unlikely to forget where the bathroom is. While this is more of a practical activity than a fun one, ensuring you reward your rabbit makes it worth it for them. They're also naturally clean animals and when neutered, prefer to go in one place.

32. Take a nap

The biggest blessing as a bunny owner is when your rabbit sees fit to fall asleep while being petted. While it isn't a very active activity, knowing that your rabbit feels safe enough to have a sleep on your lap is a high compliment.

Cute, cuddly and packed full of character, there are many reasons to get a guinea pig. Along with being incredibly gentle animals, guinea pigs are considered to be low-maintenance fur friends, which makes them great for families with children.

Welcoming a pet into your home is an exciting time. But just like dogs, guinea pigs aren’t just for Christmas. These sociable furballs, which are often referred to as cavies, require the right setup to thrive. In addition to having a safe and secure hutch filled with hay and clean bedding, these fur friends will also need some of the best guinea pig toys to keep them mentally and physically stimulated.

If you’re seriously considering adopting one (or two) of these four-pawed creatures, it’s worth checking out our tips for taking care of guinea pigs. Or, for more reasons to get a guinea pig, stick right here as we’ve compiled a list of why you’ll want to share your home with them.

32 reasons to get a guinea pig

1. They don’t need acres of space

According to the Humane Society of the United States, guinea pigs need a minimum of 7.5 square feet of space to thrive. If you've got the space, 10.5 square feet is your best bet and especially if you are keeping two guinea pigs.

2. Guinea pigs are small-to-medium sized animals

The overall size of a pet may determine whether or not your home is the right environment for them. So, if you're worried about not having enough space, guinea pigs are considered to be small to medium-sized pets.

Baby guinea pigs grow pretty rapidly. But once they reach adulthood, at around 12-15 months, they'll stop growing so they're usually between 8in and 10in long.

3. Guinea pigs are affectionate

Once you’ve formed a strong bond with your guinea pig, they’ll show their affection in many ways. Whether it’s by chirping, cuddling or giving you guinea pig kisses, like licking you. How sweet!

4. Guinea pigs are pretty clean animals

Generally speaking, guinea pigs are clean freaks and love nothing more than grooming themselves daily.

However, on the other hand, their cage can get pretty messy. Therefore, while you won’t need to bathe your cute companion, you will need to spot clean their cage daily to pick up droppings and remove and replace dirty bedding.

5. They eat some of their own poop

Heard of coprophages? This term is the name given to organisms or animals who eat their own feces. And guinea pigs are an example of this.

You might be wondering why and the answer to this question is because a guinea pig’s first round of poops (called caecotrophs) are soft and packed full of vitamins and nutrients. Rabbits eat their poop for the same reason.

6. Guinea pigs are clever

Along with being quick learners, having a sharp memory and being known for their inquisitive nature, guinea pigs are clever creatures.

This means, with a little bit of patience, you can have hours of entertainment teaching them new tricks like how to turn in circles, how to shake paws and how to push a ball around.

7. They are packed with personality

Another brilliant fact about owning a guinea pig is that each has their own personality.

Some owners find that their pets are bossy (which is pretty funny, considering they are smaller than the size of a pineapple) others find that their fur friend is excitable and a handful say that their cavy is a perfect mix of all the above.

8. Guinea pigs make a purring sound

If you’re a fan of the soothing purring noise cats make, or love a dog’s low grumble, then you’ll be pleased to know guinea pigs have a rumble sound of their own.

This low purring sound is most often heard when your cavy is happy, like when it’s being petted. But guinea pigs can make a sharp purring noise when they feel threatened. So it’s important to know the difference between the two.

9. Guinea pigs ‘popcorn’

You may have heard about bunny binkies. Well, guinea pigs have their own super endearing version of this and it’s called ‘popcorning’. This term refers to when a guinea pig jumps in the air in spontaneous bursts to show how happy they are. So if this isn’t one reason to get a guinea pig, then we don’t know what is.

10. Guinea pigs come in all shapes and sizes

There is a guinea pig for every pet parent. From short-haired options to long-haired breeds. Guinea pigs come in all colors and patterns and their characteristics and personality will vary across the breeds.

In the US, the most popular or best guinea pig breeds include the American/English guinea pig which is known for its laid-back and easygoing personality. Then there’s the high-energy Abyssinian guinea pig which has a distinct appearance, due to the presence of rosettes in their fur.

11. Guinea pigs are low-maintenance

From their low grooming needs to their hardy nature, these fur friends are considered to be low-maintenance pets.

But as is the case with any fur friend, they will require a handful of your time, energy and love as you’ll still need to clean out their enclosure, give them daily social interaction and give them some time outside of their hutch.

12. This makes them good for children

Guinea pigs don’t need lots of specialist equipment, which makes them suitable for being one of the best first pets for children.

However, as we mentioned before, all animals need some TLC. So it’s important to supervise children closely until they're mature enough to take on more responsibility.

13. They love other guinea pigs

Have your heart set on adopting two guinea pigs? If you’ve got enough space, that’s a great idea as these fur friends are social characters. While they will enjoy spending time with you, these pets do best when they’re housed with another cavy.

If you're not looking to grow your fur family, just make sure you adopt both guinea pigs of the same sex as a female can give birth to up to 5 litters per year!

14. They like people

While guinea pigs are communal animals (which means you shouldn’t keep them alone) they also enjoy human company.

So be sure to factor in some time with your cavy to help strengthen your bond and keep them entertained and active.

15. Their diet is simple (once you get it right)

Keen to find out what guinea pigs eat? Well, you’ll be pleased to know that there are a whole host of things guinea pigs can eat. From hay and vegetables to some garden plants and herbs, guinea pigs are herbivores at heart so they only eat plants and plant-based foods.

16. Guinea pigs can help relieve stress

It’s a well-touted phrase that pets can help to decrease stress levels — and if that’s to be believed, guinea pigs are no different.

According to the American Heart Association’s 2022 Healthy Bond for Life survey, 95% of pet parents rely on their pet for stress relief. While the most popular ways pets help people de-stress is by snuggling, making their owners laugh (67%) and helping them feel less lonely (61%).

17. Guinea pigs can live indoors or outside

Do you live in an apartment? Or only have a small amount of outdoor space? This isn’t necessarily a problem.

Depending on what state you live in and the weather, guinea pigs can live indoors or outside, just as long as they are carefully sheltered and protected from extreme temperatures and have enough space for them to run and forage as they, please.

18. Guinea pigs can reduce loneliness

All pets can provide some form of comfort – and guinea pigs are another great example of this.

Yes, you might live with a partner or friends, but there will be moments when you’re home alone. However, with your guinea pig by your side snuggling and purring away, you'll never really feel lonely.

19. Guinea pigs have lots of energy

Any guinea pig owner will know that these prey animals are highly active.

So much so, that all that playing, chewing, and/or eating might have you questioning whether guinea pigs sleep? The answer is they do. But these furry friends don’t need loads of sleep to thrive. It's been said they can be awake for up to 20 hours a day!

20. They have a relatively long lifespan

Are you wondering how long do guinea pigs live?

Typically speaking, vets generally estimate that these loveable creatures grace us with their presence for around five to seven years. However, if a guinea pig is well looked after, some can live up to 10 years.

21. Guinea pigs make for great companions

Fun, cuddly and pretty vocal, the more time you spend with your fur friend the more bonded you’ll both be.

Whether it’s them standing at the end of their hutch so they can see what you’re doing. Or following you around the garden. Once you gain a guinea pig’s trust, your little shadow won’t want to be too far from your side.

22. Vaccinations are few and far between

Unlike cats or dogs, guinea pigs don’t require any routine vaccinations.

However, it is well worth taking your fur friend to the vet for regular check-ups to ensure they’re happy and healthy as once guinea pigs start to show signs of illness it may be too late.

To help offer some peace of mind, it's well worth investing in the best pet insurance to help you cover any unexpected costs.

23. Guinea pigs will eat your grass

When guinea pigs aren’t eating hay, they’ll love getting their teeth stuck into grass. Devouring grass can help their digestive system to function properly, as it's packed with fiber and vitamin C which is important for your cavy’s health.

Plus, all that grinding of the grass will help prevent their teeth from growing too long. It's a win-win.

24. They are curious characters

Guinea pigs are natural foragers. So they’ll love searching around their hutch for any hidden food, playing with their toy, or running through tunnels. This can make them a joy to watch as they learn and discover new things.

25. They are relatively quiet

There’s no denying that guinea pigs are chatterboxes. From their ‘chutting’ noises and their adorable ‘wheeking’ to their purring sounds, guinea pigs are known (and loved) for the range of sounds they make. But social butterflies they might be, all those noises won’t wake up the neighbors.

So whether you live in an apartment or in close proximity to others, you needn't have to worry about your guinea pigs making too much noise.

26. They thrive on routine

Just like cats and dogs, guinea pigs thrive once in a routine. Not only can a good routine make your fur friend feel right at home, but it can also help ensure that your guinea pig gets the right exercise, nutrition, and rest they need. And a happy and healthy them is an even happier you!

27. Guinea pigs are fun

These sociable characters are known for being fun. For example, they love being hand-fed which is not only a great way to bond with your guinea pig but an exciting way to add some enrichment into their life (and yours!).

Plus, when they’re not chewing leafy greens from your hand, they’ll often spend most of their day playing – especially if you've invested in some of the best guinea pig toys, like a hideaway or run. The fun never has to end!

28. They’re cute

How can you resist these beauties? Provided you’ve got the right setup for your cavy to help your furry friend thrive, these sweet little non-aggressive creatures are packed full of character and cuteness. The question you'll be asking yourself is why wouldn’t you want to have them as a pet?

29. Guinea pigs have great teeth

Another fun fact about guinea pigs? Did you know that a guinea pig’s teeth never stop growing?

That’s because these furry friends are designed to chew all day and they often do so on long strands of hay which can help them wear their teeth down and prevent them from becoming uncomfortable.

30. They don’t cost lots of money

Unlike the most expensive pets in the world, guinea pigs won’t cost you a small fortune to home. Generally speaking, depending on the breed and whether you adopt or purchase from a breeder, guinea pigs will cost somewhere in the region of $10 to $100.

But just remember, you’ll also need to budget for hay, clean bedding, a hutch or indoor cage, grooming equipment, and a run. They'll also need food and some of toys to provide your furry friend with all the mental and physical stimulation they require.

31. Guinea pigs are easy to handle (once you know how)

Every animal is different – that’s what makes them so special – but most guinea pigs love some human attention. So once you’ve spent some time with them and formed a wonderful bond, they'll love being handled gently with care and coming to you for a cuddle.

32. They’ll keep the kids entertained

If you've got little animal lovers in your home, they'll love sharing their world with a guinea pig. aa2We all know there’s nothing worse than hearing your little one say 'I’m bored’. But that’s where a pet, like a cavy, can help bust some boredom, because there’s always something to do.

Whether it's cleaning out their hutch and filling it with the best bedding for guinea pigs, letting them out in their run, or hand-feeding them their favorite vegetables.

Need some guidance on how to look after guinea pigs or what to do if your guinea pig is sick? Check out all our vet-approved tips.

Playing with your rabbit is one of the best activities to do with your bunny, as it will help establish a strong bond and sense of security. Spending time with your fur friend can also help your rabbit steer clear of boredom-driven behavior, like chewing cables or cabinet corners.

Of course, there are many breeds of rabbits so the best activities to do with your bunny will depend on the type you have. For example, a Holland lop has bundles of energy so it might be wise to invest in one of the best rabbit runs, to help them stretch their legs. Any activities you do with a Jersey Wooly rabbit should be done indoors, as they prefer to call one of the best indoor rabbit hutches their home.

That said, bunnies are crepuscular creatures so will be ready and raring to play at dusk and dawn. To help you bust some boredom, we've compiled a list of the best activities to do with your bunny.

32 activities to do with your bunny

1. Free roam

Bunnies are happiest exploring and if your fur friend isn’t already free roaming, then, depending on the breed you have, it's worth dedicating a space inside or outside for them to do just that.

Remember, if you've got an indoor rabbit, discover how to bunny-proof a room first, to keep your little hopper safe.

2. Chew toys

The best food for rabbits will ensure you're rabbit is getting the right nutrients it needs to be happy and healthy.

But introducing a chew toy is just as important as it can help them perform natural behaviors, like chewing and chin rubbing. These toys can also help rabbits wear their teeth down, as they grow continuously.

Plus, it's a great way of initiating play in the very early stages of establishing a bond with your bunny. It can be relatively hands-off, leaving both you and your rabbit to enjoy being in each other's company.

3. Make tunnels

It's time to get creative. Depending on the size and nature of your bunny you can decide which materials and/or household objects are best fit to entertain your four-legged friend.

Whether you make your own tunnel or invest in one of the best bunny toys, like a hand-woven seagrass option, there's much fun to be had here!

4. Encourage foraging

Foraging is a natural behavior for a rabbit and is the perfect instinct to draw on in play. You can use bunny-friendly sand boxes and cardboard boxes filled with shredded paper or buy a purpose-made snuffle mat for them to explore.

5. Facilitate digging

Digging often occurs whether you like it or not and we are firm believers of, if you can’t beat them, join them. Lean into the digging fun and create a safe and dedicated space in your garden or home for your rabbit to enjoy.

6. Branches

A family (and furry favorite). If you are tight on time and tools then place some apple tree logs and branches into their hutch and let them chew and strip the bark off within a matter of days.

As long as the wood hasn't been treated with pesticides, this is safe (and fun) for them to do.

7. Reverse Fetch

This next activity tasks the human with all of the fetching and the bunny with all of the fun.

Play with toys your rabbit can grasp in their mouth – you’ll know when you’ve got this right because toys will be swiftly thrown all over the place in response. Then fetch them and start the game all over again.

8. Share a treat

Playing with your bunny can be as straightforward as sharing a snack in each other's company. This is the perfect bonding opportunity and after a long day allows you to get the best of both worlds.

And, if you're wondering what to feed a rabbit, check out our expert-backed guide on what you can and can't treat your bunny to.

9. Training

Rabbits love to learn, so work with your brainy bunny to unlock some new skills.

Why not learn how to litter box train a rabbit and teach them how to put the best rabbit litter boxes to good use? Or teach them how to respond to their name or give you a kiss? Training is a great form of enrichment and highly rewarding for both of you.

10. Blanket Escape

It's simple, easy, and super sweet. Use a blanket your four paws are familiar with and gently place it over your rabbit and use sound, treats, and speech to encourage your bunny to find its way out.

Most bunnies will find their way out unprompted and head straight back for more!

11. Bunny Maze

Simple, but super fun. You can buy or create a maze for your bunny to explore from something as simple as rearranging furniture and hiding treats. If you intend to make your own maze, always research rabbit-safe material to use.

12. View

Rabbits have an almost 360° vision, which, in the wild, allows them to see predators coming. So why not consider installing bunny-friendly ledges at various heights and angles to help them make the most of their sight?

Leaning into their wide field of sight enables your rabbit to experience more of the world from their point of view.

13. Magic Cups

We all know this one well, and believe it or not so can your bunny! Mastering the art of picking the right cup to reveal a sweet treat is well within the reach of those four adorable paws.

Start off simple, with clear cups, allowing your rabbit to use more of its senses to seek out the reward. Before long, their nose alone will lead the way!

14. Follow the leader

This game requires highly-scented snacks and fast feet! Familiarize your bunny with the treat of choice, take a few steps away, place it on the floor, and when ready call your bunny over to enjoy their reward.

Repeat, changing direction and pace to see if your bunny will run after you (and your snacks!)

15. Bunny bowling

Set up plastic bowling pins either indoors or outside and sit back as your bunny explores the new toys and finds great enjoyment in knocking them down with their nose.

16. Bunny Thief

A mischievous rabbit will love nothing more than engaging in this game, centered entirely around them taking something from you and not looking back.

Lie on the floor and leave a treat or toy resting in your palm. Be patient and wait for your curious companion to engage.

17. Cat Ball

Rabbits enjoy playing with small balls and cat balls with bells or those made with crinkly fabric are always a hit.

Take turns to roll the ball to one another. It might take a few attempts, but it’s a game worth being patient for.

18. Obstacle Course

There is little a bunny loves more than discovering a new space. But if you find yourself short of rabbit-proof play spaces you can elevate the ones you already have with obstacle courses.

Experiment with different bunny-friendly textures and heights as you create a whole new world for your big-eared pet to explore.

19. Petting

Don’t overlook the power of petting. It can be easy to feel the pressure of going above and beyond for your bunny, but sometimes there is nothing better than a cuddle or two!

20. Hide and seek

If your rabbit comes running when you call then hide and seek is a great option for you to try. Start slowly, hide in their space, somewhere they know well and call their name. The more you play, the further you can go and the faster they will hopefully hop to find you!

21. Let them binky

Heard of bunny binkies? Binkies are known best for demonstrating a bunny's happiness and excitement. Whilst these jumps and twists are a cute display of joy, they are also the perfect opportunity for play.

The more you know your rabbit, the easier it will be to help build up their binkies.

22. Once-over

We're never one to shy away from a bunny cuddle. But keeping your rabbit close to you will also offer up the perfect opportunity to give them the once over. For example, carefully check that your rabbit's nose is moist, their ears are clean and the corners of their eyes are free of discharge.

Approach this however works best for your bunny but the aim of the game is to give your rabbit a ‘once-over’ whilst they are calm and happy! This will make health checks and trips to the vet much easier.

23. Puzzle toys

Looking for a quick fix? If you are heading out the door and don’t have time to put an activity together, puzzle toys are fantastic boredom-busters and will keep your bunny engaged while you’re away.

24. Cardboard Castles

A cardboard box is the gift that keeps on giving. Experiment with cardboard for free, rabbit-friendly fun. Whether you craft your bunny a castle fit for a queen or you cut out holes so they can have another spot to feel safe and secure in, there’s endless fun to be had.

25. Hopping Challenge

Put your pet's hop to the test. Use various household and bunny-safe items to set up a hop-tastic trail for your rabbit to explore. Footstools, upturned buckets, and boxes are all great options to get you started.

26. Gift-giving

Take an old box, some shredded paper, hay, or other bunny-safe material, and hide treats, toys, and rewards for your bunny to find. This activity draws on your rabbit's foraging instinct and provides great mental stimulation.

27. Washing line

For the bunnies led by their tummies, this activity is ideal. Hang some string from one end of their hutch (or play space) to another, carefully pegging veggies along the line (peppers and lettuce work best!), and let them enjoy the healthy, hanging treats.

28. A whole new world

Have you ever decided to rearrange your entire room on a whim? The same can be done for your rabbit, with even bigger rewards. Updating their play or living space reignites their curiosity and breathes new life into an old space.

29. Furry Destroyers

If you have a bunny who loves to make a mess, why not lean into the chaos? Fill a shoebox with shredded paper and let them at it! Straw mats, bunny-friendly newspapers, or an old magazine are also fantastic options.

30. Baby Bunnies

Rabbits who enjoy throwing will have great fun with baby toys. The rattle of plastic keys, wooden blocks, or plastic cat toys will elevate this level of play and is a great opportunity for you to play together.

31. Bunny Fishing

This is a fantastic option for families with young children who are looking to bond with their bunny.

On your next walk pick up a long stick (this will become your fishing rod) and attach a piece of string to one end. Carefully tie a knot around a piece of lettuce and dangle it for your rabbit. The entire family will have great fun watching the bunny nibble away at each piece, whilst keeping little hands at a safe distance!

32. Switch up their space

Engaging with your bunny and adding excitement to their day does not have to cost a lot of money or take a lot of time.

Try adding an old rug or scrap piece of carpet to their habitat and enjoy watching them explore it. So pause before discarding household items like cardboard tubes and let your rabbit put them to greater use.

Wondering how to keep your bunny warm and happy? Discover the expert-approved rabbit winter care tips or check out the best heated pet beds.

Caring for tortoises, aquatic turtles, and terrapins means getting their meals just right – and that’s not as straightforward as tossing them a few leaves! These cool reptiles have some seriously varied appetites. Some are all about munching on veggies, plants, and the occasional fruit, while others are happy to feast on a combo of greens, insects, and even fish. Whether you’re a proud tortoise owner or taking care of a playful aquatic turtle, understanding what your reptile buddy can safely eat is the key to good pet turtle care.

Let’s take a look at a snapshot of the huge variety of potential foods for your shelly friends, covering everything from crunchy greens, pretty flowers, and garden weeds for herbivores, to protein-packed creepy crawlies for omnivores.

One of our top tips for taking care of pet turtles is understanding the unique diets of aquatic turtles and terrapins, whose nutritional needs and desires are slightly different from those of land-dwelling tortoises. Always consult an expert in Chelonians (the official term for this group of shelled reptiles) if you’re unsure, but with a little knowledge, you can make sure your reptile is getting the right balance of nutrients to grow strong shells, stay active, and enjoy a long life.

32 things pet turtles can eat

1. Turtle pellets

Commercial turtle pellets are the obvious choice of feed. These diets are designed to be nutritionally complete, to meet the turtle’s needs in terms of vitamins, minerals, and micronutrients. The range of this dry food varies so that you can select according to your pet’s need, whether it’s an aquatic turtle or a tortoise, or for hatchlings, juniors, and so on.

2. Scotch thistle

Hardly the most palatable of textures, but Scotch thistle is an excellent source of calcium, potassium, vitamin B, and omega-6. It’s not the best choice for very young tortoises, as the spines may be troublesome so stick to the softer young leaves for them. The older folk will enjoy the whole plant, root, flowers and all.

3. Earthworms

If you have an omnivorous turtle, they will love the blend of fat, protein, and succulence that an earthworm provides. On the other hand, tortoises – or land turtles – tend to be vegetarian, so they are less appropriate, even if they might pick one up when trundling across the yard.

4. Crickets

Many turtles enjoy the crunch of a high-fiber, high-protein cricket, which has good nutritional content for the omnivorous brigade. Insects in general are an excellent choice for amphibious turtles, as enrichment as much as for their dietary benefits, such as boosting their digestion.

5. Blackberries

Blackberries are a popular treat for many of fruit-eaters, although the berries themselves should be fed sparingly as they are high in sugar, and they are not suitable for all turtles and tortoises. They do contain useful vitamins. Bramble leaves are fine to feed in moderation, though not every turtle loves the taste.

6. Kale

Dark leafy greens such as kale are often feted as excellent turtle food, as they are highly nutritious veggie sources, packed with vitamins and minerals. However, it should be fed in moderation as it can cause digestive upset.

7. Pansies

The colorful pansy – leaves and flowers – is suitable for all tortoise species. However, don’t feed them plants recently bought from a garden center as they may be sprayed with harmful insecticides. Instead, wait for new growth – these are a serious turtle delicacy.

8. Dandelions

Dandelions – flowers and leaves – are often listed as safe for turtles to eat, and they provide plenty of vitamins and fatty acids. However, they are high in oxalates, so don’t let your tortoise binge on them. More suitable are the similar-looking yellow flowers hawkbit (or “false dandelion”) and oxtongue.

9. Mealworms

For omnivorous turtles, mealworms provide protein, fiber and fat, as well as being rich in amino acids. Don’t pick them out of the garden though; dried mealworms are inexpensive from the pet shop, and a safer bet as they are much less likely to harbor disease.

10. Melon

Melons – canteloupe, watermelon, honeydew, among others – are a huge treat for many types of turtle, although not all species can handle the high-sugar content. Like us, they often have a sweet tooth (or, being toothless, more accurately “sweet beak”), and these juicy morsels should be reserved as special titbits, not a main part of their diet.

11. Guava

Fruit-eating tortoises, such as box turtles, tend to love the sweet taste of guava and can eat it in small amounts.

12. Lambs’ lettuce

Often found in salad bags, but also a common weed growing in the wild, lambs’ lettuce is fine to feed tortoises as part of a mixed diet. While iceberg lettuce has little nutritional value, these darker leaves are more beneficial. It also floats well in a tank for our aquatic friends.

13. Banana

Yes, fruit-eating turtles can eat bananas and even with the skin on – it has added nutritional benefits. However, while the potassium boost is good, bananas should be offered in strict moderation as it’s addictively sweet. One fun fact about pet turtles is that they can have a sweet tooth.

14. Reptile stick food

Floating food sticks are a staple for aquatic turtles, who benefit from the precise nutritional content they provide. They’re specially formulated to meet reptilian needs, with high-quality protein, amino acids, calcium, and vitamins – and they’re designed to be tasty.

15. Bloodworms

Bloodworms are a great protein source for many types of reptiles and fish, including aquatic turtles. You can feed it live – just watch them wriggle – or in tiny frozen blocks which you defrost before dropping in the tank.

16. Daphnia

Also known as water fleas, these small planktonic crustaceans are a staple food for growing aquatic turtles. You can feed them live, freeze-dried, or frozen (defrosted). And don’t worry about the flea bit – they don’t have any mechanisms to sting or bite.

17. Roses

Many varieties of roses are safe for tortoises to eat, such as wild roses, hibiscus (Chinese rose), rock roses, and normal garden roses. This includes petals and leaves. As with all flowers, don’t feed roses directly from florists or garden centers in case they are sprayed with harmful insecticides.

18. Radish

Most kinds of radish – wild, pink, and white – can be fed in moderation to many tortoises. However, this family does contain glucosinolates, which can cause damage if it is a major part of their diet, so stick to small portions.

19. Zucchini

Fruit-eating tortoises can enjoy the main zucchini, while the short-lived flowers are also edible. Many of our shelly friends love the crunch factor.

20. Romaine lettuce

Romaine lettuce has a high water content, and therefore doesn’t offer great nutritional value, but is fine to feed in moderation. In comparison to iceberg lettuce, it contains more vitamins A, C, E, calcium, and fiber, and tortoises tend to enjoy the texture.

21. Feeder fish

Live fish offer environmental enrichment for an aquatic turtle’s dinner, mirroring what it might find in the wild. Feeder fish such as guppies, platies, and swordtails are ideal, while oily fish should be avoided due to their high levels of unsaturated fatty acids.

22. Eggshells

Did you think eggshells were just good for making compost? Turns out the high calcium carbonate content of a boiled eggshell helps tortoises build strong shells. Shells for shells.

23. Prickly pear

The pads of prickly pear cacti are good for turtles to eat, being high in calcium, and they tend to relish the taste and texture. This variety of cactus tends to be less spiky than others, so more palatable.

24. Grass

Many types of grass are safe to feed turtles, from pampas, barley, and wheat to oats, cats, timothy, and fescue. In fact, for land turtles grass is a staple. Although it isn’t massively nutritious it’s good for grazing. Just make sure it has no fertilizer or insecticide lingering.

25. Clover

Red and white clover contains a lot of protein, but it’s safe to feed in moderation (except for Mediterranean tortoises which require a low-protein diet for healthy shell growth). Clover also contains nutritious vitamins, including A and B.

26. Snails

Aquatic turtles in particular benefit from eating snails, which provide nutritious calcium for their shell growth. The caveat is that they do not carry parasites, which is fairly common. Snails are a tasty delicacy for a turtle – anyone for escargots?

27. Grasshoppers

Grasshoppers can be bought in a tub as a supplementary treat for your turtle, providing a naturally high-protein food, which they tend to adore.

28. Cucumber

Crunchy but watery, cucumbers offer little in the way of nutrition – but they do contain some fiber, minerals, and vitamins. Where they are really valuable is in helping hydration or hiding meds as they make a popular treat.

29. Mango

It’s no surprise that fruit-eating turtles love mangoes – who doesn’t enjoy their exotic, sweet, and juicy taste? It’s sticky and contains a lot of sugar, so reserve it for special occasions.

30. Apple

Apples should be fed sparingly, but they go down extremely well as a sweet morsel for fruit-eating turtles. Remove the pips, which contain the toxin cyanide, before offering this delicacy.

31. Slugs

Many box turtle owners report that slugs are their shelly friends’ favorite food. At one time, these turtles were even kept in gardens to control the slug population. These juicy creatures actually make a nutritious addition to the diet, thanks to their protein, vitamin, and mineral content – and they even pack a quick hydration boost. However, they can carry parasites and might have had exposure to pesticides.

32. Deadnettle

Deadnettle – purple, yellow, spotted, or white – is a safe food for tortoises, but don’t confuse it for the very similar henbit, which is not good to feed. Not all turtles love deadnettle, but it provides iron, and vitamins such as A, C, and K.

Feeding a pet turtle or tortoise may seem simple – just offer a mix of vegetables, the odd fruity treat, a bit of meat here and there or scraps from the table. But there’s more to it than meets the eye. When it comes to what do pet turtles eat, these reptiles have specific dietary needs shaped by what they’d naturally eat in the wild, and not all foods – nor all turtles – are created equal. One of the amazing turtle facts is that some turtle species are meat eaters, others omnivores, happily munching on a variety of meat, fish, and plants, while many types stick strictly to vegetation.

And what’s safe for us to eat can be harmful to them; even common plants can be toxic to turtles and tortoises due to compounds they can’t break down. To keep them healthy, it’s crucial to understand what’s safe and what isn’t. In the wild, turtles and tortoises know what to avoid, but in captivity, they depend on us to make those decisions. The wrong foods – even seemingly harmless fruits or veggies, or processed snacks we enjoy – can lead to digestive issues or even life-threatening conditions.

Let us guide you through some of the foods that are off-limits for your shelled friend, helping you to replicate their natural diet as closely as possible, for a long and healthy life.

32 foods pet turtles should not eat

1. Processed meat

Even if you have a carnivorous or omnivorous turtle, processed meat such as salami, sausage, and bacon, could be harmful. These meats tend to contain preservatives such as nitrates, salt, and other chemicals which are unhealthy for a turtle’s digestive system. You wouldn’t find anything resembling processed meat in the wild – which is a good all-round tip.

2. Bread

Most starchy carbs have no nutritional benefit to turtles, and the denseness of bread makes it difficult for turtles to digest – plus if it’s a commercial loaf, it’s likely to contain preservatives.

3. Oranges

While the effects of citrus fruits on turtles are not precisely known, it is likely that the sugar and acid will upset their natural gut flora. They are high in oxalates which can lead to health issues.

4. Avocado

All parts of the avocado – flesh, roots, leaves, bark, flower, stone, and peel – are toxic to tortoises, producing moderate to severe gastric upset thanks to the presence of persin. This is dangerous for other reptiles and amphibians so don’t risk it on your turtle.

5. Lemon

As with other citrus fruits such as grapefruit, orange and satsuma, the active ingredients in lemons can cause gastric problems in many animals, and most probably turtles, too. High in sugar and acid, they are likely to upset the natural gut flora.

6. Corn

While the leaves of maize are turtle-edible, the corn itself (either the ears or cobs) can produce a serious, sometimes fatal, reaction. Sweetcorn is very high in phosphorus, protein, and sugars, which can ferment in the gut.

7. Daffodils

Daffodils and their cousin the narcissus adorn our gardens and wild areas in springtime, but keep your tortoise away from these appealing flowers, which can have violent effects on our shelly friends. All parts of daffodils are poisonous, causing vomiting, diarrhea and even seizures, which can cause damage to the nervous system and heart.

8. Mackerel

Aquatic turtles enjoy a bit of fish in their diet, but oily types such as mackerel are very high in fat, which can upset their nutritional balance, and lead to vitamin E deficiency. Watch out, because they love the smell and taste of it.

9. Iceberg lettuce

It’s an iconic picture, a happy tortoise chomping on a pile of lettuce, but iceberg letttuce is not an ideal meal. While it’s not poisonous, it has very low nutritional value and they’d benefit more from some more colorful leaves, such as radicchio or red leaf lettuce. However, if they need hydrating, the iceberg could do the job.

10. Cheese

In the wild, turtles would never eat dairy products and cheese is no exception. It is too high in protein, fat, and energy, and turtles are actually lactose-intolerant, meaning they cannot digest it properly.

11. Chocolate

We hear you – why would anyone deny their friend a square of chocolate? Alas, chocolate is toxic to most animals. It contains theobromine, caffeine, sugar, and dairy – all of which are off-limits for turtles. All the more for you then...

12. Nuts

Nuts are a natural food that you should never feed your turtle. They contain phytic acid, which inhibits calcium absorption – which is absolutely essential for turtles to thrive, as a lack of calcium can lead to metabolic bone disease.

13. Garlic

Garlic, whether the cloves or the leaves and flowers of wild garlic, is not advisable fodder for turtles. The odd nibble might not do them severe harm, but as a general rule plants from bulbs are not appropriate.

14. Candy

Candy has no nutritional benefits for any living creatures, and certainly not for turtles, who would never find a sherbet lemon in the wild! And while turtles don’t have teeth to rot, the high sugar content and minimal nutritional value of candy means it has no benefits.

15. Chillis

These hot and spicy peppers are from the same family as deadly nightshade and contains capsaicin, which is an irritant. Tortoises tend to gravitate towards red food, so don’t let them anywhere near chilies or you’ll have a fire-breathing reptile on your hands.

16. Broccoli

What could be wrong with the superfood broccoli? Plenty, if you’re a turtle. This vegetable contains goitrogens, which mess up turtles’ thyroid activity and can result in liver or kidney stones.

17. Cabbage

Like broccoli, cabbage comes from the Brassica family, and so while not fatally toxic, it can cause liver and kidney damage. Avoid all forms of cabbage – red, savoy, white and sweetheart.

18. Buttercups

Some owners report their turtles eating buttercups with no ill health, but there is also a buttercup fatality on record after eating large quantities, so tread carefully around this golden little flower. Mildly toxic but not worth the risk.

19. Rhubarb

Rhubarb is a chancy vegetable even for humans – we can eat the stalks but not the leaves. However, for tortoises, even the pretty pink stalks are a no-go area. This plant is high in oxalic acid, preventing calcium absorption and causing damage to various vital organs.

20. Currants

The leaves of red, white, and blackcurrants contain hydrogen cyanide which – as the name suggests – is highly poisonous. A nibble of a leaf is unlikely to cause damage, but it’s best to steer clear. However, for fruit-eating tortoises, the berries are tolerated in small quantities but due their bitterness they don’t tend to be particularly popular.

21. Eggplant

Eggplants are highly toxic, and especially the leaves. In common with other nightshade plants, they contain solanine, which is potentially fatal, causing gastrointestinal and neurological disorders.

22. Onion

Onions are toxic to a range of animals, including birds, horses, and dogs. In common with other plants grown from bulbs, it is likely they could cause serious illness in tortoises as well.

23. Pomegranate

This jewel-like gourd isn’t actually toxic, and some fruit-eaters can tolerate it. However, it contains a lot of tannins, which can interfere with iron, zinc, and calcium absorption.

24. Tomato

Tomatoes come from the nightshade family, and contain toxic alkaloids. Unripe fruit, leaves and stems are especially poisonous, while even ripe fruit has little nutritional benefit, so it is not recommended. While fruit-eating tortoises tend to enjoy the taste, tomatoes are high in sugar and phosphorous, low in calcium and fiber – the polar opposite to what a turtle needs.

25. Parsnip

This root vegetable contains a chemical that can cause photosensitivity in some livestock and despite the different nature of a turtle’s skin it is not recommended in their diet. Parsnips are high-carb and have an unfavorable ratio of calcium to phosphorus.

26. Gooseberries

Like currants, gooseberry leaves contain hydrogen cyanide which may cause serious problems. Fruit-eaters may be able to tolerate small amounts of the prickly green fruit, although they will probably only find them palatable when they’re super ripe and turning pink, and they’re hard to separate from their leaves.

27. Mushrooms

It should go without saying that the terrifying red toadstool is highly poisonous, and many mushrooms are toxic to varying degrees. Edible mushrooms are high in protein and should only be fed sparingly if at all, and only to certain species that can tolerate the protein levels.

28. Bean sprouts

This human health-food has the opposite effect on our shelly friends, being far too high in protein for their good. Excessive levels of protein can cause too much growth, which can lead to shell deformities and metabolic bone disease as well as overtaxing the kidneys. Many sprouting beans also contain phytic acid which inhibits calcium absorption, so they have no place in a turtle diet.

29. Cookies

Your turtle will probably gobble up a chunk of cookie with alacrity, but it won’t do him in any good. Turtles are high in fat and sugar, potentially contain toxic chocolate and dairy, which is not well tolerated. Keep the cookie to yourself.

30. Spinach

While dark leafy greens generally get the thumbs-up on the turtle dinner plate, spinach is an anomaly. It does contain plenty of calcium, like other leafy greens, but this is nullified by its oxalic acid, which prevents the calcium from being absorbed. Back to square one.

It also contains calcium oxalate crystals which can cause irritation to the skin, mouth, and throat.

31. Crab sticks

Don’t confuse reptile sticks with crab sticks. Reptile sticks are specially made for aquatic reptiles, providing all the nutrients they need. Crab sticks, on the other hand, are a processed snack for humans. Although turtles may enjoy real crab meat, the high levels of processing and preservatives in crab sticks make them unsuitable for turtles.

32. Yogurt

Turtles do not digest dairy products – even plain yogurt. They never encounter dairy in the wild, so their digestive systems are not set up to cope with it.

Bearded dragons can make great pets, but they have quite specific dietary needs that you should be aware of before you take one on. They are omnivores, meaning they can eat a variety of fruits, vegetables, greens, and insects.

When it comes to bearded dragon care, offering them foods that are suitable for them is key. If you feel uncomfortable feeding your pets live prey, you might want to skip owning a bearded dragon, as they enjoy hunting for their food. Storing or breeding live prey requires some skill in itself, so bear this in mind if considering a bearded dragon or other pet that consumes live prey.

When it comes to how long do bearded dragons live, the answer is eight to 12 years with the right diet and living conditions. So keep this list handy when you're thinking of what to feed your scaly friend.

32 things to feed your bearded dragon

1. Dandelion

A staple for bearded dragons and it's something you can find in your garden for free are dandelion greens. Be careful if foraging for your pet and ensure you wash any plants from hedgerows or near roads thoroughly. Don't pick if you know herbicides are used in an area.

2. Clover

Another fantastic and free food that your bearded dragon will enjoy is clover. The leaves are nutritious, but the high-fiber flowers are likely to be a favorite for your pet. Again, be careful with herbicides, dog urine, and agricultural runoff when foraging for your dragon's dinner.

3. Plantain

There are different varieties of plantain, including ribwort plantain and broad-leaf plantain. These are considered weeds and can be found growing abundantly in meadows and on verges. Be sure of your identification when picking wild plants.

4. Watercress

Watercress is something you can grow for your pet that you might enjoy in your own salads. This peppery green plant is delicious for humans and bearded dragons alike. Be sure to chop finely when serving for your pet.

5. Arugula

Arugula is another peppery plant beloved by humans and bearded dragons alike. However, be sure to feed this one in moderation, as it contains goiterogens, which can impact thyroid funtion in dragons.

6. Crickets

You can purchase crickets live, frozen, dried, or freeze-dried. For the enrichment live prey provides for your bearded dragon, we recommend feeding live crickets, but in a pinch dried or frozen will do. Ensure you thaw anything you feed your reptile as they are cold-blooded.

7. Butternut squash

Bearded dragons love squash, and the most common variety you will find in the supermarket is butternut squash. Serve this cooked or raw, but make sure to chop it into dragon-bite-sized pieces.

8. Calciworms

"Calciworms" offer a good source of calcium for your bearded dragon, making them a nutritionally rich feeding choice. These are black soldier fly larvae that can be fed live and stored in the fridge.

9. Mealworms

Mealworms are cheap, abundant, and easy to find in the pet store. You won't need to find a reptile specialist, as mealworms are a favorite of birds and fish as well as reptiles.

10. Kingworms

Kingworms are another live feed you can purchase for your bearded dragon. Retailers like Amazon sell these beetle larvae in bulk and they do not need refrigeration (this will kill them) to stay fresh. They will not pupate when in the company of other larvae, so store them together in a plastic container.

11. Butterworms

Butterworms are the larvae of the Chilean moth, also known as Tebo worms. They make a great treat for your bearded dragon and will go to sleep when stored in the fridge, reactivating when brought back to room temperature so your pet can have them.

12. Silkworms

You can buy silkworms dried or fresh. They are soft-bodied making them easy for your bearded dragon to chew and are a great source of protein and polyunsaturated fats.

13. Cockroaches

As a seasoned reptile keeper, you may decide to breed cockroaches yourself. Dubia roaches are good for this, as they require high temperatures and humidity in order to breed so they won't infest your home if they escape. Females give birth to about 25 nymphs every 65 days, which will take three to four months to reach maturity. They are fast-moving, so enriching for your bearded dragon to hunt.

14. Hornworms

The bane of every gardener's life, tomato hornworms are destructive, but delicious if you're a bearded dragon. If you grow plants from the nightshade family such as tomatoes, peppers, or potatoes, you are likely to encounter a hornworm at some point. Thankfully, you can pluck them off your plants and feed them to your bearded dragon (so long as you don't use pesticides).

15. Asparagus

Raw asparagus is great for bearded dragons and something they can eat daily. You can also cook the asparagus, as this reduces the amount of oxalates, although it is generally thought to be better to raw feed them.

16. Peeled cucumber

Cucumber skin is difficult for bearded dragons to digest, but if you peel them before serving, they can make a nice snack for your pet. The high water content means they can fill up your bearded dragon's stomach without giving them much nutritional benefit.

17. Celery

Bearded dragons enjoy celery, but must only have this in moderation, as the oxalate content is high, which can lead to kidney problems. Similar to cucumber, the high water content means celery can fill your pet up without serving them much by way of nutritional content.

18. Zucchini

As with cucumber and celery, zucchini can be fed to your bearded dragon raw, and in moderation. Serve in a salad with other nutritious fruits and vegetables.

19. Okra

Okra is a chewy vegetable, but bearded dragons have strong jaws and usually will have no issue chewing it. Chop it up small to make it easier for your pet to consume.

20. Bell peppers

Bell peppers can be served to your bearded dragon a few times a month, but the high oxalate content means they are unsuitable for daily feeding. Green and yellow are better than red peppers.

21. Cabbage

Your bearded dragon can have a small amount of cabbage once a week. Go for the outer leaves over the harder inner core of the cabbage when preparing a meal for your pet, as this will be easier for them to digest.

22. Chicory

Chicory is a beautiful plant that grows vigorously without much tending. This makes it a great option to grow in a pot and add to your bearded dragon's salads. You can also wild forage it if you are confident in your skills of identification.

23. Apples

Small slices of peeled apple are likely to go down a treat with your bearded dragon. They shouldn't have fruit every day, as it has a high sugar content that can be unhealthy for them, but in moderation can add variety to your pet's diet.

24. Berries

In moderation, your bearded dragon will enjoy berries such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries. Too much can cause obesity and digestive issues, so be sure to keep an eye on your pet's stools when they've had fruit and adjust accordingly.

25. Mango

Mango should be a rare treat, but your dragon is likely to enjoy the soft, sweet fruit. It is a good source of vitamins, but high in calories, so exercise moderation when feeding to your pet.

26. Papaya

Papaya is safe for bearded dragons, but again, the high sugar content means it should not be a daily food. Fruit should make up no more than 5% of a bearded dragon's diet.

27. Raisins

Bearded dragons can eat raisins — but that doesn't mean they should. Unlike with other pets, you don't need to panic if your bearded dragon accidentally consumes a raisin, as it isn't toxic for them, but avoid deliberately feeding high-sugar dried fruit.

28. Prunes

Prunes can be a great natural remedy for constipation. If your beardy is struggling to pass stool, adding small amounts of prune to their food may help move things along.

29. Pears

Pears can make a good occasional treat for your bearded dragon, but they are high in sugar and oxalates, making them unsuitable as a daily treat.

30. Watermelon

Your dragon is likely to enjoy a small piece of watermelon, but ensure you feed in moderation and only the pink fleshy parts, as the rind is difficult for them to chew and can cause digestive problems. Remove seeds before serving.

31. Plums

Plums are another fruit that bearded dragons can have as a treat. Ensure that the fruit is ripe and the flesh soft to make it easier for your dragon to chew, but don't give it to them too often as it is high in sugar.

32. Figs

Figs can make a nice treat for bearded dragons and they have a good ratio of calcium to phosphorus but are also relatively high in oxalates, so shouldn't be given too often.

Although many of us welcome the winter season and look forward to getting cozy, the temperature drop can pose unique challenges for our fluffy friends, which is why rabbit winter care is super important.

Rabbits are delicate creatures that are sensitive to cold weather and require extra care to stay warm and comfortable during the chillier months. There are lots of ways to keep your bunny warm, like buying one of the best heated pet beds and weather-proofing their hutch, which vet Dr. Emma Chandley has explained below. Emma is a practicing vet with over 13 years of experience in small animal surgery and medicine. She has been a rabbit lover since she could walk and talk.

From providing adequate shelter to offering nutritious food and plenty of enrichment, here's everything you need to know about keeping your furry friend happy and healthy this winter.

How to take care of rabbits in winter

Rabbits are very sensitive to the cold and can easily become sick if they are exposed to harsh winter temperatures. Here are some top tips for taking care of rabbits in the winter:

Choose a suitable hutch: Make sure you pick one of the best outdoor rabbit hutches that are made from sturdy materials like wood. It must be insulated well so that it retains heat properly.

Placement of the hutch: Make sure you put your hutch out of the way of drafts or any place it will be exposed to rain, hail, or snow.

Bedding: It is very important to provide a warm sleeping area for your bunny using the best rabbit bedding. In the winter months, they will need a thick layer of fresh hay or straw. It is important to change the bedding regularly to make sure it is not wet or soiled from urine and feces.

Weatherproof the hutch: Ensure the hutch is protected from drafts and moisture build-up. Check there are no cracks or gaps in the wood and make sure the hutch isn't in a damp or moist environment.

Temperature: Make sure the hutch is warm enough throughout the day and night. You can use a thermometer to check the temperature. In winter your rabbit's hutch should be between 59–68°F. Their fur does provide some natural insulation but they still need help keeping warm, especially at night. Rabbits can tolerate colder temperatures if they have enough protection from the elements and a thick layer of bedding.

Good Nutrition: Always make sure your bunny has a good supply of the best hay for rabbits. They may need to eat more food in the winter months to maintain their energy levels. Offer your rabbit their daily measure of the best rabbit food. Lots of rabbits enjoy fresh vegetables too such as kale and carrots. For more advice, we've written a complete guide on what to feed a rabbit.

Adequate hydration: Your bunny must have access to fresh water 24/7. Rabbits can become dehydrated very quickly in cold weather. You can use a bowl or a water bottle with a nozzle. Check that the water is clean and that it has not frozen over.

Regular exercise: Keep your rabbit active – it has benefits for both their physical and mental health.

Visit your vet: Always ensure you keep up to date with your annual vet visits. Your vet will check your rabbits over, vaccinate them, monitor their general health status, and address any concerns.

Encourage playtime: This can be indoor or outdoor play, but in extremely cold temperatures, they're better off in the warm. This can be carried out by setting up a safe confined area where your bunny can hop and explore. The best rabbit toys, like tunnels, toys, and boxes can be used for them to explore and hide in. If you are letting your rabbit outside, they must be supervised at all times. Be cautious of ice or snow in the area your rabbit is playing as this may cause frostbite.

Are rabbits ok outside in winter?

Rabbits can be kept outside in the winter months, however, it's important to take precautions to ensure maximum comfort and safety. Despite their fluffy fur coats, bunnies are still susceptible to cold-related illnesses such as frostbite and hypothermia.

In the wild, rabbits live in underground burrows in large groups. The temperature does not change much and is usually around 50°F.

A rabbit hutch placed outside doesn't have the same insulation. It is important to ensure that rabbits living in a hutch outside have constant access to a sleeping area that is draught-free, dry, and warm.

Do rabbits need a heater in the winter?

In general, rabbits do not need a heater in the winter. Their fur provides a good amount of insulation, and as long as their living environment is adequately protected from the cold and wet, they can stay warm and comfortable.

Depending on where you live, if it is a place with extremely cold temperatures, or if your bunny is elderly, very young, or has a compromised immune system, providing additional warmth may be necessary.

The ideal temperature range should be between 45°F and 75°F. Other ways to keep your bunny warm include:

Insulated Hutches: It is possible to line hutches with insulating material to keep heat in. Always make sure your rabbit has free movement in and out of the insulated part to prevent them from becoming too warm.

Heated pads or blankets: If necessary, you can use a one of the best heat pads for pets or a blanket to provide extra warmth. These must be used with caution as rabbits can easily become too hot. Always cover pads and mats so that your bunny isn't lying directly on them.

Found this helpful? Read: How to keep a rabbit warm in the winter and Housing rabbits outdoors.

With so many different breeds of rabbits, you may be wondering what are the best types of bunnies for pets. While it may be hard to resist a cute, floppy-eared friend, the truth is that some breeds of rabbits are better suited to pet life than others.

If you're considering bringing a rabbit into your home the type of breed it is will be very important. While all breeds of rabbits will need the very best food for rabbits and plenty of space, toys, and love, each unique breed will have different care requirements in order to thrive.

We spoke to vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out which bunnies will make the perfect pets. Let's dive in!

Best bunnies for pets

If you are a first-time rabbit owner, you will want to read up on our top tips for taking care of rabbits. Dr. Rebecca MacMillan also advises against certain breeds for new bunny parents. Breeds with extreme features including giant rabbit breeds and those with flattened faces also known as brachycephalic breeds.

"These bunnies will have specific needs and may be more prone to developing certain health issues like dental disease," says Dr. MacMillan.

So what breeds are best for first-time owners? Here they are...

Dutch rabbits

One of the most recognizable breeds due to their two color patterns, the Dutch rabbit is great option for pet owners. They are easy-going in nature and are known for being calm and gentle.

Holland lops

Holland Lops rabbits make great pets as they are compact in size and generally pretty easy-going. They are originally from the Netherlands and were bred to be a smaller version of the French Lop. They are now one of the most popular breeds in the United States.

Lionhead rabbit

We cannot get over how stinking cute the lionhead rabbit is! Not only do they have a gorgeous mane of fur but they are an incredibly friendly breed. They will enjoy playing around with some best rabbit toys.

Harlequin rabbit

The most striking rabbit we've ever seen: the Harlequin rabbit is known for their markings and it's easy to see why. This breed is intelligent and very calm in nature. They would make an excellent addition to any family.

English spot rabbit

This rabbit is very active so having one of the best rabbit runs is a must so they can stretch their legs. Their distinctive markings are their chain of spots that run from their neck to their hind legs.

Tips for taking care of rabbits

If you are a new bunny parent, you might be thinking 'Can rabbits live alone?' While the answer is technically yes, they will have a much fuller and happier life when they live with another rabbit. We recommend keeping rabbits in neutered pairs.

Dr. MacMillan says, "This is essential for them to be able to perform natural behaviors such as mutual grooming. Rabbits are social animals in the wild and can become lonely and bored when kept alone, which can affect their quality of life."

When it comes to the do's and don'ts of feeding rabbits, you'll want to be sure that they have plenty of access to hay as it makes up 85% of their diet. You may also want to check out 32 surprising things rabbits can eat.

"Rabbits should be fed a predominantly hay or grass-based diet. This high-fiber diet helps to keep their teeth worn down and their digestion in good order," says Dr. MacMillan.

How much space does a rabbit need?

How much space does a rabbit need? For such a small pet, rabbits need a lot of space. They need plenty of room to run, burrow and practice their bunny binkies! Dr. MacMillan recommends their space to be a minimum of 3m(l) x 2m(w) x 1m(h).

Enjoyed this feature? Find out what your rabbit's body language is trying to tell you

Hamsters are omnivores, which means they can eat quite a range of foods. In the wild, they would eat a mix of plants and insects – and even our cute little domestic versions tend to enjoy a range of flavors and textures.

One thing’s for sure, hamsters love their grub. On account of their diminutive stature, they can’t actually eat very much, but they love to rifle through what you offer them, stuff the good bits into their pouches, and take it back to their burrow or the best hamster cage for a hungry moment later on.

Good brands of commercial pet foods should provide the balance of nutrients a hamster needs, but they can also eat many fruits, nuts, and veggies that humans eat (in tiny quantities). The guide is that their daily treat should be no larger than their little ears! Providing them with fresh, natural food every now and then can be stimulating and enriching – but make sure you are not inadvertently feeding them something inappropriate for hamsters. If you are in any doubt, don’t feed it.

Let’s take a look at some of the foods you should not offer your hamster.

32 things hamsters shouldn’t eat

1. Chocolate

Hamsters should never eat chocolate. Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to many animals. Hamsters are slightly more resistant than some other animals, however they do not metabolize it well due to their tiny bodies. Furthermore, chocolate melts and becomes sticky which is problematic for hamsters’ pouches, and it contains caffeine, another unsuitable substance.

2. Caffeinated products

Caffeine is a stimulant that can affect your hamster’s heart rate and metabolism, and should not be given to hamsters. A hamster’s heart already beats at up to 10 beats per second, and you don’t want it going any faster or it may go into cardiac arrest. Caffeine is found not only in drinks such as tea and coffee but also in chocolate and related products.

3. Peanut butter

While peanuts themselves are OK for hamsters to eat and provide a good source of protein in very small quantities, peanut butter is problematic. Its sticky texture means it can get stuck in their pouches. Commercial peanut butter often contains other ingredients such as salt, sugar, or xylitol, which are bad for hamsters to eat.

4. Citrus fruits

Lemons, limes, oranges, and grapefruits are acidic, which can cause irritation to hamsters’ pouches. And while the high levels of vitamin C found in citrus fruits are usually seen as a dietary boon, too much of this vitamin may actually increase the risk of serious disease in hamsters.

5. Onions

Onions can cause hemolytic anemia (a disease in which red blood cells are destroyed faster than they are made), which can result in respiratory problems and heart failure in hamsters. They should not have raw or cooked onions.

6. Garlic

Raw or cooked garlic, like onions, is toxic to hamsters – and many other animals – due to the chemical thiosulfate, which can cause blood disorders and breathlessness.

7. Avocado

Avocados contain persin, a fungicidal toxin that is poisonous to animals. It is present in both the stones and skin and can leach into the flesh and can cause digestive problems. While eating the flesh itself is unlikely to be fatal for your hamster, why take the risk with this high-fat food?

8. Rhubarb

The leaves of rhubarb are particularly poisonous to hamsters, as they contain very high oxalate levels, which can cause serious kidney problems. The stems are also fairly high in oxalates, so are likely to cause digestive upset.

9. Raw potatoes

Raw or green potatoes contain high levels of solanine, which can make your hamster extremely ill. There are plenty of raw vegetables that are healthy and add a nice crunch to your hamster’s diet but the potato is not one of them. Come to think of it, would you eat a raw potato?

10. Unripe tomatoes, leaves and stems

The leaves and stems of the tomato plant – which belongs to the nightshade family – are particularly high in solanine and tomatine, which is also present in unripened or green tomatoes. However, a nice juicy chunk of ripe tomato is fine for your hamster.

11. Candy

However much you think you are treating your hamster to a tasty bit of candy, sweeties are too high in sugar and therefore bad for their teeth and stomach. Candy is highly processed too, and anything that is designed as a human treat is likely to be unsuitable for a hamster.

12. Chips

You might wonder if chips – or crisps in the UK – would be an appropriate crunchy treat for a hamster, but they are a source of unneeded salt and excess fat and should be avoided.

13. Processed meat

Hamsters are omnivores and therefore they can eat meat in small quantities (everything is in minuscule rations with these tiny creatures!). However, processed meat is unhealthy and can lead to obesity – just as it can for humans – and may also contain excessive salt, spices, or chemicals.

14. Dairy products

Although hamsters are able to digest the lactose found in dairy products in their pregastric pouch, these are not something that they would naturally eat out in the wild. While a little chunk of a mild hard cheese may be tolerated, definitely avoid strong or blue cheeses, as well as sticky ones that may cause problems in the pouches.

15. Salted nuts

There are many nuts that are suitable for hamsters to gnaw on in small quantities, including pecans, pistachios, pine nuts, brazil nuts and peanuts. However, they must always be unsalted, so as not to cause harm to their kidneys.

16. Raw beans

While green beans such as runner and string beans are fine for hamsters to eat, uncooked pulses such as kidney beans are not suitable, causing gas and bloating. Even when cooked kidney beans can cause problems (and they’re mushy so sticky in the pouches).

17. Mushrooms

There is not enough evidence on the suitability of mushrooms in a hamster’s diet and therefore they should be avoided. A hamster has a delicate digestive system, and given that the nutritional components of different mushrooms vary widely, it’s best simply to omit them from the diet.

18. Almonds

While many nuts can be nutritionally beneficial for your hamster, the almond throws up a few concerns. Of the two types of almond – bitter and sweet – sweet is considered safe, while bitter is not. You’re unlikely to come across the bitter variety in the shops, given it’s not great for human consumption either. However, as there is some concern that sweet almonds still have trace amounts of the toxic chemical amygdalin, it’s best to stick to giving your hamster the nuts you know won’t cause any harm.

19. Sugary cereals

We know we shouldn’t eat sugary cereal, and nor should our hamsters. The odd flake of a Frostie or Cheerio won’t be harmful, but don’t make it a regular occurrence – hamsters don’t need the sugar rush or the tooth decay.

20. Dried fruit

The scientific jury is out on whether raisins and other vine fruits are actually poisonous to rodents – the RSPCA lists them as unsafe, while some hamster owners report no problems. It is likely that they contain mycotoxins, which can be harmful, and as their long-term effects aren’t known, it’s best to steer clear.

21. Garden flowers

It makes for a pretty Instagram shot, your hamster with a brightly colored flower in its mouth, but are you quite sure you know what your little buddy is eating? While there are many garden flowers, such as cornflowers, roses, and sunflower petals, which are edible for hamsters, there are many which are toxic – for example, tulips.

22. White or processed bread

Most commercial bread is unsuitable for hamsters as it is processed, with added sugar, salt, preservatives, and other unsuitable ingredients. A small amount of homemade, wholegrain bread is a safer option.

23. Pastries

Pastries are highly unsuitable given their high levels of fat, sugar and preservatives, as well as chocolate chips and other potentially toxic ingredients. They’re not great for human waistlines either, but don’t feed the leftovers to the hamster!

24. Spices

Spicy products will upset your hamster’s delicate digestive system, and should be avoided.

25. Artificial sweeteners

Artificial sweetener, such as xylitol, is dangerous for pets, including hamsters. While (we hope) you would be unlikely to add sweetener to your hamster’s food, it is found in many commercial products, such as peanut butter, chips and cereals.

26. Chillies

Like all spicy food, chillies aren’t appropriate hamster fodder, as they can cause gastrointestinal problems, as well as irritate the mouth, throat and pouches.

27. Porridge

Oats are typically fine for hamsters to eat, however, it’s not recommended once you cook it into porridge or oatmeal because wet and sticky food is problematic in the pouches. If you decide you must feed porridge to your hamster, make it loose and watery rather than hard and sticky – and always make it with water, not milk.

28. Sticky food

Any kind of sticky food can cling to the hamster’s pouches and clog them up. This can even lead to infection if something gets stuck.

29. Celery

The problem with celery is the strings that run all the way down the stick and can be a choking hazard. Celery, being mostly water, doesn’t have a high nutritional value, and should only be fed if you remove all the strings. There are other nice crunchy vegetables that are safer, more nutritious, and will take you less time to prepare.

30. Apple seeds

Apples are fine as a treat; their pips are not. The pips contain amygdalin, which converts into the poison cyanide when digested. While we don’t know how many apple pips it would take to cause your hamster problems, it’s worth simply cutting out the core, as you would for yourself.

31. Leeks

As a member of the allium family, leeks are bad for hamsters. They cause disorders of the red blood cells and breathing difficulties. Most pets are affected, including hamsters.

32. Iceberg lettuce

Green, crunchy vegetables are by and large good for your hamster to eat. However, iceberg lettuce is the exception as it is made up mostly of water, with minimal nutritional value, and furthermore can cause diarrhea. Darker greens such as kale and dandelion leaves are a better option.

If you enjoyed this feature why not read up on hamster breeds, hamster facts and find out the answer to the question how long do hamsters live?

Want to hear some fun facts about pet turtles? How about this? Did you know there are more than 350 species of turtle living in the world – on land, in the sea, and in freshwater? Turtles are fascinating creatures, from their prehistoric origins to their fantabulous bony shell, as unique to each turtle as a fingerprint.

A pet turtle might be an appealing addition to a household, but they require specialist care which is not to be undertaken lightly. Whether the “turtle” is indeed a turtle, terrapin, or tortoise, they have common physical traits and major differences – as well as having different classifications depending on where in the world you’re based. Although, one thing they will have in common is that they will certainly enjoy one of the best fish tanks to make a home in.

Let’s take a closer look at more fun turtle facts.

32 fun facts about pet turtles

1. Turtle, tortoise or terrapin?

Regardless of whether you’re talking about turtles, terrapins, or tortoises, all three are chelonians – reptiles with shells. The nitty-gritty of which is which largely comes down to where you are having this discussion. In the UK, tortoises are land-dwellers, while turtles and terrapins are aquatic (terrapins are slightly fonder of the land than turtles).

But in the US, turtle covers all three. The American Society of Ichthyologists and Herpetologists (devoted to the scientific study of fishes, amphibians, and reptiles) uses “turtle” to describe all species of chelonians, regardless of whether land-based, marine, or freshwater, but “tortoise” is their more specific term for slow-moving terrestrial species.

2. How many bones in a shell?

The turtle’s shell is made of bone – or more accurately bones. At least 50 bones make up the shell, which consists of the domed carapace at the top, and a flatter plastron covering the belly.

3. Toothless turtles

You’ve heard the saying “As rare as hen’s teeth” – well, turtles have no teeth at all. They are the only toothless reptile. Their mouths have a hard edge like a beak that they use for biting, which is made of keratin (the same hard substance as horses’ hooves). Some turtles have more serrated beaks.

4. Feet designed for purpose

Aquatic turtles have webbed feet or flippers – to help propel them through the water. The semi-aquatic turtles that spend some time in the water, some on land, tend to have webbed feet with claws, while the fully aquatic marine turtles have flippers – and they can swim fast.

Tortoises, on the other hand, have club-like forelegs and hindlegs rather than elephants. As land-dwellers, they don’t need to propel themselves through water, rather they need strong, powerful legs to carry their heavy weight and shell around on terra firma.

5. Salmonella carriers

Turtles commonly carry the salmonella bacteria on their shell. Although this doesn’t make the turtle sick, it can cause serious, possibly fatal, infection in humans. It is the most likely germ you will catch from your pet turtle, so always wash after handling them.

6. Long life

The lifespan of a turtle is largely dependent on the species. As a general rule, tortoises live the longest, but turtles are also fairly long-lived compared to most domestic pets, assuming all their needs are met. Expect an aquatic turtle to live around 20–30 years in captivity, with some of the marine turtles living for 50 years or more. Tortoises meanwhile can live for an average of a staggering 100 years or more! Even in the wild, their shell means they are less vulnerable to predators than many other animals, so their survival rate is good.

7. How to tell the boys from the girls

When you acquire a pet turtle, you may not know what its gender is. The gender is determined by the temperature during the incubation of the egg – cooler produces males; warmer produces females. Once out in the big wide world, some types of turtles are easily distinguished by appearance – for example, by size, color, and claw length.

However, the most common way to determine turtle gender is by the tail length. Females have short, thin tails, while the males’ are longer and thicker. It’s easier to work out when you have a few of the same types to compare.

8. Egg-layers

Turtles lay and hatch from eggs – though, like hens, the females can lay eggs without mating. These eggs will not produce baby turtles. For pet turtles, unfertilized eggs should be removed and not left to rot.

9. Vitamin A demands

We all need our vitamins and turtles are no different. They cannot store vitamin A in their bodies, but it is essential for their eyes, skin, mouth, lungs, muscles, bones and reproductive system – everything! Pet turtles are particularly susceptible to vitamin A deficiency which means you need to supply vitamin A sources in its food, from veggies such as leafy greens, and colorful vegetables such as bell peppers, carrots and squash.

A lack of vitamin A can cause swollen eyelids, kidney failure, lethargy and other symptoms.

10. Owner recognition

Turtles make for rewarding pets because they can recognize the sights and sounds of their owners. Many owners notice how their turtles will gravitate toward them when they enter the room. They have good eyesight and may associate humans with feeding time – or a bit of attention and affection! No wonder they are one of the best aquarium pets that aren't fish.

11. An ancient species

Turtles have been around for over 250 million years, originating in the Triassic Period, according to the Natural History Museum, and have survived several extinction events. Fossil turtles provide evidence, as well as cave paintings and rock art.

12. Shell armor

A turtle’s shell is a very effective form of protection from predators, as they can pull their head, legs, and tail inside the shell, which makes it very difficult for the predator to attack them successfully. This almost impenetrable bony structure is fantastic at protecting them not only from predators but also from abrasion, threats in the environment, and even fire.

However, if this super strong shell is penetrated, this serious injury could be fatal, as it leaves the turtle vulnerable to infection, bacteria, and predatory attack.

13. The real meaning of “come out of your shell”

Unlike the hermit crab, the turtle cannot come out of its shell. The bony structure is part of the turtle’s skeleton and spine, fused with its bones, and therefore the turtle cannot be separated from its shell. But when the turtle is not feeling vulnerable to attack, and to move around, they will have their neck, head, legs, and tail out of their shells.

14. Easy eaters

What do pet turtles eat anyway? Turtles can be herbivores, carnivores, or omnivores depending on their species, and even their age. Some – especially the land-dwelling tortoises – are strictly vegetarian, eating plants, while others focus on animal protein. However, most eat a bit of both.

15. At risk of extinction

According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, more than half of the world’s 360 chelonian species are threatened with extinction, with many endangered, some critically. This is due to several factors, including habitat loss (due to rising sea levels and other human activities), pollution, climate change, and global trade.

16. Cold-blooded creatures

Turtles are ectothermic – cold-blooded – meaning they cannot regulate their own body temperature. Water that drops below the temperature of 50ºF will have an effect on the turtle, making them lethargic and unable to swim. For your pet turtle, make sure they have infrared lamps so they can keep appropriately warm, and also UVB light to help them produce vitamin D.

17. Earless – but can they hear?

Turtles have no ear openings – however, this doesn’t mean they can’t hear. In fact, their internal ears can hear sounds and vibrations and are particularly sensitive underwater. Turtle fans say they can even recognize their owner’s voice.

18. Where a turtle’s rib cage is

A turtle’s magnificent shell is made up of modified ribs – meaning that the carapace (or the top of the shell) is actually its ribcage. The individual ribs are fused together from the spine to form this protective armor.

19. Touchy-feely shells

Those hard armored shells aren’t as tough as they look! The shell is made of living protein – keratin – the same as our fingernails or horses’ hooves. It is sensitive to pressure and there are nerve endings in the shell, meaning turtles can feel if you scratch them, touch them, stroke them – and they feel pain. Many owners report their turtles love a good scratch!

20. From little to large

Turtles vary enormously in size according to their type. Some tiny turtles may never grow more than 1.5in long, while the humungous leatherback turtle can reach lengths of up to 8ft 10 long and weigh 1,100lb. Most pet turtles are around 5–12in long.

21. Super swimmers

Thanks to their excellent swimming skills, turtles are the fastest-moving reptiles apart from birds. The huge leatherback turtle swims at around 20mph, racking up an impressive mileage per year, though most are not as speedy. As turtles can cover large distances with their paddle-like flippers, do not skimp on tank size, so that your pet turtle can enjoy propelling themselves through the water.

22. Dealings with dinosaurs

While turtles rubbed shoulders with the dinosaurs in the Triassic Age, they managed to survive while the dinos died out. Turtles seem to have survived the mass extinctions of the prehistoric eras, likely due to their slow metabolisms (they can go some time without food), aquatic lifestyles and protective shells.

23. Spongy shells

While a soft shell is normally a cause for concern in turtles, the bone that makes up the shell is light and spongy, which enables them to float.

24. Color vision

Most turtle species have great color vision, perceiving different wavelengths of light. Researchers have found that turtles have photoreceptor cells that enable them to see in color, but it seems that different species of turtles see the full range of colors to varying degrees. This is likely to depend on their habitat and what they need to be able to see for foraging and survival.

25. Slow walkers

The fable of the hare and the tortoise gives a good impression of the pace at which the latter moves. Tortoises are one of the slowest animals on earth, moving at less than 1mph. Contrast this with the turtle’s speed in the water – up to 20mph, making it a pretty competitive swimmer.

26. Active in the daytime

Some turtles are more active at night time, but the majority are diurnal – only laying eggs under the cover of darkness. This makes for a rewarding pet, as they tend to be out and about when we humans are. Aquatic turtles can even sleep underwater for short periods!

27. The exceptional box turtle

The beautiful box turtle is in appearance more like a tortoise, in that it is terrestrial and superficially similar. However, despite its “torty” looks, it is really a type of pond turtle, and they do enjoy swimming though they do not flourish in a watery habitat.

28. Late maturers

In the wild, turtles take decades to mature, though the range in age of sexual maturity varies widely from one species to another. The smaller species tend to reach maturity as early as two or three years, while the larger ones may reach 50 years old before being reproductive.

29. How turtles breathe

Turtles, like other reptiles, breathe air, not water. They have lungs, not gills like fish, and so even if they live mostly in the water, they need to come up to the surface to breathe now and again. However, they can hold their breath for hours at a time and have special skills to save oxygen, including slowing their metabolism.

30. A global phenomenon

Turtles can be found on every continent except Antarctica. However, they are most commonly found in south-eastern North America and South Asia, with the highest concentration in the US.

31. Special care required

Although turtles have survived mass extinction events throughout history, they do require special care to look after as pets. They are high-maintenance pets, needing the right lighting, temperature, and water filtration. They live for a long time – much longer than most domestic pets – which means that good pet turtle care is a commitment for life.

32. Illegal to release them

While there are hundreds of turtle species living in nature, in most countries it is illegal to release a pet turtle into the wild. As well as being cruel to the individual turtle in your care, they may pose threats as a non-native, potentially invasive species into a new habitat, or they may introduce unfamiliar diseases. If you cannot keep your pet turtle, seek adoption programs or reptile rescue organizations.

Looking for the best pet reptiles? We've got you covered! With the help of expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan, we've rounded up our top five picks for beginners and explained why they make such great pets.

Whilst these species are good for novices, getting a reptile is still a huge responsibility and a decision that you shouldn't take lightly. These creatures require special care and some of them need to be kept in very particular climates using the best reptile heating pads.

Dr. MacMillan says: "When choosing any pet, I urge any would-be pet owners to consider not only their set-up budget carefully but also to factor in any ongoing costs, such as electricity, food, and veterinary bills. Don’t rush into purchasing a pet unless you are sure that you can meet all their needs and care for them properly. And remember that reptiles can live for 10 years or more, so it is a long-term commitment."

What is the best reptile to get as a pet?

Corn snake

Corn snakes are one of the best pet reptiles, thanks to their docile personality and ease of handling. They're a lot smaller than other snake species, which you might find more favorable, growing to five feet in length. You'll get to spend lots of time with your new scaly friend as they're most active during the day.

When it comes to dinnertime, you'll need to feed them one mouse per week, according to Dr. MacMillan, which you can buy frozen. This diet is a lot simpler than other lizards who need to be fed more regularly.

You don't have to keep them under a UVB light, but Dr. MacMillan says it would be beneficial. However, you will need to make a temperature gradient in their tank via a heat source.

Leopard gecko

Not only is the leopard gecko beautiful to look at, but they have a gentle and calm personality that's great for children and beginners. Since they only grow to about eight inches, they're a good choice for handlers with limited space.

If you supplement their diet with vitamin D3, you won't need to install a UVB light for them - you'll just need a heating mat. They'll also appreciate the best toys for pet lizards to keep them mentally and physically stimulated. These crepuscular creatures are active at dawn and dusk, making them suitable for owners who are out during the day.

Bearded dragon

Since bearded dragons love spending time with people and don't have an aggressive nature, they make brilliant pets, according to Dr. MacMillan. They can grow up to two feet in length, so you'll want to ensure their new home is big enough.

Giving the correct bearded dragon care is super important - they need a large enclosure, a UVB light, a heat lamp and a varied diet of insects and vegetables. You'll be pleased to hear that they're not picky eaters, so you shouldn't have too much trouble with feeding them.

Before you bring one home, it's worth learning how long bearded dragons can go without heat.

Russian tortoise

Russian tortoises are friendly and curious, making them an excellent choice for families and children. They can grow up to 10 inches long and will need a large enclosure with plenty of space to explore. It's worth keeping in mind that they can live up to 50 years, so ensure you're ready for the long-term commitment before you adopt one.

Tortoises are herbivores and can eat leafy greens, hay, certain vegetables, and the occasional piece of fruit as a treat.

Blue tongue skinks 

There are lots of reasons to love blue tongue skinks — their striking cobalt tongue being one of them! As well as having some pretty cool features, they make wonderful pets and have an intelligent, laid-back personality. Their diet is a mix of animal protein, fruits, and vegetables, plus calcium and vitamin D3 supplements.

This might come as a surprise, but skinks can live for up to 20 years, so make sure you're invested for the long run. Similar to bearded dragons, these reptiles require a temperature gradient, so you'll need to invest in UVA and UVB lighting and use a thermometer to monitor their enclosure.

Do any reptiles bond with humans?

If you're wondering, 'Do any reptiles bond with humans?' the answer is no. Well, not in the same way that cats and dogs do anyway. Dr. MacMillan explains that since they've not been domesticated to the same level as our furry friends, the type of bond is very different and they're "quite basic in how they interact with us".

Their needs are focused on food, water, breeding, and survival, so you might receive some interest and enthusiasm if you're bringing them some food.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Otherwise, they are not very good at showing what they are feeling unless they are fearful or aggressive. That’s not to say a reptile won’t bond with you in their own way, and there are definitely some individuals that show more expression than others, but don’t expect any big displays of affection from them."

Do reptiles like to be touched?

Yes, some reptiles like to be touched and handled.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Pet iguanas seem to enjoy this type of human contact, and many turtles will push into your hand for more if you are petting them. Snakes also seem to appreciate being held and will wrap themselves around your arms or legs. This could also be because they are enjoying your body heat or a change of scenery from their enclosure, however. Bearded dragons are usually quite docile and like nothing better than to sit on your lap or even your shoulder.

"The more gentle handling you do, the more you and your pet will become accustomed to each other. This will all allow you to work out how your reptile likes being touched as well as providing them with some mental and physical stimulation."

Want more reptile advice? Read 32 types of reptiles you can keep as a pet.

Turtles are wonderful pets and can be great fun to observe and interact with, but they have some very specific needs that's why we've rounded these tips for taking care of pet turtles.

One amazing turtle fact is that they do require specialist care, which can mean that they are not suitable pets for everyone, and you should do your research before taking one on. Some types can live for more than half a century, meaning they are a lifetime commitment to take on.

Here are 32 tips for caring for pet turtles that you should consider before you bring one home.

32 tips for taking care of pet turtles

1. Choose the right breed

There are multiple breeds of domesticated turtle that you can buy, but you need to make sure you are choosing the right breed for your particular setup. Consider the size and age your chosen breed might reach.

2. Choose the correct tank size

When taking care of a turtle you need to ensure that their tank is the appropriate size. For every inch of the length of their shell they will need 10 gallons of water. To make sure they have the best fish tank, measure your turtle as they grow to ensure their tank remains a good size for them.

3. Maintain tank temperature

Turtles tend to need a dry area, with space and warmth for basking, as well as an aquatic area of their tank. You should have two themometers, one in the water and one in the dry area to ensure that their tank stays the correct temperature.

4. Bear in mind lifespan

Another tip for pet turtle care is to consider how long reptiles live. A turtle in captivity is likely to live 20-30 years, depending on their breed. While none of us can see the future, ensure that you have a plan in case you find yourself unable to care for your turtle in future.

5. Turtles hibernate

Many turtles hibernate from March to November, entering a period of dormancy called brumation. Less daylight hours and colder nighttime temperatures trigger this cycle, but it is a little more complex in captivity. Brumation is often important for health and reproduction but should be managed by an experienced reptile keeper or veterinarian.

6. Provide an amphibious environment

Turtles, unlike tortoises, require an amphibious environment with access to water and a dry, warm place to bask. People often mistake tortoises for turtles, but they have very different requirements so make sure you know what you're doing.

7. Buy a heating lamp for basking

Turtles need a lamp to provide them warmth and all important UVA/UVB rays. They need the UV rays for their bodies to be able to make vitamin D and utilize calcium from their diets. Ensure the heat lamp you buy is also a UV lamp so your turtle remains healthy.

8. Choose the right food

What do pet turtles eat anyway? Turtles require the correct diet, which is usually a mixture of live prey (insects, fish, bloodworms) protein-rich pet food like trout chow and vegetables. The specific diet will depend on the type of turtle you have, so make sure you do your reasearch beforehand.

9. Do not handle your turtle too often

You should avoid handling your turtle unless absolutely necessary. They sometimes carry salmonella, which is dangerous for humans, and the temperature of your hands can impact their energy levels. It can also be stressful for the turtle.

10. Wash your hands when handling your turtle

If you need to handle your turtle for any reason, make sure that you wash your hands before and afterwards. This will limit your risk of developing salmonella.

11. Avoid obesity

Turtles can develop obesity from overfeeding and a poor environment. If they get too fat, they will not be able to retract their heads into their shells and their legs may not bear their weight, meaning that they will get stuck out of water.

12. Be careful of salmonella

As mentioned above, turtles can carry salmonella. With this in mind, be extra careful with hand hygiene when handling your turtle and cleaning their environment. It is also best to keep children clear of the turtle and its tank.

13. Regularly change water

Turtles need a full water change every four weeks, with a 25% change weekly or 50% change every fortnight.

14. Turtles need Ultraviolet

Rather than simply a heat lamp, ensure you purchase a basking lamp that provides your turtle with UVA/B to ensure that they do not get a vitamin D deficiency.

15. Consider your water filters

Your water filter will need to be the right size for the tank you have chosen. Turtles poop a lot, so the filter needs to be able to manage 2-3x more than the capacity of the tank.

16. Add plants to their enclosure

Plants, fake or real, provide enrichment and interest to your turtle's enclosure. Their enclosure should be as close to the turtle's natural environment as possible. If you choose fake plants, ensure that you clean them regularly.

17. Be aware that some turtles climb

It may seem odd for an aquatic animal to be able to climb, but some species of turtle can and do. Be aware of this when setting up their enclosure.

18. Turtles and tortoises are different animals

While this may seem obvious, people often confuse turtles and tortoises are different animals with different needs.

19. Consider the depth of the water

Turtles need the water in their tank to be of an appropriate depth for the turtle to fully submerge and swim without getting stuck. This is generally two times the length of their shell.

20. You can encourage wild turtle habitat in suitable areas

If you live in an area where turtles are native, you can build a suitable habitat and encourage wild turtles to live in it. Many people will build ponds to attract turtles, which can help with insect control and provide valuable habitat for wild animals.

21. Male turtles fight

If you have multiple male turtles in a single tank they will likely fight when they reach sexual maturity. They compete for females and territory, making them unsuitable tank mates.

22. Females may or may not fight

Female turtles are less likely than males to fight when sharing a tank, but sometimes will if they feel their resources are threatened.

23. Check the temperature of the tank regularly

We mentioned before that you will need two thermometers: one for the dry area, and one for the water. Monitor these thermometers at the same time every day to make sure you spot any changes in temperature that might harm your turtle.

24. Condition water before adding it to the tank

Turtles will not do well living in water straight from a tap: you need to condition it beforehand to remove chlorine and chloramine. You will also need to ensure the water you are adding to the tank is the same temperature as the water already in there.

25. Cuttlebones provide calcium

Turtles need a suitable amount of calcium in their diet to maintain their shells and skeletons. Cuttlebones offer a great way to supplement your turtle's diet with extra calcium, but you should also feed them vertebrate insects and fish to meet this need.

26. Test the water quality regularly

For the health of your turtle, you will need to test the water quality regularly. Testing kits can be purchased that check pH and levels of ammonia and nitrites. You will also want to monitor water hardness.

27. Rocks should be larger than your turtles head

Turtles aren't always the smartest, so ensure any rocks in their enclosure are larger than the size of their head so they are not mistaken for food.

28. Choose appropriate water plants

Ensure that the plants you put in your turtle's enclosure are suitable: that they don't poison the water and are suitable for the turtle to eat. They can improve water quality and provide forage for your turtle to graze on. They can also be fun places for your shell-ed friend to hide.

29. Clean the tank at least monthly

While water changes are important, they don't clean the physical structures in the tank. You should go in and clean everything, including filters, at least monthly to prevent sickness in your turtles.

30. Some turtles enjoy a scrub

Some turtles may get algae build-up on their shell and require cleaning or scrubbing with a toothbrush or similar. They don't strictly need this level of maintenance, as their shells dry out and the algae will shed when they bask, but many enjoy the sensation.

31. Young turtles have different dietary requirements to mature turtles

Growing turtles need a lot more protein than adults and often also require more vitamins and minerals. Bear in mind the age of your turtle when feeding.

32. Be aware of the possibility of an overgrown beak

Turtle beaks should be checked by a vet periodically to ensure they are the right length to allow the turtle to eat and move normally. They should wear down naturally but sometimes need manual trimming.

These quick tips for taking care of bearded dragons will help you keep your loveable reptile happy and healthy.

And better yet, they can be actioned in minutes. From providing the best toys for lizards, like a lounger or step ledge, to filling their diet with top-quality food.

That said, it’s worth noting that bearded dragon care can be quite specific, so you'll need to get the basics right. For example, they will need a varied diet and enough vitamins to help them thrive. Being cold-blooded and native to Australia, their environment needs to be kept at the right temperature. Care for your beautiful scale-skinned friend will also vary depending on the type of bearded dragon you have and their age.

To help you take even better care of your beardie, we’ve compiled a list of quick tips for taking care of bearded dragons.

32 quick tips for taking care of a bearded dragon

1. Invest in a decent vivarium

Simple, yet oh-so effective, investing in a decent, hardwearing, and made-to-last vivarium is a quickfire way to keep your beardie happy. In today’s market, you can choose between a plastic one or a wooden option.

2. Give them enough darkness

One interesting fact about bearded dragons is that they are diurnal, which means they are most active during the day and they sleep at night. To make sure they get a good night's kip, they will need to be in complete darkness for at least 8-12 hours.

3. A varied diet

It makes sense: humans need a varied diet to thrive — and so does your lizard. For the most part, brown crickets are a favorite for beardies as they are easy to catch and digest. For a treat, they’re also partial to mealworms or cockroaches. Serve these up alongside lots of leafy greens, like kale and watercress, and colorful veg, like peppers, and your bearded dragon’s stomach (and heart) will be full!

4. Vitamins

Wondering how long bearded dragons live? If carefully looked after, they can live life by your side anywhere between eight to 12 years. And ensuring they have a well-balanced diet full of nutrients is key to helping them thrive.

In an ideal world, your bearded dragon would get most of its vitamins and minerals from the food they eat. However, to ensure they are getting all the nutrients they need, you can add some vitamin powders to their meals to help supplement their diet.

5. Enough space

According to the RSPCA, the minimum size vivarium for one adult dragon is 120cm long by 60cm high and 60 cm wide. But if space allows, you may wish to invest in a bigger one. That’s because bearded dragons might start small, but they grow quickly.

6. Give them their own space

Talking of space — bearded dragons are solitary creatures and they like to have a lot of space to move around. It is therefore not generally recommended to keep more than one bearded dragon in a vivarium.

7. A clean cage

We all love a clean space to eat, sleep and repeat. And beardies are no different. Therefore, you should be removing uneaten food, refreshing drinking water, and scooping up any droppings from their vivarium daily.

8. Heat

If you're wondering, 'How long can bearded dragons go without heat?' allow us to enlighten you. Bearded dragons can only go 24 hours without heat. But this is only possible if the temperature stays at around 65F.

9. Let them lick you

Has your bearded dragon ever licked you? Well, firstly don’t panic! And secondly, know this: it’s your pet pal’s own way of getting to know you, by collecting information about your scent, taste, and temperature. Essentially, it can help them recognize you.

10. Bathe them

Have you noticed your bearded dragon is looking a bit scruffy? Then it might be time to give them a soak. While beardies won’t need bathing every day, depending on your pet pal, you may need to bathe them once or twice a week. Not only will this help them stay clean, but it can help with hydration too.

11. Don’t overstimulate them

While beardies need a bit of upkeep to keep their environment stable, they won’t need lots (and lots) of handling. Instead, create a calm and quiet environment and try to avoid getting them out of their safe space too often.

12. Provide them with UVB light

This point is essential. To ensure your bearded dragon remains healthy, you should provide a UVB tube light at 10-12% on the hotter side of the vivarium. Failure to do so, your much-loved reptile could develop metabolic bone disease which could significantly shorten their lifespan.

13. Humidity levels

As you might have been able to tell by now, beardies need quite specific conditions to thrive in. According to the RSPCA, bearded dragons need low humidity levels to prevent breathing problems or skin troubles. To help stay on top of this, you should use a hygrometer which will help measure the humidity at the cool end. Therefore, humidity levels should be around 30 to 40%.

14. Substrate

A substrate is what you choose to put on the floor of your vivarium. In the wild, bearded lizards can be found basking in deserts and subtropical woodlands. Therefore, in captivity, you’ll need to replicate their natural environment to help encourage natural behaviors, like digging. A reptile-safe sand substrate or sand/soil mix is your best bet.

15. Treat them (very rarely) with fruit

So we know bearded dragons are omnivorous, but did you know these reptiles will devour fruit? Certain fruits, for bearded dragons, can be safe to eat but moderation is key. Naturally high in sugar, fruit should only be given as a real treat sparingly.

16. Good ventilation

If you do find that the humidity in your beardies’ vivarium is too high, their home will need more ventilation. To do this, you could add additional vents. Or use fans to reduce high humidity levels. You could also place the water bowl at the cool end of the tank.

17. Enrichment

Enrichment for bearded dragons is a must when it comes to keeping these scaly friends happy and healthy. Whether it’s investing in some crinkle balls, branches for climbing, or a tunnel. But just remember — don’t go overboard. Bearded dragons like to have space. And if you fill their vivarium with too much enrichment, it may have the opposite effect.

18. Time with you

As we touched on, these pet pals are quite solitary creatures. However, that’s not to say they don’t enjoy spending time in your company. Around 10 to 15 minutes is enough time for your beardie to spend outside its vivarium. Too much longer and your reptile could see its core temperature drop.

19. Handle with care

All pets should be handled with the utmost care — and your bearded dragon is no different. To do so, gently scoop your pet pal up with two hands, making sure their body and all four legs are supported. If your lizard starts to back away, take this as a sign that they don’t wish to be touched right now.

20. Make sure they are shedding

Shedding is a completely normal part of a reptile’s life, as it’s part of their growth. More formally known as ecdysis, an adult bearded dragon might typically shed every few months. If you’re the proud owner of a baby beardie, you can expect them to shed every 20 to 30 days. Once you spot them shedding, misting them can help. So can giving them a warm bath. Just never pull the dead skin off yourself!

21. Keep an eye on them

After getting to know your beardie, you’ll be more aware of what’s ‘normal’ for them and what’s not. So do keep an eye on them. For example, you might notice abnormal droppings. Or perhaps you’ve noticed their eyes are sunken. Or that there is rapid weight loss. If you have any concerns, contact your vet straight away.

22. Let brumation take place

According to the RSPCA, during the cooler seasons, bearded dragons have a tendency to sleep more, eat less, and generally slow down. Some people like to think of this like a type of hibernation, which you might expect from the likes of butterflies and bats. But for lizards, this behavior is called brumation.

23. Book them in with the vets annually

Ideally, your beardie should be taking trips to the vet a minimum of once a year and this should take place before brumation occurs. This way, your vet can check up on your scaly friend’s weight, feces, eyes, and overall well-being.

24. Transport them safely

Along with picking your bearded dragon up with two hands, while giving all four of their feet enough support, when taking your beardie to the vets you’ll need to ensure they’re kept warm and protected.

25. Hiding area

All types of reptiles you can keep as pets will need some sort of hiding area. Providing them with a sense of protection and safety, a hiding spot can also help bearded dragons cool down if they get too hot.

26. Places to climb

Another way to help your bearded dragon feel right at home? By adding some sturdy branches to their space so they can climb to their heart’s content. Another type of enrichment idea for bearded dragons, beardies are natural climbers so they will want to mimic the mannerisms they’d do in the wild.

27. Moss

Another form of enrichment, adding moss to your pet pal’s vivarium can help to maintain the right levels of humidity and replicate their natural climate.

28. Add plants

We bring you another source of enrichment for your beloved beardie — live plants. Not only will this help add some greenery to their space but bearded dragons are partial to snacking on them too. They love the popular indoor succulent echeveria, Haworthia, and even Jade plant.

29. Nail care

Bearded dragons like to have their nails looked after as much as the next person. In some cases, your bearded dragon might have enough abrasive materials in its vivarium, like climbing branches, rocks, and natural sand substrate, to keep their nails at a manageable length. But if that’s not the case, you should trim the tips of their nails very carefully.

30. Provide a hot and cool spaces

Bearded dragons are cold-blooded. This means they’re unable to control their own body temperature. To help them do so, they’ll require external heat sources. Therefore, a UV tube light will be required at 10-12% on the hotter side of the vivarium. While the cooler part of their enclosure is 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit.

31. Provide enough fresh water

You’ll know if your bearded dragon is suffering from dehydration. Along with having loose, saggy, and wrinkly skin, they may lose their appetite, feel weak, and have sunken eyes. To avoid this from happening, the general consensus is that bearded dragons should drink roughly 10mL/pound of body weight.

32. Choose a good location where to put them

While most beardies won’t mind spending time on your lap or being petted, they will spend the majority of their time in their vivarium. Which is why it’s important to get the location of their home right. Your best bet is somewhere safe and quiet like a corner.

For more advice on looking after your reptile read a guide on bearded dragon care.

Did you know, there are a number of surprising things hamsters can eat? It’s no secret that pocket pals, like hamsters, love to hoard food. From seeds stuffed in their cheek pouches to grains stored around their cage.

But, it’s not just certain seeds and grains that hamsters can eat. For example, did you know that hamsters are actually omnivorous? This means they can eat both plant and animal-based foods.

Of course, there are many different hamster breeds so all hamsters will have different likes and dislikes. But if you're looking to pack some more protein in their diet, or just make their mealtime more exciting, there's a whole list of surprising things hamsters can eat.

32 surprising things hamsters can eat

1. Hard-boiled egg

Packed with protein, a hard-boiled egg isn’t just for humans to enjoy. Hamsters love them too and if given as an occasional treat, it can be a great way to get more all-important protein into their diet.

Just note that you’ll need to make sure the egg is cooked all the way through — so there’s no runniness there at all.

2. Chicken

You might not like your chicken breast plain, but hamsters do when eaten occasionally. Primarily herbivores, hamsters are partial to a strip of chicken.

This protein-packed meat can be given as a treat and will pack their meals with essential vitamins and minerals. Meaning? They’ll have a well-rounded diet and be one happy hamster.

3. Turkey

The same goes for turkey. This white meat is another great source of protein for both humans and their hamster friends and is rich in vitamin B and low in fat.

Again, feed sparingly and always (always!) cook turkey all the way through, and don’t use any oil or seasonings.

4. Cereal

Who isn’t partial to cereal? Well, it seems that hamsters now join this list. These cute little pets love getting their teeth stuck into whole-grain cereals as a snack.

A very (very) small portion should do it — we’re talking a cluster or two — and avoid giving them any cereal that has added sugar.

5. Whole wheat crackers

Another type of crunchy food your little chewer will love? Crackers. If you intend to feed your hamsters crackers, just make sure they are of the whole wheat kind.

If given to them in small amounts, these are perfectly fine to weave into their diet every now and then.

6. Cranberries

It turns out these little pocket pets have something in common with guinea pigs, birds, and bearded dragons — they all love snacking on cranberries.

While fresh cranberries, in moderation, won’t do any harm to hamsters, vets recommend giving cranberry juice a swerve. Cranberries contain fiber and vitamin C. However, they are also packed with sugar, so should only be given to pets sparingly.

7. Cucumber

Cucumbers are another veggie to add to your hamster’s food list. Packed with essential vitamins and minerals, cucumbers are a super hydrating treat for your pocket pet.

If you do decide to add this green veg to their diet, remember to wash it thoroughly, slice thinly, and introduce it slowly — around one or two times a week.

8. Zucchini

Otherwise known as the humble courgette in the UK, word on the street is that hamsters are big fans of zucchini. Cut this fresh veg up super small, skin included, and your furry friend will be happy.

9. Chickpeas

A hamster’s taste buds are well-established. So much so that some hamsters can eat the likes of legumes, like chickpeas. Chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans, are extremely high in protein and dietary fiber and can be fed to your hamster as a treat.

10. Bell pepper

Got some sweet bell peppers left over in your fridge? Instead of letting them go to waste, why not add these veggies, packed with vitamin C, antioxidants, and other nutrients, into your hamster’s diet? Of course, moderation is key, but your four-legged friend might just enjoy the color and crunch of these additions.

11. Apple

As long as they’re peeled, de-seeded, and chopped into bite-sized pieces, so your little rodent can fit inside its mouth safely, hamsters can eat apples in very small amounts. Just remember not to go overboard. You don’t want to upset their stomach!

12. Basil

It’s not just some fruits that hamsters are a fan of — they love some herbs, like, basil too. The green herb has anti-inflammatory properties and is packed with vitamins A and C. So not only will adding basil introduce some flavor and variety into your little fur friend's diet, but it will also support their immune system.

13. Kale

Hamsters are omnivores at heart. So if given the chance, they’ll love nothing more than tucking into the leafy green veg. Feeding your hamster green vegetables like kale is a great way of keeping them happy and healthy.

And the great thing about this leafy green is that it will do just that. High in fiber, calcium, and vitamin C, kale is delicious and nutritious even for hamsters.

14. Mealworms

Looking for new ways on how to bond with your hamster? Feed them food they love, like mealworms. Of course, mealworms might not be just something you have lying around. However, most reputable pet stores will sell dried mealworms by the dozen. In the wild, this is something hamsters might forage for. And for good reason: they’re packed with protein.

15. Cauliflower

Raw cauliflower is another surefire way to your hamster’s heart. Most fur friends will gobble up these treats in minutes. But there are a few things to remember: make all florets bite-size and only feed them a small amount. These loveable rodents are only small, after all!

16. Spinach

There’s no denying hamsters have wide and varied taste buds. Along with fresh fruit, they’re also partial to another leafy green veg, like spinach. Be sure to wash this veg before you feed it to them raw and without repeating what has come before: they only need a little!

17. Strawberries

Strawberries are another type of fruit that your four-legged fur friend will be happy to munch their way through. However, due to their high sugar content, these sweet red berries should only be given as a treat.

18. Cheese

Wondering if you can feed cheese to your hamster? Well, wonder no more! Most hamsters will love the taste of cheese but if you plan on giving this to them, it needs to be in moderation. High in fat and sodium, cheese wouldn’t be the healthiest of treats. But that said, if you do intend to do so, low-fat cottage cheese or mozzarella are your best bets.

19. Seedless grapes

In the great outdoors, hamsters eat a manner of seeds. But not every seed is equal. While grapes are safe for your pocket pal to eat, the fruit’s pit won't be. So if you're going to feed them this fruit, opt for grapes that are seedless.

20. Crickets

Another type of insect these omnivores will have no trouble eating? Crickets. Rich in vitamins A, C, D, E, and K, these treats are protein-packed, and high in iron, magnesium, and calcium. So can help your hamster get a well-balanced diet.

21. Pumpkin seeds

When added to their diet in moderation, your little chewer will happily pop these seeds into their cheek pouch for safekeeping or gobble them down straight away. Again, small portions are best because these seeds are high in fat and low in other nutrients. But that’s not to say they can’t be given as a little treat.

22. Whole grain bread

Another food you might not have thought hamsters can eat is whole-grain bread. Now, while this type of bread can technically be eaten by your pocket pal, that’s not to say it’s something they should be eating day in, day out, or week in, week out. A little bit is fine as a treat.

23. Raspberries

Again, within reason, small amounts of raspberries will go down a treat for your little fur friend. Containing antioxidants like vitamin C and fiber, in small amounts, these soft fruits will help to contribute to a healthy diet.

24. Raisins

Considering hamsters can eat grapes, it probably comes as no surprise that these serial snackers can also eat raisins. Containing fiber and antioxidants, if given sparingly, raisins are OK for your hamster.

25. Sweetcorn

If you're keen on feeding your pocket pal vegetables, you might be wondering whether hamsters can eat corn? Rich in folate, hamsters will love the taste and crunch of sweetcorn kernels.

26. Bananas

Another fruit that is bound to go down a treat is bananas. However, they won’t be able to survive on a portion of bananas alone. This should only be given sparingly due to their high natural sugar content.

27. Cantaloupe

Yes, hamsters can eat cantaloupe. But you should remove the rind before feeding it to them. Containing vitamin A, B6, vitamin C, and fiber, Cantaloupe melons are only suitable for hamsters when given in moderation.

28. Mango

As you may have already guessed, mangoes are high in natural sugar content. So while it’s perfectly safe for your hamsters to eat this stoned fruit as a treat, it will need to be given sparingly and they’ll still need other foods like their pelleted diet.

29. Blueberries

If given in moderation, hamsters will love the fruity bursts of goodness blueberries can bring. So keep the quantities low and cut up the fruit into manageable chunks so your hamster can hold it and feed themselves easily.

30. Carrot

These crunchy, orange veggies are high in vitamin A, which can help with eye health. Just remember to cut these into small bite-sized options and feed sparingly because they might be a vegetable but they still contain sugar.

31. Cabbage

Another green vegetable joins our list! When washed thoroughly and thinly shredded cabbage offers up a nutritious way for your fur friend to pack their diet full of nutrients like vitamin C and fiber.

32. Broccoli

The green counterpart to cauliflower, very small florets of broccoli are suitable to give to your hamster. As is the case with all fruit and veg, you’ll need to wash it before placing it in your hamster’s food bowl and give it to them raw.

For more advice on looking after hamsters, check out how to help a stressed hamster and how to play with a hamster. Or for something less serious, we’ve also got some funny hamster facts for you to enjoy

As the weather gets colder, you might be wondering how to keep a rabbit warm in the winter. That's why we've called in vet Dr. MacMillan to share her expert advice and answer your important questions like, 'How cold is too cold for a rabbit?'

There are lots of ways that you can keep your bunny warm, like putting extra insulation in the best outdoor rabbit hutch and making sure that no drafts can get in. If your rabbit gets too cold, it can lead to hypothermia, frostbite, or even death, so it's essential you take all the steps listed below.

You might be curious how wild rabbits do so well in frosty climates, and Dr. MacMillan explains that it's because they're better adapted. She says: "Wild rabbits are better adapted to very low temperatures and live in groups that can snuggle up to each other in small cozy burrows."

How do I keep my rabbit warm in the winter?

Here are her top tips for keeping your rabbit warm in the winter:

1. Give them a warm place to rest
To keep your bunny toasty when they're sleeping, make sure you provide them with more nesting materials, like the best bedding for rabbits. You could also put a fleecy cover over a heat pad (like this one on Amazon), but just make sure it's chew-proof like the one we recommend below.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "You could also line the area with newspaper which will provide extra insulation. [This will also] help to soak up any spills or moisture from toileting which might make things cold and damp. Rabbits are best kept in pairs or groups, and you will find that they can stay warm by snuggling with their companions for extra body heat. A single rabbit is more susceptible to drops in temperature."

2. Ensure their home and exercise area is in good repair
Have a look around for damp patches that can cause mold, ammonia build-up, and respiratory issues for your bunny. You'll also need to lift their living quarters off the ground to prevent them from becoming rotten or damp and check for any cracks to stop drafts.

The roofing needs to be watertight to keep them dry and you should insulate their home with materials like blankets and old carpets. You can also put a waterproof cover or tarpaulin over the top.

Dr. MacMillan adds: "Just ensure that they still get some ventilation through any wire mesh areas, these could be covered with a loose-fitting transparent sheet of plastic."

3. Move them indoors if you need to
Be prepared to move your rabbit indoors if the weather gets too cold – especially if it's snowy or icy! If you can't bring them into your home, you could put them in an unused garage or a large shed, but they'll need a window for some natural light and one of the best indoor rabbit hutch setups.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Remember that if this space is unheated then their enclosure will still need the extra insulation and bedding that was advised earlier."

4. Check their water and food
This step doesn't technically keep them warm, but it's something that should definitely be on your checklist! In the winter, water bowls and bottles can freeze up so you'll want to check them daily to ensure they have access to fresh water.

Dr. MacMillan says: "Make sure that your rabbits get enough greens during the winter, alongside ad-lib hay. They won’t be able to forage as easily for dandelions and grass when it is cold and frosty."

Here's some more expert advice on what to feed a rabbit and a guide to the best hay for rabbits.

What temperature is too cold for rabbits?

You should keep your rabbit's home between 50-68° F (10-20°C). According to Dr. MacMillan, this is the temperature that most bunnies prefer to live in, so they'll be happy if it's in this range.

How do I know if my bunny is warm enough?

Your rabbit will display all their normal behaviors if they warm enough, like playing, eating and producing lots of feces. However, if you're still concerned, Dr. MacMillan suggests measuring their environment's temperature with a thermometer.

She adds: "Rabbits don’t hibernate, so if yours seem quiet, limp, or very sleepy then take them to a vet immediately."

Found this helpful? We also have a guide with tips from a vet on housing rabbits outdoors.

How long can bearded dragons go without heat? Since reptiles are cold-blooded animals, they rely on external sources to regulate their body temperature, like the sun or a heat lamp.

If you live with one of these beautiful creatures, you'll need to provide them with the correct bearded dragon care to ensure they live a happy and healthy life. Keeping their vivarium at the correct temperature is one of the most important things you can do — and there can be fatal consequences if you don't.

However, if you find yourself in the middle of a power cut, you might not have access to their lamps and be wondering what to do. Below, expert vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan has answered all of your questions, like how long bearded dragons can survive without heat and how to keep them warm without a lamp. She's also revealed the best temperature to keep them at and why they need heat.

How long can a bearded dragon live without heat?

Bearded dragons can live up to 24 hours without heat, explains Dr. MacMillan. However, this is only possible if the temperature stays at around 65F.

She says: "If your bearded dragon becomes too cold, they will become inactive. Their digestion will slow down leading to dangerous bacterial overgrowth and they may become unresponsive."

How can I keep my bearded dragon warm without a heat lamp?

If you find yourself in a power cut and your bearded dragon's enclosure drops below 75F, you need to find other ways to keep them warm. Dr. MacMillan recommends the following ideas:

• Using heat packs
• Using hand warmers
• Putting hot water bottles near your lizard (cover the bottles and don't let them have direct contact)
• Wrapping them in a blanket and holding them close to you
• Putting them in the car with the heat turned on

To avoid problems with your heat lamp, make sure you always have a spare bulb on hand. However, if you do find yourself in trouble, Dr. MacMillan says: "Heat pads, radiant heat panels, and heat cables are all alternatives to heat lamps and it may be worth using one of these as a supplemental heat source in your enclosure, or as a backup if an issue with your heat lamp occurs."

Why do bearded dragons need heat?

Cold-blooded animals require external heat sources to warm up their bodies, explains Dr. MacMillan. Bearded dragons need to be basked (A.K.A exposed to heat and light) to help with digestion, metabolism, and blood circulation.

She says: "Blood delivers oxygen and nutrients to cells and takes away waste products. Heat and light are also needed to simulate a bearded dragon's natural environment. In the wild, they spend significant amounts of time basking in the sun, and they must be able to replicate this in captivity."

What temperature is best for bearded dragons?

If you've got an adult bearded dragon (18 months+), their basking area should be 90-93F, and the cooler area should be 80-90F. Younger dragons (3-17 months) burn more energy as they're still growing, so they'll need a slightly warmer climate of 95-105F for the basking area and 80-90F for the cooler area.

Dr. MacMillan warns that if the temperature gets too high or low, this can be fatal for your pet, so you should continuously monitor it with a thermostat.

She says: "In addition to this, a thermometer in the basking area and another in the cooler part of the enclosure is recommended to ensure the temperature gradient is correct. Check these regularly.

"You should factor in a heat drop overnight, to replicate what would happen in the bearded dragons' natural environment. As long as the temperature does not go below 59F, your lizard will be fine, as long as they can heat up again in the morning. If the temperature in your home is likely to drop below this then you will need to provide supplemental heating overnight, as long as it doesn’t emit any light."

For more bearded dragon advice, read: Enrichment for bearded dragons and best pet reptiles.

How long do bearded dragons live is something, we must admit we didn't know the answer to. So we spoke to vet, Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out!

If you are an experienced dragon owner then you probably already know that larger dragons tend to have a longer lifespan than smaller ones. If you have a smaller dragon or are considering welcoming one into your home, then don't worry. There are plenty of things you can do to help your bearded dragon live a long and happy life.

Things like creating a consistent routine, feeding a varied diet, and providing lots of love and attention are some of the most important things you can do when it comes to bearded dragon care. But how long do they actually live? Let's find out.

How long do bearded dragons live?

So how long do bearded dragons live? Dr. Rebecca MacMillan weighs in, "The average lifespan of bearded dragons is eight to 12 years, though some may live less than this and others may live a bit longer!"

So if you're looking for a companion that will be around for a while, bearded dragons are a good choice. Regular vet visits, dietary supplements, and purchasing your pet from a reputable reptile breeder in the first place will all help your pet to stay as healthy as possible, which will enhance their overall quality of life.

Are bearded dragons easy to keep alive?

Bearded dragons originate from Australia, so it's important to try and replicate these living conditions as best as possible in terms of lighting, temperature, and even humidity settings.

Dr. MacMillan says, "Using the correct substrate in their enclosure is also crucial in keeping your bearded dragon healthy. Reptile carpets, astroturf, ceramic tiles, rubber shelf liners, and alfalfa pellets are all safe options. I never recommend using sand as it could cause intestinal blockages if ingested.."

What are the easiest types of bearded dragons to care for?

"The Central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps), Western bearded dragon (Pogona minor), and Eastern bearded dragon (Pogona barbata) can all make good pets with the right care. Other types of bearded dragons tend to be rarer and can have more demanding needs. They may not be suitable unless you are an experienced reptile keeper," says MacMillan.

Top tips for caring for your bearded dragon

When it comes to enrichment for bearded dragons, there are a few things you can do to help your reptile friend thrive. Consider their living environment and make it equipped with things to help support their development.

Dr. MacMillan says, "Hides, platforms, rocks, and branches in your pet’s enclosure will help your lizard to replicate natural behaviors which are good for their health and mental wellbeing. You could also consider a hammock for them and some safe plants, to add interest to their home."

Dr. MacMillan also offered some advice is you have a female bearded dragon and that was if you'd like her to live longer than not to breed her. "Breeding can negatively impact her lifespan," she says.

If you liked this feature, check out 32 best exotic pets anyone can own.

Healthy pet rabbits can live for 10–12 years, but sadly many bunnies have a much shorter lifespan due to disease. They thrive on an appropriate, high-fiber diet, as well as a clean living area, a low-stress environment, and plenty of space to exercise. Vaccinations against common fatal illnesses are essential.

Because rabbits are prey animals, they often won’t show symptoms even of serious disease until it is too late, so it‘s worth having a clue what to look out for. This means you can always be alert to the smallest of signs that may indicate something’s amiss, know what’s normal for your bunny, and nip problems in the bud. We also recommend investing in some of the best pet insurance to help offset costs in the event you need to take your bunny to the vet.

Certain illnesses are particularly common in pet rabbits – some are genetic, others contagious; they may be bacterial, viral, parasitic, or due to the environment. Let’s take a look so we can pick up the earliest signals and prompt treatment.

32 common illnesses rabbits can get

1. Malocclusion

Overgrown teeth – often a result of malocclusion – are a common problem in rabbits. Their teeth never stop growing, by 2–3mm every week, and if they are not worn down naturally by chewing and gnawing, this can cause major issues. It is one of the most likely reasons your rabbit will need to see the vet. Dental disease can cause serious pain as the teeth grow into the opposing lips, ulcers can form, and the list goes on. They can suffer anorexia and it can even be fatal if they are unable to chew and swallow.

While overgrown teeth per se are not a disease, malocclusion is typically inherited – when the upper and lower teeth don’t meet properly and therefore don’t wear down correctly, causing overgrowth. Malocclusion can also occur due to a poor diet or a traumatic injury to the mouth.

2. Snuffles

Snuffles is a bacterial upper respiratory infection when the mucous membranes of the air passages and lungs become inflamed. Look out for a watery discharge from the nose and eyes, which may become pus-like. You’ll notice the rabbit coughing and sneezing like anyone with a cold – and it is similarly infectious. Most rabbits should make a full recovery with treatment, but it can take months.

3. Hairballs

A non-infectious disorder that comes about by the rabbit self-grooming. Usually, the hair they inevitably swallow will pass through the digestive tract, but if they eat a lot – or it builds up in the stomach – it will cause a blockage or hairball. If it truly blocks the gastrointestinal tract, emergency surgery is required to remove it. A high-fiber diet is essential as well as one or two of the best rabbit toys to gnaw on, to prevent excessive hair chewing.

4. Uterine tumors

The most common tumor in rabbits is uterine adenocarcinoma, which is a malignant uterine tumor. Because they are so prevalent, vets tend to recommend spaying rabbits by six months old, to prevent these tumors from developing in the stomach and spreading to other organs.

5. Myxomatosis

This deadly disease is caused by a type of pox virus, the myxoma virus, which can be transmitted by insects and ticks. It results in sores on the skin, which are benign tumors made up of mucus and a gelatinous material. The first symptom is inflammation of the eye area, which will progressively be accompanied by a milky discharge.

The rabbit will become lethargic, febrile, and lose its appetite as all the facial and genital features swell up. Death can follow within 48 hours and the maximum life expectancy after the onset of symptoms is a fortnight, so euthanasia is usually suggested.

6. Calicivirus

Annual vaccinations are recommended to prevent your pet rabbit from contracting this serious disease, which is highly infectious and contagious. It is also known as rabbit hemorrhagic disease (RHDV2), and infection results in fever, liver damage, and intestinal inflammation followed by a blood clotting disorder, and multi-organ hemorrhage. Rabbits typically do not show many symptoms and die within 24 hours of the fever occurring. It has a 60–90% fatality rate.

7. Flystrike

Flystrike – officially termed myiasis – is a serious and potentially deadly condition. It occurs when flies lay their eggs on the rabbit – typically on dirty or injured skin – which rapidly hatch into maggots, which burrow down to feed on the tissues. This is intensely traumatic and painful; it may cause the rabbit to scream. The maggots also release toxins which can cause shock.

Any sign of maggots on your rabbit is an emergency. The best plan is never to let it happen in the first place. Good hygiene is essential, both in the rabbit’s living area and on the animal itself.

8. Wet dewlap

Also known as moist dermatitis, this affects the heavy fold of skin on the front of female rabbits. When some rabbits drink, they can spill water onto this dewlap, which becomes soggy and inflamed. It can deteriorate into an infection – and even an invitation for flies to lay eggs, causing flystrike.

9. GI stasis

GI (gastrointestinal) stasis is when the passage of food through the gut slows down, which makes gas-producing bacteria multiply, causing bloating, constipation, discomfort, and loss of appetite. While not as much of an emergency as a hairball blocking the gut, it can still be life-threatening if left untreated to get the GI tract moving again.

10. Mites

There are several types of mites that are common in rabbits: ear mites, fur mites, and mange mites.

Ear mites are parasites irritating the lining of the ear, which can cause infection and related problems such as head tilt. If you spot a crusty inner ear with tiny bugs, it’s definitely time to take action.

Fur mites live on the skin, and do not burrow down into the tissue. They look more like dandruff and do not tend to cause more than mild irritation unless the rabbit is already compromised. This can be treated with a simple permethrin powder.

Mange mites, which burrow into the skin and lay eggs causing sarcoptic mange (pictured), are rare in rabbits, however, they cause severe itchiness and are difficult to eradicate.

11. Encephalitozoonosis

A common infection is caused by parasites which is common in rabbits. It results in kidney disease as well as affecting the brain, provoking seizures, tremors, and other neurological symptoms. If treated promptly it can be cured, but once the clinical signs are severe it can be fatal.

It spreads via infected urine, or to the fetus from the mother in the womb. Good hygiene is key for prevention.

12. Coccidiosis

A common parasitic disease, which has two forms: hepatic (liver) and intestinal coccidiosis. Both illnesses are transmitted by water or food contaminated with the Eimeria protozoa. The hepatic version is usually mild, affecting young rabbits. They typically have no appetite and fail to gain weight. Occasionally it can be fatal.

Intestinal coccidiosis is also a mild disease, often with no clinical symptoms. Good hygiene is essential for keeping the infection at bay.

13. Enterotoxemia

This severe diarrhea develops very quickly, typically in young rabbits up to eight weeks old, but can affect older ones less commonly. Sadly, it normally ends fatally within a couple of days. A rabbit can go from seemingly healthy to dead overnight. It is caused by bacteria, but not that much is known about how it spreads, although it is believed that the disease is less prevalent when rabbits are fed high-fiber diets.

14. Tyzzer disease

A bacterial disease causing a lot of watery diarrhea. It usually results in death within three days, with nine out of 10 infected rabbits likely to succumb, and those that survive are compromised. The infection spreads via contaminated food or droppings, and poor hygiene and stress are considered contributing factors.

15. Colibacillosis

There are two types of colibacillosis, which is a bacterial disease – E coli – causing diarrhea. Infected baby rabbits up to two weeks old develop yellowish diarrhea, which is nearly always fatal. Weaned rabbits – aged four to six weeks old – tend to develop watery diarrhea. Infected bunnies usually die within five to 14 days, and those that do survive are likely to be stunted.

16. Proliferative enteropathy

Recently weaned rabbits showing signs of diarrhea, depression, and dehydration may be suffering from an infection caused by the Lawsonia intracellularis bacterium, which causes a disease called proliferative enteropathy – proliferative meaning increasing; enteropathy being an intestinal disease. However, unlike many bacteria-causing diarrhea diseases, this one is not usually fatal unless the rabbit’s immune system is already compromised.

17. Mucoid enteritis

This disease causes intestinal inflammation with excess mucus, which is present in the rabbit’s resulting diarrhea. The exact cause is not known but it is believed that stress, dietary changes, insufficient fiber, and other intestinal problems are factors. If you spot slippery diarrhea or mucus-covered droppings, a bloated stomach, and general sickness in your rabbit, consult your vet immediately as this can be fatal.

18. Rotavirus

This virus is usually caused by rabbits eating infected droppings and causes diarrhea. Rotavirus alone is not typically a fatal disease but it is often accompanied by other intestinal illnesses which combine to be deadly.

19. Heat stroke

Rabbits – particularly if pregnant – cannot deal well with temperatures once they climb over 80ºF, especially if their living areas are poorly ventilated. Always provide plenty of shade, fresh air, and free access to cool water. If it does get too hot outside, bring the rabbit indoors to keep cool or they may have a heart attack.

You can spot the signs – hot bunnies will stretch out to maximize their surface area and breathe fast. Gently spray them with cool water, place them near a fan, and consult your vet.

20. Tapeworm, roundworm and pinworm

Compared to dogs and cats, rabbits are not as susceptible to worm infestations, and so regular worming treatments are not essential. Tapeworms and roundworms are fairly rare. While tapeworms don’t really present noticeable symptoms as the rabbit is simply an intermediate host, roundworms can affect the rabbit’s nervous system.

The worm that more commonly affects rabbits is pinworm, which they can contract by eating the droppings of an infected rabbit. Pinworms can then live in the rabbit’s large intestine without presenting severe symptoms, although there may be itching and inflammation at their rear end. Luckily there are effective treatments.

21. Ringworm

Ringworm is not in fact a worm but a fungal infection that is common in rabbits. Look out for patches of bald skin, which may be flakey and look inflamed. It is contagious and is often associated with poor hygiene. Ringworm can spread to humans, so get those rubber gloves and pet-friendly disinfectant out!

22. Sore hocks

The medical term for sore hocks is ulcerative pododermatitis – which essentially means broken skin and inflammation of the feet. The hock in the rabbit is the back of the hind leg, like the human heel. This area can become inflamed and sore due to trauma (from stamping or standing on wire cages) and the skin then becomes infected. Urine in the cage can exacerbate the issue, and there is a genetic disposition in some of the heavier breeds, such as the rex and Flemish giant.

23. Corneal ulceration

An ulcer on the eyeball – corneal ulceration – is the most common ocular issue in rabbits due to their large eyes and minimal blinking, which means the eye dries out quickly.

24. Conjunctivitis

Conjunctivitis is when the tissue around the eye becomes inflamed, causing redness and the eyes to leak fluid. It can be caused by bacteria or dust and is likely to get worse without treatment.

25. Otitis media and interna

Both middle and inner ear infections are caused by bacteria. This may cause the rabbit to suffer head tilt, as their balance is affected by the infection. Bunnies may become dizzy, or disorientated; you may notice swelling, itching, or irritation in the ear canal. Ear infections can usually be treated with antibiotics.

26. Splay leg

As the name implies, splay leg is when a rabbit’s legs stick out at odd angles, which affects their ability to walk. It is thought to be a genetic condition, and is usually treated with splints, bandaging or even an operation, to try to restore a normal gait.

27. Pasteurellosis

This highly contagious bacterial infection is common in pet rabbits, many of whom carry the disease without showing symptoms. It typically causes a runny nose, pneumonia, sores and sometimes blood or reproductive tract infections.

28. Pneumonia

This common rabbit illness is often the result of a Pasteurella bacterial infection, causing inflammation in the lungs. Rabbits will usually have a fever, inappetence, and lethargy, and will require antibiotics.

29. Ketosis (pregnancy toxemia)

Mercifully this disorder is rare, but it can kill pregnant rabbits within days of giving birth, particularly if they are expecting their first litter. It occurs when the doe is not getting sufficient nutrition for her needs, so the body starts mobilizing the fat stores which build up into a toxic state. It is a rapid-onset disease and is often fatal. Obesity and poor diets are contributing factors.

30. Rabbit syphilis

Also known as vent disease and treponematosis, this is a contagious venereal disease transmitted via intercourse or from the doe to her litter. Rabbits will show blisters and sores which scab over, usually in the genital area, and also the eyes and lips.

31. Mastitis

This inflammation of the mammary glands is fairly rare in pet rabbits, but affects nursing does. Also known as “blue breasts”, this is a bacterial disease causing the glands to become hot, red, and swollen, typically with a fever. Key signs are the doe refusing to eat, fever, and the breast will be hot, and swollen and may have a bloody or foul-smelling discharge.

32. Hutch burn

Hutch burn is when the genital and anal region becomes inflamed, sore, and subsequently infected. It is due to wet and dirty cages, or rabbits who constantly dribble pee. Impeccable hygiene is essential.

They may be super fluffy and adorable, but there are lots of things to consider before getting a rabbit. We often think of bunnies as being low-maintenance pets, but believe it or not, rabbits require more time and energy than you might think.

It’s easy to get caught up in thinking about the basics — investing in the best indoor rabbit hutch, the right food, and fun toys, for example, and forget about some of the more complex parts of being a bunny parent.

Rabbits are energetic creatures who require lots of physical and mental stimulation as well as plenty of human interaction. They do best when kept in pairs and because they require gentle handling and are typically not fond of being cuddled, they’re not always a good choice for homes with young children.

But while they do have particular needs you’ll want to be aware of, with the right love and care, rabbits can make wonderful companions. Here are some things to consider before welcoming a floppy-eared friend into your family…

32 things to consider before getting a rabbit

1. Rabbits live a long time

How long do rabbits live? A lot longer than you might think! While most of us understand that getting a cat or a dog is going to be a long-term commitment, we often underestimate just how long a bunny could be in our lives. Rabbits live for eight to 12 years on average, so it’s worth making sure you’re prepared for that before you adopt one.

2. They behave a lot like wild rabbits

Pet rabbits will behave exactly as they do in the wild. That means they’ll freeze or run for cover whenever they feel frightened, which is exactly what they’d do in the wild where they’re prey for other animals and are often hunted. Because of that, rabbits need a shelter they can retreat to so that they feel safe and secure.

3. Rabbits love being indoors

It used to be common for rabbits to be housed outdoors, but we’ve since discovered that our bunnies do best when housed indoors with their humans where they can become a true member of the family. How to care for a house rabbit consists of providing them with the right housing, diet, and enrichment as well as litter box training and bunny-proofing your house. But while it can take a bit of work initially, it’s well worth it.

4. They need a lot of space

How much space does a rabbit need? More than we often realize. At first glance, rabbits seem like quite small animals, and yet the amount of space they need to thrive is fairly substantial. Whether your floppy-eared friend is going to be living indoors or outdoors, they’ll need an enclosed area of at least 3m x 2m (10ft x 6.5ft) and it should be at least 1m in height (3ft).

5. Companionship is vital

Your floppy-eared friend will need some bunny to love because when it comes to the question of can rabbits live alone, the answer is that it’s not ideal. Rabbits are social creatures who do best when they have another rabbit to keep them company. In the wild, they always live in groups, so for the sake of their health and wellbeing, we recommend adopting them in pairs. The best pairing is a neutered male with a neutered female.

6. Active is their middle name

Rabbits are active and energetic little creatures who need plenty of space to hop about and play with the best rabbit toys. You can attach a run to their enclosure or use a large crate to give them safe access to exercise each day, or, if you’ve bunny-proofed the room they live in, you can give them complete freedom to roam. Whatever you decide, make sure they get at least four hours out of their enclosure each day.

7. They need lots of mental stimulation

Alongside regular physical exercise, rabbits also need a whole lot of mental stimulation each day. You’ll want to make sure you provide them with plenty of options to keep themselves entertained, such as chew toys, puzzle feeders, treat balls, and places where they can dig and forage.

8. You'll need to groom them

Yes, just like with dogs and cats, rabbit grooming is something you’ll need to do on a regular basis. While rabbits are fastidious about keeping themselves clean, brushing them each day isn’t just great for keeping their fur free of mats and tangles, it’s also a brilliant way to bond with them. Aside from brushing, be sure to trim their nails and check them for parasites.

9. There's a lot more to their diet than carrots

We know, rabbits and carrots go together like peanut butter and jelly, but there’s a whole lot more a bunny’s body needs to thrive. When it comes to what to feed a rabbit, their diet should mainly consist of grass (whether fresh or in the form of hay) as well as some herbs, leafy green vegetables, and a small amount of pellets. While it may sound boring to us, keeping your rabbit’s diet as close to what they would eat in the wild as you can will ensure they stay healthy.

10. Rabbits need to be house trained

When it comes to how to house train a rabbit, the most important thing is to invest in one of the best rabbit litter boxes and an appropriate litter. Once you’ve done that, start small with your training, confining your rabbit to just one area rather than the whole house (which can be overwhelming and increase the chance of accidents) and slowly work up to giving them more space.

11. Regular vet checks are a must

Just like cats and dogs, rabbits require regular vet checks to ensure they stay healthy. We recommend your bunny has a thorough examination once a year, although elderly rabbits or those with health issues will need to see the vet more often.

12. They don't like to be held

We know — rabbits are just so darn irresistible with their soft fur and cuddly good looks! But many rabbits don’t like to be picked up and that’s partly due to the fact that in the wild, a lot of animals see them as prey so being handled can make them freeze. Also, just like us humans, bunnies have different temperaments, so some prefer not to be held and petted or like to be petted on their own terms. However, with the right socialization when they’re young, some rabbits will absolutely enjoy being petted on the ground and others may even come in for a cuddle.

13. Rabbits love to chew

There are tons of facts about rabbits that might surprise you. For example, did you know that rabbit teeth are open-rooted and will continue to grow at a rate of 2-3mm each week for the rest of their life? It’s true! That’s why it’s so important to provide them with appropriate chewing outlets as this allows them to wear down their ever-growing chompers. Hay, dried apple sticks, bamboo, certain types of untreated wood, and willow are all safe chewing materials for your bunny.

14. Every bunny has their own personality

Rabbit personalities vary greatly from one bunny to the next, which when you think about it is exactly the same as us humans! Some rabbits will be shy and timid, others extroverted and outgoing. Some will want to sit near you, others will want to cuddle right into you and then there are the rabbits that prefer to keep to themselves. When adopting a rabbit, remember that they are unique creatures and each will have its own character.

15. Rabbits need to be socialized

While some rabbits are naturally gregarious, others are shy and may try to hide away. To avoid your bunny becoming scared of people, it’s important to get them used to interacting with humans from the moment you bring them home. Petting and handling them (being sure to support their hind legs) will ensure they settle into their new environment and become well-adjusted rabbits.

16. They can be fearful of other pets

Because they’re prey animals, rabbits are typically initially fearful of dogs and cats. However, if you introduce your bunny and other pets with care when your floppy-eared friend is young, they can go on to become good friends.

17. Rabbits aren't always ideal for children

When we think about the best first pets for children, rabbits often spring to mind — but more often than not, rabbits aren’t a great choice for children. Rabbits are fragile creatures and need very careful handling, they’re also not fond of excessive cuddling and many don’t like being picked up. If you have children and decide to get a pet rabbit, ensure their interactions are always supervised.

18. Bunnies can be expensive

For a small pet, rabbits sure can be expensive! Alongside the usual daily care, supplies, and annual check-ups, rabbits are also known for becoming unwell very quickly which means that by the time you get them to the vet, you may already be looking at a substantial bill to get them treated. Flat-faced breeds are also prone to expensive health conditions, so this is worth considering before you adopt one.

19. Gentle handling is very important

Rabbits are more delicate than you might think and they can also frighten easily, which is why when it comes to taking care of rabbits you want to handle them gently. When being picked up, it’s important to fully support their front and hind legs to avoid injuring their spine, and you never want to put a rabbit on its back. This is not a relaxing position for them and puts them into a state known as ‘tonic immobility’ which is the body’s freeze response. Being turned onto their back is highly stressful for rabbits so always keep them upright.

20. You’ll need to clean their habitat regularly

Rabbits need their enclosure thoroughly cleaned once or twice a week to keep their living space sanitary and odor-free. However, droppings and dirty litter need to be removed on a daily basis. When it comes to how to clean a rabbit cage, your once or twice-weekly deep clean should involve replenishing their bedding, sweeping their hutch, and cleaning down the entire thing with a pet-safe disinfectant.

21. They require a lot of attention

We have to confess, we had no idea until recently just how much attention rabbits require. It’s easy to think that because they’re small, they can be easily left to their own devices, but our floppy-eared friends need a minimum of four hours a day of human interaction. We recommend you let your bunny spend time with you whenever you’re home and awake — it doesn’t have to be exhausting either, they’ll be more than happy to sit next to you on the couch and watch Netflix at the end of a long, hard day!

22. Rabbits shed a lot

Have you ever found yourself asking the question ‘Why is my rabbit shedding so much?’ — while there are certainly health issues that can cause excessive shedding, rabbits naturally molt every three months and that means a whole lot of fluff on your floors. Grooming your rabbit regularly will help to limit the amount of fur you need to clean up but it’s worth speaking to your vet to get some grooming tips as bunnies have notoriously sensitive skin.

23. They can be destructive

If you’re planning on welcoming a rabbit into your family, you’ll definitely want to learn how to bunny-proof a room. As cute as they may be, rabbits are also very fond of chewing and digging, which means they have the potential to destroy your furniture, carpets, flooring, and anything else they can get their teeth and paws on. It’s also important to note that electric cables and cords look the same to our floppy-eared friends as the roots and twigs they’d nibble on in the wild, so be sure to secure these away using the appropriate tubing.

24. Rabbits are slow to trust

It tends to take rabbits quite a bit of time to form trusting bonds with their humans. It’s not because they’re not wonderfully friendly and loving pets, but remember that they are prey animals in the wild and so it’s a natural survival instinct for them to be wary of strangers. With time and patience, your bunny will slowly start to feel safe with you, which will make them want to come closer.

25. Dental problems are common

When it comes to common rabbit diseases, dental disease is right up there. This is commonly caused by an incorrect diet but some rabbits may also be born with dental issues. Chewing hay and wooden toys help rabbits to prevent their teeth from overgrowing, however, some rabbits have teeth that are out of alignment which means they aren’t able to grind down properly and the teeth continue to grow. It’s important to take your rabbit to the vet for regular tooth trimming if they have a dental problem that prevents them from being able to do this themselves.

26. Rabbits can get uterine cancer

Uterine cancer is one of the most common forms of cancer in rabbits and affects up to 80% of female rabbits over the age of three who are still capable of reproducing and once the disease takes hold, most rabbits don’t recover. The good news is that this form of cancer is completely preventable if a female rabbit is spayed, which is why we recommend doing this as soon as it’s safe to do so — most vets will carry out this procedure once a female bunny is between four and six months of age.

27. A rabbits poop will tell you a lot about their health

If you own a rabbit, you don’t need us to tell you that they poop a lot — up to 200 times a day to be exact! Rabbits stay healthy through the constant movement of their digestive system and healthy poo tends to resemble a cocoa puff. Keeping an eye on your rabbit's poop and watching for anything outside of the norm will help alert you to any potential health issues early on.

28. Bunnies are bigger than you think

We often think of rabbits as being fairly small pets and they’re certainly categorized that way, but in reality, rabbits routinely reach weights of six to eight pounds with the biggest breeds tipping the scales at 15 pounds or more. That’s bigger than many cat and dog breeds!

29. Their thump is really loud

Do you like the quiet life? If so, you might think it makes sense to get a rabbit. And on the one hand that’s true. Rabbits don’t meow like cats or bark like dogs, but believe it or not, when a rabbit is scared or angry, they’ll thump, which sounds a bit like a heavy textbook has just fallen off your bookshelf. While thumping isn’t particularly common amongst house rabbits, it does still happen from time to time and, once they get going, rabbits will tend to thump for several minutes.

30. Rabbits can get sick very quickly

Rabbits have evolved to hide their weaknesses, which means they’re very clever at covering up when they’re unwell. This can make it very difficult to know that they’re sick until they start to present with more extreme symptoms. Pay close attention to any changes in eating and grooming habits as well as fluctuating energy levels and drooling. If you notice anything concerning, be sure to get them checked over by a vet as soon as possible.

31. You can learn a lot from their body language

Ever wondered what your rabbit’s body language is trying to tell you? When rabbits are happy, they tend to do what’s known as a binky — where they run, jump, and do a half twist. Although it’s most common to see younger, energetic bunnies do this, older bunnies will do binkies when they’re happy, too. They also have their own version of the zoomies, where they’ll run around in circles. In contrast, bunnies that are worried or stressed tend to sit in a crouched position with their ears flat and their muscles tense. Understanding rabbit body language can give you valuable information about your bunny’s physical and mental wellbeing.

32. Rabbits multiply quickly

We almost fell off our chairs when we learned that a single unspayed female rabbit could give birth to as many as 30 babies in one breeding season. Rabbits can become pregnant again within hours of giving birth (yes, we know, it sounds exhausting) so be sure to get your floppy-eared friend spayed to avoid having to deal with a ton of bunny babies!

Enjoyed this? You might also want to learn about International Rabbit Day and how to keep a rabbit warm in the winter.

If you’re thinking about welcoming a new scaly-skinned addition to your home, allow us to introduce you to the best types of reptiles you can keep as a pet.

These air-breathing vertebrates include a wide range of species. From the much-loved lizards and snakes to the hard-shelled turtles and tortoises who can live for decades (and some, centuries).

Unlike cats or dogs, reptiles don’t carry dander. This means they’re typically hypoallergenic, making them ideal for allergy sufferers. Most reptiles are also cold-blooded, so they’re unable to regulate their own body temperature. Instead, they rely on external heat sources like the sun or the best reptile heating pads to do so. So when you’re introducing a new scaly member into your family, artificial heat sources will be absolutely crucial to the health, and well-being of your reptile.

Reptiles will also need the perfect-sized terrarium and toys for enrichment, along with the right handling and the correct substrate.

To find out the options for different reptiles as pets, stick right here. We’ve compiled a list of different reptiles you’ll want to welcome into your four walls.

32 options for different reptiles as pets

1. Leopard gecko

Not many reptiles can break off their tail if a predator grabs them. But the adaptable Leopard Gecko is one of them.

These clever leopard-printed lizards are nocturnal and can further evade capture by shedding their skin to remove markers predators can use to track them. Generally considered easy to care for, leopard geckos are recommended as a good pet for beginners.

2. Red-footed tortoise

Tortoise facts aren’t hard to come by. These slow-moving reptiles can’t swim (you’re probably thinking of turtles or terrapins who are water dwellers), but they can dig burrows and holes in the earth to help regulate their body temperature.

Plus, these gracious characters are one of the oldest reptiles in the world, having been around for more than 230 million years.

3. Blue-tongued skinks

Generally considered as easy to care for, feed Blue-tongued Skinks a diet high in protein, vegetables and fruit and make sure they’ve got a large enough habitat so they can thrive, and these reptiles will feel right at home.

This type of lizard loves to spend its days foraging for insects, plants and small animals. With a lifespan of 20 years or more, you’ll have a friend for decades.

4. Bearded Dragons

When provided with the right Bearded Dragon care, these reptiles can live a long and happy life, right by your side.

But just like any pet, beardies can get bored. So it’s a good idea to provide them with a range of enrichment ideas for Bearded Dragons to help keep their mind (and body) busy.

5. Corn snakes

Known for being one of the best exotic pets anyone can own and the preferred species of snake when it comes to the best first pets for children — the non-venomous Corn Snake is small, lightweight, and presents minimal risk to humans.

They’re also relatively low maintenance, needing feeding just once or twice a week depending on age.

6. Ball Python

No matter whether you’re an experienced reptile owner or just getting started, Ball Pythons (which get their name because they curl themselves into a ball when they feel threatened) are low maintenance, small in size, and easy to handle. Growing anywhere between 3-5 feet long, these slithering beauties can live for up to 40 years.

7. Crested Gecko

If you’re a novice lizard owner or are tight on space, Crested Geckos are well worth a look.

They’re a good choice for beginners thanks to their small size, docile and friendly nature, and laid-back diet of crickets, worms, and fruit. Introduce your gecko to a selection of the best toys for pet lizards and they’ll be happy.

8. Chinese Water Dragon

Gorgeously green, Chinese Water Dragons can make for a beautiful reptile pet. These happy-go-lucky four-legged friends are up there with being one of the friendliest lizards out there.

They enjoy being handled and handling them daily helps to keep them socialized. Living for anywhere between 15 to 20 years, these loveable lizards can be housed in pairs.

9. Chameleon 

Known and loved for their ability to change color, which helps them communicate with other Chameleons and regulate their own body temperature, these technicolored lizards have been around for more than 65 million years.

Chameleons will spend their days basking, exploring their enclosure, or looking for food, using their tongues and sticky saliva to catch prey.

10. Turtles

With some species living for up to 200 years, the best turtle tanks can help you create the perfect conditions for your loveable reptile – and for decades to come!

When it comes to pet turtle care, these cold-blooded swimmers need sufficient room and an environment set for their needs. From enough light and warmth to clean water and enrichment, all this should help to keep these hard-shelled creatures happy and healthy.

11. Iguanas

It’s worth noting: Iguanas can be expensive. But that’s not to say that they aren’t worth it! These reptile pals are known as the world’s fastest lizards so they need a big enough terrarium to live, eat and sleep in.

They’ll also need the right humidity levels and temperature to thrive and just know, they can take years to train. But that said, once you’ve taken care of the basics, Iguanas can bond with their pet parents for life, living for more than 20 years when properly cared for.

12. Kingsnakes

Coming in a variety of colors, Kingsnakes are bound to help brighten up your reptile collection.

Originating from Northern America and parts of Central America, they are given their name due to their habit of feeding upon other snakes. Therefore, you should only keep one Kingsnake in each enclosure.

13. African Fat-tailed Gecko

The African Fat-tailed Gecko is completely carnivorous. Whether it’s wax worms, mealworms or crickets, in the wild they’ll seek out beetles and roaches.

These geckos are known for being docile and easy to care for. Thriving in a low-humidity environment, they’ll need around 10-12 hours of light per day.

14. Argentine Black and White Tegu

Having a lifespan of between 15 to 20 years, an Argentine Black and White Tegu differs from most other reptiles on this list because it’s one of the first known warm-blooded lizards. This comes after a 2016 study by Science found that it can raise its body temperature by 10 degrees. Pretty cool, huh?

15. Tokay Gecko

One of the largest living gecko species, these bright and beautiful reptiles are known for their vibrant grey coloring with orange and blue spots.

However, they do have a reputation for having some aggression and being territorial. So they aren’t recommended for beginners. That said, once you’ve nailed their environment and gained their trust, Tokay Geckos are relatively straightforward to care for.

16. Royal Python

Known as one of the best exotic pets anyone can own, Royal Pythons live for anywhere between 20-30 years.

They aren’t the most active of snakes, but they are around 3-6 ft in length, so will need an enclosure big enough for them to slither. Being a naturally solitary species, Royal Pythons can be great starter snakes due to their mild temperament.

17. Spiny-tailed Lizard 

These lizards like it hot, thriving in temperatures over 115 degrees Fahrenheit. Highly active, as their nickname suggests, this type of Uromastyx, comes with spiny tails. Lovers of burrowing, in the wild can live in tunnels of up to 10 feet long.

Therefore, in captivity, they’ll need at least 4 to 5” of soft, sandy substrate to burrow to their heart’s content.

18. Anoles

If you’re after a small pet for compact homes, look no further than an Anoles. Pronounced ‘ah-no-lees’, these brightly colored lizards have large throat fans, or a dewlap, which allow them to communicate.

Like their fellow Chameleon counterparts, they can change hues from their naturally bright green coloring to green, brown, tan, or gray.

19. Savannah Monitor

These intelligent reptiles are considered to be medium-sized monitors, native to rocky deserts and open woodlands in west and central Africa.

Despite being legal to keep as a pet, a Savannah Monitor might not be the best option for every scaly-friend lover. We say this because they need large space requirements so they can do all the things they adore, like basking, burrowing, and climbing.

20. Frilled Dragon

Calm, docile, and unique to look at, there’s a lot to love about a Frilled Dragon. These medium-to-large reptiles come with a frill around their neck that they can puff up to scare predators away. It’s why they’re nicknamed ‘frillnecks’.

Another fun fact? These captivating exotic creatures can also run up to 30 miles per hour! So if you intend on inviting one into your home, make sure you’ve got a big enough enclosure to keep them happy and healthy.

21. Russian Tortoises

Fancy a Russian Tortoise as a pet? These highly inactive reptiles prefer to spend their days not doing very much. In fact, they have a short activity period, sometimes just three months per year.

Russian Tortoises need daily exposure to UVB lighting, a substrate that allows for digging, and a good quality diet, with fibrous vegetables, dark leafy greens, and grasses in abundance.

22. Panther Chameleons

Just look at this rainbow-colored creature! One of the most recognizable reptiles, a Panther Chameleon is a beautiful and fascinating scaly pal to keep.

These reptiles require a clean environment and specialized equipment to flourish — this includes the right lighting and temperature. Solitary and very territorial, these diurnal reptiles spend most of their time in isolation.

23. Ornate Uromastyx 

It’s official: the Ornate Uromastyx is one of the most common Uromastyx species kept as a pet in the US.

Differing from spiny-tailed lizards in a few different ways, a Male Ornate Uromastyx is usually bright green, blue or red, while females are more muted in their coloring with a lighter shade of dark brown, yellow or red spots.

24. Brazilian Rainbow Boa

Living for up to 30 years with the proper care, these intricately patterned snakes have an iridescent sheen to them, which means their skins have a rainbow-like effect in the sun.

Non-venomous, these reptiles can grow up to 6 feet in length, so an appropriately sized habitat is essential.

25. Hermann’s Tortoise

Like most other cold-blooded reptiles, Hermann’s Tortoises rely on heat from their surroundings to regulate their body temperature.

Another thing to note? These tortoises prefer to keep their four feet safely on the ground. How else would they sunbathe, forage, or spend a small portion of their days digging?

26. Red-eared slider

In the wild, you’ll often spot Red-eared Sliders basking in the sun in groups. These semi-aquatic turtles start as carnivores and become omnivorous, as they age.

So an adult reptile will eat a range of foods, from aquatic plants and insects to fish and snails.

27. Phelsuma grandis

Another green sensation, the Phelsuma grandis, otherwise known as the Giant Day Gecko, is an active and colorful species hailing from the tropical regions of Madagascar.

Often kept as pets in the US, they prosper in environments that have plenty of vertical space and they need UVB lighting along with misting to keep their home a humid one.

28. Veiled Chameleon

Whether you refer to these as cone-headed chameleons or as their more formal scientific name of Chamaeleo calyptratus, these solitary tree dwellers can change color within seconds to help communicate with other peers.

What really makes them stand out though, aside from their intricate coloring, is the casque on the top of their head. In dry habitats, this helps them channel water to their mouths.

29. Rosy Boa

One of the smallest members of the boa family, this snake can make for a great reptile pet to add to your collection.

Generally tolerating handling well and low maintenance, these cold-blooded animals won’t be able to regulate their own body temperature so will need their enclosure to do so for them.

30. Red-eyed crocodile skink 

If you’re after a one-of-a-kind pet who scores top marks for elusiveness, look no further than a Crocodile Skink. These fast runners like to hide, burrow, and be left to their own devices and they will freeze or ‘play dead’ if they’re startled.

31. Greek Tortoise

So we’ve heard about a Hermann’s Tortoise and a Russian Tortoise. But a Greek Tortoise now joins our list of the types of reptiles you can keep as a pet.

These outgoing, active, and friendly sun-loving pets measure around 5-8 inches in size, but some can reach up to 12 inches. If properly cared for, Greek Tortoises can celebrate 50 birthdays or more.

32. Gargoyle gecko

These loveable reptiles get their name because of the bumps on their head that look like horns. But despite their rather fearsome title, they are very docile pets.

Gargoyle Geckos love to climb. In fact, they’ll spend most of their nights doing just that. Along with being active during night times, they’re also pretty vocal — especially if there are other gargs around.

Interested in reading or hearing some more information about reptiles? Check out the best pet reptiles or a vet's guide to pet turtle care.

International Rabbit Day is right around the corner and we can't wait to celebrate with the furry friends in our lives. Not only is it a great excuse to spoil your bunny and share hundreds of photos of them online, but you can also raise awareness about their welfare and the organizations that help them.

Whether you treat your bunny to one of the best rabbit toys, or donate to a local animal shelter, there are lots of ways to get involved which we've listed below.

Rabbits are the third most popular pet in the Western world, according to the Journal of Animals (Basel), but experts are increasingly worried about their welfare. In fact, the study revealed that 78% of UK vets do not think that bunnies' needs are being met. That's why it's super important to learn about rabbit care before bringing one home and to educate your peers who are thinking of getting one.

Here's everything you need to know about International Rabbit Day and five ways to celebrate the occasion:

When is International Rabbit Day?

International Rabbit Day is on Saturday, 28 September 2024. It falls on the fourth Saturday of September each year.

What is International Rabbit Day?

International Rabbit Day is the annual celebration of bunnies and is a chance to promote their welfare and protection. Organizations encourage people to adopt rabbits, as opposed to buying them, and run educational workshops on how to take care of them. They might also host fundraising events, like bake sales and fun runs, to raise money for rescued rabbits.

Who started International Rabbit Day?

International Rabbit Day was started by The Rabbit Charity in 1998. Whilst this organization no longer exists, bunny lovers still celebrate the occasion every year.

How to celebrate on International Rabbit Day

1. Adopt a rescue rabbit

Did you know that 67,000 rabbits end up in shelters every year? So, if you're thinking about getting a bunny, we recommend adopting rather than shopping. Before you do so, make sure you're prepared for the responsibility - they're not as easy to look after as you might think and require lots of care.

If you're wondering, 'What do rabbits need in their cage?' we've put together a complete checklist for you to follow. Remember, rabbits can live up to five to ten years so consider where you and your family will be in this time.

2. Volunteer at a rescue shelter

If you're not ready to commit to adopting a bunny, you could volunteer at your local rescue center. You'll get the chance to spend time with them and make a positive difference to their lives. Alternatively, you might want to make a donation to support the work they do.

3. Educate and raise awareness

The best way to celebrate this special day is to educate yourself and others about their welfare. You could learn about what to feed a rabbit, how to house them, and the health care they require. Once you've finished your research, you can share it with fellow rabbit lovers.

4. Treat your rabbit to a new toy

Rabbits will spend around two to three hours playing and exercising daily, so they must have enough toys to keep them mentally and physically stimulated. As well as treating them to something new, you could try these games for rabbits.

6. Share a snap of your rabbit

If you love taking photos of your rabbit, now is your chance to share them with the world. When you post them, use the hashtags #InternationalRabbitDay, #WorldRabbitDay, or #WorldBunnyDay.

Is International Rabbit Day different to Rabbit Awareness Week?

Yes, International Rabbit Day is different from Rabbit Awareness Week.

Rabbit Awareness Week was founded by The Rabbit Awareness Action Group (RAAG) and Burgess Pet Care in 2006 and this year it was celebrated on 24 to 28 June.

You might also want to read our 32 tips for taking care of rabbits or these interesting rabbit facts.

There are several different types of bearded dragons that come in a variety of shapes and colors. The different patterns, colors, and even spikes or scales are often referred to as morphs.

When it comes to bearded dragon care, you'll want to be sure that you know everything there is to know about the type of bearded dragon you are bringing home. Depending on the type of bearded dragon you have you will need to consider things like the size of its tank or the amount of exercise they need.

So what are the types of bearded dragons? We asked vet Dr. Rebecca MacMillan to find out.

What types of bearded dragons are there?

All species hail from Australia so if you are thinking of getting a bearded dragon as a pet it is super important to make their new home as close to their natural living conditions as possible. Things like lighting, temperature, and humidity are all super important to help your bearded dragon thrive.

There are eight types of bearded dragons and the morphs of domesticated dragons have been bred from these eight types. They are...

• Central Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)
• Eastern Bearded Dragon (Pogona barbata)
• Western Bearded Dragon (Pogona minor minor)
• Nullarbor Bearded Dragon (Pogona nullarbor)
• Rankin’s Dragon or Lawson’s Dragon (Pogona henrylawsoni)
• Small-scaled Bearded Dragon (Pogona microlepidota)
• Abrolhos Dwarf Bearded Dragon (Pogona minor minima)
• Mitchell’s Bearded Dragon (Pogona minor mitchelli)

Dr. MacMillan says, "Morphs are bearded dragons bred for a desirable appearance, color, or pattern. Classic morphs resemble their ‘wild-type’ counterparts, but many other variations exist... There are thought to be over 20 bearded dragon morphs with different colors and patterns. "

What types of bearded dragons are the best pets?

Most commonly, domesticated bearded dragons are bred from the Central bearded dragon and the inland bearded dragon. "The Central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps), Western bearded dragon (Pogona minor), and Eastern bearded dragon (Pogona barbata) can all make good pets with the right care," says Dr. MacMillan. These types of dragons will have similar needs, and personality traits and will all appreciate having fun climbing and lounging equipment in their tanks.

She also notes that while other breeds of bearded dragons can be kept as pets, they have more advanced needs and are better suited to more experienced reptile owners.

When it comes to purchasing a bearded dragon we want to stress the importance of working with a reputable breeder. Dr. MacMillan adds, "Irresponsible ones (breeders) may make false claims about the lizard's breeding or morph type. Where possible try and see the parents, especially if you are hoping to purchase a Giant German morph. Avoid purchasing any bearded dragons that are advertised as ‘pygmy’. Pygmies are not a recognized morph type and a small bearded dragon could have underlying health issues that are stunting its growth. "

If you found this feature helpful, check out How long do bearded dragons live and 32 fun, interesting and bizarre facts about bearded dragons.

Guinea pigs can eat a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, plants, and herbs but there are many things that guinea pigs cannot eat. You should be very careful to avoid feeding them anything that may be toxic.

One of our top tips for taking care of guinea pigs is knowing all about their diet. Guinea pigs require a carefully balanced diet, with some fruit, vegetables, greens, and plenty of roughage like hay. These can be served in one of the best pet food containers, or given to your pet in a run or hutch for them to forage through.

Now, let's check out the 32 foods that your guinea pig should steer clear of.

32 things guinea pigs cannot eat

1. Avocado

Avocados contain persin, which is toxic to guinea pigs. The skin, flesh, and stone of the fruit all contain this compound which can cause heart failure in guinea pigs.

2. Chives

Be careful that there are no chives planted among the grass when allowing your guinea pig to forage freely in a run. Chives can cause issues with red blood cells due to their high disulfide content.

3. Nuts

Nuts are high in carbohydrates, making them unsuitable for feeding guinea pigs. Shards of nut might also get caught between their teeth, causing dental issues.

4. Chips

Chips are undeniably delicious but very unsuitable for guinea pigs. Not only are they made of potato, which guinea pigs cannot eat, but the seasoning is likely to cause problems too.

5. Chocolate

Another favorite of humans, chocolate should not be given to guinea pigs due to its high fat and sugar content. Similar to dogs, it can cause fatal complications for guinea pigs.

6. Other pet food

While it might be tempting to let your guinea pig eat other pet food, particularly if they are a companion to a rabbit, even the best rabbit food and other pet foods are unsuitable for guinea pigs.

7. Citrus fruits

Citrus fruits are highly acidic and can cause digestive issues and mouth sores in guinea pigs. Small amounts of orange may be tolerated, but not often.

8. Museli-style foods

There is a lot of debate about whether muesli-style mixes are suitable for guinea pigs, as they may cause dental and weight issues. They are high in sugar and many people prefer to feed high-quality pellets instead.

9. Poisonous plants

If a plant is poisonous to humans, it is probably poisonous to guinea pigs as well. Plants such as bluebells, buttercups, daffodils and hyacinths are all fatally toxic to guinea pigs (and people). As a rule of thumb, if it grows from a bulb, your pig shouldn't be eating it.

10. Spicy peppers

While sweet peppers are fine, spicy peppers can irritate the mouth and digestive system of guinea pigs. Capsaicin, the compound that makes chili peppers and jalapeno so spicy, is an irritant.

11. Mushrooms

Mushrooms contain little nutritional value for guinea pigs and wild mushrooms can contain toxic compounds that can be fatal.

12. Plant-based meat

Although guinea pigs are vegetarians, unfortunately, they can't eat meat substitutes. Most meat alternatives, like tofu, are made from beans and pulses, which guinea pigs can't eat either.

13. Rhubarb

Rhubarb plants contain oxalic acid, which, when it encounters calcium in the guinea pig's system, binds it into bladder stones which can be very painful.

14. Dried peas

Dried peas are very high in sugar and can cause dental issues and urinary problems for guinea pigs. They are starchy, and an excess of starchy foods can cause obesity in guinea pigs. Some pet shops sell pea flakes, which can be given in moderation, but never as a daily treat.

15. Iceburg lettuce

Iceberg lettuce has little nutritional value for guinea pigs and the high water content can cause soft, mushy stools. As guinea pigs produce caecotrophs (round pellets of semi-digested poop that they consume a second time), loose stools can cause further issues.

16. Candy

As candy is a sugar-based product it is unsuitable for guinea pigs. The high sugar content is likely to cause dental issues and digestive problems. Plus, there are usually multiple artificial preservatives, colorings and flavorings in candy that could cause other health issues.

17. Cheese

Animal products are a no-no for guinea pigs. Their digestive systems can't handle heavily processed human food in general, and high-protein foods like cheese can cause digestive upset. Guinea pig digestive systems don't have the enzymes needed to digest things like meat and dairy.

18. Garlic

Garlic is a bulb, and therefore unsuitable for your guinea pig. It is high in oxalates, which can cause urinary issues, and as a general rule, members of the allium family (onions, chives, garlic) should be avoided for this reason.

19. Tomato vines and leaves

Tomatoes are part of the nightshade family, along with peppers, eggplants and tomatoes, and the leaves and stems of these plants are toxic to guinea pigs. While they can have small pieces of tomato fruit, dispose of your tomato plants far away from your guinea pigs once their season is over.

20. Milk

As with cheese, milk is completely unsuitable for guinea pigs. Animal proteins, fats and sugars in cow milk and goat's milk are difficult for guinea pigs to digest and likely to cause stomach upset.

21. Potatoes

Potatoes are a member of the nightshade family cultivated to produce large, starchy tubers. These powerhouses are packed full of nutrients and calories for people but also contain an alkaloid called solanine that makes them toxic to some small animals.

22. Onions

Another allium, onions are unsuitable to feed guinea pigs. Growing onions tends to leave a lot of green waste, but you must not under any circumstances feed these greens to your pigs, as it will cause them health issues.

23. Leeks

Leeks are high in sulfides, as are all other members of the allium family (this is actually why these vegetables are so pungent and can give you lingering bad breath). Sulfides cause digestive upset for guinea pigs.

24. Cereal

Cereals are high in starch and guinea pig digestive systems are not built to digest heavily processed grains. Even though many grains are cultivated grasses, they are too different to be suitable for a healthy guinea pig: even raw rye, maize and wheat are undigestible.

25. Dried fruit

Dried fruit is very high in sugar and can cause dental issues and obesity in guinea pigs. Considering how sparingly fresh fruit can be given to guinea pigs (it should make up under 5% of their diet) and that dried fruit has an inflated sugar content due to the drying process, you can see why it isn't on the menu.

26. Spoiled foods

This one may seem obvious, but people often think that guinea pigs can be used as food waste bins. This is not true. Moldy food or food that is past its best can make your guinea pig ill, even if it is usually a favorite.

27. Mature corn cobs

Mature corn cobs are incredibly starchy and unsuitable for guinea pigs. Baby corn (unpollinated corn cobs) and the silks or husks can be fed intermittently, but often there are better things you could be feeding your guinea pig instead.

28. Bread

Bread is a grain product, so unsuitable for that reason, and is also heavily processed and high in carbohydrates. The yeast and salt in bread might also cause health issues and regular consumption of high-starch products like bread is a one-way ticket to guinea pig obesity.

29. Eggs

Similar to dairy, eggs contain proteins that guinea pigs aren't set up to digest. They are herbivores, and you must remember this when choosing snacks for them.

30. Dried beans

Dried beans are starchy and high in protein, making them unsuitable for guinea pigs. They can eat green beans as a treat and small amounts of bean sprouts can be slowly introduced into your pig's diet. Be aware that beans are often high in oxalic acid.

31. Meat

Guinea pigs are sworn vegans and their little gut microbiome is totally unequipped to deal with animal products. They are native to the mountains, forests and grasslands of South America and aren't really built to take down prey, so you should stick to their natural diet of veggies.

32. Dried seeds

Dried seeds can get caught in your guinea pig's teeth, causing dental issues. While the seeds found in fresh foods like tomatoes or cucumbers are ok, dried seeds are high in fat and pose a choking hazard to guinea pigs.

If you own guinea pigs you are likely already aware that they eat a wide variety of foods, from fruit and vegetables to garden plants and herbs. While some foods are poisonous to guinea pigs, there are plenty that they can chow down on without issues.

Whether you hand-feed your guinea pig or use one of the best pet food containers, making sure that they have a varied, healthy diet is important for both their health and enrichment. So, what do guinea pigs eat? We've listed 32 options below.

32 things guinea pigs can eat

1. Cucmber

Cucumbers are a good source of vitamins, minerals, and water for your guinea pig, especially in hot weather where they can help keep them hydrated. They should be fed in moderation, as their high water content can cause watery stool. A quarter-inch slice a few times a week should be sufficient.

2. Kiwi

Although an occasional treat, due to the high sugar content, your guinea pig is likely to enjoy kiwi fruit immensely. Wash and peel the kiwi before giving a small slice to your guinea pig.

3. Raspberries

All berries are safe for guinea pigs (in moderation, as always). Fruit in general should make up less than 5% of a guinea pig's diet. A small handful of raspberries is enough for a single pig.

4. Timothy Hay

Timothy hay is a popular forage for guinea pigs as it is high in fiber and helps to limit the growth of their teeth. It is low in calcium and protein, so can be helpful if your guinea pig is overweight and needs a calorie-managed diet.

5. Orchard hay

Similar to Timothy hay, guinea pigs can consume as much orchard hay as they like. It is slightly softer than Timothy hay, so can be a better choice for elderly guinea pigs. It also makes a comfortable bedding material.

6. Grass

You can either pick fresh grass for your guinea pig or put them outside in a run to forage it themselves. Fresh grass is excellent for guinea pig health, however, grass cuttings that have been left before being given to your pig are not suitable as they can ferment and cause bloating.

7. Carrots

Guinea pigs can eat carrots in moderation, a single slice a few times a week is enough. Carrots have a surprisingly high sugar content, which can cause digestive issues for your pig. They can have carrot tops more regularly, as these are much lower in sugar than the root of the vegetable.

8. Chamomile

Chamomile is a great herb for guinea pigs and if they can graze on some in an outdoor run, even better. Add fresh chamomile flowers to hay so your guinea pig has something to forage for to add some enrichment to their day.

9. Cleavers/sticky willy

Cleavers are a common plant you will find growing by roadsides, woodlands, and scrubland. This sticky weed is also known as goosegrass or sticky willy and you can identify it by the clingy hairs on its stem (it often gets caught on clothes, making a fun prank).

Be selective where you pick this plant: keep away from areas treated by herbicides, pesticides, or near animal waste, and wash thoroughly before giving it to your guinea pigs. Avoid giving them seed pods, as these are too high in protein.

10. Unseasoned popcorn

While this shouldn't be a regular treat, if it's your guinea pig's birthday a couple of pieces of unsalted and otherwise unseasoned popcorn can make a delightful snack for your pig.

11. Parsley

Parsley is a great source of calcium and vitamin C for your guinea pig. They should have parsley or other leafy greens and herbs daily, in a generous palm-sized amount.

12. Blackberry and bramble leaves

Another common plant that you can forage for your guinea pig is blackberries and the leaves of the blackberry plant, commonly known as brambles. While you could put a whole bramble in a run with your guinea pigs and let them forage the leaves and fruits themselves, be aware that wild blackberries often have large thorns that you should remove. Stripping the leaves and fruit yourself off is simpler.

13. Baby corn

As a treat, guinea pigs can have a few slices of baby corn. Mature corn can be too starchy and full of sugar for guinea pigs, but the unpollinated cobs make a nice snack.

14. Calendula

Calendula, or pot marigolds, are great herbs to give your guinea pig. They are low in calories and high in fiber, making them a healthy treat and you can feed the leaves, stems, and flowers.

15. Radish tops

Radish leaves are an excellent source of calcium for guinea pigs, but should be fed in moderation to avoid urinary issues. They can also eat radish roots, but these contain high amounts of oxalic acid, which can cause bladder stones.

16. Apple leaves and twigs

Another fun, free plant for your guinea pig to forage from is apple leaves and twigs. Cut a young twig from an apple tree and give it to your guinea pig whole to give them the enriching experience of foraging. If you're wondering "Can guinea pigs eat apples" Yes they can!

17. Eggplant

Eggplant can be given as an occasional treat, a small slice the size of a fingertip will do. Eggplant leaves and stems are toxic to guinea pigs as they are part of the nightshade family (along with tomatoes and potatoes) and must not be given to them under any circumstances.

18. Celery

Can guinea pigs eat celery? Celery can be given to your guinea pig as an occasional treat, chopped into thin, manageable slices. The leafy tops are likely to be more fun for your guinea pig to get through, so try giving them these as opposed to the root end.

19. Broccoli

Once or twice a week your guinea pig can have a small amount of broccoli. Cruciferous vegetables should be fed carefully, as they can cause bloating and digestive upset. If your guinea pig seems sulky, they might have gas and you should adjust their meals accordingly.

20. Cilantro

Cilantro, sometimes called coriander, is a healthy green for guinea pigs and a good source of vitamin C. Half a cup to a cup should be enough, depending on the breed of your guinea pig.

21. Peppers

Guinea pigs can have sweet peppers, like bell peppers or pointed peppers. They should not be fed spicy peppers or chilis, as these can cause digestive upset. Peppers are another plant from the nightshade family, so leaves and stems are off the menu.

22. Pea shoots 

Peas and pea shoots can be given to your guinea pig in moderation. The greens of the pea plant are high in vitamin C, calcium, and phosphorus.

23. Spinach

Spinach can be fed in moderation. It can be eaten once a week, as a treat, but contains oxalates, which can cause urinary issues in guinea pigs.

24.Dandelion greens

Fresh dandelion greens, flowers, and roots are all suitable for guinea pigs to eat, in moderation. The pulpy roots can be fed in similar quantities to carrots, and the flowers can be used to add enrichment to their environment.

25. Clover

Clover is another plant you can forage for your guinea pig. The leaves and flowers of red clover are high in calcium and good for growing pigs and white clover is great for pigs of any age. However, clover hay should not be fed as it is too high in protein.

26. Blueberries

Four or five fresh blueberries might win your new guinea pig's affection. Berries are full of sugar, so not good as an everyday meal, but make a good "sometimes" treat for your pet.

27. Tomatoes

Tomatoes are another plant of the nightshade family, so the plant should not be given to guinea pigs. The fruit, however, can be fed in moderation, as a treat. A whole tomato is too much, so it should be served in slices.

28. Apples

Guinea pigs love apples. These fruits are high in sugar, but an apple slice makes a pleasant treat once or twice a week. Try to vary the fruit you give your guinea pig to keep things interesting and provide them with a range of nutrients.

29. Strawberries

A single strawberry will be more than enough for a single guinea pig, and they will likely develop a "lipstick mouth" that lasts for several hours after they have finished. A quarter or half of a large strawberry will be ample.

30. Romaine lettuce

Romaine lettuce can be fed in a 1/2 cup to 1 cup portion at a time. Romaine is a variety high in vitamin C and far superior to iceberg lettuce, which has a high water content and low nutritional value.

31. Cantaloupe 

A small cube of cantaloupe will be more than enough for most guinea pigs, as it is high in sugar and should only be served as an occasional treat.

32. Pineapple

Similar to cantaloupe, pineapples are high in sugar and should be fed very rarely as a sweet treat for your pig. They also contain enzymes that can cause gas and mouth sores, so monitor your guinea pig closely the first time you feed it.

Are you currently researching housing rabbits indoors? If so, you’re not alone. A recent poll by the PDSA found that, for the first time ever, there are more pet rabbits living indoors than rabbits housed outdoors.

In this article we’ll go through some common questions potential owners have about housing rabbits indoors, and take a look at how to make sure your bunnies lead happy lives inside. We spoke with vet Dr Rebecca MacMillan for her expert take on how to keep house rabbits healthy.

Is it OK to keep rabbits indoors?

Most rabbits can live indoors, so long as they are properly cared for and provided with adequate accommodation. Here are some tips from a vet about how to care for a house rabbit.

How much space does a house rabbit need?

The answer to the very common question of "How much space does a rabbit need?" is more than you might think.

“House rabbits should have as much space as possible. As a minimum, they should have access to a 3m x 2m by 1m [10ft x 6.5ft x 3ft] high area at all times. Within or attached to this exercising area you should ensure your rabbit has a living space to retreat to,” says Dr MacMillan.

As well as an exercise area, they should have a dedicated spot for sleeping, too. “A hutch is an ideal cosy area for a rabbit to sleep in, as long as it measures a minimum of 1.8m x 0.6m x 0.6m high,” she adds. We’ve rounded up a selection of the best indoor rabbit hutches that meet these requirements.

What accommodation does an indoor rabbit need?

When it comes to housing rabbits indoors, there are three main options:

• Free range – rabbits are given the run of the house
• A room – rabbits are given access to a rabbit-proofed room
• Part of a room – an area of a room is securely cordoned off for the rabbits

The free-range option is a big commitment, as you’ll need to make sure everywhere the rabbit has access to is rabbit-proofed. If you like this option, start with a smaller area first, especially if you are getting young bunnies and still working on litter training your house rabbit.

The next two options are more common, as it’s easier to rabbit proof one room than the whole house! Popular options are utility rooms and kitchens, as these often have solid flooring which is easier to clean than carpet. Conservatories are sometimes used, but you’d have to be mindful of it not overheating in summer.

“The advantage of having a specific area of the house is that you can ensure it is completely rabbit-safe and easy to clean. Carpets can get soiled or damaged through digging, so bear this in mind when deciding where to situate your pet,” says Dr MacMillan.

Can an indoor rabbit go outside?

Yes, in fact it’s encouraged.

“I always recommend that owners take their house rabbits outside if they can. Rabbits require vitamin D for healthy teeth and bones (just as we do), so getting natural sunlight will help with this. House rabbits can be deficient in vitamin D as glass can block certain UV rays,” advises Dr MacMillan.

It’s not just their physical health that benefits from a run around outside either.

“I also believe that it is important for their mental well-being, with different sights and smells providing much-needed stimulation. Most rabbits will also enjoy the opportunity to graze on fresh grass and the soft ground tends to be better on a rabbit’s delicate feet and hocks than carpeted or hard floors,” adds Dr MacMillan.

But how do you facilitate outdoors time for an indoor rabbit? If you have a garden, a large exercise enclosure or one of the best rabbit runs would be ideal and usually preferable compared to the best rabbit harnesses.

“A harness and leash can be used on a rabbit but remember that they need to be gradually trained to accept it. Rabbits are also prey animals so can feel vulnerable to attack if walked in an area where cats and dogs might be present, so this should be avoided,” says Dr MacMillan.

How to keep an indoor rabbit happy

Indoor rabbits can lead happy and fulfilled lives, so long as they are properly cared for. This means plenty of stimulation and, where possible, access to outside.

“Indoor rabbits require plenty of mental stimulation as well as having a large enough area to run and jump in. Owners should have plenty of interactive toys, changing them regularly to avoid boredom. Provide plenty of bedding material so that your rabbit can display natural behaviours like nesting and digging. Some owners may even provide a digging box, filled with substrate or soil for their rabbits to dig around in,” advises Dr MacMillan.

We’ve put together guides on the best rabbit toys and best rabbit bedding options to help you keep your rabbit stimulated.

Can indoor rabbits live with other pets?

Rabbits should live in pairs wherever possible, as they have evolved to live in groups and without another rabbit they simply won't thrive.

However, a pair of rabbits can live with certain other species, too. There are plenty of cases of rabbits living with dogs and cats, it depends on the individual animal in question and whether or not they show predatory behaviours.

When adding new pets to your home, it's important to remember that your first duty of care should be to the animals that you already have.

Should I vaccinate my indoor rabbit?

“You should still vaccinate your house bunnies as fatal diseases can be spread from infected wild rabbits by insects, such as flies or mosquitoes. These insects can easily enter our homes, so it is best to protect your pets,” says Dr MacMillan.

Can you litter train a rabbit?

Rabbits are surprisingly easy to litter train, though no animal is perfect and you should brace for the occasional accident. To house-train a rabbit, start off with one of the best rabbit litter boxes in a small area whey they usually go to the toilet. Gradually increase the space they have access to as they become more reliable with their tray. Here are some more tips on how to litter train a rabbit.

Want to learn more about caring for rabbits? Here are our favourite interesting rabbit facts, advice on how to cut a rabbit’s nails and how to keep a rabbit cool in the summer

Treats and tidbits are a big part of owning a pet, whether it’s to train, reward, encourage, or even just indulge and boost your bond. While you might associate treating with dog moms and cat dads, bunny parents have just as much cause to teach their rabbits new skills and tricks. For example, treats form a big part of how to house train a rabbit, or could be something you scatter through some hay for rabbits to help enrich your bunny’s day-to-day.

Before you prepare a tasty snack for your rabbit, it’s important to be aware of some of the hazards that everyday foods could pose to their sensitive digestive system. A rabbit’s diet should consist mostly of fiber, and while they do require certain levels of nutrients like calcium and carbohydrates, too many of these can contribute to health issues. Rabbits have a sweet tooth and will find it hard to resist some forbidden foods if they accidentally happen upon them, so it’s very important to bunny proof the rooms in your home that your furry can access.

What’s more, certain foods – even ones that seem harmless – contain compounds that are toxic to rabbits and can cause illness, or even death, when eaten in large quantities.

It’s important to know the dos and don’ts of feeding rabbits correctly. We’re focusing on the don’ts here, so read on and you’ll be halfway there!

32 things rabbits can't eat

1. Apple pips

While your bunny can happily munch on apple skin or flesh as an occasional treat, the pips should always be removed. Though small and harmless-looking they contain harmful toxins such as a tiny amount of cyanide. While humans would have to eat close to 100 apple pips before doing themself any damage (and I’m sure no one plans to do that any time soon), rabbits are much smaller so it’s not worth the risk even with one!

2. Lettuce

Some lettuces, such as icebergs, should be off-limits to your bunny as they contain and secrete lactucarium, a milk-like fluid. Lactucarium can have a sedative and potentially harmful effect on rabbits when ingested. Romaine lettuce is a good substitute.

3. Carrots

It’s not strictly true that carrots are totally off-limits to rabbits, but they should not be fed liberally – only in small amounts. Carrots are very high in carbohydrates, which can disturb your rabbit’s sensitive gut and cause a stomach upset. Don’t despair though – leafy green carrot tops are fine to feed to your bunny.

4. Potatoes

Starchy foods like potatoes, shouldn’t be fed to rabbits as their sensitive, fiber-loving guts do poorly with too much starch. Feeding potatoes could cause soft stools that stick to your bunny’s fur and have you reaching for one of the best rabbit brushes.

Potatoes also contain a toxic naturally occurring substance called solanine. Ingestion of solanine can lead to decreased appetite, lethargy, and abdominal discomfort in bunnies.

5. Potato chips

Few among us can resist a chip, and your bunny would probably nibble on one if you offered it. However, processed foods are extremely high in carbohydrates and sugar, which are particularly harsh on your bunny’s digestive system and increase the risk of obesity.

6. Chives

Rabbits can eat fresh herbs like parsley, cilantro, and dill, but chives should be avoided entirely. Chives are part of the allium family, which contain substances such as the oxidant n-propyl disulfide that are toxic to rabbits. Consumption of chives can lead to a serious condition called hemolytic anemia, which causes the red blood cells to rupture and can lead to death.

7. Tomato leaves

Rabbits can eat the flesh of a tomato as a special treat, but be sure to keep your fluffy bun away from the rest of the tomato plant.

The seeds, stalks, and leaves of a tomato plant can be bad for rabbits when eaten in large quantities. This is because tomatine and solanine are present, which are poisonous to rabbits and can make them unwell.

8. Pits from stone fruit

Fruit stones are very hard, so might damage your bunny’s teeth, but there’s a much more pressing reason why rabbits shouldn’t eat them. Similar to apple pips, the stones from peaches, plums, and other such fruits contain cyanide and should never be given to rabbits.

9. Onions

Onions, like chives, are another member of the allium family and contain organosulfur and thiosulphate. Both these compounds are toxic to rabbits and can cause them to become very ill, so should be avoided.

10. Aloe vera

While it can offer many benefits to humans, aloe should not be fed to rabbits. The plant contains compounds such as aloin, which can prove toxic to rabbits. Ingestion of aloe vera can also cause digestive discomfort and diarrhea.

11. Cheese

Bunnies just aren’t built to digest dairy products like cheese. While they do benefit from certain levels of calcium for teeth and bone health, cheese is very calcium-rich. Overloading bunnies with calcium can lead to too much in the system, which can cause kidney stones to develop.

More important than this, though, rabbits simply don’t possess the right gut bacteria to digest dairy, so it is never appropriate to offer it.

12. Lentils

Legumes like lentils are a vegan staple in human diets, but their high starch content means they are not appropriate for your rabbit’s sensitive digestive system.

13. Bread

High in carbohydrates, the nutritional composition of bread isn’t of much value to a rabbit and could upset your bunny’s tummy.

It’s best to avoid highly processed foods such as bread due to the levels of sugar, starch, and carbohydrates. As well as potentially leading to soft stools and digestive discomfort, bread is too high in calories for rabbits and can lead to extreme weight gain. Even with one of the best rabbit harnesses, it would take a lot of walking to counter the effects of regular nibbles on bread.

14. Rhubarb

You’d be forgiven for thinking that your bunny would be safe to eat rhubarb – after all, it’s a stalky, leafy vegetable. However, all parts of a rhubarb plant are toxic to rabbits and could lead to poisoning.

The common signs of rhubarb poisoning include sores on the mouth, reduced appetite, dehydration, abdominal pain, and diarrhea.

15. Avocado

We’ve ruled out the toast but there’s more bad brunch news: your rabbit can’t even have the avocado on top of it!

All parts of an avocado – skin, pit, leaves, and flesh – contain persin, a compound that can be extremely toxic to bunnies. Even if it wasn’t dangerous to eat, avocados are a seed and much too high in calories for a rabbit’s nutritional needs.

16. Ivy

Have you spotted ivy in your backyard? While there are some garden plants that are safe for rabbits, ivy is not among their number. In fact, it is just one of the many plants that are poisonous to rabbits.

All parts of an ivy plant are toxic to rabbits but in particular the leaves and berries. Signs of poisoning can vary from lethargy to twitching and fitting. Suspected poisoning requires immediate veterinary attention, as a high level is often fatal.

17. Garlic

Another member of the allium family, garlic contains compounds toxic to rabbits. However, due to its strong smell, bunnies aren’t likely to want to try it!

18. Chocolate

While this tasty treat is the go-to for most people, rabbits can’t safely have it because of its dairy and sugar content. More importantly, though, it can lead to the build-up of theobromine in your bun’s system which can cause multiple organ diseases and even organ failure.

19. Meat

This is an obvious one, but because rabbits are herbivores they are not equipped to digest animal protein, and therefore shouldn’t eat meat.

20. Mushrooms

We all know that wild, unfamiliar fungi might be harmful to eat, but even mushrooms picked up at the store or farmer’s market can be hazardous to rabbits, who might be susceptible to the mycotoxins present in them both at the raw and cooked stage.

21. Broad and kidney beans